TALESOFLONELYTRAILS

BYZANEGREY


1922

CONTENTS

CHAPTER

I.NONNEZOSHE
II.COLORADOTRAILS
III.ROPINGLIONSINTHEGRANDCANYON
IV.TONTOBASIN
V.DEATHVALLEY

CHAPTERI

NONNEZOSHE

JohnWetherill,oneofthefamousWetherillbrothersandtraderat

1
Kayenta,Arizona,isthemanwhodiscoveredNonnezoshe,whichis
probablythemostbeautifulandwonderfulnaturalphenomenonin
theworld.Wetherillowesthecredittohiswife,who,throughher
influencewiththeIndiansfinallyafteryearssucceededingetting
thesecretofthegreatbridge.

AfterthreetripstoMarshPassandKayentawithmyoldguide,Al
DoyleofFlagstaff,IfinallysucceededingettingWetherilltotake
meintoNonnezoshe.Thiswasinthespringof1913andmyparty
was
thesecondone,notscientific,tomakethetrip.Laterthissame
yearWetherilltookintheRooseveltpartyandafterthattheKolb
brothers.Itisasafethingtosaythatthistripisoneofthemost
beautifulintheWest.Itisahardoneandnotforeverybody.There
isnoguideexceptWetherill,whoknowshowtogetthere.Andafter
DoyleandIcameoutweadmittedthatwewouldnotcaretotryto
returnoverourbacktrail.Wedoubtedifwecouldfindtheway.This
istheonlyplaceIhaveevervisitedwhichIamnotsureIcouldfind
againalone.

MytriptoNonnezoshegavemetheopportunitytoseealso
Monument
Valley,andthemysteriousandlabyrinthineCanyonSegiwithits
great
prehistoriccliffdwellings.

ThedesertbeyondKayentaspreadoutimpressively,bareredflats
andplainsofsageleadingtotheruggedvividlycoloredand
windsculpturedsandstoneheightstypicalofthePaintedDesertof
Arizona.LagunaCreek,atthatseason,becamefloodedafterevery
thunderstorm;anditwasatreacherousredmiredquicksandwhereI
convincedmyselfwewouldhavestuckforeverhaditnotbeenfor
WetherillsNavajos.

Werodeallday,forthemostpartclosedinbyridgesandbluffs,so

2
thatnoextendedviewwaspossible.Itwashot,too,andthesandblew
andthedustrose.TravelinnorthernArizonaisnevereasy,andthis
grewharderandsteeper.Therewasonelongslopeofheavysandthat
ImadesurewouldprovetoomuchforWetherillspackmules.But
they
surmounteditapparentlylessbreathlessthanIwas.Towardsunseta
stormgatheredaheadofustothenorthwithapromiseofcoolingand
sultryair.

Atlengthweturnedintoalongcanyonwithstraightruggedred
walls,andasandyfloorwithquiteaperceptibleascent.Itappeared
endless.FaraheadIcouldseetheblackstormclouds;andbyandbye
begantoheartherumbleofthunder.Darknesshadovertakenusby
the
timewehadreachedtheheadofthiscanyon;andmyfirstsightof
MonumentValleycamewithadazzlingflashoflightning.Itrevealed
avastvalley,astrangeworldofcolossalshaftsandbuttesofrock,
magnificentlysculptored,standingisolatedandaloof,dark,weird,
lonely.Whenthesheetlightningflaredacrosstheskyshowingthe
monumentssilhouettedblackagainstthatstrangehorizontheeffect
wasmarvelouslybeautiful.Iwatcheduntilthestormdiedaway.

Dawn,withthedesertsunrise,changedMonumentValley,bereftitof
itsnightgloomandweirdshadow,andshoweditinanotheraspectof
beauty.Itwashardformetorealizethatthosemonumentswerenot
theworksofman.Thegreatvalleymustoncehavebeenaplateauof
redrockfromwhichthesofterstratahaderoded,leavingthegentle
leaguelongslopesmarkedhereandtherebyupstandingpillarsand
columnsofsingularshapeandbeauty.Irodedownthesweetscented
sageslopesundertheshadowoftheloftyMittens,andaroundand
acrossthevalley,andbackagaintotheheightofland.AndwhenI
hadcompletedtherideastoryhadwovenitselfintomymind;and
thespotwhereIstoodwastobetheplacewhereLinSlonetaught
LucyBostiltoridethegreatstallionWildfire.

3
TwodaysridetookusacrosscountrytotheSegi.Withthiswonderful
canyonIwasfamiliar,thatis,asfamiliarasseveralvisitscould
makeamanwithsuchabewilderingplace.InfactIhadnamedit
DeceptionPass.TheSegihadinnumerablebranches,allmoreorless
thesamesize,andsometimesitwasdifficulttotellthemaincanyon
fromoneofitstributaries.Thewallswereruggedandcrumbling,ofa
redoryellowhue,upwardofathousandfeetinheight,andindented
bysprucesidednotches.

Therewereanumberofruinedcliffdwellings,themostaccessibleof
whichwasKeetSeel.Icouldimaginenomorepicturesquespot.A
hugewindworncavernwithavastslantedstainedwallheldupona
projectingledgeorshelfthelonglineofcliffdwellings.These
silentlittlestonehouseswiththeirvacantblackeyelikewindows
hadstrangepowertomakemeponder,andthendream.

Nextday,uponresumingourjourney,itpleasedmetotrytofindthe
trailtoBetatakin,themostnoted,andsurelythemostwonderfuland
beautifulruininalltheWest.Inmanyplacestherewasnotrailat
all,andIencountereddifficulties,butintheendwithoutmuchloss
oftimeIenteredthenarrowruggedentranceofthecanyonIhad
named
SurpriseValley.SightofthegreatdarkcavethrilledmeasIthought
itmighthavethrilledBessandVenters,whohadlivedformetheir
imaginedlivesoflonelinesshereinthiswildspot.Withthesight
ofthoseloftywallsandthescentofthedrysweetsagethererushed
overmeastrangefeelingthatRidersofthePurpleSagewastrue.
Mydreampeopleofromancehadreallylivedthereonceuponatime.
Iclimbedhighuponthehugestones,andalongthesmoothredwalls
wherePayLarkinoncehadglidedwithswiftsuresteps,andIentered
themustycliffdwellings,andcalledouttoheartheweirdand
sonorousechoes,andIwanderedthroughthethicketsanduponthe
grassyspruceshadedbenches,neverforamomentfreeofthestoryI
hadconceivedthere.Somethingofaweandsadnessabidedwithme.I
couldnotenterintothemerrypranksandinvestigationsofmyparty.

4
SurpriseValleyseemedapartofmypast,mydreams,myveryself.
Ileftit,hauntedbyitslonelinessandsilenceandbeauty,bythe
storyithadgivenme.

ThatnightwecampedatBubblingSpring,whichoncehadbeena
geyser
ofconsiderablepower.WetherilltoldastoryofanoldNavajowho
had
livedthere.Foralongtime,accordingtotheIndiantale,theold
chiefresidedtherewithoutcomplainingofthisgeyserthatwaswont
toinundatehisfields.Butoneseasontheunreliablewaterspoutmade
greatandpersistentendeavortodrownhimandhispeopleand
horses.
WhereupontheoldNavajotookhisgunandshotrepeatedlyatthe
geyser,andthunderedaloudhisangertotheGreatSpirit.Thegeyser
ebbedaway,andfromthatdayneverburstforthagain.

SomewhereunderthegreatbulgeofNavajoMountainIcalculated
thatwe
werecomingtotheedgeoftheplateau.Thewhitebobbingpack
horses
disappearedandthenourextramustangs.Itisnounusualthingfora
mantousethreemountsonthistrip.ThentwoofourIndians
disappeared.ButWetherillwaitedforusandsodidNastaBega,the
PiutewhofirsttookWetherilldownintoNonnezosheBoco.AsIcame
upI
thoughtwehadindeedreachedtheendoftheworld.

Itsdowninthere,saidWetherill,withalaugh.

NastaBegamadeaslowsweepinggesture.Thereisalways
somethingso
significantandimpressiveaboutanIndianwhenhepointsanywhere.
It
isasifhesays,There,waybeyond,overtheranges,isaplaceI

5
know,anditisfar.ThefactwasthatIlookedatthePiutesdark,
inscrutablefacebeforeIlookedoutintothevoid.

Mygazethenseemedimpelledandheldbythingsafar,avastyellow
andpurplecorrugatedworldofdistance,apparentlynowonalevel
withmyeyes.Iwasdrawnbythebeautyandgrandeurofthatscene;
andthenIwastransfixed,almostbyfear,bytherealizationthat
Idaredtoventuredownintothiswildandupflungfastness.Ikept
lookingafar,sweepingthethreequartercircleofhorizontillmy
judgmentofdistancewasconfoundedandmysenseofproportion
dwarfed
onemomentandmagnifiedthenext.

Wetherillwaspointingandexplaining,butIhadnotgraspedallhe
said.

YoucanseetwohundredmilesintoUtah,hewenton.Thatbright
roughsurface,likeawashboard,iswindwornrock.Thoselittlelines
ofcleavagearecanyons.Thereareathousandcanyonsdownthere,
and
onlyafewhavewebeenin.ThatlongpurpleraggedlineistheGrand
CanyonoftheColorado.Andthere,thatblueforkinthered,thats
wheretheSanJuancomesin.AndtheresEscalanteCanyon.

IhadtoadopttheIndiansmethodofstudyingunlimitedspacesinthe
deserttolookwithslowcontractedeyesfromneartofar.

Thepacktrainandthedrivershadbeguntozigzagdownalong
slope,
bareofrock,withscantstripsofgreen,andhereandthereacedar.
Halfamiledown,theslopemergedinwhatseemedagreenlevel.But
I
knewitwasnotlevel.Thislevelwasarollingplain,growingdarker
green,withlinesofravinesandthin,undefinedspacesthatmightbe
mirage.Milesandmilesitsweptandrolledandheaved,toloseits

6
wavesinapparentdarkerlevel.Roundredrocksstoodisolated.
Theyresembledhugegrazingcattle.ButasIgazedtheserockswere
strangelymagnified.Theygrewandgrewintomounds,castles,
domes,
crags,greatredwindcarvedbuttes.Onebyonetheydrewmygaze
tothewallofupflungrock.Iseemedtoseeathousanddomesofa
thousandshapesandcolors,andamongthemathousandblueclefts,
eachofwhichwasacanyon.

Beyondthiswideareaofcurvedlinesroseanotherwall,dwarfingthe
lower;darkred,horizonlong,magnificentinfrowningboldness,and
becauseofitslimitlessdeceivingsurfacesincomprehensibletothe
gazeofman.Awaytotheeastwardbeganawindingraggedblueline,
loopingbackuponitself,andthenwindingawayagain,growing
wider
andbluer.ThislinewasSanJuanCanyon.Ifollowedthatblueline
allitslength,ahundredmiles,downtowardthewestwhereitjoined
adarkpurpleshadowycleft.AndthiswastheGrandCanyonofthe
Colorado.Myeyesweptalongwiththatwindingmark,fartherand
farthertothewest,untilthecleft,growinglargerandcloser,
revealeditselfasawildandwindingcanyon.Stillfartherwestward
itsplitavastplateauofredpeaksandyellowmesas.Herethecanyon
wasfullofpurplesmoke.Itturned,itclosed,itgaped,itlost
itselfandshowedagaininthatchaosofamillioncliffs.Andthenit
faded,amerepurpleline,intodeceivingdistance.

Iimaginedtherewasnosceneinalltheworldtoequalthis.The
tranquillityoflesserspaceswasherenotmanifest.Thishappenedto
beaplacewheresomuchofthedesertcouldbeseenandtheeffect
wasstupendousSound,movement,lifeseemedtohavenofitness
here.
Ruinwasthereanddesolationanddecay.Themeaningoftheages
wasflungatme.Amanbecamenothing.ButwhenIgazedacrossthat
sublimeandmajesticwilderness,inwhichtheGrandCanyonwas
onlya

7
dimline,Istrangelylostmyterrorandsomethingcametomeacross
theshiningspaces.

ThenNastaBegaandWetherillbeganthedescentoftheslope,and
the
restofusfollowed.Nosignofatrailshowedwherethebaseofthe
sloperolledouttomeetthegreenplain.Therewasalevelbencha
milewide,thenaravine,andthenanascent,andafterthat,rounded
ridgeandravine,oneaftertheother,likehugeswellsofamonstrous
sea.Indianpaintbrushviedinitsscarlethuewiththedeepmagenta
ofcactus.Therewasnosage.Soapweedandmeagergrassanda
bunch
ofcactushereandtherelentthegreentothatbarren,anditwas
greenonlyatadistance.

NastaBegakeptonatasteadygait.Thesunclimbed.Thewindrose
andwhippeddustfromunderthemustangs.Thereisseldommuch
talk
onarideofthisnature.Itishardworkandeverybodyforhimself.
Besides,itisenoughjusttosee;andthatcountryisconduciveto
silence.Ilookedbackoften,andthefartheroutontheplainwerode
thehigherloomedtheplateauwehaddescended;andasIfaced
ahead
again,thelowersankthereddomedandcastledhorizontothefore.

Itwasawildplacewewereapproaching.Isawpionpatchesunder
thecircledwalls.Iceasedtofeelthedrywindinmyface.Wewere
alreadyintheleeofawall.Isawtherocksquirrelsscamperingto
theirholes.ThentheIndiansdisappearedbetweentworounded
corners
ofcliff.

Iroderoundthecornerintoawideningspacethickwithcedars.It
endedinabareslopeofsmoothrock.Herewedismountedtobegin
the

8
ascent.Itwassmoothandhard,thoughnotslippery.Therewasnot
acrack.Ididnotseeabrokenpieceofstone.NastaBegaand
Wetherillclimbedstraightupforawhileandthenwoundrounda
swell,toturnthiswayandthat,alwaysgoingup.Ibegantosee
similarmoundsofrockallaroundme,ofeveryshapethatcouldbe
calledacurve.Therewereyellowdomesfaraboveandsmallred
domes
farbelow.Ridgesranfromonehillofrocktoanother.Therewere
noabruptbreaks,butholesandpitsandcaveswereeverywhere,and
occasionallydeepdown,anamphitheatergreenwithcedarandpion.
We
foundnovestigeoftrailonthosebareslopes.

Ourguidesledtothetopofthewall,onlytodisclosetousanother
wallbeyond,witharidged,bare,andscallopeddepressionbetween.
Herefootingbegantobeprecariousforbothmanandbeast.Our
mustangswerenotshodanditwaswonderfultoseetheirslow,short,
carefulsteps.Theyknewagreatdealbetterthanwewhatthedanger
was.Ithasbeensuchexperiencesasthisthathavemademeseein
horsessomethingbesidesbeastsofburden.Intheascentofthesecond
slopeitwasnecessarytozigzagup,slowlyandcarefully,taking
advantageofeverybulgeanddepression.

Thenbeforeustwistedanddroppedandcurvedthemostdangerous
slopesIhadeverseen.Wehadreachedtheheightofthedivideand
manyofthedropsonthissidewereperpendicularandtoosteepfor
us
toseethebottom.

AtonebadplaceWetherillandNastaBega,withJoeLee,aMormon
cowboywithus,werehelpingoneofthepackhorsesnamedChub.
Onthe
steepestpartofthisslopeChubfellandbegantoslide.His
momentum
jerkedtheropefromthehandsofWetherillandtheIndian.ButJoe

9
Leeheldon.JoewasagiantandbeingaMormonhecouldnotletgo
of
anythinghehad.Hebegantoslidewiththehorse,holdingbackwith
allhismight.

Itseemedthatbothmanandbeastmustslidedowntowherethe
slope
endedinayawningprecipice.Chubwassnortingorscreamingin
terror.Ourmustangswerefrightenedandrearing.Itwasnotaplace
tohavetroublewithhorses.

Ihadamomentofhorrifiedfascination,inwhichChubturnedclear
over.Thenheslidintoalittledepressionthat,withJoesholdon
thelasso,momentarilycheckedhisdescent.QuickasthoughtJoeran
sidewiseanddowntothebulgeofrock,andyelledforhelp.Igot
tohimalittleaheadofWetherillandNastaBega;andtogetherwe
pulledChubupoutofdanger.Atfirstwethoughthehadbeen
choked
todeath.Buthecameto,andgotup,abloody,skinnedhorse,but
aliveandsafe.IhaveneverseenamoremagnificenteffortthanJoe
Lees.Thosefellowsarebuiltthatway.Wetherillhaslosthorseson
thosetreacherousslopes,andthatriskistheonlythingaboutthe
tripwhichisnotsplendid.

Wegotoverthatbadplacewithoutfurtherincident,andpresently
cametoalongswellofnakedstonethatleddowntoanarrowgreen
split.Thisonehadstraightwallsandwoundawayoutofsight.Itwas
theheadofacanyon.

NonnezosheBoco,saidtheIndian.

ThisthenwastheCanyonoftheRainbowBridge.Whenwegotdown
into
itwewereahappycrowd.Themodeoftravelherewasaselectionof
thebestlevels,thebestplacestocrossthebrook,thebestplaces

10
toclimb,anditwasaprocessofcontinualrepetition.Therewasno
trailaheadofus,butwecertainlyleftonebehind.AndasWetherill
pickedoutthecourseandthemustangsfollowedhimIhadall
freedom
toseeandfeelthebeauty,color,wildnessandchangingcharacterof
NonnezosheBoco.

Myexperiencesinthedesertdidnotcountmuchinthetripdownthis
strange,beautifullostcanyon.Allcanyonsarenotalike.Thisone
didnotwiden,thoughthewallsgrewhigher.Theybegantoleanand
bulge,andthenarrowstripofskyaboveresembledaflowingblue
river.Hugecavernshadbeenhollowedoutbywaterorwind.And
when
thebrookrancloseunderoneoftheseoverhangingplacestherunning
watermadeasingularindescribablesound.Acrackfromahoofona
stoneranglikeahollowbellandechoedfromwalltowall.Andthe
croakofafrogtheonlylivingcreatureInotedinthecanyonwasa
weirdandmelancholything.

Weresuregettindeepdown,saidJoeLee.

Howdoyouknow?Iasked.

Herearethepinkandyellowsegolilies.Onlythewhiteonesare
foundabove.

Idismountedtogathersomeoftheselilies.Theywerelargerthan
thewhiteonesofhigheraltitudes,ofamostexquisitebeautyand
fragility,andofsuchrarepinkandyellowhuesasIhadneverseen.

Theybloomonlywhereitsalwayssummer,explainedJoe.

Thatexpressedtheirnature.Theyweretheorchidsofthesummer
canyons.Theystoodupeverywherestarlikeoutofthegreen.Itwas
impossibletopreventthemustangstreadingthemunderfoot.Andas

11
thecanyondeepened,andmanylittlespringsaddedtheirtinyvolume
tothebrook,everygrassybenchwasdottedwithlilies,likeagreen
skystarspangled.Andthisincreasingluxuriancemanifesteditself
inthebanksofpurplemossandclumpsoflavenderdaisiesand
greatmoundsofyellowviolets.Thebrookwaslinedbyblossoming
buckbrush;therockycornersshowedthecrimsonandmagentaof
cactus;andtherewereledgesofgreenwithshiningmossthat
sparkled
withlittlewhiteflowers.Thehumofbeesfilledthefragrant,dreamy
air.

Butbyandbye,thisgreenandcolorfulandverdantbeauty,the
almost
levelfloorofthecanyon,thebanksofsoftearth,thethicketsand
clumpsofcottonwood,theshelvingcavernsandbulgingwallsthese
featuresweregraduallylost,andNonnezoshebegantodeepeninbare
redandwhitestonesteps.Thewallssheeredawayfromoneanother,
breakingintosectionsandledges,andrisinghigherandhigher,and
therebegantobemanifestedadarkandsolemnconcordancewiththe
naturethathadcreatedthisoldrentintheearth.

Therewasastretchofmileswheresteepstepsinhardredrock
alternatedwithlonglevelsofroundboulders.Here,onebyone,the
mustangswentlameandwehadtowalk.Andweslippedand
stumbled
alongovertheseloose,treacherousstones.Thehourspassed;thetoil
increased;theprogressdiminished;oneofthemustangsfailedand
was
left.AndallthewhilethedimensionsofNonnezosheBocomagnified
anditscharacterchanged.Itbecameathousandfootwalledcanyon,
leaning,broken,threatening,withgreatyellowslidesblocking
passage,withhugesectionssplitofffromthemainwall,with
immense
darkandgloomycaverns.Strangelyithadnointersectingcanyons.It
jealouslyguardeditssecret.Itsunusualformationsofcavernand

12
pillarandhalfarchledmetoexpectanymonstrousstoneshapeleft
byavalancheorcataclysm.

Downanddownwetoiled.Andnowthestreambedwasbareof
boulders
andthebanksofearth.Thefloodsthathadrolleddownthatcanyon
hadhereborneawayeveryloosething.Allthefloor,inplaces,was
bareredandwhitestone,polished,glistening,slippery,affording
treacherousfoothold.AndthetimecamewhenWetherillabandoned
the
streambedtotaketotherockstrewnandcactuscoveredledges
above.

Thecanyonwidenedaheadintoagreatraggedironlined
amphitheater,
andthenapparentlyturnedabruptlyatrightangles.Sunsetrimmed
the
walls.

IhadbeentiredforalongtimeandnowIbegantolimpandlag.I
wonderedwhatonearthwouldmakeWetherillandtheIndianstired.
It
waswithgreatpleasurethatIobservedthegiantJoeLeeplodding
slowlyalong.AndwhenIglancedbehindatmystragglingpartyit
was
withbothadmirationfortheirgamenessandgleefortheirdisheveled
andwearyappearance.FinallyIgotsothatallIcoulddowastodrag
myselfonwardwitheyesdownontheroughground.InthiswayI
kept
onuntilIheardWetherillcallme.Hehadstoppedwaswaitingfor
me.ThedarkandsilentIndianstoodbesidehim,lookingdownthe
canyon.

Isawpastthevastjuttingwallthathadobstructedmyview.Amile
beyond,allwasbrightwiththecolorsofsunset,andspanningthe

13
canyoninthegracefulshapeandbeautifulhuesoftherainbowwasa
magnificentnaturalbridge.

Nonnezoshe,saidWetherill,simply.

Thisrainbowbridgewastheonegreatnaturalphenomenon,theone
grandspectaclewhichIhadeverseenthatdidnotatfirstgivevague
disappointment,aconfoundingofreality,adisenchantmentof
contrast
withwhatthemindhadconceived.

Butthisthingwasglorious.Itabsolutelysilencedme.Mybodyand
brain,wearyanddullfromthetoiloftravel,receivedasingularand
revivifyingfreshness.Ihadastrange,mysticperceptionthatthis
rosyhued,tremendousarchofstonewasagoalIhadfailedtoreach
in
someformerlife,buthadnowfound.Herewasarainbowmagnified
even
beyonddreams,athingnottransparentandethereal,butsolidified,a
workofages,sweepingupmajesticallyfromtheredwalls,itsiris
hued
archagainstthebluesky.

Thenweploddedonagain.Wetherillworkedaroundtocirclethe
huge
amphitheater.Thewaywasasteepslant,roughandlooseand
dragging.
Therockswereashardandjaggedaslava,andcactushindered
progress.Soontherosyandgoldenlightshadfaded.Allthewalls
turnedpaleandsteelyandthebridgeloomeddark.

Weweretocampallnightunderthebridge.Justbeforewereachedit
NastaBegahaltedwithoneofhissingularmotions.Hewassaying
his
prayertothisgreatstonegod.Thenhebegantoclimbstraightupthe

14
steepslope.WetherilltoldmetheIndianwouldnotpassunderthe
arch.

Whenwegottothebridgeandunsaddledandunpackedthelame
mustangs
twilighthadfallen.Thehorseswereturnedloosetofareforwhat
scantgrassgrewonbenchandslope.Firewoodwasevenharderto
findthangrass.Whenoursimplemealhadbeeneatentherewas
gloom
gatheringinthecanyonandstarshadbeguntoblinkinthepalestrip
ofblueabovetheloftywalls.Theplacewasoppressiveandwewere
mostlysilent.

PresentlyImovedawayintothestrangedarkshadowcastbythe
bridge.Itwasaweirdblackbelt,whereIimaginedIwasinvisible,
butoutofwhichIcouldsee.TherewasaslabofrockuponwhichI
composedmyself,towatch,tofeel.

AstiffeningofmyneckmademeawarethatIhadbeencontinually
lookingupattheloomingarch.Ifoundthatitneverseemedthesame
anytwomoments.Nearathanditwastoovastathingforimmediate
comprehension.Iwantedtoponderonwhathadformedittoreflect
uponitsmeaningastoageandforceofnature.Yetitseemedthatall
Icoulddowastosee.Whitestarshungalongthedarkcurved
line.Therimofthearchappearedtoshine.Themoonwasupthere
somewhere.Thefarsideofthecanyonwasnowablankblackwall.
Over
itstoweringrimshowedapaleglow.Itbrightened.Theshadesinthe
canyonlightened,thenawhitediskofmoonpeepedoverthedark
line.
Thebridgeturnedtosilver.

ItwasthenthatIbecameawareofthepresenceofNastaBega.Dark,
silent,statuesque,withinscrutablefaceuplifted,withallthatwas
spiritualoftheIndiansuggestedbyasomberandtranquilknowledge

15
ofhisplacethere,herepresentedtomethatwhichasolitaryfigure
ofhumanliferepresentsinagreatpainting.Nonnezosheneededlife,
wildlife,lifeofitsmillionsofyearsandherestoodthedarkand
silentIndian.

LongafterwardIwalkedtherealone,toandfro,underthebridge.The
moonhadlongsincecrossedthestreakofstarfiredblueabove,and
thecanyonwasblackinshadow.Attimesacurrentofwind,withall
thestrangenessofthatstrangecountryinitsmoan,rushedthrough
thegreatstonearch.AtothertimestherewassilencesuchasI
imaginedmighthavedweltdeepinthecenteroftheearth.Andagain
anowlhooted,andthesoundwasnameless.Ithadamockingecho.
An
echoofnight,silence,gloom,melancholy,death,age,eternity!

TheIndianlayasleepwithhisdarkfaceupturned,andtheother
sleeperslaycalmandwhiteinthestarlight.Iseemedtoseeinthem
themeaningoflifeandthepasttheillimitabletrainoffaces
thathadshoneunderthestars.Therewassomethingnamelessinthat
canyon,andwhetherornotitwaswhattheIndianembodiedinthe
greatNonnezoshe,orthelifeofthepresent,orthedeathofthe
ages,orthenaturesomagnificentlymanifestedinthosesilent,
dreaming,waitingwallsthetruthwasthattherewasaspirit.

IdidsleepafewhoursunderNonnezoshe,andwhenIawokethetip
of
thearchwaslosingitscolddarknessandbeginningtoshine.Thesun
hadjustrisenhighenoughoversomelowbreakinthewalltoreach
thebridge.Iwatched.Slowly,inwondroustransformation,thegold
andblueandroseandpinkandpurpleblendedtheirhues,softly,
mistily,cloudily,untiloncemorethearchwasarainbow.

Irealizedthatlongbeforelifehadevolvedupontheearththis
bridgehadspreaditsgrandarchfromwalltowall,blackandmystic
atnight,transparentandrosyinthesunrise,atsunsetaflaming

16
curvelimnedagainsttheheavens.Whentheraceofmanhadpassedit
would,perhaps,standtherestill.Itwasnotformanyeyestosee.
Thetourist,theleisurelytraveler,thecomfortlovingmotoristwould
neverbeholdit.Onlybytoil,sweat,enduranceandpaincouldany
maneverlookatNonnezoshe.Itseemedwelltorealizethatthegreat
thingsoflifehadtobeearned.Nonnezoshewouldalwaysbealone,
grand,silent,beautiful,unintelligible;andassuchIbadeita
mute,reverentfarewell.

CHAPTERII

COLORADOTRAILS

Ridingandtrampingtrailswouldlosehalftheircharmifthemotive
wereonlytohuntandtofish.Itseemsfairtowarnthereaderwho
longstoembarkuponabloodygamehuntorachronicleoffishing
recordsthatthisisnotthatkindofstory.Butitwillbeonefor
thosewholovehorsesanddogs,thelongwindingdimtrails,thewild
flowersandthedarkstillwoods,thefragranceofspruceandthe
smellofcampfiresmoke.Andaswellforthosewholovetoanglein
brownlakesorrushingbrooksorchaseafterthebayinghoundsor
stalkthestagonhislonelyheights.

WeleftDenveronAugusttwentysecondovertheMoffetroadand
hada
longwonderfulridethroughthemountains.TheRockieshavea
sweep,a
limitlesssweep,majesticandgrand.Formanymileswecrossedno

17
streams,andclimbedandwoundupbarrenslopes.Onceacrossthe
divide,
however,wedescendedintoacountryofblackforestsandgreen
valleys.
Yampa,alittlehamletwithapastprosperity,layinthewidevalleyof
theBearRiver.Itwaspicturesquebutidle,andabetternameforit
wouldhavebeenSleepyHollow.Themainandonlystreetwasvery
wide
anddusty,borderedbyoldboardwalksandvacantstores.Itseemed
a
desertedstreetofadesertedvillage.Teague,theguide,livedthere.
Heassuredmeitwasnotquiteaslivelyaplaceasintheearlydays
whenitwasastagecenterforanoldandrichminingsection.We
stayed
thereattheonehotelforawholeday,mostofwhichIspentsittingon
theboardwalk.WheneverIchancedtolookdownthewidestreetit
seemedalwaysthesamedeserted.ButYampahadthecharmof
beingold
andforgotten,andforthatreasonIwouldliketolivethereawhile.

OnAugusttwentythirdwestartedintwobuckboardsforthe
foothills,
somefifteenmileswestward,whereTeaguesmenweretomeetus
with
saddleandpackhorses.TheridewasnotinterestinguntiltheFlattop
Mountainsbegantoloom,andwesawthedarkgreenslopesof
spruce,
risingtobaregraycliffsanddomes,spottedwithwhitebanksof
snow.Ifeltthefirstcoolbreathofmountainair,exhilaratingand
sweet.FromthatmomentIbegantolive.

Wehadleftatsixthirty.Teague,myguide,hadbeensorushedwith
hismanifoldtasksthatIhadscarcelyseenhim,letalonegotten
acquaintedwithhim.Andonthisridehewasfarbehindwithour
load

18
ofbaggage.Wearrivedattheedgeofthefoothillsaboutnoon.It
appearedtobethegatewayofavalley,withaspengrovesandragged
jackpinesontheslopes,andastreamrunningdown.Ourdriver
called
ittheStillwater.Thatstruckmeasstrange,forthestreamwasin
agreathurry.R.C.spiedtroutinit,andschoolsofdarkish,
mulletlikefishwhichwewereinformedweregrayling.Wewished
for
ourtacklethenandfortimetofish.

Teaguesman,ayoungfellowcalledVirgil,metushere.Hedidnot
resembletheancientVirgilintheleast,buthedidlookasifhehad
walkedrightoutofoneofmyromancesofwildriders.SoItooka
likingtohimatonce.

Butthebunchofhorseshehadcorralledtheredidnotexciteany
delightinme.Horses,ofcourse,werethemostimportantpartofour
outfit.Andthatmomentoffirstseeingthehorsesthatweretocarry
usonsuchlongrideswasananxiousandthrillingone.Ihavefelt
itmanytimes,anditnevergrowsanyweakerfromexperience.Many
a
scrubbylotofhorseshadturnedoutwelluponacquaintance,and
some
Ihadfoundhardtopartwithattheendoftrips.Uptothattime,
however,Ihadnotseenabearhuntershorses;andIwasmuch
concernedbythefactthatthesewereasorrylookingoutfit,dusty,
ragged,maneless,cutandbruisedandcrippled.Still,Ireflected,
theywerebunchedupsocloselythatIcouldnottellmuchabout
them,
andIdecidedtowaitforTeaguebeforeIchoseahorseforanyone.

InanhourTeaguetrotteduptoourrestingplace.Besidehisown
mounthehadtwowhitesaddlehorses,andninepackanimals,
heavily
laden.Teaguewasasturdyruggedmanwithbronzedfaceandkeen

19
grayblueeyes,verygenialandhumorous.StraightwayIgotthe
impressionthathelikedwork.

Letsorganize,hesaid,briskly.Haveyoupickedthehorsesyoure
gointoride?

Teagueledfromthemidstofthatdustykickingbuncharangy
powerful
horse,withfourwhitefeet,awhitefaceandanoblehead.Hehad
escapedmyeye.Ifeltthrillinglythathereatleastwasonehorse.

Therestofthehorseswerepermanentlycrippledortemporarilylame,
andIhadnochoice,excepttotaketheoneitwouldbekindestto
ride.

HeaintmuchlikeyourSilvermaneorBlackStar,saidTeague,
laughing.

Whatdoyouknowaboutthem?Iasked,verymuchpleasedatthis
from
him.

Well,Iknowallaboutthem,hereplied.Illhaveyouthebesthorse
inthiscountryinafewdays.FactisIveboughthim,anhellcome
withmycowboy,Vern....Now,wereorganized.Letsmove.

Werodethroughameadowalongaspruceslopeabovewhich
toweredthe
greatmountain.Itwasazigzagtrail,rough,boggy,andsteepin
places.TheStillwatermeanderedhere,andlittlebreaksonthewater
gaveevidenceoffeedingtrout.Wehadseveralmilesofmeadow,and
thensheeredofftotheleftupintothetimber.Itwasaspruce
forest,verystillandfragrant.Weclimbedoutuponabench,and
acrossaflat,upanotherbench,outofthetimberintothepatchesof
snow.Heresnowcouldbefeltintheair.Waterwaseverywhere.Isaw

20
afox,abadger,andanotherfurrycreature,tooillusivetoname.One
moreclimbbroughtustothetopoftheFlattopPass,abouteleven
thousandfeet.Theviewinthedirectionfromwhichwehadcomewas
splendid,andledtheeyetothedistantsweepingranges,darkand
dim
alongthehorizon.TheFlattopswereflatenough,butnotverywide
atthispass,andweweresoongoingdownagainintoagreengulf
ofspruce,withraggedpeaksliftingbeyond.HereagainIgotthe
suggestionoflimitlessspace.Ittookusanhourtoridedownto
LittleTrappersLake,asmallcleargreensheetofwater.Thelarger
lakewasfartherdown.Itwasbig,irregular,andborderedbyspruce
forests,andshadowedbytheloftygraypeaks.

TheCampwasonthefarside.Theairappearedratherwarm,and
mosquitoesbotheredus.However,theydidnotstaylong.Itwasafter
sunsetandIwastootiredtohavemanyimpressions.

Ourcookappearedtobeamelancholyman.Hehadadeepquavering
voice,alongdroopingmustacheandsadeyes.Hewassilentmostof
thetime.ThemencalledhimBill,andyelledwhentheyspoke,forhe
wassomewhatdeaf.Itdidnottakemelongtodiscoverthathewasa
goodcook.

Ourtentwaspitcheddowntheslopefromthecooktent.Weweretoo
tiredtositroundacampfireandtalk.Thestarswerewhiteand
splendid,andtheyhungovertheflatridgeslikegreatbeaconlights.
Thelakeappearedtobeinclosedonthreesidesbyamphitheatric
mountains,blackwithspruceuptothegraywallsofrock.Thenight
grewcoldandverystill.Thebellsonthehorsestinkleddistantly.
Therewasasoftmurmuroffallingwater.Alonesomecoyotebarked,
andthatthrilledme.Teaguesdogsansweredthisprowler,andsome
of
themhadvoicestomakeahunterthrill.One,thebloodhoundCain,
had
aroarlikealions.Ihadnotgottenacquaintedwiththehounds,and

21
IwasthinkingaboutthemwhenIfellasleep.

NextmorningIwasupatfivethirty.Theairwascoldandnipping
and
frostshoneongrassandsage.Aredglowofsunrisegleamedonthe
tipofthemountainandslowlygrewdownward.

Thecoolhandleofanaxefeltgood.Isoonfound,however,thatI
couldnotwielditlongforlackofbreath.Theelevationwascloseto
tenthousandfeetandtheairatthatheightwasthinandrare.After
eachseriesoflustystrokesIhadtorest.R.C.,whocouldhandle
anaxeasheusedtoswingabaseballbat,madefunofmyefforts.
WhereuponIrelinquishedthetooltohim,andchuckledathis
discomfiture.

AfterbreakfastR.C.andIgotoutourtacklesandriggedupflyrods,
andsalliedforthtothelakewiththesameeagernesswehadfeltwhen
wewereboysgoingafterchubsandsunfish.Thelakeglistenedgreen
inthesunlightanditlaylikeagematthefootofthemagnificent
blackslopes.

ThewaterwasfulloflittlefloatingparticlesthatTeaguecalled
wildrice.Ithoughtthelakehadbeguntowork,likeeasternlakes
duringdogdays.Itdidnotlookpropitiousforfishing,butTeague
reassuredus.TheoutletofthislakewastheheadofWhiteRiver.We
triedtheoutletfirst,buttroutwerenotrisingthere.Thenwe
beganwadingandcastingalongashallowbarofthelake.Teaguehad
instructedustocast,thendragthefliesslowlyacrossthesurface
ofthewater,inimitationofaswimmingflyorbug.Itriedthis,and
severaltimes,whentheleaderwasclosetomeandmyrodfarback,I
hadstrikes.WithmyrodinthatpositionIcouldnothookthetrout.
ThenIcastmyownway,lettingthefliessinkalittle.Tomy
surpriseanddismayIhadonlyafewstrikesandcouldnothookthe
fish.

22
R.C.,however,hadbetterluck,andthattooinwadingrightoverthe
groundIhadcovered.Tobeatmeatanythingalwaysgavehimthe
most
unaccountablefiendishpleasure.

Theseareeducatedtrout,hesaid.Ittakesaskillfulfishermanto
makethemrise.Nowanybodycancatchthebiggameofthesea,
which
isyourforte.ButhereyouareN.G....Watchmecast!

Iwatchedhimmakeamostatrociouscast.Butthewaterboiled,and
he
hookedtwogoodsizedtroutatonce.Quitespeechlesswithenvyand
admirationIwatchedhimplaythemandeventuallybeachthem.They
werecutthroattrout,silverysidedandmarkedwiththeredslash
alongtheirgillsthatgavethemtheirname.Ididnotcatchanywhile
wading,butfromthebankIspiedone,anddroppingaflyinfront
ofhisnose,Igothim.R.C.caughtfourmore,allaboutapoundin
weight,andthenhehadastrikethatbrokehisleader.Hedidnot
haveanotherleader,sowewalkedbacktocamp.

Wildflowerscoloredtheopenslopesleadingdownoutoftheforest.
Goldenrod,goldendaisies,andbluebellswereplentifulandvery
pretty.HereIfoundmyfirstcolumbine,thebeautifulflowerthatis
theemblemofColorado.Invividcontrasttoitsblue,Indianpaint
brushthinlydottedtheslopesandvariedincolorfromredtopink
andfromwhitetoyellow.

Myfavoriteofallwildflowersthepurpleastersweretheretoo,
ontallnoddingstems,withpalefaceshelduptothelight.The
reflectionofmountainandforestinTrappersLakewasclearand
beautiful.

Thehoundsbayedourapproachtocamp.Webothmadeagreatshow
about

23
beginningourlittlecamptasks,butwedidnotlastverylong.The
sunfeltsogoodanditwassopleasanttoloungeunderapine.Oneof
theblessingsofoutdoorlifewasthatamancouldbelikeanIndian
anddonothing.SofromrestIpassedtodreamsandfromdreamsto
sleep.

IntheafternoonR.C.andIwentoutagaintotryfortrout.Thelake
appearedtobegettingthickerwiththatfloatingmuckandwecould
notraiseafish.Thenwetriedtheoutletagain.Herethecurrent
wasswift.Ifoundaplacebetweentwowillowbankswheretrout
were
breakingonthesurface.Ittookalongcastforme,butaboutevery
tenthattemptIwouldgetaflyovertherightplaceandraiseafish.
Theyweresmall,butthatdidnotdetractfrommygratification.The
lightonthewaterwasjustrightformetoseethetroutrise,and
thatwasabeautifulsightaswellasadistinctadvantage.Ihad
caughtfourwhenashoutfromR.C.calledmequicklydownstream.I
foundhimstandinginthemiddleofaswiftchutewithhisrodbent
doubleandalonglineout.

Gotawhale!heyelled.Seehimdownthereinthatwhitewater.
Seehimflashred!...Godownthereandlandhimforme.Hurry!Hes
gotalltheline!

Iranbelowtoanopenplaceinthewillows.Herethestreamwas
shallowandveryswift.InthewhitewaterIcaughtaflashinggleam
ofred.ThenIsawtheshineoftheleader.ButIcouldnotreachit
withoutwadingin.WhenIdidthisthetroutlungedout.Helooked
crimsonandsilver.Icouldhaveputmyfistinhismouth.

Grabtheleader!Yankhimout!yelledR.C.indesperation.There!
Hesgotalltheline.

Butitdbebettertowadedown,Iyelledback.

24
Heshoutedthatthewaterwastoodeepandformetosavehisfish.
Thiswasanawfulpredicamentforme.IknewtheinstantIgrasped
theleaderthatthebigtroutwouldbreakitorpullfree.Thesame
situation,withdifferentkindsoffish,hadpresenteditselfmany
timesonmynumberlessfishingjauntswithR.C.andtheyallcrowded
tomymind.NeverthelessIhadnochoice.PlungingintomykneesI
franticallyreachedfortheleader.Theredtroutmadeasurge.I
missedhim.R.C.yelledthatsomethingwouldbreak.Thatwasno
news
tome.Anotherplungebroughtmeintouchwiththeleader.ThenI
essayedtoleadthehugecutthroatashore.Hewasheavy.Buthewas
tiredandthatgavebirthtohopes.NeartheshoreasIwasaboutto
lifthimhewokeup,swamroundmetwice,thenranbetweenmylegs.

When,alittlelater,R.C.camepantingdownstreamIwassittingon
thebank,allwet,withonekneeskinnedandIwasholdinghisbroken
leaderinmyhands.Strangetosay,hewentintoarage!Blamedme
for
thelossofthatbigtrout!Undersuchcircumstancesitwasalways
besttomaintainsilenceandIdidsoaslongasIcould.Afterhis
paroxysmhadspentitselfandhehadbecomesomewhatneara
rational
beingoncemoreheaskedme:

Washebig?

Ohawhaleofatrout!Ireplied.

Humph!Well,howbig?

ThereuponIenlargedupontheexceedingsizeandbeautyofthat
trout.
ImadehimoutverymuchbiggerthanheactuallylookedtomeandI
minutelydescribedhisbeautyandwonderfulgapingmouth.R.C.
groaned

25
andthatwasmyrevenge.

Wereturnedtocampearly,andItookoccasiontoscrapeacquaintance
withthedogs.ItwasastrangelyassortedpackfourAiredales,one
bloodhoundandsevenotherhoundsofmixedbreeds.Therewere
also
threepuphounds,whiteandyellow,veryprettydogs,andlikeall
pups,noisyandmischievous.Theymadefriendseasily.Thisapplied
alsotooneoftheAiredales,adogrecentlypresentedtoTeagueby
someestimableoldladywhohadcalledhimKaiserandmadeapetof
him.Asmighthavebeenexpectedofadog,evenanAiredale,with
that
name,hewasnogood.Buthewasveryaffectionate,andexceedingly
funny.Whenhewasapproachedhehadatrickofstandingup,
holding
uphisforepawsinanappealingsortofway,withhisheadtwistedin
themostabsurdmanner.Thiswaswhenhewaschainedotherwise
he
wouldhavebeenclimbinguponanyonewhogavehimthechance.
Hewas
themostjealousdogIeversaw.Hecouldnotbekeptchainedvery
longbecausehealwaysfreedhimself.Atmealtimehewouldslip
noiselesslybehindsomeoneandstealthefirstmorselhecould
snatch.BillwasalwaysrappingKaiserwithpansorbilletsof
firewood.

Nextmorningwasclearandcold.Wehadbreakfast,andthensaddled
up
toridetoBigFishLake.Foranhourwerodeupanddownridgesof
heavyspruce,alongatrail.Wesawelkanddeersign.Elktracks
appearedalmostaslargeascowtracks.Whenweleftthetrailto
climbintoheavytimberwebegantolookforgame.Theforestwas
dark,greenandbrown,silentasagrave.Nosquirrelsorbirdsor
signoflife!Wehadahardrideupanddownsteepslopes.Afeature
wastheopenswathsmadebyavalanches.Theiceandsnowhadcuta

26
paththroughthetimber,andtheyoungshootsofsprucewere
springing
up.Iimaginedtheroarmadebythattremendousslide.

Wefoundelktrackseverywhereandsomefreshsign,wherethegrass
hadbeenturnedrecently,andalsomucholdandfreshsignwherethe
elkhadskinnedthesaplingsbyrubbingtheirantlerstogetridof
thevelvet.Someoftheserubslookedlikeblazesmadebyanaxe.The
AiredaleFox,awonderfuldog,routedoutashecoyotethatevidently
hadadensomewhere,forshebarkedangrilyatthedogandatus.Fox
couldnotcatchher.Sheledhimroundinacircle,andwecouldnot
seeherinthethickbrush.Itwasfinetohearthewildstaccatonote
again.

Wecrossedmanylittleparks,brightandgreen,bloomingwithwild
astersandIndianpaintbrushandgoldendaisies.Thepatchesofred
andpurplewereexceedinglybeautiful.Everywherewerodewewere
knee
deepinflowers.Atlengthwecameoutoftheheavytimberdown
upon
BigFishLake.Thislakewasabouthalfamileacross,deepbluegreen
incolor,withrockyshores.Upontheoppositesidewerebeaver
mounds.Wecouldseebigtroutswimminground,buttheywouldnot
rise
toafly.R.C.wentoutinanoldboatandpaddledtotheheadofthe
lakeandfishedattheinlet.Herehecaughtafinetrout.Iwent
aroundandupthelittleriverthatfedthelake.Itcurvedswiftly
throughameadow,andhaddeep,darkeddiesundermossy,
flowering
banks.Atotherplacesthestreamranswiftlyovercleangravelbeds.
Itwasmusicalandclearascrystal,andtothetouchofhand,ascold
asicewater.Iwadedinandbegantocast.Isawseveralbigtrout,
andatlastcoaxedonetotakemyfly.ButImissedhim.Thenina
swiftcurrentaflashofredcaughtmyeyeandIsawabigtrout
lazilyrisetomyfly.Sawhimtakeit!AndIhookedhim.Hewasnot

27
active,butheavyandplunging,andheboredinandout,andmade
shortruns.Ihadnotseensuchbeautifulredcolorsinanyfish.He
madeafinefight,butatlastIlandedhimonthegrass,acutthroat
ofaboutoneandthreequarterpounds,deepredandsilverandgreen,
andspottedallover.Thatwastheextentofmyluck.

Wewentbacktothepoint,andthoughtwewouldwaitalittlewhile
to
seeifthetroutwouldbegintorise.Buttheydidnot.Astormbegan
tomutterandboomalongthebattlements.Greatgrayclouds
obscured
thepeaks,andatlengththeraincame.Itwascoldandcutting.We
soughttheshelterofsprucesforawhile,andwaited.Afteranhour
itclearedsomewhat,andR.C.caughtafineonepoundcutthroat,all
greenandsilver,withonlytwoslashesofredalongunderthegills.
Thenanotherstormthreatened.Beforewegotreadytoleaveforcamp
therainbeganagaintofall,andwelookedforawetting.Itwas
raininghardwhenwerodeintothewoodsandverycold.Thespruces
weredripping.Butwesoongotwarmfromhardridingupsteep
slopes.
Afteranhourtherainceased,thesuncameout,andfromtheopen
placeshighupwecouldseeagreatgreenvoidofspruce,andbeyond,
boundlessblackranges,runningofftodimhorizon.Weflushedabig
bluegrousewithabroodoflittleones,andatlengthanotherbig
one.

InoneoftheopenparkstheAiredaleFoxshowedsignsofscenting
game.Therewasapatchofgroundwherethegrasswaspressed
down.
Teaguewhisperedandpointed.Isawthegrayrumpofanelk
protruding
frombehindsomespruces.IbeckonedforR.C.andweboth
dismounted.
Justthentheelkroseandstalkedout.Itwasamagnificentbullwith
crowningloftyantlers.Theshouldersandneckappearedblack.He

28
raisedhishead,andturning,trottedawaywitheaseandgracefor
suchahugebeast.ThatwasawildandbeautifulsightIhadnotseen
before.Wewereentranced,andwhenhedisappeared,weburstout
with
exclamations.

Werodeontowardcamp,andoutuponabenchthatborderedthe
lofty
redwallofrock.Fromtherewewentdownintoheavyforestagain,
dim
andgray,withitsdank,penetratingodor,andoppressivestillness.
Theforestprimeval!Whenwerodeoutofthatintoopenslopesthe
afternoonwasfaradvanced,andlongshadowslayacrossthedistant
ranges.Whenwereachedcamp,supperandafiretowarmcoldwet
feet
wereexceedinglywelcome.Iwastired.

Later,R.C.andIrodeupamileorsoabovecamp,andhitchedour
horsesnearTeaguesoldcorral.Ourintentionwastohuntupalong
thesideoftheslope.Teaguecamealongpresently.Wewaited,hoping
thebigblackcloudswouldbreak.Buttheydidnot.Theyrolleddown
withgray,swirlingedges,likesmoke,andastormenvelopedus.We
soughtshelterinathickspruce.Itrainedandhailed.Byandbye
theairgrewbitterlycold,andTeaguesuggestedwegiveup,andride
back.Sowedid.Themountainsweredimandobscurethroughthe
gray
gloom,andtheblackspeartippedspruceslookedghostlyagainst
thebackground.Thelightningwasvivid,andthethunderrolledand
crashedinmagnificentbombardmentacrosstheheavens.

Nextmorningatsixthirtythesunwasshiningclear,andonlya
fewcloudssailedintheblue.Windwasinthewestandtheweather
promisedfair.Butcloudsbegantocreepupbehindthemountains,
firsthazy,thenwhite,thendark.Neverthelesswedecidedtoride
out,andcrosstheFlattoprim,andgoaroundwhattheycallthe

29
ChineseWall.Itrainedasweclimbedthroughthesprucesabove
Little
TrappersLake.Andaswegotnearthetopitbegantohail.Again
theairgrewcold.OnceoutontopIfoundawideexpanse,greenand
white,levelinplaces,butwithhugeupheavalsofridge.There
wereflowershereateleventhousandfeet.Theviewtotherearwas
impressiveawideupanddownplainstuddedwithoutcroppingof
rocks,andpatchesofsnow.WewerethenontopoftheChineseWall,
andtheviewtothewestwasgrand.Atthemomenthailwasfalling
thickandwhite,andtostandabovethestreakedcurtain,asitfell
intotheabysswasastrangenewexperience.Below,twothousand
feet,
laythespruceforest,anditslopedanddroppedintotheWhiteRiver
Valley,whichinturnrose,alongraggeddarkgreenslope,uptoa
barejaggedpeak.Beyondthisstretchedrangeonrange,darkunder
the
loweringpallofclouds.OntopwefoundfreshRockyMountain
sheep
tracks.Alittlelater,goingintoadraw,wecrossedasnowbank,
solidasice.Weworkeddownintothisdrawintothetimber.It
hailed,andrainedsomemore,thencleared.Thewarmsunfeltgood.
Oncedownintheparkswebegantoridethroughaflowergarden.
Every
slopewasbeautifulingold,andred,andblueandwhite.Theseparks
wereluxuriantwithgrass,andeverywherewefoundelkbeds,where
the
greatstagshadbeenlying,tofleeatourapproach.Butwedidnot
seeone.Thebignessofthisslopeimpressedme.Werodemilesand
miles,andeveryparkwassurroundedbyheavytimber.Atlengthwe
gotintoaburneddistrictwherethetalldeadsprucesstoodsearand
ghastly,andthegroundwassothicklystrewnwithfallentreesthat
wehaddifficultyinthreadingawaythroughthem.Patchesofaspen
grewonthehillside,stillfreshandgreendespitethisfrosty
morning.Herewefoundasegolily,oneofthemostbeautifulof
flowers.HerealsoIsawpinkIndianpaintbrush.Atthefootofthis

30
longburnedslopewecametotheWhiteRivertrail,andfollowedit
up
andaroundtocamp.

Lateintheevening,aboutsunset,Itookmyrifleandslippedoff
intothewoodsbackofcamp.Iwalkedashortdistance,thenpaused
to
listentothesilenceoftheforest.Therewasnotasound.Itwasa
placeofpeace.ByandbyeIheardsnappingoftwigs,andpresently
heardR.C.andTeagueapproachingme.Wepenetratedhalfamile
into
thespruce,pausingnowandthentolisten.AtlengthR.C.heard
something.Westopped.AfteralittleIheardtheringofahornon
wood.Itwasthrilling.Thencamethecrackofahoofonstone,then
theclatterofaloosenedrock.Wecrepton.Butthatelkordeer
evadedus.Wehuntedaroundtilldarkwithoutfarthersignofany
game.

R.C.andTeagueandIrodeoutatseventhirtyandwentdownWhite
Riverforthreemiles.Inonepatchofbaregroundwesawtracksof
fivedeerwheretheyhadcomeinforsalt.Thenweclimbedhighupa
burnedridge,windingthroughpatchesofaspen.Weclimbedridge
after
ridge,andatlastgotoutoftheburneddistrictintoreachesof
heavyspruce.Comingtoaparkfullofdeerandelktracks,we
dismountedandleftourhorses.Iwenttotheleft,andintosome
beautifulwoods,whereIsawbedsofdeerorelk,andmanytracks.
Returningtothehorses,Iledthemintoalargerpark,andclimbed
highintotheopenandwatched.ThereIsawsomelittlesquirrels
aboutthreeincheslong,andsomegraybirds,verytame.Iwaiteda
longtimebeforetherewasanysignofR.C.orTeague,andthenitwas
thedogIsawfirst.Iwhistled,andtheyclimbeduptome.We
mounted
androdeonforanhour,thenclimbedthroughamagnificentforestof
hugetrees,windfalls,andaferny,mossy,softground.Atlengthwe

31
cameoutattheheadofasteep,bareslope,runningdowntoaverdant
parkcrossedbystretchesoftimber.Onthewaybacktocampweran
acrossmanyelkbedsanddeertrails,andforawhileasmallbandof
elkevidentlytrottedaheadofus,butoutofsight.

NextdaywestartedforafewdaystriptoBigFishLake.R.C.andI
wentalonguparoundthemountain.Ifoundouroldtrail,andwasat
a
lossonlyafewtimes.Wesawfreshelksign,butnolivegameatall.

Intheafternoonwefished.Iwentuptheriverhalfamile,while
R.C.fishedthelake.Neitherofushadanyluck.Laterwecaughtfour
trout,oneofwhichwasfairsized.

Towardsunsetthetroutbegantorisealloverthelake,butwecould
notgetthemtotakeafly.

ThefollowingdaywewentuptoTwinLakesandfoundthemtobe
beautifullittlegreengemssurroundedbyspruce.Isawsomebigtrout
inthelargelake,buttheywerewary.Wetriedeverywaytogeta
strike.Nouse!Inthelittlelakematterswereworse.Itwasfullof
troutuptotwopounds.Theywouldrunatthefly,onlytorefuseit.
Exasperatingwork!WegaveupandreturnedtoBigFish.After
supper
wewentouttotryagain.Thelakewassmoothandquiet.Allatonce,
asifbyconcert,thetroutbegantoriseeverywhere.Inalittlebay
webegantogetstrikes.Icouldseethefishrisetothefly.The
smallonesweretooswiftandthelargeonestooslow,itseemed.
Wecaughtone,andthenhadbadluck.Wesnarledourlines,drifted
wrong,brokeleaders,snappedoffflies,hookedtooquickandtoo
slow,anddideverythingthatwasclumsy.Ilosttwobigfishbecause
theyfollowedtheflyasIdrewittowardmeacrossthewaterto
imitateaswimmingfly.OfcoursethismadealargeslacklinewhichI
couldnotgetup.FinallyIcaughtonebigfish,andaltogetherwegot
seven.Allinthatlittlebay,wherethewaterwasshallow!Inother

32
placeswecouldnotcatchafish.Ihadoneviciousstrike.Thefish
appearedtobefeedingonatinyblackgnat,whichwecouldnot
imitate.Thiswasthemosttryingexperienceofall.Weoughttohave
caughtabasketful.

Thenextday,Septemberfirst,werodedownalongtheoutletofBig
FishtoWhiteRiveranddownthatformilestofishforgrayling.The
streamwaslargeandswiftandcold.Itappearedfulloficewater
androcks,butnofish.Wemetfishermen,anautomobile,andacamp
outfit.Thatwasenoughforme.Whereanautomobilecanrun,Ido
not
belong.Thefishingwaspoor.Butthebeautifulopenvalley,flowered
ingoldandpurple,wasrecompenseforagooddealofbadluck.

Agrayling,orwhattheycalledagrayling,wasnotasbeautifula
fishasmyfancyhadpictured.Heresembledasuckerormullet,hada
smallmouth,darkcolor,andwasratherasluggishlookingfish.

Werodebackthroughathunderstorm,andouryellowslickers
afforded
muchcomfort.

Nextmorningwasbright,clear,cold.Isawthemoongodownovera
mountainrimroseflushedwiththesunrise.

R.C.andI,withTeague,startedforthetopofthebigmountainon
thewest.Ihadanewhorse,aroan,andhelookedathoroughbred.
Heappearedtired.ButIthoughthewouldbegreat.Wetookatrail
throughthewoods,darkgreengray,coolandverdant,odorousand
still.Webegantoclimb.Occasionallywecrossedparks,andlittle
streams.Upnearthelong,bareslopethesprucetreesgrewlargeand
farapart.Theywerebeautiful,grayasifbeardedwithmoss.Beyond
thiswegotintotherocksandclimbingbecamearduous.Longzigzags
uptheslopebroughtustothetopofanotch,whereattherightlay
apatchofsnow.Thetopofthemountainwascomparativelyflat,but

33
ithadtimberedridgesandbareplainsandlittlelakes,withdark
domes,risingbeyond.Werodearoundtotheright,climbingoutof
the
timbertowherethedwarfsprucesandbrushhadahardstrugglefor
life.Thegreatgulfbelowuswasimmense,dark,andwild,studded
withlakesandparks,andshadowedbymovingclouds.

Sheeptracks,oldandfresh,affordedusthrills.

Awayonthewesternrim,wherewecouldlookdownuponalong
rugged
irongrayridgeofmountain,ourguideusingtheglass,foundtwobig
stags.Weallhadourfilloflooking.Icouldseethemplainlywith
nakedeyes.

Wedecidedtogobacktowherewecouldclimbdownonthatside,
halterthehorses,leaveallextraaccoutrements,andstalkthose
stags,andtakeapictureofthem.

Iledtheway,anddescendedundertherim.Itwasupanddownover
roughshale,andupstepsofbrokenrocks,anddownlittlecliffs.
Wecrossedtheridgetwice,manytimeshavingtolendahandtoeach
other.

AtlengthIreachedapointwhereIcouldseethestagslyingdown.
Theplacewasanopenspotonarockypromonotorywithafringeof
lowspruces.Thestagsweremagnificentinsize,withantlersinthe
velvet.Onehadtwelvepoints.Theywerelyinginthesuntoharden
theirhorns,accordingtoourguide.

Islippedbacktotheothers,andwealldecidedtohavealook.Sowe
climbedup.Allofussawthestags,twitchingearsandtails.

Thenwecreptback,andoncemoreItooktheleadtocrawlround
under

34
theledgesowecouldcomeupaboutevenwiththem.HereIfound
the
hardestgoingyet.Icametoawindworncrackinthethinledge,and
fromthisIcouldjustseethetipsoftheantlers.Ibeckonedthe
others.Laboriouslytheyclimbed.R.C.wentthroughfirst.Iwentover
next,andthencameTeague.

R.C.andIstartedtocrawldowntoabigrockthatwasourobjective
point.Wewentcautiously,withbatedbreathandpoundinghearts.
When
wegotthereIpeepedovertoseethestagsstilllyingdown.Butthey
hadheadsintentandwary.StillIdidnotthinktheyhadscentedus.
R.C.tookapeep,andturningexcitedlyhewhispered:

Seeonlyone.Andhesstanding!

AndIanswered:Letsgetdownaroundtotheleftwherewecangeta
betterchance.Itwasonlyafewfeetdown.Wegotthere.

Whenhepeepedoveratthispointheexclaimed:Theyregone!

Itwasakeendisappointment.Theywindedus,Idecided.

Welookedandlooked.Butwecouldnotseetoourleftbecauseofthe
bulgeofrock.Weclimbedback.ThenIsawoneofthestagsloping
leisurelyofftotheleft.Teaguewascalling.Hesaidtheyhadwalked
offthepromontory,lookingup,andstoppingoccasionally.

Thenwerealizedwemustclimbbackalongthatbrokenridgeand
then
uptothesummitofthemountain.Sowestarted.

Thatclimbbackwasproofoftheeffectofexcitementonjudgment.We
hadnotcalculatedatallonthedistanceorruggedness,andwehada
jobbeforeus.Wegotalongwellunderthewesternwall,andfairly

35
wellstraightacrossthroughthelongslopeoftimber,wherewesaw
sheeptracks,andexpectedanymomenttosightanoldram.Butwe
did
notfindone,andwhenwegotoutofthetimberuponthebaresliding
slopewehadtohaltahundredtimes.Wecouldzigzagonlyafew
steps.Thealtitudewastwelvethousandfeet,andoxygenseemed
scarce.Inearlydropped.Alltheclimbingappearedtocomehardest
on
themiddleofmyrightfoot,anditcouldscarcelyhaveburnedhotter
ifithadbeeninfire.Despitethestrenuoustoiltherewerenotmany
momentsthatIwasnotawareofthevastnessofthegulfbelow,orthe
peacefullakes,brownasamber,orthegoldenparks.Andnearerat
handIfoundmagentacoloredIndianpaintbrush,veryexquisiteand
rare.

ComingoutonaledgeIspiedalittle,darkanimalwithalongtail.
Hewasrunningalongtheoppositepromontoryaboutthreehundred
yards
distant.WhenhestoppedItookashotathimandmissedby
apparently
ascanthalffoot.

Aftercatchingourbreathweclimbedmoreandmore,andstillmore,
at
lasttodropontherim,hot,wetandutterlyspent.

Theairwaskeen,cold,andinvigorating.Weweresoonrested,and
findingourhorsesweproceededalongtherimwestward.Upon
rounding
anoutcroppingofrockweflushedaflockofptarmigansoftgray,
rockcoloredbirdsaboutthesizeofpheasants,andwhentheyflew
theyshowedbeautifulwhitebandsontheirwings.Thesearetherare
birdsthathavefeatheredfeetandturnwhiteinwinter.Theydidnot
flyfar,andseveralweresotametheydidnotflyatall.Wegotour
little.22revolversandbegantoshootatthenearestbird.Hewas

36
somethirtyfeetdistant.Butwecouldnothithim,andatlastFox,
gettingdisgusted,triedtocatchthebirdandmadehimfly.Ifelt
relieved,forasweweregettingcloserandcloserwitheveryshot,it
seemedpossiblethatiftheptarmigansattherelongenoughwemight
eventuallyhavehithim.Themysterywaswhyweshotsopoorly.But
thiswasexplainedbyR.C.,whodiscoveredwehadbeenshootingthe
wrongshells.

Itwasalonghardridedowntheroughwindingtrail.Butriding
down
wasavastlydifferentthingfromgoingup.

OnSeptemberthirdwewereupatfivethirty.Itwasclearandcold
andtheredofsunrisetingedthepeaks.Thesnowbankslookedpink.
Alltheearlymorningscenewasgreen,fresh,cool,withthatmountain
rarenessofatmosphere.

Wepackedtobreakcamp,andafterbreakfastittookhourstogetour
outfitinshapetostartalongstring,resemblingacaravan.Iknew
thateventswouldoccurthatday.Firstwelostoneofthedogs.Vern
wentbackafterhim.Thedogsweremostlychainedinpairs,to
prevent
theirrunningoff.Samson,thegianthound,waschainedtoalittle
dog,andtheotherswerepairednotaccordingtosizebyanymeans.
Thepoordogsweredisgustedwiththearrangement.Itdeveloped
presentlythatCain,thebloodhound,astrangeandwildhoundmuch
likeDonofmyoldlionhuntingdays,slippedus,andwasnotmissed
forhours.Teaguedecidedtosendbackforhimlater.

Nextinorderofevents,aswerodeupthewindingtrailthroughthe
spruceforest,wemetTeaguescowandcalf,whichhehadkeptall
summerincamp.Forsomereasonneithercouldbeleft.Teaguetold
us
torideon,andanhourlaterwhenwehaltedtorestontheFlattop
Mountainhecamealongwiththerestofthetrain,andintheforewas

37
thecowalone.Itwasevidentthatshewasdistressedandangry,for
ittooktwomentokeepherinthetrail.Andanotherthingplainto
mewasthefactthatshewasgoingtodemoralizethepackhorses.We
werenotacrossthewiderangeofthisflatmountainwhenoneofthe
packanimals,aleanandlankysorrel,appearedsuddenlytogomad,
andbegantobuckoffapack.Hesucceeded.Thisinspiredablack
horse,veryappropriatelychristenedNigger,totryhisluck,andhe
shiftedhispackinshortorder.Ittookpatience,time,andeffortto
repack.Thecowwasadisorganizer.Shetookupaswideatrailasa
road.Andthepackanimals,somewithdignityandotherswith
disgust,
triedtoavoidhervicinity.Goingdownthesteepforesttrailon
theothersidetherealtroublebegan.Thepacktrainsplit,ranand
bolted,crashingthroughthetrees,plungingdownsteepplaces,and
jumpinglogs.Itwasawildsortofchase.Butluckilythepacks
remainedintactuntilwewereoncemoreonopen,flatground.All
went
wellforawhile,exceptforanaccidentforwhichIwastoblame.I
spurredmyhorse,andheplungedsuddenlypastR.C.smount,
colliding
withhim,tearingoffmystirrup,andsprainingR.C.sankle.This
wasalmostaseriousaccident,asR.C.hasanoldbaseballanklethat
requiredfavoring.

Nextinorderwasthesorrel.AsIsawit,heheedlesslywenttoonear
thecow,whichwenowcalledBossy,andsheactedsomewhatlikea
SpanishBull,totheeffectthatthesorrelwasscaredandangeredat
once.Hebegantorunandplungeandbuckrightintotheotherpack
animals,droppingarticlesfromhispackashedashedalong.He
stampededthetrain,andgavethesaddlehorsesascare.Whenorder
wasrestoredandthewholeoutfitgatheredtogetheragainafull
hourhadbeenlost.Bythistimeallthehorsesweretired,andthat
facilitatedprogress,becausetherewerenomoreseriousbreaks.

Downinthevalleyitwashot,andtheridegrewlongandwearisome.

38
Nevertheless,thescenerywasbeautiful.Thevalleywasgreenand
level,andameanderingstreamformedmanylittlelakes.Onone
sidewasasteephillofsageandaspens,andontheotherablack,
spearpointedspruceforest,risingsheertoabold,bluntpeak
patchedwithsnowbanks,andbronzeandgrayintheclearlight.
Huge
whitecloudssailedaloft,makingdarkmovingshadowsalongthe
great
slopes.

Wereachedourturningoffplaceaboutfiveoclock,andagainentered
thefragrant,quietforestawelcomechange.Weclimbedand
climbed,
atlengthcomingintoanopenparkofslopesandgreenbordersof
forest,withalakeinthecenter.Wepitchedcampontheskirtofthe
westernslope,underthespruces,andworkedhardtogetthetentsup
andboughscutforbeds.Darknesscaughtuswithourhandsstillfull,
andweatesupperinthelightofacampfire,withtheblack,deep
forestbehind,andthepaleafterglowacrossthelake.

Ihadabadnight,beingtootiredtosleepwell.ManytimesIsawthe
moonshadowsofsprucebranchestremblingonthetentwalls,and
the
flickeringshadowsofthedyingcampfire.Iheardthemelodious
tinkleofthebellsonthehobbledhorses.Bossybawledoftena
discordantbreakintheserenityofthenight.Occasionallythehounds
bayedher.

TowardmorningIsleptsome,andawakenedwithwhatseemeda
broken
back.All,exceptR.C.,wereslowincrawlingout.Thesunrosehot.
Thisloweraltitudewasappreciatedbyall.Afterbreakfastwesetto
worktoputthecampinorder.

Thatafternoonwerodeofftolookovertheground.Wecrossedthe

39
parkandworkedupatimberedridgeremarkableformossy,bare
ground,
andhigherupforitsalmosttotalabsenceofgrassorflowers.Onthe
othersideofthiswehadafineviewofMt.Dome,ahighpeakacross
avalley.Thenweworkeddownintothevalley,whichwasfullof
parks
andpondsandrunningstreams.Wefoundsomefreshsignofdeer,
anda
gooddealofoldelkanddeersign.Butwesawnogameofanykind.It
wasatediousridebackthroughthickforest,whereIobservedmany
treesthathadbeenbarkedbyporcupines.Somepatcheswerefour
feet
fromtheground,indicatingthattheporcupinehadsatonthesnow
whenhegnawedthoseparticularplaces.

AftersunsetR.C.andIwentoffdownatrailintothewoods,and
sittingdownunderahugesprucewelistened.Theforestwassolemn
andstill.Fardownsomewhereroaredastream,andthatwasallthe
soundweheard.Thegrayshadowsdarkenedandgloompenetrated
the
aislesoftheforest,untilalltheshelteredplaceswereblackas
pitch.Thespruceslookedspectralandspeaking.Thesilenceof
thewoodswasdeep,profound,andprimeval.Itallworkedonmy
imaginationuntilIbegantohearfaintsounds,andfinallygrand
orchestralcrashingsofmelody.

Onourreturnthestrangecreepingchill,thatmustbeadescendantof
theoldelementalfear,caughtmeatallobscurecurvesinthetrail.

Nextdaywestartedoffearly,andclimbedthroughthewoodsand
into
theparksundertheDome.Wescaredadeerthathadevidentlybeen
drinking.Hisfreshtracksledbeforeus,butwecouldnotcatcha
glimpseofhim.

40
Weclimbedoutoftheparks,upontotherockyridgeswherethe
sprucegrewscarce,andthenfarthertothejumbleofstonesthathad
weatheredfromthegreatpeaksabove,andbeyondthatuptheslope
whereallthevegetationwasdwarfed,deformed,andweird,strange
manifestationofitsstruggleforlife.Heretheairgrewkeenerand
cooler,andthelightseemedtoexpand.Werodeontothesteepslope
thatleduptothegapweweretocrossbetweentheDomeandits
companion.

Isawaredfoxrunninguptheslope,anddismountingItookaquick
shotatthreehundredyards,andscoredahit.Itturnedouttobea
crossfox,andhadveryprettyfur.

Whenwereachedthelevelofthedeepgapthewindstruckushard
and
cold.Onthatsideopenedanabyss,grayandshelvingasitleddown
togreentimber,andthenontotheyellowparksandblackridgesthat
gleamedundertheoppositerange.

Wehadtoworkroundawideamphitheater,andupasteepcornerto
the
top.Thisturnedouttobelevelandsmoothforalongway,witha
short,velvetyyellowgrass,likemoss,spottedwithflowers.Hereat
thirteenthousandfeet,thewindhituswithexceedingforce,andsoon
haduswithfreezinghandsandfaces.Allaboutuswereboldblack
and
graypeaks,withpatchesofsnow,andabovethemcloudsofwhite
and
drab,showingblueskybetween.Itdevelopedthatthisgrassysummit
ascendedinalonggradualsweep,fromtheapexofwhichstretcheda
grandexpanse,likeaplainofgold,downanddown,endlesslyalmost,
andthenupanduptoendunderagraybutte,highestofthepoints
around.Therideacrosshereseemedtohavenolimit,butitwas
beautiful,thoughsevereonendurance.Isawanotherfox,and
dismounting,firedfiveshotsasheran,dustinghimwiththree

41
bullets.Werodeouttotheedgeofthemountainandlookedoff.It
wasfearful,yetsublime.Theworldlaybeneathus.Inmanyplaceswe
rodealongtherim,andatlastcircledthegreatbutte,andworkedup
behinditonaswellofslope.Heretherangeranwestandthedrop
wasnotsheer,but,gradualwithfinebenchesforsheep.Wefound
many
tracksandfreshsign,butdidnotseeonesheep.Meanwhilethe
hardwindhadceased,andthesunhadcomeout,makingtheride
comfortable,asfarasweatherwasconcerned.Wehadgottenalong
way
fromcamp,andfindingnotrailtodescendinthatdirectionweturned
toretraceoursteps.Thatwasaboutoneoclock,andwerodeandrode
androde,untilIwassotiredthatIcouldnotappreciatethescenes
asIhadonthewayup.Ittooksixhourstogetbacktocamp!

Nextmorningwetookthehoundsandrodeoffforbear.Eightofthe
houndswerechainedinbraces,onebigandonelittledogtogether,
andtheycertainlyhadahardtimeofit.Sampson,thegiantgrayand
brownhound,andJim,theoldblackleader,werefreetoruntoand
froacrosstheway.Werodedownafewmiles,andintotheforest.
Thereweretwolong,blackridges,andhereweweretohuntforbear.
Itwasthehardestkindofwork,turningandtwistingbetweenthe
trees,dodgingsnags,andbrushingasidebranches,andguidinga
horse
amongfallenlogs.Theforestwasthick,andthegroundwasarich
brownandblackmuck,softtothehorsesfeet.Manytimesthe
hounds
gotcaughtonsnags,andhadtobereleased.OnceSampsonpickedup
a
scentofsomekind,andwentoffbaying.OldJimranacrossthattrail
andreturned,thusmakingitclearthattherewasnobeartrail.We
penetrateddeepbetweenthetworidges,andcametoalittlelake,
aboutthirtyfeetwide,surroundedbyrushesandgrass.Herewe
rested
thehorses,andincidentally,ourselves.Foxchasedaduck,andit

42
flewintothewoodsandhidunderalog.Foxtrailedit,andTeague
shotitjustashemighthavearabbit.Wegottwomoreducks,fine
bigmallards,thesameway.Itwasamazingtome,andR.C.remarked
thatneverhadheseensuchstrangeandfoolishducks.

Thisforesthadhundredsoftreesbarkedbyporcupines,andsome
clear
tothetop.Butwemetonlyoneoftheanimals,andheleftseveral
quillsinthenoseofoneofthepups.Iwasoftheopinionthatthese
porcupinesdestroymanyfinetrees,asIsawanumberbarkedall
around.

Wedidnotseeanybearsign.Onthewaybacktocampwerodeoutof
theforestanddownawidevalley,theoppositesideofwhichwas
open
slopewithpatchesofalder.EvenatadistanceIcoulddiscernthe
coloroftheseopengladesandgrassybenches.Theyhadatingeof
purple,likepurplesage.WhenIgottothemIfoundaprofusionof
astersofthemostexquisiteshadesoflavender,pinkandpurple.That
slopewaslong,andallthewayupwerodethroughthesebeautiful
wildflowers.Ishallneverforgetthatsight,northemanyasters
thatshonelikestarsoutofthegreen.Thepinkoneswerenewtome,
andactuallydidnotseemreal.Inoticedmyhorseoccasionallynipped
abunchandatethem,whichseemedtomealmostasheartlessasto
treadthemunderfoot.

Whenwegotuptheslopeandintothewoodsagainwemetastorm,
and
traveledforanhourintherain,andunderthedrippingspruces,
feelingthecoldwetstingofswayingbranchesaswerodeby.Then
the
suncameoutbrightandtheforestglittered,allgoldandgreen.The
smellofthewoodsafterarainisindescribable.Itcombinesarare
tangofpine,spruce,earthandair,allrefreshed.

43
Thedayafter,weleftateightoclock,androdedowntothemain
trail,andupthatforfivemileswherewecutofftotheleftand
climbedintothetimber.Thewoodswerefreshanddewy,darkand
cool,
andforalongtimeweclimbedbenchafterbenchwherethegrassand
fernsandmossmadeathick,deepcover.Fartherupwegotintofallen
timberandmadeslowprogress.Attimberlinewetiedthehorsesand
climbeduptothepassbetweentwogreatmountainramparts.Sheep
trackswereinevidence,butnotveryfresh.TeagueandIclimbedon
topandR.C.,withVern,wentbelowjustalongthetimberline.The
climbonfoottookallmystrength,andmanytimesIhadtohaltfor
breath.Theairwascold.Westolealongtherimandpeeredover.R.C.
andVernlookedlikeverylittlemenfarbelow,andthedogs
resembled
mice.

Teagueclimbedhigher,andleftmeonapromontory,watchingall
around.

Thecloudpageantwasmagnificent,withhugebillowywhitemasses
acrossthevalley,andtothewestgreatblackthunderheadsrolling
up.Thewindbegantoblowhard,carryingdropsofrainthatstung,
andtheairwasnippingcold.Ifeltalooffromallthecrowdedworld,
aloneonthewindyheights,withcloudsandstormallaroundme.

WhenthestormthreatenedIwentbacktothehorses.Itbroke,but
wasnotsevereafterall.AtlengthR.C.andthemenreturnedandwe
mountedtoridebacktocamp.Thestormblewaway,leavingthesky
clearandblue,andthesunshonewarm.Wehadanhourofwinding
in
andoutamongwindfallsoftimber,andjumpinglogs,andbreaking
throughbrush.Thenthewayslopeddowntoabeautifulforest,shady
andgreen,fullofmossydells,almostovergrownwithfernsandlow
spreadinggroundpineorspruce.Theaislesoftheforestwerelong
andshadedbythestatelyspruces.Waterranthrougheveryravine,

44
sometimesabrawlingbrook,sometimesarivulethiddenunder
overhangingmossybanks.Wescareduptwolonelygrouse,atlong
intervals.Atlengthwegotintofallentimber,andfromthatworked
intoajumbleofrocks,wherethegoingwasroughanddangerous.

Theafternoonwanedaswerodeonandon,upanddown,inandout,
around,andattimesthehorsesstoodalmostontheirheads,sliding
downsteepplaceswheretheearthwassoftandblack,andgaveforth
a
dankodor.Wepassedpondsandswamps,andlittlelakes.Wesaw
where
beavershadgnaweddownaspens,andwejustescapedmiringour
horsesinmarshes,wherethegrassgrew,richandgolden,hiding
thetreacherousmire.Thesunset,andstillwedidnotseemtoget
anywhere.Iwasafraiddarknesswouldovertakeus,andwewould
get
lostinthewoods.Presentlywestruckanoldelktrail,andfollowing
thatforawhile,cametoapointwhereR.C.andIrecognizedatree
andagladewherewehadbeenbeforeandnotfarfromcampa
welcome
discovery.

Nextdaywebrokecampandstartedacrosscountryfornewterritory
nearWhitleysPeak.

Werodeeastupthemountain.Afterseveralmilesalonganold
logging
roadwereachedthetimber,andeventuallythetopoftheridge.We
wentdown,crossingparksandswales.Therewerecattlepastures,
and
eatenoverandtroddensomuchtheyhadnobeautyleft.Teague
wanted
tocampatasaltlick,butIdidnotcarefortheplace.

Wewenton.Thedogscrossedabeartrail,andburstoutinaclamor.

45
Wehadahardtimeholdingthem.

TheguideandIhadahotargument.Ididnotwanttostaythereand
chaseabearinacowpasture....Sowewenton,downintoranch
country,andthisdisgustedmefurther.Wecrossedaranch,androde
severalmilesonahighway,thenturnedabruptly,andclimbeda
rough,
rockyridge,coveredwithbrushandaspen.Wecrossedit,andwent
downforseveralmiles,andhadtocampinanaspengrove,onthe
slopeofaravine.Itwasanuninvitingplacetostay,butasthere
wasnootherwehadtomakethebestofit.Theafternoonhadwaned.
I
tookagunandwentoffdowntheravine,untilIcametoadeepgorge.
HereIheardthesoundofabrawlingbrook.Isatdownforanhour,
butsawnogame.

ThatnightIhadawretchedbed,onethatIcouldhardlystayin,
andIpassedmiserablehours.Igotupsore,cramped,sleepyand
irritable.Wehadtowaitthreehoursforthehorsestobecaughtand
packed.Ihadpredictedstrayinghorses.Atlastwewereoff,androde
alongthesteepslopeofacanyonforseveralmiles,andthenstrucka
streamofambercoloredwater.Asweclimbedalongthiswecame
into
deepspruceforest,whereitwaspleasuretoride.Isawmanydells
andnooks,coolandshady,fullofmossyrocksandgreattrees.But
flowerswerescarce.Weweresorrytopasstheheadspringsofthat
streamandtogoonoverthedivideanddownintothewooded,but
dry
andstonycountry.Werodeuntillate,andcameatlasttoapark
wheresheephadbeenrun.Irefusedtocamphere,andTeague,in
high
dudgeon,rodeon.AsitturnedoutIwasbothwiseandlucky,forwe
rodeintoaparkwithmanybranches,wheretherewasgoodwater
and
fairgrassandaprettygroveofwhitepinesinwhichtopitchour

46
tents.Ienjoyedthiscamp,andhadafinerestatnight.

Themorningbrokedarkandlowering.Wehustledtogetstarted
before
astormbroke.Itbegantorainaswemountedourhorses,andsoon
wewereinthemidstofacoldrain.Itblewhard.Weputonour
slickers.Afterashortridedownthroughtheforestweentered
BuffaloPark.Thiswasalargepark,andwelosttimetryingtofinda
foresterstrailleadingoutofit.Atlastwefoundone,butitsoon
peteredout,andwewerelostinthicktimber,inadrivingrain,with
thecoldandwindincreasing.Butwekepton.

Thisforestwasdeepanddark,withtremendouswindfalls,andgreat
canyonsaroundwhichwehadtotravel.Ittookushourstorideoutof
it.Whenwebegantodescendoncemorewestruckanoldlumber
road.
Moreluckthestormceased,andpresentlywewereoutonanaspen
slopewithagreatvalleybeneath,andhigh,blackpeaksbeyond.
Below
theaspenswerelongswellingslopesofsageandgrass,grayand
goldenandgreen.Aranchlayinthevalley,andwecrosseditto
climbupawindingravine,oncemoretotheaspenswherewecamped
in
therancherspasture.Itwasacold,wetcamp,butwemanagedtobe
fairlycomfortable.

Thesunsetwasgorgeous.Themassofcloudsbrokeandrolled.
Therewasexquisitegoldenlightonthepeaks,andmanyroseand
violethuedbanksofcloud.

Morningfoundusshroudedinfog.Wewerelatestarting.Aboutnine
thecurtainofgraybegantoliftandbreak.Weclimbedpasturesand
aspenthickets,highuptothespruce,wherethegrassgrewluxuriant,
andtheredwallofrockoverhungthelongslopes.Theviewwestwas
magnificentalong,bulgingrangeofmountains,vaststretchesof

47
greenaspenslopes,windingparksofallshapes,grayandgoldand
green,andjuttingpeaks,andhereandtherepatchesofautumnblaze
ingrassandthicket.

Wespenttheafternoonpitchingcamponanaspenknoll,withwater,
grass,andwoodnearathand,andthesplendidviewofmountains
and
valleysbelow.

WespentmanyfulldaysundertheshadowofWhitleysPeak.After
the
middleofSeptembertheaspenscoloredandblazedtothetouchof
frost,andthemountainslopeswereexceedinglybeautiful.Against
abackgroundofgraysagethegoldandredandpurpleaspengroves
showedtoomuchlikeexquisitepaintingstoseemreal.Inthe
mornings
thefrostglistenedthickandwhiteonthegrass;andafterthe
gorgeoussunsetsofgoldovertheviolethazedrangestheairgrew
stinginglycold.

Bearchasingwithapackofhoundshasbeenseverelycriticisedby
manywritersandIwasamongthem.Ibelieveditacowardly
business,
andthatwaswhy,ifIchasedbearswithdogs,Iwantedtochasethe
kindthatcouldnotbetreed.ButlikemanyanotherIdidnotknow
whatIwaswritingabout.IdidnotshootabearoutofatreeandI
wouldnotdoso,exceptinacaseofhunger.Allthesame,leavingthe
treeoutofconsideration,bearchasingwithhoundsisatremendously
excitingandhazardousgame.Butmyideasaboutsportarechanging.
Hunting,inthesportsmanssense,isacruelanddegeneratebusiness.

ThemoreIhuntthemoreIbecomeconvincedofsomethingwrong
about
thegame.IamadifferentmanwhenIgetaguninmyhands.Allis
exciting,hotpressed,red.Huntingismagnificentuptothemoment

48
theshotisfired.Afterthatitisanothermatter.Itisuselessfor
sportsmentotellmethatthey,inparticular,huntright,conserve
thegame,donotgobeyondthelimit,andallthatsortofthing.Ido
notbelievethemandInevermettheguidewhodid.Arifleismade
forkilling.Whenamangoesoutwithonehemeanstokill.Hemay
keepwithinthelaw,butthatisnotthequestion.Itisaquestionof
spirit,andmenwholovetohuntareyieldingtoandalways
developing
theoldprimitiveinstincttokill.Themeaningofthespiritoflife
isnotcleartothem.Anargumentmaybeadvancedthat,accordingto
thelawsofselfpreservationandthesurvivalofthefittest,ifa
manstopsallstrife,allfight,thenhewillretrograde.Andthatis
tosayifamandoesnotgotothewildsnowandthen,andworkhard
andlivesomesemblanceofthelifeofhisprogenitors,hewill
weaken.Itseemsthathewill,butIamnotpreparednowtosay
whetherornotthatwouldbewell.TheGermansbelievetheyarethe
racefittesttosurviveoverallothersandthathasmademea
littlesickofthisDarwinbusiness.

Toreturn,however,tothefactthattorideafterhoundsonawild
chaseisadangerousandwonderfullyexhilaratingexperience,Iwill
relateacoupleofinstances,andIwillleaveittomyreadersto
judgewhetherornotitisacowardlysport.

Oneafternoonaranchervisitedourcampandinformedusthathe
had
surprisedabigblackbeareatingthecarcassofadeadcow.

Good!Wellhaveabeartomorrownight,declaredTeague,in
delight.Wellgethimevenifthetrailisadayold.Buthellcome
backtonight.

Earlynextmorningtheyoungrancherandthreeotherboysrodeinto
camp,sayingtheywouldliketogowithustoseethefun.Wewere
gladtohavethem,andwerodeoffthroughthefrostedsagethat

49
crackledlikebrittleglassunderthehoofsofthehorses.Ourguide
ledtowardabranchofapark,andwhenwegotwithinperhapsa
quarterofamileTeaguesuggestedthatR.C.andIgoaheadonthe
chanceofsurprisingthebear.Itwasowingtothissuggestionthatmy
brotherandIwerewellaheadoftheothers.Butwedidnotseeany
bearnearthecarcassofthecow.OldJimandSampsonwereclose
behindus,andwhenJimcamewithinfortyyardsofthatcarcasshe
puthisnoseupwithadeepandringingbay,andheshotbyuslikea
streak.Heneverwentnearthedeadcow!Sampsonbayedlike
thunder
andracedafterJim.

Theyreoff!IyelledtoR.C.Itsahotscent!Comeon!

Wespurredourhorsesandtheybrokeacrosstheopenparktothe
edge
ofthewoods.JimandSampsonwererunningstraightwithnoses
high.I
heardastringofyelpsandbellowsfromourrear.

Lookback!shoutedR.C.

Teagueandthecowboyswereunleashingtherestofthepack.It
surely
wasgreattoseethemstretchout,yelpingwildly.Likethewindthey
passedus.JimandSampsonheadedintothewoodswithdeepbays.I
was
ridingTeaguesbesthorseforthissortofworkandheunderstoodthe
gameandplainlyenjoyedit.R.C.shorseranasfastinthewoodsas
hedidintheopen.Thisfrightenedme,andIyelledtoR.C.tobe
careful.Iyelledtodeafears.Thatisthefirstgreatriskarider
isnotgoingtobecareful!WewererightontopofJimandSampson
withthepackclamoringmadmusicjustbehind.Theforestrang.Both
horseshurdledlogs,sometimestwoatonce.Myoldlionchaseswith
BuffaloJoneshadmademeskillfulindodgingbranchesandsnags,

50
and
slidingkneesbacktoavoidknockingthemagainsttrees.Foramile
theforestwascomparativelyopen,andherewehadagrandand
ringing
run.Ireceivedtwohardknocks,wasunseatedonce,butheldon,and
Igotastingingcrackinthefacefromabranch.R.C.addedseveral
moreblackandbluespotstohisalreadyspottedanatomy,andhe
missed,justbyaninch,asolidsnagthatwouldhavebrokenhim
intwo.Thepackstretchedoutinwildstaccatochorus,thelittle
Airedalesliterallyscreeching.Jimgotoutofoursightandthen
Sampson.Stillitwasevermorethrillingtofollowbysoundrather
thansight.Theyledupathick,steepslope.Herewegotintotrouble
inthewindfallsoftimberandthepackdrewawayfromus,upover
the
mountain.Wewerehalfwayupwhenweheardthemjumpthebear.
The
forestseemedfullofstrifeandbaysandyelps.Weheardthedogsgo
downagaintoourright,andasweturnedwesawTeagueandthe
others
strungoutalongtheedgeofthepark.Theygotfaraheadofus.When
wereachedthebottomoftheslopetheywereoutofsight,butwe
couldhearthemyell.Thehoundswereworkingaroundonanother
slope,
fromwhichcraggyrocksloomedabovethetimber.R.C.shorse
lunged
acrosstheparkandappearedtoberunningofffrommine.Iwasa
littletotheright,andwhenmyhorsegotunderway,fullspeed,we
hadthebadlucktoplungesuddenlyintosoftground.Hewenttohis
knees,andIsailedoutofthesaddlefullytwentyfeet,toalightall
spreadoutandtoslidelikeaplow.Ididnotseemtobehurt.WhenI
gotupmyhorsewascomingandheappearedtobepatientwithme,
but
hewasinahurry.BeforewegotacrossthewetplaceR.C.wasoutof
sight.IdecidedthatinsteadofworryingabouthimIhadbetterthink
aboutmyself.Onceonhardgroundmyhorsefairlychargedintothe

51
woodsandwebrokebrushandbranchesasiftheyhadbeenpunk.It
wasagainopenforest,thenarockyslope,andthenaflatridgewith
aislesbetweenthetrees.HereIheardthemelodiousnotesofTeagues
huntinghorn,andfollowingthat,thefullchorusofthehounds.They
hadtreedthebear.Comingintostillmoreopenforest,withrocks
hereandthere,IcaughtsightofR.C.farahead,andsoonIhad
glimpsesoftheotherhorses,andlastly,whileridingfulltilt,I
spiedabig,black,glisteningbearhighupinapineahundredyards
ormoredistant.

SlowingdownIrodeuptothecircleoffrenzieddogsandexcited
men.
Theboyswerealljabberingatonce.Teaguewasbeaming.R.C.sathis
horse,anditstruckmethathelookedsorryforthebear.

Fifteenminutes!ejaculatedTeague,withaproudglanceatOldJim
standingwithforepawsuponthepine.

Indeedithadbeenashortandringingchase.

AllthetimewhileIfooledaroundtryingtophotographthetreed
bear,R.C.satthereonhishorse,lookingupward.

Well,gentlemen,betterkillhim,saidTeague,cheerfully.Ifhe
getsrestedhellcomedown.

ItwasthenIsuggestedtoR.C.thathedotheshooting.

Notmuch!heexclaimed.

Thebearlookedreallyprettyperchedupthere.Hewasasroundasa
barrelandblackasjetandhisfurshoneinthegleamsofsunlight.
Histonguehungout,andhisplumpsidesheaved,showingwhata
quick,
hardrunhehadmadebeforebeingdriventothetree.Whatstruckme

52
mostforciblyabouthimwastheexpressioninhiseyesashelooked
downatthosedevilsofhounds.Hewasscared.Herealizedhisperil.
ItwasutterlyimpossibleformetoseeTeaguespointofview.

Goaheadandplughim,Irepliedtomybrother.Getitover.

Youdoit,hesaid.

No,Iwont.

WhynotIdliketoknow?

MaybewewonthavesogoodachanceagainandIwantyoutoget
yourbear,Ireplied.

Whyitslikemurder,heprotested.

Oh,notsobadasthat,Ireturned,weakly.Weneedthemeat.Weve
nothadanygamemeat,youknow,exceptducksandgrouse.

Youwontdoit?headded,grimly.

No,Irefuse.

Meanwhiletheyoungranchersgazedatuswithwideeyesandthe
expressiononTeagueshonest,ruddyfacewouldhavebeenfunny
under
othercircumstances.

Thatbearwillcomedownanmebbekilloneofmydogs,he
protested.

Well,hecancomeforallIcare,Ireplied,positively,andI
turnedaway.

53
IheardR.C.curselowunderhisbreath.Thenfollowedthespangof
his
.35Remington.Iwheeledintimetoseethebearstrainingupwardin
terribleconvulsion,hisheadpointedhigh,withbloodspurtingfrom
his
nose.Slowlyheswayedandfellwithaheavycrash.

Thenextbearchasewehadwasentirelydifferentmedicine.

OffinthebasinundertheWhiteSlides,backofourcamp,thehounds
struckafreshtrackandinaninstantwereoutofsight.Withthe
cowboyVernsettingthepaceweplungedafterthem.Itwasrough
country.Bogs,brooks,swales,rockylittleparks,stretchesoftimber
fullofwindfalls,grovesofaspenssothickwecouldscarcelysqueeze
throughalltheseobstaclessoonallowedthehoundstogetfaraway.
Wecameoutintoalargepark,rightunderthemountainslope,and
herewesatourhorseslisteningtothechase.Thattrailledaround
thebasinandbackneartous,upthethickgreenslope,wherehighup
nearaledgeweheardthepackjumpthisbear.Itsoundedtousasif
hehadbeenrousedoutofasleep.

Illbetitsoneofthebiggrizzliesweveheardabout,said
Teague.

Thatwassomethingtomytaste.Ihaveseenafewgrizzlies.Riding
tohighergroundIkeptclosewatchonthefewopenpatchesuponthe
slope.Thechaseledtowardusforawhile.SuddenlyIsawabigbear
withafrostedcoatgolumberingacrossoneoftheseopenings.

Silvertip!Silvertip!Iyelledatthetopofmylungs.Isawhim!

Mycallthrilledeverybody.Vernspurredhishorseandtooktothe
right.Teagueadvisedthatweclimbtheslope.Sowemadeforthe
timber.Oncetherewehadtogetoffandclimbonfoot.Itwassteep,
rough,veryhardwork.Ihadonchapsandspurs.SoonIwashot,

54
laboring,andmyheartbegantohurt.Weallhadtorest.Thebaying
ofthehoundsinspiritedusnowandthen,butpresentlywelostit.
Teaguesaidtheyhadgoneovertheridgeandassoonaswegotupto
thetopwewouldhearthemagain.Westruckanelktrailwithfresh
elktracksinit.Teaguesaidtheywerejustaheadofus.Inever
climbedsohardandfastinmylife.Wewerealltuckeredoutwhen
we
reachedthetopoftheridge.Thentoourgreatdisappointmentwedid
nothearthehounds.Mountingwerodealongthecrestofthis
wooded
ridgetowardthewesternend,whichwasconsiderablyhigher.Once
on
abarepatchofgroundwesawwherethegrizzlyhadpassed.Thebig,
roundtracks,toeinginalittle,madeachillgooverme.Nodoubtof
itsbeingasilvertip!

Weclimbedandrodetothehighpoint,andcomingoutuponthe
summit
ofthemountainweallheardthedeep,hoarsebayingofthepack.
They
wereinthecanyondownabaregrassyslopeandoverawooded
bench
atourfeet.Teagueyelledashespurreddown.R.C.rodehardinhis
tracks.

Butmyhorsewasnewtothisbearchasing.Hewasmettlesome,and
he
didnotwanttodowhatIwanted.WhenIjabbedthespursintohis
flankshenearlybuckedmeoff.Iwaslookingforasoftplaceto
lightwhenhequit.LongbeforeIgotdownthatopenslopeTeague
and
R.C.haddisappeared.Ihadtofollowtheirtracks.ThisIdidata
gallop,butnowandthenlostthetracks,andhadtohaulintofind
them.IfIcouldhaveheardthehoundsfromthereIwouldhavegone
on

55
anyway.ButoncedowninthejackpinesIcouldhearneitheryellor
bay.Thepinesweresmall,closetogether,andtough.Ihurtmyhands,
scratchedmyface,barkedmyknees.Thehorsehadahabitof
suddenly
decidingtogothewayhelikedinsteadofthewayIguidedhim,and
whenheplungedbetweensaplingstooclosetogethertopermitus
both
togothrough,itwasexceedinglyhardonme.Iwasworkedintoa
frenzy.SupposeR.C.shouldcomefacetofacewiththatoldgrizzly
andfailtokillhim!Thatwasthereasonformydesperatehurry.I
gotacrackontheheadthatnearlyblindedme.Myhorsegrewhot
and
begantorunineverylittleopenspace.Hecouldscarcelybeheldin.
AndI,withthebloodhotinmetoo,didnotholdhimhardenough.

Itseemedmilesacrossthatwoodedbench.ButatlastIreached
anotherslope.ComingoutuponacanyonrimIheardR.C.and
Teague
yelling,andIheardthehoundsfightingthegrizzly.Hewasgrowling
andthreshingaboutfarbelow.Ihadmissedthetracksmadeby
Teague
andmybrother,anditwasnecessarytofindthem.Thatslopelooked
impassable.Irodebackalongtherim,thenforward.FinallyIfound
wherethegroundwasploweddeepandhereIheadedmyhorse.He
had
beenusedtosmoothroadsandhecouldnottakethesejumps.Iwent
forwardonhisneck.ButIhungonandspurredhimhard.Themad
spiritofthatchasehadgottenintohimtoo.AllthetimeIcould
hearthefiercebayingandyelpingofthehounds,andoccasionallyI
heardasavagebawlfromthebear.Iliterallyplunged,slid,brokea
waydownthatmountainslope,ridingallthetime,beforeI
discovered
thefootprintsofTeagueandR.C.Theyhadwalked,leadingtheir
horses.BythistimeIwassomadIwouldnotgetoff.Irodeallthe
waydownthatsteepslopeofdensesaplings,looserockslidesand

56
earth,andjumbleofsplinteredcliff.Thathedidnotbreakmy
neckandhisownspokethetruthaboutthatroanhorse.Despitehis
inexperiencehewasgreat.Wefelloveronebank,butathicketof
aspenssavedusfromrolling.Theavalanchesslidfromunderusuntil
Iimaginedthatthegrizzlywouldbescared.OnceasIstoppedto
listenIheardbearandpackfartherdownthecanyonheardthem
above
theroarofarushingstream.TheywentonandIlostthesoundsof
fight.ButR.C.sclearthrillingcallfloateduptome.Probablyhe
wasworriedaboutme.

ThenbeforeIrealizeditIwasatthefootoftheslope,inanarrow
canyonbed,fullofrocksandtrees,withthedinofroaringwaterin
myears.Icouldhearnothingelse.Trackswereeverywhere,andwhen
I
cametothefirstopenplaceIwasthrilled.Thegrizzlyhadplunged
offasandybarintothewater,andtherehehadfoughtthehounds.
Signsofthatbattlewereeasytoread.Isawwherehishugetracks,
stillwet,leduptheoppositesandybank.

Then,downstream,Ididmymostrecklessriding.Onlevelground
thehorsewassplendid.Onceheleapedclearacrossthebrook.Every
plunge,everyturnIexpectedtobringmeuponmybrotherand
Teague
andthatfightingpack.MorethanonceIthoughtIheardthespangof
the.35andthismademeurgetheroanfasterandfaster.

Thecanyonnarrowed,thestreambeddeepened.Ihadtoslowdown
to
getthroughthetreesandrocks.AndsuddenlyIwasoverjoyedtoride
pellmelluponR.C.andTeaguewithhalfthepantinghounds.The
canyonhadgrowntooroughforthehorsestogofartheranditwould
havebeenuselessforustotryonfoot.AsIdismounted,sosoreand
bruisedIcouldhardlystand,oldJimcamelimpingintofallintothe
brookwherehelappedandlappedthirstily.Teaguethrewuphis

57
hands.
OldJimsreturnmeantanendedchase.Thegrizzlyhadeludedthe
houndsinthatjumbleofrocksbelow.

Say,didyoumeetthebear?queriedTeague,eyeingmein
astonishmentandmirth.

Bloody,dirty,raggedandwringingwetwithsweatImusthavebeen
a
sight.R.C.however,didnotlooksoveryimmaculate,andwhenIsaw
healsowaslameandscratchedandblackIfeltbetter.

CHAPTERIII

ROPINGLIONSINTHEGRANDCANYON

TheGrandCanyonofArizonaisovertwohundredmileslong,
thirteen
wide,andamileandahalfdeep;atitanicgorgeinwhichmountains,
tablelands,chasmsandcliffsliehalfveiledinpurplehaze.Itis
wildandsublime,athingofwonder,ofmystery;beyondallelsea
placetogriptheheartofaman,tounleashhisdaringspirit.

OnApril20th,1908,afterdaysonthehotdesert,mywearypartyand
packtrainreachedthesummitofPowellsPlateau,themostisolated,
inaccessibleandremarkablemesaofanysizeinallthecanyon

58
country.Cutofffromthemainlanditappearedinsurmountable;
standingalooffromthetowersandescarpments,ruggedandboldin
outline,itsforestcoveringlikeastripofblackvelvet,itsgiant
granitewallsgoldinthesun,itseemedapartfromtheworld,
hauntingwithitsbeauty,isolationandwildpromise.

Themembersofmypartyharmoniouslyfittedthescene.Buffalo
Jones,
burlyshouldered,bronzefaced,andgrim,provedinhisappearance
whatalifetimeontheplainscouldmakeofaman.Emettwasa
Mormon,
amassivelybuiltgreybeardedsonofthedesert;hehadlivedhis
lifeonit;hehadconquereditandinhisfalconeyesshoneallits
fireandfreedom.RangerJimOwenshadthewiry,supplebodyand
careless,tidygarbofthecowboy,andthewatchfulgaze,quietface
andlockedlipsofthefrontiersman.ThefourthmemberwasaNavajo
Indian,acopperskinned,ravenhaired,beadyeyeddesertsavage.

IhadtoldEmetttohiresomeonewhocouldputthehorsesongrass
in
theeveningandthenfindthemthenextmorning.InnorthernArizona
thisrequiredmorethangenius.Emettsecuredthebesttrailerofthe
desertNavajos.JoneshatedanIndian;andJim,whocarriedanounce
ofleadsomewhereinhisperson,associatedthispainfuladditionto
hisweightwithanunfriendlyApache,andsworeallIndiansshould
bedead.Sobetweenthetwo,EmettandIhadtroubleinkeepingour
NavajofromillustratingtheplainsmanideaofareallygoodIndiana
deadone.

Whilewewerepitchingcampamongmagnificentpinetrees,and
abovea
hollowwhereaheavybankofsnowstilllay,asoddenpoundingin
the
turfattractedourattention.

59
Holdthehorses!yelledEmett.

Asweallmadeadiveamongoursnortingandplunginghorsesthe
sound
seemedtobecomingrightintocamp.InamomentIsawastringof
wildhorsesthunderingby.Anobleblackstallionledthem,andashe
ranwithbeautifulstridehecurvedhisfineheadbackwardtolookat
us,andwhistledhiswildchallenge.

Lateraherdoflargewhitetaileddeertroopedupthehollow.The
Navajogrewmuchexcitedandwantedmetoshoot,andwhenEmett
told
himwehadnotcomeouttokill,helookeddumbfounded.Eventhe
Indianfeltitastrangedeparturefromtheusualmodeofhuntingto
travelandclimbhundredsofmilesoverhotdesertandrockribbed
canyons,tocampatlastinaspotsowildthatdeerweretameas
cattle,andthennotkill.

Nothingcouldhavepleasedmebetter,incidenttothesettlinginto
permanentcamp.Thewildhorsesandtamedeeraddedtheall
satisfying
touchtothebackgroundofforest,flowersandmightypinesand
sunlit
patchesofgrass,thewhitetentsandredblankets,thesleeping
houndsandblazingfirelogsallmakingapicturelikethatofa
huntersdream.

Come,saddleup,calledtheneverrestfulJones.LeavetheIndian
incampwiththehounds,andwellgetthelayoftheland.All
afternoonwespentridingtheplateau.Whatawonderfulplace!We
were
completelybewilderedwithitsphysicalproperties,andsurprised
attheabundanceofwildhorsesandmustangs,deer,coyotes,foxes,
grouseandotherbirds,andoverjoyedtofindinnumerableliontrails.
WhenwereturnedtocampIdrewaroughmap,whichJoneslaidflat

60
on
thegroundashecalledusaroundhim.

Now,boys,letsgetourheadstogether.

Inshapetheplateauresembledtheaceofclubs.Thecenterandside
wingswerehighandwellwoodedwithheavypines;themiddlewing
waslongest,slopedwest,hadnopine,butadensegrowthofcedar.
Numerousridgesandcanyonscutupthiscentralwing.Middle
Canyon,
thelongestanddeepest,bisectedtheplateau,headednearcamp,and
ranparallelwithtwosmallerones,whichwenamedRightandLeft
Canyons.Thesethreewerelionrunwaysandhundredsofdeer
carcasses
linedthethickets.NorthHollowwastheonlydepression,aswellas
runway,onthenorthwestrim.WestPointformedtheextreme
western
capeoftheplateau.TotheleftofWestPointwasadeepcutinof
therimwall,calledtheBay.Thethreeimportantcanyonsopenedinto
it.FromtheBay,thesouthrimwasregularandimpassableallthe
way
roundtothenarrowSaddle,whichconnectedittothemainland.

Nowthen,saidJones,whenweassuredhimthatwewerepretty
well
informedastotheimportantfeatures,youcanreadilyseeour
advantage.Theplateauisaboutnineortenmileslong,andsixwide
atitswidest.Wecantgetlost,atleastforlong.Weknowwhere
lionscangoovertherimandwellheadthemoff,makeshortcut
chases,somethingnewinlionhunting.Wearepositivethelionscan
notgetoverthesecondwall,exceptwherewecameup,attheSaddle.
Inregardtolionsigns,Imdoubtfuloftheevidenceofmyowneyes.
Thisisvirginground.NowhitemanorIndianhaseverhuntedlions
here.Wehavestumbledonalionhome,thebreedingplaceof
hundreds

61
oflionsthatinfestthenorthrimofthecanyon.

Theoldplainsmanstruckabigfistintothepalmofhishand,arare
actionwithhim.Jimliftedhisbroadhatandranhisfingersthrough
hiswhitehair.InEmettscleardeserteagleeyesshownafurtive,
anxiouslook,whichyetcouldnotovershadowthesmoulderingfire.

Ifonlywedontkillthehorses!hesaid.

Morethananythingelsethatremarkfromsuchamanthrilledme
with
itssubtlesuggestion.Helovedthosebeautifulhorses.Whatwild
rideshesawinhismindseye!Incoldcalculationweperceivedthe
wonderfulpossibilitiesneverbeforeexperiencedbyhunters,andas
thewildspellclutchedusmylastbarofrestraintletdown.

Duringsupperwetalkedincessantly,andafterwardaroundthe
campfire.Twilightfellwiththedarkshadowssweepingunderthe
silentpines;thenightwindroseandbeganitsmoan.

Shoretheressomescentonthewind,saidJim,lightinghispipe
witharedember.SeehowuneasyDonis.

Thehoundraisedhisfine,darkheadandrepeatedlysniffedtheair,
thenwalkedtoandfroasifonguardforhispack.Mozegroundhis
teethonaboneandgrowledatoneofthepups.Sounderwassleepy,
buthewatchedDonwithsuspiciouseyes.Theotherhounds,mature
and
somber,laystretchedbeforethefire.

Tiethemup,Jim,saidJones,andletsturnin.

II

62
WhenIawakenednextmorningthesoundofEmettsaxerangout
sharply.Littlestreaksoflightfromthecampfireplayedbetweenthe
flapsofthetent.IsawoldMozegetupandstretchhimself.Ajangle
ofcowbellsfromtheforesttoldmewewouldnothavetowaitforthe
horsesthatmorning.

TheInjunsallright,JonesremarkedtoEmett.

Allrustleforbreakfast,calledJim.

Weateinthesemidarknesswiththegrayshadoweverbrightening.
Dawnbrokeaswesaddledourhorses.Thepupswerelimber,andran
toandfroontheirchains,scentingtheair;theolderhoundsstood
quietlywaiting.

ComeNavvycomechasecougie,saidEmett.

Dam!No!repliedtheIndian.

Lethimkeepcamp,suggestedJim.

Allright;buthelleatusout,Emettdeclared.

Climbupyoufellows,saidJones,impatiently.HaveIgot
everythingrope,chains,collars,wire,nippers?Yes,allright.
Hyar,youlazydogsoutofthis!

Werodeabreastdowntheridge.Thedemeanorofthehounds
contrasted
sharplywithwhatithadbeenatthestartofthehunttheyear
before.Thentheyhadbeeneager,uncertain,violent;theydidnot
knowwhatwasintheair;nowtheyfiledafterDoninanorderlytrot.

Westruckoutofthepinesathalfpastfive.Floatingmisthidthe
lowerendoftheplateau.Themorninghadacooltouchbuttherewas

63
nofrost.CrossingMiddleCanyonabouthalfwaydownwejoggedon.
Cedartreesbegantoshowbrightgreenagainstthesoftgraysage.We
werenearingthedarklineofthecedarforestwhenJim,wholed,held
uphishandinawarningcheck.Weclosedinaroundhim.

WatchDon,hesaid.

Thehoundstoodstiff,headwellup,noseworking,andthehaironhis
backbristling.Alltheotherhoundswhinedandkeptclosetohim.

Donscentsalion,whisperedJim.Iveneverknownhimtodothat
unlesstherewasthescentofaliononthewind.

HuntemupDon,oldboy,calledJones.

Thepackcommencedtoworkbackandforthalongtheridge.We
neared
ahollowwhenDonbarkedeagerly.Sounderansweredandlikewise
Jude.
Mozesshortangrybowwowshowedtheoldgladiatortobeinline.

Rangersgone,criedJim.Hewasfarthestahead.Illbethes
struckit.Wellknowinaminute,forwereclose.

Thehoundsweretearingthroughthesage,workingharderand
harder,
callingandansweringoneanother,allthetimegettingdownintothe
hollow.

Donsuddenlyletoutastringofyelps.Isawhim,runningheadup,
passintothecedarslikeayellowdart.Sounderhowledhisdeep,full
bay,andledtherestofthepackuptheslopeinangryclamor.

Theyreoff!yelledJim,andsowerewe.

64
Inlessthanaminutewehadlostoneanother.Crashingsamongthe
dry
cedars,thudofhoofsandyellskeptmegoinginonedirection.The
fieryburstofthehoundshadsurprisedme.IrememberedthatJim
had
saidEmettandhischargermightkeepthepackinsight,butthatnone
oftherestofuscould.

Itdidnottakemelongtorealizewhatmymustangwasmadeof.His
namewasFoxie,whichsuitedhimwell.Hecarriedmeatafastpace
on
thetrailofsomeone;andheseemedtoknowthatbykeepinginthis
trailpartoftheworkofbreakingthroughthebrushwasalreadydone
forhim.Nevertheless,thesharpdeadbranches,morenumerousina
cedarforestthanelsewhere,struckandstungusaswepassed.We
climbedaridge,andfoundthecedarsthinningoutintoopenpatches.
ThenwefacedabareslopeofsageandIsawEmettbelowonhisbig
horse.

Foxiebolteddownthisslope,hurdlingthebunchesofsage,and
showingthespeedofwhichEmetthadboasted.Theopenground,
with
itsbrush,rockandgullies,waseasygoingforthelittlemustang.I
heardnothingsavethewindsinginginmyears.Emettstrail,plain
intheyellowgroundshowedmetheway.Onenteringthecedars
again
IpulledFoxieinandstoppedtwicetoyellwaahoo!Iheardthe
bayingofthehounds,butnoanswertomysignal.ThenIattendedto
thesternbusinessofcatchingup.Forwhatseemedalongtime,I
threadedthemazeofcedar,gallopedtheopensageflats,alwayson
Emettstrack.

Asignalcry,sharptotheright,turnedme.Ianswered,andwiththe
exchangeofsignalcriesfoundmywayintoanopengladewhere
Jones

65
andJimawaitedme.

Heresone,saidJim.Emettmustbewiththehounds.Listen.

Withthelaboredbreathingofthehorsesfillingourearswecould
hearnoothersound.Dismounting,Iwentasideandturnedmyearto
thebreeze.

IhearDon,Icriedinstantly.

Whichway?bothmenasked.

West.

Strange,saidJones.Thehoundwouldntsplit,wouldhe,Jim?

Donleavethathottrail?Shorehewouldnt,repliedJim.Buthis
runnindoseemqueerthismorning.

Thebreezeisfreshening,Isaid.There!Nowlisten!Don,and
Sounder,too.

Thebayingcamecloserandcloser.Ourhorsesthrewuplongears.It
washardtositstillandwait.AtaquickcryfromJimwesawDon
crossthelowerendoftheflat.

Noneedtospurourmounts!Theliftingofbridlesserved,andaway
weraced.Foxiepassedtheothersinshortorder.Donhadlong
disappeared,butwithblendedbays,Jude,Moze,andSounderbroke
out
ofthecedarshotonthetrail.They,too,wereoutofsightina
moment.

Thecrashofbreakingbrushandthunderofhoofsfromwherethe
hounds

66
hadcomeoutoftheforest,attractedandevenfrightenedme.Isaw
thegreenofalowcedartreeshake,andsplit,toletoutahuge,
gaunthorsewithabigmandoubledoverhissaddle.Theonslaught
ofEmettandhisdesertchargerstirredafearinmethatchecked
admiration.

Houndsrunningwild,heyelled,andthedarkshadowsofthecedars
claimedhimagain.

AhundredyardswithintheforestwecameagainuponEmett,
dismounted,searchingtheground.MozeandSounderwerewithhim,
apparentlyatfault.SuddenlyMozeleftthelittlegladeandventing
hissullen,quickbark,disappearedunderthetrees.Soundersaton
hishaunchesandyelped.

Nowwhatthehelliswrong?growledJonestumblingoffhissaddle.

Shoresomethingis,saidJim,alsodismounting.

Heresaliontrack,interposedEmett.

Ha!andheresanother,criedJones,ingreatsatisfaction.Thats
thetrailwewereon,andheresanothercrossingitatrightangles.
Botharefresh:oneisntfifteenminutesold.DonandJudehavesplit
onewayandMozeanother.ByGeorge!thatsgreatofSounderto
hang
fire!

Puthimonthefreshtrail,saidJim,vaultingintohissaddle.

Jonescomplied,withtheresultthatwesawSounderstartoffonthe
trailMozehadtaken.Allofusgotinsomeprettyhardriding,and
managedtostaywithinearshotofSounder.Wecrossedacanyon,and
presentlyreachedanotherwhich,fromitsdepth,musthavebeen
Middle

67
Canyon.Sounderdidnotclimbtheoppositeslope,sowefollowedthe
rim.Fromabareridgewedistinguishedthelineofpinesaboveus,
anddecidedthatourlocationwasinaboutthecenteroftheplateau.

VerylittletimeelapsedbeforeweheardMoze.Sounderhadcaught
up
withhim.Wecametoahaltwherethecanyonwidenedandwasnot
so
deep,withcliffsandcedarsoppositeus,andaneasyslopeleading
down.Sounderbayedincessantly;Mozeemittedharsh,eagerhowls,
and
bothhounds,inplainsight,beganworkingincircles.

Thelionhasgoneupsomewhere,criedJim.Looksharp!

RepeatedlyMozeworkedtotheedgeofalowwallofstoneand
looked
over;thenhebarkedandranbacktotheslope,onlytoreturn.When
Isawhimslidedownasteepplace,makeforthebottomofthestone
wall,andjumpintothelowbranchesofacedarIknewwheretolook.
ThenIdescriedthelionaroundyellowball,cunninglycurledupina
massofdarkbranches.Hehadleapedintothetreefromthewall.

Thereheis!Treed!Treed!Iyelled.Mozehasfoundhim.

Downboys,downintothecanyon,shoutedJones,insharpvoice.
Makearacket,wedontwanthimtojump.

HowheandJimandEmettrolledandcrackedthestone!Fora
momentI
couldnotgetoffmyhorse;Iwaschainedtomysaddlebyastrange
vacillationthatcouldhavebeennootherthingthanfear.

Areyouafraid?calledJonesfrombelow.

68
Yes,butIamcoming,Ireplied,anddismountedtoplungedownthe
hill.Itmayhavebeenshameorangerthatdominatedmethen;
whatever
itwasImadedirectlyforthecedar,anddidnothaltuntilIwas
underthesnarlinglion.

Nottooclose!warnedJones.Hemightjump.ItsaTom,a
twoyearold,andfulloffight.

Itdidnotmattertomethenwhetherhejumpedornot.IknewIhad
to
becuredofmydread,andthesooneritwasdonethebetter.

OldMozehadalreadyclimbedathirdofthedistanceuptothelion.

HyarMoze!Outofthere,yourascalcoonchaser!Jonesyelledashe
threwstonesandsticksatthehound.Moze,however,repliedwithhis
snarlybarkandclimbedonsteadily.

Ivegottopullhimout.Watchcloseboysandtellmeifthelion
startsdown.

WhenJonesclimbedthefirstfewbranchesofthetree,Tomletoutan
ominousgrowl.

Makereadytojump.Shorehescomin,calledJim.

Thelion,snarlingviciously,startedtodescend.Itwasaticklish
momentforallofus,particularlyJones.Warilyhebackeddown.

Boys,maybehesbluffing,saidJones,Tryhimout.Grabsticksand
runatthetreeandyell,asifyouweregoingtokillhim.

Notimprobablythedemonstrationweexecutedunderthetreewould
havefrightenedevenanAfricanlion.Tomhesitated,showedhis

69
white
fangs,returnedtohisfirstperch,andfromthereclimbedasfaras
hecould.Theforkedbranchonwhichhestoodswayedalarmingly.

Here,punchMozeout,saidJimhandingupalongpole.

Theoldhoundhunglikealeechtothetree,makingitdifficultto
dislodgehim.Atlengthhefellheavily,andventinghisthickbattle
cry,attemptedtoclimbagain.

Jimseizedhim,madehimfasttotheropewithwhichSounderhad
alreadybeentied.

SayEmett,Ivenochancehere,calledJones.Youtrytothrowat
himfromtherock.

Emettranuptherock,coiledhislassoandcastthenoose.Itsailed
perfectlyinbetweenthebranchesandcircledTomshead.Beforeit
couldbeslippedtighthehadthrownitoff.Thenhehidbehindthe
branches.

Imgoingfartherup,saidJones.

Bequick,yelledJim.

Jonesevidentlyhadthatinmind.Whenhereachedthemiddleforkof
thecedar,hestooderectandextendedthenooseofhislassoonthe
pointofhispole.Tom,withahissandsnap,struckatitsavagely.
Thesecondtrialtemptedtheliontosawtheropewithhisteeth.In
aflashJoneswithdrewthepole,andliftedaloopoftheslackrope
overthelionsears.

Pull!heyelled.

Emett,attheotherendofthelasso,threwhisgreatstrengthinto

70
action,pullingthelionoutwithacrash,andgivingthecedarsucha
tremendousshakingthatJoneslosthisfootingandfellheavily.

Thrillingasthemomentwas,Ihadtolaugh,forJonescameupoutof
acloudofdust,asangryasawethornet,andmadeprodigiousleaps
togetoutofthereachofthewhirlinglion.

Lookout!hebawled.

Tom,certainlynonetheworseforhistumble,madethreeleaps,twoat
Jones,oneatJim,whichwascheckedbytheshortlengthoftherope
inEmettshands.Thenforamoment,athickcloudofdustenveloped
thewrestlinglion,duringwhichthequickwittedJonestiedthefree
endofthelassotoasapling.

Dodgasttheluck!yelledJonesreachingforanotherlasso.I
didntmeanforyoutopullhimoutofthetree.Nowhellgetloose
orkillhimself.

Whenthedustclearedaway,wediscoveredourprizestretchedoutat
fulllengthandfrothingatthemouth.AsJonesapproached,thelion
beganaseriesofevolutionssorapidastobealmostindiscernibleto
theeye.Isawawheelofdustandyellowfur.Thencameathudand
thelionlayinert.

Jonespounceduponhimandloosedthelassoaroundhisneck.

Ithinkhesdonefor,butmaybenot.Hesbreathingyet.Here,help
metiehispawstogether.Lookout!Hescomingto!

Thelionstirredandraisedhishead.Jonesrantheloopofthesecond
lassoaroundthetwohindpawsandstretchedthelionout.Whilein
thishelplesspositionandwithnostrengthandhardlyanybreathleft
inhimthelionwaseasytohandle.WithEmettshelpJonesquickly
clippedthesharpclaws,tiedthefourpawstogether,tookoffthe

71
necklassoandsubstitutedacollarandchain.

There,thatsone.Hellcometoallright,saidJones.Butweare
lucky.Emett,neverpullanotherlionclearoutofatree.Pullhimover
alimbandhanghimtherewhilesomeonebelowropeshishind
paws.
Thatstheonlyway,andifwedontsticktoit,somebodyisgoingto
getdonefor.Come,now,wellleavethisfellowhereandhuntupDon
andJude.Theyvetreedanotherlionbythistime.

Remarkabletomewastoseehow,assoonasthelionlayhelpless,
Sounderlosthisinterest.Mozegrowled,yetreadilyleftthespot.
Beforewereachedthelevel,bothhoundshaddisappeared.

Hearthat?yelledJones,diggingspursintohishorse.Hi!Hi!Hi!

Fromthecedarsrangthethrilling,blendingchorusofbaysthattold
ofatreedlion.Theforestwasalmostimpenetrable.Wehadtopick
ourway.Emettforgedahead;weheardhimsmashingthedeadwood;
and
soonayellproclaimedthetruthofJonesassertion.

FirstIsawthemenlookingupward;thenMozeclimbingthecedar,
and
theotherhoundswithnosesskyward;andlast,inthedeadtopofthe
tree,adarkblotagainsttheblue,abigtawnylion.

Whoop!Theyellleapedpastmylips.QuietJimwasyelling;and
Emett,silentmanofthedesert,letfromhiswidecavernouschesta
boomingroarthatdrownedours.

Jonesnextdecisiveactionturnedusfromexultationtothegrim
businessofthething.HepulledMozeoutofthecedar,andwhilehe
climbedup,Emettranhisropeunderthecollarsofallofthehounds.
QuickastheideaflashedovermeIleapedintothecedaradjoining

72
theoneJoneswasin,andwentuphandoverhand.Afewpulls
brought
metothetop,andthenmybloodranhotandquick,forIwaslevel
withthelion,toocloseforcomfort,butinexcellentpositionfor
takingpictures.

Thelion,notheedingme,peereddownatJones,betweenwidespread
paws.Icouldhearnothingexceptthehounds.Jonesgrayhatcame
pushingupbetweenthedeadsnags;thenhisburlyshoulders.The
quiveringmusclesoftheliongatheredtense,andhislithebody
crouchedlowonthebranches.Hewasabouttojump.Hisopen
dripping
jaws,hiswildeyes,rovinginterrorforsomemeansofescape,his
tuftedtail,swingingagainstthetwigsandbreakingthem,manifested
hisextremity.Theeagerhoundswaitedbelow,howling,leaping.

Itbotheredmeconsiderablytokeepmybalance,regulatemycamera
andwatchtheproceedings.Jonesclimbedonwithhisropebetween
his
teeth,andalongstick.Theverynextinstantitseemedtome,I
heardthecrackingofbranchesandsawthelionbitinghardatthe
noosewhichcircledhisneck.

HereIswungdown,branchtobranch,anddroppedtotheground,for
Iwantedtoseewhatwentonbelow.Abovethehowlsandyelps,I
distinguishedJonesyell.Emettrandirectlyunderthelionwitha
spreadnooseinhishands.Jonespulledandpulled,butthelionheld
onfirmly.ThrowingtheendofthelassodowntoJim,Jonesyelled
again,andthentheybothpulled.Thelionwastoostrong.Suddenly,
however,thebranchbroke,lettingthelionfall,kickingfrantically
withallfourpaws.Emettgraspedoneofthefourwhippingpaws,and
evenasthepowerfulanimalsenthimstaggeringhedexterouslyleft
thenoosefastonthepaw.JimandJonesinunisonletgooftheir
lasso,whichstreakedupthroughthebranchesasthelionfell,and
thenitdroppedtotheground,whereJimmadeaflyinggrabforit.

73
Jonesplungingoutofthetreefellupontheropeatthesameinstant.

Iftheactionuptothenhadbeenfast,itwasslowtowhatfollowed.
Itseemedimpossiblefortwostrongmenwithonelasso,andagiant
withanother,tostraightenoutthatlion.Hewasalloverthelittle
spaceunderthetreesatonce.Thedustflew,thestickssnapped,
thegravelpatteredlikeshotagainstthecedars.Jonesploughedthe
groundflatonhisstomach,holdingonwithonehand,withtheother
tryingtofastentheropetosomething;Jimwenttohisknees;andon
theothersideofthelion,Emettshugebulktippedasharpangle,
andthenfell.

Ishoutedandranforward,havingnoideawhattodo,butEmett
rolled
backward,atthesameinstanttheothermengotastronghaulon
thelion.Shortasthatmomentwasinwhichthelassoslackened,it
sufficedforJonestomaketheropefasttoatree.Whereuponwiththe
threemenpullingontheothersideoftheleapinglion,somehowIhad
flashedintomymindthegamethatchildrenplay,calledskippingthe
rope,forthelionandlassoshotupanddown.

Thislastedforonlyafewseconds.Theystretchedthebeastfromtree
totree,andJonesrunningwiththethirdlasso,madefastthefront
paws.

Itsafemale,saidJones,asthelionlayhelpless,hersides
swelling;agoodsizedfemale.Shesnearlyeightfeetfromtipto
tip,butnotveryheavy.Handmeanotherrope.

Whenallfourlassoshadbeenstretched,thelionesscouldnotmove.
Jonesstrappedacollararoundherneckandclippedthesharpyellow
claws.

Nowtomuzzleher,hecontinued.

74
Jonesmethodofperformingthismosthazardouspartofthework
was
characteristicofhim.Hethrustastickbetweenheropenjaws,and
whenshecrushedittosplintershetriedanother,andyetanother,
untilhefoundonethatshecouldnotbreak.Thenwhileshebitonit,
heplacedawireloopoverhernose,slowlytighteningit,leavingthe
stickbackofherbigcanines.

Thehoundsceasedtheiryelpingandwhenuntied,Sounderwagged
his
tailasiftosay,Welldone,andthenlaydown;Donwalkedwithin
threefeetofthelion,asifshewerenowbeneathhisdignity;Jude
begantonurseandlickhersorepaw;onlyMozetheincorrigible
retainedantipathyforthecaptive,andhegrowled,asalways,lowand
deep.Andonthemoment,Ranger,dustyandlamefromtravel,
trotted
wearilyintothegladeand,lookingatthelioness,gaveonedisgusted
barkandfloppeddown.

III

Transportingourcaptivestocampbadefairtomakeuswork.When
Jones,whohadgoneafterthepackhorses,hoveinsightonthesage
flat,itwasplaintousthatwewereinfortrouble.Thebaystallion
wasontherampage.

WhydidntyoufetchtheIndian?growledEmett,wholosthis
temper
whenmattersconcerninghishorseswentwrong.Spreadout,boys,
and
headhimoff.

Wecontrivedtosurroundthestallion,andEmettsucceededingetting
ahalteronhim.

75

Ididntwantthebay,explainedJones,butIcouldntdrivethe
otherswithouthim.WhenItoldthatredskinthatwehadtwolions,
he
ranoffintothewoods,soIhadtocomealone.

ImgoingtoscalptheNavajo,saidJim,complacently.

Theseremarkswereexchangedontheopenridgeattheentranceto
the
thickcedarforest.Thetwolionslayjustwithinitsshadyprecincts.
EmettandI,usingalongpoleinlieuofahorse,hadcarriedTomup
fromtheCanyontowherewehadcapturedthelioness.

Joneshadbroughtapacksaddleandtwopanniers.

WhenEmettessayedtoleadthehorsewhichcarriedthese,theanimal
stoodstraightupandbegantoshowsomeofhisprimaldesert
instincts.Itcertainlywasgoodluckthatweunbuckledthepacksaddle
strapsbeforeheleftthevicinity.Inaboutthreejumpshehad
separatedhimselffromthepanniers,whichwerethenplacedupon
the
backofanotherhorse.Thisone,afinelookingbeast,andamiable
undersurroundingswherehislifeandhealthwereconsideredevena
little,immediatelydisclaimedanyintentionofenteringtheforest.

Theyscentthelions,saidJones.Iwasafraidofit;neverhadbut
onenagthatwouldpacklions.

Maybewecantpackthematall,repliedEmettdubiously.Its
certainlynewtome.

Wevegotto,Jonesasserted;trythesorrel.

Forthefirsttimeinaserviceableandhonorablelife,accordingto

76
Emett,thesorrelbrokehishalterandkickedlikeaplantationmule.

Itsamatteroffright.Trythestallion.Hedoesntlookafraid,
saidJones,whoneverknewwhenhewasbeaten.

EmettgazedatJonesasifhehadnotheardright.

Goahead,trythestallion.Ilikethewayhelooks.

Nowonder!Thebigstallionlookedakingofhorsesjustwhathe
wouldhavebeenifEmetthadnottakenhim,whenacolt,fromhis
wild
desertbrothers.Hescentedthelions,andheheldhisproudheadup,
hisearserect,andhislarge,darkeyesshonefieryandexpressive.

Illtrytoleadhiminandlethimseethelions.Wecantfool
him,saidEmett.

Marcshowednohesitation,noranythingweexpected.Hestood
stifflegged,andlookedasifhewantedtofight.

Hesallright;hellpackthem,declaredJones.

Thepacksaddlebeingstrappedonandthepanniershookedtothe
horns,
JonesandJimliftedTomandshovedhimdownintotheleftpannier
whileEmettheldthehorse.AmadderlionthanTomneverlived.It
was
cruelenoughtobelassoedanddisgraceenoughtobehogtied,as
Jimcalledit,buttobethrustdownintoabagandpackedonahorse
wasaddinginsulttoinjury.Tomfrothedatthemouthandseemed
like
afizzingtorpedoabouttoexplode.Thelionessbeingconsiderably
longerandlarger,waswithdifficultygottenintotheotherpannier,
andherheadandpawshungout.Bothlionskeptgrowlingand

77
snarling.

IlooktoseeMarcboltovertherim,saidEmett,resignedly,as
Jonestookuptheendoftheropehalter.

Nosiree!sangoutthatworthy.Heshelpingusout;hesproudto
showuptheothernags.

Joneswasalwaysassertingstrangetraitsinanimals,andgivingthem
intelligenceandreason.Astothat,manyincidentscomingundermy
observationwhilewithhim,andseenwithhiseyes,mademeincline
to
hisclaims,thefruitofalifetimewithanimals.

Marcpackedthelionstocampinshortorder,and,quotingJones,
withoutturningahair.WesawtheNavajosheadprotrudingfroma
tree.Emettyelledforhim,andJonesandJimhahaedderisively;
whereupontheblackheadvanishedanddidnotreappear.Thenthey
unhookedoneofthepanniersanddumpedoutthelioness.Jones
fastenedherchaintoasmallpinetree,andasshelaypowerlesshe
pulledoutthestickbackofhercanines.Thisallowedthewiremuzzle
tofalloff.Shesignalledthisfreedomwitharoarthatshowedher
healthtobestillunimpaired.Thelastactioninreleasingherfrom
herpainfulbondsJonesperformedwithsleightofhanddexterity.He
slippedtheloopfasteningonepaw,whichloosenedtherope,andina
twinklingletherworkallofherotherpawsfree.Upshesprang,ears
flat,eyesablaze,mouthwide,oncemorecapableofdefense,trueto
herinstinctandhername.

BeforethemenloweredTomfromMarcsbackIsteppedcloserand
put
myfacewithinsixinchesofthelions.Hepromptlyspatonme.Ihad
tosteelmynervetokeepsoclose.ButIwantedtoseeawildlions
eyesatcloserange.Theywereexquisitelybeautiful,theirphysical
propertiesaswonderfulastheirexpression.Greathalfglobesof

78
tawnyamber,streakedwithdelicatewavylinesofblack,surrounding
pupilsofintensepurplefire.Picturesshoneandfadedintheamber
lighttheshaggytippedplateau,thedarkpinesandsmokycanyons,
thegreatdotteddownwardslopes,theyellowcliffsandcrags.Deepin
thoselivepupils,changing,quickeningwithathousandvibrations,
quiveredthesoulofthissavagebeast,thewildestofallwild
Nature,unquenchableloveoflifeandfreedom,flameofdefianceand
hate.

JonesdisposedofTominthesamemannerashehadthelioness,
chaininghimtoanadjoiningsmallpine,whereheleapedand
wrestled.

PresentlyIsawEmettcomingthroughthewoodsleadingand
dragging
theIndian.IfeltsorryfortheNavvy,forIfeltthathisfearwas
notsomuchphysicalasspiritual.Anditseemednowondertome
that
theNavvyshouldhangbackfromthissacrilegioustreatmentofhis
god.Anaturalwisdom,whichIhadincommonwithallhuman
beingswho
considerselfpreservationthefirstlawoflife,deterredmefrom
acquaintingmyaugustcompanionswithmybelief.AtleastIdidnot
wanttobreakupthecamp.

IntheremorselessgraspofEmett,forcedalong,theNavajodragged
hisfeetandheldhisfacesidewise,thoughhisdarkeyesgleamed
atthelions.Terrorpredominatedamongtheexpressionsofhis
countenance.Emettdrewhimwithinfifteenfeetandheldhimthere,
andwithvoice,andgesticulatingofhisfreehand,triedtoshowthe
poorfellowthatthelionswouldnothurthim.

Navvystaredandmutteredtohimself.HereJimhadsomedeviltryin
mind,forheedgedupcloser;butwhatitwasnevertranspired,for
EmettsuddenlypointedtothehorsesandsaidtotheIndian:

79

_Chineago_(feed).

ItappearedwhenNavvyswunghimselfoverMarcsbroadback,that
our
greatstallionhadlaidasidehistransientlynobledispositionand
washimselfagain.MarcproceededtoshowushowtrulyJimhad
spoken:
Shoreheaintnousefortheredskin.BeforetheIndianhadfairly
gottenastride,Marcdroppedhishead,humpedhisshoulders,
brought
hisfeettogetherandbegantobuck.NowtheNavajowasafamous
breakerofwildmustangs,butMarcwasatougherpropositionthan
the
wildestmustangthateverrompedthedesert.Notonlywashe
unusually
vigorous;hewasrobustandheavy,yetexceedinglyactive.Ihadseen
himrolloverinthedustthreetimeseachway,anddoiteasilya
featEmettdeclaredhehadneverseenperformedbyanotherhorse.

Navvybegantobounce.Heshowedhisteethandtwistedhissinewy
handsinthehorsesmane.Marcbegantoactlikeademon;heplowed
theground;apparentlyhebuckedfivefeetstraightup.AstheIndian
hadbouncedhenowbegantoshootintotheair.Herosethelasttime
withhisheelsoverhishead,tothefullextentofhisarms;andon
plungingdownhisholdbroke.Hespunaroundthehorse,thenwent
hurtlingtothegroundsometwentyfeetaway.Hesatup,andseeing
EmettandJoneslaughing,andJimprostratedwithjoy,heshowedhis
whiteteethinasmileandsaid:

Nobuenodam.

IthinkallofusrespectedNavvyforhisgoodhumor,andespecially
whenhewalkeduptoMarc,andwithnoshowofthemeanIndian,
pattedtheglossyneckandthennimblyremounted.Marc,notbeing

80
so
difficulttopleaseasJiminthewayofdiscomfitingtheNavajo,
appearedsatisfiedforthepresent,andtrottedoffdownthehollow,
withthestringofhorsesahead,theirbellsjingling.

Campfiretaskswereanecessarywageinordertoearnthefull
enjoymentandbenefitofthehuntingtrip;andlookingforsometask
withwhichtoturnmyhand,IhelpedJimfeedthehounds.Tofeed
ordinarydogsisamatterofthrowingthemabone;however,ourdogs
werenotordinary.Ittooktimetofeedthem,andaprodigiousamount
ofmeat.Wehadpackedbetweenthreeandfourhundredpoundsof
wildhorsemeat,whichhadbeencutintosmallpiecesandstrungon
thebranchesofascruboaknearcamp.

Don,asbefittedagentlemanandtheleaderofthegreatestpackin
theWest,hadtobefedbyhand.Ibelievehewouldratherhadstarved
thanhavedemeanedhimselfbyfighting.Starvedhecertainlywould
have,ifJimhadthrownmeatindiscriminatelytotheground.Sounder
assertedhisrightsandpreferredlargeportionsatatime.Jude
beggedwithgreatsolemneyesbutwasnoslouchateatingforallher
gentleness.Ranger,becauseofimperfectlydevelopedteethrendering
masticationdifficult,hadtohavehissharecutintoverysmall
pieces.AsforMozewell,greatdogshavetheirfaultsasdogreat
menhenevergotenoughmeat;hewouldfightevenpoorcrippled
Jude,
andstealevenfromthepups;whenhehadgottenallJimwouldgive
him,andallhecouldsnatch,hewouldgrowlawaywithbulging
sides.

Howaboutfeedingthelions?askedEmett.

Theylldrinktonight,repliedJones,butwonteatfordays;then
welltemptthemwithfreshrabbits.

Wemadeaheartymeal,succeedingwhichJonesandIwalked

81
through
thewoodstowardtherim.Ayellowpromontory,hugeand
glistening,
inviteduswestward,andafteradetourofhalfamilewereachedit.
Thepointsoftherim,strikingoutintotheimmensevoid,always
drew
meirresistibly.Wefoundtheviewfromthisrockoneofstartling
splendor.Thecorrugatedrimwallofthemiddlewingextendedtothe
west,atthismomentapparentlyrunningintothesettingsun.The
gold
glaretouchingupthemillionsoffacetsofchiseledstone,created
colorandbrilliancetoogloriousandintenseforthegazeofmen.And
lookingdownwardwaslikelookingintotheplacid,blue,bottomless
depthsofthePacific.

Here,helpmepushoffthisstone,IsaidtoJones.Weheavedahuge
roundstone,andwereencouragedtofeelitmove.Fortunatelywehad
a
littleslope;thebouldergroaned,rockedandbegantoslide.Justas
ittoppledoverIglancedatthesecondhandofmywatch.Thenwith
eyesovertherimwewaited.Thesilencewasthesilenceofthe
canyon,deadandvast,intensifiedbyourbreathlessearstrain.Ten
longpalpitatingsecondsandnosound!Igaveup.Thedistancewas
too
greatforsoundtoreachus.Fifteensecondsseventeeneighteen

Withthatapuffofairseemedtorise,andonitthemostawful
bellowofthunderousroar.Itrolledupandwidened,deadenedto
burst
outandrolllouder,thenslowly,likemountainsonwheels,rumbled
undertherimwalls,passingonandon,toroarbackinechofromthe
cliffsofthemesas.Roarandrumbleroarandrumble!fortwolong
momentsthedullandhollowechoesrolledatus,todieawayslowly
in
thefardistantcanyons.

82

Thatsadarneddeephole,commentedJones.

Twilightstoledownonusidlingthere,silent,contenttowatchthe
redglowpassawayfromthebuttesandpeaks,thecolordeepening
downwardtomeettheebonshadesofnightcreepinguplikeadark
tide.

Onturningtowardthecampweessayedashortcut,whichbrought
usto
adeephollowwithstonywalls,whichseemedbettertogoaround.
The
hollow,however,wasquitelongandwedecidedpresentlytocrossit.
WedescendedalittlewaywhenJonessuddenlybarredmyprogress
with
hisbigarm.

Listen,hewhispered.

Itwasquietinthewoods;onlyafaintbreezestirredthepine
needles;andtheweird,graydarknessseemedtobeapproaching
under
thetrees.

Iheardthepatteroflight,hardhoofsonthescalysidesofthe
hollow.

Deer?Iaskedmycompanioninalowvoice.

Yes;see,hereplied,pointingahead,justrightunderthatbroken
wallofrock;rightthereonthisside;theyregoingdown.

Idescriedgrayobjectsthecoloroftherocks,movingdownlike
shadows.

83
Havetheyscentedus?

Hardly;thebreezeisagainstus.Maybetheyheardusbreakatwig.
Theyvestopped,buttheyarenotlookingourway.NowIwonder

Rattlingofstonessetintomovementbysomequick,sharpaction,an
indistinctcrash,butsudden,asoftheimpactofsoft,heavybodies,
astrangewildsoundprecededinrapidsuccessionviolentbrushings
andthumpingsinthescrubofthehollow.

Lionjumpedadeer,yelledJones.Rightunderoureyes!Comeon!
Hi!Hi!Hi!

Herandowntheinclineyellingalloftheway,andIkeptcloseto
him,addingmyyellstohis,andgrippingmyrevolver.Towardthe
bottomthethicketbarredourprogresssothatwehadtosmash
through
andIcameoutalittleaheadofJones.AndfartherupthehollowI
sawagrayswiftlyboundingobjecttoolongandtoolowforadeer,
andIhurriedlyshotsixtimesatit.

ByGeorge!Comehere,calledmycompanion.Howsthisforquick
work?Itsayearlingdoe.

InanothermomentIleanedoveragraymasshuddledatJonesfeet.It
wasadeergaspingandchoking.Iplainlyheardthewheezeofblood
initsthroat,andthesound,likeadeathrattle,affectedme
powerfully.Bendingcloser,Isawwhereonesideoftheneck,low
down,hadbeenterriblylacerated.

Waahoo!pealeddowntheslope.

ThatsEmett,criedJones,answeringthesignal.Ifyouhave
anothershotputthisdoeoutofagony.

84
ButIhadnotashotleft,nordideitherofushaveaclaspknife.
Westoodtherewhilethedoegaspedandquivered.Thepeculiar
sound,
probablymadebytheintakeofairthroughthelacerationofthe
throat,onthespurofthemomentseemedpitifullyhuman.

Ifeltthatthestruggleforlifeanddeathinanylivingthingwas
ahorriblespectacle.WithgreatinterestIhadstudiednatural
selection,thevariabilityofanimalsunderdifferentconditionsof
strugglingexistence,thelawwherebyoneanimalstruckdownand
devouredanother.ButIhadneverseenandheardthatlawenactedon
suchascale;andsuddenlyIabhorredit.

Emettstrodetousthroughthegatheringdarkness.

Whatsup?heaskedquickly.

HecarriedmyRemingtoninonehandandhisWinchesterinthe
other;
andhemovedsoassuredlyandloomedupsobigintheduskthatI
experiencedasuddenlittlerushoffeelingastowhathisadvent
mightmeanatatimeofrealperil.

Emett,Ivelivedtoseemanythings,repliedJones,butthisis
thefirsttimeIeversawalionjumpadeerrightundermynose!

AsEmettbentovertoseizethelongearsofthedeer,Inoticedthe
gaspinghadceased.

Neckbroken,hesaid,liftingthehead.Well,Imdanged.Musthave
beenanallfiredstronglion.Hellcomeback,youmaybesureof
that.Letsskinoutthequartersandhangthecarcassupinatree!

Wereturnedtocampinahalfanhour,thericherforourwalkbya
quantityoffreshvenison.Uponbeingacquaintedwithouradventure,

85
Jimexpressedhimselfrathermorefairlythanwashiscustomaryway.

Shorethatbeatshell!Iknowedtherewasalionsomewheres,because
Donwouldntliedown.Idliketogetapopatthebrute.

IbelievedJimswishfoundanechoinallourhearts.Atanyrate
tohearEmettandJonesexpressregretoverthedeathofthedoe
justifiedinsomedegreemyownfeelings,andIthoughtitwasnot
somuchthedeath,butthelingeringandterriblemannerofit,and
especiallyhowvividlyitconnotedthewildlifedramaoftheplateau.
Thetragedywehadallbutinterruptedoccurredeverynight,perhaps
ofteninthedayandlikelyatdifferentpointsatthesametime.
Emetttoldhowhehadfoundfourteenpilesofbleachedbonesand
dried
hairinthethicketsoflessthanamileofthehollowonwhichwe
wereencamped.

Wellropethedangedcats,boys,orwellkillthem.

Itsblowingcold.Hey,Navvy,_coco!coco!_calledEmett.

TheIndian,carefullylayingasidehiscigarette,kickedupthefire
andthrewonmorewood.

_Discass!_(cold),hesaidtome._Coco,bueno_(firegood).

Ireplied,Mesavvyyes.

Sleepie?heasked.

Mucha,Ireturned.

WhilewecarriedonasortofnovelconversationfullofNavajo,
English,andgestures,darknesssettleddownblack.Isawthestars
disappear;thewindchangingtothenorthgrewcolderandcarried

86
abreathofsnow.Ilikenorthwindbestfromunderthewarm
blanketsbecauseoftheroarandlullandlullandroarinthepines.
Crawlingintothebedpresently,Ilaythereandlistenedtothe
risingstormwindforalongtime.Sometimesitswelledandcrashed
likethesoundofabreakeronthebeach,butmostly,fromalow
incessantmoan,itroseandfilledtoamightyrush,thensuddenly
lulled.Thislull,despiteawakeful,throngingmind,wasconduciveto
sleep.

IV

Tobeawakedfrompleasantdreamsisthelotofman.TheNavajo
arousedmewithhissinging,andwhenIpeepedlanguidlyfrom
under
theflapofmysleepingbag,Ifeltacoldairandsawfleecyflakes
ofwhitedriftingthroughthesmallwindowofmytent.

Snow;byallthatslucky!Iexclaimed,rememberingJoneshopes.
Straightwaymylangourvanishedandgettingintomybootsandcoat
I
wentoutside.Navvysbedlayinsixinchesofsnow.Theforestwas
beautifullywhite.Afinedazzlingsnowwasfalling.Iwalkedtothe
roaringcampfire.Jimsbiscuits,wellbrownedandofgenerous
size,hadjustbeendumpedintothemiddleofourbreakfastcloth,a
tarpaulinspreadontheground;thecoffeepotsteamedfragrantly,
and
aDutchovensizzledwithagreatnumberofslicesofvenison.Did
youheartheIndianchanting?askedJones,whosatwithhishorny
handstotheblaze.

Iheardhissinging.

No,itwasntasong;theNavajoneversingsinthemorning.What
you

87
heardwashismorningprayer,achant,areligiousandsolemnritual
tothebreakofday.Emettsaysitisacustomofthedeserttribe.
YourememberhowwesawtheMokissittingontheroofsoftheir
little
adobehutsinthegrayofthemorning.Theyalwaysgreetthesunin
thatway.TheNavajoschant.

Itcertainlywasworthremembering,Ithought,andmentally
observed
thatIwouldwakeupthereafterandlistentotheIndian.

Goodluckandbad!wentonJones.Snowiswhatwewant,butnow
we
cantfindthescentofourlionoflastnight.

Lowgrowlsandsnarlsattractedme.Bothourcaptivespresented
sorry
spectacles;theywerewet,dirty,bedraggled.Emetthadchopped
downa
smallpine,thebranchesofwhichhewasusingtomakeshelterforthe
lions.WhileIlookedonTomtorehistopiecesseveraltimes,butthe
lionesscrawledunderhersandbeganlickingherchops.Atlength
Tom,seeingthatEmettmeantnounderhandtrick,backedoutofthe
drizzlingsnowandlaydown.

Emetthadalreadyconstructedashackforthehounds.Itwasawayof
histothinkofeverything.Hehadthemostextraordinaryability.A
strokeofhisaxe,atwistofhisgreathands,aturnofthisorthat
madecampamorecomfortableplace.Andifsomething,nomatter
what,
gotoutoforderorbroken,therewasEmetttoshowwhatitwastobe
amanofthedesert.Ithadbeenmygoodfortunetoseemanyable
menonthetrailandroundthecampfire,butnotoneofthemeven
approachedEmettsclass.WhenIsaidawordtohimabouthisknack
withthings,hisreplywasilluminating:Imfiftyeight,andfour

88
outofeveryfivenightsofmylifeIhavesleptawayfromhomeonthe
ground.

_Chineago!_calledJim,whohadbegunwithallofustoassimilatea
littleoftheNavajoslanguage.

Whereuponwefelltoeatingwithappetiteunknowntoanysave
hunters.
SomehowtheIndianhadgravitatedtomeatmealtimes,andnowhe
sat
crossleggedbesideme,holdingouthisplateandlookingashungry
as
Moze.Atfirsthehadalwaysaskedforthesamekindoffoodthat
Ihappenedtohaveonmyownplate.WhenIhadfinishedandhadno
desiretoeatmore,hegaveuphisfacultyofimitationandaskedfor
anythinghecouldget.TheNavajohadamarvelousappetite.Heliked
sweetthings,sugarbestofall.Itwasafatalerrortolethimget
hishandsonacanoffruit.AlthoughheinspiredJoneswithdisgust
andJimwithworse,hewasasourceofunfailingpleasuretome.He
calledmeMistaGayandhepronouncedthewordshaltinglyinlow
voiceandwithunmistakablerespect.

Whatsonfortoday?queriedEmett.

Iguesswemayaswellhangaroundcampandrestthehounds,
replied
Jones.Ididintendtogoafterthelionthatkilledthedeer,but
thissnowhastakenawaythescent.

Shoreitllstopsnowinsoon,saidJim.

Thefallingsnowhadthinnedoutandlookedlikeflyingpowder;the
leadenclouds,rollingclosetothetreetops,grewbrighterand
brighter;bitsofazureskyshonethroughrifts.

89
Navvyhadtrampedofftofindthehorses,andnotlongafterhis
departurehesentoutaprolongedyellthatechoedthroughtheforest.

Somethingsup,saidEmettinstantly.AnIndianneveryellslike
thatatahorse.

Wewaitedquietlyforamoment,expectingtoheartheyellrepeated.
Itwasnot,thoughwesoonheardthejangleofbells,whichtoldushe
hadthehorsescoming.Heappearedofftotheright,ridingFoxieand
racingtheotherstowardcamp.

Cougiemuchabigdam!hesaidleapingoffthemustangto
confront
us.

Emett,doeshemeanhesawacougaroratrack?questionedJones.

Mesavvy,repliedtheIndian._Butteen,butteen_!

Hesays,trailtrail,putinEmett.IguessIdbettergoand
see.

Illgowithyou,saidJones.Jim,keepthehoundstightandhurry
withthehorsesoats.

Wefollowedthetracksofthehorseswhichleadsouthwesttowardthe
rim,andaquarterofamilefromcampwecrossedaliontrailrunning
atrightangleswithourdirection.

OldSultan!Icried,breathlessly,recognizingthatthetrackshad
beenmadebyagiantlionwehadnamedSultan.Theywerehuge,
round,
anddeep,andwithmyspreadhandIcouldnotreachacrossoneof
them.

90
Withoutaword,Jonesstrodeoffonthetrail.Itheadedeastand
afterashortdistanceturnedtowardcamp.IsupposeJonesknewwhat
thelionhadbeenabout,buttoEmettandmeitwasmystifying.Two
hundredyardsfromcampwecametoafallenpine,thebodyofwhich
waseasilysixfeethigh.Onthesideofthislog,almostontop,were
twoenormousliontracks,imprintedinthemantleofsnow.Fromhere
thetrailledoffnortheast.

Darnme!ejaculatedJones.Thebigcrittercamerightintocamp;he
scentedourlions,andraiseduponthislogtolookover.

Wheeling,hestartedforcamponthetrot.EmettandIkepteven
withhim.Wordsweresuperfluous.Weknewwhatwascoming.A
madetoorderliontrailcouldnothaveequalledtheonerightin
thebackyardofourcamp.

Saddleup!saidJones,withthesharpinflectionofwordsthathad
cometothrillme.Jim,OldSultanhastakenalookatussincebreak
ofday.

Igotintomychaps,rammedmylittleautomaticintoitssaddle
holsterandmounted.Foxieseemedtowanttogo.Thehoundscame
out
oftheirshedsandyawned,lookingatusknowingly.Emettspokea
word
totheNavajo,andthenweweretrottingdownthroughtheforest.The
sunhadbrokenoutwarm,causingwatertodripoffthesnowladen
pines.ThethreeofusrodeclosebehindJones,whospokelowand
sternlytothehounds.

WhatanopportunitytowatchDon!Iwonderedhowsoonhewould
catch
thescentofthetrail.Heledthepackasusualandkepttoa
leisurelydogtrot.Whenwithintwentyyardsofthefallenlog,he
stoppedforaninstantandhelduphishead,thoughwithout

91
exhibiting
anysuspicionoruneasiness.

Thewindblewstrongatourbacks,acircumstancethatprobably
keptDonsolonginignoranceofthetrail.Afewyardsfurtheron,
however,hestoppedandraisedhisfinehead.Helowereditand
trottedononlytostopagain.Hiseasyairofsatisfactionwith
themorningsuddenlyvanished.Hissavagehuntinginstinct
awakened
throughsomechanneltoraisetheshortyellowhaironhisneckand
shouldersandmakeitstandstiff.Hestoodundecidedwithwarily
shiftingnose,thenjumpedforwardwithayelp.Anotherjump
brought
anothersharpcryfromhim.Sounder,closebehind,echoedtheyelp.
Judebegantowhine.ThenDon,withawildhowl,leapedtenfeetto
alightontheliontrailandtobreakintowonderfullyrapidflight.
Thesevenotherhounds,bunchedinablackandyellowgroup,tore
afterhimfillingtheforestwiththeirwilduproar.

EmettshorseboundedasIhaveseenagreatracerleavethepost,and
hisdesertbrothers,lovingwildburstsofspeed,needingnospur,
kepttheirnosesevenwithhisflanks.Thesoftsnow,nottoodeep,
ratherfacilitatedthanimpededthiswildmovement,andtheopen
forestwaslikeahighway.

Sowerode,bendinglowinthesaddle,keeneyesalertforbranches,
vaultingthewhiteblanketedlogs,andswervingaswesplittopass
thepines.Themistfromthemeltingsnowmoistenedourfaces,and
the
rushingaircooledthemwithfresh,softsensation.Therewere
moments
whenwerodeabreastandotherswhenwesailedsinglefile,with
white
groundreceding,vanishingbehindus.

92
Myfeelingwasoneofgloriousexcitationintheswift,smoothflight
andagrimassuranceofsoonseeingtheoldlion.ButIhopedwe
would
notrouthimtoosoonfromunderawindfall,orathicketwherehe
haddraggedadeer,becausetheracewastoosplendidathingtocut
short.Throughmymindwhirledwithinconceivablerapiditythe
great
lionchasesonwhichwehadriddentheyearbefore.Andthiswas
anotherchase,onlymorestirring,morebeautiful,becauseitwasthe
natureofthethingtogrowalwayswithexperience.

Donslippedoutofsightamongthepines.Theothersstrungalongthe
trail,glintedacrossthesunlitpatches.Theblackpupwasneckand
neckwithRanger.Sounderranattheirheels,leadingtheotherpups.
MozedashedondoggedlyaheadofJude.

Butforustokeeptotheopenforest,closetothehounds,wasnotin
thenatureofalionchase.OldSultanstrailturnedduewestwhenhe
begantogodownthelittlehollowsandtheirinterveningridges.We
lostground.Thepackleftusbehind.Theslopeoftheplateaubecame
decided.Werodeoutofthepinestofindthesnowfailinginthe
open.Waterraninlittlegulliesandglistenedonthesagebrush.A
halfmilefurtherdownthesnowhadgone.Wecameuponthehounds
runningatfault,exceptSounder,andhehadgivenup.

Allover,sangoutJones,turninghishorse.Thelionstrackand
hisscenthavegonewiththesnow.Ireckonwelldoaswelltowait
untiltomorrow.Hesdowninthemiddlewingsomewhereanditis
my
ideawemightcatchhistrailashecomesback.

Thesuddendashingasideofourhopeswasexasperating.There
seemed
nohelpforit;abruptendingtoexcitingchaseswerebutfeaturesof
thelionhunt.Thewarmsunhadbeenhoursonthelowerendofthe

93
plateau,wherethesnowneverlaylong;andevenifwefoundafresh
morningtrailinthesand,theheatwouldhaveburnedoutthescent.

Sorapidlydidthesnowthawthatbythetimewereachedcamponly
the
shadypatcheswereleft.

ItwasalmostelevenoclockwhenIlaydownonmybedtorest
awhile
andfellasleep.Thetrampofahorseawakenedme.IheardJimcalling
Jones.ThinkingitwastimetoeatIwentout.Thesnowhadall
disappearedandtheforestwasbrownasever.Jimsatonhishorse
and
Navvyappearedridinguptothehollow,leadingthesaddlehorses.

Jones,getout,calledJim.

Cantyouletafellowsleep?Imnothungry,repliedJonestestily.

Getoutandsaddleup,continuedJim.

Jonesburstoutofhistent,withrumpledhairandsleepyeyes.

Iwentovertoseethecarcassofthedeeranfoundalionsittin
upinthetree,feedinforallhewasworth.Piejumpedoutanran
upthehollowanovertherim.SoIrustledbackforyoufellows.
Livelynow,wellgetthisonesure.

Wasitthebigfellow?Iasked

No,butheaintnokitten;anhesafinecolor,sortofreddish.I
neverseenonejustasbright.WheresEmett?

Idontknow.Hewasherealittlewhileago.ShallIsignalfor
him?

94

Dontyell,criedJonesholdinguphisfingers.Bequietnow.

Withoutanotherwordwefinishedsaddling,mountedand,close
together,withthehoundsinfront,rodethroughtheforesttowardthe
rim.

Werodeindifferentdirectionstowardthehollow,thebetterto
chancemeetingwithEmett,butnoneofuscaughtaglimpseofhim.

Ithappenedthatwhenweheadedintothehollowitwasatapoint
just
abovewherethedeercarcasshunginthescruboak.Doninspiteof
Jonessternyells,letouthiseagerhuntingyelpanddarteddownthe
slope.Thepackboltedafterhimandinlessthantensecondswere
racingupthehollow,theirthrilling,blendingbaysawelcomespurto
action.ThoughIspokenotawordtomymustangnorhadtimeto
raise
thebridle,hewheeledtoonesideandbegantorun.Theotherhorses
alsokepttotheridge,asIcouldtellbythepoundingofhoofson
thesoftturf.Thehoundsinfullcryrightunderusurgedourgood
steedstoaterrificpace.Itwaswellthattheridgeaffordedclear
going.

Thespeedatwhichwetraveled,however,fastasitwas,availednot
tokeepupwiththepack.Inashorthalfmile,justasthehollow
slopedandmergedintolevelground,theyleftusbehindand
disappearedsoquicklyasalmosttofrightenme.Mymustang
plunged
outoftheforesttotherimanddashedalong,apparentlyunmindfulof
thechasm.Theredandyellowsurfaceblurredinablindingglare.I
heardthechorusofhounds,butasitsdirectionbaffledmeItrusted

95
tomyhorseandIdidwell,forsoonhecametoadeadhaltonthe
rim.

ThenIheardthehoundsbelowme.Ihadbuttimetoseethecharacter
oftheplacelong,yellowpromontoriesrunningoutandslopesof
weatheredstonereachingupbetweentoalevelwiththerimwhenin
a
dwarfpinegrowingjustovertheedgeIcaughtsightofalong,red,
pantherishbody.

Iwhoopedtomyfollowersnowcloseuponmeandleapingoffhauled
out
myRemingtonandrantothecliff.Thelionslong,slenderbody,ofa
raregoldenredcolor,bright,clean,blacktippedandwhitebellied,
proclaimeditafemaleofexceedingbeauty.Icouldhavetouchedher
withafishingrodandsawhoweasilyshecouldberopedfromwhere
I
stood.Thetreeinwhichshehadtakenrefugegrewfromtheheadof
aweatheredslopeandroseclosetothewall.Atthatpointitwas
merelyaparapetofcrumblingyellowrock.Nodoubtshehadlain
concealedundertheshelvingwallandhadnothadtimetogetaway
beforethehoundswererightuponher.

Shesgoingtojump,yelledJones,inmyrear,ashedismounted.

Isawagoldenredstreakflashdownward,heardamadmedleyfrom
the
hounds,acloudofdustrose,thensomethingbrightshonefora
second
totherightalongthewall.Iranwithallmymighttoaheadlandof
rockuponwhichIscrambledandsawwithjoythatIcouldcommand
the
situation.

Thelionesswasnotinsight,norwerethehounds.Thelatter,

96
however,werehotonthetrail.Iknewthelionesshadtakento
anothertreeoraholeunderthewall,andwouldsoonberoutedout.
ThistimeIfeltsureshewouldrundownandItookarapidglance
below.Theslopeinclinedatasteepangleandwasonelongslideof
bitsofyellowstonewithmanybunchesofscruboakandmanzanita.
ThoselatterIsawwithsatisfaction,becauseincaseIhadtogodown
theywouldstopthelittleavalanches.Theslopereacheddown
perhaps
fivehundredyardsandendedinathicketandjumbleofrocksfrom
whichroseontherightabareyellowslide.Thisranuptoalow
cliff.Ihopedthelionwouldnotgothatway,foritledtogreat
brokenbattlementsofrim.Leftoftheslidewasapatchofcedars.

Jimsyellpealedout,followedbythefamiliarpenetratinghowlof
thepackwhenitsightedgame.WiththatIsawthelionessleaping
downtheslopeandclosebehindherayellowhound.

Goit,Don,oldboy!Iyelled,wildwithdelight.

AcrushingsteponthestonestoldmeJoneshadarrived.

Hi!Hi!Hi!roaredhe.

Ithoughtthenthatifthelionessdidnotcoverthirtyfeetatevery
jumpIwasnotinaconditiontojudgedistance.Sheranawayfrom
Don
asifhehadbeentiedandreachedthethicketbelowahundredyards
aheadofhim.AndwhenDonleavinghisbravepackfaruptheslide
enteredthethicketthelionesscameoutontheothersideand
bounded
upthebareslopeofyellowshale.

Shootaheadofher!Headheroff!Turnherback!criedJones.

WiththewordIthrewforwardtheRemingtonandletdrive.

97
Following
thebellowoftherifle,soloudinthatthinair,asharp,harsh
reportcrackedupfrombelow.Apuffofyellowdustroseinfrontof
thelioness.Iwasinline,buttoofarahead.Ifiredagain.The
steeljacketedbullethitastoneandspitefullywhinedawayintothe
canyon.Itriedoncemore.ThistimeIstruckclosetothelioness.
Disconcertedbyacloudofdustrisingbeforeherveryeyesshe
wheeledandranback.

WehadforgottenDonandsuddenlyhedartedoutofthethicket,
straightuptheslide.Always,ineverychase,wewereafraidthe
greathoundwouldruntomeethisdeath.Weknewitwascoming
sometime.Whenthelionesssawhimandstopped,bothJonesandI
felt
thatthiswastobetheendofDon.

Shoother!Shoother!criedJones.Shellkillhim!Shellkill
him!

AsIkneltontherockIhadahardcontractionofmythroat,and
thenallmymusclessettightandrigid.Ipulledthetriggerofmy
automaticonce,twice.Itwaswonderfulhowcloselythetwobullets
followedeachother,aswecouldtellbythealmostsimultaneous
puffsofdustrisingfromunderthebeastsnose.Shemusthavebeen
showeredandstungwithgravel,forsheboundedofftotheleftand
disappearedinthecedars.Ihadmissed,buttheshotshadservedtoa
betterendthanifIhadkilledher.

AsDonracedupthegroundwhereamomentbeforeabattleand
probably
deathhadawaitedhim,theotherhoundsburstfromthethicket.With
that,agoldenformseemedtostandoutfromthegreenofthecedar,
tomoveandtorise.

Shestreed!Shestreed!shoutedJones.Godownandkeepherthere

98
whileIfollow.

FromthebackofthepromontorywhereImetthemainwall,Ilet
myselfdownaniche,foothereandthere,ahandhardonthesoft
stone,bracedkneeandbackuntilIjumpedtotheedgeoftheslope.
Thescruboakandmanzanitasavedmemanyafall.Isetsomestones
rollingandIbeatthemtothebottom.Havingpassedthethicket,I
bentmyeffortstotheyellowslideandwhenIhadsurmounteditmy
breathcameinlaboredpants.Thehowlingofthehoundsguidedme
throughthecedars.

FirstIsawMozeinthebranchesofcedarandabovehimthelioness.I
ranoutintoalittleopenpatchofstonygroundattheendofwhich
thetreestoodleaningoveraprecipice.Intruththelionesswas
swayingoverachasm.

ThosedetailsIgraspedinaglance,thensuddenlyawoketothefact
thatthelionesswassavagelysnarlingatMoze.

Moze!Moze!Getdown!Iyelled.

Heclimbedonserenely.Hewasamostexasperatingdog.Iscreamed
at
himandhithimwitharockbigenoughtobreakhisbones.Hekept
on
climbing.Herewasapredicament.Mozewouldsurelygettothe
lioness
ifIdidnotstophim,andthisseemedimpossible.Itwasoutofthe
questionformetoclimbafterhim.Andifthelionessjumpedshe
wouldhavetopassmeorcomestraightatme.SoIslippeddownthe
safetycatchonmyautomaticandstoodreadytosaveMozeormyself.

Thelionesswithashowoffurythatstartledme,descendedher
branch
afewsteps,andreachingbelowgaveMozeasoundingsmackwith

99
her
bigpaw.Thehounddroppedasifhehadbeenshotandhitthe
ground
withathud.Whereuponshereturnedtoherperch.

ThisreassuredmeandIranamongthedogsandcaughtMozealready
startingforthetreeagainandtiedhim,withastrapIalwayscarried,
toasmallbushnearby.Iheardtheyellsofmycompanions
andlookingbackoverthetopsofthecedarsIsawJimridingdown
and
highertotheleftJonessliding,falling,runningatagreatrate.I
encouragedthemtokeepupthegoodwork,andthengavemy
attentionto
thelioness.

Sheregardedmewithacold,savagestareandshowedherteeth.I
repaidthisincivilityonherpartbypromptlyphotographingherfrom
differentpoints.

JonesandJimwereonthespotbeforeIexpectedthemandbothwere
dustyanddrippingwithsweat.Ifoundtomysurprisethatmyface
was
wetaswasalsomyshirt.Jonescarriedtwolassos,andmycanteen,
whichIhadleftonthepromontory.

Aintsheabeauty?hepanted,wipinghisface.WaittillIgetmy
breath.

Whenfinallyhewalkedtowardthecedarthelionessstoodupand
growledasifsherealizedtheentranceofthechiefactoruponthe
scene.Jonescasthislassoapparentlytotryherout,andthenoose
spreadoutandfelloverherhead.Ashetightenedtheropethe
lionessbackeddownbehindabranch.

Tiethedogs!yelledJones.

100

Quick!addedJim.Shesgointojump.

Jimhadonlytimetoaidmeinrunningmylassounderthecollarof
Don,Sounder,Judeandoneofthepups.Imadethemfasttoacedar.
IgotmyhandsonRangerjustasMozebrokehisstrap.Igrabbedhis
collarandheldon.

Righttherewaswheretroublecommencedforme.Rangertussled
valiantly
andMozepulledmeallovertheplace.BehindmeIheardJonesroar
and
Jimsyell;thebreakingofbranches,thehowlingoftheotherdogs.
Rangerbrokeawayfrommeandsoenabledmetogetmyotherhand
onthe
neckofcrazyMoze.OnmorethanoneoccasionIhadtriedtohold
him
andhadfailed;thistimeIsworeIwoulddoitifherolledme
overtheprecipice.Astothat,onlyabushsavedme.

Moreandlouderroarsandyells,hoarserhowlsandsharper
wrestling,snappingsoundstoldmewhatwasgoingonwhileItried
to
subdueMoze.IhadagrimthoughtthatIwouldjustasliefhavehad
holdofthelioness.Thehoundpresentlystoppedhisplungingwhich
gave
meanopportunitytolookabout.Thelittlespacewassmokywitha
smoke
ofdust.Isawthelionessstretchedoutwithonelassoaroundabush
andanotheraroundacedarwiththeendinthehandsofJim.He
looked
asifhehadduguptheground.WhilehetiedthislassosecurelyJones
proceededtoropethedangerousfrontpaws.

ThehoundsquieteddownandItookadvantageofthisabsenceof

101
tumult
togetridofMoze.

Prettylively,saidJones,spittinggravelasIwalkedup.Sandand
dustlaythickinhisbeardandblackenedhisface.Itellyoushe
madeusroot.

Eitherthelionesshadbeenmuchweakenedorchoked,orJoneshad
unusualluck,forwemuzzledherandtiedupherpawsinshortorder.

WheresRanger?Iaskedsuddenly,missinghimfromthepanting
hounds.

Igrabbedhimbytheheelswhenhetackledthelion,andIgavehima
slingsomewheres,repliedJim.

Rangerputinanappearancethenunderthecedarslimpingpainfully.

Jim,darnme,ifIdontbelieveyoupitchedhimovertheprecipice!
saidJones.

Examinationprovedthissurmisetobecorrect.WesawwhereRanger
had
slippedoveratwentyfootwall.Ifhehadgoneoverjustunderthe
cedarwherethedepthwasmuchgreaterhewouldneverhavecome
back.

Thehoundsarechokingwithdustandheat,Isaid.WhenIpoured
justalittlewaterfrommycanteenintothecrownofmyhat,the
houndsbeganfightingaroundandovermeandspilledthewater.

Behave,youcoyotes!Iyelled.Eithertheywereinsultedorfully
realizedtheexigencyofthesituation,foreachonecameupand
gratefullylappedeverydropofhisportion.

102
Shore,nowcomesthehellofit,saidJimappearingwithalong
pole.Packinthecritterout.

Anargumentaroseinregardtothebestwayuptheslope,andby
virtueofamajoritywedecidedtotrythedirectionJimandIthought
best.Mycompanionsledtheway,carryingthelionesssuspendedon
the
pole.Ibroughtuptherear,packingmyrifle,camera,lasso,canteen
andachain.

Itwaskillingwork.Wehadtoresteveryfewsteps.Oftenwewould
fall.Jimlaughed,Jonesswore,andIgroaned.SometimesIhadtodrop
mythingstohelpmycompanions.Sowetoiledwearilyuptheloose,
steepway.

Whatssheshakinlikethatfor?askedJimsuddenly.

Jonesletdownhisendofthepoleandturnedquickly.Littletremors
quiveredoverthelissomebodyofthelioness.

Shesdying,criedJim,jerkingoutthestickbetweenherteethand
slippingoffthewiremuzzle.

Hermouthopenedandherfrothytonguelolledout.Jonespointedto
herquiveringsidesandthenraisedhereyelids.Wesawtheeyes
alreadyglazing,solemnlyfixed.

Shesgone,hesaid.

Verysoonshelayinertandlifeless.Thenwesatbesideherwithout
aword,andwecouldhardlyforthemomenthavebeenmorestunned
and
heartbrokenifithadbeenthetragicdeathofoneofourkind.
Inthatwildenvironment,obsessedbythedesiretocapturethose
beautifulcatsalive,thefatefulendingofthesuccessfulchasewas

103
feltoutofallproportion.

Shoreshesdead,saidJim.Andwasntsheabeauty?Whatwas
wrong?

Theheatandlackofwater,repliedJones.Shechoked.Whatidiots
wewere!Whydidntwethinktogiveheradrink.

Sowepassionatelyprotestedagainstourwantofforethought,and
lookedagainandagainwiththehopethatshemightcometo.But
death
hadstilledthewildheart.Wegaveuppresently,stilldidnotmove
on.Wewereexhausted,andallthewhilethehoundslaypantingon
the
rocks,thebeeshummed,thefliesbuzzed.Theredcolorsoftheupper
wallsandthepurpleshadesofthelowerdarkenedsilently.

VI

Shorewecantsethereallnight,saidJim.Letsskinthelion
anfeedthehounds.

Themostastonishingthinginoureventfuldaywastheamountof
meat
stowedawaybythedogs.Lionfleshappealedtotheirappetites.If
hungryMozehadanounceofmeat,hehadtenpounds.Itseemeda
good
opportunitytoseehowmuchtheoldgladiatorcouldeat;andJimand
I
cutchunksofmeatasfastaspossible.Mozegulpedthemwith
absolute
unconcernofsuchathingasmastication.Atlengthhereachedhis
limit,possiblyforthefirsttimeinhislife,andlookinglongingly
atajuicyredstripJimheldout,herefuseditwithmanifestshame.

104
Thenhewobbledandfelldown.

Wecalledtohimaswestartedtoclimbtheslope,buthedidnot
come.Thenthebusinessofconqueringthatascentofslidingstone
absorbedallourfacultiesandstrength.Littleheadwaycouldwehave
madehaditnotbeenforthebrush.Wetoiledupafewfeetonlyto
slidebackandsoitwentonuntilwewerewearyoflife.

Whenonebyoneweatlastgainedtherimandsattheretorecover
breath,thesunwasahalfglobeoffireburningoverthewestern
ramparts.Aredsunsetbathedthecanyonincrimson,paintingthe
walls,tintingtheshadowstoresembledroppingmistsofblood.Itwas
beautifulandenthrallingtomyeyes,butIturnedawaybecauseit
worethemantleoftragedy.

Dispiritedandwornout,wetroopedintocamptofindEmettanda
steamingsupper.Betweenbitesthethreeofusrelatedthestoryof
theredlioness.Emettwhistledlongandlowandthenexpressedhis
regretinnolightterms.

Ropingwildsteersandmustangsisplaytothiswork,hesaidin
conclusion.

Iwastootiredtoteaseourcaptivelionsthatevening;eventhe
glowingcampfiretemptedmeinvain,andIcrawledintomybed
with
eyesalreadygluedshut.

Aheavyweightonmyfeetstirredmefromoblivion.Atfirst,when
onlyhalfawake,Icouldnotrealizewhathadfallenonmybed,then
hearingadeepgroanIknewMozehadcomeback.Iwasdroppingoff
againwhenastrange,lowsoundcausedmyeyestoopenwide.The
black
nighthadfadedtothegrayofdawn.ThesoundIrecognizedatonce
tobetheNavajosmorningchant.Ilaythereandlistened.Softand

105
monotonous,wildandswelling,butalwayslowandstrange,the
savage
songtothebreakofdaywasexquisitelybeautifulandharmonious.I
wonderedwhattheliteralmeaningofhiswordscouldhavebeen.The
significanceneedednotranslation.Totheblackshadowsfadingaway,
tothebrighteningofthegraylight,totheglowoftheeast,tothe
morningsun,totheGiverofLifetothesetheIndianchantedhis
prayer.

Couldtherehavebeenabetterprayer?Paganornot,theNavajowith
hisforefathersfeltthespiritualpowerofthetrees,therocks,the
lightandsun,andheprayedtothatwhichwasdivinelyhelpfulto
him
inallthemysteryofhisunintelligiblelife.

Wedidnotcrawloutthatmorningasearlyasusual,foritwastobe
adayofrest.Whenwedid,amootedquestionarosewhetherweor
the
houndswerethemorecrippled.Rangerdidnotshowhimself;Don
could
justwalkandthatwasall;Mozewaseithertoofullortootiredto
move;SoundernursedafootandJudefavoredherlameleg.

Afterlunchwebrightenedupsomewhatandsetourselvesdifferent
tasks.Joneshadmisplacedorlosthiswireandbegantoturnthecamp
topsyturvyinhisimpatienteffortstolocateit.Thewire,however,
wasnottobefound.Thiswasacalamity,for,asweaskedeachother,
howcouldwemuzzlelionswithoutwire?Moreover,ahalfdozen
heavy
leatherstrapswhichIhadboughtinKanabforuseaslioncollarshad
disappeared.Wehadonlyonecollarleft,theonethatJoneshadput
ontheredlioness.

Whereuponwebegantoblameeachother,toargue,togrowheated
and

106
naturallyfromthattobecomeangry.Itseemsafatalityofcampers
alongawildtrail,likeexplorersinanunknownland,tobeproneto
fight.Ifthereisanexplanationofthissingularfact,itmustbe
thatmenatsuchtimelosetheirpoiseandveneerofcivilization;in
brief,theygoback.Atalleventswehadithotandheavy,withthe
centerofattackgraduallyfocusingonJones,andashewasalways
losingsomething,naturallyweunitedinforceagainsthim.

Fortunately,wewereinterruptedbyyellsfromtheNavajooffinthe
woods.Thebrushingofbranchesandpoundingofhoofsprecededhis
appearance.Insomeremarkablemannerhehadgottenabridleon
Marc,
andfromthewaythebigstallionhurledhishugebulkoverlogsand
throughthickets,itappearedevidenthemeanttousurpJims
ambition
andkilltheNavajo.HearingEmettyell,theIndianturnedMarc
toward
camp.Thehorsesloweddownwhenhenearedthegladeandtriedto
buck.ButNavvykepthisheadup.WiththatMarcseemedtogive
wayto
ungovernablerageandplungedrightthroughcamp;heknockedover
the
dogsshelterandthundereddowntheridge.

NowtheNavajo,withthebridleinhishandwasthoroughlyathome.
He
wasgettinghisrevengeonMarc,andhewouldhavekepthisseaton
a
wildmustang,butMarcswervedsuddenlyunderalowbranchofa
pine,
sweepingtheIndianoff.

WhenNavvydidnotrisewebegantofearhehadbeenseriouslyhurt,
perhapskilled,andwerantowherehelay.

107
Facedownward,handsoutstretched,withnomovementofbodyor
muscle,
hecertainlyappeareddead.

Badlyhurt,saidEmett,probablybackbroken.Ihaveseenitbefore
fromjustsuchaccidents.

Ohno!criedJones,andIfeltsodeeplyIcouldnotspeak.Jim,who
alwayswantedNavvytobeadeadIndian,lookedprofoundlysorry.

HesadeadIndian,allright,repliedEmett.

Werosefromourstoopingposturesandstoodaround,uncertainand
deeplygrieved,untilamournfulgroanfromNavvyaffordedusmuch
relief.

ThatsyourdeadIndian,exclaimedJones.

EmettstoopedagainandfelttheIndiansbackandgotinreward
anothermournfulgroan.

Itshisback,saidEmett,andtruetohisrulingpassion,forever
toministertotheneedsofhorses,men,andthings,hebegantorub
theIndianandcallfortheliniment.

Jimwenttofetchit,whileI,stillbelievingtheNavvytobe
dangerouslyhurt,kneltbyhimandpulleduphisshirt,exposingthe
hollowofhisbrownback.

Hereweare,saidJim,returningontherunwiththebottle.

Poursomeon,repliedEmett.

JimremovedthecorkandsousedthelinimentallovertheIndians
back.

108

Dontwasteit,remonstratedEmett,startingtorubNavvysback.

Thenoccurredamostextraordinarything.Aconvulsionseemedto
quiverthroughtheIndiansbody;heroseatasingleleap,and
utteringawild,piercingyellbrokeintoarun.IneversawanIndian
oranybodyelserunsofleetly.Yellafteryellpealedbacktous.

Absolutelydumfoundedweallgazedateachother.

ThatsyourdeadIndian!ejaculatedJim.

Whatthehell!exclaimedEmett,whoseldomusedsuchlanguage.

Lookhere!criedJones,grabbingthebottle.See!Dontyousee
it?

Jimfellfacedownwardandbegantoshake.

What?shoutedEmettandItogether.

Turpentine,youidiots!Turpentine!Jimbroughtthewrongbottle!

Inanothersecondthreemoreformslaystretchedoutonthesward,
and
theforestrangwithsoundsofmirth.

VII

Thatnightthewindswitchedandblewcoldfromthenorth,andso
strongthatthecampfireroaredlikeafurnace.Moresnowwasthe
verdictofallofus,andinviewofthis,IinvitedtheNavajoto
sharemytent.

109
Sleepieme,Isaidtohim.

Mesavvy,herepliedandforthwithproceededtomakehisbedwith
me.

Muchtomysurpriseallmycomradesraisedprotestations,which
struckmeasbeingsingularlyselfishconsideringtheywouldnotbe
inconveniencedinanyway.

Whynot?Iasked.Itsacoldnight.Therellbefrostifnot
snow.

Shoreyoullgetem,saidJim.

ThereneverwasanIndianthatdidnthaveem,addedJones.

What?Iquestioned.

Theymademysterioussignsthatratheraugmentedmyignoranceas
to
whatImightgetfromtheIndian,butinnowisechangedmymind.
When
IwenttobedIhadtocrawloverNavvy.Mozelayatmyfeetasusual
andhegrowledsodeepthatIcouldnotbutthinkhe,too,resented
theadditiontomysmalltent.

MistaGay!cameintheIndianslowvoice.

WellNavvy?Iasked.

Sleepiesleepie?

Yes,Navvy,sleepyandtired.Areyou?

Mesavvymuchasleepiemuchanobueno.

110

Ididnotwonderathisfeelingsleepy,tiredandbad.Hedidnot
awakenmeinthemorning,forwhenmyeyesunclosedthetentwas
light
andhehadgone.Ifoundmycompanionsupanddoing.

Wehadbreakfastandgotintooursaddlesbythetimethesun,ared
balllowdownamongthepines,begantobrightenandturntogold.
No
snowhadfallenbutathickfrostencrustedtheground.Thehounds,
wearingclothmoccasins,whichplainlytheydetested,trottedin
front.Donshowednoeffectsofhisgreatrundowntheslidingslope
aftertheredlioness;itwasoneofhisremarkablequalitiesthathe
recuperatedsoquickly.Rangerwasalittlestiff,andSounderfavored
hisinjuredfoot.Theotherswereasusual.

Jonesleddownthebighollowtowhichhekeptafterwehadpassed
the
edgeofthepines;thenmarkingaherdofdeerahead,heturnedhis
horseupthebank.

Webreastedtheridgeandjoggedtowardthecedarforest,whichwe
enteredwithouthavingseenthehoundsshowinterestinanything.
Underthecedarsinthesoftyellowdustwecrossedliontracks,many
ofthem,buttoooldtocarryascent.EvenNorthHollowwithits
regularbeatenrunwayfailedtowinamurmurfromthepack.

Spreadout,saidJones,andlookfortracks.Illkeepthecenter
andholdinthehounds.

Signallingoccasionallytooneanotherwecrossedalmostthebreadth
ofthecedarforesttoitswesternend,wheretheopensageflats
inclinedtotherim.InoneofthoseflatsIcameuponabrokensage
bush,thegrassbeingthickthereabout.Idiscoverednotrackbut
dismountedandscrutinizedthesurroundingscarefully.Aheavy

111
body
hadbeendraggedacrossthesage,crushingit.Theendsofbroken
bushesweregreen,theleavesshowedbruises.

IbegantofeellikeDonwhenhescentedgame.LeadingmymustangI
slowlyproceededacrosstheopen,guidedbyanoccasionaldown
trodden
bushortuftofgrass.AsInearedthecedarsagainFoxiesnorted.
UnderthefirsttreeIfoundaghastlybunchofredbones,aspreadof
grayishhairsandasplitskull.Thebones,wereyetwet;twolongdoe
earswerestillwarm.ThenIsawbigliontracksinthedustandeven
awellpressedimprintofalionsbodywherehehadrolledorlain.

ThetwoyellsIsentringingintotheforestwereproductiveof
interestingresults.Answerscamefromnearandfar.Then,whatwith
mycallingandthereplies,theforestrangsosteadilywithshrill
criesthattheechoeshadnochancetofollow.

Anelephantinthejunglecouldnothavecausedmorecrashingand
breakingofbrushthandidEmettashemadehiswaytome.He
arrived
fromtheforestjustasJimgallopedacrosstheflat.MutelyIheldup
thetwolongears.

Getonyourhorse!criedJimafteronequickglanceatthespreadof
bonesandhair.

Itwaswellhesaidthat,forImighthavebeenleftbehind.Iranto
Foxieandvaulteduponhim.Aflashofyellowappearedamongthe
sage
andastringofyelpssplittheair.

ItsDon!yelledJim.

Wellweknewthat.Whatasighttoseehimrunningstraightforus!

112
He
passed,asavageyellowwolfinhisferocity,anddisappearedlikea
gleamunderthegloomycedars.

Wespurredafterhim.Theotherhoundsspedby.Jonesclosedinon
us
fromtheleft,andinafewminuteswewerestrungoutbehindEmett,
fightingthebranches,dodgingandswerving,huggingthesaddle,and
alwayssendingoutoursharpyells.

Theracewasfuriousbutshort.Thethreeofuscominguptogether
foundEmettdismountedontheextremeendofWestPoint.

Thehoundshavegonedown,hesaid,pointingtotherunway.

Wealllistenedtothemeaningbays.

Shoretheyvegothimup!assertedJim.Likeasnottheyfoundhim
undertherimhere,sleepingoffhisgorge.Nowfellows,Illgodown.
Itmightbeagoodideaforyoutospreadalongtherim.

Withthatweturnedourhorseseastwardandrodeasclosetotherim
aspossible.Clumpsofcedarsanddeepfissuresoftenforcedusto
circlethem.Thehounds,travelingunderthewallsbelow,keptpace
withusandthenforgedahead,whichfactcausedJonestodispatch
EmettonthegallopforthenextrunwayatNorthHollow.

SoonJonesbademedismountandmakemywayoutupononeofthe
promontories,whileherodealittlefartheron.AsItiedmymustang
Iheardthehounds,faintandfarbeneath.Iwadedthroughthesage
andcedartotherim.

Capeaftercapejuttedoutovertheabyss.Somewereverysharpand
bare,otherscoveredwithcedar;sometotteringcragswitha
crumbling

113
bridgeleadingtotheirrims;andsomerandownlikegiantsteps.
From
oneoftheseIwatchedbelow.Theslopehereunderthewallwaslike
thesideofaruggedmountain.Somewheredownamongthedark
patches
ofcedarandthegreatblocksofstonethehoundswerehuntingthe
lion,butIcouldnotseeoneofthem.

ThepromontoryIhadchosenhadasplit,andchokedasthiswaswith
brush,rock,andshale,itseemedaplacewhereImightclimbdown.
Oncestarted,Icouldnotturnback,andsliding,clingingtowhat
afforded,Iworkeddownthecrack.Awallofstonehidtheskyfrom
mepartoftheway.Icameoutahundredfeetbelowuponasecond
promontoryofhugeslabsofyellowstone.OvertheseIclambered,to
sitwithmyfeetswingingoverthelastone.

Straightbeforemygazeyawnedtheawfulexpanseofthecanyon.In
the
softmorninglighttheredmesas,theyellowwalls,theblackdomes
werelessharshthaninthefullnoondaysun,purerthaninthetender
shadowoftwilight.Belowmewereslopesandslidesdividedby
ravines
fullofstonesaslargeashouses,withhereandtherealonesome
leaningcrag,givingirresistibleproofofthedownwardtrend,ofthe
rolling,weatheringruinsoftherim.Abovethewallbulgedoutfull
offissures,raggedandrottenshelves,topplingcolumnsofyellow
limestone,beadedwithquartzandcoloredbywildflowers
wonderfully
growingincrannies.

Wildandrareaswasthisenvironment,Igaveitbutaglanceanda
thought.Thebayofthehoundscausedmetobendsharpandeager
eyes
totheopenspacesofstoneandslidebelow.Luckwasmineasusual;
thehoundswereworkinguptowardme.HowIstrainedmysight!

114
Hearing
asinglecryIlookedeastwardtoseeJonessilhouettedagainstthe
blueonablackpromontory.Heseemedagiantprimevalman
overlooking
theruinofaformerworld.Isignalledhimtomakeformypoint.

BlackRangerhoveinsightatthetopofayellowslide.Hewasat
faultbuthuntinghard.JudeandSounderbayedofftohisleft.I
heardDonsclearvoice,permeatingthethin,coolair,seemingly
toleaveaqualityofwildnessuponit;yetIcouldnotlocatehim.
Rangerdisappeared.ThenforatimeIonlyheardJim.Mozewasnext
to
appearandhe,too,wasupwardbound.Ajumbleofstonehidhim,
and
thenRangeragainshowed.Evidentlyhewantedtogetaroundthe
bottom
ofalowcrag,forhejumpedandjumpedonlytofallback.

Quitenaturallymyeyessearchedthatcrag.Stretchedoutuponthe
top
ofitwasthelong,slenderbodyofalion.

Hi!hi!hi!hi!hi!Iyelledtillmylungsfailedme.

Whereareyou?camefromabove.

Here!Here!IcriedseeingJonesontherim.Comedown.Climb
down
thecrack.Thelionishere;ontopofthatroundcrag.Hesfooled
thehoundsandtheycantfindhim.

Iseehim!Iseehim!yelledJones.Thenheroaredoutasinglecall
forEmettthatpealedlikeaclearclarionalongthecurvedbrokenrim
wall,openingupechoeswhichclappedlikethunder.

115
WhileJonesclattereddownIturnedagaintothelion.Helaywith
headhiddenunderalittleshelfandhemovednotamuscle.Whata
placeforhimtochoose!Butformyaccidentalventuringdownthe
brokenfragmentsandstepsoftherimhecouldhaveremainedsafe
from
pursuit.

Suddenly,rightundermyfeet,Donopenedhisstringofyelps.Icould
notseehimbutdecidedhemustbeabovetheliononthecrag.I
leanedoverasfarasIdared.Atthatmomentamongthevariedand
thrillingsoundsaboutmeIbecamevaguelyawareofhard,panting
breaths,likecoughssomewhereinmyvicinity.AsJoneshadsetin
motionbushelsofstoneandhadalreadyscrapedhisfeetoverthe
rocksbehindmeIthoughttheforcedrespirationcamefromhim.
When
Iturnedhewasyetfarofftoofarformetohearhimbreathe.I
thoughtthiscircumstancestrangebutstraightwayforgotit.

OnthemomentfrommyrightsomewhereDonpealedouthisbugle
blast,
andimmediatelyafterSounderandJudejoininghim,sentupthe
thrice
welcomenewsofatreedlion.

Thereretwo!Thereretwo!IyelledtoJones,nowworkingdownto
myright.

Hestreeddownhere.Ivegothimspotted!repliedJones.Youstay
thereandwatchyourlion.YellforEmett.

SignalaftersignalforEmettearnednoresponse,thoughJimfarbelow
totheleftsentmeananswer.

Thenextfewminutes,ormorelikelyhalfanhour,passedwithJones
andmeseparatedfromeachotherbyawallofbrokenstone,waiting

116
impatientlyforJimandEmett,whilethehoundsbayedonelionandI
watchedtheother.

Calmnesswasimpossibleundersuchcircumstances.Nomancould
have
gazedintothatmarvelofcoloranddistance,withwildlifeabout
him,withwildsoundsringinginhisears,withoutyieldingtothe
throbandraceofhiswildblood.

Emettdidnotcome.Jimhadnotansweredayellforminutes.No
doubt
heneededhisbreath.Hecameintosightjusttotheleftofour
position,andherandownonesideoftheravinetotoiluptheother.
Ihailedhim,Joneshailedhimandthehoundshailedhim.

SteertoyourleftJim!Icalled..Theresaliononthatcrag
aboveyou.Hemightjump.RoundtheclifftotheleftJonesis
there!

Themostpainfultaskitwasformetositthereandlistentothe
soundrisingfrombelowwithoutbeingabletoseewhathappened.
My
lionhadpeepeduponce,and,seeingme,hadcrouchedclosertohis
crag,evidentlybelievinghewasunseen,whichobviouslymadeit
imperativeformetokeepmyseatandholdhimthereaslongas
possible.

Buttohearthevariousexclamationsthrilledmeenough.

HyarMozegetoutofthat.Catchhimholdhim!Damntheserotten
limbs.HandmeapoleJones,backdownbackdown!hescomin
Hi!
Hi!Whoop!Booo!Therenowyouvegothim!No,no;itslipped!
Now!
Lookout,Jim,fromunderhesgoingtojump!

117

Asmashingandrattlingofloosestonesandafieryburstofyelps
withtrumpetlikeyellsfollowedcloseuponJoneslastwords.Then
twoyellowstreaksleapeddowntheravine.Thefirstwasthelion,the
secondwasDon.Therestofthepackcametumblinghelterskelterin
theirwake.FollowingthemracedJiminlongkangarooleaps,with
Jonesintherear,runningforallhewasworth.Theanimated
andmusicalprocessionpassedupoutoftheravineandgradually
lengthenedastheliongainedandJoneslost,tillitpassed
altogetherfrommyjealoussight.

Ontheothersideoftheridgeofcedarsthehoundstreedtheirquarry
again,aswaseasytotellbytheirchangefromsharpintermittent
yelpingtoanunbroken,full,deepchorus.Thenpresentlyallquieted
down,andforlongmomentsatatimethestillsilenceenfoldedthe
slope.Shoutsnowandthenfloateduponthewindandanoccasional
bark.

Isatthereforanhourbymywatch,thoughitseemedonlyafew
minutes,andallthattimemylionlaycrouchedonhiscragandnever
moved.

Ilookedacrossthecurveofthecanyontothepurplebreaksofthe
SiwashandtheshaggysideofBuckskinMountainandfarbeyondto
whereKanabCanyonopeneditsdarkmouth,andfartherstilltothe
PinkCliffsofUtah,weirdanddiminthedistance.

SomethingswelledwithinmybreastatthethoughtthatforthetimeI
waspartofthatwildscene.Theeyeofaneaglesoaringabovewould
haveplacedmeaswellasmylionamongthefewlivingthingsinthe
rangeofhisallcompassingvision.Therefore,allwasmine,not
merelythelionforhewasonlythemeanstoanendbutthe
stupendous,unnameablethingbeneathme,thischasmthathid
mountains
intheshadesofitscliffs,andthegranitetombs,somegleaming

118
pale,passionless,othersredandwarm,paintedbyamasterhand;and
thewindcaves,darkportaledundertheirmistcurtains,andall
thatwasdeepandfaroff,unapproachable,unattainable,ofbeauty
exceeding,dressedineverchanginghues,wasminebyrightof
presence,byrightoftheeyetoseeandthemindtokeep.

Waahoo!

Thecrylifteditselfoutofthedepths.IsawJonesontheridgeof
cedars.

Allrightherehaveyoukeptyourlinethere?heyelled.

Allswellcomealong,comealong,Ireplied.

Iwatchedthemcoming,andallthewhilemylionnevermoved.The
houndsreachedthebaseofthecliffunderme,buttheycouldnot
findthelion,thoughtheyscentedhim,fortheykeptupacontinual
baying.Jimgotuptotheshelfundermeandsaidtheyhadtiedupthe
lionandlefthimbelow.Jonestoiledslowlyuptheslope.

Someoneoughttostaydownthere;hemightjump,Icalledin
warning.

Thatcragisfortyfeethighonthisside,hereplied.

Iclamberedbackovertheunevenmass,letmyselfdownbetweenthe
bouldersandcrawledunderadarkridge,andfinallywithJim
catching
myrifleandcameraandthenlendinghisshoulders,Ireachedthe
benchbelow.Jonescamepuffingaroundacornerofthecliff,andsoon
allthreeofuswiththehoundsstoodoutontherockyshelfwithonly
anarrowspacebetweenusandthecrouchinglion.

Beforewehadamomenttospeak,muchlessformaplanofattack,the

119
lionrose,spatatusdefiantly,anddeliberatelyjumpedoffthecrag.
Weheardhimstrikewithafrightfulthud.

Surpriseheldusdumb.Totaketheleaptotheslopebelowseemed
beyondanybeastnotendowedwithwings.Wesawthelion
boundingdown
theidenticaltrailwhichtheotherlionhadtaken.Jonescameoutof
hismomentaryindecision.

Holdthedogs!Callthemback!heyelledhoarsely.Theyllkillthe
lionwetied!Theyllkillhim!

Thehoundshadscatteredoffthebenchhereandthere,everywhere,to
cometogetheronthetrailbelow.Alreadytheywereinfullcrywith
thematchlessDonatthefore.Manifestlytocallthembackwasan
injustice,aswellasimpossible.Intensecondstheywereoutof
sight.

Insilencewewaited,eachlistening,eachfeelingthetragedyofthe
situation,eachprayingthattheywouldpassbythepoor,helpless,
boundlion.Suddenlytheregularbayingswelledtoaburstofsavage,
snarlingfury,suchasthepackmadeinaviciousfight.This
ceasedshortsilenceensued;Donssharpvoicewoketheechoes,then
theregularbayingcontinued.

Aswithonethought,weallsatdown.Painfulasthecertaintywasit
wasnotsopainfulasthatlistening,hopingsuspense.

Shoretheycantbeblamed,saidJimfinally.Bumpingtheirnose
intoatiedlionthatwayhowdtheyknow?

Whocouldguessthesecondlionwouldjumpoffthatquickandrun
backtoourcaptive?burstoutJones.

Shorewemighthaveknowedit,repliedJim.Well,Imgoinafter

120
thepack.

Hegathereduphislassoandstrodeoffthebench.Jonessaidhe
would
climbbacktotherim,andIfollowedJim.

Whythelionsraninthatparticulardirectionwascleartomewhen
Isawthetrail.Itwasarunway,smoothandhardpacked.Itrudged
alongitwithratherlessenjoymentthanonanytrailIhadever
followedtothecanyon.Jimwaitedformeoverthecedarridgeand
showedmewherethecaptivelionlaydead.Thehoundshadnottorn
him.Theyhadkilledhimandpassedonaftertheother.

Hewasafinefellow,allofsevenfeet,wellskinhimonourway
back.

Onlydoggeddeterminationcoupledwithasenseofdutytothe
hounds
keptusonthattrail.Forthetimebeingenthusiasmhadbeen
submerged.Butwehadtofollowthepack.

Jim,lessweighteddownandperhapslessdiscouraged,forgedahead
up
anddown.Thesunhadburnedallthemorningcoolnessoutoftheair.
Iperspiredandpantedandbegantogrowweary.Jimssignalcalled
me
tohurry.Itooktoatrotandcameuponhimandthehoundsundera
smallcedar.Thelionstoodamongthedeadbranches.Hissideswhere
shakingconvulsively,andhisshortbreathscouldbeplainlyheard.
Hehadthemostblazingeyesandmostuntamedexpressionofany
wild
creatureIhaveeverseen;andthisamazedmeconsideringIhadkept
himonacragforoveranhour,andhadcometolookuponhimasmy
own.

121
Whatllwedo,Jim,nowthatwehavehimtreed?

Shore,welltiehimup,declaredJim.

Thelionstayedinthecedarlongenoughformetophotographhim
twice,thenheleapeddownagainandtooktohisbacktrail.We
followedasfastaswecould,soontofindthatthehoundshadputhim
upanothercedar.Fromthishejumpeddownamongthedogs,
scattered
themasiftheyhadbeensomanyleaves,andboundeduptheslope
out
ofsight.

IlaidasidemyrifleandcameraandtriedtokeepupwithJim.The
lionranstraightuptheslopeandtreedagainunderthewall.Before
wecoveredhalfthedistancehewasonthegooncemore,flyingdown
incloudsofdust.

Donismakinhimhump,saidJim.

Andthatalonewasenoughtospuruson.Wewouldrewardthenoble
houndifwehadthestayingpower.Donandhispackranwestward
this
time,andalongamileofthebeatentrailputhimuptwomoretrees.
Butthesewecouldnotseeandjudgedonlybythesound.

Lookthere!criedJim.Darnmeifheaintcominrightatus.

Itwastrue.Aheadofusthelionappeared,lopingwearily.We
stopped
inourtracksundecided.Jimdrewhisrevolver.Onceortwicethelion
disappearedbehindstonesandcedars.Whenhesightedushe
stopped,
lookedback,thenagainturningtowardus,heleftthetrailtoplunge
down.HehadbarelygotoutofsightwhenoldDoncamepattering

122
along
thetrail;thenRangerleadingtheothers.Dondidnotevenputhis
nosetothegroundwherethelionhadswitched,butleapedasideand
wentdown.Herethelongsectionofslopebetweenthelionsrunway
andthesecondwallhadbeenweatheredandworn,rackedand
convulsed
intodeepravines,withridgesbetween.Weclimbedandfelland
toiled
on,alwayswiththebayofthehoundsinourears.Weleapedfissures,
weloosenedavalanches,rollingthemtocrashandroarbelow,and
send
long,rumblingechoesoutintothecanyon.

Agorgeintheyellowrockopenedsuddenlybeforeus.Westoodat
the
constrictedneckofoneofthegreatsplitsinthesecondwall.The
sideoppositewasalmostperpendicular,andformedofmassonmass
of
brokenstones.Thiswasaweatheredslopeonagiganticscale.Points
ofcliffsjuttedout;cavesandcrackslinedthewall.

Thisisaroughplace,saidJim;butalioncouldgetoverthe
secondwallhere,anIbelieveamancouldtoo.Thehoundsseemedto
bebackfurthertowardwherethesplitnarrows.

Throughdenselymassedcedarsandthicketsofpricklythornswe
wormed
ourwaytocomeoutattheneckofthegorge.

Thereyeare!sangoutJim.Thehoundswereallonaflatshelfsome
fewfeetbelowus,andonasharppointofrockcloseby,buttoofar
forthedogstoreach,crouchedthelion.Hewasgaspingandfrothing
atthemouth.

ShoreifhedonlystaytheresaidJim.

123

Heloosenedhislasso,andstationinghimselfjustabovethetired
beasthepreparedtocastdowntheloop.Thefirstthrowfailedofits
purpose,buttheropehitthelion.Hegotuppainfullyitseemed,
andfacedthedogs.Thatwaybarredheturnedtothecliff.Almost
oppositehimashelfleanedout.Helookedatit,thenpacedtoand
frolikeabeastinacage.

Helookedagainatthehounds,thenupatus,allaround,andfinally
concentratedhisattentionontheshelf;hislonglengthsaggedin
themiddle,hestretchedlow,hismusclesgatheredandstrung,andhe
spranglikeatawnystreak.

Hisaimwastrue,thewholeforepartofhisbodylandedontheshelf
andhehungthere.Thenheslipped.Wedistinctlyheardhisclaws
scrapethehard,smoothrock.Hefell,turningasomersault,struck
twentyfeetbelowontheroughslant,boundedfromthattofalldown,
strikingsuddenlyandthentoroll,ayellowwheelthatlodgedbehind
arockandstretchedouttomovenomore.

Thehoundsweresilent;JimandIweresilent;afewlittlestones
rattled,thenwerestill.Thedeadsilenceofthecanyonseemedtopay
tributetothelionsunquenchablespiritandtothefreedomhehad
earnedtothelast.

VIII

HowlongJimandIsatthereweneverknew.Thesecondtragedy,not
so
pitifulbutasheartsickeningasthefirst,crushedourspirits.

Shorehewasagamelion,saidJim.AnIllhavetogethisskin.

124
Imallin,Jim.Icouldntclimboutofthathole.Isaid.

Youneednt.Restalittle,takeagooddrinkanleaveyourcanteen
hereforme;thengetyourthingsbackthereonthetrailanclimb
out.WerenotfarfromWestPoint.Illgobackafterthefirst
lionsskinanthenclimbstraightup.Youleadmyhorsetothepoint
whereyoucameofftherim.

Heclatteredalongthegorgeknockingthestonesandstarteddown.I
watchedhimlettinghimselfovertheendofthehugeslabsuntilhe
passedoutofmysight.Agood,longdrinkrevivedmeandIbegan
the
ascent.

Fromthatmomentontimedidnotmattertome.Iforgotallaboutit.
Ifeltonlymyleadenfeetandmylaboringchestanddrippingskin.
Ididnotevennoticetheadditionalweightofmyrifleandcamera
thoughtheymusthaveoverburdenedme.Ikeptmyeyesonthelion
runwayandplungedawaywithshortsteps.Tolookatthesetowering
wallswouldhavebeentosurrender.

Atlast,stumbling,bursting,sick,Igainedtherimandhadtorest
beforeIcouldmount.WhenIdidgetintothesaddleIalmostfell
fromit.

JonesandEmettwerewaitingformeatthepromontorywhereIhad
tiedmyhorse,andweresoonacquaintedwiththeparticularsofmy
adventure,andthatJimwouldprobablynotgetoutforhours.We
made
tracksforcamp,andneverdidaplacerouseinmesuchasenseof
gratefulness.Emettgotdinnerandleftonthefireakettleofpotato
stewforJim.Itwasalmostdarkwhenthatworthycameridinginto
camp.Weneversaidawordashethrewthetwolionskinsonthe
ground.

125
Fellows,youshorehavemissedthewindup!heexclaimed.

Wealllookedathimandhelookedatus.

Wasthereanymore?Iaskedweakly.

Shore!Anitbeatshell!WhenIgottheskinofthelionthedogs
killedIstartedtoworkuptotheplaceIknowedyoudleavemy
horse.Itsbadclimbingwhereyoucamedown.Igotonthesideof
thatcliffansawwhereIcouldworkout,ifIcouldclimbasmooth
place.SoItried.Therewaslittlecracksanridgesformyfeetand
hands.Alltoonce,justabovewhereIhelpedyoudown,Ihearda
growl.LookingupIsawabiglion,biggernanywechasedexcept
Sultan,anhewaspokinhisheadoutofahole,anshoretelling
metocomenofurther.Icouldntletgowitheitherhandtoreachmy
gun,becauseIdhavefallen,soIyelledathimwithallmymight.He
spitatmeanthenwalkedoutoftheholeoverthebenchasproudas
alordanjumpeddownwhereIcouldntseehimanymore.Iclimbed
outallrightbuthedgone.AnIlltellyouforaminute,heshore
mademesweat.

ByGeorge!Iyelled,greatlyexcited.Iheardthatlionbreathing.
Donchasedhimupthere.Iheardhard,wheezingbreathssomewhere
behindme,butintheexcitementIdidntpayanyattentiontothem.I
thoughtitwasJonespanting,butnowIknowwhatitmeant.

Shore.Hewasthereallthetime,lookinatyouanmaybehecould
havereachedyou.

Wewerealltooexhaustedformorediscussionandputtingthatoff
untilthenextdaywesoughtourbeds.Itwashardlyanywonderthat
I
feltmyselfjumpingeveninmysleep,andstartedupwildlymore
than
onceinthedeadofnight.

126

Morningfoundusallrathersubdued,yetmoreinclinedtoa
philosophicalresignationasregardedthedifficultiesofourspecial
kindofhunting.Capturingthelionsontheleveloftheplateauwas
easycomparedtofollowingthemdownintocanyonsandbringing
themup
alone.Weallagreedthatthatwasnexttoimpossible.Anotherfeature,
whichbeforewehadnotconsidered,addedtoourperplexityandit
wasa
dawningconsciousnessthatwewouldbeperhapslesscruelifwe
killed
thelionsoutright.JonesandEmettarrayedthemselvesontheside
that
lifeevenincaptivitywaspreferable;whileJimandI,nodoubtstill
underthepoignantinfluenceofthelastlionsheroicraceandend,
inclinedtofreedomordeath.Wecompromisedonthereasonablefact
that
asyetwehadshownonlyajackasskindofintelligence.

Aboutelevenoclockwhiletheothershaddesertedcamptemporarily
forsomereasonorother,Iwaslounginguponanodorousbedofpine
needles.Thesunshonewarmly,theskygleamedbrightazurethrough
theopeningsofthegreattrees,adrywestbreezemurmuredthrough
theforest.Iwaslyingonmybedmusingidlyandwatchingayellow
woodpeckerwhensuddenlyIfeltaseverebiteonmyshoulder.I
imaginedananthadbittenmethroughmyshirt.Inamomentorso
afterwardIreceived,thistimeonmybreast,anotherbitethatleft
noroomforimagination.Therewassomekindofananimalinsidemy
shirt,andonethatmadeamosquito,blackfly,orfleaseemtame.

Suddenlyathoughtsweptontheheelsofmyindolentandrather
annoyingrealization.CouldIhavegottenfromtheNavajowhatJim
and
Jonessocharacteristicallycalledem?Iturnedcoldallover.And
ontheveryinstantIreceivedanotherbitethatburnedlikefire.

127

Thereturnofmycompanionspreventedanyopendemonstrationof
my
fearsandconditionofmind,butIcertainlysworeinwardly.During
thedinnerhourIfeltallthetimeasifIhadonahorsehairshirt
withtheendsprotrudingtowardmyskin,and,intheexaggerated
sensitivenessofthemoment,madesureemwerechasingupand
down
myback.

AfterdinnerIsneakedoffintothewoods.IrememberedthatEmett
hadsaidtherewasonlyonewaytogetridofem,andthatwasto
disrobeandmakeamicroscopicalsearchofgarmentsandperson.
With
seriousmindandmurderousintentIundressed.Inthemiddleofthe
backofmyjerseyIdiscoveredseverallong,uncanny,graythings.

IguessIgotem,Isaidgravely.

ThenIsatonapineloginastateofunadornednature,oblivious
toallaround,intentonlyonthemassacreofthethingsthathad
violatedme.HowmuchtimeflewIcouldnotguess.Greatloud
Hawhaws!rousedmetoconsternation.Therebehindmestood
Jones
andEmettshakingasifwiththeague.

Itsnotfunny!Ishoutedinarage.Ihadtheunreasonable
suspicionthattheyhadfollowedmetoseemyhumiliation.Jones,
who
crackedasmileaboutasoftenastheequinoxescame,andEmettthe
soberMormon,laugheduntiltheycried.

Iwasjustwonderingwhatyourfolkswouldthinkiftheysaw
younow,gurgledJones.

128
Thatbroughttomethehumorofthething,andIjoinedintheir
mirth.

AllIhopeisthatyoufellowswillgetemtoo,Isaid.

TheGoodLordpreservemefromthatparticularbreedofNavvys,
criedEmett.

Joneswriggledalloveratthemeresuggestion.Nowsomuchfromthe
oldplainsman,whohadconfessedtointimaterelationswithevery
creeping,crawlingthingintheWest,attestedpowerfullytothe
unforgettablesingularityofwhatIgotfromNavvy.

Ireturnedtocampdeterminedtomakethebestofthesituation,
whichowingtomyfailuretocatchallofthegraydevils,remained
practicallyunchanged.Jimhadbeenacquaintedwithmydilemma,as
was
manifestinhisweteyesandbroadgrinwithwhichhegreetedme.

IthinkIdscalptheNavvy,hesaid.

YoumaketheIndiansleepoutsideafterthis,snowornosnow,was
Jonessuggestion.

NoIwont;Iwontshowayellowstreaklikethat.Besides,Iwant
togiveemtoyoufellows.

Ablanksilencefollowedmystatement,towhichJimreplied:

Shorethatllbeeasy;Jonesllhaveem,sollEmett,anbythunder
Imscratchinnow.

Navvy,lookhere,Isaidseverely,muchanobueno!heapbad!
Youme!hereIscratchedmyselfandmadesignsthatawooden
Indian

129
wouldhaveunderstood.

Mesavvy,hereplied,sullenly,thenflaredup.Heapbiglie.

Heturnedonhisheel,erect,dignified,andwalkedawayamidthe
roarsofmygleefulcomrades.

IX

Onebyonemycompanionssoughttheirblankets,leavingthe
shadows,
thedyingembers,theslowrisingmoanofthenightwindtome.Old
Mozegotupfromamongtheotherhoundsandlimpedintomytent,
where
Iheardhimgroanashelaydown.Don,Sounder,andRangerwere
fastasleepinwellearnedrest.Shep,oneofthepups,whinedand
impatientlytossedhisshortchain.Rememberingthathehadnotbeen
looseallday,Iunbuckledhiscollarandlethimgo.

Helickedmyhand,stretchedandshookhimself,liftedhisshapely,
sleekheadandsniffedthewind.Hetrottedaroundthecirclecastby
thefireandlookedoutintothedarkeningshadows.Itwasplainthat
Shepsinstinctsweredevelopingfast;hewasambitioustohunt.But
sureinmybeliefthathewasafraidoftheblacknightandwouldstay
incamp,Iwenttobed.

TheNavajowhosleptwithmesnoredserenelyandMozegrowledin
his
dreams;thewindsweptthroughthepineswithanintermittentrush.
SometimeintheafterpartofthenightIheardadistantsound.
Remote,mournful,wild,itsentachillcreepingoverme.Borne
faintlytomyears,itwasafitaccompanimenttothemoanofthewind
inthepines.Itwasnotthecryofatrailingwolf,northelonesome
howlofaprowlingcoyote,northestrange,lowsound,likeacough,

130
ofahuntingcougar,thoughithadasemblanceofallthree.Itwas
thebayofahound,thinnedoutbydistance,anditservedtokeepme
wideawake.Butforawhile,whatwiththeroarandswellofthewind
andNavvyssnores,Icouldhearitonlyatlongintervals.

Still,inthecourseofanhour,Ifollowedthesound,orimaginedso,
fromapointstraightinlinewithmyfeettooneatrightangles
withmyhead.FinallydecidingitcamefromShep,andfancyinghe
was
trailingadeerorcoyote,Itriedtogotosleepagain.

InthisIwouldhavesucceededhadnot,allatonce,ourcaptivelions
beguntogrowl.Thatominous,lowmurmuringawokemewitha
vengeance,
foritwasunusualforthemtogrowlinthemiddleofthenight.
Iwonderedifthey,aswellasthepup,hadgottenthescentofa
prowlinglion.

IreacheddowntomyfeetandgropedinthedarkforMoze.Finding
him,Igavehimashake.Theoldgladiatorgroaned,stirred,andcame
outofwhatmusthavebeendreamsofhuntingmeat.Heslappedhis
tail
againstmybed.Asluckwouldhaveit,justthenthewindabatedtoa
softmoan,andclearandsharpcamethebayofahound.Mozeheard
it,
forhestoppedwagginghistail,hisbodygrewtenseundermyhand,
andheventedhislow,deepgrumble.

Ilaythereundecided.Towakemycompanionswashardlytobe
considered,andtoventureoffintotheforestalone,whereoldSultan
mightbescouting,wasnotexactlytomytaste.Andtryingtothink
whattodo,andlisteningforthebayofthepup,andhearingmostly
thelionsgrowlingandthewindroaring,Ifellasleep.

Hey!areyouevergoingtogetup?someoneyelledintomydrowsy

131
brain.Irousedandopenedmyeyes.Theyellow,flickeringshadows
on
thewallofmytenttoldmethatthesunhadlongrisen.Ifoundmy
companionsfinishingbreakfast.ThefirstthingIdidwastolookover
thedogs.Shep,theblackandwhitepup,wasmissing.

WheresShep?Iasked.

Shore,Iaintseenhimthismornin,repliedJim.

ThereuponItoldwhatIhadheardduringthenight.

Everybodylisten,saidJones.

Wequieteddownandsatlikestatues.Agentle,coolbreeze,barely
movingthepinetips,hadsucceededthenightwind.Thesoundof
horsesmunchingtheiroats,andanoccasionalclink,rattle,andgrowl
fromthelionsdidnotdrownthefaintbutunmistakableyelpsofa
pup.

South,towardthecanyon,saidJim,asJonesgotup.

Now,itdbefunnyifthatlittleShep,justtogetevenwithmefor
tyinghimupsooften,hastreedalionallbyhimself,commented
Jones.AndIllbetthatsjustwhathesdone.

Hecalledthehoundsabouthimandhurriedwestwardthroughthe
forest.

Shore,itmightbe.Jimshookhisheadknowingly.Ireckonits
onlyarabbit,butanythinmighthappeninthisplace.

IfinishedbreakfastandwentintomytentforsomethingIforget
what,forwildyellsfromEmettandJimbroughtmeflyingoutagain.

132
Listentothat!criedJim,pointingwest.

Thehoundshadopenedup;theirfull,wildchorusfloatedclearlyon
thebreeze,andaboveitJonesstentorianyellsignaledus.

Shore,theoldmancanyell,continuedJim.Grabyourlassosan
humpyourselves.Ivegotthecollaranchain.

Comeon,Navvy,shoutedEmett.HegraspedtheIndianswristand
startedtorun,jerkingNavvyintotheairateveryjump.Icaughtup
mycameraandfollowed.Wecrossedtwoshallowhollows,andthen
saw
thehoundsandJonesamongthepinesnotfarahead.

InmyexcitementIoutranmycompanionsanddashedintoanopen
glade.
FirstIsawJoneswavinghislongarms;nextthedogs,nosesupward,
andDonactuallystandingonhishindlegs;thenadeadpinewitha
wellknowntawnyshapeoutlinedagainstthebluesky.

HurrahforShep!Iyelled,andrightvigorouslydidmycomrades
join
in.

Itsanotherfemale,saidJones,whenwecalmeddown,andfair
sized.ThatsthebesttreeforourpurposethatIeversawalionin.
Sospreadout,boys;surroundherandkeepnoisy.

NavvybrokefromEmettatthisjunctureandranaway.Butevidently
overcomebycuriosity,hestoppedtohidebehindabush,fromwhich
I
sawhisblackheadprotruding.

WhenJonesswunghimselfonthefirststubbybranchofthepine,the
lioness,somefifteenfeetabove,leapedtoanotherlimb,andtheone

133
shehadleftcracked,swayedandbroke.ItfelldirectlyuponJones,
thebluntendstrikinghisheadandknockinghimoutofthetree.
Fortunately,helandedonhisfeet;otherwisetherewouldsurelyhave
beenbonesbroken.Heappearedstunned,andreeledsothatEmett
caughthim.Thebloodpouredfromawoundinhishead.

Thissuddenshocksoberedusinstantly.Onexaminationwefounda
long,jaggedcutinJonesscalp.Webatheditwithwaterfrommy
canteenandwithsnowJimprocuredfromanearbyhollow,
eventually
stoppingthebleeding.IinsistedonJonescomingtocamptohavethe
woundproperlydressed,andheinsistedonhavingitboundwitha
bandana;afterwhichheinformedusthathewasgoingtoclimbthe
treeagain.

Weobjectedtothis.Eachofusdeclaredhiswillingnesstogoupand
ropethelion;butJoneswouldnothearofit.

Imnotdoubtingyourcourage,hesaid.Itsonlythatyoucannot
tellwhatmovethelionwouldmakenext,andthatsthedanger.

Wecouldnotgainsaythis,andasnotoneofuswantedtokillthe
animalorlethergo,Joneshadhisway.Sohewentupthetree,
passedthefirstbranchandthenanother.Thelionesschangedher
position,growled,spat,clawedthetwigs,triedtokeepthetree
trunkbetweenherandJones,andatlengthgotoutonabranchina
mostfavorablepositionforroping.

Thefirstcastofthelassodidthebusiness,andJimandEmettwith
nimblefingerstiedupthehounds.

Coming,shoutedJones.Hesliddown,handoverhand,ontherope,
thelionessholdinghisweightwithapparentease.

Makeyournooseready,heyelledtoEmett.

134

IhadtodropmycameratohelpJonesandJimpulltheanimalfrom
herperch.Thebranchesbrokeinashower;thenthelioness,hissing,
snarling,whirling,plungeddown.Shenearlyjerkedtheropeoutof
ourhands,butweloweredhertoEmett,whonoosedherhindpaws
ina
flash.

Makefastyourrope,shoutedJones.There,thatsgood!Nowlether
downeasy.

Assoonasthelionesstouchedgroundweletgothelasso,which
whippedupandoverthebranch.Shebecamearound,yellow,
rapidly
movingball.Emettwasthefirsttocatchthelooselasso,andhe
checkedtherollingcougar.Jonesleapedtoassisthimandthetwoof
themstraightenedoutthestrugglinganimal,whileJimswung
another
nooseather.Onthesecondthrowhecaughtafrontpaw.

Pullhard!Stretchherout!yelledJones.Hegraspedastoutpiece
ofwoodandpusheditatthelioness.Shecaughtitinhermouth,
makingthesplintersfly.Jonesshovedherheadbackontheground
and
pressedhisbrawnykneeonthebarofwood.

Thecollar!Thecollar!Quick!hecalled.

Ithrewchainandcollartohim,whichinamomenthehadbuckled
roundherneck.

There,wevegother!hesaid.Itsonlyashortwayovertocamp,
sowelldragherwithoutmuzzling.

Asherosethelionesslurched,andreachinghim,fastenedher

135
fangsinhisleg.Jonesroared.EmettandJimyelled.AndI,though
frightened,wassoobsessedwiththeideaofgettingapicturethatI
begantofumblewiththeshutterofmycamera.

Grabthechain!Pullheroff!bawledJones.

Iranin,tookupthechainwithbothhands,andtuggedwithallmy
might.Emett,too,hadallhisweightonthelassoroundherneck.
Betweenthetwoofuswechokedherholdloose,butshebrought
Jones
leatherleggininherteeth.ThenIdroppedthechainandjumped.

****!explodedJonestome.Doyouthinkmoreofapicture
thanofsavingmylife?Havingexpressedthisnotunreasonable
protest,heuntiedthelassothatEmetthadmadefasttoasmall
sapling.

Thenthethreemen,formingpointsofatrianglearoundananimated
center,beganamarchthroughtheforestthatforvarietyofaction
andsplendidvociferationbeatanyshowIeverbeheld.

SorarewasitthattheNavajocameoutofhisretreatand,
straightwayforgettinghisreverenceandfear,begantoexecutea
ghostdance,orwardance,oratanyratesomekindofanIndian
dance,alongthesidelines.

ThereweremomentswhenthelionesshadJimandJonesonthe
ground
andEmettwobbling;otherswhensheranonherboundlegsand
chased
thetwoinfrontanddraggedtheonebehind;otherswhenshecame
withinanaceofgettingherteethinsomebody.

TheyhadcaughtaTartar.Theydarednotlethergo,andthoughJones
evidentlyorderedit,noonemadefasthisropetoatree.Therewas

136
noopportunity.Shewasintheairthreepartsofthetimeandthe
fourthshewasinvisiblefordust.Thelassoswereeachthirtyfeet
long,butevenwiththatthemencouldjustbarelykeepoutofher
reach.

Thencametheclimax,asitalwayscomesinalionhunt,unerringly,
unexpectedly,andwithlightningswiftness.Thethreemenwere
nearing
thebottomofthesecondhollow,wellspreadout,lassostaut,facing
oneanother.Jonesstumbledandthelionessleapedhisway.The
weightofbothbroughtJimover,slidingandslipping,withhisrope
slackening.TheleapofthelionesscarriedherwithinreachofJones;
andasheraisedhimself,backtowardher,shereachedabigpawfor
himjustasEmettthrewallhisbullstrengthandbulkonhislasso.

TheseatofJonestrouserscameawaywiththelionessclaws.Then
shefellbackward,overcomebyEmettsdesperatelunge.Jonessprang
upwiththevelocityofanArabtumbler,andhisscarletface,working
spasmodically,andhismovinglips,showedhowutterlyunablehe
was
togiveexpressiontohisrage.Ihadastitchinmysidethatnearly
killedme,butlaughIhadtothoughIshoulddieforit.

Nolaughingmatterwasitforthem.Theyvolleyedandthundered
backandforthmeaninglesswordsofwhichhellwastheonlyone
distinguishable,andprobablythewordthatbestdescribedtheir
situation.

Allthewhile,however,theyhadbeenrunningfromthelioness,
which
broughtthembeforetheyrealizeditrightintocamp.Ourcaptive
lionscutupfearfullyatthehubbub,andthehorsesstampededin
terror.

Whoa!yelledJones,whethertohiscompanionsortothestruggling

137
cougar,nooneknew.ButNavvythoughtJonesaddressedthecougar.

Whoa!repeatedNavvy.Nosavvywhoa!Nosavvywhoa!which
proved
conclusivelythattheNavajohadunderstandingaswellaswit.

Soonwehadanothercaptivesafelychainedandgrowlingawayin
tune
withtheothers.Iwentbacktountiethehounds,tofindthemsulky
andoutofsortsfrombeingsounceremoniouslytreated.Theynoisily
trailedthelionessintocamp,where,findingherchained,theyformed
aringaroundher.

Thereafterthedaypassedinroundthecampfirechatandtask.For
onceJimlookedatNavvywithtoleration.Wedressedthewoundin
Jonesheadandlaughedattheconditionofhistrousersandathis
awkwardattemptstopiecethem.

Muchadamcougie,remarkedNavvy.Nosavvywhoa!

Thelionsgrowledallday.AndJoneskeptrepeating:Tothinkhow
Shepfooledme!

NextmorningJoneswasoutbrightandearly,yellingatNavvyto
hurry
withthehorses,callingtothehoundsandlions,justasusual.

Navvyhadfinallycometohisfullshareofpraisefromallofus.
EvenJimacknowledgedthattheIndianwasinvaluabletoahunting
partyinacountrywheregrassandwaterwerehardtofindandwild
horseshauntedthetrails.

138
_Tohodena!Tohodena!_(hurry!hurry!)saidNavvy,mimicking
Jones
thatmorning.

Aswesatdowntobreakfasthelopedoffintotheforestandbeforewe
gotupthebellsofthehorseswerejinglinginthehollow.

Ibelieveitsgoingtobecloudy,saidJones,andifsowecan
huntallday.

WerodedowntheridgetotheleftofMiddleCanyon,andhadtrouble
withthehoundsalltheway.Firsttheyranfoulofacoyote,which
wastheoneandonlybeasttheycouldnotresist.Spreadingoutto
headthemoff,weseparated.Icutintoahollowandrodetoitshead,
whereIwentup.Iheardthehoundsandpresentlysawabig,white
coyotemakingfasttimethroughtheforestglades.Itlookedasifhe
wouldcrosscloseinfrontofme,soIpulledFoxietoastandstill,
jumpedoffandkneltwithmyrifleready.Butthesharpeyedcoyote
sawmyhorseandshiedoff.Ihadnotmuchhopetohithimsofar
away,andthefivebulletsIsentafterhim,singingandzipping,
servedonlytomakehimrunfaster.ImountedFoxieandintercepted
thehoundscomingupsharplyonthetrail,andturnedthemtoward
my
companions,nowhallooingfromtheridgebelow.

Thenthepacklostagoodhouronseveralliontracksthatwereaday
old,andforsuchtrailswehadnotime.Wereachedthecedars
however
atsevenoclock,andastheskywasovercastwithlowduncolored
cloudsandtheaircool,weweresureitwasnottoolate.

OneofthecapesoftheplateaubetweenMiddleandLeftCanyonwas
a
narrowstripofrock,coveredwithadensecedargrowthandcutup
intosmallercanyons,allrunningdowninevitablytowardthegreat

139
canyon.Withbutasinglebarktowarnus,Dongotoutofoursight
andhearing;andwhilewesplittolookandcallforhimtheremainder
ofthepackfoundtheliontrailthathehadgoneon,andtheyleft
ustryingtofindawayoutaswellastofindeachother.Ikeptthe
houndsinhearingforsometimeandmeanwhileIsignalledtoEmett
who
wasonmyrightflank.JonesandJimmightaswellhavevanishedoff
theglobeforallIcouldseeorhearofthem.Adeep,narrowgully
intowhichIhadtoleadFoxieandcarefullycoaxhimouttookso
much
timethatwhenIoncemorereachedalevelIcouldnothearthe
hounds
orgetananswertomysignalcry.

Waahoo!Icalledagain.

Awayonthedryrarifiedairpealedthecry,piercingthecedar
forest,splittingsharpinthevaultedcanyons,rollingloudandlong,
tolosepower,todieawayinmufflingecho.Butthesilencereturned
noanswer.

Irodeonunderthecedars,throughadark,gloomyforest,silent,
almostspectral,whichbroughtirresistiblytomymindthewords
Ifoundmeinagloomywoodastray.IwaslostthoughIknewthe
directionofthecamp.Thissectionofcedarforestwasallbut
impenetrable.Deadcedarsweremassedingraytangles,livecedars,
branchestouchingtheground,grewclosetogether.Inthislabyrinth
Ilostmybearings.Iturnedandturned,crossedmyownbacktrail,
whichindesperationIfollowed,comingoutofthecedarsatthedeep
andnarrowcanyon.

HereIfiredmyrevolver.Theechoboomedoutlikethereportof
heavy
artillery,butnoansweringshotrewardedme.Therewasno
alternative

140
savetowanderalongthecanyonandthroughthecedarsuntilIfound
mycompanions.ThisIbegantodo,disgustedwithmyawkwardness
in
losingthem.TurningFoxiewestwardIhadscarcelygottenunderway
whenDoncametrottingtowardme.

Hello,oldboy!Icalled.DonappearedashappytoseemeasIwas
toseehim.Hefloppeddownontheground;hisdrippingtongue
rolled
ashepanted;coveredwithdustandfleckedwithlightfrothhesurely
lookedtobeatiredhound.

Allin,ehDon!Isaiddismounting.Well,wellrestawhile.Then
Idiscoveredbloodonhisnose,whichIfoundtohavecomefroma
deep
scratch.Aah!beenpushingaliontoohardthismorning?Gotyour
nosescratched,didntyou?Yougreat,crazyhound,dontyouknow
somedayyoullchaseyourlastlion?

Donwaggedhistailasiftosayheknewitallverywell.Iwetmy
handkerchieffrommycanteenandstartedtowashthebloodanddust
fromhisnose,whenhewhinedandlickedmyfingers.

Thirsty?Iasked,sittingdownbesidehim.Dentingthetopofmyhat
Ipouredinasmuchwaterasitwouldholdandgavehimtodrink.
Four
timesheemptiedmyimprovisedcupbeforehewassatisfied.Then
with
asighofreliefhelaydownagain.

Thethreeofusrestedthereforperhapshalfanhour,DonandI
sittingquietlyonthewallofthecanyon,whileFoxiebrowsedon
occasionaltuftsofgrass.Duringthattimethehoundneverraisedhis
sleek,darkhead,whichshowedconclusivelythenatureofthesilence.
AndnowthatIhadcompanyasgoodcompanyasanyhunterever

141
hadI
wasoncemorecontented.

Dongotup,atlengthofhisownvolitionandwithawagofhistail
setoffwestwardalongtherim.RemountingmymustangIkeptas
close
toDonsheelsastheroughgoingpermitted.Thehound,however,
showednodispositiontohurry,andIlethimhavehiswaywithouta
word.

Wecameoutinthenotchofthegreatamphitheaterorcurvewehad
namedtheBay,andIsawagainthedownwardslope,theboldsteps,
the
coloranddepthbelow.

IwasjustabouttoyellasignalcrywhenIsawDon,withhairrising
stiff,runforward.Hetookadozenjumps,thenyelpingbrokedown
the
steep,yellowandgreengorge.HedisappearedbeforeIknewwhat
had
happened.

ShortlyIfoundaliontrack,freshlymade,leadingdown.Ibelieved
IcouldfollowwhereverDonled,soIdecidedtogoafterhim.Itied
Foxiesecurely,removedmycoat,kickedoffspursandchaps,and
rememberingpastunnecessarytoil,fastenedaredbandanatothetop
ofadeadsnagtoshowmewheretocomeuponmywayout.ThenI
carefullystrappedmycanteenandcameraonmyback,madedoubly
securemyrevolver,putonmyheavygloves,andstarteddown.AndI
realizedatoncethatonlysolightlyencumberedshouldIhaveever
ventureddowntheslope.

Littlebenchesofrock,grassyontop,withhereandtherecedar
trees,ledsteeplydownforperhapsfivehundredfeet.Aprecipice
stoppedme.FromitIheardDonbayingbelow,andalmostinstantly

142
saw
theyellowgleamofalioninatreetop.

Hi!Hi!Hi!Hi!Hi!Iyelledinwildencouragement.

IfeltitwouldbewisetolookbeforeIleaped.TheBaylayunderme,
amilewidewhereitopenedintothegreatslumberingsmokycanyon.
Allbelowwaschaosofsplinteredstoneandslope,greenjumbleof
cedar,ruined,detached,sliding,standingcliffwalls,leaningyellow
cragsanawfulhole.ButIcouldgetdown,andthatwasallIcared
for.Iranalongtotheleft,jumpingcracks,boundingovertheuneven
stoneswithsure,swiftfeet,andcametowherethecliffendedin
weatheredslopeandscalybench.

Itwaslikeagame,goingdownthatcanyon.Myheavynailedboots
struckfirefromtherocks.MyheavyglovesprotectedmyhandsasI
slidandhungonandletgo.Ioutfootedtheavalanchesandwherever
I
cametoascalyslopeorbankordecayedrock,Ileapeddowninsheer
delight.

Butalltoosoonmyprogresswasbarred;onceunderthecliffIfound
onlyagradualslopeandmanyobstaclestogoroundorsurmount.
Luck
favoredme,forIranacrossarunwayandkeepingtoitmadebetter
time.IheardDonlongbeforeItriedtoseehim,andyelledat
intervalstolethimknowIwascoming.Awhitebankofweathered
stonesleddowntoaclumpofcedarsfromwhereDonsbaycame
spurringmetogreaterefforts.Iflewdownthisbank,andthroughan
openingsawthehoundstandingwithforefeetagainstacedar.The
branchesoverhimswayed,andIsawanindistinct,tawnyformmove
downwardintheair.Thensucceededthecrashandrattleofstones.
Donleftthetreeanddisappeared.

Idasheddown,dodgedunderthecedars,threadedamazeofrocks,to

143
findmyselfinaravinewithabare,waterwornfloor.Inpatchesof
sandshowedthefreshtracksofDonandthelion.Runningdownthis
dry,cleanbedwastheeasiestgoingIeverfoundinthecanyon.Every
rodthecoursejumpedinafallfromfourtotenfeet,oftenmore,and
theseIsliddown.HowIeverkeptDoninhearingwasamarvel,but
stillIdid.

Thelionevidentlyhadnofurtherintentionoftakingtoatree.From
thesizeofhistrackIconcludedhewasoldandIfearedeverymoment
tohearthesoundsofafight.Joneshadsaidthatnearlyalwaysin
thecaseofonehoundchasinganoldlion,thelionwouldlieinwait
forhimandkillhim.AndIwasafraidforDon.

Down,down,down,wewent,tilltheyellowrimaboveseemedathin
bandofgold.Isawthatwewerealmosttothecanyonproper,and
Iwonderedwhatwouldhappenwhenwereachedit.Thedarkshaded
watercoursesuddenlyshotoutintobrightlightandendedinadeep
cove,withperpendicularwallsfiftyfeethigh.Icouldseewhere
afewrodsfartheronthiscoveopenedintoahuge,airy,colored
canyon.

Icalledthehound,wonderingifhehadgonetotherightorleftof
thecove.Hisbayansweredmecomingfromthecedarsfartothe
right.
Iturnedwithallthespeedleftinme,forIfeltthechasenearing
anend.Tracksofhoundandliononcemoreshowedinthedust.The
slopewassteepandstonesIsentrollingcrackeddownbelow.SoonI
hadacliffabovemeandhadtogoslowandcautiously.Amisstepor
slidewouldhaveprecipitatedmeintothecove.

AlmostbeforeIknewwhatIwasabout,Istoodgaspingonthe
gigantic
secondwallofthecanyon,withnothingbutthinairunderme,except,
farbelow,faintandindistinctpurpleclefts,redridges,dotted
slopes,runningdowntomergeinadark,windingstripofwater,

144
thatwastheRioColorado.Asullenmurmursoaredoutoftheabyss.

Thecoloringofmymoodchanged.Neverhadthecanyonstruckme
so
terriblywithitsillimitablespace,itsdreaddepth,itsunscalable
cliffs,andparticularlywiththedesolate,forbiddingqualityofits
silence.

IheardDonbark.TurningthecornerofthecliffwallIsawhimona
narrowshelf.Hewascomingtowardmeandwhenhereachedmehe
faced
againtothewallandbarkedfiercely.Thehaironhisneckbristled.
Iknewhedidnotfancythatnarrowstripofrock,nordidI.Buta
sudden,grim,coldsomethinghadtakenpossessionofme,andI
stepped
forward.

Comeon,Don,oldfellow,wevegothimcorralled.

ThatwasthefirstinstanceIeverknewofDonshesitationinthe
chaseofalion.Ihadtocoaxhimtome.Butoncestartedhetookthe
leadandIcloselyfollowed.

Theshelfwastwentyfeetwideanduponitclosetothewall,inthe
dust,werethedeepimprintsofthelion.Ajuttingcornerofcliff
wallhidmyview.Ipeepedaroundit.Theshelfnarrowedontheother
sidetoayardinwidth,andclimbedgraduallybybrokensteps.Don
passedthecorner,lookedbacktoseeifIwascomingandwenton.He
didthisfourtimes,onceevenstoppingtowaitforme.

ImwithyouDon!Igrimlymuttered.Wellseethistrailouttoa
finish.

Ihadnownoeyesforthewondersoftheplace,thoughIcouldnotbut
seeasIbentapiercinggazeaheadtheponderousoverhangingwall

145
above,andsensethebottomlessdepthbelow.Ifeltratherthansaw
thecanyonswallows,sweepingbyindartingflight,withsoft
rustleofwings,andIheardtheshrillchirpofsomestrangecliff
inhabitant.

Donceasedbarking.Howstrangethatseemedtome!Wewereno
longer
manandhound,butcompanions,brothers,eachonerelyingonthe
other.Aprotrudingcornershutusfromsightofwhatwasbeyond.
Don
slippedaround.Ihadtogosidewiseandshudderedasmyfingersbit
intothewall.

TomysurpriseIsoonfoundmyselfonthefloorofashallowwind
cave.Theliontrailledstraightacrossitandon.Shelvesofrock
stuckoutaboveunderwhichIhurriedlywalked.Icameuponashrub
cedargrowinginanicheandmarveledtoseeitthere.Donwent
slower
andslower.

Wesuddenlyroundedapoint,toseethelionlyinginaboxlikespace
inthewall.Theshelfendedthere.Ihadoncebeforebeenconfronted
withalikesituation,andhadexpectedtofindithere,sowasnot
frightened.Thelionlookedupfromhistaskoflickingabloodypaw,
andutteredafiercegrowl.Histailbegantolashtoandfro;it
knockedthelittlestonesofftheshelf.Iheardthemclickonthe
wall.Againandagainhespat,showinggreat,whitefangs.Hewasa
Tom,heavyandlarge.

Ithadbeenmypurpose,ofcourse,tophotographthislion,andnow
thatwehadcorneredhimIproposedtodoit.Whatwouldfollowhad
onlyhazilyformedinmymind,butthenucleusofitwasthathe
shouldgofree.Igotmycamera,openedit,andfocusedfrombetween
twentyandtwentyfivefeet.

146
ThenagrowlfromDonandroarfromthelionbademecometomy
senses.Ididsoandmyfirstmovementafterseeingthelionhadrisen
threateninglywastowhipoutmyrevolver.

Thelionscruelyelloweyesdarkenedanddarkened.InaninstantI
sawmyerror.Joneshadalwayssaidincaseanyoneofushadto
facealion,neverforasingleinstanttoshifthisglance.Ihad
forgottenthat,andinthatshortintervalwhenIfocusedmycamera
thelionhadseenImeanthimnoharm,orfearedhim,andhehad
risen.EventhenindesperatelesseningambitionforagreatpictureI
attemptedtotakeone,stillkeepingmyglanceonhim.

Itwasthenthattheappallingnatureofmypredicamentmadeitself
plaintome.Thelionleapedtenfeetandstoodsnarlinghorribly
rightinmyface.

Brave,nobleDon,withinfinitelymoresenseandcouragethanI
possessed,facedthelionandbayedhiminhisteeth.Iraisedthe
revolverandaimedtwice,eachtimeloweringitbecauseIfearedto
shootinsuchaprecariousposition.Towoundthelionwouldbethe
worstthingIcoulddo,andIknewthatonlyashotthroughthebrain
wouldkillhiminhistracks.

Holdhim,Don,holdhim!Iyelled,andItookabackwardstep.The
lionputforwardonebigpaw,hiseyesnowallpurpleblaze.Ibacked
againandhecameforward.Dongavegroundslowly.Oncethelion
flashedayellowpawathim.Itwasfrightfultoseethewidespread
claws.

IntheconsternationofthemomentIallowedtheliontobackme
acrossthefrontofthewindcave,whereIsaw,themomentitwastoo
late,Ishouldhavetakenadvantageofmorespacetoshoothim.

Frightsucceededconsternation,andIbegantotremble.Thelionwas
masterofthesituation.WhatwouldhappenwhenIcametothe

147
narrow
pointontheshelfwhereitwouldbeimpossibleformetoback
around?
Ialmostfainted.ThethoughtofheroicDonsavedme,andtheweak
momentpassed.

ByGod,Don,youvegotthenerve,andImusthaveittoo!

Istoppedinmytracks.Thelion,appearinghugenow,tookslow
catlikestepstowardme,backingDonalmostagainstmyknees.He
was
socloseIsmelthim.Hiswonderfuleyes,clearbluefirecircledby
yellowflame,fascinatedme.HuggingthewallwithmybodyI
brought
therevolverup,shortarmed,andwithclinchedteeth,andnerve
strainedtothebreakingpoint,Iaimedbetweentheeyesandpulled
thetrigger.

Thelefteyeseemedtogooutblankly,thenfollowedthebellowofthe
revolverandthesmellofpowder.Thelionutteredasoundthatwasa
minglingofsnarls,howlsandroarsandherosestraightup,towering
highovermyhead,beatingthewallheavilywithhispaws.

InhelplessterrorIstoodthereforgettingweapon,fearingonlythe
beastwouldfalloveronme.

Butindeathagonyheboundedoutfromthewalltofallintospace.

Isankdownontheshelf,legspowerless,bodyincoldsweat.AsI
waited,slowlymymindfreeditselffromatightironbandanda
sickeningrelieffilledmysoul.TenselyIwaitedandlistened.Don
whinedonce.

Wouldthelionneverstrike?Whatseemedalongperiodoftime
ended

148
inalow,distantroarofslidingrock,quicklydyingintothesolemn
stillnessofthecanyon.

XI

Ilaythereforsomemomentsslowlyrecovering,eyesonthefar
distantescarpments,nowdarklyredandrepellenttome.WhenIgot
up
mylegswerestillshakyandIhadthestrange,weaksensationofa
longbedriddeninvalid.ThreeattemptswerenecessarybeforeIcould
trustmyselfonthenarrowstripofshelf.Butoncearounditwiththe
perilpassed,Ibracedupandsoonreachedtheturninthewall.

AfterthattheascentoutoftheBaywasonlyamatterofwork,which
Igavewithawill.Dondidnotevinceanydesireformorehunting
thatday.Wereachedtherimtogether,andafterashortrest,I
mountedmyhorse,andweturnedforcamp.

ThesunhadlongslantedtowardthewesternhorizonwhenIsawthe
bluesmokeofourcampfireamongthepines.Thehoundsroseup
and
barkedasDontrottedintotheblaze,andmycompanionsjustsitting
toadinner,gavemeanoisygreeting.

Shore,wedbegantogetworried,saidJim.Weallhaditcominto
ustoday,anddontyouforgetthat.

Dinnerlastedforalonghour.Besidesbeinghalffamishedweall
tooktimebetweenbitestotalk.Itoldmystoryfirst,expectingmy
friendstobeoverwhelmed,buttheywerenot.

ItsbeenthegreatestdayoflionhuntingthatIeverexperienced,
declaredJones.Weranbangintoanestoflionsandtheysplit.We
allsplitandthehoundssplit.Thattellsthetale.Wehavenothing

149
toshowforourdaystoil.Sixlionschased,roundedup,treed,
holed,andonelionkilled,andwehaventevenhisskintoshow.I
didnotgodownbutIhelpedRangerandtwoofthepupschasealion
alloverthelowerendoftheplateau.WetreedhimtwiceandIyelled
foryoufellowstillmyvoicewasgone.

Well,saidEmett,IfellinwithSounderandJude.Theywerehoton
atrailwhichinamileortwoturnedupthisway.Icameonthemjust
attheedgeofthepineswheretheyhadtreedtheirgame.Isatunder
thatpinetreeforfivehours,firedallmyshotstomakeyoufellows
come,yelledmyselfhoarseandthentriedtotieupthelionalone.He
jumpedoutandranovertherim,whereneitherInorthedogscould
follow.

Shore,Iwin,threeofakind,drawledJim,ashegothispipeand
carefullydustedthebowl.Whenthestampedecame,Igotmyhands
on
Mozeandheldhim.IheldMozebecausejustastheotherhounds
broke
looseovertomyright,Isawdownintoalittlepocketwherea
freshkilleddeerlayhalfeaten.SoIwentdown.Ifoundtwoother
carcasseslayinthere,freshkilledlastnight,fleshallgone,hide
gone,bonescrushed,skullsplitopen.Andamnmefellows,ifthat
littlepocketwasntalltorntopieces.Thesagewascrushedflat.
Thegrounddugup,deadsnagsbroken,andbloodandhair
everywhere.
Liontrackslikeleaves,andoldSultanswasthere.IletMozeloose
andhehumpedthetrailofseverallionssouthovertherim.Majorgot
downfirstancamebackwithhistailbetweenhislegs.Mozewent
downandIkeptclosetohim.Itwasntfardown,butsteepandrocky,
fullofholes.Mozetookthetrailtoadarkcave.Isawthetracksof
threelionsgoinin.ThenIcollaredMozeanwaitedforyoufellows.
Iwaitedthereallday,annobodycametomycall.ThenImadefor
camp.

150
Howdoyouaccountforthetornupappearanceoftheplacewhere
you
foundthecarcasses?Iasked.

Lionfightsure,repliedJones.MaybeoldSultanranacrossthe
threelionsfeeding,andpitchedintothem.Suchfightswerecommon
amongthelionsinYellowstoneParkwhenIwasthere.

WhatchancehavewetofindthosethreelionsinacavewhereJim
chasedthem?

Westandagoodchance,saidJones.Especiallyifitstorms
tonight.

Shorethesnowstormiscomin,returnedJim.

Darknessclappeddownonussuddenly,andthewindroaredinthe
pines
likeamightyrivertearingitswaydownarockypass.Aswecould
not
controlthecampfire,sparksofwhichblewfiercely,weextinguished
itandwenttobed.Ihadjustsettledmyselfcomfortablytobesung
tosleepbytheconcertinthepines,whenJoneshailedme.

Say,whatdoyouthink?heyelled,whenIhadansweredhim.
Emett
ismad.Hesscratchingtobeattheband.Hesgotem.

Isignalledhisinformationwithaloudwhoopofvictory.

Younext,Jones!Theyrecomingtoyou!

Iheardhimgrumbleovermyhappyanticipation.Jimlaughedandso
didtheNavajo,whichmademesuspectthathecouldunderstand
more

151
Englishthanhewantedustosuppose.

Nextmorningamerryyelldisturbedmyslumbers.Snowedin
snowed
in!

Muchasnowdiscassnocougiedamnobueno!exclaimedNavvy.

WhenIpeepedouttoseetheforestinthethroesofablinding
blizzard,thegreatpinesonlypale,grotesqueshadows,everything
whitemantledinafootofsnow,IemphasizedtheIndianwordsin
straightEnglish.

Muchsnowcoldnocougarbad!

Stayinbed,yelledJones.

Allright,Ireplied.SayJones,haveyougotemyet?

Hevouchsafedmenoanswer.Iwenttosleepthenanddozedoffand
on
tillnoon,whenthestormabated.Wehaddinner,orratherbreakfast,
roundablazingbonfire.

Itsgoingtoclearup,saidJim.

Theforestarounduswasasomberandgloomyplace.Thecloudthat
had
envelopedtheplateauliftedandbegantomove.Ithitthetreetops,
sometimesrollingalmosttotheground,thenrisingabovethetrees.
Atfirstitmovedslowly,rolling,forming,expanding,bloominglike
acolumnofwhirlinggraysmoke;thenitgatheredheadwayand
rolled
onwardthroughtheforest.Agray,gloomycurtain,movingand
rippling,splitbythetrees,seemedtobepassingoverus.Itrose

152
higherandhigher,tosplitupingreatglobes,torollapart,showing
glimpsesofbluesky.

Shaftsofgoldensunshineshotdownfromtheserifts,dispellingthe
shadowsandgloom,movinginpathsofgoldthroughtheforest
glade,
gleamingwithbrilliantlycoloredfirefromthesnowwreathedpines.

Thecloudrolledawayandthesunshonehot.Thetreesbegantodrip.
Amistofdiamondsfilledtheair,rainbowscurvedthroughevery
glade
andfeatheredpatchesofsnowfloateddown.

Agreatbankofsnow,slidingfromthepineoverheadalmostburied
theNavajo,toourinfinitedelight.Weallsoughttheshelterofthe
tents,andsleepagainclaimedus.

Iawokeaboutfiveoclock.Thesunwaslow,makingcrimsonpathsin
thewhiteaislesoftheforest.Acoldwindpromisedafrostymorning.

Tomorrowwillbethedayforlions,exclaimedJones.

Whilewehuggedthefire,Navvybroughtupthehorsesandgave
them
theiroats.Thehoundssoughttheirshelterandthelionslayhidden
intheirbedsofpine.Theroundredsundroppedoutofsightbeyond
thetrees,apinkglowsuffusedalltheridges;blueshadowsgathered
inthehollow,shadedpurpleandstoleupward.Abrieftwilight
succeededtoadark,coldlystarlitnight.

Onceagain,whenIhadcrawledintothewarmholeofmysleeping
bag,
wasIhailedfromtheothertent.

Emettcalledmetwice,andasIanswered,IheardJonesremonstrating

153
inalowvoice.

Shore,Joneshasgotem!yelledJim.Hecantkeepitasecretno
longer.

Hey,Jones,Icried,doyourememberlaughingatme?

No,Idont,growledJones.

Listentothis:Hawhaw!haw!haw!hoho!hoho!bueno!bueno!
andI
woundupwithastringofhi!hi!hi!hi!hi!

Thehoundsroseupinabodyandbegantoyelp.

Liedown,pups,Icalledtothem.Nothingdoingforyou.Itsonly
Joneshasgotem.

XII

Whenwetroopedoutofthepinesnextmorning,thesun,rising
gloriouslybright,hadalreadytakenoffthekeenedgeofthefrosty
air,presagingawarmday.Thewhiteridgesglistened;thebunchesof
sagescintillated,andthecedars,tippedinsnow,resembledtrees
withbrilliantblossoms.

WelostnotimeridingforthemouthofLeftCanyon,intowhichJim
hadtrailedthethreelions.Onthewaythesnow,aswehadexpected,
begantothinout,anditfailedaltogetherunderthecedars,though
therewasenoughonthebranchestogiveusadrenching.

Jimreinedinonthevergeofanarrowgorge,andinformedusthe
cave
wasbelow.JoneslookedthegroundoverandsaidJimhadbetter

154
takethehoundsdownwhiletherestofusremainedabovetoawait
developments.

Jimwentdownonfoot,callingthehoundsandholdingthemclose.
We
listenedeagerlyforhimtoyellorthepacktoopenup,butwewere
disappointed.InlessthanhalfanhourJimcameclimbingout,with
theinformationthatthelionshadleftthecave,probablytheevening
afterhehadchasedthemthere.

Well,then,saidJones,letssplitthepack,andhuntroundthe
rimsofthesecanyons.Wecansignaltoeachotherifnecessary.

SowearrangedforJimtotakeRangerandthepupsacrossLeft
Canyon;
EmetttotryMiddleCanyon,withDonandMoze,andwewereto
perform
alikeofficeinRightCanyonwithSounderandJude.Emettrodeback
withus,leavinguswherewecrossedMiddleCanyon.

JonesandIrimmedamileofourcanyonandworkedoutalmostto
the
westendoftheBay,withoutfindingsomuchasasingletrack,sowe
startedtoretraceourway.Thesunwasnowhot;thesnowallgone;
thegrounddryasifithadneverbeendamp;andJonesgrumbledthat
nosuccesswouldattendoureffortsthismorning.

WereachedtheraggedmouthofRightCanyon,whereitopenedinto
the
deep,wideBay,andbecausewehopedtohearourcompanionsacross
the
canyon,werodeclosetotherim.SounderandJudebothbeganto
bark
onacliff;however,aswecouldfindnotracksinthedustwecalled
themoff.Sounderobeyedreluctantly,butJudewantedtogetdown

155
over
thewall.

Theyscentalion,averredJones.Letsputthemoverthewall.

Oncepermittedtogo,thehoundsneedednoassistance.Theyranup
anddowntherimtilltheyfoundacrack.Hardlyhadtheygoneout
ofsightwhenweheardthemyelping.Werushedtotherimand
looked
over.Thefirststepwasshort,acrumbledsectionofwall,andfrom
itleddownalongslope,dottedhereandtherewithcedars.Both
houndswerebayingfuriously.

IspiedJudewithherpawsuponacedar,andaboveherhungalion,
soclosethatshecouldnearlyreachhim.Sounderwasnotyetin
sight.

There!There!Icried,directingJonesglance.Arewenotlucky?

Isee.ByGeorge!Come,wellgodown.Leaveeverythingthatyou
dontabsolutelyneed.

Spurs,chaps,gun,coat,hat,Ileftontherim,takingonlymycamera
andlasso.Ihadforgottentobringmycanteen.Wedescendedaladder
ofshalycliff,thestepsofwhichbrokeunderourfeet.Theslope
belowuswaseasy,andsoonwestoodonalevelwiththelion.The
cedarwassmall,andaffordednogoodplaceforhim.Evidentlyhe
jumpedfromtheslopetothetree,andhadhungwherehefirst
alighted.

WheresSounder?Lookforhim.Ihearhimbelow.Thislionwont
stay
treedlong.

I,too,heardSounder.Thecedartreeobstructedmyview,andI

156
moved
aside.Ahundredfeetfartherdownthehoundbayedunderatall
pion.
HighinthebranchesIsawagreatmassofyellow,andatfirstglance
thoughtSounderhadtreedoldSultan.HowIyelled!Thenasecond
glanceshowedtwolionsclosetogether.

Twomore!twomore!look!look!IyelledtoJones.

Hi!Hi!Hi!hejoinedhisrobustyelltomine,andforamomentwe
madethecanyonbellow.Whenwestoppedforbreaththeechoes
bayedat
usfromtheoppositewalls.

Waahoo!Emettssignal,faint,faraway,soaringbutunmistakable,
floateddowntous.Acrossthejuttingcapesseparatingthemouthsof
thesecanyons,highabovethemontherimwalloftheoppositesideof
theBay,stoodagiantwhitehorsesilhouettedagainstthewhite
sky.Theymadeabravepicture,onemostwelcometous.Weyelledin
chorus:Threelionstreed!Threelionstreed!comedownhurry!

Acrashofrollingstonesmadeuswheel.Judeslionhadjumped.He
ranstraightdown,drawingSounderfromhisguard.Judewent
tearing
afterthem.

Illfollow;youstayhere.Keepthemupthere,ifyoucan!yelled
Jones.Theninlongstrideshepasseddownoutofsightamongthe
treesandcrags.

IthadallhappenedsoquicklythatIcouldscarcelyrealizeit.The
yelpingofthehounds,theclatteringofstones,grewfainter,telling
meJudeandSounder,withJones,weregoingtothebottomofthe
Bay.

157
Bothlionssnarlingatmebroughtmetoakeenappreciationofthe
factsinthecase.Twofullgrownlionstobekepttreedwithout
hounds,withoutacompanion,withoutagun.

Thisisfine!Thisisfunny!Icried,andforamomentIwantedto
run.Butthesamegrim,deadlyfeelingthathadtakenmewithDon
aroundthenarrowshelfnowroseinmestrongerandfiercer.I
pronouncedonesavagemaledictionuponmyselfforleavingmygun.
I
couldnotgoforit;Iwouldhavetomakethebestofmyerror,andin
thewildnessbornofthemomentIsworeifthelionswouldstaytreed
forthehoundstheywouldstaytreedforme.

FirstIphotographedthemfromdifferentpositions;thenItookupmy
standaboutonalevelwiththeminanopenplaceontheslopewhere
theyhadmeinplainsight.Imighthavebeenfiftyfeetfromthem.
Theyshowednoinclinationtocomedown.

AboutthismomentIheardhoundsbelow,comingdownfromtheleft.
I
calledandcalled,buttheypassedondownthecanyonbottominthe
directionJoneshadtaken.

Presentlyachorusofbays,emphasizedbyJonesyell,toldmehis
lionhadtreedagain.

Waahoo!rolleddownfromabove.

IsawEmettfarthertotheleftfromthepointwherehehadjust
appeared.

WherecanIgetdown?

IsurveyedthewallsoftheBay.Cliffoncliff,slideonslide,
jumble,crag,andruin,baffledmygaze.ButIfinallypickedouta

158
path.

Farthertotheleft,Iyelled,andwaited.Hepassedon,Donathis
heels.

There,Iyelledagain,stopthere;letDongodownwithyourlasso,
andcomeyourself.

Iwatchedhimswingthehounddownawall,andpulltheslipnoose
free.Donslidtotheedgeofaslope,trottedtotherightandleft
ofcrags,threadedthenarrowplaces,andturnedinthedirectionof
thebayinghounds.Hepassedonthevergeofprecipicesthatmade
me
trembleforhim;butsurefootedasagoat,hewentonsafelydown,to
disappearfartomyright.

ThenIsawEmettsliding,legwrappedaroundhislasso,downthe
first
stepoftherim.Hislasso,doubledsoastoreachroundacedar
above,wastooshorttoextendtothelandingbelow.Hedropped,
raisingacloudofdust,andstartingthestones.Pullingoneendof
hislassouparoundthecedarhegathereditinacoilonhisarmand
facedforward,followingDonstrail.

Whatstrideshetook!Intheclearlight,withthatwildredand
yellowbackground,withthestonesandgravelroaringdown,
streaming
overthewallslikewaterfalls,heseemedagiantpursuingafoe.From
timetotimehesentupayellofencouragementthatwounddownthe
canyon,tobeansweredbyJonesandthebayinghoundsandthenthe
strangeechoes.Atlasthepassedoutofsightbehindthecrestsof
thetrees;Iheardhimgoingdown,downtillthesoundscameupfaint
andhollow.

Iwasleftabsolutelyalonewithmytwolionsandneverdidahunter

159
sodelightinasituation.Isatthereinthesunwatchingthem.Fora
longtimetheywerequiet,listening.Butasthebaysandyellsbelow
diminishedinvolumeandoccurrenceandthenceasedaltogether,
they
becamerestless.ItwasthenthatI,rememberingthelionIhadheld
ontopofthecrag,begantobarklikeahound.Thelionsbecamequiet
oncemore.

Ibayedthemforanhour.Myvoicegrewfromhoarsetohoarser,and
finallyfailedinmythroat.Thelionsimmediatelygrewrestless
again.Theloweronehissed,spatandgrowledatme,andmademany
attemptstostartdown,eachoneofwhichIfrustratedbythrowing
stonesunderthetree.Atlengthhemadeonemoredeterminedeffort,
turnedheaddownward,andsteppedfrombranchtobranch.

Idasheddowntheinclinewithastoneinonehandandalongclubin
theother.InstinctivelyIknewImusthurthimmakehimfearme.
Ifhegotfarenoughdowntojump,hewouldeitherescapeorhaveme
helpless.Iaimeddeliberatelyathim,andhithimsquareintheribs.
Heexplodedinaspitroarthatraisedmyhair.DirectlyunderhimI
wieldedmyclub,poundedonthetree,thrashedatthebranchesand,
likethecrazyfoolthatIwas,yelledathim:

Goback!Goback!Dontyoudarecomedown!Idbreakyourold
head
foryou!

Foolishornot,thismeanseffectuallystoppedthedescent.Heclimbed
tohisfirstperch.Itwasthen,realizingwhatIhaddone,thatI
wouldcertainlyhavemadetracksfromunderthepion,ifIhadnot
heardthefaintyelpofahound.

Ilistened.Itcameagain,faintbutclearer.Ilookedupatmylions.
Theytooheard,fortheywereverystill.Isawhowstrainedtheyheld
theirheads.Ibackedalittlewayuptheslope.Thenthefaintyelp

160
floatedupagaininthesilence.Suchdead,strangesilence,that
seemednevertohavebeenbroken!Isawthelionsquiver,andifI
everheardanythinginmylifeIheardtheirheartsthump.Theyelp
waftedupagain,closerthistime.Irecognizedit;itbelongedto
Don.Thegreathoundonthebacktrailoftheotherlionwascomingto
myrescue.

ItsDon!ItsDon!ItsDon!Icried,shakingmyclubatthelions.
Itsallupwithyounow!Whatfeelingsstirredmethen!Pityfor
thoselionsdominatedme.Big,tawny,cruelfellowsastheywere,they
shiveredwithfright.Theirsidestrembled.Butpitydidnotholdme
long;Donsyelp,nowgettingclearandsharp,broughtbacktherush
ofsavage,grimsensations.

Afulltonedbayattractedmyattentionfromthelionstothe
downward
slope.Isawayellowformmovingunderthetreesandclimbingfast.
ItwasDon.

Hi!Hi!oldboy!Iyelled.

Thenitseemedhemoveduplikeashotandstoodallhislonglength,
forepawsagainstthepion,hisdeepbayringingdefiancetothe
lions.

Itwasagreatrelief,nottosayaprobablenecessity,formetosit
downjustthen.

Nowcomedown,Isaidtomylions;youcantcatchthathound,
and
youcantgetawayfromhim.

Momentspassed.Iwasjustonthepointofdecidingtogodownto
hurryupmycomrades,whenIheardtheotherhoundscoming.Yelp
on

161
yelp,bayonbay,madewelcomemusictomyears.Thenablackand
yellow,swiftlyflyingstringofhoundsboreintosightdownthe
slope,streakedupandcircledthepion.

Jones,whoatlastshowedhistallstoopingformonthesteepascent,
seemedaslongincomingasthehoundshadbeenswift.

Didyougetthelion?WheresEmett?Iaskedinbreathless
eagerness.

Liontiedallfast,repliedthepantingJones.LeftEmettto
guardhim.

Whatarewetodonow?

WaittillIgetmybreath.Thinkoutaplan.Wecantgetboth
lionsoutofonetree.

Allright,Ireplied,afteramomentsthought.IlltieSounder
andMoze.Yougoupthetree.Thatfirstlionwilljump,sure;hes
almostreadynow.Donandtheotherhoundswilltreehimagain
pretty
soon.Ifherunsupthecanyon,wellandgood.Then,ifyoucanget
thelassoontheother,IllyellforEmetttocomeuptohelpyou,
andIllfollowDon.

Jonesbegantheascentofthepion.Thebrancheswerenottooclose,
affordinghimeasyclimbing.Beforewelookedforevenamoveonthe
partofthelions,theloweronebegansteppingdown.Iyelleda
warning,butJonesdidnothavetimetotakeadvantageofit.Hehad
halfturned,meaningtoswingoutanddrop,whenthelionplanted
both
forepawsuponhisback.Joneswentsprawlingdownwiththelion
almost
onhim.

162

Donhadhisteethinthelionbeforehetouchedtheground,andwhen
hedidstriketherestofthehoundswereonhim.Acloudofdust
rolleddowntheslope.Thelionbrokelooseandwithgreat,springy
boundsranupthecanyon,Donandhisfollowershotfootingitafter
him.

MozeandSounderbrokethedeadsaplingtowhichIhadtiedthem,
and
draggingitbehindthem,endeavoredinfrenziedactiontojointhe
chase.Idrewthemback,looseningtherope,soincasetheotherlion
jumpedIcouldfreethemquickly.

Jonescalmlygatheredhimselfup,rearrangedhislasso,tookhislong
stick,andproceededtomountthepionagain.IwaitedtillIsawhim
slipthenooseoverthelionshead,thenIrandowntheslopeto
yellforEmett.Heansweredatonce.ItoldhimtohurrytoJones
assistance.WiththatIheadedupthecanyon.

Ihungclosetothebroadtrailleftbythelionandhispursuers.I
passedperilouslynearthebrinkofprecipices,butfearofthemwas
notinmethatday.IpassedoutoftheBayintothemouthofLeft
Canyon,andbegantoclimb.Thebayingofthehoundsdirectedme.In
theboxofyellowwallsthechorusseemedtocomefromahundred
dogs.

WhenIfoundthem,closetoalowcliff,bayingthelioninathick,
darkpion,RangerleapedintomyarmsandnextDonstoodup
against
mewithhispawsonmyshoulders.Thesewerestrangeactions,and
thoughImarkeditatthemoment,Ihadceasedtowonderatour
hounds.Itookonepictureasthelionsatinthedarkshade,andthen
climbedtothelowcliffandsatdown.IcalledDontomeandheld
him.IncaseourquarryleapeduponthecliffIwantedahoundtoput
quicklyonhistrail.

163

Anotherhourpassed.Itmusthavebeenadarkhourforthelionhe
lookedasifitwereandoneofimpatienceforthebayinghounds,but
formeitwasafullhour.Alonewiththehoundsandalion,farfrom
thewalksofmen,walledinbythewildcoloredcliffs,withthedry,
sweetsmellofcedarandpion,Iaskednomore.

SounderandMoze,vociferouslyventingtheirarrival,were
forerunners
toJones.Isawhisgraylockswavinginthebreeze,andyelledfor
himtotakehistime.Ashereachedmethelionjumpedandranupthe
canyon.Thissuitedme,forIknewhewouldtaketoatreesoonand
thefartheruphewentthelessdistancewewouldhavetopackhim.
FromthecliffIsawhimrunupaslope,passabigcedar,cunningly
turnonhistrail,andthenclimbintothetreeandhideinits
thickestpart.Donpassedhim,gotoffthetrail,andranatfault.
Theothers,sousedtohisleadership,werealsobaffled.ButJude,
crippledandslow,broughtuptherear,andshedidnotgoayard
beyondwherethelionturned.Sheopenedupherdeepcallunderthe
cedar,andinamomentthehowlingpackwerearoundher.

JonesandItoiledlaboriouslyupward.Hehadbroughtmylasso,and
hehandedittomewiththesignificantremarkthatIwouldsoonhave
needofit.

Thecedarwasbushyandoverhungayellow,bareslopethatmade
Jones
shakehishead.Heclimbedthetree,lassoedthespittinglionand
thenleapeddowntomyside.Byunitedanddeterminedeffortswe
pulledthelionoffthelimbandlethimdown.Thehoundsbeganto
leapathim.Webothroaredinarageatthembuttonouse.

Holdhimthere!shoutedJones,leavingmewiththelassowhilehe
sprangforward.

164
Theweightoftheanimaldraggedmeforwardand,hadInottakena
halfhitchroundadeadsnag,wouldhaveliftedmeoffmyfeetor
pulledthelassofrommyhands.Asitwas,thechokinglion,now
withinreachofthefurious,leapinghounds,swungtoandfrobefore
myface.Hecouldnotseeme,buthisfranticlungesnarrowlymissed
me.

Ifneverbefore,Jonesthenshowedhisgenius.Donhadholdofthe
lionsflank,andJones,grabbingthehoundbythehindlegs,threw
himdowntheslope.Donfellandrolledahundredfeetbeforehe
caughthimself.ThenJonesthrewoldMozerolling,andRanger,and
all
exceptfaithfulJude.Beforetheycouldgetbackheropedthelion
againandmadefasttoatree.Thenheyelledformetoletgo.The
lionfell.Jonesgrabbedthelasso,atthesametimecallingformeto
stopthehounds.Astheycameboundingupthesteepslope,Ihadto
clubthenoblefellowsintosubmission.

Beforethelionrecoveredwhollyfromhisseverechoking,wehadhis
pawsboundfast.Thenhecouldonlyheavehistawnysides,glareand
spitatus.

Nowwhat?askedJones.Emettiswatchingthesecondlion,which
we
fastenedbychainandlassotoaswingingbranch.Imallin.Myheart
wontstandanymoreclimb.

Yougotocampforthepackhorses,Isaidbriefly.Bringthemall,
andallthepacks,andNavvy,too.IllhelpEmetttieupthesecond
lion,andthenwellpackthembothupheretothisone.Youtakethe
houndswithyou.

Canyoutieupthatlion?askedJones.Mindyou,heslooseexcept
foracollarandchain.Hisclawshaventbeenclipped.Besides,itll
beanawfuljobtopackthosetwolionsuphere.

165

Wecantry,Isaid.Youhustletocamp.Yourhorseisrightupback
ofhere,acrossthepoint,ifIdontmistakemybearings.

Jones,admonishingmeagain,calledthehoundsandwearilyclimbed
the
slope.Iwaiteduntilhewasoutofhearing;thenbegantoretracemy
traildownintothecanyon.Imadethedescentinquicktime,tofind
Emettstandingguardoverthelion.Thebeasthadbeentiedtoan
overhangingbranchthatswungviolentlywitheverymovehemade.

WhenIgothere,saidEmett,hewashangingoverthesideofthat
rock,almostchokedtodeath.Idrovehimintothiscornerbetweenthe
rocksandthetree,wherehehasbeencomparativelyquiet.Now,
whats
up?WhereisJones?Didyougetthethirdlion?

Irelatedwhathadoccurred,andthensaidweweretotiethislion
andpackhimwiththeotheroneupthecanyon,tomeetJonesandthe
horses.

Allright,repliedEmett,withagrimlaugh.Wedbettergetat
it.NowImsomeworriedaboutthelionweleftbelow.Heoughttobe
broughtup,butwebothcantgo.Thislionherewillkillhimself.

Whatwilltheotheroneweigh?

Allofonehundredandfiftypounds.

Youcantpackhimalone.

Illtry,andIreckonthatsthebestplan.Watchthisfellowand
keephiminthecorner.

Emettleftmethen,andIbeganathirdlongvigilbesidealion.The

166
restwasmorethanwelcome.AnhourandahalfpassedbeforeI
heard
theslidingofstonesbelow,whichtoldmethatEmettwascoming.He
appearedontheslopealmostbentdouble,carryingthelion,head
downward,beforehim.Hecouldclimbonlyafewstepswithout
lowering
hisburdenandresting.

Irandowntomeethim.Wesecuredastoutpole,andslippingthis
betweenthelionspaws,belowwheretheyweretied,wemanagedto
carryhimfairlywell,andafterseveralrests,gothimupalongside
theother.

Nowtotiethatrascal!exclaimedEmett.Jonessaidhewasthe
meanestonehedtackled,andIbelieveit.Wellcutapieceoffof
eachlasso,andunravelthemsoastogetstrings.IwishJoneshadnt
tiedthelassotothatswingingbranch.

Illgoanduntieit.ActingonthissuggestionIclimbedthetree
andstartedoutonthebranch.Theliongrowledfiercely.

Imafraidyoudbetterstop,warnedEmett.Thatbranchisbending,
andthelioncanreachyou.

ButdespitethisIslippedoutacoupleofyardsfarther,andhad
almostgottentotheknottedlasso,whenthebranchswayedandbent
alarmingly.Thelionsprangfromhiscornerandcrouchedunderme
snarlingandspitting,witheveryindicationofleaping.

Jump!Jump!Jump!shoutedEmetthoarsely.

Idarednot,forIcouldnotjumpfarenoughtogetoutofthelions
reach.Iraisedmylegsandbegantoslidemyselfbackupthebranch.
Thelionleaped,missingme,butscatteringthedeadtwigs.Thenthe
beast,besidehimselfwithfury,halfleaped,halfstoodup,and

167
reachedforme.Ilookeddownintohisblazingeyes,andopenmouth
andsawhiswhitefangs.

Everythinggrewblurredbeforemyeyes.Idesperatelyfoughtfor
controlovermindandmuscle.IheardhoarseroarsfromEmett.Then
Ifeltahot,burningpaininmywrist,whichstungallmyfaculties
intokeenlifeagain.

Isawthelionsbeakedclawsfastenedinmyleatherwristband.At
thesameinstantEmettdashedunderthebranch,andgraspedthe
lions
tail.Onepowerfullungeofhisbroadshoulderstorethelionloose
andflunghimdowntheslopetothefullextentofhislasso.Quick
asthoughtIjumpeddown,andjustintimetopreventEmettfrom
attackingthelionwiththeheavypolewehadused.

Illkillhim!Illkillhim!roaredEmett.

Noyouwont,Ireplied,quietly,formypainhadservedtosoothe
myexcitementaswellastomakememoredetermined.Welltieup
the
darnedtiger,ifhecutsusalltopieces.YouknowhowJoneswill
giveusthelaughifwefail.Here,bindupmywrist.

MentionofJonesprobableridiculeandsightofmyinjurycooled
Emett.

Itsanastyscratch,hesaid,bindingmyhandkerchiefroundit.
Theleathersavedyourhandfrombeingtornoff.Hesanuglybrute,
butyoureright,welltiehim.Now,letseachtakealassoand
worryhimtillwegetholdofapaw.Thenwecanstretchhimout.

Jonesdidafiendishthingwhenhetiedthatliontotheswinging
branch.Itwasalmostworsethanhavinghimentirelyfree.Hehada
circlealmosttwentyfeetindiameterinwhichhecouldrunandleap

168
atwill.Itseemedhewasintheairallthetime.FirstatEmett,
thanatmehesprang,mouthagape,eyeswild,clawsspread.We
whipped
himwithournooses,butnotonewouldhold.Healwaystoreitoff
beforewecoulddrawittight.Isecuredaprecariousholdononehind
pawandstraightenedmylasso.

Thatsfarenough,criedEmett.Nowholdhimtight;dontlifthim
offtheground.

Ihadbackeduptheslope.Emettfacedthelion,nooseready,waiting
forafavorablechancetoropeafrontpaw.Thelioncrouchedlowand
tense,onlyhislongtaillashingbackandforthacrossmylasso.
Emettthrewtheloopinfrontofthespreadpaws,nowhalfsunkinto
thedust.

Easeup;easeup,saidhe.Illteasehimtojumpintothenoose.

Iletmyropesag.Emettpokedastickintothelionsface.Allat
onceIsawtheslackinthelassowhichwastiedtothelionschain.
BeforeIcouldyelltowarnmycomradethebeastleaped.Myrope
burnedasittorethroughmyhands.Thelionsailedintotheair,his
pawswidespreadlikewings,andoneofthemstruckEmettonthe
head
androlledhimontheslope.Ijerkedbackonmyropeonlytofindit
hadslippeditshold.

Hesluggedmeone,remarkedEmett,calmlyrisingandpickingup
his
hat.Didhebreaktheskin?

No,buthetoreyourhatbandoff,Ireplied.Letskeepathim.

Forafewmomentsoranhournoonewilleverknowhowlongwe
ran

169
roundhim,raisingthedust,scatteringthestones,breakingthe
branches,dodginghisonslaughts.Heleapedatustothefulllength
ofhistether,sailingrightintoourfaces,afierce,uncowed,
tigerishbeast.Ifithadnotbeenforthecollarandswivelhewould
havechokedhimselfahundredtimes.Quickasacat,supple,
powerful,
tireless,hekeptonthego,whirling,bounding,leaping,rolling,
tillitseemedwewouldnevercatchhim.

Ifanythingbreaks,hellgetoneofus,criedEmett.Ifelthis
breaththattime.

Lord!HowIwishwehadsomeofthosefellowsherewhosaylions
are
rankcowards!Iexclaimed.

Inoneofhissweepingsideswingsthelionstrucktherockandhung
thereonitsflatsurfacewithhistailhangingover.

Attracthisattention,shoutedEmett,butdontgettooclose.
Dontmakehimjump.

WhileIslowlymanoeuveredinfrontofthelion,Emettslippedbehind
therock,lungedforthelongtailandgotagoodholdofit.Then
withawhoopheranaroundtherock,carryingthekicking,squalling
lionclearoftheground.

Nowsyourchance,heyelled.Ropeahindfoot!Icanholdhim.

InasecondIhadanoosefastonbothhindpaws,andthenpassedmy
ropetoEmett.WhileheheldthelionIagainclimbedthetree,untied
theknotthathadcausedsomuchtrouble,andveryshortlywehad
our
obstinatecaptivestretchedoutbetweentwotrees.Afterthatwetook
amuchneededbreathingspell.

170

Notveryscientific,growledEmett,bywayofapologizingforour
crudework,butwehadtogethimsomeway.

Emett,doyouknowIbelieveJonesputupajobonus?Isaid.

Well,maybehedid.Wehadthejoballright.Butwellmakeshort
workofhimnow.

Hecertainlywentatitinawaythatalarmedmeandwouldhave
electrifiedJones.WhileIheldthechainEmettmuzzledthelion
withastickandastrandoflasso.Hisbigblacksmithshandsheld,
twistedandtiedwithremorselessstrength.

Nowforthehardestpartofit,saidhe,packinghimup.

Wetoiledanddrudgedupward,restingeveryfewyards,wetwith
sweat,
boilingwithheat,parchingforwater.Weslippedandfell,gotupto
slipandfallagain.Thedustchokedus.Wesenselesslyriskedour
livesonthebrinksofprecipices.Wehadnothoughtsavetogetthe
lionup.Onehourofunremittinglaborsawourtaskfinished,sofar.
Thenwewearilywentdownfortheother.

Thisoneistheheaviest,gloomilysaidEmett.

Wehadtoclimbpartlysidewisewiththepoleinthehollowofour
elbows.Theliondraggedheaddownward,catchinginthebrushand
onthestones.Ourrestsbecamemorefrequent.Emett,whohadthe
downwardendofthepole,andthereforethricetheweight,whistled
whenhedrewbreath.HalfthetimeIsawredmistbeforemyeyes.
How
Ihatedtheslidingstones!

Wait,pantedEmettonce.Youreyoungerthanmewait!

171

ForthatMormongiantusedallhisdaystostrenuoustoil,periland
privationtoaskmetowaitforhim,wasacomplimentwhichI
valued
morethananyIhadeverreceived.

Atlastwedroppedourburdenintheshadeofacedarwherethe
otherlionslay,andwestretchedourselves.Along,sweetrestcame
abruptlytoendwithEmettsnextwords.

Thelionsarechoking!Theyredyingofthirst!Wemusthavewater!

Oneglanceatthepoor,gasping,frothingbeasts,provedtomethe
natureofourextremity.

Waterinthisdesert!Wherewillwefindit?Oh!why,didIforgetmy
canteen!

Afterallourhopes,ourefforts,ourtragedies,andfinallyour
wonderfulgoodfortune,tolosethesebeautifullionsforlackofa
littlewaterwassickening,maddening.

Thinkquick!criedEmett.Imnogood;Imallin.Butyoumust
findwater.Itsnowedyesterday.Thereswatersomewhere.

Intomymindflashedapictureofthemanylittlepocketsbeatenby
rainsintotheshelvesandpromontoriesofthecanyonrim.Withthe
thoughtIwasonthejump.Iran;Iclimbed;Iseemedtohavewings;I
reachedtherim,andhurriedalongitwitheagergaze.Iswungdown
on
acedarbranchtoaprojectingpointofrock.Smalldepressionswere
everywherestilldamp,butthewaterhadevaporated.ButIwouldnot
giveup.Ijumpedfromrocktorock,andclimbedoverscalyledges,
andsettonsofyellowshaleintomotion.AndIfoundonaragged
promontorymanylittle,roundholes,someafootdeep,allfullof

172
clearwater.UsingmyhandkerchiefasaspongeIfilledmycap.

Thenbeganmyjourneydown.Icarriedthecapwithbothhandsand
balancedmyselflikeatightropeperformer.Izigzaggedtheslopes;
slippedoverstones;leapedfissuresandtraversedyellowslides.
Isafelydescendedplacesthatinanordinarymomentwouldhave
presentedinsurmountableobstacles,andburstdownuponEmett
withan
Indianyelloftriumph.

Good!ejaculatedhe.IfIhadnotknownitalready,thewayhisface
changedwouldhavetoldmeofhisloveforanimals.Hegraspeda
lion
bytheearsandheldhisheadup.Isaturatedmyhandkerchiefand
squeezedthewaterintohismouth.Hewheezed,coughed,choked,
butto
ourjoyheswallowed.Hehadtoswallow.Oneaftertheotherwe
served
themso,seeingwithunmistakablereliefthesuresignsofrecovery.
Theireyesclearedandbrightened;thedrycoughingthatdistressedus
soceased;thefrothcamenomore.Thesavagefellowthathadfought
ustoastandstill,andforwhichwehadnamedhimSpitfire,raised
hishead,thegoldinhisbeautifuleyesdarkenedtofireandhe
growledhisreturntolifeanddefiance.

EmettandIsankbackinunutterablerelief.

Waahoo!Jonesyellcame,breakingthewarmquietoftheslope.
Ourcomradeappearedridingdown.ThevoiceoftheIndian,calling
to
Marc,mingledwiththeringingofironshodhoofsonthestones.

Jonessurveyedthesmalllevelspotintheshadeofthecedars.He
gazedfromthelionstous,hissternfacerelaxed,andhisdrylaugh
cracked.

173

Doggoneme,ifyoudidntdoit!

XIII

AstrangeprocessionsoonemergedfromLeftCanyonandstrangerto
us
thanthelionheadsbobbingoutofthealfagoeswasthesightofNavvy
ridinginfrontofthelions.Ikeptwellintherear,forifanything
happened,whichIcalculatedwasmorethanlikely,Iwantedtosee
it.Beforewehadreachedtheoutskirtsofpines,Iobservedthatthe
pieceoflassoaroundSpitfiresnosehadworkedloose.

JustasIwasabouttomakethisknowntoJones,thelionopeneda
cornerofhismouthandfastenedhisteethintheNavajosoveralls.
Hedidnotcatchtheflesh,forwhenNavvyturnedaroundhewore
only
anexpressionofcuriosity.ButwhenhesawSpitfirechewinghimhe
utteredashrillscreamandfellsidewiseoffhishorse.

Thentwodifficultiespresentedthemselvestous,tocatchthe
frightenedhorseandpersuadetheIndianhehadnotbeenbitten.We
failedinthelatter.Navvygaveusandthelionsawideberth,and
walkedtocamp.

Jimwaswaitingforus,andsaidhehadchasedalionsouthalongthe
rimtillthehoundsgotawayfromhim.

Spitfire,havingalreadybeenchained,wasthefirstlionwe
endeavoredtointroducetoourfamilyofcaptives.Heraisedsucha
fearfulrowthatwehadtoremovehimsomedistancefromtheothers.

Wehavetwodogchains,saidJones,butnotacollaroraswivel
incamp.Wecantchainthelionswithoutswivels.Theydchoke

174
themselvesintwominutes.

Oncemore,forthehundredthtime,Emettcametoourrescuewithhis
inventiveandmechanicalskill.Hetookthelargestpairofhobbleswe
had,andwithanaxe,aknifeandJoneswirenippers,fashionedtwo
collarswithswivelsthatforstrengthandserviceablenessimproved
somewhatonthosewehadbought.

Darknesswasenvelopingtheforestwhenwefinishedsupper.Ifell
intomybedand,despitethethrobbingandburningofmywrist,
soonlapsedintoslumber.AndIcrawledoutnextmorninglatefor
breakfast,stiff,wornout,crippled,buthappy.Sixlionsroaringa
concertformewasquiteconducivetocontentment.

Emettinterestinglyengagedhimselfonanewpairoftrousers,which
hehadcontrivedtoproducefromtwoofouremptymealbags.The
lower
halfofhisoverallshadgonetodecoratethecedarspikesandbrush,
andthesenewbaglegtrousers,whilesomewhatremarkablefor
design,
answeredthepurposewellenough.Jonescoatwassomewherealong
the
canyonrim,hisshoeswerefullofholes,hisshirtinstrips,andhis
trousersinrags.Jimlookedlikeascarecrow.Myclothes,beingof
heavywaterproofedduck,hadstoodthehardusageinamannerto
bring
forththeunanimousadmirationofmycompanions.

Well,fellows,saidJones,theressixlions,andthatsmorethan
wecanpackoutofhere.Haveyouhadenoughhunting?Ihave.

AndI,rejoinedEmett.

ShoreyoucanbetIhave,drawledJim.

175
Onemoreday,boys,andthenIvedone,saidI.Onlyonemore
day!

Signsofreliefonthefacesofmygoodcomradesshowedhowthey
took
thisevidenceofmysatisfiedambition.

Ispentalltheafternoonwiththelions,photographingthem,
listeningtothemspitandgrowl,watchingthemfighttheirchains,
androlluplikeballsoffire.FromdifferentpartsoftheforestI
triedtocreepunsuspecteduponthem;butalwayswhenIpeepedout
frombehindatreeorlog,everypairofearswouldbeerect,every
pairofeyesgleamingandsuspicious.

Spitfireaffordedmoreamusementthanalltheothers.Hehadindeed
thetemperofaking;hehadbeenbornforsovereignty,notslavery.
Tointimidatemehetriedeverymannerofexpressionandutterance,
andfailing,healwaysendedwithaspringintheairtothelengthof
hischain.Thismeanswasalwayseffective.Isimplycouldnotstand
stillwhenheleaped;andinturnItriedeveryartificeIcouldthink
oftomakehimbackawayfromme,totakerefugebehindhistree.I
ranathimwithaclubasifIweregoingtokillhim.Hewaited,
crouching.Finally,indireextremity,Ibethoughtmeofaredflannel
hoodthatEmetthadgivenme,sayingImightuseitoncoldnights.
Thiswasindeedaweird,flamingheadgear,fallinglikeacloakdown
overtheshoulders.Iputiton,and,camerainhand,startedtocrawl
onallfourstowardSpitfire.

Ineedednoonetotellmethatthisproceedingwasentirelybeyond
hiscomprehension.Inhisastonishmentheforgottospitandgrowl,
andhebackedbehindthelittlepine,fromwhichheregardedmewith
growingperplexity.Then,havingrevengedmyselfonhim,and
gettinga
picture,Ilefthiminpeace.

176

XIV

Iawokebeforedawn,andlaywatchingthedarkshadowschangeinto
gray,andgrayintolight.TheNavajochantedsolemnlyandlowhis
morningsong.Igotupwiththekeeneagernessofthehunterwho
faces
thelastdayofhishunt.

Iwarmedmyfrozenfingersatthefire.Ahotbreakfastsmokedonthe
redcoals.WeatewhileNavvyfedandsaddledthehorses.

Shore,theyllbesomethindointoday,saidJim,fatalistically.

Wehaventcrippledahorseyet,putinEmetthopefully.Donledthe
packandusdowntheridge,outofthepinesintothesage.Thesun,a
redball,glaredoutoftheeasternmist,sheddingadullglowon
therampartsofthefarcanyonwalls.Aherdofwhitetaileddeer
scatteredbeforethehounds.Bluegrousewhirredfromunderour
horsesfeet.

Spreadout,orderedJones,andthoughhemeantthehounds,weall
followedhissuggestion,asthewisestcourse.

Rangerbegantoworkupthesageridgetotheright.Jones,Emett
andIfollowed,whileJimrodeawaytotheleft.Graduallythespace
widened,andaswenearedthecedars,asharplydefined,deep
canyon
separatedus.

WeheardDonopenup,thenSounder.Rangerleftthetrailhewas
tryingtoworkoutinthethicksage,andboundedinthedirectionof
therestofthepack.Wereinedintolisten.

FirstDon,thenSounder,thenJude,thenoneofthepupsbayed

177
eagerly,tellingustheywerehuntinghard.Suddenlythebaysblended
inonesavagesound.

Hi!Hi!Hi!crackedthecool,thinair.WesawJimwavehishand
fromthefarsideofthecanyon,spurhishorseintoaction,and
disappearintothecedars.

Stickclosetogether,yelledJones,aswelaunchedforward.Wemade
themistakeofnotgoingbacktocrossthecanyon,forthehoundssoon
wentuptheoppositeside.Aswerodeonandon,thesoundsofthe
chaselessened,andfinallyceased.Toourgreatchagrinwefoundit
necessarytoretraceoursteps,andwhenwedidgetoverthedeep
gully,somuchtimehadelapsedthatwedespairedofcomingupwith
Jim.Emettled,keepingcloseonJimstrail,whichshowedplainin
thedust,andwefollowed.

Upanddownravines,overridges,throughsageflatsandcedar
forests,toandfro,aroundandaround,wetrailedJimandthehounds.
Fromtimetotimeoneofusletoutalongyell.

Iseeabigliontrack,calledJonesonce,andthatstirreduson
faster.FullyanhourpassedbeforeJoneshaltedus,sayingwehad
besttryasignal.Idismounted,whileEmettrolledhisgreatvoice
throughthecedars.

Alongsilenceensued.FromthedepthsoftheforestJimsanswer
struckfaintlyonmyear.WithawordtomycompanionsIleapedon
my
mustangandledtheway.IrodeasfarasIcouldmarkastraightline
withmyeye,thenstoppedtowaitforanothercry.Inthisway,slowly
butsurelyweclosedinonJim.

WefoundhimonthevergeoftheBay,inthesmallgladewhereIhad
leftmyhorsethedayIfollowedDonalonedownthecanyon.Jimwas
engagedinbindingupthelegofhishorse.Thebayingofthehounds

178
floatedupovertherim.

Whatsup?queriedJones.

OldSultan.Thatswhat,repliedJim.Werunplumbintohim.Weve
hadhiminfivetrees.Itaintbeenlongsincehewasinthatcedar
there.Whenhejumpedtheyellowpupwasinthewayangotkilled.
Myhorsejustmanagedtojumpclearofthebiglion,anasitwas,
nearlybrokehisleg.

Emettexaminedthelegandpronounceditbadlystrained,and
advised
Jimtoleadthehorsebacktocamp.JonesandIstoodamomentover
theremainsoftheyellowpup,andpresentlyEmettjoinedus.

Hewasthemostplayfuloneofthepack,saidEmett,andthenhe
placedthelimp,bloodybodyinacrack,andlaidseveralslabsof
stoneoverit.

Hurryaftertheotherhounds,saidJim.Thatlionwillkillthem
onebyone.Anlookoutforhim!

Ifweneededanincentive,thedangerthreateningthehounds
furnished
one;butIcalculatedthedeathofthepupwasenough.Emetthada
flareinhiseye,Joneslookeddarkerandmoregrimthanever,andI
hadsensationsthatbodedilltooldSultan.

Fellows,Isaid,Ivebeendownthisplace,andIknowwherethe
oldbrutehasgone;socomeon.

Ilaidasidemycoat,chapsandrifle,feelingthatthebusinessahead
wassternanddifficult.ThenIfacedthecanyon.Downslopes,among
rocks,underpions,aroundyellowwalls,alongslides,thetwobig
menfollowedmewithheavysteps.Wereachedthewhitestreambed,

179
andsliding,slipping,jumping,alwaysdownanddown,wecameat
last
withinsoundofthehounds.Wefoundthembayingwildlyundera
pion
onthebrinkofthedeepcove.

Then,atonce,weallsawoldSultancloseathand.Hewasofimmense
size;hiscolorwasalmostgray;hisheadhuge,hispawsheavyand
round.Hedidnotspit,norsnarl,norgrowl;hedidnotlookatthe
hounds,butkepthishalfshuteyesuponus.

Wehadnotimetomakeamovebeforehelefthisperchandhitthe
groundwithathud.Hewalkedbythebayinghounds,lookedover
the
brinkofthecove,andwithoutaninstantofhesitation,leapeddown.
Therattlingcrashofslidingstonescameupwithacloudofdust.
Thenwesawhimleisurelypickinghiswayamongtheroughstones.

Exclamationsfromthethreeofusattestedtowhatwethoughtofthat
leap.

Looktheplaceover,calledJones.Ithinkwevegothim.

Thecovewasaholehollowedoutbyrunningwater.Atitshead,
where
theperpendicularwallcurved,theheightwasnotlessthanforty
feet.Thewallsbecamehigherasthecovedeepenedtowardthe
canyon.
Ithadalengthofperhapsahundredyards,andawidthofperhaps
halfasmany.Thefloorwasmassonmassofsplinteredrock.

Letthehoundsdownonalasso,saidJones.

Easiersaidthandone!Sounder,Ranger,Juderefused.OldMoze
grumbledandbrokeaway.ButDon,sternandsavage,allowedJones

180
to
tiehiminaslipnoose.

Itsashametosendthatgrandhoundtohisdeath,protestedEmett.

Wellallgodown,declaredJones.

Wecant.Onewillhavetostayupheretohelptheothertwoout,
repliedEmett.

Yourethestrongest;youstayup,saidJones.Betterworkalong
thewallandseeifyoucanlocatethelion.

WeletDondownintothehole.Hekickedhimselfloosebefore
reaching
thebottomandthen,yelping,hewentoutofsightamongthe
boulders.
Moze,asifashamed,camewhiningtous.Weslippedanoosearound
him
andloweredhim,kickingandbarking,totherockyfloor.Jonesmade
thelassofasttoacedarroot,andIsliddown,likeaflash,burning
myhands.Jonesswunghimselfover,wrappedhislegaroundthe
rope,
andcamedown,tohitthegroundwithathump.Then,lassosin
hands,
webeganclamberingoverthebrokenfragments.

Forafewmomentswewerelosttosightsandsoundsawayfromour
immediatevicinity.Thebottomofthecoveaffordedhardgoing.Dead
pionsandcedarsblockedourway;thegreat,jaggedstonesoffered
no
passage.Wecrawled,climbed,andjumpedfrompiecetopiece.

AyellfromEmetthaltedus.Wesawhimabove,ontheextremepoint
of

181
wall.Wavinghisarms,heyelledunintelligiblecommandstous.The
fiercebayingofDonandMozeaddedtoourdesperateenergy.

Thelastjumbleofsplinteredrockcleared,wefacedaterribleand
wonderfulscene.

Look!Look!IgaspedtoJones.

Awide,barestripofstonelayafewyardsbeneathus;andinthe
centerofthislaststepsatthegreatliononhishauncheswithhis
longtaillashingoutovertheprecipice.Backtothecanyon,he
confrontedthefurioushounds;hisdemeanorhadchangedtooneof
savageapprehension.

WhenJonesandIappeared,oldSultanabruptlyturnedhisbacktothe
houndsandlookeddownintothecanyon.Hewalkedthewhole
lengthof
thebarerockwithhisheadstretchedover.Hewaslookingforaniche
orastepwherebyhemightagaineludehisfoes.

Fasterlashedhistail;fartherandfartherstretchedhisneck.He
stopped,andwithheadbentsofarovertheabyssthatitseemedhe
mustfall,helookedandlooked.

Howgrandlyhefittedthesavagesublimityofthatplace!The
tremendouspurplecanyondepthslaybeneathhim.Hestoodonthe
last
stepofhismightythrone.Thegreatdownwardslopeshadfailedhim.
Majesticallyandslowlyheturnedfromthedeepthatofferednohope.

Asheturned,Jonescastthenooseofhislassoperfectlyroundthe
burlyneck.Sultanroaredandworkedhisjaws,buthedidnotleap.
Jonesmusthaveexpectedsuchamove,forhefastenedhisropetoa
spurofrock.Standingthere,revolvergripped,hearingthebaying
hounds,theroaringlion,andJonesyellsmingledwithEmetts,Ihad

182
noideawhattodo.Iwasinatranceofsensations.

OldSultanranratherthanleapedatus.Jonesevadedtherushby
fallingbehindastone,butstilldidnotgetoutofdanger.Donflew
atthelionsneckandMozeburiedhisteethinaflank.Thenthe
threerolledontherockdangerouslyneartheverge.

Bellowing,Jonesgraspedthelassoandpulled.Stillholdingmy
revolver,Ileapedtohisassistance,andtogetherwepulledand
jerked.Dongotawayfromthelionwithremarkablequickness.But
Moze,slowanddogged,couldnoteludetheoutstretchedpaws,
which
fastenedinhissideandleg.Wepulledsohardweslowlyraisedthe
lion.Moze,neverwhimpering,clawedandscratchedattherockinhis
effortstoescape.Thelionsredtongueprotrudedfromhisdripping
jaws.Weheardtherendofhideasourefforts,combinedwiththoseof
Moze,loosedhimfromthegreatyellowclaws.

Thelion,whirlingandwrestling,rolledovertheprecipice.Whenthe
ropestraightenedwithatwang,haditnotbeenfastenedtotherock,
JonesandIwouldhavejerkedoverthewall.Theshockthrewusto
our
knees.

Foramomentwedidnotrealizethesituation.Emettsyellsawakened
us.

Pull!Pull!Pull!roaredhe.

Then,knowingthatoldSultanwouldhanghimselfinafewmoments,
we
attemptedtolifthim.Jonespulledtillhisbackcracked;Ipulled
tillIsawredbeforemyeyes.Againandagainwetried.Wecouldlift
himonlyafewfeet.Soonexhausted,wehadtodesistaltogether.How
Emettroaredandragedfromhisvantagepointabove!Hecouldsee

183
the
lionindeaththroes.

Suddenlyhequieteddownwiththewords:Allover;allover!Then
he
satstill,lookingintospace.Jonessatmoppinghisbrow.AndI,all
myhotresentmentvanished,layontherock,witheyesonthedistant
mesas.

PresentlyJonesleanedoverthevergewithmylasso.

There,hesaid,Iveropedoneofhishindlegs.Nowwellpullhim
upalittle,thenwellfastenthisrope,andpullontheother.

So,footbyfoot,weworkedtheheavylionupoverthewall.He
musthavebeendead,thoughhissidesheaved.Donsniffedathimin
disdain.Moze,dustyandbloody,withalargestripofhidehanging
fromhisflank,cameupgrowlinglowanddeep,andgavetheliona
lastvengefulbite.

Wevebeenfools,observedJones,meditatively.Theexcitementof
thegamemadeusloseourwits.Illneverropeanotherlion.

Isaidnothing.WhileMozelickedhisbloodylegandDonlaywithhis
fineheadonmyknees,JonesbegantoskinoldSultan.Oncemorethe
strange,infinitesilenceenfoldedthecanyon.Thefaroffgolden
wallsglistenedinthesun;fartherdown,thepurplecleftssmoked.
Themanyhuedpeaksandmesas,alooffromeachother,roseoutof
the
depths.Itwasagrandandgloomysceneofruinwhereevery
glistening
descentofrockwasbutapageofearthshistory.

Itbroughttomymindafaintappreciationofwhattimereallymeant;
itspokeofanageofformermen;itshowedmethelonesomecrags

184
ofeagles,andtheclifflairsoflions;andittaughtmutely,
eloquently,alessonoflifethatmenarestillsavage,stilldriven
byaspirittoroam,tohunt,andtoslay.

CHAPTERIV

TONTOBASIN

Thestartofacampingtrip,thegettingabigoutfittogetherand
packed,andonthemove,isalwaysadifficultandlaborsomejob.
Nevertheless,formethepreparationandtheactualgettingunderway
havealwaysbeenmattersofthrillinginterest.Thisstartofmyhunt
inArizona,September24,1918,wasparticularlymomentousbecause
I
hadbroughtmyboyRomerwithmeforhisfirsttripintothewilds.

Itmaybethattheboywastooyoungforsuchanundertaking.His
motherfearedhewouldbeinjured;histeacherspresagedhisutter
ruin;hisoldnurse,withwhomhewagedwaruntilhewasfreeofher,
averredthatthebestitcoulddoforhimwouldbetoshowwhatkind
ofstuffhewasmadeof.HisuncleR.C.wasstoutlyinfavoroftaking
him.IbelievethebalancefellinRomersfavorwhenIremembered
myownboyhood.AsayoungsterofthreeIhadbabbledofbarsan
buffers,andwovenfantasticandmarveloustalesoffictionaboutmy
imaginedadventuresahabit,alas!Ihaveneveryetoutgrown.

185
AnywayweonlymadesixmilestravelonthisSeptembertwenty
fourth,
andRomerwaswithus.

Indeedhewasomnipresent.Hiskeen,eagerjoycommunicateditself
to
me.Onceherodeupalongsidemeandsaid:Dad,thissgreat,butId
ratherdolikeBuckDuane.Theboyhadreadallofmybooks,inspite
ofparentsandteachers,andheknewthembyheart,andinvariably
likedtheoutlawsandgunmenbestofall.

Wemadecampatsunset,withaflareofgoldalongthewest,andthe
Peaksrisingrosyandcleartothenorth.Wecampedinacutoverpine
forest,wherestumpsandloppedtopsandburneddeadfallsmadean
aspectofblackeneddesolation.Fromadistance,however,thescene
wassuperb.Atsunsettherewasafaintwindwhichsoondiedaway.

MyoldguideonsomanytripsacrossthePaintedDesertwasin
charge
oftheoutfit.Hewasawiry,gray,oldpioneer,overseventyyears,
hollowcheekedandbronzed,withbluegrayeyesstillkeenwithfire.
Hewasnolongerrobust,buthewastirelessandwilling.Whenhe
told
astoryhealwaysbegan:IntheearlydaysHissonLeehadcharge
ofthehorsesofwhichwehadfourteen,twoteamsandtensaddle
horses.Leewasatypicalwesternerofmanyoccupationscowboy,
rider,rancher,cattleman.Hewassmall,thin,supple,quick,tough
andstrong.Hehadabronzedface,alwayschapped,ahookednose,
grayblueeyeslikehisfathers,sharpandkeen.

LeehadengagedtheonlymanhecouldfindforacookJoeIsbel,a
tall,lithecowboy,straightasanIndian,withpowerfulshoulders,
roundlimbs,andslenderwaist,andIsbelwaswhatthewesterners
calledabronchobuster.Hewasaprizewinningrideratall
therodeos.Indeed,hisseatinthesaddlewasindividualand

186
incomparable.Hehadaroughredblueface,hardandrugged,like
the
rocksherodeoversofearlessly,andhiseyeswerebrighthazel,
steadyandhard.Isbelsvernacularwassignificant.Speakingofone
ofourhorseshesaid:Likeamulehellbeyourfriendfortwenty
yearstogitachancetokickyou.Speakingofanotherthathadtobe
shodhesaid:Shore,hellstephightomorrow.Isbelappearedtobe
remarkablyefficientascamprustlerandcook,buthedidnotinspire
mewithconfidence.InspeakingofthistotheDoylesIfoundthem
noncommittalonthesubject.Westernershavesensitivefeelings.I
couldnottellwhethertheywereoffendedornot,andIhalfregretted
mentioningmylackofconfidenceinIsbel.Asitturnedout,however,
Iwasamplyjustified.

SievertNielsen,whomIhavementionedelsewhere,wasthefourthof
my
men.

Darknesshadenvelopedusatsuppertime.Iwastiredout,butthe
redemberedcampfire,thecoolair,thesmellofwoodsmoke,andthe
whitestarskeptmeawakeawhile.Romerhadtobeputtobed.He
was
wildwithexcitement.Wehadhadasleepingbagmadeforhimso
that
oncesnuglyinit,withtheflapsbuckledhecouldnotkickoffthe
blankets.Whenwegothimintoithequieteddownandtook
exceeding
interestinhisfirstbedintheopen.Hedidnot,however,goquickly
tosleep.PresentlyhecalledR.C.overandwhispered:Say,Uncle
Rome,IcoiledalassoanputitunderNielsensbed.Whenhes
asleepyougopullit.HestenderfootlikeDadwas.Hellthinkits
arattlesnake.ThistrickRomermusthaverememberedfromreading
TheLastofthePlainsmen,whereIrelatedwhatBuffaloJones
cowboysdidtome.OnceRomergotthatsecretoffhismindhefell
asleep.

187

Thehourwespentsittingaroundthecampfirewasthemostpleasant
ofthatnight,thoughIdidnotknowitthen.Thesmellofwoodsmoke
andtheglowoflivecoalsstirredmemoriesofothercampfires.Iwas
oncemoreenvelopedbythesweetnessandpeaceoftheopen,
listening
tothesighofthewind,andthefainttinkleofbellsonthehobbled
horses.

Anuncomfortablenightindeeditturnedouttobe.Ourcoverswere
scantyanddidnotnumberamongthemanyblankets.Thebedwas
hardas
arock,andlumpy.Nosleep!Asthenightworeontheairgrewcolder,
andIcouldnotkeepwarm.Atfoura.m.Iheardthehowlingof
coyotesathrillingandwellrememberedwildchorus.Afterthat
perfectstillnessreigned.PresentlyIsawthemorningstarbig,
bluewhite,beautiful.Uncomfortablehoursseemedwellspentifthe
rewardwassightofthemorningstar.Howfewpeopleeverseeit!
How
veryfewevergetaglimpseofitonadesertdawn!

Justthen,aboutfivethirty,Romerwokeupandyelledlustily:Dad!
Mynosesfroze.Thiswasasignalformetolaugh,andalsotorise
heroically.NotdifficultbecauseIwantedtostayinbed,butbecause
Icouldhardlycrawlout!Soonwehadafireroaring.Atsixthedawn
wasstillgray.Coldandnippingair,frostoneverything,palestars,
agoldredlightintheeastwereproofsthatIwasagainintheopen.
SoonarosecoloredflushbeautifiedthePeaks.

Afterbreakfastwehadtroublewiththehorses.Thisalways
happened.
Butitwasmadeworsethismorningbecauseayoungcowboywho
happened
alongtookuponhimselfthetaskofhelpingLee.Isuspectedhe
wanted

188
toshowoffalittle.Inthrowinghislassotoropeone,thenoose
wentovertheheadsoftwo.Thenhetriedtoholdbothanimals.They
draggedhim,pulledthelassooutofhishands,andstampededthe
otherhorses.Thesetworopedtogetherthunderedoffwiththenoose
widening.Iwasafraidtheywouldsplitroundatreeorstump,but
fortunatelythenoosefelloffone.AsallthehorsespoundedoffI
heardRomerremarktoIsbel:Say,Joe,Idontseeanymedalsonthat
cowboy.Isbelroared,andsaid:Wal,Romer,youshorehitthenail,
onthehaid!

Owingtothatstampedewedidnotgetsaddledandstartedtilleleven
oclock.AtfirstIwassosoreandstifffromthehardbedthatI
rodeawhileonthewagonwithDoyle.ManyamileIhadriddenwith
him,andmanyastoryhehadrelated.Thistimehetoldaboutsitting
onajuryatPrescottwheretheybroughtinasevidencebloodyshirts,
overalls,guns,knives,untiltherewassuchapilethatthetable
wouldnotholdthem.Doylewasamineofmemoriesoftheearly
days.

Romersmountwasalittleblack,whitespottedhorsenamedRye.Lee
Doylehadscouredtheranchestogetthisponyfortheyoungster.Rye
wassmallforahorse,aboutthesizeofanIndianmustang,andhe
wasgentle,aswellasstrongandfast.Romerhadbeengivenriding
lessonsallthatsummerintheeast,anduponhisarrivalatFlagstaff
heinformedmethathecouldride.Ipredictedhewouldbeinthe
wagonbeforenoonoftheseconddayout.Heofferedtobetonit.
ItoldhimIdisapprovedofbetting.Heseemedtometobedaring,
adaptable,selfwilled;andIwasdividedbetweenprideandanxiety
as
totheoutcomeofthistripforhim.

IntheafternoonwereachedLakeMary,along,ugly,muddypondin
a
valleybetweenpineslopes.Deadandghastlytreesstoodinthewater,
andtheshoreswerecattletracked.Probablytotheranchersthis

189
mudholewasapleasingpicture,buttome,wholovedthebeautyof
thedesertbeforeitsproductiveness,itwashideous.Whenwepassed
LakeMary,andfartheronthelastofthecutovertimberland,we
begantogetintowonderfulcountry.Wetraveledaboutsixteenmiles,
ratherasmalldaysride.Romerstayedonhishorseallthroughthat
ride,andwhenweselectedacampsiteforthenighthesaidtome:
Well,youreluckyyouwouldntbet.

Campthateveningwasinavalleywithstatelypinesstragglingdown
tothelevel.Ontheotherslopethepinescamedowningroups.The
rimofthisoppositeslopewashigh,rugged,ironcolored,withcracks
andholes.BeforesupperIwalkeduptheslopebackofourcamp,to
comeuponlevel,rockygroundforamile,thenpinesagainleadingto
alow,greenmountainwithlighterpatchesofaspen.Thelevel,open
stripwasgrayincolor.ArizonacolorandArizonacountry!Grayof
sage,rocks,pines,cedars,pions,heightsanddepthsandplains,
wildandopenandlonelythatwasArizona.

ThatnightIobtainedsomerestandsleep,lyingawakeonlyafew
hours,duringwhichtimeIturnedfromsidetosidetofindasoft
placeinthehardbed.UndersuchcircumstancesIalwaysthought
ofthehardbedsoftheGreeksandtheSpartans.Nextdaywerode
twentythreemiles.Onhorsebacktripslikethisitwaseveryonefor
himself.Sometimeswewouldbespreadout,allseparated;atothers
we
wouldbebunched;andagainwewouldrideincouples.Themorning
was
anordealforme,asatfirstIcouldscarcelysitmysaddle;in
theafternoon,however,ridinggrewtobelesssevere.Theroadled
throughawinding,shallowvalley,withclumpsofpinehereand
there,
andcedarsontheslopes.Romerrodealltheway,halfthetimewith
hisfeetoutofthestirrups,likeawesternboyborntothesaddle,
andhewantedtogofastallthetime.Campwasmadeataplace
called

190
FultonSpring.Itmighthavebeenaspringonce,butnowitwasa
mudholewithadeadcowlyinginit.Clear,coldwaterisnecessary
tomypleasure,ifnottomyhealth.Ihavelivedonsheepwaterthe
waterholesbeingtaintedbysheepandalkaliwaterandsoapywater
ofthedesert,butneverhappily.HowIhailedtheclear,cold,
swiftlyflowingsprings!

Thisthirdcamplayinawoodswherethepineswerebeautifuland
the
silencenoticeable.UponaskingRomertoenumeratethethingsIhad
calledtohisattention,thefewtimesIcouldcatchupwithhimon
thedaysjourney,hepromptlyrepliedtwobigspiderstarantulas,
ahawk,andMormonLake.Thislakewasanothersnowmeltedmud
hole,
saidtocontainfish.Idoubtedthat.Perhapsthelittlebullhead
catfishmightsurviveinsuchmuddywater,butIdidnotbelievebass
orperchcould.

OnefamiliarfeatureofArizonatravelmanifesteditselftomethat
daythedryair.Mynailsbecamebrittleandmylipsbegantocrack.
IhavehadmylipscrackedsoseverelythatwhenItriedtobitebread
theywouldsplitandbleedandhurtsothatIcouldnoteat.This
matterofsorelipswasforlongapainfulmatter.Itriedmany
remedies,andfinallyfoundone,camphorice,thatwouldpreventthe
dryingandcracking.

Nextdayatdawntheforestwasfullofthesoughingofwindinthe
pinesawindthatpresagedstorm.Nostarsshowed.Romerboypiled
outatsixoclock.Ihadtofollowhim.Theskywasdarkandcloudy.
Onlyafaintlightshowedintheeastanditwasjustlightenough
toseewhenweatebreakfast.Owingtostrayedhorseswedidnotget
startedtillafternineoclock.

Fivemilesthroughthewoods,graduallydescending,ledusintoan
openplainwheretherewasagrassborderedpondfullofducks.Here

191
appearedanopportunitytogetsomemeat.R.C.triedwithshotgun
and
Iwithrifle,alltonoavail.Theseduckswereshy.Romerseemedto
evincesomedisdainatourfailure,buthedidnotvoicehisfeelings.
Wefoundsomewildturkeytracks,andafewfeathers,whichputour
hopeshigh.

Crossingtheopengroundweagainenteredtheforest,which
gradually
grewthickeraswegotdowntoaloweraltitude.Oaktreesbeganto
showinswales.Andthenwesoonbegantoseesquirrels,big,plump,
grayfellows,withbushytailsalmostsilver.Theyappearedwilder
thanwewouldhavesuspected,atthatdistancefromthesettlements.
Romerwaseagertohuntthem,andwithhisusualpersistence,
succeededatlengthinpersuadinghisuncletodoso.

Tothatendwerodeoutfaraheadofthewagonandhorses.Leehada
yellowdoghecalledPups,aclosehaired,keenfaced,muscular
canine
towhichIhadtakenadislike.TobefairtoPups,Ihadnoreason
exceptthathebarkedallthetime.Pupsandhisbarkingweredestined
tomakemehailthembothwithadmirationandrespect,butIhadno
ideaofthatthen.NowthisdogofLeeswouldrunaheadofus,
trailsquirrels,chasethem,andtreethem,whereuponhewouldbark
vociferously.Sometimesupinthebushytopwewouldfailtospythe
squirrel,butwehadnodoubtonewasthere.Romerwastedmanyand
manyacartridgeofthe.22Winchestertryingtohitasquirrel.He
hadpracticedagooddeal,andwasafairlygoodshotforayoungster,
buthittingalittlegrayballoffurhighonatree,orwavingatthe
tipofabranch,wasnoeasymatter.

Son,Isaid,youdonttakeafteryourDad.

AndhisuncletriedtheladstemperbyteasinghimaboutWetzel.
Now

192
Wetzel,thegreatIndiankilleroffrontierdays,wasRomersfavorite
hero.

Gimmethe.20gauge,finallycriedRomer,indesperation,withhis
eyesflashing.

Whereuponhisunclehandedhimtheshotgun,withawordofcaution
astothetrigger.Thisparticularsquirrelwasprettyhighup,
presentingnoeasytarget.Romerstoodalmostdirectlyunderit,
raisedthegunnearlystraightup,wavedandwobbledandhesitated,
andfinallyfired.Downsailedthesquirreltohitwithaplump.That
wasRomersfirstsuccessfulhuntingexperience.Howproudhewas
of
thatgraysquirrel!Isufferedapangtoseetheboysoradiant,so
fulloffireatthekillingofabeautifulcreatureofthewoods.Then
againIrememberedmyownfirstsensations.Boysarebloodthirsty
littlesavages.Intheirhunting,playing,eventheirreading,some
elementofthewildbruteinstinctdominatesthem.Theyareworthy
descendantsofprogenitorswhohadtofightandkilltolive.This
incidentfurnishedmemuchfoodforreflection.Iforesawthatbefore
thistripwasendedImustfacesomeknottyproblems.Ihatedtoshoot
asquirrelevenwhenIwashungry.ProbablythatwasbecauseIwas
not
hungryenough.Astarvingmansuffersnocompunctionsatthe
spilling
ofblood.Onthecontraryherevelsinitwithafierce,primitive
joy.

Someshot,Illsay!declaredRomertohisuncle,loftily.Andhe
saidtomehalfadozentimes:Say,Dad,wasntitagrandpeg?

Buttowardtheendofthatafternoonhisenthusiasmwanedfor
shooting,foranything,especiallyriding.Hekeptaskingwhenthe
wagonwasgoingtostop.Onceheyelledout:Heresapeachofa
placetocamp.ThenIaskedhim:Romer,areyoutired?Naw!But

193
whatstheuseridintilldark?Atlengthhehadtogiveupandbe
putonthewagon.Themomentwastragicforhim.Soon,however,he
brightenedatsomethingDoyletoldhim,andbegantoplytheold
pioneerwithrapidfirequestions.

Wepitchedcampinanopenflat,grayandredwithshortgrass,and
shelteredbytoweringpinesononeside.Underthesewesetupour
tents.Thematofpineneedleswashalfafootthick,softandspringy
andfragrant.Thewoodsappearedfullofslantingraysofgolden
sunlight.

Thisdaywehadsupperoverbeforesunset.Romershowednoeffects
fromhislong,hardride.Firsthewantedtocook,thenhefooled
aroundthefire,botheringIsbel.Ihadahardtimetomanagehim.
Hewantedtobeeternallyactive.Heteasedandbeggedtogo
huntingthenhecompromisedontargetpractice.R.C.andI,
however,
weretootired,andwepreferredtorestbesidethecampfire.

Lookhere,kid,saidR.C.,savesomethingfortomorrow.

IndisgustRomerreplied:Well,Isupposeifaflockofantelopecame
alonghereyouwouldntmove....YouanDadaregreathunters,I
dontthink!

AftertheladhadgoneovertotheothermenR.C.turnedtomeand
saidreflectively:Doesheremindyouofuswhenwewerelittle?

TowhichIrepliedwithemotion:InhimIliveoveragain!

Thatisoneofthebeautifulthingsaboutchildren,sofullofpathos
andsomestrange,stingingjoytheybringbackthedaysthatareno
more.

Thisevening,despitemyfatigue,Iwasthelastonetostayup.My

194
seatwasmostcomfortable,consistingofthickfoldsofblankets
againstalog.Howthewindmournedinthetrees!Howthecampfire
sparkled,glowedredandwhite!Sometimesitseemedfullofblazing
opals.Alwaysitheldfaces.AndstoriesmorestoriesthanIcanever
tell!OnceIwasstirredandinspiredbythebeautifuleffectofthe
pinetreesinoutlineagainstthestarryskywhenthecampfire
blazedup.Thecolorofthefoliageseemedindescribablybluegreen,
somethingneverseenbyday.Everylineshonebright,graceful,
curved,rounded,andallthrownwithsharpreliefagainstthesky.
How
magical,exquisitelydelicateandfanciful!Thegreattrunkswere
softserratedbrown,andthegnarledbranchesstoodoutinperfect
proportions.Allworksofartmustbecopiedofnature.

Nextmorningearly,whileRomerslept,andthemenhadjustbegun
to
stir,Iwentapartfromthecampoutintothewoods.Allseemed
solemn
andstillandcool,withtheaislesoftheforestbrownandgreenand
gold.Iheardanowl,perhapsbelatedinhisnocturnalhabit.Thento
mysurpriseIheardwildcanaries.Theywereflyinghigh,andtothe
south,goingtotheirwinterquarters.Iwanderedaroundamongbig,
grayrocksandwindfallsandclumpsofyoungoakandmajesticpines.
Morethanonesaucyredsquirrelchatteredatme.

WhenIreturnedtocampmycomradeswereatbreakfast.Romer
appeared
vastlyrelievedtoseethatIhadnottakenagunwithme.

Thismorningwegotanearlystart.Werodeforhoursthrougha
beautifulshadyforest,whereafragrantbreezeinourfacesmade
ridingpleasant.Largeoaksandpatchesofsumachappearedonthe
rockyslopes.Wedescendedagooddealinthismorningstravel,and
theairgrewappreciablywarmer.Thesmellofpinewasthickand
fragrant;thesoundofwindwassweetandsoughing.Everywhere

195
pine
needlesdropped,shininginthesunlightlikethinslantsofrain.

OnlyonceortwicedidIseeRomerinallthesemorninghours;thenhe
wasoutinfrontwiththecowboyIsbel,ridinghisblackponyover
allthelogsandwasheshecouldfind.Icouldseehisfeetsticking
straightoutalmostevenwithhissaddle.Hedidnotappeartoneed
stirrups.Myfearsgraduallylessened.

Duringtheafternoontheridegrewhot,andverydusty.Wecametoa
long,openvalleywherethedustlayseveralinchesdeep.Ithadbeen
anunusuallydrysummerandfallafactthatpresagedpoorluckfor
ourhuntingandthewashesandstreambedswerebleachedwhite.
We
cametotwowaterholes,tankstheArizonianscalledthem,andthey
werevilemudholeswithgreenscumonthewater.Thehorsesdrank,
butIwouldhavehadtobefargonefromthirstbeforeIwouldhave
slakedminethere.Wefacedwestwiththehotsunbeatingonusand
thedustrisinginclouds.Nowonderthatridewasinterminablylong.

Atlastwedescendedacanyon,anddecidedtocampinalevelspot
whereseveralravinesmet,inoneofwhichatinystreamofdearwater
oozedoutofthegravel.Theinclosurewasrockysloped,fullofcaves
andcoveredwithpines;andthebestIcouldsayforitwasthatin
caseofstormthecampwouldbewellprotected.Weshoveledouta
deep
holeinthegravel,sothatitwouldfillupwithwater.Romerhad
evidentlyenjoyedhimselfthisday.WhenIaskedIsbelabouthimthe
cowboyshardfacegleamedwithasmile:Shorethetkidsallright.
Hellmakeacowpuncher!Hisremarkpleasedme.Inviewof
Romers
determinationtoemulatetheworstbanditIeverwroteaboutIwas
tremendouslygladtothinkofhimasacowboy.ButasformyselfI
was
tired,andtheridehadbeenratherunprofitable,andthiscampsite,

196
tosaytheleast,didnotinspireme.Itwasneitherwildnor
beautifulnorcomfortable.Iwentearlytobedandsleptlikealog.

Thefollowingmorningsomeofourhorseswerelost.Themenhunted
fromdaylighttilltenoclock.ThenitwasthatIlearnedmoreabout
LeesdogPups.AttenthirtyLeecameinwiththelosthorses.They
hadhiddeninaclumpofcedarsandremainedperfectlyquiet,ascute
asdeer.LeeputPupsontheirtrail.Pupswasahorsetrailingdog
andhesoonfoundthem.IhadachangeoffeelingforPups,thenand
there.

Thesunwashighandhotwhenwerodeoff.Thepleasantanddusty
stretchesalternated.Aboutoneoclockwehaltedontheedgeofa
deep
woodedravinetotakeourusualnoondayrest.Iscoutedalongthe
edge
inthehopeofseeinggameofsomekind.PresentlyIheardthe
cluckcluckofturkeys.SlippingalongtoanopenplaceIpeereddown
to
bethrilledbysightoffourgoodsizedturkeys.Theywerewalking
along
theopenstripofdrystreambedatthebottomoftheravine.Onewas
chasinggrasshoppers.Theywerefairlyclose.Itookaimatone,and
thoughtIcouldhavehithim,butsuddenlyIrememberedRomerand
R.C.
SoIslippedbackandcalledthem.

HurriedlyandstealthilywereturnedtothepointwhereIhadseen
theturkeys.Romerhadapalefaceandwonderfullybrighteyes;his
actionsresembledthoseofastalkingIndian.Theturkeyswerefarther
down,butstillinplainsight.ItoldR.C.totaketheboyandslip
down,andrunandhideandruntilltheygotcloseenoughforashot.
Iwouldkeeptotheedgeoftheravine.

SomemomentslaterIsawR.C.andtheboyrunningandstoopingand

197
creepingalongthebottomoftheravine.ThenIranmyselftoreacha
pointoppositetheturkeys,soincasetheyflewuphillImightgeta
shot.ButIdidnotseethem,andnothinghappened.Ilostsightof
theturkeys.HurryingbacktowhereIhadtiedmyhorseImounted
him
andlopedaheadandcameoutupontheravinesomedistanceabove.
Here
Ihuntedaroundforalittlewhile.OnceIheardthereportofthe.20
gauge,andthenseveralrifleshots.UponreturningIfoundthatLee
andNielsenhadwastedsomeshells.R.C.andRomercamewagging
upthe
hill,bothredandwetandtired.R.C.carriedasmallturkey,about
thesizeofachicken.Hetoldme,betweenpants,thattheychasedthe
fourlargeturkeys,andwerejustabouttogetashotwhenupjumped
a
henturkeywithaflockofyoungones.Theyraneveryway.Hegot
one.
Thenhetoldme,betweenmorepantsandsomelaughs,thatRomer
hadchasedthelittleturkeysallovertheravine,almostcatching
several.Romersaidforhimself:Ijustalmostpulledfeathersoutof
theirtails.Gee!ifIdhadagun!

Weresumedourjourney.AboutthemiddleoftheafternoonDoyle
called
myattentiontoanopeningintheforestthroughwhichIcouldseethe
yellowwalledrimofthemesa,andthegreatbluevoidbelow.
Arizona!
Thatexplainedtheblackforests,theredandyellowcliffsofrock,
thegraycedars,theheightsanddepths.

Lop?rideindeedwasitdownoffthemesa.Theroadwaswinding,
rough
fulloflooserocksanddusty.Wewerealltiredouttryingtokeepup
withthewagon.Romer,however,averredtimeandagainthathewas
nottired.StillIsawhimoftenshifthisseatfromonesideofthe

198
saddletotheother.

Atlastwedescendedtoacomparativelevelandcametoalittle
hamlet.LikeallMormonvillagesithadquaintlogcabins,lowstone
houses,anirrigationditchrunningatthesideoftheroad,orchards,
andmanyrosycheekedchildren.Welingeredtherelongenoughto
rest
alittleanddrinkourfillofthecoldgranitewater.Iwouldtravel
outofmywaytogetadrinkofwaterthatcamefromgraniterock.

AboutfiveoclockweleftfortheNaturalBridge.Romerinvitedor
rathertauntedmetoarace.WhenitendedinhisvictoryIfound
thatIhadjoltedmyrifleoutofitssaddlesheath.Iwentbacksome
distancetolookforit,butdidsoinvain.Isbelsaidhewouldride
backinthemorningandfindit.

Thecountryhereappearedtobeonavastscale.Butthatwasonly
becausewehadgottenoutwherewecouldseeallaround.Arizonais
allonagrand,vastscale.Mountainrangesstooduptothesouthand
east.Northloomedupthelofty,steeprimoftheMogollonMesa,with
itscliffsofyellowandred,anditsblacklineoftimber.Westward
layfoldonfoldoflowcedarcoveredhills.Thevalleyappeareda
kindofmagnificentbowl,roughandwild,withthedistancelost
inbluehaze.Thevegetationwasdenseandratherlow.Isawboth
pricklypearandmescalcactus,cedars,manzanitabrush,scruboak,
andjunipertrees.Theselastnamedwereverybeautiful,especially
thesmallerones,withtheirgraygreenfoliage,andpurpleberries,
andblackandwhitecheckeredbark.Therewerenopinetrees.Since
we
hadlefttherimabovethecharacterofplantlifehadchanged.

WecrossedtheplateauleadingtothevalleywheretheNaturalBridge
waslocated.Awindingroaddescendedtheeastsideofthisvalley.
Arancherliveddownthere.Greenofalfalfaandorchardandwalnut
treescontrastedvividlywithabare,grayslopeononeside,anda

199
red,ruggedmountainontheother.Adeepgorgeshoweddarkand
wild.
Atlength,justaftersunset,wereachedtheranch,androdethrough
orchardsofpeachandpearandappletrees,allcoloredwithfruit,
anddownthroughgrassymeadowstoawalnutgrovewherewe
pitched
camp.Bythetimewehadsupperitwasdark.Wonderfulstars,thick,
dreamyhumofinsects,murmurofswiftwater,arosyandgolden
afterglowonthenotchofthemountainrangetothewestthesewere
inducementstostayup,butIwassotiredIhadtogotobed,where
myeyelidsfelltight,asifpleasantlyweighted.

Afterthelong,hardridesandthebarrencampsiteswhatdelightto
awakeninthisbeautifulvalleywiththemorningcoolandbreezyand
bright,withsmellofnewmownhayfromthegreenandpurplealfalfa
fields,andthesunlightgildingthejaggedcragsabove!Romermadea
beelineforthepeachtrees.Hebeathisdaddyonlyafewyards.The
kindrancherhadvisitedusthenightbeforeandhehadtoldusto
helpourselvestofruit,melons,alfalfa.NeedlesstostatethatI
mademybreakfastonpeaches!

Itrailedtheswift,murmuringstreamtoitssourceonthedarkgreen
slopewherethereopenedupabigholeborderedbywatercress,long
grass,andfragrantmint.Thisspringwasoneofperfectlyclear
water,sixfeetdeep,boilinguptobulgeonthesurface.Agrassof
darkcolorandbunchesoflightgreenplantgrewunderthesurface.
Beesandbluedragonflieshummedaroundandfrogsasgreenasthe
grassblinkedwithjewelledeyesfromthewetmargins.Thespring
had
alargevolumethatspilledoveritsborderswithlow,hollowgurgle,
withfresh,coolsplash.Thewaterwassoft,tastingoflimestone.
Herewasthesecretoftheverdureandfragranceandcolorandbeauty
andlifeoftheoasis.

ItwasalsothesecretoftheformationofthewonderfulNatural

200
Bridge.Partoftherancherscultivatedland,totheextentof
severalacres,wastheleveltopofthisstrangebridge.Ameadowof
alfalfaandafinevineyard,intheair,likethehanginggardensof
Babylon!Thenaturalbridgespannedadeepgorge,atthebottomof
whichflowedaswiftstreamofwater.Geologicallythistremendous
archoflimestonecannotbesoveryold.Incomparativelyrecenttimes
anearthquakeorsomeseismicdisturbanceorsomeothernatural
force
causedaspringofwatertoburstfromtheslopeabovethegorge.It
randown,ofcourse,overtherim.Thelimesaltinthewaterwas
deposited,andyearbyyearandagebyageadvancedtowardthe
oppositesideuntilabridgecrossedthegorge.Theswiftstreamat
thebottomkepttheopeningclearunderthebridge.

Awindingtrailleddeepdownonthelowersideofthiswonderful
naturalspan.Itshowedthecliffsoflimestone,porous,craggy,
broken,chalky.Atthebottomthegorgewasfulloftremendous
boulders,waterwornledges,sycamoreandjunipertrees,redand
yellowflowers,anddark,beautifulgreenpools.Iespiedtinygray
frogs,remindingmeofthoseIfoundinthegulchesoftheGrand
Canyon.Manyhugeblackbeetles,somealive,butmostofthemdead,
linedthewetbordersofthepools.Aspeciesoffishthatresembled
mulletlayintheshadowoftherocks.

FromunderneaththeNaturalBridgeshowedtoadvantage,andifnot
magnificentlikethegrandNonnezosheofUtah,itwasatleast
strikingandbeautiful.Ithadaroundedceilingcoloredgray,yellow,
green,bronze,purple,white,makingacrudeandscallopedmosaic.
Waterdrippedfromitlikearainofheavyscattereddrops.Theleft
sidewasdryestandlarge,darkcavesopenedup,oneabovetheother,
theupperbeingsohighthatitwasdangeroustoattemptreachingit.
Therightsidewasslipperyandwet.Allrockswerethicklyencrusted
withlimesalt.Doyletoldusthatanyobjectleftundertheceaseless
drip,dripofthelimewaterwouldsoonbecomeencrusted,andheavy
as

201
stone.Theupperopeningofthearchwasmuchhigherandsmaller
than
thelower.Anynoisegaveforthstrangeandsepulchralechoes.Romer
certainlymadethewelkinring.Astreakofsunlightshonethrougha
smallholeinthethinnestpartoftheroof.Doylepointedoutthe
highcavewhereIndianshadoncelived,showingthemarkingsof
their
fire.AlsohetoldastoryofApachesbeingdrivenintothehighest
cavefromwhichtheyhadneverescaped.Thistalewasmanifestlyto
RomerslikingandIhadtouseforcetokeephimfromriskinghis
neck.Averystrongbreezeblewunderthearch.Whenwerolleda
boulderintothelarge,darkpoolitgaveforthahollowboom,boom,
boom,growinghollowerthedeeperitwent.ItriedtointerestRomer
insomebatnestsincreviceshighup,buttheboywantedtoroll
stonesandfishforthemullet.Whenweclimbedoutandwereonce
more
onalevelIaskedhimwhathethoughtoftheplace.SomeholeIll
say!hepanted,breathlessly.

TheranchertoldmethatthesummerrainsbeganthereaboutJuly,
and
thesnowsaboutthefirstoftheyear.Snowneverlaylongonthe
lowerslopes.Apacheshadlivedtherefortyyearsagoandhad
cultivatedthesoil.TherewasgoldinthemountainsoftheFourPeaks
Range.Inthisshelterednooktheweatherwasneverseverelycoldor
hot;andIjudgedfromthequainttalkoftherancherswifethatlife
therewasalwaysafternoon.

NextdaywerodefromNaturalBridgetoPaysoninfourandahalf
hours.Paysonappearedtobeanoldhamlet,retainingmanyfrontier
characteristicssuchasoldboardandstonehouseswithhighfronts,
hitchingpostsandpumpsonsidewalks,andonestreetsowidethatit
resembledaMexicanplaza.Paysoncontainedtwostores,whereI
hoped
tobuyarifle,andhopedinvain.Ihadnotrecoveredmylostgun,

202
andwhennightcamemyprospectsofanythingtohuntwith
appeared
extremelyslim.Butwehadvisitors,andoneofthemwasastalwart,
darkskinnedridernamedCopple,whointroducedhimselfbysaying
he
wouldhavecomeagoodwaytomeetthewriterofcertainbookshe
had
profitedby.WhenhelearnedofthelossofmyrifleandthatIcould
notpurchaseoneanywherehepresseduponmehisown.Irefused
with
thanks,buthewouldnottakeno.Theupshotofitwasthathelent
mehis.30GovernmentWinchester,andgavemeseveralboxesof
ammunition.Alsohepresentedmewithacowhidelasso.Whereupon
RomerboytookashinetoCoppleatonce.Say,youlooklikean
Indian,hedeclared.WithalaughCopplereplied:IampartIndian,
sonny.ManifestlythatsettledhisstatuswithRomer,forhepiped
up:SosDadpartIndian.Youdbettercomehuntinwithus.

Wehadfornextdaytolookforwardtothelongestandhardestrideof
thejourneyin,andinordertomakeitandreachagoodcampingsite
Igotupatthreeoclockinthemorningtorouteverybodyout.It
waspitchdarkuntilwekindledfires.Theneverybodyrustledtosuch
purposethatwewerereadytostartbeforedawn,andhadtowaita
littleforlightenoughtoseewhereweweregoing.Thisprocedure
tickledRomerimmensely.Ibelievedheimaginedhewasinapioneer
caravan.Thegraybreakingofdawn,thecomingofbrighterlight,the
roseandsilveroftherisingsun,andtheridinginitsface,with
theairsotangyandnipping,werecircumstancesthatinspiredmeas
theadventurousstartpleasedRomer.Thebrushandcactuslinedroad
wasrough,uphillanddown,witheverincreasingindicationsthat
itwasseldomused.FromthetopsofhighpointsIcouldseeblack
foothills,round,coneshaped,flattopped,allleadingthegaze
towardthegreatyellowandredwallofthemesa,withitsfringed
borderline,wildandbeckoning.

203
Wewalkedourhorses,trotted,loped,andrepeatedtheorder,over
andover,hourbyhour,mileaftermile,underasunthatburned
ourfacesandthroughchokingdust.Thewashesandstreambeds
were
bleachedanddry;thebrushwassearandyellowanddustladen;the
mescalstalksseemedwitheredbyhotblasts.Onlythemanzanita
looked
fresh.Thatsmoothredbranchedandglisteninggreenleafedplant
ofthedesertapparentlyflourishedwithoutrain.Onallsidesthe
evidencesofextremedroughtprovedtheyeartobethedreaded
_anno
seco_oftheMexicans.

Fortenhourswerodewithoutahaltbeforetherewasanyprominent
changeinthewearyupanddownhillgoing,intheheatanddust
and
brushwalledroad.Butaboutthemiddleoftheafternoonwereached
thesummitofthelongesthill,fromwhichwesawaheadofusacut
up
country,wildandruggedandbeautiful,withpineslopedcanyonat
our
feet.Weheardthefaintmurmurofrunningwater.Hot,dusty,wet
with
sweat,andthirstyassheep,wepileddownthatsteepslopeasfast
aswedared.Ourhorsesdidnotneedurging.Atthebottomwe
plunged
intoaswiftstreamofclear,coldwatergranitewatertodrinkof
which,andtobathehotheadsandburningfeet,wasajoyonlyknown
tothewearytravelerofthedesert.Romeryelledthatthewaterwas
likethatatourhomeinthemountainsofPennsylvania,andhedrank
tillIthoughthewouldburst,andthenIhadtoholdhimtokeephim
fromwallowinginit.

Hereweenteredapineforest.Heatandduststayedwithus,andthe
achesandpainslikewise,buttheworstofthemlaybehind.Every

204
mile
grewshadier,clearer,cooler.

Nielsenhappenedtofallinandridebesidemeforseveralmiles,
aswasoftenhiswont.ThedrinkofwaterstirredhimtoanHomeric
recitalofoneofhisdeserttripsinSonora,attheendofwhich,
almostdeadofthirst,hehadsuddenlycomeuponsuchastreamas
the
onewehadjustpassed.Thenhetoldmeabouthistripsdownthe
west
coastofSonora,alongtheGulf,wherehetraveledatnight,atlow
tide,sothatbydaytimehisfootprintswouldbewashedout.This
wasthelandoftheSeriIndians.UndoubtedlytheseIndianswere
cannibals.Ihadreadconsiderableaboutthem,muchofwhich
ridiculed
therumorsoftheircannibalistictraits.Thisofcoursehadbeenof
exceedinginteresttome,becausesomedayImeanttogototheland
oftheSeris.Butnotuntil1918didIgetreallyauthenticdata
concerningthem.ProfessorBaileyoftheUniversityofCaliforniatold
mehehadyearsbeforemadetwotripstotheGulf,andfoundthe
Seris
tobethelowestorderofsavagesheknewof.Hewaspositivethat
underfavorablecircumstancestheywouldpracticecannibalism.
Nielsen
madefourtripsdownthere.HeclaimedtheSeriswereanuglytribe.
InwintertheylivedonTiburonIsland,offwhichboatsanchoredon
occasions,andcrewsandfishermenandadventurerswentashoreto
barterwiththeIndians.Thesetravelersdidnotseetheworstofthe
Seris.Insummertheyrangeupthemainland,andtheygonaked.
They
donotwantgolddiscovereddownthere.Theywillfightprospectors.
Theyusearrowsandattackatdawn.Alsotheypoisonthewater
holes.

NielsentoldofsomemenwhoweremassacredbySerisonthe

205
mainland
oppositeTiburonIsland.Oneman,whohadgoneawayfromcamp,
returnedtoheartheattackuponhiscompanions.Heescapedand
made
hiswaytoGyamus.Procuringassistancethismanreturnedtothe
scene
ofthemassacre,onlytofindstakesinthesand,withdeeptrails
trampedaroundthem,andblackenedremainsoffires,andbones
everywhere.Nielsenwentontosaythatoncefromahidingplacehe
hadwatchedSeristearupanddevouradeadturtlethatheafterward
ascertainedwasputrid.HesaidtheseSeriswerethegreatestrunners
ofalldesertsavages.Thebestofthemcouldoutrunahorse.One
Seri,agiantsevenfeettall,couldoutrunadeerandbreakitsneck
withhishands.

ThesestatementsofNielsenswereremarkable,andpersonallyI
believedthem.Menofhisstampwerehonestandtheyhad
opportunities
tolearnstrangeandterriblefactsinnature.Thegreatnaturalist
Darwinmaderatherstrongerclaimsforthebarbarismofthesavages
of
TerradelFuego.Nielsen,pursuinghistheme,toldmehowhehad
seen,withhisowneyesandtheywerecertainlysharpand
intelligentYaquiIndiansleaponthebarebacksofwildhorses
andlockingtheirlegs,stickthereinspiteofthemadplungesand
pitches.TheGauchosofthePatagonianPampaswerefamousforthat
featofhorsemanship.IaskedJoeIsbelwhathethoughtofsuch
riding.Andhesaid:Wal,Icanrideawildsteerbareback,
butexcoosemefromtacklinabuckinbronchwithoutsaddlean
stirrups.Thiscomingfromtheacknowledgedchampionhorsemanof
the
southwestwasassuredlysignificant.

Atfiveoclockwecametotheendoftheroad.Itledtoaforest
glade,overlookingthestreamwehadfollowed,andthatwasasfaras

206
ourwagoncouldgo.Thegladeshoneredwithsumach,and
surrounded
bytallpines,witharockyandshadyglenbelow,itappeareda
delightfulplacetocamp.AsIwasabouttounsaddlemyhorsesI
heard
thecluckcluckofturkeys.Pullingoutmyborrowedrifle,andcalling
Romer,Irantotheedgeoftheglade.Theshady,swiftstreamran
fiftyfeetorsobelowme.AcrossitIsawintothewoodswhereshade
andgrayrocksandcoloredbrushmingled.AgainIheardtheturkeys
cluck.Lookhard,son,Iwhispered.Theyreclose.R.C.came
slippingalongbelowus,withhisrifleready.SuddenlyRomer
stiffened,thenpointed.There!Dad!There!Isawtwogobblers
wade
intothebrooknotmorethanahundredandfiftyfeetaway.Drawing
downwithfineaimIfired.Thebulletsplashedwateralloverthe
turkeys.Onewithloudwhirrofwingsflewaway.Theotherleaped
acrossthebrookandranswiftasadeerrightuptheslope.As
ItriedtogetthesightonhimIheardotherturkeysfly,andthe
crackcrackofR.C.sgun.Ishottwiceatmyrunningturkey,andall
Ididwastoscatterthedirtoverhim,andmakehimrunfaster.R.C.
hadnotdoneanybettershooting.Romer,wonderfultorelate,wasso
excitedthatheforgottomakefunofourmarksmanship.Wescouted
aroundsome,buttheturkeyshadgone.BypromisingtotakeRomer
huntingaftersupperIcontrivedtogethimbacktotheglade,where
wemadecamp.

II

Afterwehadunpackedandwhilethemenwerepitchingthetents
and
gettingsupperItookRomeronahuntupthecreek.Iwas
considerably
pleasedtoseegoodsizedtroutinthedeeperpools.Alittleway
abovecampthecreekforked.Astherighthandbranchappearedto

207
be
largerandmoreattractivewefolloweditscourse.Soonthebustle
ofcamplifeandthesoundofthehorseswereleftfarbehind.Romer
slippedalongbesidemestealthilyasanIndian,alleyesandears.

Wehadnottraveledthusforaquarterofamilewhenmyquickear
caughtthecluckcluckofturkeys.Listen,Iwhispered,halting.
Romerbecamelikeastatue,hisdarkeyesdilating,hisnostrils
quivering,hiswholebodystrung.HewasaZaneallright.Aturkey
calledagain;thenanotheranswered.Romerstarted,andnoddedhis
headvehemently.

Comeonnow,rightbehindme,Iwhispered.StepwhereIstepand
do
whatIdo.Dontbreakanytwigs.

Cautiouslyweglidedupthecreek,listeningnowandthentogetthe
direction,untilwecametoanopenplacewherewecouldseesome
distanceuparidge.Theturkeycluckscamefromacrossthecreek
somewhereupthisopenaisleoftheforest.Icrawledaheadseveral
rodstoamoreadvantageouspoint,muchpleasedtonotethatRomer
keptnoiselesslyatmyheels.Thenfrombehindastonewepeepedout.
Almostatonceaturkeyflewdownfromatreeintotheopenlane.
LookDad!whisperedRomer,wildly.Ihadtoholdhimdown.
Thatsa
henturkey,Isaid.See,itssmallanddullcolored.Thegobblers
arebig,shiny,andtheyhaveredontheirheads.

Anotherhenturkeyflewdownfromaratherlowheight.ThenImade
out
grapevines,andIsawseveralanimateddarkpatchesamongthem.As
I
lookedthreeturkeysfloppeddowntotheground.Onewasagobbler
of
considerablesize,withbeautifulwhiteandbronzefeathers.Rather

208
suspiciouslyhelookeddownourway.Thedistancewasnotmore
thana
hundredyards.Iaimedathim,feelingasIdidsohowRomer
quivered
besideme,butIhadnoconfidenceinCopplesrifle.Thesightswere
wrongforme.Thestockdidnotfitme.So,hopingforacloserand
bettershot,Iletthisopportunitypass.OfcourseIshouldhave
takenit.Thegobblercluckedandbegantotrotuptheridge,withthe
othersafterhim.Theywerenotfrightened,buttheyappearedrather
suspicious.WhentheydisappearedinthewoodsRomerandIgotup,
and
hurriedinpursuit.Gee!whydidntyoupegthatgobbler?brokeout
Romer,breathlessly.Wasntheapeach?

Whenwereachedthetopoftheridgeweadvancedverycautiously
again.Anotheropenplaceledtoasteep,rockyhillsidewithcedars
andpinesgrowingsomewhatseparated.Iwasdisappointedinnot
seeing
theturkeys.Theninouranxietyandeagernesswehurriedon,not
noiselesslybyanymeans.Allofasuddentherewasarustle,andthen
agreatwhirrofwings.Threeturkeysflewlikegrouseawayintothe
woods.NextIsawthewhitegobblerrunninguptherockyhillside.At
firsthewasintheopen.AimingasbestIcouldIwaitedforhimto
stoporhesitate.Buthedidneither.Peghim,Dad!yelledRomer.
Theladwasright.MybestchanceIhadagainforfeited.Tohita
runningwildturkeywithariflebulletwasafeatIhadnotdone
sooftenastoinspireconceit.Thegobblerwaswise,too.Forthat
matterallgrowngobblersareaswiseasoldbucks,exceptinthe
springmatingseason,whenitisacrimetohuntthem.Thisone,just
asIgotabeadonhim,alwaysranbehindarockortreeorshrub.
FinallyindesperationItookasnapshotathim,hittingunderhim,
makinghimjump.TheninrapidsuccessionIfiredfourmoretimes.I
hadthesatisfactionofseeingwheremybulletsstruckupthedust,
eventhoughtheydidgowideofthemark.Aftermylastshotthe
gobblerdisappeared.

209

Well,Dad,yousurethrowedthedirtoverhim!declaredRomer.

Son,IdontbelieveIcouldhitaflockofbarnswiththisgun,I
replied,gazingdoubtfullyattheold,shiny,wirewrapped,wornout
WinchesterCopplehadlentme.Ihadbeentoldthathewasafine
marksmanandcoulddriveanailwithit.UponmyreturntocampI
triedouttherifle,carefully,witharest,tofindthatitwasnot
accurate.Moreoveritdidnotthrowthebulletsconsistently.Itshot
high,wide,low;andrightthereIabandonedanyfurtheruseforit.
R.C.triedtomakemetakehisrifletouseonthehuntingtrip;
NielsenandLeewantedmetotaketheirs,butIwasdisgustedwith
myselfandrefused.Thanks,boys,Isaid.Maybethiswillbea
lessontome.

Wehadbeenupsincethreeoclockthatmorning,andthedaystravel
hadbeenexhausting.Ihadjustenoughenergylefttoscrapeupa
huge,softpileofpineneedlesuponwhichtomakeourbed.After
thatallwasoblivionuntilIwasawakenedbytheringingstrokesof
Nielsensaxe.

Themorning,afterthesungotup,wasexceedinglydelightful.
Andthiscampwassuchacontrasttotheothers,sopleasantand
attractive,thatevenifwehadnotarrangedtomeetLeeHaughtand
hissonshereIwouldhavestayedawhileanyway.Haughtwasa
famed
bearhunterwholivedinalogcabinsomewhereupundertherimof
the
mesa.WhileLeeandNielsenrodeoffupthetrailtofindHaughtI
gaveRomerhisfirsttryatrainbowtrout.Thewaterofthecreekwas
lowandclear,sothatwecouldseeplentyofgoodsizedtrout.But
theywereshy.Theywouldnotrisereadilytoanyofourflies,though
Igotseveralstrikes.Wesearchedunderthestonesforwormsand
securedafew.WhereuponRomerthrewabaitedhooktoatroutwe
plainlysaw.Thetroutgobbledit.Romerhadbeeninstructedinthe

210
fineartofangling,butwheneverhegotabitehealwaysforgot
science.Heyankedthisteninchrainbowrightout.Theninanother
poolhehookedabigfellowthathadideasofhisownaswellas
weightandstrength.Romerappliedthesamestrenuoustactics.But
thistroutnearlypulledRomerofftherockbeforethelinebroke.I
tookoccasionthentodelivertotheladalecture.Inreplyhesaid
tearfully:Ididntknowhewassosobig.

Whenwereturnedtocamp,Haughtandhissonswerethere.Evenat
a
distancetheirhorses,weapons,andpersonssatisfiedmycritical
eye.LeeHaughtwasatall,spare,superblybuiltman,withsquare
shoulders.Hehadabrownfacewithdeeplinesandsunkencheeks,
keen
hazeleyes,heavydarkmustache,andhairstreakedalittlewithgray.
Theonlystrikingfeaturesofhisapparelwerehisblacksombreroand
longspurs.

Hissons,EddandGeorge,wereyoung,lean,sallow,stillfaced,
lankyleggedhorsemenwithcleargrayeyes.Theydidnotappearto
be
given,tomuchspeech.Bothwerethenwaitingforthecallofthearmy
draft.Lookingatthemthen,feelingthetranquilreserveandlatent
forceoftheseArizonians,IreflectedthattheGermanshadfailed
intheirpsychologyofAmericancharacter.Afewhundredthousand
AmericansliketheHaughtboyswouldhavewhippedtheGerman
army.

Weheldacouncil.HaughtsaidhewouldsendhissonEddwith
Doyle,
andbyalongroundaboutforestroadgetthewagonuponthemesa.
Withhisburrosandsomeofourhorsespackedwecouldtakepartof
theoutfitupthecreektrail,pasthiscabin,andclimboutonthe
rim,wherewewouldfindgrass,water,wood,andplentyofgame.

211
Theideaofpermanentcampbeforesunsetthatverydayinspiredus
to
unitedandvigorouseffort.Bynoonwehadthepacktrainready.Edd
andDoyleclimbedonthewagontostarttheotherway.Romerwaved
his
hand:Goodbye,Mr.Doyle,dontbreakdownandlosetheapples!

Thenwewereoff,upthenarrowtrailalongthecreek.Haughtledthe
way.Romerattachedhimselftothebearhunter,andwhereverthe
trail
waswideenoughrodebesidehim.R.C.andIfollowed.Theother
men
fellinbehindthepacktrain.

Theridewashot,andforthemostpartalluphill.Thatbasincould
belikenedtotheribsofawashboard:itwasallhills,gorges,
ridgesandravines.Thehollowsofthisexceedinglyroughcountry
were
thickwithpineandoak,theridgescoveredwithcedar,juniper,and
manzanita.Theground,whereitwasnotrocky,wasadry,redclay.
We
passedHaughtslogcabinandclearingofafewacres,whereIsawfat
hogsandcattle.Beyondthispointthetrailgrewmorezigzag,and
steeper,andshadier.Aswegothigheruptheairgrewcooler.Inoted
achangeinthetimber.Thetreesgrewlarger,andothervarieties
appeared.Wecrossedaroaringbrooklinedbythick,greenbrush,
very
pleasanttotheeye,andbronzegoldfernsthatwerebeautiful.We
passedoaksallgreenandyellow,andmapletrees,wonderfully
colored
redandcerise.ThenstillhigherupIespiedsomesilverspruces,
mostexquisitetreesofthemountainforests.

DuringthelatterhalfoftheclimbuptotherimIhadtoattendto
thebusinessofridingandwalking.Thetrailwasrough,steep,and

212
long.OnceHaughtcalledmyattentiontoaflatstonewithaplain
trailmadebyaturtleinagespastwhenthatsandstonewaswet,
sedimentarydeposit.Byandbyewereachedthelastslopesuptothe
mesa,green,withyellowcragsandcliffs,andhereandthereblazing
maplestoremindmeagainthatautumnwasathand.

Atlastwesurmountedtherim,fromwhichIsawascenethatdefied
words.ItwasdifferentfromanyIhadseenbefore.Blacktimberas
faraseyecouldsee!ThenIsawavastbowlinclosedbydimmountain
ranges,witharollingfloorofforestedridges,anddarklinesIknew
tobecanyons.Forwild,ruggedbeautyIhadnotseenitsequal.

Whenthepacktrainreachedtherimwerodeon,andnowthrougha
magnificentforestateightthousandfeetaltitude.Bigwhiteandblack
cloudsobscuredthesun.Athundershowercaughtus.Therewashail,
and
thedrysmellofdust,andalittlecoldrain.Romerwouldnotputon
hisslicker.Haughtsaidthedroughthadbeentheworsthehadseenin
twentyyearsthere.UpinthisodorousforestlandIcouldnotsee
where
therehadbeenlackofrain.Theforestappearedthick,grassy,gold
and
yellowandgreenandbrown.Thicketsandswalesofoaksandaspens
were
gorgeousintheirautumnhues.Thesilversprucessentdownlong,
gracefulbranchesthathadtobebrushedasideorstoopedunderas
we
rodealong.Biggraysquirrelswithwhitetailsandtuftedearsranup
treestoperchonlimbsandwatchusgoby;andothersquirrels,much
smalleranddarkergray,friskedandchatteredandscoldedatagreat
rate.

Wepassedlittledepressionsthatrandownintoravines,andthese,
Haughtinformedme,weretheheadsofcanyonsthatslopedaway
from

213
therim,deepeningandwideningformiles.Therimofthemesawas
itshighestpoint,excepthereandthereafewelevationslikeBlack
Butte.Geologicallythismesawasanenormousfault,likethenorth
rimoftheGrandCanyon.Duringtheformationoftheearth,orthe
hardeningofthecrust,therehadbeenacrackorslip,sothatone
edgeofthecruststoodupsheerabovetheother.Wepassedtheheads
ofLeonardCanyon,Gentry,andTurkeyCanyons,andatlast,near
timeofsunset,headeddownintobeautifullycolored,pinesloped,
aspenthicketedBeaverDamCanyon.

Amilefromtherimweweredeepinthecanyon,walledinby
rockstrewnandpinetimberedslopestoosteepforahorsetoclimb.
Therewasalittlegullyontheblacksoilwheretherewereno
evidencesofrecentwater.HaughtsaidhehadneverseenBeaverDam
Creekdryuntilthisseason.Wetraveledonuntilwecametoawide,
openspace,wherethreeforksofthiscanyonmet,andwhereinthe
middleofthisgladethererosealengthywoodedbench,shadedand
beautifiedbystatelypinesandsilverspruce.Atthispointwater
appearedinthecreekbed,flowingintinystreamthatsoongathered
volume.Coldandclearandpureitwasallthatwasneededtomake
thisspotanidealcampsite.Haughtsaidhalfamilebelowtherewas
agrassyparkwherethehorseswouldgrazewithelk.

Wepitchedourtentsonthisbench,andIchoseformylocationa
spacebetweentwogreatmonarchsoftheforests,thathadsurely
shadedmanyanIndianencampment.Attheupperendofthebench
rosea
knoll,goldenandgreenwithscruboaks,andrussetcoloredwithits
lichenedrocks.Aboutallwecouldmanagethateveningwastoeat
and
gotobed.

Morningbrokecoolandbright,withheavydew.Igotmybootsas
wet
asifIhadwadedinwater.Thissurprisedme,occurringonOctober

214
sixth,andateightthousandfeetaltitude,asIhadexpectedfrost.
Mostofthisdaywasspentinmakingcamp,unpacking,andattending
to
themanynecessarylittledetailsthatmakeforcomfortintheopen.
TobesureRomerworkedveryspasmodically.Hespentmostofhis
time
onthebackofoneofHaughtsburros,chasingandropinganother.I
hadnotrememberedseeingtheladsohappilyoccupied.

LateintheafternoonIslippedoffdownthecanyonalone,taking
Haughtsrifleforsafetyratherthanadesiretokillanything.By
nomeanswasitimpossibletomeetabadbearinthatforest.Some
distancebelowcampIenteredaravineandclimbeduptothelevel,
andsoonfoundmyselfdeepinthefragrant,colorful,wildforest.
Likecominghomeagainwasittoenterthatforestofsilvertipped,
levelspreadingspruce,andgreat,gnarled,massivepines,and
oakpatchesofgreenandgold,andmaplethickets,withshining
aspens
standingwhiteagainsttheblazeofredandpurple.High,wavy,
bleachedgrass,brownmatsofpineneedles,graygreenmosswaving
fromthespruces,longstrandsofsunlightalltheseseemedto
welcomeme.

Atadistancetherewasaroarofwindthroughtheforest;closeat
handonlyasoftbreeze.Rustlingoftwigscausedmetocompose
myself
tolistenandwatch.Soonsmallgraysquirrelscameintoviewall
aroundme,brighteyedandsaucy,verycuriousaboutthisintruder.
Theybegantochatter.Othersquirrelswereworkinginthetopsof
trees,forIheardthefallofpinecones.Thencamethescreechof
bluejays.Soontheytoodiscoveredme.Themalebirdsweresuperb,
dignified,beautiful.Thecolorwaslightbluealloverwithdarkblue
headandtuftedcrest.Byandbyetheyceasedtoscoldme,andIwas
lefttolistentothewind,andtothetinypatterofdroppingseeds
andneedlesfromthespruces.Whatcool,sweet,freshsmellthis

215
woody,leafy,earthy,dry,grassy,odorousfragrance,dominatedby
scentofpine!Howlonesomeandrestful!Ifeltasenseofdeeppeace
andrest.Thisgoldengreenforest,barredwithsunlight,canopiedby
thebluesky,andmelodiouswithitssoughingmoanofwind,
absolutely
filledmewithcontentandhappiness.Ifastagorabearhadtrotted
outintomysight,andhadshowedmenoanimosity,notimprobablyI
wouldhaveforgottenmygun.MoreandmoreasIlivedintheopenI
grewreluctanttokill.

Presentlyaporcupinewaddledalongsomerodsaway,andunaware
ofmy
presenceitpassedbyandclimbedaspruce.Isawitclimbhighand
finallylostsightofit.InsearchingupanddownthisspruceIgrew
alivetowhatasplendidandbeautifultreeitwas.Wheresomany
treesgrewitalwaysseemeddifficulttosingleoutoneandstudy
it.Thissilversprucewasfivefeetthroughatthebase,rugged,
grayseamed,thickallthewaytoitsloftyheight.Itsbranches
weresmall,withasingularfeaturethattheywereuniforminshape,
length,anddroop.Mostallsprucebranchesdroopedtowardthe
ground.
Thatexplainedwhytheymadesuchexcellentsheltersfromrain.After
ahardstormIhadseenthegrounddryunderathickfoliagedspruce.
ManyatimehadImadeabedunderone.Elkanddeerstandunder
aspruceduringarain,unlessthereisthunderandlightning.In
forestsofhighaltitude,wherelightningstrikesmanytrees,Ihave
neverfoundorheardofelkanddeerbeingkilled.Thisparticular
sprucewasanaturaltentintheforest.Thethickspreadinggraceful
silverplumesextendedcleartothetop,wheretheywerebushiest,
androundedout,withallthelargestbranchesthere.Eachdarkgray
branchwasfringedandfestoonedwithpalegreenmoss,likethe
cypressesoftheSouth.

SuddenlyIheardasharpsnappingoftwigsandthenstealthy,light
steps.Ananimalofsomespecieswasmovinginthethicketnearby.

216
NaturallyIsustainedathrill,andbethoughtmeoftherifle.ThenI
peeredkeenlyintotheredroseshadowsofthethicket.Thesunwas
settingnow,andthoughthereappearedacleargoldenlighthigh
intheforest,alongthegroundtherewereshadows.Iheardleaves
falling,rustling.Tallwhiteaspensstoodoutofthethicket,andtwo
ofthelargeonesboretheoldblackscarsofbearclaws.Iwassure,
however,thatnobearhidinthethicketatthismoment.Presently
whatevertheanimalwasitpatteredlightlyawayonthefarside.
AfterthatIwatchedthequiveroftheaspenleaves.Someweregreen,
someyellow,somegold,buttheyallhadthesamewonderfultremor,
thesilentflutteringthatgavethemthemostexquisiteactionin
nature.Thesunset,theforestdarkened,remindingmeofsupper
time.
SoIreturnedtocamp.AsIenteredtheopencanyonRomerboy
espied
memanifestlyhehadbeenwatchingandheyelled:Herecomesmy
Daddynow!...Say,Dad,didyougetanypegs?

NextmorningHaughtaskedmeifIwouldliketoridearound
through
thewoodsandprobablygetashotatadeer.Romercoaxedsotogo
thatIfinallyconsented.

Werodedownthecanyon,andpresentlycametoawidegrassypark
inclosedbyhighgreencladslopes,thefeaturesofwhichappearedto
bethatthetimberonthewestslopewasmostlypine,andontheeast
slopeitwasmostlyspruce.Icouldarriveatnocertainreasonfor
this,butIthoughtitmustbeowingtothesnowlyingsomewhat
longer
ontheeastslope.Thestreamherewasrunningwithquitealittle
volumeofwater.Ourhorsesweregrazinginthispark.Isawfresh
elktracksmadethedaybefore.Elkwerequiteabundantthroughthis
forest,Haughtinformedme,andwereprotectedbylaw.

Acoupleofmilesdownthistrailthecanyonnarrowed,losingits

217
parklikedimensions.Thefartherwetraveledthemorewaterthere
wasinthestream,andmoreelk,deer,andturkeytracksinthe
sand.Everyhalfmileorsowewouldcometothemouthofasmall
intersectingcanyon,andatlengthwerodeuponeofthese,presently
toclimboutontop.Atthisdistancefromtherimtheforestwasmore
openthaninthevicinityofourcamp,affordingbetterridingand
hunting.Stillthethicketsofaspenandyoungpineweresofrequent
thatseldomcouldIseeaheadmorethanseveralhundredyards.

Haughtledtheway,IrodenextandRomerkeptbesidemewhereit
was
possibletodoso.Therewas,however,notrail.Howdifficulttokeep
theladquiet!IexpectedofcoursethatHaughtwoulddismount,and
takemetohuntonfoot.AfterawhileIgatheredhedidnothuntdeer
exceptonhorseback.Heexplainedthatcowboysroundedupcattlein
thisforestinthespringandfall,anddeerwerenotfrightenedat
soundorsightofahorse.Someofthethrillandinterestinthe
forestsubsidedforme.Ididnotliketohuntinacountrywhere
cattleranged,nomatterhowwildtheywere.Thenwhenwecametoa
forestedridgebareofgrassandsmellingofsheep,thatrobbedthe
forestofalittlemoreglamour.Mexicansheepherdersdrovetheir
flocksupthisfarsometimes.Haughtsaidbear,lion,lynx,and
coyote,sometimesthebiggraywolves,followedthesheep.Deer,
however,hatedasheeprunrange.

Ridingwasexceedinglypleasant.Theforestwasshady,cool,fullof
sunlightandbeauty.Nothingbutfireorthelumbermencouldever
rob
itofitsbeauty,silence,fragrance,andofitstemplelikemajesty.
SoprovidedwedidnotmeetanycattleorsheepIdidnotcare
whether
ornotwesightedanygame.InfactIwouldhaveforgottenwewere
huntinghadnotRomerbeenalong.Withhimcontinuallyseeing
things
itwasdifficulttokeepfromimaginingthatwewerehuntingIndians.

218
TheApacheshadoncelivedinthiscountryHaughtinformedus;and
it
wasahabitoftheirstoburnthegrassandfallenleavesoverevery
fall,thuskeepingdowntheunderbrush.InthistheIndiansshowed
how
nearsightedtheywere;thefuturegrowthofaforestdidnotconcern
them.UsuallyIndianswerebetterconservationiststhanwhitemen.

Werodeacrossagroveofwidelyseparated,statelypines,atthefar
endofwhichstoodathicketofyoungpinesandotherbrush.Aswe
nearedthisHaughtsuddenlyreinedin,andinquickandnoiseless
actionhedismounted.Thenhejerkedhisriflefromhissaddlesheath,
tookacoupleofforwardsteps,andleveledit.Iwassostruckwith
theruggedandsignificantpicturehemadethatIdidnotdismount,
anddidnotseeanygameuntilafterhefired.ThenasItumbledoff
andgotoutmyrifleIheardRomergaspingandcryingout.Agray
streakwithabobbingwhiteendflashedawayoutofsighttotheleft.
NextIsawadeerboundingthroughthethicket.Haughtfiredagain.
ThedeerransofastthatIcouldnotgetmysightsanywherenearhim.
Haughtthuddedthroughanopening,andaninstantlater,whenboth
he
andthedeerhaddisappeared,heshotthethirdtime.Presentlyhe
returned.

Nevercouldshootwiththemopensightsnohow,hesaid.ShoreI
missedthetyearlinbuckwhenhewasstandin.Whydidntyou
smoke
himup?

Dad,whydidntyoupeghim?askedRomer,withintenseregret.
Why,
Icouldhaveknockedhim.

Thenitwasincumbentuponmetoconfessthattheactionhad
appeared

219
tobealittleswift.Wal,saidHaught,whenyouseeoneyouwant
topileoffquick.

AswerodeonRomernaivelyaskedmeifeverinmylifeIhadseen
anythingrunsofastasthatdeer.Weenteredanotherbiggrovewith
thinpatchesofthickethereandthere.Haughtsaidtheseweregood
placesfordeertoliedown,relyingontheirnosestoscentdanger
fromwindward,andontheireyesintheotherdirection.Wecircledto
goroundthickets,descendingsomewhatintoaswale.HereHaught
got
offalittletotheright.RomerandIrodeupagentleslopetoward
athinlineoflittlepines,throughwhichIcouldseeintothepines
beyond.Suddenlyupjumpedthreebiggraybucks.LiterallyIfelloff
myhorse,bouncedup,andpulledoutmyrifle.Onebuckwasloping
in
athicket.Icouldseehisbroad,graybodybehindtheslendertrees.
Iaimedfollowedhimgotabeadonhimandwasjustabouttopull
triggerwhenhevanished.PlungingforwardIyelledtoHaught.Then
Romercriedinhisshrilltreble:Dad,heresabigbuckhurry!
TurningIranback.InwildexcitementRomerwaspointing.Iwasjust
intimetoseeagrayrumpdisappearinthegreen.JustthenHaught
shot,andafterthathehalloed.RomerandIwentthroughthethicket,
workingtoourleft,andpresentlycameoutintotheopenforest.
Haughtwasleadinghishorse.ToRomerseagerqueryhereplied:
Shore,Ipiledhimup.Twoyearoldblacktailbuck.

Sureenoughhehadshotstraightthistime.Thebucklaymotionless
underapine,withonepointofhisantlersimbeddeddeepinthe
ground.Asleek,gray,gracefuldeerhewasjustbeginningtogethis
wintercoat.Hiscolorwasindeedabluishgray.Haughthunghimup
toabranch,spreadhishindlegs,andcuthimdownthemiddle.The
huntersdexteritywithaknifemademewonderhowmanydeerhe
had
dressedinhislifeintheopen.Weliftedthedeeruponthesaddleof
Haughtshorseandsecurelytiedittherewithalasso;thenwiththe

220
hunteronfoot,leadingtheway,werodethroughtheforestupthe
mainridgebetweenBeaverandTurkeyCanyons.TowardtherimI
found
thepinesandspruceslarger,andthethicketsofaspendenser.We
passedtheheadsofmanyravinesrunningdowntothecanyonson
either
side,andthesewereblazinggoldandredincolor,andsothickI
couldnotseearodintothem.Aboutthemiddleoftheafternoonwe
reachedcamp.Withvenisonhanginguptocoolwefeltsomewhatlike
realhunters.R.C.hadgoneofftolookforturkeys,whichenterprise
hadbeenunsuccessful.

Uponthefollowingday,whichwasOctobertenth,westartedour
bear
hunting.Haughtsmethodappearedtometolacksomething.Hesent
the
houndsdownbelowtherimwithGeorge;andtakingR.C.andme,
andLee
andNielsen,heledusovertowhathecalledHortonThicket.Never
wouldIforgetmyfirstsightofthatimmenseforestchokedcanyon.
Itwasagreatcoverunningupfromthebasinintotherim.Craggy
ledges,broken,ruined,totteringandgray,slanteddownintothis
abyss.Theplacewassovastthattheseledgesappearedfarapart,yet
theyweremany.Anempireofsplinteredcliff!

Highupthesecrackedandstainedwallswerecoveredwithlichens,
withlittlesprucesgrowinginniches,andtinyyellowbushes.Points
ofcrumblingrockwerestainedgoldandrussetandbronze.Belowthe
hugegorgewasfullofaspens,maples,sprucesagreen,crimson,
yellowdensityoftimber,apparentlyimpenetrable.Wewereaccorded
differentstationsontheledgesallaroundthecove,andinstructed
tostaythereuntilcalledbyfourblastsfromahuntinghorn.My
pointwassofarfromR.C.s,acrossthecanyon,thatIhadtousemy
fieldglasstoseehim.WhenIdidlookheseemedcontented.Leeand
NielsenandHaughtIcouldnotseeatall.Findingacomfortableseat,

221
ifhardrockcouldeverbethat,Iproceededtoacceptmywaitfor
developments.Onethingwassureeventhoughitwereafutileway
to
huntitseemedrichinotherrecompenseforme.Mystandtowered
above
avastcolorfulslopedownwhichthewindroaredasinagale.How
couldIeverhearthehounds?Iwatchedthestormcloudsscudding
acrossthesky.OnceIsawararebird,ablackeagleinmagnificent
flight;andsowhateverhappenedIhadmyrewardinthatsight.

Nothinghappened.ForhoursandhoursIsatthere,withfrequent
intermissionsawayfrommyhard,rockyseat.Towardthecloseof
afternoon,whenthewindbegantogetcold,IsawthatR.C.hadleft
hisstand.Hehadundoubtedlygonebacktocamp,whichwassome
miles
nearerhisstandthanmine.AtlastIgaveupanyhopeofhearing
eitherthehoundsorthehorn,astheroarofwindhadincreased.Once
IthoughtIheardadistantrifleshot.SoIgotonmyhorseandset
outtofindcamp.Iwasonapromontory,thesidesofwhichwere
indentedbylongravinesthatwereimpassableexceptneartheir
heads.
InfactIhadbeentoldtherewasonlyonenarrowspacewhereitwas
possibletogetoffthispromontory.LuckyindeedthatIremembered
Haughttellingofthis!AnywayIsoonfoundmyselflostinamazeof
forestedheadsofravines.FinallyIwentbacktotherimonthe
westside,andthenworkingalongIfoundourhorsetracks.TheseI
followed,withdifficulty,andafteranhourstravelIcrossedthe
narrowneckofthepromontory,andbacktrackedmyselftocamp,
arrivingthereatsunset.

TheHaughtshadputuptwobear.Onebearhadworkedaround
underone
ofthegreatpromontories.Thehoundshadgottenonhisbacktrail,
stayingonituntilitgrewcold,thenhadleftit.Theirbayinghad
rousedthebearoutofhisbed,andhehadshowedhimselfonceor

222
twiceontheopenrockslides.Haughtsawtheotherbearfromthe
rim.
Thiswasabig,red,cinnamonbearasleepunderapinetreeonan
open
slope.Haughtsaidwhenthehoundsgavetongueontheothertrail
this
redbearawakened,satup,andwaggedhisheadslowly.Hehad
never
beenchasedbyhounds.Helaydowninhispinybedagain.The
distance
wastoogreatforanaccurateshot,butHaughttriedanyway,withthe
resultthatheatleastscaredthecinnamonoff.

Thesebearwereboththin.Astheywerenotthesheepkillingand
cowkillingkindtheirfoodconsistedmainlyofmast(acorns)and
berries.Butthisseasontherewerenoberriesatall,andveryfew
acorns.Sothebearswerenotfat.Whenabearwasthinhecould
alwaysoutrunthehounds;ifhewasfathewouldgethotandtired
enoughtoclimbatreeormadenoughtostopandfightthedogs.

Haughttoldmetherewereagoodmanymountainlionsandlynx
under
therim.Theylivedonelk,deer,andturkey.Thelynxwerethe
tufteared,shorttailedspecies.Theywouldattackandkilla
cowelk.Inwinterontherimthesnowsometimesfellfifteenfeet
deep,sothatthegamewinteredunderneath.Snowdidnotlaylong
on
thesunny,openridgesofthebasin.

Thatnightastormwindroaredmightilyinthepines.Howwonderful
to
liesnuginbed,downintheprotectedcanyon,andhearthemarching
andretreatinggaleaboveintheforest!Nextdayweexpectedrainor
snow.Buttherewasonlywind,andthatquietedbyafternoon.SoI
tookRomeroffintothewoods.Hecarriedhisrifleandheworehis

223
chaps.Icouldnotpersuadehimtopartwiththese.Theyrustledon
thebrushandimpededhismovements,andparticularlytiredhim,
and
madehimlooklikeadiminutivecowboy.Howeager,keen,boyishly
vain,imaginative!Hewascrazytoseegame,toshootanything,
particularlybears.Butitcontentedhimtohuntturkeys.Manya
stump
andbitofcolorhemistookforgameofsomekind.Nevertheless,I
hadtotakecredenceinwhathethoughthesaw,forhiseyesightwas
unusuallyquickandkeen.

ThatafternoonEddandDoylearrived,reportinganextremelyrough,
roundaboutclimbuptotherim,wheretheyhadleftthewagon.Asit
wasimpossibletohaulthesuppliesdownintothecanyonthey
werepackeddowntocamponburros.Isbelhaddisapprovedofthis
procedure,acircumstancethatstruckmewithpeculiarsignificance,
whichLeeexplainedbytellingmeIsbelwasoneofthepeculiarbreed
ofcowboys,whonosoonerweretheyoutontherangethanthey
wanted
togobacktotownagain.ThetruthwasIhadnotmetanyofthat
breed,thoughIhadheardofthem.ThispeculiarityofIsbelsbegan
toberelatedinmymindtohiswastefulnessasacook.Hecookedand
threwawayasmuchasweate.Iaskedhimtobecarefulandtogo
easywithoursupplies,butIcouldnotseethatmyrequestmadeany
difference.

AftersupperthiseveningR.C.heardaturkeycalluponthehilleast
ofcamp.ThenIheardit,andRomeralso.Weranoutawaysintothe
opentolistenthebetter.R.C.searswereexceptionallykeen.He
couldhearasquirreljumpalongdistanceintheforest.Inthiscase
hedistinctlyheardthreeturkeysflyupintotrees.Iheardone.
Romerdeclaredheheardaflock.ThenR.C.locatedabigbronzeand
whitegobbleronalowerlimbofahugepine.PresentlyItooespied
it.Whereuponwetookshotgunandrifle,andsalliedforthsureof
fetchingbacktocampsomewildturkeymeat.Romertaggedatour

224
heels.

Hurryingtotheslopeweclimbedupatleastthreequartersofthe
way,asswiftlyaspossible.Andthatwasworkenoughtomakeme
wet
andhot.Thesunhadsetandtwilightwasuponus,sothatweneeds
musthurryifweweretobesuccessful.Locatingthebiggobbler
turnedouttobeatask.Wehadtoclimboverbrushandaroundrocks,
upasteepslope,ratheropen;andwehadtodoitwithoutbeingseen
ormakingnoise.Romer,despitehiseagerness,didverywellindeed.
AtlastIespiedourquarry,andindeedthesightwasthrilling.
Wildturkeygobblerstome,whohadhuntedthemenoughtolearn
how
sagaciousandcunninganddifficulttostalktheywere,alwaysseemed
asprovocativeofexcitementaslargergame.Thisbigfellowhopped
up
fromlimbtolimbofthehugedeadpine,andhebobbedaroundasif
undecided,andtriedeachlimbforaplacetoroost.Thenhehopped
fartherupuntilwelostsightofhiminthegnarlednetworkof
branches.

R.C.wantedmetosliponalone,butIpreferredtohavehimand
Romer
gotoo.Soweslippedstealthilyupwarduntilwereachedthelevel.
Thenprogresswaseasier.Iwenttotheleftwiththerifle,andR.C.
withthe.20gauge,andRomer,wentaroundtotheright.Howrapidly
itwasgrowingdark!LowdownintheforestIcouldnotdistinguish
objects.Wecircledthatbigpinetree,andImaderatherawide
detour,perhapseightyyardsfromit.AtlastIgottheupperpartof
thedeadpinesilhouettedagainstthewesternsky.MovingtoandfroI
finallymadeoutalargeblacklumpwayoutuponaspreadingbranch.
Couldthatbethegobbler?Istudiedthatdarkenlargedpartofthe
limbwithgreatintentness,andIhadaboutdecidedthatitwasonly
aknotwhenIsawalongneckshootout.Thatlumpwasthewiseold
turkeyallright.Hewasalmostinthetopofthetreeandfarout

225
fromthetrunk.Nowildcatorlynxcouldeversurprisehimthere!I
reflectedupontheinstinctthatgovernedhimtoprotecthislifeso
cunningly.Safehewasfromallbutmanandgun!

WhenIcametoaimathimwiththerifleIfoundthatIcouldsee
onlyablurofsights.Otherbranchesandthetipofaveryhighpine
adjoiningmadeadarkbackground.Ichangedmyposition,working
aroundtowherethebackgroundwasallopensky.Itprovedtobe
better.ByputtingthesightsagainstthisopenskyIcouldfaintly
seethefrontsightthroughtheblurredring.Itwasagoodlongshot
evenfordaylight,andIhadarifleIknewnothingabout.Butallthe
difficultyonlymadeakeenerzest.JustthenIheardRomercryout
excitedly,andthenR.C.spokedistinctly.Farmorecarelessthanthat
theybegantobreaktwigsundertheirfeet.Thegobblergrewuneasy.
Howhestretchedouthislongneck!Heheardthembelow.Icalled
out
lowandsharp:Standstill!Bequiet!ThenIlookedagainthrough
theblurredpeepsightuntilIcaughtthefrontsightagainsttheopen
sky.ThisdoneImovedtherifleoveruntilIhadthesightaligned
againstthedarkshape.StrainingmyeyesIheldhardthenfired.The
bigdarklumponthebranchchangedshape,andfell,toalightwitha
soundingthump.IheardRomerrunning,butcouldnotseehim.Then
his
highvoicepealedout:Igothim,Dad.Youmadeagrandpeg!

NotonlyhadRomergottenhim,butheinsistedonpackinghimback
to
camp.ThegobblerwasthelargestIeverkilled,notindeedoneofthe
hugethirtyfivepounders,butafat,heavyturkey,andquiteaload
foraboy.Romerpackedhimdownthatsteepslopeinthedark
without
aslip,forwhichperformanceIallowedhimtostayupawhilearound
thecampfire.

TheHaughtscameoverfromtheircampthatnightandvisitedus.

226
Much
asIlovedtositalonebesidearedemberedfireatnightinthe
forest,oronthedesert,Ialsolikeduponoccasionstohavecompany.
Wetalkedandtalked.OldtimerDoyletoldmorethanoneofhisin
theearlydaysstories.ThenHaughttoldussomebearstories.The
firstwasaboutanoldblackbearchargingandslidingdownathim.
He
saidnohuntershouldevershootatabearabovehim,becauseitcould
comedownathimasswiftlyasarollingrock.Thistimeheworked
the
leverofhisrifleatlightningspeed,andatthelastshotheshore
sawbearhairrightbeforehiseyes.Hissecondstorywasabouta
boywhokilledabear,andwasskinningitwhenfivemorebearscame
along,insinglefile,andmadeitverynecessarythatheclimbatree
untiltheyhadgone.Histhirdstorywasaboutanoldshebearthat
hadtwocubs.Haughthappenedtoridewithinsightofherwhen
evidentlyshethoughtittimetoputhercubsinasafeplace.Soshe
triedtogetthemtoclimbasprucetree,andfinallyhadtocuffand
spankthemtomakethemgoup.Inconnectionwiththisstoryhetold
ushehadoftenseenshebearsspanktheircubs.Morethrillingwas
hisfourthstoryaboutahugegrizzly,asheepandcattlekillerthat
passedthroughthecountry,leavingdeathbehindhimontherange.

Romersenjoymentofthisstorytellinghouraroundtheglowing
campfirewasequalledbyhisreluctancetogotobed.Aw,Dad,
pleaseletmehearonemore,hepleaded.Hisshiningeyeswould
have
weakenedasternerdisciplinethanmine.AndHaughtseemed
inspiredby
them.

Walnow,listentothishyar,hebeganagain,withatwinkleinhis
eye.TharwasanoldfellarhadaranchinChevelonCanyon,anhe
wasalwaysbeinpesteredbymountainlions.HisnamewasBill
Tinker.

227
NowBillwasnosortofahunter,factwashewasafeerdoflionsan
bears,butheshoredidgitriledwhenanycrittersrustledaround
hiscabin.Onedayinthefallhecomeshomeanseenabigshelion
sneakinaround.Hegrabbedaclub,anthrowedit,andyelledto
scarethecritteraway.Wal,hehadanoldwaterbarrellayinaround,
andarnediftheliondidntruninthetbarrelanhide.Billrun
quickanfloppedthebarrelendup,sohehadtheliontrapped.He
hadtosetonthebarreltoholditdown.Shorethatlionraisedold
Jasperunderthebarrel.Billwasplumbscared.Thenheseenthe
lionstailstickoutthroughthebunghole.Billbentoveranshore
quicktiedaknotinthetlongtail.Thenherunferhiscabin.When
hegottothedoorhelookedbacktoseetheliontearindownthe
hillferthewoodswiththebarrelbumpinbehindher.Billsaidhe
neverseenheragaintillnextspring,anshehadthebarrelstillon
hertail.ButwhatwasstrangernthetBillsworeshehadfourcubs
withheraneachofthemhadakegonitstail.

WeallroaredwithlaughterexceptRomer.Hisinteresthadbeen
soallabsorbing,hisexcitementsogreat,andhisfaithinthe
storytellersoreverentialthatatfirsthecouldnotgraspthetrick
attheendofthestory.Hisfacewasradiant,hiseyesweredarkand
dilated.Whenthetruthdawneduponhim,amazeand
disappointment
changedhismobileface,andthencamemirth.Heshoutedasiftothe
treetopsonhigh.LongafterhewasinbedIheardhimlaughingto
himself.

Iwasawakenedalittleafterdaylightbytheladtryingtogetinto
hisboots.Hisbootswererathertight,andsomehow,eveninadry
forest,healwayscontrivedtogetthemwet,sothatinthemorningit
wasaherculeantaskforhimtopullthemon.Thisoccasionappeared
morestrenuousthanusual.Son,whatstheidea?Iinquired.Its
justdaylightnottimetogetup.Hedesistedfromhislabors
longenoughtopant:UncleRomesgoneafterturkeys.Eddsgoing
tocallthemwithacallermadeoutofaturkeyswingbone.And

228
Isaid:Buttheyvegonenow.Whereuponhesubsided:Darnedold
boots!IheardEddandUncleRome.IdbeenreadyifIcouldhavegot
intomydarnedoldboots....Seehere,Dad,Imgonnawear
moccasins.

III

Asweweresittingroundthecampfire,eatingbreakfast,R.C.and
Edd
returned;andR.C.carriedaturkeygobblertheverysizeandcolorof
theoneIhadshotthenightbefore.R.C.sfaceworethekeen,pleased
expressioncharacteristicofitwhenhehadjusthadsomeunusualand
satisfyingexperience.

Surewasgreat,hesaid,warminghishandsatthefire.Wewentup
onthehillwhereyoukilledyourgobblerlastnight.Gottherejust
inthegraylightofdawn.Wewerecarefulnottomakeanynoise.Edd
saidiftherewereanymoreturkeystheywouldcomedownat
daylight.
Sowewaiteduntilitwaslightenoughtosee.ThenEddgotouthis
turkeyboneandbegantocall.Turkeysansweredfromthetreesall
around.ByGeorge,itwasimmense!Eddhadpickedoutathicketof
littlepinesforustohidein,andinfrontofuswasagladewitha
bigfallentreelyingacrossit.Eddwaitedafewmoments.Thewoods
wasallgrayandquiet.IdontknowwhenIvefeltsogood.Thenhe
calledagain.Atonceturkeysansweredfromallaroundinthetrees.
NextIheardaswishofwings,thenathump.Thenmoreswishes.The
turkeyswereflyingdownfromtheirroosts.Itseemedtomeinmy
excitementthattherewereahundredofthem.Wecouldhearthem
patteringoverthedryground.Eddwhispered:Theyredown.Now
we
gottodosomerealcallin.Ifelthowtense,howcautioushewas.
Whenhecalledagaintherewassomelittledifference,Idontknow
what,unlessitwashiscallsoundedmorelikearealturkey.They

229
answered.Theyweregatheringinfrontofus,andImadesurewere
comingintotheglade.Eddstoppedcalling.Thenhewhispered:
Ready
now.Lookout!...SureIwaslookingallright.Thiswasmyfirst
experiencecallingturkeysandIsimplyshookallover.SuddenlyI
sawaturkeyheadstickupoverthelog.Then!uphoppedabeautiful
gobbler.Hewalkedalongthelog,lookedandpeered,andstretched
his
neck.Surehewassuspicious.Eddgavemeahunch,whichItookto
be
awarningtoshootquick.Thatwasahardplaceforme.Iwantedto
watchthegobbler.Iwantedtoseetheothers.Wecouldhearthemall
overtheglade.Butthiswasmychance.QuicklyIroseandtookapeg
athim.Acloudoffeatherspuffedoffhim.Hegaveagreatbounce,
flappinghiswings.Iheardaroaringwhirrofotherturkeys.Withmy
eyeonmygobblerIseemedtoseetheairfullofbig,black,flying
things.Mygobblercamedown,bouncedupagain,gotgoingwhen
with
thesecondbarrelIknockedhimcold.ThenIstoodtherewatchingthe
flockwhirringeverywayintotheforest.Musthavebeenthirtyfive
orfortyofthem,allgobblers.Itwasagreatsight.AndrighthereI
declaredmyselfwildturkeyisthegameforme.

Romermanifestlylistenedtothisnarrativewithmingledfeelingsof
delightanddespair.UncleRome,wildturkeysthegameforme,too
...andbyGosh!Illfixthosebootsofmine!

Thatmorningwewerescheduledforanotherbearhunt,onwhichI
had
decidedtogodownundertherimwithEddandGeorge.Leehadhis
doubtsaboutmyhorse,anddesiredmetotakehis,oratleastone
oftheothers.Nowhishorsewastoospiritedformetorideafter
hounds,andIdidnotwanttotakeoneoftheothers,soIwas
compelledtoridemyown.AtthelastmomentLeehadbeen
disappointed

230
ingettingamustangheparticularlywantedforme,andsoithad
fallenaboutthatmyhorsewasthepoorestintheoutfit,whichtoput
itmildlywasprettypoor.Ihadmadethebestofthemattersofar,
andhopedtocontinuedoingso.

WerodeuptheeastslopeofBeaverDamCanyon,throughtheforest,
andoutalongtherimforfiveorsixmiles,wayontheothersideof
thepromontorywhereIhadgottenlost.HereHaughtleftus,taking
withhimR.C.andLeeandNielsen,allofwhomweretohavestands
alongtherim.Wehopedtostartabearandchasehimroundunder
the
highpointstowardHortonThicket.

ThemagnificentviewfromtheheadofatrailwhereEddstarted
down
impressedmesopowerfullythatIlaggedbehind.Belowmeheaved
asplit,tossed,dimpled,waving,rollingworldofblackgreen
forestland.Faracrossitstooduparugged,blue,wavedrangeof
mountainstheSierraAnchas.

Thetrailwasrough,evenforArizonians,whichmadeitformelittle
shortofimpassable.Igotofftoleadmyhorse.Hehadtobepulled
mostofthetime,whereforeIlostpatiencewithhim.Ilovedhorses,
butnotstubbornones.Allthewaydowntherockytrailthebunch
grassandwildoakandmanzanitaweresothickthatIhadtocrush
my
waythrough.AtlengthIhaddescendedthesteepparttofindEdd
and
Georgewaitingformebelowonthejuniperbenches.Thesewere
slopes
ofredearthorclay,bareofgrass,butthickwithjunipers,cactus,
andmanzanita.Thisfaceofthegreatrimwasasouthernexposure,
hotanddusty.Thejuniperswerethick.Thegreenoftheirfoliage
somewhatresembledcedars,buttheirberriesweregrayblue,almost
lavenderincolor.Itastedseveralfromdifferenttrees,untilI

231
foundonewithsweet,somewhatacridtaste.Significantitwasthat
thisjuniperhadbrokenbrancheswherebearshadclimbedtoeatthe
fruit,andallaroundonthegroundbeneathwasbearsign.Eddsaid
thetrackswerecold,butallthesamehehadtobeharshwiththe
houndstoholdthemin.Icountedtwentypilesofbearmanureunder
onejuniper,andmanyplaceswherebearshadscrapedinthesoft
earth
andneedles.

Wewentondownthisslope,gettingintothickerbrushandrougher
ground.Allatoncethehoundsopenedupinthrillingchorusofbays
andbarks.IsawEddjumpoffhishorsetostoopandexaminethe
ground,whereevidentlyhehadseenabeartrack.Freshmadelast
night!heyelled,mountinghurriedly.Hi!Hi!Hi!Hishorseleaped
throughthebrush,andGeorgefollowed.Inaninstanttheywereout
of
sight.Righttheremytroublebegan.Ispurredmyhorseafterthem,
anditdevelopedthathedifferedfrommeinregardtodirectionand
going.Hehatedthebrush.ButImadehimtaketoitandmadehim
run.
Dodgingbrancheswasanoldstoryforme,andifIhadbeenona
good
fasthorseImighthavekeptEddandGeorgeinsight.Asitwas,
however,Ihadtofollowthembythesoundofhoofsandbreaking
brush.FromthewaythehoundsbayedIknewtheyhadstruckahot
scent.Theyworkeddowntheslope,andassuredlygavemeawild
ride
tokeepwithinhearingofthem.Myhorsegrewexcited,whichfact
increasedhispace,hisobstinacy,andlikewisemydanger.Twicehe
unseatedme.Itoremycoat,lostmyhat,scratchedmyface,skinned
myknees,butsomehowImanagedtokeepwithinhearing.

Icametoadeepbrushchokedgorge,impassableatthatpoint.
Luckily
thehoundsturnedhereandstartedbackmyway.Byridingalong

232
theedgeofthisgorgeIkeptupwiththem.Theyclimbedoutan
intersectingravineandupontheoppositeside.Iforcedmyhorseto
godownthisrathersteepsoftslope.AtthebottomIsawalittle
springofwaterwithfreshbeartracksaroundit,andoneplacewhere
thebearhadcavedinasoftbank.Heremyhorsesuddenlyplunged
and
wenttohiskneesintheyieldingredclay.Hesnortedinfright.The
bankslidwithhimandItumbledoff.Butnothingserioushappened.I
randown,caughthim,mounted,andspurredhimuptheotherside.
Once
uphebegantorun.Iheardtheboysyellingnotfarawayandthe
houndswerebayingupaboveme.Theywereclimbingfast,working
to
theleft,towardanoakthicket.Ittookefforttoslowdownmysteed.
HeactedcrazyandIbegantosuspectthathehadcaughtawhiffof
thebear.Mosthorsesareafraidofbearsandlions.SightofEddand
George,whoappearedinanopenspot,somewhatquietedmymount.

Trailsgettinhotupthere,declaredEdd.Thatbearsbedded
somewhereanIllbetthehoundsjumpedhim.ListentoOldTom!

HowthedeepsonorousbayofOldTomawoketheechoesunderthe
cliffs!AndOldDansvoicewasahoarsebellow.Theotherhounds
yelped.

Eddblewamellowblastfromhishuntinghorn,andthatawokeother
andmoremelodiousechoes.Theresfatherupontherim,hesaid.I
looked,andfinallysawHaughtperchedlikeablackeagleonacrag.
Hisgunflashedinthestrongsunlight.

Somewhereuptherethehoundsjumpedthebear.Anybodycould
havetold
that.Whatawildchorus!EddandGeorgeansweredtoitwith
whoops
aswild,andtheygallopedtheirhorsesovergroundandthrough

233
brush
wheretheyshouldhavebeenwalked.Ifollowed,ortriedtofollow;
andheremysteedshowedhisbullheaded,obstinatenature.Ifhehad
beenafraidbutstillgameIwouldhaverespectedhim,buthewasa
cowardandmean.Hewantedtohavehisway,whichwastogothe
other
direction,andtoridhimselfofme.Sowehadithotandheavy
alongthatroughslope,withhonorsabouteven.Asforbruisesand
scratches,however,Isustainedthemost.Intheexcitementofthe
chaseandangeratthehorseIforgotallaboutanyrisks.Thisalways
isthewayinadventure.Hotracingbloodgovernedmeentirely.
WheneverIgotoutinanopenplace,whereIcouldridefastandhear
andsee,thenitwasallintenselythrilling.Bothhoundsandcomrades
wereaboveme,butapparentlyworkingdown.

Thusformethenecessityofhurrysomewhatlessened.Islowedtoa
trot,peeringeverywhere,listeningwithallmyears.Ihadstopped
yelling,becausemyhorsehadmisunderstoodthat.Wegotintoa
regionofoakthickets,smallsaplings,scrubby,closetogether,but
beautifulwiththeirautumntintedleaves.NextIrodethrougha
maple
dell,shady,cool,wheretheleafyfloorwasallrosepinkred.My
horsesentthecoloredleavesflying.

Soon,however,wegotintothethicketsagain,lowliveoakand
manzanita,whichkindofbrushmyhorsedetested.Ididnotblame
himforthat.Asthehoundsbegantoworkdownmykeenexcitement
increased.IftheyhadjumpedthebearandwerechasinghimdownI
mightrunuponhimanymoment.Thisbothappealedtomeand
causedme
apprehension.Supposehewereabadcinnamonoragrizzly?What
would
becomeofmeonthathorse?IdecidedthatIhadbettercarrymyrifle
inmyhand,soincaseofasuddenappearanceofthebearandIwas
thrownorhadafalloff,thenIwouldbeprepared.SoforthwithI

234
drewtherifleoutofthescabbard,rememberingasIdidsothat
Haughthadcautionedme,incaseofclosequarterswithabearand
the
needofquickshooting,tojerktheleverdownhard.Ifmyhorsehad
cutupabominablybeforehenowbegantocoverhimselfwithaglory
ofabominableness.Ihadtojamhimthroughthethickets.Hewasan
uncomfortablehorsetorideunderthebestcircumstances;herehe
wasasbadasridingapicketfence.Whenhegothishead,whichwas
often,hecarriedmeintothicketsofmanzanitathatwecouldnot
penetrate,andhadtoturnback.IfoundthatIwasworkinghigh
uptheslope,andbadluckasIwashavingwithmyhorse,Istill
appearedtokeepfairlyclosetothehounds.

Whenwetoppedaridgeofthisslopethewindstruckusstronginthe
face.Thebayingofthehoundsrangclearandfullandfierce.My
horsestoodstraightup.Thenheplungedbackandbolteddownthe
slope.Hismouthwaslikeiron.Icouldneitherholdnorturnhim.
HoweverperilousthisrideIhadtoadmitthatatlastmyhorsewas
runningbeautifully.Infacthewasrunningaway!Hehadgottenahot
scentofthatbear.Hehurdledrocks,leapedwashes,sliddownbanks,
plungedoverplacesthatmademyhairstandupstiff,andworstofall
hedidnottrytoavoidbrushortreesorcactus.Manzanitahetore
rightthrough,leavingmycoatinstripsdecoratingourwake.Ihadto
holdon,tolieflat,tododgeandtwist,andallthetimewatchfora
placewhereImightfalloffinsafety.ButIdidnotgetachance
tofalloff.Aloudclamoringburstfromthehoundsapparentlyclose
behinddrovemyhorsefrantic.Beforehehadonlyrunnowheflew!
Heleftmehanginginthethickbranchesofajuniper,fromwhichI
droppedblindandbreathlessandstunned.Disengagingmyselffrom
the
brokenandhangingbranchesIstaggeredaside,rifleinhand,trying
torecoverbreathandwits.

Then,inthatnervelessandshakencondition,Iheardthebreaking
oftwigsandthudofsoftstepsrightaboveme.Peeringupwithmy

235
halfblindedeyesIsawahugeredfurryanimalcoming,halfobscured
bybrush.Itwavedasidefromhisbroadback.Ashockranovermea
burstinggushofhotbloodthatturnedtoiceasitrushed.Big
cinnamonbear!Iwhispered,hoarsely.

InstinctivelyIcockedandleveledtherifle,andthoughIcouldnot
clearlyseetheredanimalbearingdowntheslope,suchwasmystate
thatIfired.Thenfollowedaroaringcrashaterriblebreaking
onslaughtuponthebrushandthehugeredmassseemedtoflash
down
towardme.Iworkedtheleveroftherifle.ButIhadforgotten
Haughtscaution.Ididnotworktheleverfarenoughdown,sothat
thenextcartridgejammedinthereceiver.Withasecondshock,
differentthistime,Itriedagain.Invain!Theterriblecrashing
ofbrushappearedrightuponme.ForaninstantthatseemedanageI
stoodrivetedtothespot,mybloodcongealing,myheartchokingme,
mytonguepastedtotheroofofmymouth.ThenIdroppedtherifle
andwhirledtoplungeaway.LikeadeerIbounded.Itookprodigious
bounds.Toescapetofindatreetoleapintothatwasmyonly
thought.AfewrodsdowntheslopeitseemedamileIreacheda
pine
withlowbranches.LikeasquirrelIranupthisstraddledalimb
highupandgazedback.

Mysensationsthenweredominatedbythereliefofsalvation.I
became
consciousofthem.Racingblood,burstingheart,laboredpangof
chest,prickling,burningskin,aqueerinvoluntaryflutterof
muscles,likeapalsytheseattestedtotheinstinctiveprimitive
natureofmystate.Iheardthecrashingofbrush,thepoundofsoft
jumpsovertomyleft.WitheyesthatseemedmagnifyingIgazedto
see
abigredwoollysteerplungewildlydowntheslopeanddisappear.A
thirdshockpossessedmeamaze.Ihadmistakenawild,frightened
steerforaredcinnamonbear!

236

Isattheresomemomentsstraddlingthatbranch.ThenIdescended,
and
wentbacktotheplaceIhaddroppedmyrifle,andsecuringthatI
stoodamomentlistening.Thehoundshadtakenthechasearound
below
meintothegorgeandweredrawingaway.Itwasuselesstotryto
followthem.Isatdownagainandgavemyselfuptomeditation.

Itriedtotreatthesituationasahugejoke,butthatwouldnotgo.
Nojokeindeed!Myhorsehadmademerisktoomuch,myexcitement
had
beentoointense,myfrighthadbeentooterrible.Realityforme
couldnothavebeenanymoregrave.Ihadriskedmyneckona
stubborn
cowardofahorse,Ihadmistakenasteerforabear,Ihadforgotten
howtomanipulatetheborrowedrifle.Thesewerethecareless
elements
oftragedy.Thethoughtsoberedme.Itookthelessontoheart.AndI
reflectedonthepossiblepointofviewofthebear.Hehadprobably
gonetosleeponafullstomachofjuniperberriesandabigdrink
ofspringwater.Rudelyhehadbeenroutedoutbyapackofyelping,
fiendishhounds.Hehadtorunforhislife.Whathadhedoneto
deservesuchtreatment?Possiblyhemighthavekilledsomeof
Haughts
pigs,butmostassuredlyhehadneverharmedme.Inmysoberframe
of
mindthenIratherdisapprovedofmywhollyunjustifiablemurderous
intent.Iwouldhavedeserveditifthesteerhadreallybeenthe
bear.CertainlyIhopedthebearwouldoutrunthehoundsandescape.
I
weighedthewonderfulthrillofthechase,themelodyofhounds,the
zestofspiritedaction,theperiltolimbandlifeagainstthething
thattheyweredonefor,withtheresultthatIfoundthemsadly
lacking.Periltolimbandlifewasgoodforman.Ifthishadnotbeen

237
afactmyperformancewouldhavebeenascowardlyasthatofmy
horse.AgainIhadriseupbeforemymindthespectacleofopposing
forcestheelementalinmanrestrainedbythespiritual.Thentheold
hauntingthoughtreturnedtovexmemaninhisdevelopment
neededthe
exerciseofbrawn,muscle,boneredblood,violence,laborandpain
andagony.Naturerecognizedonlythesurvivalofthefittestof
anyspecies.Ifamanallowedaspiritualdevelopment,intellect,
gentleness,tokeephimfromallhard,violentaction,fromtremendous
exertion,fromfiercefightwithelementsandbeasts,andhisown
kindwouldhenotsoondegenerateasanaturalphysicalman?
Evolutionwasasterninevitableseekingofnatureforperfection,
fortheunattainable.Thisperfectionwassomethingthatlivedand
improvedonstrife.Barbarians,Indians,savageswerethemost
perfectspecimensofnatureshandiwork;andinproportiontotheir
developmenttowardsocalledcivilizedlifetheirphysicalprowess
and
perfectnessthatwastosay,theirstrengthtoresistandliveand
reproducetheirkindabsolutelyandinevitablydeteriorated.

Myreflectiondidnotcarrymeatthattimetoanypositive
convictionsofwhatwastruestandbest.TheonlyconclusionsI
eventuallyarrivedatwerethatIwassoreandbruisedanddirtyand
tornthatIwouldbehappyifthebeargotawaythatIhadlostmy
meanhorseandwasgladthereforethatIwouldhavehalfadozen
horsesandriflesuponmynexthuntandlastlythatIwouldnotbein
anyhurrytotellaboutmistakingasteerforabear,andclimbinga
tree.Indeedtheselastfactshavebeenreligiouslykeptsecretuntil
chronicledhere.

Shortlyafterward,asIwasmakingalameandslowheadwaytoward
HortonThicket,whereIhopedtofindatrailout,IheardEdd
yelling,andIanswered.Presentlywemet.Hewasleadingmyhorse,
andsomeofthehounds,notablyOldTomandDan,werewithhim.

238
Wheresthebear?Iasked.

Hegotawaydowninthebreaks,repliedEdd.Georgeistryinto
callthehoundsback.Whathappenedtoyou?Iheardyoushoot.

Myhorsedidntcaremuchformeorthebrush,Ireplied.Heleft
merathersuddenly.AndItookashotatwhatIthoughtwasabear.

Iseenhimonce,saidEdd,witheyesflashing.Wasjustgointo
smokehimupwhenhejumpedoutofsight.

MymortificationandapprehensionweresomewhatmitigatedwhenI
observedthatEddwasdirty,ragged,andalmostasmuchdisheveled
as
Iwas.Ihadfearedhewouldseeinmyappearancecertain
unmistakable
evidencesthatIhadmadeatenderfootblunderandthenrunfor
mylife.ButEddtookmylossofhat,andtorncoat,andgeneral
bedraggledstateasamatterofcourse.IndeedIsomehowfeltalittle
prideathisacceptanceofmethereintheflesh.

Werodearoundtheendofthisslope,graduallyworkingdowninto
HortonThicket,whereawildconfusionofdensetimberengagedmy
sight.PresentlyGeorgetrottedupbehinduswiththeotherdogs.We
losthimdownonthehotdryridges.Houndscouldnttrackhim,was
allGeorgesaid.ThereuponEddblewfourblastsuponhishunting
horn,
whichweresignalstothoseonthestandsabovethatthehuntwas
over
fortheday.

EveninthejungletropicsIhadneverseensuchdenseshadeasthis
downinHortonThicket.Thetimbergrewcloseandlarge,andthe
foliagewasmatted,lettinglittlesunlightthrough.Dark,greenand
brown,fragrant,coolthicketindeeditwas.Wecametoahugespruce

239
tree,thelargestIeversawEddsaideightfeetthroughatthebase,
buthewasconservative.Itwasagnarled,bearded,gray,oldmonarch
oftheforest,withbleached,deadtop.Formanyyearsithadbeenthe
homeofswarmsofwildhoneybees.Eddsaidmorethanonebee
hunter
hadundertakentocutdownthisspruce.Thisexplainedanumberof
deeplycutnotchesinthehugetrunk.IllbetNielsencouldchopit
down,declaredEdd.Iadmittedthecomplimenttoourbrawny
Norwegian
axewielder,butaddedthatIcertainlywouldnotlethimdoit,
whetherweweretogetanyhoneyornot.

Byandbyewereachedthebottomofthethicketwherewecrosseda
swiftclearcoldbrook.Herethesmellsseemedcool,sweet,wildwith
spruceandpine.Thisstreamofgranitewaterburstfromaspring
underacliff.Whataroaritmade!IdrankuntilIcoulddrinkno
more.Hugebouldersandwindfalls,movedbywateratfloodseason,
obstructedthenarrowstreambed.Wecrossedtostartclimbingthe
northslope,andsoonworkedupoutofthethicketuponasteep,
rocky
slope,withisolatedpines.Westruckadeertrailhardtofollow.
Abovemeloomedthepinetippedrim,withitscrags,cliffs,
pinnacles,andwalls,allgray,seamedandstained,andinsomeclefts
blazesofdeepredandyellowfoliage.

Whenwesurmountedtheslope,andeventuallyreachedcamp,I
found
Isbelentertainingstrangers,menofroughgarb,evidentlyridersof
therange.Thatwasallright,butIdidnotlikehisprodigalitywith
ourswiftlydiminishingstoreofeatables.

ToconcludeaboutIsbelmatterspertainingtoourcommissary
department,duringthenextfewdays,wentfrombadtoworse.Doyle
advisedmenottotakeIsbeltotask,andwasratherevasiveof
reasonsforsoadvisingme.OfcourseIlistenedandattendedtomy

240
oldguidesadvice,butIfrettedundertherestraint.Wehadaspell
ofbadweather,windandrain,andhailoffandon,andatlength,the
thirdday,acolddrizzlingsnow.Duringthisspellwedidbutlittle
hunting.Theweatherchanged,andthedayafterwardIrodemymean
horsetwentymilesonadeerhunt.Wesawonebuck.Uponour
arrival
atcamp,aboutfouroclock,whichhourwastooearlyfordinner,I
wassurprisedandangeredtofindIsbeleatinganelaboratemealwith
threemorestrange,roughappearingmen.Doylelookedserious.
Nielsen
hadasharpglintinhisgrayeye.Asformyself,thisprocedureof
ourcookswasmorethanIcouldstand.

Isbel,youredischarged,Isaid,shortly.Takeyouroutfitandget
out.Leewilllendyouapackhorse.

Wal,Iaintfired,drawledIsbel.Iquitbeforeyourodein.Beat
youtoit!

Thenifyouquititseemstomeyouaretakinglibertieswith
suppliesyouhavenorightto,Ireplied.

Nope.Cookofanyoutfithasarighttoallthechuckhewants.
Thatswesternway.

Isbel,listentothisandthengetout,Iwenton.Youvewasted
oursuppliesjusttogetustohurryandbreakcamp.Asforwestern
waysIknowsomethingofthem.Itsawesternwayforamantobe
squareandhonestinhisdealingswithanoutsider.Inallmyyears
andinallmytripsoverthesouthwestyouarethefirstwesternerto
givemethedoublecross.Youhavethatdistinction.

ThenIturnedmybackuponhimandwalkedtomytent.His
acquaintancesleftatonce,andhequicklypackedandfollowed.
FaithfuloldDoyletookupthedutiesofcookandwegained,rather

241
thanmissedbythechange.Oursupplies,however,hadbeenso
depleted
thatwecouldnotstaymuchlongeronthehunt.

Bydintofmuchdeterminationastothemannerandmethodofmy
next
huntImanagedtopersuademyselfthatIcouldmakethebestofthis
unluckysojourninthewoods.Norifle,nohorseworthriding,no
food
tostayoutourtimeitwasindeedbadluckforme.Aftersupperthe
tensionrelaxed.ThenIrealizedallthemenwererelieved.Only
Romer
regrettedlossofIsbel.WhentheDoylesandHaughtssawhowItook
myhardlucktheyseemedallthekeenertomakemystaypleasant
and
profitable.Littletheyknewthattheirregardwasmoretomethan
materialbenefitsandcomfortsofthetrip.Totravelersofthe
desertandhuntersandridersoftheopentherearealwayshardand
uncomfortableandpainfulsituationstobemetwith.Andinmeeting
these,ifitcanbedonewithfortitudeandspiritthatwinthe
respectofwesterners,itisindeedareward.

Nextday,indefianceofathingwhichnevershouldbe
consideredluckItookHaughtsrifleagain,andmylazy,sullen,
intractablehorse,androdewithEddandGeorgedownintoHorton
Thicket.AtleastIcouldnotbecheatedoutoffreshairand
beautifulscenery.

Wedismountedandtiedourhorsesatthebrook,andwhileEddtook
thehoundsupintothedensethicketwherethebearsmadetheirbeds,
GeorgeandIfollowedatrailupthebrook.Inexactlytenminutesthe
houndsgavetongue.Theyranupthethicket,whichwasfavorablefor
us,andfromtheirbayingIjudgedthebeartrailtobewarm.Inthe
denseforestwecouldnotseefiverodsahead.Georgeaverredthathe
didnotcaretohaveabigcinnamonoragrizzlycomerunningdown

242
thatblackthicket.AndasformyselfIdidnotwantonesovery
exceedinglymuch.Itriedtokeepfromlettingthehoundsexciteme,
whicheffortutterlyfailed.Wekeptevenwiththehoundsuntiltheir
bayingfelloff,andfinallygrewdesultory,andthenceased.
Guesstheyhadthewrongendofhistrail,saidGeorge.Withthis
exasperatingfeatureofbearandlionchasesIwasfamiliar.Most
hounds,whentheystruckatrail,couldnottellinwhichdirection
thebearwastraveling.Areallyfinehound,however,likeBuffalo
JonesfamousDon,orScottTeaguesSampsonorHaughtsOldDan,
wouldgrowsuspiciousofascentthatgraduallycooled,andwould
eventuallygiveitup.Younghoundswouldbacktrackgameasfaras
possible.

Afterwaitingawhilewereturnedtoourhorses,andpresentlyEdd
camebackwiththepack.Bigbear,butcoldtrail.Calledthemoff,
wasallhesaid.WemountedandrodeacrossthemouthofHorton
Thicketroundtothejuniperslopes,whichIhadoccasionto
remember.
IevensawthepinetreewhichIhadsoignominiouslyclimbed.How
we
ridiculeandscornsomeofourperfectlynaturalactionsafterwards!
Eddhadbroughtthreeofthepupsthatday,twoyearoldsasfullof
mischiefaspupscouldbe.Theyjumpedabunchofdeerandchased
them
outonthehardredcedarcoveredridges.Wehadamerrychaseto
head
themoff.Eddgavethematonguelashingandthrashingatoneand
the
sametime.Ifeltsorryforthepups.Theyhadbeensofulloffrolic
andfight.HowcrestfallentheyappearedafterEddgotthrough!
Whaddayemean,yelledEdd,inconclusion.Chasindeer!...Doyou
thinkyourealotofrabbitdogs?FromthewaythepupseyedEdd
sosheepishlyandadoringly,Imadecertaintheyunderstoodhim
perfectly,andhumblyconfessedtheirerror.

243
OldTomandOldDanhadnotcomedownofftheslopeswithusafter
the
pups.Anduponourreturnboththeoldhoundsbegantobaydeep
and
fast.Withshrillkiyithepupsboundedoff,apparentlyfranticto
makeupformisbehavior.Soonthewholepackwasinfullchorus.
EddandGeorgespurredintothebrush,yellingencouragementtothe
hounds.ThisdayImanagedtomakemyhorsedoalittleofwhatI
wanted.TokeepinsightoftheHaughtboyswasindeedbeyondme;
but
Ididnotlosesoundofthem.Thischaseledusupslopeanddown
slope,throughthebrushandpinethickets,overbareridgesandinto
gullies;andeventuallyoutintothebasin,wherethehoundsgot
beyondhearing.

Oneofthemlong,lean,hungrybears,remarkedEdd.Hedoutrun
any
dogs.

Leisurelythenweturnedtothethreehourridebacktocamp.Hotsun
intheopen,coolwindintheshade,drysmellsoftheforest,green
andredandorangeandpurpleofthefoliagetheserenderedthe
hours
pleasantforme.WhenIreachedcampIfoundRomerintrouble.He
had
cuthishandwithaforbiddenhuntingknife.Ashetoldmeaboutit
hisfacewasastudyandhisexplanationwasastounding.Whenhe
finishedIsaid:Youmeanthenthatmyhuntingknifewalkedoutof
itssheathonmybeltandfollowedyouaroundandcutyouofitsown
accord?

Aw,IIithefloundered.

WhereuponIlecturedhimaboutforbiddenthingsanduntruthfulness.
Hisreplywas:But,Dad,ithurtslikesixty.Wontyouputsomethin

244
onit?

Idressedandbandagedthetriflingcutforhim,tellinghimthewhile
howlittleIndianboys,whencutorkickedorbruised,nevershowed
thattheywerehurt.Huh!hegrunted.GuesstheresnoIndianin
me....Imusttakeaftermother!

Thatafternoonandnightthehoundsstraggledin,OldTomandDan
first,andthentheothers,onebyone,faggedoutandfootsore.Next
morning,however,theyappearednonetheworsefortheirlongchase.
WewentagaintoHortonThickettoroutoutabear.

ThistimeIremainedontopoftherimwithR.C.andNielsen;andwe
tookupastandacrossthecanyon,nearwheremyfirststandhad
been.Hereweidledthehoursawaywaitingforthehoundstostart
something.WhilewalkingalongtherimIhappenedtolookacrossthe
bigcovethatcutintothepromontory,andwayontheotherslope
what
didIespybutablackbear.Heappearedtobeverysmall,ormerelya
cub.RunningbacktoR.C.andNielsenItoldthem,andwealltookup
ourrifles.Itoccurredtomethatthedistanceacrossthiscovewas
toofarforaccurateshooting,butitneveroccurredtometojumpon
myhorseandridearoundtheheadofthecove.

Hesnotscared.Letswatchhim,suggestedR.C.

Wesawthisbearwalkalong,pokearound,digintotheground,go
behind
trees,comeoutagain,andfinallystanduponhishindfeetand
apparentlyreachforberriesorsomethingonabush.R.C.bethought
himselfofhisfieldglass.Afteronelookheexclaimed:Say,fellows,
hesawhopperofabear!Hellweighfivehundredpounds.Justtakea
lookathim!

MyturnwiththeglassesrevealedtomethatwhatIhadimaginedto

245
be
acubwasindeedabigbear.AfterNielsenlookedhesaid:Neversaw
onesobiginNorway.

Well,lookatthatblackscoundrel!exclaimedR.C.Standingup!
Lookingaround!Wagginghishead!...Say,yousawhimfirst.Suppose
youtakesomepegsathim.

WishRomerwerehere.Idlethimshootatthatbear,Ireplied.
ThenIgotdownonmyknee,andaimingascloselyaspossibleIfired.
Thereportrangoutinthestillness,makinghollowechoes.Weheard
thebulletpatsomewhere.Sodidthebearhearit.Curiouslyhelooked
around,asifsomethinghadstrucknearhim.Butscaredhecertainly
wasnot.ThenIshotfourtimesinquicksuccession.

Well,Illbedarned!ejaculatedR.C.Heheardthebulletshitand
wonderswhatthedickens....Say,nowhehearsthereports!Lookat
himstand!

Boys,smokehimup,Isaid,afterthemannerofHaughtsvernacular.
SowhileIreloadedR.C.andNielsenbegantoshoot.Wehadmore
fun
outofitthanthebear.Evidentlyhelocatedus.Thenhebeganto
run,choosingtheopenslopebywhichhehadcome.Igotfivemore
shotsathimashecrossedthisspace,andthelastbulletpuffed
updustunderhim,makinghimtakeaheaderdowntheslopeinto
thethicket.Whereuponweallhadagoodlaugh.Nielsenappeared
particularlypleasedoverhisfirstshotsatareallivebear.

Say,whydidntyouthinktorideroundthere?queriedR.C.
thoughtfully.Hedidntseeus.Hewasntscared.Inafewminutes
youcouldhavebeenontherimofthatsloperightoverhim.Gothim
sure!

R.C.whydidntyouthinktotellmetodothat?Iretorted.Why

246
dontweeverthinktherightthingbeforeitistoolate?

ThatsourlastchancethisyearIfeelitinmybones,declared
R.C.mournfully.

Hispremonitionturnedouttobecorrect.Uponourarrivalatcamp
we
heardsomeverydisquietingnews.AneighborofHaughtshadtaken
the
troubletorideuptoinformusabouttheepidemicofinfluenza.The
strangediseasewasalloverthecountry,inthecities,thevillages,
thecowcamps,themineseverywhere.AtfirstIthoughtHaughts
informantwasexaggeratingamererumor.Butwhenhetoldofthe
Indiansdyingonthereservations,andthatinFlagstaffeighty
peoplehadsuccumbedinafewweeksthenIwasthoroughly
alarmed.
Imperativewasitindeedformetomakeadecisionatonce.Imadeit
instantly.Wewouldbreakcamp.SoItoldthemen.Doylewas
relieved
andglad.Hewantedtogethometohisfamily.TheHaughts,
naturally,
weresorry.Mydecisiononcearrivedat,thenextthingwasto
considerwhichwaytotravel.Thelongtendaytripdownintothe
basin,roundbyPayson,andupontherimagain,andsoonto
Flagstaffwasnottobeconsideredatall.Theroadsbywayof
Winslow
andHolbrookwerelongandbad.Doylewantedtoattempttheold
army
roadalongtherimmadebyGeneralCrookwhenhemovedthe
captured
Apachestothereservationassignedtothem.Notraveloverthisroad
formanyyears!Haughtlookeddubious,butfinallysaidwecould
chop
ourwaythroughthickets,andhaulthewagonemptyupbadhills.
The

247
matterofdecisionwaslefttome.Decisionsofsuchnaturewerenot
easytomake.Theresponsibilitywasgreat,butasthehunthadbeen
formeitseemedincumbentuponmetoacceptresponsibility.What
made
mehesitateatallwasthefactthatIhadriddenfivemilesormore
alongtheoldCrookroad.Iremembered.ItoldLeeandItoldNielsen
thatwewouldfindittoughgoing.Leelaughedlikeacowboy:Well
goahummin,hesaid.Nielsenshruggedhisbrawnyshoulders.
What
wereobstaclestothismanofthedesert?Irealizedthathislookhad
decidedme.

Allright,men,welltrytheoldCrookroad,Isaid.Packwhatyou
canuptothewagontoday,andtomorrowearlywellbreakcamp.

IwalkedwiththeHaughtsfromourcampacrossthebrooktotheirs,
wherewesatdowninthewarmsunshine.Imadelightofthishunting
tripinwhichithadturnedoutIhadnogun,nohorse,noblankets,
norainprooftent,noadequateamountoffoodsupplies,andnogood
luck,exceptthewonderfulgoodluckofbeingwell,ofseeinga
magnificentcountry,ofmeetingsomemorefinewesterners.Butthe
Haughtsappearedalittleslowtograsp,oratleasttocreditmy
philosophy.Wewerejustbeginningtogetacquainted.Theirregret
was
thattheyhadbeenunabletoseemegetabear,adeer,alion,and
someturkeys.Theirconviction,perhapsformedfromassociationwith
manysportsmanhunters,wasthatowingtomybadluckIcouldnot
and
wouldnotwanttocomeagain.

Seehere,Haught,Isaid.Ivehadafinetime.Nowforgetabout
thishunt.Itspast.Wellplananother.Willyousavenextfallfor
me?

Ishorewill,hereplied.

248

Verywell,then,itssettled.SaybyAugustyouandtheboyscut
atrailortwoinandoutofHortonThicket.Illsendyoumoneyin
advancetopayforthiswork,andgetnewhoundsandoutfit.Ill
leaveFlagstaffonSeptemberfifteenth.MeetyouhereSeptember
twentyfirst,alongaboutnoon.

Weshookhandsuponthedeal.ItpleasedmethattheHaughts
laughed
atmeyetappearedbothsurprisedandhappy.AsIleftIheardEdd
remark:Notakick!...Meethimnextyearatnoon!Whatdoyouknow
aboutthet?Thisremarkprovedthathehadpaidmeacomplimentin
easternslangmostlikelyassimilatedfromR.C.andRomer.

Therestoftheafternoonourcampresembledabeehive,andnext
morningitwasmorelikeabedlam.Thehorseswerefresh,spirited,
andtheyhadtenderbacks;theburrosstampededbecauseofsome
surreptitioustrickofRomers.Butbynoonwehadalltheoutfit
packedinthewagon.Consideringtheamountofstuff,andthelong,
roughclimbuptothewagon,thiswasamostauspiciousstart.I
hopedthatitauguredwellforus,butwhileIhopedIhadagloomy
foreboding.WebadegoodbyetoHaughtandhissonGeorge.Edd
offered
togowithusasfarasheknewthecountry,whichdistancewasnot
manymiles.Sowesetoutuponourdoubtfuljourney,oursaddle
horses
infrontofthelumberingwagon.

Wehadfivemilesoffairlylevelroadthroughopenforestalongthe
rim,andthenwestrucksucharockyjumbleofdownhillgradethat
the
bundlesfelloffthewagon.Theyhadtobetiedon.Whenwecametoa
longslowslantuphill,aroadoflooserocks,wemadeaboutonemile
anhour.Thisslowtravelworkedhavocuponmymind.Iwantedto
hurry.Iwantedtogetoutofthewilds.Thatawfulrumorabout

249
influenzaoccupiedmymindandstruckcoldfearintomyheart.What
ofmyfamily?Nomakingthebestofthis!Slowlywetoiledon.Sunset
overtookusatarockyledgewhichhadtobesurmounted.Withlassos
onsaddlehorsesinfrontofthetwoteams,allpullinghard,we
overcamethatobstacle.Butatthenextlittlehill,whichwe
encounteredabouttwilight,oneoftheteamhorsesbalked.Urging
him,
whippinghim,servednopurpose;andithadbadeffectuponthe
other
horses.DarknesswasuponuswiththecampsiteEddknewofstill
milestothefore.Nograss,nowaterforthehorses!Butwehadto
campthere.Allhandssettowork.Itreallywasfunitshouldhave
beenfineformebutmygloomyobsessiontohurryobscuredmy
mind.
ImarveledatoldDoyle,overseventy,afterthatlong,hardday,
quicklyandefficientlycookingagoodhotsupper.Romerhadenjoyed
theday.Hesaidhewastired,butwouldliketostayupbesidethe
mightycampfireNielsenbuilt.Ihadneitherenergyorspiritto
opposehim.Thenightwasdarkandcoldandwindy;thefirefeltso
goodthatIalmostwentasleepbesideit.Wehadnotimetoputup
tents.Imadeourbed,crawledintoit,stretchedoutwithinfinite
relief;andthelastthingIwasawareofwasRomersnugglingin
besideme.

Morningbroughtanearlybestirringofeveryone.Wehadtostirto
getwarm.Theairnippedlikecoldpincers.Allthehorsesweregone;
wecouldnothearabell.ButLeedidnotappearworried.Igroanedin
spirit.Moredelay!Gloomassailedme.Leesalliedoutwithhisyellow
dogPups.IhadforgottenthegoodqualityofPups,butnotmydislike
forhim.Hebarkedvociferously,andthatannoyedme.R.C.andI
helpedEddandNielsenpackthewagon.Weworkedquickandhard.
Then
Doylecalledustobreakfast.Wehadscarcelystartedtoeatwhenwe
heardajangleofbellsandthepoundofhoofs.Icouldnotbelieve
myears.Ourhorseswerelost.Neverthelesssuddenlytheyappeared,

250
drivenbyLeeridingbareback,andPupsbarkinghisheadoff.Weall
jumpedupwithropesandnosebagstoheadoffthehorses,andsoon
hadthemsecured.Notonemissing!IaskedLeehowintheworldhe
had
foundthatwildbunchinlessthananhour.Leelaughed.Pups.He
roundedthemupinnotime.

ThenIwantedtogoawayandhidebehindathicketandkickmyself,
butwhatIactuallydidwastogivePupspartofmymeat.I
reproached
myselfformyinjusticetohim.HowoftenhadIbeendeceivedin
thesurfaceappearanceofpeopleandthingsanddogs!Mostofour
judgmentsarewrong.Wedonotseeclearly.

Bynineoclockweweremeetingourfirstobstaclethelittlehillat
whichthesorrelhorsehadbalked.Lo!restedandfullofgrain,he
balkedagain!Heruinedourstart.Hespoiledtheteams.Leehadmore
patiencethanIwouldhavehad.Heunhitchedtheleadteamandin
placeofthesorrelputasaddlehorsecalledPacer.ThenDoyletried
againandsurmountedthehill.Oursaddlehorsesslowlyworked
ahead
overasrockyandrougharoadasIevertraveled.Mostofthetime
wecouldseeovertherimdownintothebasin.Alongheretherim
appearedtowaveingentleswells,heavilytimberedandthickly
rockstrewn,withheadsofcanyonsopeningdowntoourright.Isaw
deertracksandturkeytracks,neitherofwhichoccasionedmeany
thrillsnow.AboutthemiddleoftheafternoonEddbadeusfarewell
andturnedback.Weweresorrytoseehimgo,butasallthecountry
aheadofuswasasunfamiliartohimastousthereseemedtobeno
urgentneedofhim.

Weencounteredalong,steephillupwhichtheteams,andoursaddle
horsescombined,couldnotpullthewagon.Weunpackedit,andeach
of
us,Romerincluded,loadedabundleorboxinfrontofhissaddle,and

251
tookitupthehill.Thentheteamsmanagedthewagon.Thisincident
happenedfourtimesinlessthanasmanymiles.Theteamhorses,
havinghadarestfromhardlabor,hadsoftened,andthissudden
returntostrenuouspullinghadmadetheirshoulderssore.They
either
couldnotorwouldnotpull.Wecoveredlessthantenmilesthatday,
averydiscouragingcircumstance.Wecampedinapinegrovecloseto
therim,asplendidsitethatunderfavorablecircumstanceswould
have
beenenjoyable.AtsunsetR.C.andNielsenandRomersawablack
bear
downundertherim.TheincidentwassowonderfulforRomerthatit
brightenedmyspirits.Abear!Abigbear,Dad!...Isawhim!Hewas
alive!Hestooduplikethiswagginghishead.Oh!Isawhim!

Ournextdaysprogresswasnolessthananightmare.Crawling
along,
unpackingandcarrying,andpackingagain,wetoiledupanddown
the
interminablelengthofthreealmostimpassablemiles.Whennight
overtookusitwasinabadplacetocamp.Nograss,nowater!Acold
galeblewoutofthewest.Itroaredthroughtheforest.Itblew
everythinglooseawayinthedarkness.Italmostblewusawayinour
beds.Thestarsappearedradiantlycoldlywhiteupinthevastblue
windyvaultofthesky.Afullmoonsoaredmajestically.Shadows
crossedtheweirdmoonblanchedforestglades.

Atdaylightwewereallup,cramped,stiff,halffrozen,mostly
silent.Thewaterleftinthebucketswassolidice.Suddenlysome
onediscoveredthatNielsenwasmissing.Thefactfilledmewith
consternationandalarm.Hemighthavewalkedinhissleepand
fallen
overtherim.Whathadbecomeofhim?Allhisoutfitlayscattered
roundinhisbed.InmybewildermentIimaginedmanythings,even
to

252
theextremethathemighthaveleftusinthelurch.ButwhenIgotto
thatsadpassofmindIsuddenlyawakenedasifoutofanevildream.
Myworry,myhurryhadobsessedme.Hightimeindeedwasitfor
meto
meetthissituationasIhadmetotherdifficultones.TothisendI
wentoutawayfromcamp,andforgotmyself,myimagined
possibilities,
andthoughtofmypresentresponsibility,andtheissueathand.That
instantIrealizedmyinjusticetowardNielsen,andreproachedmyself.

UponmyreturntocampNielsenwasthere,warmingonehandover
the
campfireandholdingacupofcoffeeintheother.

Nielsen,yougaveusascare.Pleaseexplain,Isaid.

Yes,sir.LastnightIwasworried.Icouldntsleep.Igotto
thinkingwewerepracticallylost.Someoneoughttofindoutwhat
was
aheadofus.SoIgotupandfollowedtheroad.Brightmoonlight.I
walkedalltherestofthenight.Andthatsall,sir.

IlikedNielsenslooksthen.HeremindedmeofJimEmett,the
Mormongianttowhomdifficultiesandobstacleswerebutspursto
achievement.Suchmencouldnotbedefeated.

Well,whatdidyoufindout?Iinquired.

Changeofconditions,sir,hereplied,asamatetohiscaptain.
OnlyonemoresteephillsofarasIwent.Butwellhavetocut
throughthicketsandlogs.Fromhereontheroadisallgrownover.
Abouttenmileswestweturnofftherimdownaridge.

Thatabouttheturningoffplacewasindeedgoodnews.Ithanked
Nielsen.AndDoyleappearedimmenselyrelieved.Thepackingand

253
carryinghadbeguntotellonus.Pupsingratiatedhimselfintomy
affections.Hefoundoutthathecouldcoaxmeatandbiscuitfromme.
Wehadthreeaxesandahatchet;andthesewedidnotpackinthe
wagon.WhenDoylefinallygottheteamsstartedLeeandNielsenand
R.C.andIwentaheadtocleartheroad.Soonwewerehaltedby
thicketsofpines,someofwhichweresixinchesindiameteratthe
base.Theroadhadceasedtoberocky,andthat,nodoubt,wasthe
reasonpinethicketshadgrownuponit,Thewagonkeptrightatour
heels,andmanytimeshadtowait.Wecutawaythroughthickets,
tore
rottenlogstopieces,threwstumpsaside,andmovedwindfalls.
Brawny
Nielsenseemedtenmeninone!Whataswathhehackedwithhisbig
axe!WhenIrested,whichcircumstancegrewoftenerandoftener,I
had
towatchNielsenwithhismagnificentswingoftheaxe,orwithhis
mightyheaveonalog.Timeandagainheliftedtreetrunksoutofthe
road.Hesweattillhewaswringingwet.Neitherthatdaynorthenext
wouldwehaveevergottenfaralongthatstretchofthicketedand
obstructedroadhaditnotbeenforNielsen.

Atsunsetwefoundourselvesatthesummitofalongslowly
ascending
hill,deeplyforested.Ittookallthehorsestogethertopullthe
wagontothetop.Thuswhenwestarteddownasteepcurve,horses
and
menbothweretired.IwasaheadridingbesideRomer.Nielsenand
R.C.
werenext,andLeehadfalleninbehindthewagon.AsIturnedthe
sharpcurveIsawnotfiftyfeetbelowmeahugelogobstructingthe
road.

Lookout!Stop!Iyelled,lookingback.

ButIwastoolate.Thehorsescouldnotholdbacktheheavily

254
ladenwagon,andtheybrokeintoagallop.IsawDoylesfaceturn
whiteheardhimyell.ThenIspurredmyhorsetotheside.Romer
was
sloworfrightened.Iscreamedathimtogetofftheroad.Myheart
sanksickwithinme!Surelyhewouldberundown.AshisponyRye
jumpedoutofthewaytheshoulderoftheblackhorse,ontheoff
side,struckhimaglancingblow.Thenthebigteamhurdledthelog,
thetonguestruckwithacrash,thewagonstoppedwithalurch,and
Doylewasthrownfromhisseat.

QuickasaflashNielsenwasonthespotbesidetheteam.Thebay
horsewasdown.Theblackhorsewastryingtobreakaway.Nielsen
cut
andpulledthebayfreeoftheharness,andLeecametearingdownto
graspandholdtheblack.

LikeafoolIranaroundtryingtohelpsomehow,butIdidnotknow
whattodo.Ismelledandthensawblood,whichfactconvincedme
ofdisaster.Onlytheblackhorsethathadhurdledthelogmade
anyefforttotearaway.Theotherlayquiet.Whenfinallyitwas
extricatedwefoundthatthehorsehadabadcutinthebreastmade
byasnagonthelog.Wecouldfindnodamagedonetothewagon.
The
harnessNielsenhadcutcouldbemendedquickly.Whatafortunate
outcometowhathadseemedaverygraveaccident!Iwasthankful
indeed.ButnotsoonwouldIforgetsightofRomerinfrontofthat
plungingwagon.

Withthehorsesandaropewehauledthelogtoonesideoftheroad,
andhitchingupagainweproceededonourway.OnceIdropped
back
andaskedDoyleifhewasallright.Fineasafiddle,heshouted.
Thissplaytowhatweteamstershadintheearlydays.Andverily
somehowIcouldseethetruthofthat.Amilefartheronwemade
camp;

255
andallofuswerehungry,weary,andquiet.

Doyleprovedaremarkableexampletousyoungermen.Next
morning
hecrawledoutbeforeanyoneelse,andhiscallwascheery.Iwas
scarcelyabletogetoutofmybed,butIwasashamedtoliethere
aninstantafterIheardDoyle.Possiblymyeyesightwasdulledby
exhaustionwhenitcausedmetoseemyselfasaworn,unshaven,
wrinkledwretch.Romerboydidnothopoutwithhisusualalacrity.
R.C.hadtorolloverinhisbedandgetuponallfours.

Wehadscantrationsforthreemoredays.Itbehoovedustoworkand
wastenotanhour.Allmorning,atthepaceofasnailitseemed,we
choppedandliftedandhauledourwayalongthatoldCrookroad.
Not
sincemytripdowntheSantaRosariverinMexicohadIlaboredso
strenuously.

Atnoonwecametotheturningoffjunction,anoldblazedroadDoyle
hadsomevagueknowledgeof.ItmustleadtoJonesranch,Doyle
keptsaying.Anyway,wevegottotakeit.Northwasourdirection.
Andtooursurprise,andexceedinggladness,theroaddownthis
ridge
provedtobeahighwaycomparedtowhatwehadpassed.Intheopen
forestwehadtofollowitaltogetherbytheblazesonthetrees.But
withalloureyesalertthatwaseasy.Thegradewasdownhill,so
thatwetraveledfast,coveringfourmilesanhour.Occasionallya
logorthickethaltedrapidprogress.Towardtheendoftheafternoon
sheepandcattletrailsjoinedthenowwelldefinedroad,andweknew
wewereapproachingaranch.Iwalked,orratherlimpedthelastmile,
fortheverygoodreasonthatIcouldnotlongerbearthetrotof
myhorse.Theforestgrewmoreopen,withsmallerpines,andfewer
thickets.AtsunsetIcameoutuponthebrowofadeepbarrenlooking
canyon,inthemiddleofwhichsquattedsomeoldruinedlogcabins.
Deserted!Alasformyvisionsofacupofcoldmilk.Forhoursthey

256
hadhauntedme.WhenDoylesawthebrokendowncabinsand
corralshe
yelled:Boys,itsJonesRanch.Ivebeenhere.Wereonlythree
milesfromLongValleyandthemainroad!

Elatedwecertainlywere.Andwerusheddownthesteephilltolook
forwater.Allourdrinkingwaterwasgone,andthehorseshadnot
slakedtheirthirstfortwodays.Separatingwerodeupanddownthe
canyon.R.C.andRomerfoundrunningwater.Thereuponwith
immense
reliefandjoywepitchedcampnearthecabins,forgettingouraches
andpainsinthecertaintyofdeliverance.

Whatacold,dismal,bleak,stony,andlonesomeplace!Weunpacked
onlybedding,andourlittlestoreoffood.Andhuddledaroundthe
campfirewewaiteduponDoylescooking.Theoldpioneertalked
while
heworked.

Jonesranch!IknewJonesintheearlydays.AndIveheardofhim
lately.Thirtyyearsagoherodeaprairieschoonerdownintothis
canyon.Hehadhiswife,afine,stronggirl,andhehadagun,an
axe,somechuck,afewhorsesandcattle,andnotmuchelse.Hebuilt
himthatcabinthereandbegantherealoldpioneeringoftheearly
days.Heraisedcattle.Hefreightedtothesettlementstwiceayear.
Intwentyfiveyearshehadthreestrappingboysandagirljustas
strapping.Andhehadafortuneincattle.Thenhesoldhisstockand
leftthisranch.Hewantedtogivehisfaithfulwifeandhischildren
someofthecomfortsandluxuriesandadvantagesofcivilization.The
warcame.Hissonsdidnotwaitforthedraft.Theyenteredthearmy.
IheardastoryaboutAbeJones,theoldmansfirstboy.Abewasa
quietsortofchap.Whenhegottothearmytrainingcampasergeant
askedAbeifhecouldshoot.Abesaid:Nope,notmuch.Sotheygave
himarifleandtoldhimtoshootattheneartarget.Abelookedat
itsortoffunnylikeandhepickedoutthefarthesttargetatone

257
thousandyards.Andhehitthebullseyetentimesstraightrunning.
Hey!gaspedthesergeant,youlong,lankygaloot!Yousaidyou
couldntshoot.Abesortoflaughed.ReckonIwasthinkinabout
whatDadcalledshootin....Well,AbeandhisbrothersgottoFrance
tothefront.Abewasasharpshooter.HewaskilledatArgonne.Both
hisbrotherswerewounded.Theyreoverthereyet....Imetamannot
longagowhodseenJonesrecently.Andtheoldpioneersaidheand
hiswifewouldliketobebackhome.Andhometothemmeansright
hereJonesRanch!

Doylesstoryaffectedmeprofoundly.Whatathemeforanovel!I
walkedawayfromthecampfireintothedark,lonely,melancholy
Arizonanight.Theruinedcabins,thebrokendowncorrals,thestone
fence,thewashwherewaterranatwetseasonallhadsubtlychanged
forme.Leaninginthedoorwayoftheoneroomcabinthathadbeen
homefortheseJonesesIwasstirredtomydepths.Theirspirits
abidedinthatlonelyhut.AtleastIfeltsomethingtheresomething
strange,great,simple,inevitable,tragicaslifeitself.Yetwhat
couldhavebeenmorebeautiful,moresplendidthanthelifeofJones,
andhiswife,anddaughter,andsons,especiallyAbe?AbeJones!The
namehauntedme.InonecleardiviningflashIsawthelifeofthe
lad.Iyearnedwithtremendouspassionforthepowertotellthe
simplicity,theruggedness,thepathosandthegloryofhisstory.
Themoanofwindinthepinesseemedarequiemfortheboywhohad
prattledandrompedandplayedunderthem,whohadchoppedand
shot
androdeunderthem.Intohismanhoodhadgonesomethingoftheir
strengthandnature.

Wesoughtourbedsearly.Thenightdowninthatdeep,opencanyon
was
thecoldestwehadexperienced.Isleptbutlittle.Atdawnallwas
hoarwhitewithfrost.Itcrackledunderfoot.Theairhadastinging
bite.Yethowsweet,pure,coldtobreathe!

258
Doylescheery:Comeandgetit,waswelcomecalltobreakfast.Lee
andPupsdrovethehorsesintooneoftheoldcorrals.Inanhour,
whilethefrostwasyethardandwhite,wewerereadytostart.Then
Doylesomewhatchilledourhopes:Twentyyearsagotherewasa
bad
roadoutofhere.Maybeonesbeenmadesince.

Butonehadnotbeenmade.Andtheoldroadhadnotbeenusedfor
years.Rightattheoutsetwestruckalong,steep,winding,rocky
road.Wegotstalledattheveryfootofit.Moretoil!Unloadingthe
wagonwepackedonoursaddlesthewholeloadmorethanamileup
this
lastandcrowningobstacle.Thenittookallthehorsestogetherto
pulltheemptywagonuptoalevel.Bythattimesunsethadovertaken
us.Wherehadthehoursgone?Ninehourstogoonemile!Butthere
had
tobeanendtoouragonies.BytwilightwetrotteddownintoLong
Valley,andcrossedthemainroadtocampinagroveweremembered
well.Wepartookofameagresupper,butwewerehappy.Andbed
that
nightonathicklayerofsoftpineneedles,inaspotprotectedfrom
thecoldwind,wasimmenselycomfortable.

Leewokethecrowdnextmorning.Allrustle,heyelled.Thirtyfive
milestoMormonLake.Goodroad.Wellcamptheretonight.

Howstrangethattheeagernesstogethomenowcouldonlybe
compared
tothewilddesireforthewoodsafewweeksback!Wemadeanearly
start.Theteamhorsesknewthatroad.Theyknewtheywerenowon
the
wayhome.Whatdifferencethatmade!Jadedastheywerethey
trotted
alongwithabrisknessneverseenbeforeonthattrip.Itbegantobe
ajobforustokeepupwithLee,whowasonthewagon.Unlessa

259
rider
isaccustomedtohorsebackalmostallofthetimeacontinuoustroton
ahardroadwillsoonstovehimup.Myhorsehadanatrocioustrot.
TimeandagainIhadtofallbehindtoawalkandthenlopeahead
tocatchup.IwelcomedthehillsthatnecessitatedLeewalkingthe
teams.

Atnoonwehaltedinagrassygroveforanhoursrest.Thatseemed
aprecioushour,buttostartagainwaspainful.Inoticedthat
Romerboynolongerrodeoutfarinfront,nordidhechasesquirrels
withPups.Hesagged,twistedandturned,andlolledinhissaddle.
ThereafterItriedtokeepclosetohim.Butthatwasnoteasy,for
hesuspectedmeofseeinghowtiredhewas,andkeptawayfromme.
ThereafterItooktospyinguponhimfromsomedistancebehind.We
trottedandwalked,trottedandwalkedthelongmiles.Arizonamiles
weretwiceaslongasordinaryproperlymeasuredmiles.Aneventof
theafternoonwastomeetsomeMexicansheepherders,drivinga
flock
south.Nielsengotsomefreshmuttonfromthem.TowardsunsetI
caught
Romerhangingoverhissaddle.ThenIrodeuptohim.Son,areyou
tired?Iasked.Oh,Dad,Isuream,butImgoingtorideRyeto
MormonLake.Ibelievedhewouldaccomplishit.Hissaddleslipped,
lettinghimdown.Isawhimfall.WhenhemadenoefforttogetupI
wasfrightened.Ryestoodperfectlystilloverhim.Ileapedoffand
rantothelad.Hehadhithisheadonastone,drawingtheblood,and
appearedtobestunned.Iliftedhim,holdinghimup,whilesomebody
gotsomewater.Webathedhisfaceandwashedofftheblood.
Presently
herevived,andsmiledatme,andstaggeredoutofmyhold.

Helluvanotethatsaddleslipped!hecomplained.Manifestlyhehad
acquiredsomeofJoeIsbelsstronglanguage.Possiblyhemighthave
acquiredsomeotherofthecowboystraits,forheaskedtohavehis
saddlestraightenedandtobeputonhishorse.Ihadmisgivings,but

260
Icouldnotresisthimthen.IliftedhimuponRye.Oncemoreour
cavalcadegotunderway.

Sunset,twilight,nightcameaswetrottedonandon.Wefacedacold
wind.Theforestwasblack,gloomy,fullofshadows.Leegaveusall
wecoulddotokeepupwithhim.Ateightoclock,twohoursafter
dark,wereachedthesouthernendofMormonLake.Agale,coldas
ice,
blewoffthewaterfromthenorth.Halfadozenhugepinetreesstood
ontheonlylevelgroundnearathand.Nielsen,firepronto!I
yelled.Aye,sir,heshouted,inhisdeepvoice.Thenwhatwith
hurryandbustletogetmybeddingandpacks,andtothreshmy
tinglingfingers,andpressmyfrozenears,Iwasselfishlybusyafew
minutesbeforeIthoughtofRomer.

Nielsenhadstartedafire,thatblazedandroaredwithburningpine
needles.Theblazeblewlow,almostonalevelwiththeground,anda
streamofredsparksflewoffintothewoods.Iwasafraidofforest
fire.Butwhatawelcomesightthatgoldenflame!Itlightedupawide
space,showingthehugepines,gloomencircled,andapaleglimmer
of
thelakebeyond.Thefragranceofburningpinegreetedmynostrils.

DraggingmybagsIhurriedtowardthefire.Nielsenwasbuildinga
barricadeofrockstoblocktheflyingsparks.SuddenlyIespied
Romer.Hesatonalogclosetotheblaze.Hispositionstruckmeas
singular,soIdroppedmyburdensandwenttohim.Hehadona
heavy
coatoversweaterandundercoat,whichmadehimresemblealittle
old
man.Hissombrerowassloucheddownsidewise,hisglovedhands
were
foldedacrosshisknees,hisbodysaggedalittletooneside,his
headdrooped.Hewasasleep.IgotaroundsoIcouldseehisface
inthefirelight.Pale,weary,alittlesad,veryyouthfulandyet

261
determined!Abloodybruiseshowedoverhistemple.Hehadsaidhe
wouldrideallthewaytoMormonLakeandhehaddoneit.Never,
never
willthatpicturefadefrommymemory!Dear,brave,wild,littlelad!
Hehadmadeformeamagnificentsuccessofthisfruitlesshunting
trip.Ihopedandprayedthenthatwhenhegrewtomansestate,and
facedthelongridesdownthehardroadsoflife,hewouldmeetthem
andachievethemashehadthewearythirtyfiveArizonamilesfrom
LongValleytoMormonLake.

Muttontastedgoodthatnightaroundourcampfire;andRomeratea
generousportion.Arangerfromthestationneartherevisitedus,and
twoyoungranchers,whotoldusthattheinfluenzaepidemicwas
waning.
Thiswasnewstobethankfulfor.Moreover,Ihiredthetworanchers
to
hurryusbyautotoFlagstaffonthemorrow.SorightthereatMormon
Lakeendedourprivations.

UnderoneofthehugepinesIscrapedupapileofneedles,made
Romersbedinit,heatedablanketandwrappedhiminit.Almosthe
wasasleepwhenhesaid:Someride,DadGoodnight.

Later,besidehim,Ilayawakeawhile,watchingthesparksfly,and
theshadowsflit,feelingthecoldwindonmyface,listeningtothe
crackleofthefireandtheroarofthegale.

IV

EventuallyR.C.andRomerandIarrivedinLosAngelestofindall
wellwithourpeople,whichfactwasindeedsomethingtorejoice
over.
Hardlyhadthis1918tripendedbeforeIbegantoplanforthatof
1919.ButIdidnotrealizehowmuchinearnestIwasuntilIreceived

262
wordthatbothLeeDoyleinFlagstaffandNielseninSanPedrowere
veryillwithinfluenza.Leeallbutdied,andNielsen,afterward,
toldmehewouldratherdiethanhavethefluagain.Tomygreat
relief,however,theyrecovered.

Fromthattimethenitpleasedmetobegintoplanformy1919
hunting
trip.Icanneverdoanythingreasonably.Ialwaysoverdoeverything.
ButwhathappinessIderivefromanticipation!WhenIamnot
working
Iliveindreams,partlyofthepast,butmostlyofthefuture.Aman
shouldliveonlyinthepresent.

IgaveLeeinstructionstogoaboutinhisownwaybuyingteams,
saddlehorses,andwagons.ForChristmasIsenthima.35Remington
rifle.Mr.Haughtgotinstructionstoaddsomenewdogstohispack.I
sentEddalsoa.35Remington,andmadeNielsenpresentsoftwo
guns.
InJanuaryNielsenandIwenttoPicacho,onthelowerColoradoriver,
andthennorthtoDeathValley.SothatIkeptintouchwiththesemen
anddidnotallowtheirenthusiasmtowane.FormyselfandR.C.Ihad
thefunoforderingtentsandwoolenblankets,andeverythingthatwe
didnothaveonour1918trip.Butowingtothewaritwasdifficult
toobtaingoodsofanydescription.Tomakesureofgettinga.30
GovtWinchesterIorderedfromfourdifferentfirms,includingthe
WinchesterCo.Noneofthemhadsucharifleinstock,butallwould
trytofindone.Theupshotofthisdealwasthat,whenaftermonthsI
despairedofgettingany,theyallsentmearifleatthesametime.
SoIfoundmyselfwithfour,allthesamecaliberofcourse,butof
differentstyleandfinish.WhenIsawthemandthoughtofthe
HaughtsIhadtolaugh.Onewasbeautifullyengraved,andinlaid
with
goldthemostelaborate.30GovttheWinchesterpeoplehadever
built.Anotherwasawalnutstocked,shotgunbutted,fancy
checkered

263
takedown.ThisoneIpresentedtoR.C.Thethirdwasaplain
ordinary
riflewithsolidframe.Andthelastwasacarbinemodel,whichIgave
toNielsen.

DuringthesummeratAvalonIusedtotakethesolidframerifle,and
climbthehillstopracticeontargets.AtClementeIslandIusedto
shootattheravens.Ihadagrudgeagainstravensthereforpicking
theeyesoutofnewlybornlambs.Atfivehundredyardsaravenwas
in
dangerfromme.Icouldmakeonejumpatevenathousandyards.
These
.30Govt1906rifleswith150grainbulletarethemostwonderful
shootingarmsIevertried.Ibecameexpertatinanimatetargets.

FromtimetotimeIheardencouragingnewsfromLeeabouthorses.
Edd
wrotemeaboutliontracksinthesnow,andlynxupcedartrees,and
gobblersfourfeethigh,andthattherewassuretobeagoodcrop
ofacorns,andthereforesomebears.Hetoldmeaboutabiggrizzly
cowkillerbeingchasedandshotinChevelonCanyon.Newsabout
hounds,however,wasslowincoming.Dogsweredifficulttofind.
AtlengthHaughtwrotemethathehadsecuredtwo;andinthissame
letterhesaidtheboyswerecuttingtrailsdownundertherim.

Everythingpertainingtomycherishedplansappearedtobeturning
outwell.ButduringthistimeIspentfivemonthsathardworkand
intenseemotionalstrain,writingthelongestnovelIeverattempted;
andIovertaxedmyendurance.BythemiddleofJune,whenI
finished,
Iwastiredout.ThatwouldnothavematteredifIhadnothurtmy
backinanelevenhourfightwithagiantbroadbillswordfish.This
strainkeptmefromgettinginmyusualphysicaltrim.Icouldnot
climbthehills,orexertmyself.Swimminghurtmemorethan
anything.

264
SoIhadtobecarefulandwaituntilmybackslowlygotbetter.By
Septemberithadimproved,butnotenoughtomakemefeelany
thrills
overhorsebackriding.ItseemedtomethatIwouldbecompelledto
goaheadandactuallyworkthepainoutofmyback,anordeal
through
whichIhadpassedbefore,andsurelydreaded.

DuringthesummerIhadpurchasedafamouschestnutsorrelhorse
named
DonCarlos.Hewasmuchindemandamongthemotionpicture
companies
doingwesternplays;andwasreallytoofineandsplendidahorseto
beputtotheriskscommontothemovies.IsawhimfirstatPalm
Springs,downinsouthernCalifornia,wheremybook_DesertGold_
was
beingmadeintoamotionpicture.Donwouldnothavefailedtostrike
anyoneasbeingawonderfulhorse.Hewastremendouslyhighand
rangy
andpowerfulinbuild,yetgracefulwithal,asleek,shinychestnut
redincolor,withfinelegs,broadchest,andamagnificenthead.I
rodehimonlyoncebeforeIboughthim,andthatwasbeforeIhurt
my
back.Hisstridewaswhatonewouldexpectfromsightofhim;histrot
seemedtotearmetopieces;hisspiritwassuchthathewantedto
pranceallthetime.Butinspiteofhisspirithewasapet.And
howhecouldrun!NielsentookDontoFlagstaffbyexpress.And
when
NielsenwrotemehesaidallofFlagstaffcamedowntothestationto
seethefamousDonCarlos.Thecarinwhichhehadtraveledwas
backed
alongsideaplatform.Donrefusedtostepontheboardstheyplaced
fromplatformtocar.Hedidnottrustthem.Donsintelligencehad
beensharpenedbyhisexperiencewiththemovies.Nielsentriedto
lead,tocoax,andtodriveDontostepontheboardwalk.Donwould

265
notgo.Butsuddenlyhesnorted,andjumpedthespaceclear,to
plunge
andpounddownupontheplatform,scatteringthecrowdlikequail.

ThedaybeforemydeparturefromLosAngeleswasalmostasterrible
an
ordealasIanticipatedwouldbemyfirstdaysrideonDonCarlos.
AndthisordealconsistedoflisteningtoRomerspassionateappeals
andimportunitiestolethimgoonthehunt.Myonlydefencewasthat
hemustnotbetakenfromschool.Schoolforsooth!Hewaswayahead
of
hisclass.Ifhegotbehindhecouldmakeitup.Italkedandargued.
Oncehelosthistemper,ararethingwithhim,andsaidhewouldrun
awayfromschool,rideonafreighttraintoFlagstaff,stealahorse
andtrackmetomycamp.Icouldnotsayverymuchinreplytothis
threat,becauseIrememberedthatIhadmadeworsetomyfather,and
carrieditout.IhadtotalksensetoRomer.Oftenwehadspokenof
awonderfulhuntinAfricasomeday,whenhewasoldenough;andI
happeneduponagoodargument.Isaid:Youllmissayearoutof
schoolthen.Itwontbesoverylong.Dontyouthinkyououghtto
stayinschoolfaithfullynow?SointheendIgotawayfromhim,
victorious,thoughnotwhollyhappy.ThetruthwasIwantedhimto
go.

MyJapcookTakahashimetmeinFlagstaff.Hewasaveryshort,very
broad,verymuscularlittlefellowwithabrown,strongface,more
pleasantthanusuallyseeninOrientals.SecretlyIhadmadesurethat
inTakahashiIhaddiscoveredatreasure,butIwascarefultoconceal
thisconvictionfromR.C.,theDoyles,andNielsen.Theyweregladto
seehimwithus,buttheymanifestlydidnotexpectwonders.

Howbriefthespanofayear!HereIwasinFlagstaffagainoutfitting
foranotherhunt.Itseemedincredible.Itrevivedthatoldhaunting
thoughtabouttheshortnessoflife.Butinspiteofthatorperhaps
morebecauseofitthepleasurewasallthekeener.Intruththeonly

266
drawbacktothisstartwastheabsenceofRomer,andmypoor
physical
condition.R.C.appearedtobeinfinefettle.

ButIwasnotwell.InthemorningsIcouldscarcelyarise,andwhen
IdidsoIcouldhardlystraightenmyself.MorethanonceIgrew
doubtfulofmystrengthtoundertakesuchahardtrip.ThisdoubtI
foughtfiercely,forIknewthattherightthingformetodowas
togotostandthepainandhardshiptotoilalonguntilmyold
strengthandelasticityreturned.Whatanopportunitytotryoutmy
favoritetheory!ForIbelievedthatlaborandpainweregoodfor
mankindthatstrenuouslifeintheopenwouldcureanybodilyill.

OnSeptemberfourteenthEddandGeorgedriftedintoFlagstafftojoin
us,andtheirreportofgameandwaterandgrassandacornswasso
favorablethatIwouldhavegoneifIhadbeenunabletorideon
anythingbutawagon.

WegotawayonSeptemberfifteenthattwothirtyoclockwithsuchan
outfitasIhadneverhadinallmymanytripsputtogether.Wehada
stringofsaddlehorsesbesidesthosethemenrode.Theyweresurelya
spiritedbunch;andthatfirstdayitwasindeedajobtokeepthem
with
us.OutofsheerdefiancewithmyselfIstartedonDonCarlos.Hewas
no
trouble,exceptthatittookallmystrengthtoholdhimin.Hetossed
hishead,champedhisbit,andprancedsidewaysalongthestreetsof
Flagstaff,manifestlytoshowoffhisbrandnewblackMexicansaddle,
withsilvertrappingsandtapaderos.Iwassurethathedidnotdothat
toshowmeoff.ButDonlikedtodanceandprancealongbeforea
crowd,
ahabitthathehadacquiredwiththemotionpictures.

LeeandNielsenandGeorgehadtheirdifficultiesdrivingthefree

267
horses.TakahashirodealittlebuckskinNavajomustang.Anevidence
of
howextremelyshorttheJapslegsweremadeitselfplaininthefact
thatstirrupscouldnotbefixedsohecouldreachthemwithhisfeet.
Whenheusedanysupportatallhestuckhisfeetthroughthestraps
abovethestirrups.Howfunnyhissquat,broadfigurelookedina
saddle!Evidentlyhewasnotaccustomedtohorses.WhenIsawthe
mustangrollthewhiteofhiseyesandglancebackatTakahashithenI
knewsomethingwouldhappensoonerorlater.

NineteenmilesonDonCarlosreducedmetoamiserableaching
specimen
ofmanhood.Butwhatmademeendureandgoonandfinishtocamp
wasthe
strangefactthatthelongerIrodethelessmybackpained.Otherparts
ofmyanatomy,however,grewsorerasweprogressed.DonCarlos
pleased
meimmensely,onlyIfearedhewastoomuchhorseforme.A
Mormon
friendofmine,anIndiantrader,lookedDonoverinFlagstaff,and
pronouncedhim:Shoreonegrandhoss!Thismanhadbrokenmany
wild
horses,andhiscomplimentpleasedme.Allthesamethenineteen
miles
onDonhurtmyvanityalmostasmuchasmybody.

Wecampedinacedarpastureoffthemainroad.Thisroadwasanew
one
forustotaketoourhuntinggrounds.Iwastoobungeduptohelp
Nielsenpitchourtent.InfactwhenIsatdownIwasanchored.StillI
couldusemyeyes,andthatmadelifeworthliving.Sunsetwasa
gorgeousspectacle.TheSanFranciscoPeakswereshroudedinpurple
stormclouds,andthewestwasallgoldandsilver,withlowclouds
rimmedinred.Thissunsetendedinagreatflareofdullmagentawith
a

268
backgroundofpurple.

Thateveningwasthetryoutofournewchuckboxandchef.Ihad
suppliedthemenwiththeirownoutfitandsupplies,todowithas
they
liked,anarrangementIfoundtobemostsatisfactory.Takahashiwas
to
takecareofR.C.andme.Inlessthanhalfanhourfromthetimethe
JaplightedafireheservedthebestsupperIeverhadincamp
anywhere.R.C.laudedhimtotheskies.AndIbegantothinkIcould
unburdenmyselfofmyconviction.

Ididnotawakentotheoldzestandthrilloftheopen.Somethingwas
wrongwithme.Thesunset,thecampfire,thedarkclearnightwithits
trainsofstars,thedistantyelpofcoyotestheseseemedlesstome
thanwhatIhadhopedfor.Myfeelingswerelockedroundmy
discomfort
andpain.

Aboutnoonnextdaywerodeoutofthecedarsintotheopendeserta
rolling,levellandcoveredwithfinegrass,andyellowdaisies,Indian
paintbrush,andagoldenfloweringweed.Thisluxurianceattestedto
thecopiousandrecentrains.TheyhadbeenaboontodryArizona.
No
sageshowedorgreasewood,andveryfewrocks.Thesunburnedhot.
I
gazedoutatthedesert,andthecloudpageantinthesky,tryinghard
toforgetmyself,andtoseewhatIknewwasthereforme.Rolling
columnarwhiteandcreamclouds,majesticandbeautiful,formed
storms
offonthehorizon.Sunsetontheopendesertthatafternoonwas
singularlycharacteristicofArizonapurpleandgoldandred,with
long
lanesofbluebetweenthecoloredcloudbanks.

269
WemadecampatMeteorCrater,oneofthemanywondersofthis
wonderland.Itwasahugeholeintheearthoverfivehundredfeet
deep,
saidtohavebeenmadebyameteorburyingitselfthere.Seenfromthe
outsidetheslopewasgradualuptotheedges,whichwerescalloped
and
irregular;ontheinsidethewallswereprecipitous.Ourcampwason
the
windydesert,alongsweepingrangeofgrass,slopingdown,dotted
with
cattle,withbuttesandmountainsinthedistance.Mostofmy
sensations
ofthedaypartookofthenatureofwoe.

SeptemberseventeenthbadefairtobemyworstdayatleastIdidnot
seehowanyothercouldeverbesobad.Glaringhotsunreflected
heat
fromIthebareroaddustandsandandwind!Particularlyhardon
me
werewhattheArizonianscalleddustdevils,whirlwindsofsand.On
and
offIwalkedagoodmanymiles,thelatterofwhichIhobbled.Don
Carlosdidnotknowwhattomakeofthis.Heeyedme,andnosedme,
and
tossedhisheadasiftosayIwasastrangeriderforhim.Likemy
mustang,Night,hewouldnotstandtobemounted.WhenItouched
the
stirrupthatwasasignaltogo.Hehadbeentrainedtoit.Ashewas
nearlyseventeenhandshigh,andasIcouldnotgetmyfootinthe
stirrupfromlevelground,tomounthiminmyconditionseemedlittle
lessthanterrible.IalwaysheldbackoutofsightwhenIattempted
this.ManytimesIfailed.OnceIfellflatandlayamomentinthe
dust.DonCarloslookeddownuponmeinawayIimaginedwas
sympathetic.Atleasthebenthisnobleheadandsmelledatme.I
scrambledtomyfeet,ledhimroundintoalowplace,anddrawinga

270
deep
breath,andnervingmyselftoendurethepainlikeastab,Igotinto
thesaddleagain.

Twothingssustainedmeinthisordeal,whichwasthecrudest
horseback
rideIeverhadfirst,theconvictionthatIcouldcuremyillsby
enduringtheagonyofviolentaction,ofhotsun,ofhardbed;and
secondly,theknowledgethatafteritwasallovertheremembranceof
hardshipandachievementwouldbesingularlysweet.Soithadbeen
in
thecaseofthefivedaysontheoldCrookroadin1918,whenextreme
worryandtremendousexertionhadmadethehourshideous.Soit
hadbeen
withotherarduousandpoignantexperiences.Apoetsaidthatthe
crown
ofsorrowwasinrememberinghappiertimes:Ibelievedthatthere
wasa
greatdealofhappinessinrememberingtimesofstress,ofdespair,of
extremeandhazardouseffort.Anyway,withoutthesetwofeelingsin
my
mindIwouldhavegivenupridingDonCarlosthatday,andhave
abandonedthetrip.

Wecoveredtwentytwomilesbysundown,aratherpoordays
showing;and
campedonthebareflatdesert,usingwaterandwoodwehadpacked
with
us.ThelastthingIremembered,asmyeyesclosedheavily,waswhat
a
blessingitwastorestandtosleep.

Nextdaywesheeredofftothesouthward,headingtowardChevelon
Butte,
ablackcedaredmountain,risingloneoutofthedesert,thirtymiles

271
away.Wecrossedtwostreamsbankfullofwater,acircumstanceI
never
beforesawinArizona.Everywheretoothegrasswashigh.We
climbed
graduallyallday,everybodysunburnedandweary,thehorses
settling
downtosavethemselves;andwecampedhighuponthedesert
plateau,
sixthousandfeetabovesealevel,whereitwaswindy,cool,and
fragrantwithsageandcedar.Exceptthefirstfew,thehoursofthis
dayeachmarkedalittlelesstortureforme;butatthatIfelloff
DonCarloswhenwehalted.AndIwasnotabletodomyshareofthe
camp
work.R.C.wasnotasspryandchipperasIhadseenhim,afactfrom
whichIgatheredinfiniteconsolation.Miserylovescompany.

Astormthreatened.Allthewestwaspurpleunderoncomingpurple
clouds.Atsightofthissomethingstrangeandsubtle,yetfamiliar,
revivedinme.ItmademefeelalittlemoreliketheselfIthoughtI
knew.SoIwatchedthelightningflareandstringalongthehorizon.
Sometimeinthenightthunderawakenedme.Theimminenceofa
severe
stormforcedustorolloutandlookafterthetent.Whatapitchblack
night!Downthroughthemurky,weirdblacknessshotawonderful
zigzag
ropeoflightning,bluewhite,dazzling;anditdisintegrated,leaving
segmentsoffireintheair.Allthisshowedinaswiftflashthenwe
wereabsolutelyblind.Icouldnotseeforseveralmoments.Itraineda
little.Onlytheedgeofthestormtouchedus.Thunderrolledand
boomed
alongthebattlements,deepandrumblinganddetonating.

Nodustorheatnextmorning!Thedesertfloorappearedcleanand
damp,
withfreshgraysageandshiningbunchesofcedar.Weclimbedinto

272
the
highcedars,andthentothepions,andthentothejunipersand
pines.
Climbingsooutofdeserttoforestlandwasagradualand
accumulating
joytome.Whatcontrastinvegetation,inair,incolor!Stillthe
forestconsistedofsmalltrees.Notuntilnextdaydidweclimbfarther
tothedeepening,darkeningforest,andatlasttothesilverspruce.
Thatcamp,thefifthnightout,wasbesidealakeofsurfacewater,
wherewehadourfirstbigcampfire.

SeptembertwentyfirstandtenmilesfromBeaverDamCanyon,
wherea
yearbeforeIhadplannedtomeetHaughtthisdayanddateatnoon!I
couldmakethatappointment,saddlesoreandwearyasIwas,butI
doubtedwecouldgetthewagonsthere.Theforestgroundwassoft.
All
thelittleswaleswerefullofwater.Howpleasant,howwelcome,how
beautifulandlonelythewildforestland!Wemadeadvanceslowly.It
was
afternoonbythetimewereachedtherimroad,andfouroclockwhen
we
haltedattheexactspotwherewehadleftourwagontheyearbefore.

Leedeterminedtodrivethewagonsdownovertherockybenches
into
BeaverDamCanyon;andtothatendheandthemenbegantocut
pines,
draglogs,androllstones.

R.C.andIrodedownthroughtheforest,crossinghalfadozenswift
littlestreamsofamberwater,whereayearbeforeallhadbeendryas
tinder.WefoundHaughtscampinagroveofyellowingaspens.
Haught
wastheretomeetus.Hehadnotchangedanymorethantherugged

273
pine
treeunderwhichayearpastwehadmadeouragreement.Hewore
thesame
blueshirtandtheoldblacksombrero.

HelloHaught,wasmygreeting,asIdismountedandpulledoutmy
watch.Imfourhoursandaquarterlate.Sorry.Icouldhavemadeit,
butdidntwanttoleavethewagons.

Wal,wal,Ishoreamgladtoseeyou,hereplied,withakeenflashin
hishazeleyesandasmileonhiscraggyface.Ireckonedyoudmake
it.Howareyou?Looksortoffagged.

Justaboutallin,Haught,Ireplied,asweshookhands.

ThenCoppleappeared,swaggeringoutoftheaspens.Hewasthe
manImet
inPaysonandwhosokindlyhadmademetakehisrifle.Ihad
engaged
himalsoforthishunt.Abrawnymanhewas,withpowerful
shoulders,
swarthyskinned,anddarkeyed,lookingindeedtheIndianbloodhe
claimed.

Wouldnthaverecognizedyouanywhereselse,hesaid.

Thesekeeneyedoutdoormenataglancesawthehavocworkand
painhad
playedwithme.Theyweresolicitous,andwhenIexplainedmy
condition
theymadelightofthat,andshowedreliefthatIwasnotill.Saw
wood
anrustlearound,saidHaught.AndCopplesaid:Heneedsvenison
an
bearmeat.

274

Theyrodebackwithusuptothewagons.Copplehadbeena
freighter.He
pickedoutawaytodrivedownintothecanyon.Soroughandsteepit
wasthatIdidnotbelievedrivingdownwouldbepossible.Butwith
axes
andpickandshovel,andaheavingofrocks,theyworkedaroadthat
Lee
drovedown.Someplaceswerealmoststraightdown.Buttheground
was
soft,hoofsandwheelssankdeeply,andthoughonewagonlurched
almost
over,andtheheavilyladenchuckwagonalmosthurdledtheteam,
Lee
madethebadplaceswithoutaccident.Twohoursafterourarrival,
such
wasthelaborofmanystronghands,wereachedouroldcamp
ground.One
thingwascertain,however,andthatwaswewouldnevergetbackup
the
waywecamedown.

Exceptforaluxurianceofgrassandferns,andtwobabblingstreams
of
water,ouroldcampgroundhadnotchanged.Isatdownwith
mingled
emotions.Howfamiliarlybeautifulandlonelythiscanyonglade!The
greatpinesandspruceslookeddownuponmewithabenediction.
How
serene,passionless,strongtheyseemed!Itwasonlymenwho
changedin
brieftime.Thelongyearofworryanddreadandtoilandpainhad
passed.Itwasnothing.Onthesoft,fragrant,pinescentedbreeze
came
awhisperingofwelcomefromtheforestland:Youarehereagain.

275
Live
nowinthepresent.

Takahashibeameduponme:Morebetterplacetocamp,hesaid,
grinning.AlreadytheJaphadwonmyadmirationandliking.His
ability
excitedmyinterest,andIwantedtoknowmoreabouthim.Astothis
campsitebeingajoycomparedtotheonesstretchedbackalongthe
road
hewasassuredlyright.Thatnightwedidnomorethaneatandunroll
ourbeds.Butnextdaytheresetinthepleasanttasksofunpacking,
puttinguptentsandflies,cuttingspruceforthick,softbeds,anda
hundredoddjobsdeartoeverycamper.Takahashiwouldnothave
anyone
helphim.Hedugawidespaceforfires,erectedastonewindbreak,
and
madetwoovensoutofbakedmud,thelikeofwhich,andthe
cleverness
ofwhichIhadneverseen.Hewasawhirlwindforwork.

ThematteroffirewoodalwaysconcernedNielsenandmemorethan
any
one.NielsenwasaNorwegian,raisedasaboytouseacrosscutsaw;
and
asformeIwasaconnoisseurincampfiresandaloverofthem.
Hence
wehadbroughtacrosscutsawalongonewithtwohandles.I
remembered
fromtheformeryearahugedeadpinethathadtoweredbleachedand
whiteattheedgeoftheglade.Itstoodtherestill.Thestormsand
blastsofanotherwinterhadnotchangeditintheleast.Itwasfive
feetthickatthebaseandsolid.Nielsenchoppedanotchinitonthe
lowerside,andthenheandEddbegantosawintoitontheother.I
saw
thefirsttremoroftheloftytop.Thensoonitshiveredalltheway

276
down,gaveforthaloudcrack,swayedslowly,andfellmajestically,to
strikewithathunderingcrash.Onlythetopofthispinebrokeinthe
fall,butthereweresplintersandknotsandbranchesenoughtofilla
wagon.Thesewecarrieduptoourcampfire.

Thentheboyssawedoffhalfadozenfourfootsections,whichserved
asfine,solid,flattablesforcomfortaroundcamp.Themethodof
using
acrosscutsawwasfortwomentotakeastandoppositeoneanother,
withthelogbetween.Thehandlesofthesawstoodupright.Eachman
shouldpulleasilyandsteadilytowardhimself,butshouldnotpush
back
norbeardown.Itlookedarhythmic,manlyexercise,andnotarduous.
Butwhatanillusion!NielsenandCoppleweretheonlyonesthatday
who
couldsawwhollythroughthethicklogwithoutresting.Later
Takahashi
turnedouttobeasgood,ifnotbetter,thaneitherofthem,butwehad
that,aswellasmanyotherwonderfulfacts,tolearnabouttheJap.

Comeon,saidR.C.tome,invitingly.Youvebeentalkingaboutthis
crosscutsawgame.Illbetyoufinditharderthanpullingona
swordfish.

Pridegoesbeforeafall!IknewthatinmyconditionIcoulddolittle
withthesaw,butIhadtotry.R.C.wasstillfreshwhenIhadtorest.
Perhapsnooneexceptmyselfrealizedtheweaknessofmyback,but
the
truthwasacoupleofdozenpullsonthatsawalmostmademe
collapse.
WhereforeIgrewfuriouswithmyselfandsworeIwoulddoitordie.
I
sawedtillIfelloverthenIrestedandwentbackatit.Halfanhour
ofthiskindofexercisegavemeastabinmyleftsideinfinitely
sharperthanthepaininmyback.Alsoitmademewringingwet,hot

277
as
fire,andasbreathlessasifIhadrunamileuphill.Thatexperience
determinedmetosticktocrosscutsawingeveryday.NextmorningI
approacheditwithenthusiasm,yetwithmisgivings.Icouldnotkeep
my
breath.PainIcouldanddidbearwithoutlettingon.Buttohaveto
stopwashumiliating.IfItriedtokeepupwiththesturdyHaught
boys,
orwiththebrawnyCoppleorthegiantNielsen,soonIwouldbe
compelledtokeelover.Inthesawingthroughafourfootsectionof
log
Ihadtoresteighttimes.Theyallhadagreatdealoffunoutofit,
andIpretendedtobegoodnatured,buttomewhohadalwaysbeen
so
vigorousandactiveandenduringitwasnotfun.Itwastragic.Butall
wasnotgloomforme.ThisveryafternoonNielsen,thegiant,showed
thatastiffclimboutofthecanyon,atthateightthousandfeet
altitude,completelyflooredhim.YetIaccomplishedthatwith
comparativeease.Icouldclimb,whichseemedproofthatIwas
gaining.
Amanbecomesusedtocertainlaborsandexercises.Ithoughtthe
crosscutsawawonderfultooltotrainaman,butitmustrequiretime.
Itharkedbacktopioneerdayswhenmenweremen.Nielsensaidhe
had
livedamongMexicanboyswhosawedlogsfornineteencentsapiece
and
earnedsevendollarsaday.Copplesaidthreeminuteswasgoodtime
to
sawafourfootlogintwopieces.Somuchforphysicalcondition!As
forfirewood,forwhichourcrosscutsawwasintended,pitchpineand
yellowpineandsprucewereallodorousandinflammablewoods,but
they
didnotmakegoodfirewood.Deadaspenwasgood;deadoakthe
best.It
burnedtoredhotcoalswithlittlesmoke.Asforcampfires,anykind

278
ofdrywoodpleased,smokeornosmoke.InfactIlovedthesmelland
colorofwoodsmoke,inspiteofthefactthatitmademyeyessmart.

ByOctoberfirst,whichwastheopeningdayofthehuntingseason,I
had
laboredatvariousexercisesuntilIfeltfittopackariflethrough
thewoods.R.C.andIwentoutaloneonfoot.Notbyanymeanswas
the
dayauspicious.Thesuntriedtoshowthroughasteelyhaze,making
only
apaleshiftofsunshine.Andtheairwasratherchilly.Enthusiasm,
however,knewnodeterrents.WewalkedamiledownBeaverDam
Canyon,
thenclimbedthewesternslope.AslongasthesunshoneIknewthe
countryfairlywell,orrathermydirection.Weslippedalongthrough
thesilentwoods,satisfiedwitheverything.Presentlythesunbroke
throughtheclouds,andshonefitfully,makingintervalsofshadow,
and
othersofgoldengreenverdure.

Alonganedgeofoneofthegrassyparkswecameacrossfreshdeer
tracks.Severaldeerhadrunoutofthewoodsjustaheadofus,
evidentlyhavingwindedus.Onetrackwasthatofabigbuck.We
trailed
thesetracksacrossthepark,thenmadeadetourinhopesofheading
the
deeroff,butfailed.Ahuge,darkcloudscuddedoutofthewestand
let
downashoweroffinerain.Wekeptdryunderaspreadingspruce.
The
forestthenwasgloomyandcoolwithonlyafaintmoanofwindand
patteringofraindropstobreakthesilence.Thecloudpassedby,the
sunshoneagain,theforestglitteredinitsdressofdiamonds.There
hadbeenbutlittlefrost,sothataspenandmaplethicketshadnotyet
takenontheirclothofgoldandblazeofred.Mostoftheleaveswere

279
stillonthetrees,makingthesethicketsimpossibletoseeinto.We
huntedalongtheedgesofthese,andacrossthewide,openridgefrom
canyontocanyon,andsawnothingbutoldtracks.Blackandwhite
clouds
rolledupandbroughtasquall.Wetooktoanothersprucetentfor
shelter.Afterthissqualltheskybecameobscuredbyafieldofgray
cloudthroughwhichthesunshonedimly.Thismatterworriedme.I
was
awareofmydirectionthen,butifIlostthesunIwouldsoonbein
difficulties.

Graduallyweworkedbackalongtheridgetowardcamp,andheaded
several
ravinesthatranandwideneddownintothebigcanyon.Allatonce
R.C.
heldupawarningfinger.Listen!WithabatementofbreathI
listened,
butheardnothingexceptthemournfulsoughofthepines.ThoughtI
heardawhistle,hesaid.Wewenton,alleyesandears.

R.C.andIflatteredourselvesthattogetherwemaderatheragood
huntingteam.Wewerefairlywellversedinwoodcraftandcouldslip
alongstealthily.IpossessedanIndiansenseofdirectionthathad
neveryetfailedme.Tobesurewehadmuchtolearnaboutdeer
stalking.ButIhadneverhuntedwithanymanwhoseearswereas
quick
asR.C.s.Anaturallykeenhearing,andmanyyearsofstillhunting,
accountedforthisfaculty.Asformyself,theonegiftofwhichIwas
especiallyproudwasmyeyesight.AlmostinvariablyIcouldseegame
in
thewoodsbeforeanyonewhowaswithme.Thishadappliedtoall
my
guidesexceptIndians.AndIbelievedthatfivesummersonthe
Pacific,
searchingthewideexpanseofoceanforswordfishfins,hadmademy

280
eyes
allthekeenerforthewoods.R.C.andIplayedatagameinwhichhe
triedtohearthemovementofsomeforestdenizenbeforeIsawit.
This
funforusdatedbacktoboyhooddays.

SuddenlyR.C.stoppedshort,withhisheadturningtooneside,and
his
bodystiffening.Iheardthatwhistleagain,hesaid.Westood
perfectlymotionlessforalongmoment.Thenfromfaroffintheforest
Iheardahigh,clear,melodious,buglingnote.Howthrilling,how
lonelyasound!

Itsabullelk,Ireplied.Thenwesatdownuponalogandlistened.
R.C.hadheardthatwhistleinColorado,buthadnotrecognizedit.
Just
asthemournfulhowlofawolfisthewildest,mosthauntingsoundof
thewilderness,soisthebugleoftheelkthenoblest,mostmelodious
andthrilling.Withtinglingnervesandstrainedearswelistened.We
heardelkbuglingindifferentdirections,hardtolocate.Onebull
appearedtobelowdown,anotherhighup,anotherworkingaway.
R.C.and
Idecidedtostalkthem.Thelawprohibitedthekillingofelk,butthat
wasnoreasonwhywemightnottrailthem,andhavethesportof
seeing
themintheirnativehaunts.Sowestolesoftlythroughthewoods,
haltingnowandthentolisten,pleasedtonotethateverywhistlewe
heardappearedtobecloser.

Atlast,apparentlyonlyadeepthicketedravineseparatedusfromthe
ridgeuponwhichtheelkwerebugling.Hereourstalkbeganto
become
reallyexciting.Wedidnotmakeanynoisethreadingthatwetthicket,
andweascendedtheoppositeslopeverycautiously.Whatlittlewind
therewasblewfromtheelktowardus,sotheycouldnotscentus.

281
Once
upontheedgeoftheridgewehaltedtolisten.Afteralongtimewe
heardafarawaybugle,thenanotheratleasthalfamiledistant.Had
wemiscalculated?R.C.wasforworkingdowntheridgeandIwasfor
waitingthereafewmoments.Sowesatdownagain.Theforestwas
almost
silentnow.Somewhereasquirrelwasbarking.Thesunpeepedoutof
the
paleclouds,lightedtheglades,rimmedthepinesinbrightness.I
openedmylipstospeaktoR.C.whenIwasrenderedmutebya
piercing
whistle,highpitchedandsweetandmelodiouslyprolonged.Itmade
my
earstingleandmyblooddance.Rightclose,whisperedR.C.Come
on.
Webegantostealthroughtheforest,keepingbehindtreesand
thickets,
peepingout,andmakingnomoresoundthanshadows.Theground
wasdamp,
facilitatingournoiselessstalk.Inthiswaywebecameseparatedby
aboutthirtysteps,butwewalkedonandhaltedinunison.Passing
throughathicketoflittlepineswecameintoanopenforestfullof
glades.KeenlyIpeeredeverywhere,asIslippedfromtreetotree.
Finallywestoopedalongforaspace,andthen,atabugleblastso
closethatitmademejump,Ibegantocrawl.Myobjectivepointwasa
fallenpinethetrunkofwhichappearedhighenoughtoconcealme.
R.C.
keptworkingalittlefarthertotheright.Oncehebeckonedme,butI
kepton.StillIsawhimdropdowntocrawl.Ourstalkwasgetting
towarditsclimax.Mystatewasoneofquiveringintensityofthrill,of
excitement,ofpleasure.ReachingmylogIpeepedoverit.Isawa
cowelkandayearlingcalftrottingacrossagladeaboutahundred
yardsdistant.WantingR.C.toseethemIlookedhisway,and
pointed.
Buthewaspointingalsoandvehementlybeckoningformetojoin

282
him.I
ranonallfoursovertowhereheknelt.Hewhisperedpantingly:
Grandestsighteversaw!Ipeepedout.

Inagladenotseventyfiveyardsawaystoodamagnificentbullelk,
lookingbackoverhisshoulder.Histawnyhindquarters,thenhis
dark
brown,almostblackshaggyshouldersandhead,thenhisenormous
spread
ofantlers,likethetopofadeadcedartheseinturnfascinatedmy
gaze.Howgraceful,stately,lordly!

R.C.steppedoutfrombehindthepineinfullview.Icrawledout,took
akneelingposition,anddrewabeadontheelk.Ihadthefunof
imaginingIcouldhavehithimanywhere.Ididnotreallywanttokill
him,yetwhatwasthemeaningofthesharp,hotgushofmyblood,
the
fierythrillalongmynerves,thefeelingofunsatisfiedwildness?The
bulleyedusforasecond,thenlaidhisforestofantlersbackoverhis
shoulders,andwithsingularlyswift,levelstride,spedlikeatawny
flashintothegreenforest.

R.C.andIbegantochatterlikeboys,andtowalktowardtheglade,
withoutanyparticularobjectinmind,whenmyrovingeyecaught
sight
ofamovingbrownandcheckeredpatchlowdownontheground,
vanishing
behindathicket.IcalledR.C.andran.IgottowhereIcouldsee
beyondthethicket.Animmenseflockofturkeys!Iyelled.AsItriedto
getabeadonarunningturkeyR.C.joinedme.Chaseem!heyelled.
Sowedashedthroughtheforestwiththeturkeysrunningaheadof
us.
Neverdidtheycomeoutclearintheopen.Ihaltedtoshoot,butjust
asIwasabouttopressthetrigger,mymovingtargetvanished.This
happenedagain.Nousetoshootatrandom!Ihadathirdfleeting

283
chance,butabsolutelycouldnotgraspit.Thenthebigflockofturkeys
eludedusinanimpenetrable,brushyravine.

ByGeorge!exclaimedR.C.Canyoubeatthat?Theyrunlike
streaks.I
couldntaim.Thesewildturkeysaregreat.

Iechoedhissentiments.Weprowledaroundforanhourtryingto
locate
thisflockagain,butallinvain.Well,saidR.C.finally,ashe
wipedhisperspiringface,itsgoodtoseesomegameanyhow....
Where
arewe?

Itdevelopedthatourwhereaboutswasamysterytome.Thesunhad
becomecompletelyobliterated,afinerainwasfalling,theforesthad
grownwetanddismal.Wehadgottenturnedaround.Thematterdid
not
lookserious,however,untilwehadwanderedaroundforanother
hour
withoutfindinganythingfamiliar.Thenwerealizedwewerelost.
This
sortofexperiencehadhappenedtoR.C.andmeoften;nevertheless
we
didnotrelishit,especiallythefirstdayout.Asusualonsuch
occasionsR.C.arguedwithmeaboutdirection,andthenleftthe
responsibilitywithme.Ifoundanopenspot,somewhatshelteredon
one
sidefromthemistyrain,andthereIstationedmyselftostudytrees
andskyandcloudsforsomecluetohelpmedecidewhatwasnorth
or
west.AfterawhileIhadthegoodfortunetoseeamomentary
brighteningthroughtheclouds.Ilocatedthesun,andwaspleasedto
discoverthattheinstinctofdirectionIhadbeensubtlypromptedto
take,wouldhavehelpedmeasmuchasthesun.

284

Wefacedeastandwalkedfast,andItooknoteoftreesaheadsothat
weshouldnotgetoffastraightline.Atlastwecametoadeep
canyon.
InthegraymistyrainIcouldnotbesureIrecognizedit.Well,
R.C.,Isaid,thismaybeourcanyon,anditmaynot.Buttomake
sure
wellfollowituptotherim.Thenwecanlocatecamp.R.C.replied
withwearydisdain.Allright,myredskinbrother,leadmetocamp.
As
Lorensays,Imstarvedtodeath.Lorenismythreeyearoldboy,who
bidsfairtobelikehisbrotherRomer.Hehasanenormousappetite
and
beforemealtimeshecomplainsbitterly:Imstarvvedtodeath!How
strangetorememberhimwhileIwaslostintheforest!

Whenwehaddescendedintothecanyonrainwasfallingmore
heavily.We
wereinforit.ButIdeterminedwewouldnotbekeptoutallnight.So
Istruckforwardwithlongstride.

Inhalfanhourwecametowherethecanyonforked.Ideliberateda
moment.NotonefamiliarlandmarkcouldIdescry,fromwhichfactI
decidedwehadbettertaketothelefthandfork.Grassandleaves
appearedalmostaswetasrunningwater.Soonweweresoakedtothe
skin.Aftertwomilesthecanyonnarrowedandthickened,sothat
travelinggrewmoreandmorelaborsome.Itmusthavebeenfour
miles
fromitsmouthtowhereitheadedupneartherim.Onceoutofitwe
foundourselvesonfamiliarground,aboutfivemilesfromcamp.
Exhaustedandwetandnearlyfrozenwereachedcampjustbefore
dark.If
Ihadtakentherighthandforkofthecanyon,whichwasreally
Beaver
DamCanyon,wewouldhavegottenbacktocampinshortorder.R.C.

285
said
totheboys:Well,Docdraggedmeninemilesoutofourway.
Everybody
buttheJapenjoyedmydiscomfiture.Takahashisaidinhisimperfect
English:Gogetonmorebetterdryclothes.Soonhotsupper.Maybe
good
yes!

Itrainedthefollowingday,makingagoodexcusetostayincampand
restbesidethelittletentstove.AndthenextmorningIstartedouton
footwithCopple.WewentdownBeaverDamCanyonintendingto
goupon
theridgewhereR.C.andIhadseentheflockofturkeys.

IconsideredCoppleanadditiontomylonglistofoutdoor
acquaintances
inthewest,andbelievedhimaworthypartnerforNielsen.Copple
was
bornnearOakCreek,sometwentymilessouthofFlagstaff,andwas
onefourthIndian.Hehadagoodeducation.Hiswholelifehadbeen
in
theopen,whichfactIdidnotneedtobetold.Acowboywhenonlya
boy
hehadalsobeensheepherder,miner,freighter,andeverything
Arizonian.Eighteenyearshehadhuntedgameandprospectedfor
goldin
Mexico.HehadbeenasailorandfiremanonthePacific,hehad
served
inthearmyinthePhilippines.Altogetherhishadbeenan
adventurous
life;andasDoylehadbeenamineofmemoriesformesowould
Copplebe

286
amineofinformation.Suchmenhavetaughtmethewonder,the
violence,
thetruthofthewest.

Copplewasinclinedtobeloquaciousatraitthatordinarilywas
rather
distastefultome,butinhiscasewouldbeanadvantage.Onourway
downthecanyonnotonlydidhegivemeanoutlineofthehistoryof
his
life,buthetalkedabouthowhehadforetoldthestormjustended.
The
freshdiggingsofgopherslittlemoundsofdirtthrownuphad
indicatedtheapproachofthestorm;sohadthehootingofowls;
likewisethetwitteringofsnowbirdsatthatseason;alsothefeedingof
blackbirdsnearhorses.Particularlyawindfromthesouthmeant
storm.
Fromthathepassedtoadiscussionofdeer.Duringthelightofthe
moondeerfeedatnight;andinthedaytimetheywilllieinathicket.
Ifahuntercamenearthedeerwouldlowertheirhornsflatand
remain
motionless,unlessalmostriddenover.Inthedarkofthemoondeer
feed
atearlymorning,liedownduringtheday,andfeedagaintoward
sunset,
alwaysalert,trustingtonosemorethaneyesandears.

CopplewassointerestingthatImusthavepassedtheplacewhere
R.C.
andIhadcomedownintothecanyon;atanyrateImissedit,andwe
wentonfarther.Coppleshowedmeoldbearsign,anoldwolftrack,
and
thenfreshturkeytracks.Thelatterremindedmethatwewereout
hunting.Icouldcarryadeadlyrifleinmyhands,yetdreamdreamsof
flowerdeckedElysianfields.Weclimbedawoodedbenchorlowstep
of

287
thecanyonslope,andthoughCoppleandIweresidebysideIsaw
two
turkeysbeforehedid.Theywererunningswiftlyuphill.Itookasnap
shotatthelowerone,butmissed.Mybulletstrucklow,upsetting
him.
Bothofthemdisappeared.

Thenweclimbedtothetopoftheridge,andinscoutingaroundalong
theheavilytimberededgeswecametoaravinedeepenoughtobe
classed
asacanyon.Heretheforestwasdarkandstill,withsunlightshowing
downinraysandgleams.WhilehuntingIalwayslikedtositdown
here
andtheretolistenandwatch.Copplelikedthistoo.Sowesatdown.
Oppositeustherockyedgeoftheotherslopewasabouttwohundred
yards.Welistenedtojaysandsquirrels.Imadenoteofthesignificant
factthatassoonaswebegantohuntCopplebecamesilent.

Presentlymyrovingeyecaughtsightofamovingobject.Itis
movement
thatalwaysattractsmyeyeinthewoods.Isawaplump,woollybeast
walkoutupontheedgeoftheoppositeslopeandstandintheshade.

Copple,isthatasheep?Iwhispered,pointing.Lionno,biglynx,
hereplied.Iaimedandshotjustalittletooswiftly.Judgingbythe
puffofdustmybulletbarelymissedthebigcat.Heleapedfully
fifteenfeet.Copplefired,hittingrightunderhisnoseashealighted.
Thatwhirledhimback.Hebouncedlikearubberball.Mysecondshot
wentoverhim,andCoppleshitbetweenhislegs.Thenwithanother
prodigiousboundhedisappearedinathicket.Bygolly!wemissed
him,
declaredCopple.Butyoumusthaveshavedhimthatfirsttime.
Biggest
lynxIeversaw.

288
Wecrossedthecanyonandhuntedforhim,butwithoutsuccess.Then
we
climbedanopengrassyforestslope,uptoalevelridge,andcrossed
thattoseedownintoabeautifulvalley,withstatelyisolatedpines,
andpatchesofaspens,andfloorofluxuriantgrass.Aravineleddown
intothislongparkandthemouthofitheldathicketofsmallpines.
JustaswegothalfwayoutIsawbobbingblackobjectsabovethehigh
grass.Ipeeredsharply.Theseobjectswereturkeyheads.Igotashot
beforeCopplesawthem.Therewasabouncing,awhirring,a
thumpingandthenturkeysappearedtoberunningeveryway.

Copplefired.Turkeynumberone!hecalledout.Imissedabig
gobbler
ontherun.Coppleshotagain.Turkeynumbertwo!hecalledout.I
couldnotseewhathehaddone,butofcourseIknewhehaddone
execution.Itrousedmyireaswellasadesperateambition.Turkeys
wererunninguphilleverywhere.Iaimedatthisone,thenatthat.
AgainIfired.Anothermiss!Howthatgobblerran!Hemightjustas
well
haveflown.Everyturkeycontrivedtogetatreeorbushbetweenhim
and
me,justatthecriticalinstant.IndespairItriedtoholdonthelast
one,gotabeadonitthroughmypeepsight,moveditwithhimaswe
moved,andholdingtight,Ifired.Withagreatflopandscatteringof
bronzefeathershewentdown.Iranuptheslopeandsecuredhim,a
finegobblerofaboutfifteenpoundsweight.

UponmyreturntoCoppleIfoundhehadcollectedhistwoturkeys,
both
shotintheneckinthesameplace.Hesaid:Ifyouhittheminthe
bodyyouspoilthemforcooking.Iusedtohitallmineinthehead.Let
megiveyouahunch.Alwayspickoutaturkeyrunningstraightaway
from
youorstraighttowardyou.Nevercrossways.Youcanthitthem
running

289
totheside.

Thenhebluntlycomplimentedmeuponmyeyesight.Thatatleast
was
consolationformypoorshooting.Werestedthere,andafterawhile
heardaturkeycluck.Copplehadnoturkeycaller,butheclucked
anyhow.Weheardanswers.Theflockevidentlywastryingtoget
together
again,andsomeofthemwereapproachingus.Copplecontinuedto
call.
ThenIappreciatedhowfascinatingR.C.hadfoundthiscallinggame.
Copplegotanswersfromallaround,growingcloser.Butpresentlythe
answersceased.Theyreontome,hewhisperedanddidnotcall
again.
Atthatmomentayounggobblerranswiftlydowntheslopeand
stoppedto
peeraround,hislongneckstretching.Itwasnotaverylongshot,and
I,scorningtodolessthanCopple,triedtoemulatehim,andaimedat
theneckofthegobbler.AllIgot,however,wasafewfeathers.Likea
grouseheflewacrosstheopeningandwasgone.Welingeredtherea
while,hopingtoseeorhearmoreoftheflock,butdidneither.Copple
triedtoteachmehowtotelltheageofturkeysfromtheirfeet,a
lessonIdidnotthinkIwouldassimilateinonehuntingseason.He
tied
theirlegstogetherandhungthemoverhisshoulder,anetweightof
aboutfiftypounds.

Allthewayupthatvalleywesawelktracks,andoncefromoverthe
ridgeIheardabugle.Onourreturntowardcampwefolloweda
rather
meanderingcourse,overridgeanddowndale,andthroughgrassy
parks
andstatelyforests,andalongtheslowlycoloringmapleaspen
thickets.
Coppleclaimedtoheardeerrunning,butIdidnot.Manytired

290
footsteps
IdraggedalongbeforewefinallyreachedBeaverDamCanyon.How
welcome
thesightofcamp!R.C.hadriddenmileswithEdd,andhadseenone
deer
thattheysaidwasstillenjoyinghisfreedominthewoods.Takahashi
hailedsightoftheturkeyswith:Thatfine!Thatfine!Nicefatones!

ButtiredasIwasthatnightIstillhadenthusiasmenoughtovisit
Haughtscamp,andrenewacquaintancewiththehounds.Haught
hadnot
beenabletosecuremorethantwonewhounds,andthesenamed
Rockand
Buckwerestillunknownquantities.

OldDanrememberedme,andmyheartwarmedtotheoldgladiator.
Hewas
averybig,largebonedhound,graywithageandwrinkledandlame,
and
blearyeyed.Danwastoooldtobeputontrails,oratleasttobemade
chasebear.Helovedacampfire,andwouldalmostsitintheflames.
Thisfact,andthewayhewouldbegforamorseltoeat,hadendeared
himtome.

OldTomwassomewhatsmallerandleanerthanDan,yetresembled
him
enoughtodeceiveusattimes.Tomwasgray,too,andhadcrinkly
ears,
andmanyotherhonorablebattlescars.Tomwasnotquitesofriendly
as
Dan;infacthehadmoredignity.Stillneitherhoundwasever
demonstrativeexceptuponsightofhismaster.Haughttoldmethatif
DanandTomsawhimshootatadeertheywouldchaseittillthey
dropped;accordinglyhenevershotatanythingexceptbearandlion
when

291
hehadthesehoundswithhim.

Suewasthebesthoundinthepack,asshestillhad,inspiteofyears
ofservice,agooddealofspeedandfightleftinher.Shewasaslim,
darkbrownhoundwithfineandverylongears.Rock,oneofthenew
houndsfromKentucky,waswhiteandblack,andhadremarkably
large,
clearandbeautifuleyes,almosthumaninexpression.Icouldnot
accountforthefactthatIsuspectedRockwasadeerchaser.Buck,the
otherhoundfromKentucky,wasnolongeryoung;hehadastump
tail;his
colorwasalittleyellowwithdarkspots,andhehadahangdoghead
anddistrustfuleye.ImadecertainthatBuckhadneverhadany
friends,
forhedidnotunderstandkindness.Norhadheeverhadenoughto
eat.
Hestayedawayfromtherestofthepackandgrowledfiercelywhena
pup
camenearhim.Itriedtomakefriendswithhim,butfoundthatI
would
nothaveaneasytask.

KaiserBillwasoneofthepups,blackincolor,along,lean,
hungrylookingdog,andcrazy.Hehadnotgrownanyinayear,
eitherin
bodyorintelligence.Irememberedhowhewouldyelpjusttohear
himselfandrunanykindofatrailhowhewouldbethefirsttoquit
andcomeback.Andifanyonefiredagunnearhimhewouldrunlike
a
scareddeer.

TobefairtoKaiserBilltheotherpupswerenotmuchbetter.Trailer
andBigFootwereyoungstill,andaboutalltheycoulddowastorun
andhowl.

292
If,however,theygotoffrightonabeartrail,andnoothertrail
crossedittheywouldstick,andinfactleadthepacktillthebear
gotaway.OnceBigFootcamewhimperingintocampwithporcupine
quills
inhisnose.Ofallthewhippedandfunnypups!

BobbywasthedogIlikedbest.Hewasacurlyblackhalfshepherd,
smallinsize;andhehadasharp,intelligentface,withthebrightest
hazeleyes.Hismannerofwagginghistailseemedmostcomicalyet
convincing.Bobbywaggedonlythenetherendandthatmost
emphatically.
Hewouldstanduptome,holdingouthisforepaws,andbeg.Whatan
appealingbeggarhewas!BobbysvaluetoHaughtwasnot
inconsiderable.HewastheonlydogHaughteverhadthatwould
herdthe
pigs.OnabearhuntBobbylosthisshepherdwaysandhiskindly
disposition,andyelpedfiercely,andhungonatrailaslongasanyof
thepack.Hehadnofearofabear,forwhichreasonHaughtdidnot
like
torunhim.

Alltoldthenwehadarathernondescriptandpoorpackofhounds;
and
thefactdiscouragedme.Iwantedtohuntthebadcinnamonsandthe
grizzlysheepkillers,withwhichthisrimrockcountrywasinfested.I
hadnothingagainsttheacorneatingbrownorblackbears.Andwith
this
packofhoundsIdoubtedthatwecouldholdoneofthevicious
fighting
species.Buttherewasnownothingtodobuttry.Noonecouldtell.
We
mightkillabiggrizzly.Andthefactthatthechanceswereagainstus
perhapsmadeformoredeterminedeffort.Iregretted,however,thatI
hadnotsecuredapackoftrainedhoundssomewhere.

293
Frostwaslatethisfall.Theacornshadhardlyripened,theleaveshad
scarcelycolored;andreallygoodbearhuntingseemedweeksoff.A
storm
andthenacoldsnapwouldhelpmatterswonderfully,andforthese
we
hoped.Indeedtheweatherhadnotsettled;hardlyadayhadbeenfree
of
clouds.Butdespiteconditionswedecidedtostartinbearhunting
every
otherday,feelingthatatleastwecouldtrainthepack,andgetthem
andourselvesinbettershapeforafavorabletimewhenitarrived.

AccordinglynextdaywesalliedforthforHortonThicket,andIwent
downwithEddandGeorge.Itwasafineday,sunnyandwindyat
intervals.Thenewtrailtheboyshadmadewasboggy.Fromabove
Horton
Thicketlookeddark,green,verdant,withscarcelyanytouchof
autumn
colors;frombelow,onceinit,allseemedadarkergreen,cooland
damp.Waterlayinalllowplaces.Thecreekroaredbankfullofclear
water.

Thenewtrailledupanddownoverdarkredrichearth,through
thicketsofjackpineandmaple,andthenacrosslongslopesof
manzanitaandjuniper,mescalandoak.Juniperswerenotfruitfulthis
yearastheywerelast,onlyafewhavingclustersoflavendercolored
berries.Themanzanitabrushappearedexceptionallybeautifulwith
its
vividcontrastsofcrimsonandgreenleaves,orangecoloredberries,
and
smooth,shinybarkofachocolatered.Themescalconsistedofround
patchesofcactuswithspearshapedleaves,lowontheground,witha
longdeadstalkstandingorbrokendown.Thisstalkgrowsfresh
every
spring,whenitisladenwithbeautifulyellowblossoms.Thehoney

294
from
theflowersofmescalandmesquiteisthebesttobeobtainedinthis
countryofinnumerablebees.

Presentlythehoundsopeneduponsomekindofatrailandthey
worked
onitaroundundertheledgestowardthenextcanyon,calledSee
Canyon.
Afterawhilethecountrygrewsoroughthatfastridingwas
impossible;
thethicketstoreandclutchedatusuntiltheyfinallystoppedthe
horses.Wegotoff.Eddclimbedtoaridgetop.Packgoneway
round,
hecalled.Illwalk.Takemyhorseback.IdecidedtoletGeorgetake
myhorsealso,andIhurriedtocatchupwithEdd.

FollowingthatlongleggedArizonianonfootwasalmostasstrenuous
as
keepinghiminsightonhorseback.Imanagedit.Weclimbedsteep
slopes
andthefartherweclimbedthethickergrewthebrush.Oftenwe
would
halttolistenforhounds,atwhichwelcomeintervalsIendeavoredto
catchmybreath.Wekeptthehoundsinhearing,whichfactincitedus
to
renewedendeavors.Atlengthwegotintoabeltofliveoakand
scrubpinebrush,almostasdifficulttopenetrateasmanzanita,and
herewehadtobendandcrawl.Bearanddeertracksledeverywhere.
Smallstonesandlargestoneshadbeenliftedanddisplacedbybears
searchingforgrubs.Theseslopesweredry;wefoundnowateratthe
headsofravines,yettheredearthwasrichinbearded,tuftedgrass,
yellowdaisiesandpurpleasters,andawanblueflower.Weclimbed
and
climbed,untilmybackbegantogivemetrouble.Reckonwebitoff
a

295
bighunk,remarkedEddonce,andIthoughthereferredtothe
endless
steepandbrushyslopes.Byandbyethehoundscamebacktousone
by
one,allfootsoreandweary.Manifestlythebearhadoutrunthem.Our
bestprospectthenwastoclimbontotherimandstrikeacrossthe
foresttocamp.

InoticedthattiredasIwasIhadlesstroubletokeepupwithEdd.
Hisbootsworeveryslipperyongrassandpineneedles,sothathe
might
havebeentryingtoclimbonice.Ihadnailsinmybootsandthey
caughthold.HotterandwetterIgrewuntilIhadaburningsensation
allover.Mylegsandarmsached;therifleweighedaton;myfeet
seemedtotakeholdofthegroundandstick.Wecouldnotgostraight
up
owingtothenatureofthatjumbleofbrokencliffsandmattedscrub
forests.Forhourswetoiledonward,upward,downward,andthen
upward.
OnlythroughsuchexperiencecouldIhavegainedanadequate
knowledge
oftheroughnessandvastnessofthisrimrockcountry.

Atlastwearrivedatthebaseofthegrayleaningcrags,andthere,on
alongslideofweatheredrockthehoundsjumpedabear.Isawthe
dust
heraised,ashepiledintothethicketbelowtheslide.Whatawild
clamorfromthehounds!Wegotoutontherockyslopewherewe
couldsee
andkeptsharpeyesroving,butthebearwentstraightdownhill.
Amazingindeedwasitthewaythehoundsdrewawayfromus.Ina
few
momentstheywereatthefootoftheslopes,tearingbackoverthe
coursewehadbeensomanyhoursincoming.Thenwesetouttoget
on

296
therim,soastofollowalongit,andkeeptrackofthechase.Edd
distancedmeontherocks.Ihadtostopoften.MybreastlaboredandI
couldscarcelybreathe.Isweatsofreelythatmyriflestockwaswet.
Myhardestbattlewasinfightingatendencytoutterwearinessand
disgust.Myoldpoignantfeelingsaboutmyphysicalcondition
returned
tovexme.AsamatteroffactIhadalreadythatveryday
accomplished
aclimbnotatalleasyfortheArizonian,andIshouldhavebeen
happy.
ButIhadnotbeenusedtoalameback.WhenIreachedtherimIfell
there,andlaythereafewmoments,untilIcouldgetup.ThenI
followedalongafterEddwhoseyellstothehoundsIheard,and
overtook
himuponthepointofapromontory.Farbelowthehoundswere
baying.
Theyrechasinhimallright,declaredEdd,grimly.Hesheadinfor
lowcountry.IthinkSuestoppedhimonce.Buttherestofthepackare
behind.

Ihadneverbeenonthepointofthispromontory.Grandindeedwas
the
panorama.Undermeyawnedadarkgreen,smokycanyoned,
ripplingbasin
oftimberandredrocksleadingawaytothemountainrangesofthe
Four
PeaksandMazatzals.Westward,towardtheyellowingsunsetstood
out
longescarpmentsformiles,andlongslopinglinesofblackridges,
leadingdowntothebasinwherethereseemedtobearippleofthe
earth,avastupsetregionofcanyonandridge,wildandlonelyand
dark.

Ididnotgettoseethesunsetfromthatwonderfulpoint,amatterI
regretted.Wewerefarfromcamp,andEddwasnotsureofabeeline

297
duringdaylight,letaloneafterdark.Deepintheforestthesunset
goldandredburnedongrassandleaf.Theaspenstookmostofthe
color.Swiftflyingwispsofcloudturnedpink,andlowalongthe
westernhorizonoftheforestthelightseemedgoldenandblue.

Iwasalmostexhausted,andbythetimewereachedcamp,justat
dark,I
waswhollyexhausted.Myvoicehadsunktoawhisper,afactthat
occasionedR.C.someconcernuntilIcouldexplain.Undoubtedlythis
was
thehardestdaysworkIhaddonesincemylionhuntingwithBuffalo
Jones.ItdidnotsurprisemethatnextdayIhadtoforgetmycrosscut
sawexercise.

Latethatafternoonthehoundscamestragglingintocamp,lameand
starved.Suewasthelastonein,arrivingatsuppertime.

Anotherdayfoundmestillsore,butabletoride,andR.C.andIwent
offintothewoodsinsearchofanykindofadventure.Thisdaywas
cloudyandthreatening,withspellsofsunshine.Wesawtwobullelk,
a
cowandacalf.Thebullsappearedremarkablyagileforsoheavyan
animal.Neitherofthese,however,wereofsuchmagnificent
proportions
astheoneR.C.andIhadstalkedthefirstdayout.Afewminuteslater
wescaredoutthreemorecowsandthreeyearlings.Idismountedjust
for
fun,andsightedmyrifleatfourofthem.Nextwecametoacanyon
wherebeaverhadcutaspentrees.Theseanimalsmusthavechisellike
teeth.Theyleftchippingssomewhatsimilartothosecutbyanaxe.
Aspenbarkwastheirwinterfood.Inthisparticularspotwecouldnot
findadamorslide.WhenwerodedownintoTurkeyCanyon,
however,we
foundaplacewherebeavershaddammedthebrook.Manyaspens
werefresh

298
cut,oneatleasttwofeetthick,andallthesmallbrancheshadbeen
cutoffanddraggedtothewater,whereIcouldfindnofurthertrace
of
them.Thegrasswasmatteddown,andonthebarebitsofground
showed
beavertracks.

Gameappearedtobescarce.Haughthadtoldusthatdeer,turkeyand
bearhadallgonetofeedonthemast(fallenacorns);andifwecould
locatethemastwewouldfindthegame.Hesaidhehadonceseena
herd
ofseveralhundreddeermigratingfromonesectionofcountryto
another.Apparentlythiswastofindnewfeedinggrounds.

WhilewewererestingunderaspruceIespiedawhitebreasted,
blueheaded,graybackedlittlebirdatworkonapinetree.Hewalked
headfirstdownthebark,peckinghereandthere.Isawamothora
wingedinsectflyoffthetree,andthenanother.ThenIsawseveral
moreflyaway.Thebirdwasfeedingonwingedinsectsthatlivedin
the
bark.Someofthemsaworheardhimcomingandescaped,butmany
ofthem
hecaught.Hewentaboutthisdeathdealingbusinesswithabriskand
cheerfulmanner.Nodoubtnaturehaddevelopedhimtohelpprotect
the
treesfrombugsandwormsandbeetles.

Laterthatday,inanopengrassycanyon,wecameuponquitealarge
bird,nearthesizeofapigeon,whichIthoughtappearedtobea
speciesofjayormagpie.Thisbirdhadgrayandblackcolors,around
head,andastoutbill.AtfirstIthoughtitwascrippled,asithopped
andflutteredaboutinthegrass.Igotdowntocatchit.ThenI
discovereditwasonlytame.Icouldapproachtowithinafootof
reachingit.Onceitpercheduponalowsnag,andpeepedatmewith
littlebrightdarkeyes,veryfriendly,asifhelikedmycompany.Isat

299
therewithinafewfeetofhimforquiteawhile.Weresumedourride.
Crossingafreshbucktrackcausedustodismount,andtieourhorses.
Butthatbuckwastoowaryforus.Wereturnedtocampasusual,
empty
handedasfarasgamewasconcerned.

IforgottosayanythingtoHaughtorDoyleabouttheblackandgray
birdthathadsointerestedme.Quiteacoincidencewasitthentosee
anothersuchbirdandthatonerightincamp.Heappearedtobeas
tame
astheother.Heflewandhoppedaroundcampinsuchafriendly
manner
thatIplacedapieceofmeatinaconspicuousplaceforhim.Notlong
washeinfindingit.Healightedonit,andpeckedandpulledata
greatrate.DoyleclaimeditwasaClarkcrow,namedafteroneofthe
LewisandClarkexpedition.Itsararebird,saidDoyle.Firstone
Iveseeninthirtyyears.AsDoylespentmostofhistimeintheopen
thisstatementseemedratherremarkable.

Wehadfrostontwomornings,temperatureaslowastwentysix
degrees,
andthenanotherchangeindicativeofunsettledweather.Itrained,
and
sleeted,andthensnowed,butthegroundwastoowettoholdthe
snow.

Thewildernessbeganallatonce,asifbymagic,totakeonautumn
colors.Thentheforestbecameanenchantedregionofwhiteaspens,
goldengreenaspens,purplespruces,darkgreenpines,maplesablaze
of
vermilion,cerise,scarlet,magenta,roseandslopesofdullredsumac.
ThesewerethebeginningofIndiansummerdays,themelancholy
days,
withtheircolorandsilenceandbeautyandfragranceandmystery.

300
Huntingthenbecamequiteadreamforme,asifitcalledbacktome
dim
mysticdaysinthewoodsofsomepastweirdworld.Oneafternoon
Copple,
R.C.,andIwentasfarastheeastsideofGentryCanyonandworked
down.Copplefoundfreshdeerandturkeysign.Wetiedourhorses,
and
slippedbackagainstthewind.R.C.tookonesideofaridge,with
Coppleandmeontheother,andweworkeddowntowardwherewe
hadseen
thesign.Afterhalfanhourofslow,stealthyglidethroughtheforest
wesatdownattheedgeofapark,expectingR.C.tocomealongsoon.
Thewhiteaspenswereallbare,andoakleaveswererustlingdown.
The
windlulledawhile,thensoftlyroaredinthepines.Allatonceboth
ofusheardastickcrack,andlightstepsofawalkingdeeronleaves.
Copplewhispered:Getreadytoshoot.Wewaited,keenandtight,
expectingtoseeadeerwalkoutintotheopen.Butnonecame.
Leaving
ourstandweslippedintothewoods,carefulnottomaketheslightest
sound.Suchcareful,slowstepswerecertainlynotaccountableforthe
rapidbeatofmyheart.Somethinggraymovedamongthegreenand
yellow
leaves.Ihalted,andheldCoppleback.ThennottwentypacesawayI
descriedwhatIthoughtwasafawn.Itglidedtowarduswithoutthe
slightestsound.Suddenly,halfemergingfromsomemaplesaplings,it
sawusandseemedstrickentostone.Nottenstepsfromme!Softgray
hue,slendergracefulneckandbody,sleeksmallheadwithlongears,
andgreatdarkdistendedeyes,wilderthananywildeyesIhadever
beheld.Isawitquiverallover.Iwasquiveringtoo,butwithemotion.
Copplewhispered:Yearlinbuck.Shoot!

Hiswhisper,lowasitwas,madethedeerleaplikeagrayflash.Also
itbrokethespellforme.Yearoldbuck!Iexclaimed,quiteloud.
Thoughthewasafawn.ButIcouldnthaveshot

301

Acrashofbrushinterruptedme.Thumpofhoofs,crackofbranches
then
abigbuckdeerboundedonwardintothethicket.Igotonesnapshot
at
hisfleetingblurredimageandmissedhim.Weranahead,buttono
avail.

Fourpointbuck,saidCopple.Hemusthavebeenstandinbehind
that
brush.

Didyouseehishorns?Igasped,incredulously.

Sure.Buthewasrunninsome.Letsgodownthisslopewherehe
jumped....Nowwillyoulookatthat!Hereswherehestartedafter
you
shot.

Agentleslope,ratheropen,leddowntothethicketwherethebuck
had
vanished.Wemeasuredthefirstofhisdownhilljumps,andit
amounted
toeighteenofmyrathershortsteps.Whatamagnificentleap!It
remindedmeofthestoryofHartleapWell.

AsweretracedourstepsR.C.metus,reportingthathehadheardthe
buckrunning,butcouldnotseehim.Wescoutedaroundtogetherfor
an
hour,thenR.C.andCopplestartedoffonawidedetour,leavingmeat
a
standinthehopetheymightdrivesometurkeysmyway.Isatona
log
untilalmostsunset.Allthepinetipsturnedgoldandpatchesofgold
brightenedtheground.Jaysweresqualling,graysquirrelswere

302
barking,
redsquirrelswerechattering,snowbirdsweretwittering,pinecones
weredropping,leaveswererustling.Buttherewerenoturkeys,andI
didnotmissthem.R.C.andCopplereturnedtotellmetherewere
signs
ofturkeysanddeerallovertheridge.Wellrideoverhereearly
tomorrow,saidCopple,anIllbetmygunwepacksomemeatto
camp.

Buttheunsettledweatherclaimedthenextdayandthenext,giving
us
spellsofrainandsleet,andperiodsofsunshinedeceptiveintheir
promise.Camp,however,withourbigcampfire,andlittletent
stoves,
andTakahashi,wouldhavebeendelightfulinalmostanyweather.
Takahashiwasinsulted,theboystoldme,becauseIsaidhewasborn
to
beacook.ItseemedtheJaplookeddownuponthisculinaryjob.
Cookthatwomanjoob!hesaid,contemptuously.

AsIbecamebetteracquaintedwithTakahashiIlearnedtothinkmore
of
theJapanese.IstudiedTakahashiveryearnestlyandIgrewtolike
him.
TheOrientalsaremysticsandhardtounderstand.Butanyonecould
see
thatherewasaJapanesewhowasarealman.Ineversawhimidle.
He
resentedbeingtoldwhattodo,andaftermyfirstoffenseinthis
regardInevergavehimanotherorder.Hewasawonderfulcook.It
pleasedhisvanitytoseehowgoodanappetiteIalwayshad.WhenI
wouldhailhim:George,whatyougottoeat?hewouldgrinand
reply:
Aw,turkee!ThenIwouldletoutayell,forIneverinmylifetasted
anythingsogoodastheroastwildturkeyTakahashiservedus.Orhe

303
wouldsay:Pancakesappledumplingsricepuddings.Noonebut
the
Japsknowhowtocookrice.Iaskedhimhowhecookedriceoveran
open
fireandhesaid:Iknowhowhotwhendone.Takahashimusthave
possessedanuncannyknowledgeoftheeffectsofheat.Howswift,
clean,
efficientandsavinghewas!Heneverwastedanything.Inthesedays
of
AmericanprodigalityafrugalcooklikeTakahashiwasarevelation.
Seldomaretherealproducersoffoodeverwasters.Takahashis
ambition
wastobearancherinCalifornia.Ilearnedmanythingsabouthim.In
summerhewenttotheImperialValleywherehepickedandpacked
cantaloupes.Hecouldstandtheintenseheat.Hewasanexpert.He
commandedthehighestwage.Thenhewasaraisinpicker,whichfor
him
wasanotherart.Hehadaccumulatedalittlefortuneandknewhowto
savehismoney.HewouldhavebeenamillionaireinJapan,buthe
intendedtoliveintheUnitedStates.

Takahashihadthatbestoftraitsgenerosity.Wheneverhemadepie
or
cakeordoughnutshealwayssavedhisshareformetohaveformy
lunch
nextday.Nousetotrytobreakhimofthiskindlyhabit!Hewaskeen
too,andheldinparticulardisfavoranyonewhopickedoutthebest
portionsofturkeyormeat.Nolikethat,hewouldsay;andIheartily
agreedwithhim.Lifeintheopenbroughtoutthelittlemiserable
traitsofhumannature,ofwhichnoonewasabsolutelyfree.

IadmiredTakahashiscooking,Iadmiredtheenormouspileof
firewood
healwayshadchopped,Iadmiredhisgenerosity;butmostofallI
liked

304
hischeerfulnessandgoodhumor.Hegrewtobeajoytome.Wehad
some
popcornwhichwesometimespoppedoverthecampfire.Hewas
fondofit
andhesaid:Youeatalltimemuchpopcornjustsolongyoukeep
mouthgoingallsamelikehorseyouhappy.Weweretroubleda
good
dealbyskunks.Nowsomeskunkswerenotbadneighbors,butothers
were
disgustinganddangerous.Thehognosedskunk,accordingto
westerners,
veryoftenhadhydrophobiaandwouldbiteasleeper.Iknewof
several
mendyingofrabiesfromthisbite.Copplesaidhehadbeenawakened
twiceatnightbyskunksbitingthenosesofhiscompanionsincamp.
Copplehadtochoketheskunksoff.Oneofthesemendied.Wewere
reallyafraidofthem.Doylesaidonehadvisitedhiminhistentandhe
hadbeenforcedtocoverhisheaduntilhenearlysmothered.Now
Takahashisleptinthetentwiththestoreofsupplies.Onenighta
skunkawakenedhim.InreportingthistometheJapsaid:Seeskunk
all
blackandwhiteattentdoor.Iflashlight.Skunknofraid.Henorun.
Heactfunnythenjustwalkoff.

AfterthatexperienceTakahashisetaboxtrapforskunks.One
morning
hesaidwithahugegrin:Icatchskunk.Wantyoutakepictureforme
sendmywifeSadayo.

SoIgotmycamera,andbeingcarefultotakeasafeposition,asdid
alltheboys,ItoldTakahashiIwasreadytophotographhimandhis
skunk.Hegotapolethatwastooshorttosuitme,andheliftedupthe
boxtrap.Afurrywhiteandblackcatappeared,withremarkably
bushy
tail.Whatabeautifullittleanimaltobearsuchopprobrium!Allsame

305
likecat,saidTakahashi.Kitteekittee.Itappearedthatkittywas
notintheleastafraid.Onthecontraryshesurveyedtheformidable
Jap
withhispole,andherotherenemiesinacalm,dignifiedmanner.
Then
sheturnedaway.HereItriedtophotographherandTakahashi
together.
WhenshestartedofftheJapfollowedandpokedherwiththepole.
Take
notherpicture.Butkittysuddenlywhirled,withfurandtailerect,a
mostsurprisingandbraveandassuredfront,thenranatTakahashi.I
yelled:RunGeorge!Pellmelleverybodyfledfromthatbeautiful
littlebeast.Wewerearrantcowards.ButTakahashigraspedup
another
andlongerpole,andchargedbackatkitty.Thistimehechasedher
out
ofcamp.Whenhereturnedhisfacewasastudy:Nashtything!She
make
awfulstink!Shenofraidatall.NexttimeIkillhersure!

TheheadofGentryCanyonwasaboutfivemilesfromcamp,andwe
reached
itthefollowingmorningwhilethefrostwasstillwhiteandsparkling.
Wetiedourhorses.Copplesaid:Thisisadeerday.Illshowyoua
bucksure.Letssticktogetheranwalkeasy.

Sowemadesuretoworkagainstthewind,which,however,wasso
light
asalmosttobeimperceptible,andstolealongthedarkravine,taking
halfadozenstepsorsoatatime.Howstilltheforest!Whenitwas
likethisIalwaysfeltasifIhaddiscoveredsomethingnew.Thebig
treesloomedstatelyandcalm,stretchingaruggednetworkof
branches
overus.Fortunatelynosaucysquirrelsorsquallingjaysappearedto
be

306
abroadtowarngameofourapproach.Notonlyatang,butathrill,
seemedtocomepervasivelyonthecoolair.Allthecolorsofautumn
wereattheirheight,andgorgeousplotsofmaplethicketandsumac
burnedagainstthebrownandgreen.Weslippedalong,eachofus
strung
tobethefirsttohearorseesomelivingcreatureofthewild.R.C.,
asmighthavebeenexpected,halteduswithasoftlywhispered:
Listen.ButneitherCopplenorIheardwhatR.C.heard,and
presently
wemovedonasbefore.PresentlyagainR.C.madeuspause,witha
like
result.Somehowtheforestseemedunusuallywild.Itprovokeda
tinglingexpectation.Thepinecoveredslopeaheadofus,thethicketed
ridgetoourleft,thedark,wideningravinetoourright,allseemedto
harborlistening,watching,softfooteddenizensofthewild.Atlength
wereachedalevelbench,beautifullyforested,wheretheridgeran
down
inpointstowherethejunctionofseveralravinesformedtheheadof
GentryCanyon.

Howstealthilywestoleon!HereCopplesaidwasaplacefordeerto
graze.Butthegrassplots,goldenwithsunlightandwhitewithfrost
andblackbarredbyshadowsofpines,showednogame.

Copplesatdownonalog,andItookaseatbesidehimtotheleft.R.C.
stoodjusttomyleft.AsIlaidmyrifleovermykneesandopenedmy
lipstowhisperIwassuddenlystruckmute.IsawR.C.stiffen,then
crouchalittle.Heleanedforwardhiseyeshadthelookofafalcon.
ThenIdistinctlyheardthesoftcrackofhoofsonstoneandbreakingof
tinytwigs.QuickasIwhirledmyheadIstillcaughtoutofthetailof
myeyethejerkofR.C.ashethrewuphisrifle.IlookedIstrained
myeyesIflashedthemalongtherimoftheravinewhereR.C.had
been
gazing.Agrayformseemedtomoveintothefieldofmyvision.That
instantitleaped,andR.C.srifleshockedmewithitsburstingcrack.

307
Iseemedstunned,sonearwasthereport.ButIsawthegrayform
pitch
headlongandIheardasolidthump.

Buck,anhesyourmeat!calledCopple,lowandsharp.Lookfor
anotherone.

Nootherdeerappeared.R.C.rantowardthespotwherethegray
formhad
plungedinaheap,andCoppleandIfollowed.Itwasfarenoughto
make
mepantforbreath.WefoundR.C.besideafinethreepointbuckthat
hadbeenshotsquareinthebackoftheheadbetweenandbelowthe
roots
ofitsantlers.

Neverknewwhatstruckhim!exclaimedCopple,andhelaidholdof
the
deerandhauleditoutoftheedgeofthethicket.Fineanfat.
Venisonforcamp,boys.Oneofyougoafterthehorsesantheother
helpmehanghimup.

VI

IhadbeenridingeastwardofBeaverDamCanyonwithHaught,and
wehad
partedupontheridge,hetogodownaravineleadingtohiscamp,
and
ItolingerawhilelongerupthereintheIndiansummerwoods,so
full
ofgoldandsilenceandfragranceonthatOctoberafternoon.

Thetrailgraduallydrewmeonwardanddownward,andatlengthI
came

308
outintoanarrowopenparklinedbysprucetrees.SuddenlyDon
Carlos
shotuphisears.Ihadnotriddenhimfordaysandheappearedmore
thanusuallyspirited.Hesaworheardsomething.Iheldhimin,and
afteramomentIdismountedanddrewmyrifle.Acrashinginbrush
somewherenearathandexcitedme.PeeringallaroundItriedto
locate
causeforthesound.Againmyearcaughtaviolentswishingofbrush
accompaniedbyasnappingoftwigs.ThistimeIcockedmyrifle.Don
Carlossnorted.Afteranothercirclingswiftgazeitdawneduponme
that
thesoundcamefromoverhead.

Ilookedintothistreeandthat,suddenlytohavemygazearrestedby
a
threshingcommotionintheverytopofaloftyspruce.Isawadark
form
movingagainstabackgroundofbluesky.InstantlyIthoughtitmust
be
alynxandwasabouttoraisemyriflewhenavoiceasfromthevery
cloudsutterlyastoundedme.Igaspedinmyastonishment.WasI
dreaming?Butviolentthreshingsandwhacksfromthetreetop
absolutely
assuredmethatIwasneitherdreamingnoroutofmyhead.Iget
youwhee!shoutedthevoice.Therewasamanupintheswaying
topof
thatspruceandhewasnootherthanTakahashi.ForamomentI
couldnot
findmyvoice.ThenIshouted:

Heyupthere,George!Whatintheworldareyoudoing?Icamenear
shootingyou.

Awhullo!Icomedownnow,repliedTakahashi.

309
Ihadseenbothlynxandlionclimbdownoutofatree,butnothing
exceptasquirrelcouldeverhavebeatenTakahashi.Thesprucewas
fully
onehundredandfiftyfeethigh;andunlessImadeagreatmistakethe
Japdescendedintwominutes.Hegrinnedfromeartoear.

Inoseeyounohear,hesaid.Youtakemeforbigcat?

Yes,George,andImighthaveshotyou.Whatwereyoudoingup
there?

Takahashibrushedtheneedlesandbarkfromhisclothes.Igoout
with
littlegunyougiveme.Ihunt,noseesquirrel.Gooutnogunsee
squirrel.IchasehimuptreeIclimbhighawfulhigh.Nogood.
Squirrelhetooquick.Herunrightovermegetaway.

Takahashilaughedwithme.Ibelievedhewaslaughingatwhathe
consideredthesurprisingagilityofthesquirrel,whileIwaslaughing
athim.HerewasanothermanifestationoftheJapssimplicityand
capacity.IfallJapanesewerelikeTakahashitheywereawonderful
people.Menaremenbecausetheydothings.ThePersianswere
trainedto
sweatfreelyatleastonceeverydayoftheirlives.Itseemedtome
thatifamandidnotsweateveryday,whichwastosaylaborhard
he
verysurelywasdegeneratingphysically.Icouldlearnagreatdeal
from
GeorgeTakahashi.RightthereItoldhimthatmyfatherhadbeena
famoussquirrelhunterinhisday.Hehadsuchremarkableeyesight
that
hecouldespytheearofasquirrelprojectingabovethehighestlimb
ofatallwhiteoak.Andhewassuchasplendidshotthathehadoften
barkedsquirrels,aswasanotedpracticeoftheoldpioneer.Ihadto
explaintoTakahashithatthispracticeconsistedofshootingabullet

310
tohitthebarkrightunderthesquirrel,andtheconcussionwouldso
stunitthatitwouldfallasifdead.

Awmygoodnishyourdaddymorebettershotthanyou!ejaculated
Takahashi.

Yesindeedhewas,Ireplied,reflectively,asinaflashthe
longpastboyhooddaysrecurredinmemory.Huntingdaysplaying
daysof
boyhoodwerethebestoflife.Itseemedtomethatoneofthefew
reasonsIstillhadforclingingtohuntingwasthiskeen,thrilling
harkbacktoearlydays.Booksfirstthengunsthenfishingpolesso
ranthelistofmaterialpossessionsdeartomyheartasalad.

Thatnightwasmoonlight,cold,starry,withasilversheenonthe
spectralspruces.Duringthenighttherecameachange;itrainedfirst
adrizzle,thenaheavydownpour,andatfivethirtyaroarofhailon
thetent.Thismusicdidnotlastlong.Atsevenoclockthe
thermometer
registeredthirtyfourdegrees,buttherewasnofrost.Themorning
was
somewhatcloudyorfoggy,withpromiseofclearing.

WetookthehoundsovertoSeeCanyon,andwhileEddandNielsen
went
downwiththem,therestofuswaitedabovefordevelopments.
Scarcely
hadtheymorethantimeenoughtoreachthegorgebelowwhenthe
pack
burstintofullchorus.Haughtledthewaythenaroundtheroughrim
for
bettervantagepoints.IwasmountedononeofthehorsesLeehad
gotten
formeafine,spiritedanimalnamedStockings.Probablyhehadbeen
a

311
cavalryhorse.Hewasabaywithwhitefeet,wellbuiltandpowerful,
thoughnotovermediumsize.Onesplendidfeatureabouthimwas
thata
saddleappearedtofithimsosnuglyitneverslipped.Andanother
feature,infinitelythemostattractivetome,washiseasygait.His
trotandlopeweresocomfortableandswinging,likethemotionofa
rockingchair,thatIcouldridehimalldaywithpleasure.Butwhenit
cametochasingafterhoundsandbearsalongtherimStockingsgave
me
trouble.Tooeager,toospirited,hewouldnotgivemetimetochoose
thedirection.Hejumpedditchesandgullies,plungedintobad
jumbles
orrock,triedtohurdlelogstoohighforhim,carriedmeunderlow
branchesandthroughdensethickets,andingeneralshowedhewas
exceedinglywillingtochaseafterthepack,butignorantofrough
foresttravel.OwingtothisIfellbehind,andgotoutofhearingof
bothhoundsandmen,andeventuallyfoundmyselflostsomewhere
onthe
westsideofSeeCanyon.TogetoutIhadtoturnmybacktothesun,
travelwesttillIcametotherimaboveHortonThicket,andfromthere
returntocamp,arrivingratherlateintheafternoon.

Allthemenhadreturned,andallthehoundsexceptBuck.Iwas
rather
surprisedanddisturbedtofindtheHaughtsinahighstateof
dudgeon.
Eddlookedpaleandangry.UponquestioningNielsenIlearnedthat
the
houndshadatoncestruckafreshbeartrackinSeeCanyon.Nielsen
and
Eddhadnotfollowedfarbeforetheyheardahoundyelpinginpain.
They
foundBuckcaughtinabeartrap.Therestofthehoundscameupona
littlebearcub,caughtinanothertrap,andkilledit.Nielsensaidit
hadevidentlybeenaprisonerforsomedays,beingverypoorand

312
emaciated.Freshtracksofthemotherbearwereproofthatshehad
been
aroundtryingtosaveitorministertoit.ThereweretrappersinSee
Canyon;andbetweenbearhuntersandtrappersmanifestlytherewas
no
lovelost.Eddsaidtheyhadasmuchrighttotrapaswehadtohunt,
butthatwasnotthequestion.Therehadbeenopportunitytotellthe
HaughtsaboutthebignumberfourbeartrapssetinSeeCanyon.But
they
didnottellit.Eddhadbroughtthedeadcubbacktoourcamp.Itwas
a
prettylittlebearcub,aboutsixmonthsold,withasoftsilkybrown
coat.Noonehadtolookatittwicetoseehowithadsuffered.

Thismatteroftrappingwildanimalsissingularlyhatefultome.Bad
enoughisittostalkdeertoshootthemfortheirmeat,butatleast
thisisagamewherethedeerhavealltheadvantage.Badindeedit
may
betochasebearwithhounds,butthatisahard,dangerousmethodof
huntingwhichgivesitsomesemblanceoffairness.Mostofmybear
hunts
provedtomethatIranmorerisksthanthebears.Tosettraps,
however,tohidebigironspringed,spiketoothedtrapstocatchand
clutchwildanimalsalive,andholdthemtilltheydiedorstarvedor
gnawedofftheirfeet,oruntilthetrapperchosetocomewithhisgun
orclubtoendthemiserablebusinesswhatindeedshallIcallthat?
Cruelbasecowardly!

Itcannotbedefendedonmoralgrounds.Butvastmoneyedinterests
are
atstake.OneofthegreatestofAmericanfortuneswasbuiltuponthe
brutal,mercilesstrappingofwildanimalsfortheirfurs.Andinthis
fallof1919thepricesoffox,marten,beaver,raccoon,skunk,lynx,
muskrat,mink,otter,werehigherbydoublethantheyhadeverbeen.
Trappersweregoingtoreaparichharvest.Well,everybodymust

313
makea
living;butisthistrappingbusinesshonest,isitmanly?Tomy
knowledgetrappersarehardened.Marketfishermenarehardened,
too,but
thepubliceatfish.Theydonoteatfurs.Nowincoldclimatesand
seasonsfursarevaluabletoprotectpeoplewhomustbattlewith
winter
windsandsleetandice;andagainsttheirusebysuchIdaresaythere
isnojustificationforcensure.Butthevastnumberoffursgotodeck
thepersonsofvainwomen.Iappreciatethebeautifulcontrastoffair
skinagainstabackgroundofsablefur,orsilverfox,orrich,black,
velvetyseal.Butbeautifulwomenwouldbejustasbeautiful,justas
warmlyclothedinwoolinsteadoffur.Andinfinitelybetterwomen!
Not
longagoImetayoungwomaninoneofNewYorksfashionable
hotels,
andIremarkedabouttheexquisiteeveningcoatoffurshewore.She
saidshelovedfurs.Shecertainlywashandsome,andsheappearedto
be
refined,cultured,agirlofhighclass.AndIsaiditwasapitywomen
didnotknoworcarewherefurscamefrom.Sheseemedsurprised.
ThenI
toldherabouttheironjawed,spiketoothedtrapshiddenbythe
springs
orontherunwaysofgameaboutthefoxorbeaverormartenseeking
its
food,trainingitsyoungtofareforthemselvesaboutthesudden
terribleclutchofthetrap,andthenthefranticfear,theinstinctive
fury,theviolentstruggleaboutthefootgnawedoffbythebeastthat
wastoofiercetodieacaptiveaboutthehoursofagony,thehorrible
thirstthehorribledaystilldeath.AndIconcluded:Allbecause
womenareluxuriousandvain!Sheshudderedunderneaththe
beautiful
coatoffurs,andseemedinsulted.

314
UponinquiryIlearnedfromNielsenthatBuckwascoming
somewhereback
alongthetrailhoppingalongonthreelegs.Irodeondowntomy
camp,
andprocuringabottleofiodineIwalkedbackinthehopeofdoing
Buck
agoodturn.Duringmyabsencehehadreachedcamp,andwaslying
under
anaspen,apartfromtheotherhounds.Bucklookedmeanerand
uglierand
moredistrustfulthanever.Evidentlythisinjurytohislegwasatrick
playeduponhimbyhisarchenemyman.Istoodbesidehim,ashe
licked
theswollen,bloodyleg,andtalkedtohim,askindlyasIknewhow.
And
finallyIsatdownbesidehim.Thetrapteethhadcaughthisright
front
legjustabovethefirstjoint,andfromthepositionoftheteethmarks
andthewayhemovedhislegIhadhopesthatthebonewasnot
broken.
Apparentlythebigteethhadgonethroughoneachsideofthebone.
When
ItriedgentlytotouchtheswollenlegBuckgrowledominously.He
would
havebittenme.Ipattedhisheadwithonehand,andwatchingmy
chance,
atlengthwiththeotherIpourediodineovertheopencuts.ThenI
kept
pattinghimandholdinghisheaduntiltheiodinehadbecome
absorbed.
Perhapsitwasonlymyfancy,butitseemedthattheuglygleaminhis
distrustfuleyeshadbecomesheepish,asifhewasashamedof
something
hedidnotunderstand.Thatlookmorethaneverdeterminedmeto
tryto

315
findsomewaytohisaffections.

Acampfirecouncilthatnightresultedinplanstotakeapackoutfit,
andridewestalongtherimtoaplaceHaughtcalledDudeCreek.
Reckon
wellshoresmokeupsomebarsalongDude,saidHaught.Never
wasin
therebutIjumpedbars.Gooddeeranturkeycountry,too.

Nextdaywerestedthehounds,andgotthingsintopackingshape
with
theintentionofstartingearlythefollowingmorning.Butitrainedon
andoff;andthedayafterthatwecouldnotfindHaughtsburros,and
notuntilthefourthmorningcouldwestart.ItturnedoutthatBuck
did
nothaveabrokenlegandhadrecoveredsurprisinglyfromtheinjury
he
hadreceived.Aloofasheheldhimselfitappearedcertainhedidnot
wanttobeleftbehind.

WerodealldayalongtheoldCrookroadwheretheyearbeforewe
had
encounteredsomanyobstacles.Irememberedmostoftheroad,but
how
strangeitseemedtome,andwhataproofofmymentalconditionon
that
memorabletrip,thatIdidnotrememberall.Usuallyforestordesert
groundIhavetraveledoverIneverforget.Thisride,inthemiddleof
October,whenallthecolorsofautumnviedwiththesunlighttomake
theforestaregionofgoldenenchantment,wasoneofparticular
delight
tome.Ihadbeguntoworkandwearoutthepaininmyback.Every
night
Ihadsufferedalittlelessandsleptalittlebetter,andevery
morningIhadlessandlessofastruggletogetupandstraightenout.

316
ManyagroanhadIsmothered.Butnow,whenIgotwarmedupfrom
riding
orwalkingorsawingwood,thepainleftmealtogetherandIforgotit.
Ihadgivenmyselfheroictreatment,butmyrewardwasinsight.My
theorythattheoutdoorlifewouldcurealmostanyillofbodyormind
seemedtohaveearnedanotherproofaddedtothelonglist.

Atsunsetwehadcoveredaboutsixteenmilesofroughroad,andhad
arrivedatapointwhereweweretoturnawayfromtherim,down
intoa
canyonnamedBarberShopCanyon,whereweweretocamp.

BeforeturningasideIrodeouttotherimforalookdownatthe
sectionofcountryweweretohunt.Whatapleasuretorecognizethe
pointfromwhichRomerboyhadseenhisfirstwildbear!Itwasa
wonderfulsectionofrimrockcountry.Iappearedtobeattheextreme
pointofavasttenleaguepromontory,risinghighoverthebasin,
where
therimwascutintocanyonsasthickasteethofasaw.Theywere
notchedandvshaped.Craggyrussetlichenedcliffs,yellowand
goldstainedrocks,oldcrumblingruinsofpinnaclescrownedbypine
thickets,ravinesandgulliesandcanyons,chokedwithtreesand
brush
allgreengold,purplered,scarletfiretheseindeedweretheheights
anddepths,thewild,lonelyruggedness,thecolorandbeautyof
Arizonaland.Therewerelong,steepslopesofoakthickets,wherethe
bearslived,longgrayslidesofweatheredrocks,longslantingridges
ofpine,descendingformilesoutanddownintothegreenbasin,yet
alwaysseemingtostandhighabovethatrollingwilderness.Thesun
stoodcrossedbythincloudsagoldenblazeinagoldenskysinking
to
meetaraggedhorizonlineofpurple.

HereagainwasIconfrontedwiththemajestyandbeautyoftheearth,
andwithanotherandmorestrikingeffectofthisvasttiltedrimof

317
mesa.Icouldseemanymilestowestandeast.Thisrimwasahuge
wall
ofsplinteredrock,acolossalcliff,toweringsohighabovetheblack
basinbelowthatravinesandcanyonsresembledripplesordimples,
darkerlinesofshade.Andontheothersidefromitsveryedge,where
thepinefringebegan,itslopedgraduallytothenorth,withheadsof
canyonsopeningalmostatthecrest.Isawoneravinebeginitsstart
notfiftyfeetfromtherim.

BarberShopCanyonhadfiveheads,allrunningdownlikethefingers
of
ahand,toformthemaincanyon,whichwasdeep,narrow,forested
by
giantpines.Around,leveldell,wateredbyamurmuringbrook,deep
downamongthemanyslopes,wasourcampground,andneverhadI
seen
onemoredesirable.Thewindsoughedintheloftypinetops,butnota
breezereacheddowntothisshelterednook.Withsunsetgoldonthe
high
slopesourcampwasshroudedintwilightshadows.R.C.andI
stretcheda
canvasflyoveraropefromtreetotree,stakeddowntheends,andleft
thesidesopen.Underthisweunrolledourbeds.

Nightfellquicklydowninthatsequesteredpit,andindeeditwas
black
night.Ablazingcampfireenhancedthecirclinggloom,andinvested
the
greatbrownpineswithsomeweirdaspect.Theboysputupanold
tent
forthehounds.PoorBuckwasdrivenoutofthisshelterbyhiscanine
rivals.Itookpityuponhim,andtiedhimatthefootofmybed.When
R.C.andIcrawledintoourblanketswediscoveredBucksnugly
settled
betweenourbeds,andwonderfultohear,hewhined.Well,Buck,old

318
dog,youkeeptheskunksaway,saidR.C.AndBuckemittedsome
kindof
aqueersound,apparentlymeanttoassureusthathewouldkeep
evena
lionaway.FrommybedIcouldseethetipsoftheblackpinescloseto
thewhitestars.BeforeIdroppedtosleepthenightgrewsilent,except
forthefaintmoanofwindandlowmurmurofbrook.

Wecrawledoutearly,keentorunfromthecoldwashinthebrookto
the
hotcampfire.GeorgeandEddhadgonedownthecanyonafterthe
horses,
whichhadbeenhobbledandturnedloose.Leehadremainedwithhis
fatheratBeaverDamcamp.ForbreakfastTakahashihadvenison,
biscuits,griddlecakeswithmaplesyrup,andhotcocoa.Icertainlydid
notbeginonanemptystomachwhatauguredtobeahardday.Buck
hung
aroundmethismorning,andIsubduedmygenerousimpulseslong
enough
tobeconvincedthathehadundergoneasubtlechange.ThenIfed
him.
OldDanandOldTomwerewitnessesofthisprocedure,whichthey
regardedwithextremedisfavor.Andthepupstriedtopickafight
with
Buck.

Byeightoclockwewereridingupthecoloredslopes,throughthestill
forest,withthesweet,fragrant,frostyairnippingatournoses.A
milefromcampwereachedanotchintherimthatleddowntoDude
Creek,andhereEddandNielsendescendedwiththehounds.Therest
of
usrodeouttoapointtheretoawaitdevelopments.Thesunhad
already
floodedthebasinwithgoldenlight;theeastslopesofcanyonandrim
weredarkinshade.Isatonamatofpineneedlesneartherim,and

319
looked,andcarednotforpassageoftime.

ButIwasnotpermittedtobelefttosensorialdreams.Rightunderus
thehoundsopenedup,fillingthecanyonfullofbellowingechoes.
They
workeddown.Slopesbelowusnarrowedtopromontoriesandalong
thesewe
keptourgaze.SuddenlyHaughtgaveajump,androse,thumpingto
his
horse.Sawabar,heyelled.Justgotaglimpseofhimcrossinan
openridge.Comeon.WemountedandchasedHaughtoverthe
roughest
kindofrockyground,toovertakehimatthenextpointontherim.
Ridealong,youfellars,hesaid,aneachpickoutastand.Keep
aheadofthedogsanlooksharp.

ThenitwasinshortorderthatIfoundmyselfalone,Copple,R.C.and
GeorgeHaughthavinggotaheadofme.Ikepttotherim.Thehounds
couldbeheardplainlyandalsotheencouragingyellsofNielsenand
Edd.Apparentlythechasewasworkingalongunderme,inthe
directionI
wasgoing.Thebayingofthepack,thescentofpine,theringof
ironshodhoofsonstone,thesenseofwild,broken,vastcountry,the
goldenvoidbeneathandthepurplerangedhorizonallthesebrought
vividlyandthrillinglytomindmyhuntingdayswithBuffaloJones
along
thenorthrimoftheGrandCanyon.Ifeltapang,bothforthepast,and
formyfriendandteacher,thislastoftheoldplainsmenwhohaddied
recently.Inhislastlettertome,writtenwithadeathstrickenhand,
hehadtalkedofanotherhunt,ofmoreadventure,ofhischerished
hope
topossessanislandinthenorthPacific,theretopropagatewild
animalshehaddreamedagainthedreamthatcouldnevercometrue.
I
wasridingwithmyfacetothekeen,sweetwindsofthewild,andhe

320
was
gone.Nojoyinlifeiseverperfect.Iwonderedifanygriefwasever
whollyhopeless.

Icameatlengthtoasectionofrimwherehugetimberedstepsreached
outanddown.DismountingItiedStockings,anddescendedtothe
craggy
pointsbelow,whereIclamberedhereandthere,looking,listening.No
longercouldIlocatethehounds;nowthebayingsoundedclearand
sharp,closeathand,andthenhollowandfaint,andfaraway.I
crawled
undergnarledcedars,overjumblesofrock,aroundleaningcrags,
until
IgotouttoapointwhereIhadsuchcommandofslopesandcapes,
where
thescenewassograndthatIwasboththrilledandawed.Somewhere
belowmetomyleftwerethehoundsstillbaying.Thelowerreaches
of
therimconsistedofridgesandgorges,benchesandravines,canyons
and
promontoriesacountrysowildandbrokenthatitseemedimpossible
for
houndstotravelit,letalonemen.Aboveme,tomyright,stuckouta
yellowpointofrim,andbeyondthatIknewtherejuttedoutanother
point,andmoreandmorepointsontowardthewest.Georgewas
yelling
fromoneofthem,andIthoughtIheardafaintreplyfromR.C.or
Copple.Ibelievedforthepresenttheyweretoofarwestwardalong
the
rim,andsoIdevotedmyattentiontotheslopesundermetowardmy
left.Butoncemygazewanderedaround,andsuddenlyIespieda
shiny
blackobjectmovingalongabareslope,farbelow.Abear!Sothrilled
andexcitedwasIthatIdidnotwonderwhythisbearwalkedalongso
leisurelyandcalmly.Assuredlyhehadnotevenheardthehounds.I

321
begantoshoot,andinfiverapidshotsIspattereddustalloverhim.
NotuntilIhadtwomoreshots,oneofwhichstruckclose,didhe
begin
torun.Thenhegotoutofmysight.Iyelledandyelledtothoseahead
ofmealongtherim.Somebodyanswered,andnextsomebodybegan
to
shoot.HowIclimbedandcrawledandscuffledtogetbacktomy
horse!
Stockingsansweredtothespiritoftheoccasion.Likeadeerheran
aroundtheroughrim,andIhadtoperformwiththeagilityofa
contortionisttoavoiddeadsnagsoftreesandgreenbranches.WhenI
gottothepointfromwhichIhadcalculatedGeorgehaddonehis
shootingIfoundnoone.Myyellsbroughtnoanswers.ButIhearda
horsecrackingtherocksbehindme.Thenupfromfarbelowrangthe
sharpspangsofriflesinquickaction.NielsenandEddwereshooting.
I
countedsevenshots.Howtheechoesrangfromwalltowall,todie
hollowandfaintinthedeepcanyons!

Igallopedaheadtothenextpoint,findingonlythetracksofR.C.s
boots.EverywhereIpeeredforthebearIhadsighted,andatintervals
Iyelled.ForalltheanswerIgotImightaswellhavebeenaloneon
thewindyrimoftheworld.Myvoiceseemedlostinimmensity.Then
I
rodewestward,thenbackeastward,andtoandfrountilboth
Stockings
andIwereweary.AtlastIgaveup,andtookagood,longrestunder
a
pineontherim.Notashot,notayell,notasoundbutwindandthe
squallofajaydisruptedthepeaceofthathour.Iprofitedbythis
lullintheexcitementbymoremeansthanone,particularlyinsightof
aflockofwildpigeons.Theyalightedinthetopsofpinesbelowme,
so
thatIcouldstudythemthroughmyfieldglass.Theywere
considerably

322
largerthandoves,dullpurplecolorontheback,lightonthebreast,
withringedorbarredneck.Haughthadassuredmethatbirdsofthis
descriptionwereindeedthefamouswildpigeons,nowalmostextinct
in
theUnitedStates.Irememberedmyfathertellingmehehadseen
flocks
thatdarkenedtheskies.Thesepigeonsappearedtohaveswiftflight.

Anotherfeatureofthisrestalongtherimwasasightjustasbeautiful
asthatofthepigeons,thoughnotsorare;anditwastheflyingof
cloudsofcoloredautumnleavesonthewind.

Thewesteringofthesunadvisedmethatthehourshadfled,andit
was
hightimeformetobestirmyselftowardcamp.OnmywaybackI
found
Haught,hissonGeorge,CoppleandR.C.waitingforEddandNielsen
to
comeupovertherim,andformetoreturn.Theyaskedformystory.
ThenIlearnedtheirs.Haughthadkeptevenwiththehounds,buthad
seenonlythebrownbearthathadcrossedtheridgeearlyintheday.
Copplehadworkedfarwestward,tonoavail.R.C.hadbeencloseto
Georgeandme,hadheardourbulletspat,yethadbeenunableto
locate
anybear.TomysurpriseitturnedoutthatGeorgehadshotata
brown
bearwhenIhadsupposeditwasmyblackone.WhereuponHaught
said:
ReckonEddanNielsensmokedupsomeotherbear.

Onebyonethehoundsclimbedovertherimandwearilylaydown
beside
us.Downthelong,grassy,cedaredaisleIsawEddandNielsen
plodding
up.Atlengththeyreacheduswetanddustyandthirsty.WhenEdd

323
got
hisbreathhesaid:Rightoffwestruckahottrail.Bearwith
eleveninchtrack.Hedcomedowntodrinklastnight.Hounds
workedup
thetyelleroakthicket,ansomewhereSueanRockjumpedhimoutof
hisbed.Herundown,anhemadesomeracket.Tooktothelow
slopes
anhituplivelyallthewaydownDude,thencrossed,climbedaround
underthetbarepointofrock.Heresomeofthehoundscaughtup
with
him.Weheardapupyelp,anafterawhileKaiserBillcomesneakin
back.Itwasawfulthickdowninthecanyonsoweclimbedtheeast
side
highenoughtosee.Anwewereworkindownwhenthepackbayed
the
bearroundthetbarepoint.Itwasupanacrossfromus.NielsenanI
climbedonarock.Therewasanopenrockslidewherewethought
the
bearwouldshow.Itwasfivehundredyards.Weoughttohavegone
across
angotastandhigherup.Well,prettysoonwesawhimcome
paddlin
outofthebrushabiggrizzly,almostblack,withafrostyback.He
wasasilvertipallright.NielsanIbegantoshoot.Anthetbear
begantohumphimself.Hewasmad,too.Hisfurstooduplikea
ruffle
onhisneck.NielsgotfourshotsanIgotthree.Reckononeofus
stunghimalittle.Lordy,howherun!Anhislastjumpofftheslide
wasaheaderintothebrush.Hecrossedthecanyon,anclimbedthet
higheastslopeofDude,goinoverthepasswherefatherkilledthebig
cinnamonthreeyearsago.Thehoundsstucktohistrail.Ittookusan
hourormoretoclimbuptothetpass.Broadbeartrailgoesover.We
heardthehoundswaydowninthecanyonontheotherside.Nielsan
I
workedalongtheridge,downanaround,anbacktoDudeCreek.I

324
kept
callinthehoundstilltheyallcameback.Theycouldntcatchhim.He
surewasajackrabbitforrunnin.Reckonthetsall....Nowwhowas
smokinshellsupontherim?

WhenallwastoldandtalkedoverHaughtsaid:Wal,youcanjustbet
we
putuptwobrownbearsanoneblackbear,anthetoldJasperofa
silvertip.

HowhungryandthirstyandtiredIwaswhenwegotbacktocamp!
Theday
hadbeensingularlyrichinexcitingthrillsandsensorialperceptions.
IcalledtotheJap:Imstarvvedtodeath!AndTakahashi,whohad
manytimesheardmylittleboyLorenyellthat,grinnedalloverhis
duskyface.Aw,lotsgoodthingsprettysoon!

Aftersupperweloungedaroundacheerful,cracklingcampfire.The
blazeroaredinthebreeze,theredembersglowedwhiteandopal,the
smokeswoopeddownandcurledawayintothenightshadows.Old
Dan,as
usual,triedtositinthefire,andhadtoberescued.Buckcametome
whereIsatwithmybacktoapine,myfeettothewarmth.Hewas
lame
tonight,havingrunalldayonthatinjuredleg.Theotherdogslay
scatteredaroundinrangeoftheheat.Naturalindeedwasitthen,in
suchanenvironment,aftertalkingovertheauspiciousstartofour
hunt
atDudeCreek,thatweshoulddrifttothetellingofstories.

SensingthisdriftIopenedthehourofreminiscenceandtoldsomeof
my
experiencesinthejungleofsouthernMexico.Coppleimmediately
topped
mystoriesbymorewonderfulandhairraisingonesabouthisown

325
adventuresinnorthernMexico.ThesestirredNielsentotalkaboutthe
SeriIndians,andtheircannibalistictraits;andfromthesehedrifted
totheYumaIndians.Speakingoftheirremarkablestatureand
strength
hefinallygottothesubjectofgiantsofbrawnandboneinNorway.

OneyoungNorwegianwaseightfeettallandbroadinproportion.
His
employerwasacaptainofafishingboat.Onetime,onthewayto
their
homeport,aquarrelaroseaboutmoneyduetheyounggiant,andin
his
angerheheavedtheanchoroverboard.Thatofcoursehaltedtheboat,
anditstayedhalted,becausethecaptainandcrewcouldnotheavethe
heavyanchorwithoutthehelpoftheirbrawnycomrade.Finallythe
money
matterwasadjusted,andtheyounggiantheavedtheanchorwithout
assistance.Nielsenwentontotellthatthisfishermanofsuchmighty
framehadabeautifulyoungwifewhomheadored.Shewasnotby
any
meansasmallorfrailgirlratherthecontrarybutsheappeared
diminutivebesidehergianthusband.Onedayhereturnedfroma
long
absenceonthesea.Whenhiswife,inherjoy,ranintohisarms,he
gavehersuchatremendoushugthathecrushedherchest,andshe
died.
Inhisgrieftheyounghusbandwentinsaneanddidnotsurviveher
long.

NextNielsentoldastoryaboutNorwegianssailingtotheArcticona
scientificexpedition.Justbeforethelongpolarnightofdarknessset
intherearoseanecessityfortheshipandcrewtoreturntoNorway.
TwomenmustbeleftintheArctictocareforthesuppliesuntilthe
shipcameback.Thecaptaincalledforvolunteers.Thereweretwo
young

326
meninthecrew,andfromchildhoodtheyhadbeenplaymates,
schoolmates,closerthanbrothers,andinseparableeveninmanhood.
One
oftheseyoungmensaidtohisfriend:Illstayifyouwill.Andthe
otherquicklyagreed.Aftertheshipsailed,andthelandofthe
midnightsunhadbecomeicyandblack,oneofthesecomradesfellill,
andsoondied.Thelivingoneplacedthebodyintheroomwiththe
ship
supplies,whereitfrozestiff;andduringallthelongpolarnightof
solitudeandghastlygloomhelivednexttothissepulchrethat
containedhisdeadfriend.Whentheshipreturnedthecrewfoundthe
livingcomradeanoldmanwithhairaswhiteassnow,andneverin
his
lifeafterwardwasheseentosmile.

ThesestoriesstirredmyemotionslikeDoylestaleaboutJonesRanch.
Howwonderful,beautiful,terribleandtragicalishumanlife!AgainI
heardthestill,sadmusicofhumanity,theeternalbeatandmoanof
the
wavesuponalonelyshingleshore.Whowouldnotbeatelleroftales?

CopplefollowedNielsenwithastoryaboutaprodigiousfeatofhis
ownastoryofincrediblestrengthandendurance,whichatfirstI
took
tobeasatireonNielsensremarkablenarrative.ButCoppleseemed
deadlyserious,andIbegantoseethathepossessedastrange
simplicityofexaggeration.TheboysthoughtCopplestretchedthe
truth
alittle,butIthoughtthathebelievedwhathetold.

Haughtwasagreattelleroftales,andhisfirststoryoftheevening
happenedtobeabouthisbrotherBill.Theyhadalongchaseaftera
bearandbecameseparated.Billwasnewatthegame,andhewasa
peculiarfellowanyhow.Muchgiventotalkingtohimself!Haught
finally

327
rodetotheedgeofaridgeandespiedBillunderapineinwhichthe
houndshadtreedabear.BilldidnothearHaughtsapproach,andon
the
momenthewasstalkingroundthepine,swearingatthebear,which
clung
toabranchabouthalfwayup.ThenHaughtdiscoveredtwomore
fullgrownbearsupinthetopofthepine,thepresenceofwhichBill
hadnottheremotestsuspicion.Ahuh!youoleblackJasper!Billwas
yelling.ItreedyouaninaminnitImagointoassassinateyou.
Chasedmeaboutahundredmiles!Anthoughtyoudfoolme,didnt
you?Why,Ivetreedmorebearsthanyoueversaw!Youneednt
lookat
melikethet,causeImmadasahornet.Imagointoassassinateyou
inaminnitanskinyourblackharoff,Iam

Bill,interruptedHaught,whatareyougointodoabouttheother
twobearsupinthetopofthetree?

Billwasamazedtohearandseehisbrother,andgreatlyastounded
and
tremendouslyelatedtodiscovertheothertwobears.Heyelledand
acted
asonedemented.ThreeblackJaspers!Ivetreedyouall.AnIm
agointoassassinateyouall!

Seehere,Bill,saidHaught,beforeyoubeginthatassassinatinmake
upyourmindnottocrippleanyofthem.Youvegottoshootstraight,
sotheyllbedeadwhentheyfall.Iftheyreonlycrippled,theyll
killthehounds.

Billwasinsultedatanysuggestionsastohispossiblepoor
marksmanship.Butthishappenedtobehisfirstexperiencewithbears
in
trees.Hebegantoshootandittooknineshotsforhimtodislodgethe
bears.Worsethanthattheyalltumbledoutofthetreeapparently

328
unhurt.Thehounds,ofcourse,attackedthem,andtherearosea
terribleuproar.Haughthadtorundowntosavehisdogs.Billwas
going
toshootrightintothemelee,butHaughtknockedtherifleup,and
forbidhimtouseit.ThenBillranintothethickofthefraytobeat
offthehounds.Haughtbecameexceedinglybusyhimself,andfinally
disposedoftwoofthebears.Thenhearingangrybawlsandterrific
yellsheturnedtoseeBillclimbingatreewithabigblackbear
tearingtheseatoutofhispants.Haughtdisposedofthisbearalso.
Thenhesaid:Bill,Ithoughtyouwasgointoassassinatethem.Bill
sliddownoutofthetree,verypaleanddisheveled.ByGolly,Ill
skinemanyhow!

HaughthadanotherbrothernamedHenry,whohadcometoArizona
from
Texas,andhadbroughtahalfhoundwithhim.Henryofferedto
wager
thisdogwasthebestbearchaserinthecountry.Thegeneral
impression
Henryshoundgavewasthathewouldnotchasearabbit.Finally
Haught
tookhisbrotherHenryandsomeothermenonabearhunt.There
were
wagersmadeastothequalityofHenryshalfhound.Whenatlast
Haughtspackstruckahotscent,andwereoffwiththemenriding
fast
behind,Henryshalfbreedlopedalongsidehismaster,payingno
attentiontothewildbayingofthepack.HewouldlookupatHenry
as
iftosay:Nohurry,boss.Waitalittle.ThenIllshowthem!He
lopedalong,wagginghistail,evidentlyenjoyingthisracewithhis
master.Afterawhilethechasegrewhotter.ThenHenryshalfhound
ran
aheadalittleway,andcamebacktolookupwisely,asiftosay:Not
timeyet!Afterawhile,whenthechasegrewveryhotindeed,

329
Henrys
wonderfulcanineletoutawildyelp,dartedahead,overtookthepack
andtooktheleadinthechase,literallychewingtheheelsofthebear
tillhetreed.Haughtandhisfriendslostallthewagers.

ThemostremarkablebearsinthispartofArizonawerewhatHaught
calledbluebears,possiblysomekindofacrossbetweenbrownand
black.Thisspecieswasalong,slim,bluefurredbearwithunusually
largeteethandverylongclaws.Sodifferentfromordinarybearsthat
itappearedanotherspecies.Thebluebearcouldrunlikea
greyhound,
andkeepitupalldayandallnight.Itspowerofendurancewas
incredible.InHaughtstwentyyearsofhuntingtherehehadseena
numberofbluebearsandhadkilledtwo.Haughtchasedoneallday
with
youngandfasthounds.Hewenttocamp,butthehoundsstucktothe
chase.NextdayHaughtfollowedthehoundsandbearfromDude
Creekover
intoVerdeCanyon,backtoDudeCreek,andthenbacktoVerde
again.
HereHaughtgaveout,andwasonhiswayhomewhenhemetthe
bluebear
paddingalongaslivelyasever.

InevertiredoflisteningtoHaught.Hehadkilledoverahundred
bears,manyofthemviciousgrizzlies,andhehadoftenescapedbya
breadthofahair,butthekillingstorieswerenotthemostinteresting
tome.Haughthadlivedasingularlyelementallife.Heneverknew
what
totellme,becauseIdidnotknowwhattoaskfor,soIjustwaitedfor
stories,experiences,woodcraft,naturalhistoryandthelike,tocome
whentheywould.OncehehadownedanoldbayhorsenamedMoze.
Under
anyconditionsofweatherorcountryMozecouldfindhiswaybackto
camp.Haughtwouldletgothebridle,andMozewouldstickuphis

330
ears,
lookabouthim,andcirclehome.Nomatterifcamphadbeenjust
where
Haughthadlastthrownapacksaddle!

WhenHaughtfirstcametoArizonaandbeganhishuntingupover
therim
heusedtogetdowninthecedarcountry,closetothedesert.Herehe
heardofapureblackantelopethatwastheleaderofaherdof
ordinary
color,whichwasagrayishwhite.ThedaycamewhenHaughtsaw
this
blackantelope.Itwasaverylarge,beautifulstag,themostnobleand
wildandsagaciousanimalHaughthadeverseen.Foryearshetriedto
stalkitandkillit,andsodidotherhunters.Butnohunterevergot
evenashotatit.Finallythisblackantelopedisappearedandwas
never
heardofagain.

BythistimeCopplehadbeenpermittedalongbreathingspell,and
now
beganatalecalculatedtooutdotheArabianNights.Ienviedhismost
remarkableimagination.Hisstoryhadtodowithhuntingmeatfora
miningcampinMexico.Hegotsoexpertwithariflethathenever
aimed
atdeer.Justthrewhisgun,aswasahabitofgunfighters!Oncethe
campwasoutofmeat,andalsohewasoutofammunition.Onlyone
shell
left!Hecameuponaherdofdeerlickingsaltatadeerlick.Theywere
smalldeerandhewantedseveralorallofthem.Sohemanoeuvred
around
andwaiteduntilfiveofthedeerhadlinedupclosetogether.Then,to
makesure,heaimedsoastosendhisonebulletthroughtheirnecks.
Killedthewholefiveinoneshot!

331
Wewereallreducedtoastateofmutehelplessnessandcompletelyat
Copplesmercy.Nexthegaveusoneofhisanimaltales.Hewas
hunting
alongthegulfshoreonthecoastofSonora,wherebigturtlescomeout
tobaskinthesunandbigjaguarscomedowntoprowlformeat.One
morninghesawajaguarjumponthebackofahugeturtle,andbegin
to
pawatitsneck.Promptlytheturtledrewinheadandflippers,and
was
safeunderitsshell.Thejaguarscratchedandclawedatagreatrate,
buttonoavail.Thenthebigcatturnedroundandseizedthetailof
theturtleandbegantochewit.Whereupontheturtlestuckoutits
head,openeditshugemouthandgraspedthetailofthejaguar.First
to
giveinwasthecat.Heletgoandletoutasquall.Buttheturtle
startedtocrawloff,gotgoingstrong,anddraggedthejaguarintothe
seaanddrownedhim.WithnaiveearnestnessCoppleassuredhis
mute
listenersthathecouldshowthemtheexactspotinSonorawherethis
happened.

Retributioninevitablyovertakestransgressors.Coppleinhisimmense
loquaciousnesswasnottransgressingmuch,forhereallywasno
greater
dreamerthanI,butthewayheputthingsmadeuswanttoseethe
mighty
hunterhaveafall.

Werestedthehoundsnextday,andIwasgladtorestmyself.About
sunsetCopplerodeuptotherimtolookforhismules.Weallheard
him
shooteighttimeswithhisrifleandtwowithhisrevolver.Everybody
said:Turkeys!Tenturkeysmaybeadozen,ifCopplegottwoin
line!
Andwewereallgladtothinkso.Wewatchedeagerlyforhim,buthe

332
did
notreturntilldark.Heseemedvastlysoreathimself.Whata
remarkablehardluckstoryhetold!Hehadcomeuponaflockof
turkeys,
andtheywereratherdifficulttosee.Allofthemwereclose,and
runningfast.Heshoteighttimesateightturkeysandmissedthemall.
Toodarkbrushtreesrunninglikedeer.Copplehadadozen
excuses.
Thenhesawaturkeyonalogtenfeetaway.Heshottwice.The
turkey
wasaknot,andhehadmissedeventhat.

ThereuponIseizedmyopportunityandremindedallpresenthow
Copple
hadcalledout:Turkeynumberone!Turkeynumbertwo!thedayI
had
missedsomany.ThenIsaid:

Ben,youmusthaveyelledouttonightlikethis.AndIraisedmy
voicehigh.

TurkeynumberoneNix!...Turkeynumbertwomissed,byGosh!...
Turkeynumberthreenevertouchedhim!...Turkeynumberfour
No!...
Turkeynumberfive_Aw,Imshootinblankshells_!...Turkey
number
sixonthelogBYTHUNDER,ICANTSEESTRAIGHT!

WeallhadourfunatCopplesexpense.Theoldbearhunter,Haught,
rolledontheground,overandover,androaredinhismirth.

VII

EarlynextmorningbeforethesunhadtippedthepineswithgoldI

333
went
downBarberShopCanyonwithCoppletolookforourhorses.During
the
nightourstockhadbeenchasedbyalion.Wehadallbeenawakened
by
theirsnortingandstampeding.Wefoundourhorsesscattered,the
burros
gone,andCopplesmulesstillsquaredonguard,readytofight.
Copple
assuredmethatthisformationofhismulesonguardwasaninfallible
signoflionsprowlingaround.Oneofthesemuleshehadownedfor
ten
yearsanditwasindeedthemostintelligentbeastIeversawinthe
woods.

Wefoundthreebeaverdamsacrossthebrook,oneaboutfiftyfeet
long,
andanotherfullytwohundred.Freshturkeytracksshowedinplaces,
and
onthetopofthelongerdam,freshmadeinthemud,wereliontracks
as
largeasthecrownofmyhat.Howsightofthemmademetingleall
over!
Herewasabsoluteproofoftheprowlingofoneofthegreatcats.

Beavertrackswereeverywhere.Theywererathersingularlooking
tracks,
thefrontfeetbeingfivetoed,andthebackthreetoed,andwebbed.
Neartheslidesonthebankthewaterwasmuddy,showingthatthe
beaver
hadbeenatworkearly.Theseanimalsworkedmostlyatnight,but
sometimesatsunsetandsunrise.Theywereindeedverycautiousand
wary.Thesedamshadjustbeencompletedandnoaspenshadyet
beencut
forfood.Beaverusuallyhavetwoholestotheirhome,oneunderthe

334
water,andtheotheroutonthebank.Wefoundoneoftheseoutside
burrowsanditwasnearlyafootwide.

UponourreturntocampwiththehorsesHaughtsaidhecouldputup
that
lionforus,andfromthesizeofitstrackhejudgedittobeabig
one.IdidnotwanttohuntlionsandR.C.preferredtokeepafter
bears.Wal,saidHaught,Illtakeanoffdayanchasethetlion.
Hadaburrokilledhereacoupleofyearsago.

Sowerodeoutwiththehoundsonanotherbearhunt.PylesCanyon
lay
totheeastofDudeCreek,andwedecidedtorunitthatday.Eddand
Nielsenstarteddownwiththehounds.CoppleandIfollowedshortly
afterwardwiththeintentionofdescendingmidway,andthen
working
alongtheridgecrestsandpromontories.Theotherboysremainedon
the
rimtotakeupvariousstandsasoccasioncalledfor.

Ihadneverbeenonassteepslopesastheseundertherim.Theywere
grassy,brushy,rocky,butitwastheirsteepnessthatmadethemso
hard
totravel.Rightoff,halfwaydown,westartedaherdofbucks.The
noisetheymadesoundedlikecattle.Wefoundtracksofhalfadozen.
Lotsofdeerundertherim,declaredCopple,hiseyesgleaming.
Theyrefeedinonacorns.Hereswhereyoullgetyourbigbuck.
AfterthatIkeptasharplookout,arguingwithmyselfthatabuck
close
athandwasworthalotofbearsdowninthebrush.

Presentlywechangedadirectdescenttoworkgraduallyalongthe
slopes
towardagreatlevelbenchcoveredwithpines.Wehadtocrossgravel
patchesandpitswhereavalancheshadslid,andatlast,gainingthe

335
benchwewentthroughthepinegrove,outtoamanzanitathicket,to
a
rockypointwheretheledgesweretopplinganddangerous.Thestand
here
affordedamagnificentview.Wewerenowdowninthethickofthis
slopedandcanyonedandtimberedwildness;nolongeraboveit,and
aloof
fromit.Thedrysmellofpinefilledtheair.Whenwefinallyhaltedto
listenweatonceheardthebayingofthehoundsintheblacknotch
belowus.Wewatchedandlistened.Andpresentlyacrossopen
patcheswe
sawtheflashofdeer,andthenRockandBuckfollowingthem.Thus
were
mysuspicionsofRockfullyconfirmed.CoppleyelleddowntoEdd
that
someofthehoundswererunningdeer,butapparentlyEddwastoo
far
awaytohear.

Still,afterawhileweheardthemellowtonesofEddshorn,callingin
thehounds.Andthenheblewthesignaltoacquaintallofusabove
that
hewasgoingdownaroundthepointtodrivethenextcanyon.Copple
and
Ihadtochoosebetweenclimbingbacktotherimortryingtocrossthe
slopesandheadthegorges,andascendthehugeridgethatseparated
PylesCanyonfromthenextcanyon.IleftthequestiontoCopple,
with
theresultthatwestayedbelow.

Wewerestillhighup,thoughwhenwegazedaloftattherimwefelt
so
fardown,andtheslopesweresteep,stony,softinplacesandslippery
inothers,withdeepcutsandpatchesofmanzanita.NostrangerwasI
to

336
thisbeautifultreacherousSpanishbrush!IsharedwithCopplea
dislike
ofitalmostequaltothatinspiredbycactus.Wesoonwerehot,dusty,
dry,andhadbeguntosweat.Theimmensedistancesoftheplacewere
whatcontinuallystruckme.Distancesthatweredeceptivethat
looked
shortandwereinterminable!ThatwasArizona.Wecoveredmilesin
our
detoursandwehadtotravelfastbecauseweknewEddcouldround
the
baseofthelowerpointsinquicktime.

AbovetheheadofthethirdgorgeCoppleandIranacrossan
enormous
beartrack,freshinthedust,leadingalonganoldbeartrail.This
trackmeasuredtwelveinches.HesanoldJasper,asHaughtsays,
declaredCopple.Grizzly.Anyoucanbetheheardthedogsangot
movinawayfromhere.Butheaintscared.Hewaswalkin.

Iforgotthearduoustoil.Howtightandcoolandpricklingthefeelof
myskin!Thefreshtrackofabiggrizzlywouldrousethehunterin
any
man.Wemadesurehowfreshthistrackwasbyobservingtwigsand
sprigs
ofmanzanitajustbroken.Thewoodwasgreen,andwetwithsap.Old
Bruinhadnotescapedoureyesanytoosoon.Wefollowedthisbear
trail,evidentlyoneusedforyears.Itmadeclimbingeasyforus.Trust
abig,heavy,oldgrizzlytopickoutthebesttravelingoverrough
country!Thisfellow,Iconcluded,hadtheeyeofasurveyor.Histrail
ledgraduallytowardawonderfulcragcrownedridgethatrolledand
heaveddownfromtherim.Ithadadiporsaddleinthemiddle,and
rose
fromthattotheloftymesa,andthenonthelowerside,rosetoabare,
roundpointofgrayrock,alandmark,adomeshapedtowerwhere
thegods

337
ofthatwildregionmighthavekepttheirvigil.

Longindeeddidittakeustoclimbupthebeartrailtowhereit
crossedthesaddleandwentdownontheothersideintoacanyonso
deep
andwildthatitwaspurple.Thissaddlewasreallyaremarkable
placeanaturaltrailandoutletandescapeforbearstravelingfrom
onecanyontoanother.Ourbeartracksshowedfresh,andwesaw
where
theyleddownasteep,long,darkaislebetweenpinesandsprucestoa
denseblackthicketbelow.Thesaddlewasabouttwentyfeetwide,
andon
eachsideofitrosesteeprocks,affordingmosteffectivestandsfora
huntertowaitandwatch.

Werestedthen,andlistened.Therewasonlyalittlewind,andoften
itfooledus.Itsoundedlikethebayingofhounds,andnowlikethe
hallooingofmen,andthenlikethedistantpealofahorn.Byandbye
Copplesaidheheardthehounds.Icouldnotbesure.Soonweindeed
heardthedeepsounding,wildbayofOldDan,thecourse,sharp,
ringing
bayofOldTom,andthen,lessclear,thechorusfromtheother
hounds.
Eddhadstartedthemonatrailupthismagnificentcanyonatourfeet.
AfterawhileweheardEddsyell,faraway,butclear:Hi!Hi!We
couldseeapartofthethicket,shaggyandredandgold;andamileor
moreoftheoppositewallofthecanyon.Norougher,wilderplace
could
havebeenimaginedthanthissteepslopeofbluffs,ledges,benches,all
mattedwithbrush,andspottedwithpines.Holesandcavesand
cracks
showed,andyellowblankwalls,andbronzepoints,andgreenslopes,
and
weatheredslides.

338
Soonthebayingofthehoundsappearedtopassbelowandbeyond
us,up
thecanyontoourright,acircumstancethatworriedCopple.Letsgo
fartherup,hekeptsaying.ButIwasloathtoleavethatsplendid
stand.Thebayingofthehoundsappearedtoswingroundcloser
underus;
toring,toswell,tothickenuntilitwasacontinuousandmelodious,
wild,echoingroar.Thenarrowingwallsofthecanyonthrewthe
echoes
backandforth.

PresentlyIespiedmovingdots,oneblue,onebrown,ontheopposite
slope.TheywereHaughtandhissonEddslowlyandlaboriously
climbing
upthesteepbluff.Howlikesnailstheyclimbed!Theirswasindeeda
task.Ayellpealedoutnowandthen,andthoughitseemedtocome
from
anentirelydifferentdirectionitsurelymusthavecomefromthe
Haughts.Presentlysomeonehighontherimansweredwithlike
yells.
Thechasewasgrowinghotter.

Theyvegotabearupsomewhere,criedCopple,excitedly.AndI
agreedwithhim.

Thenwewerestartledbythesharpcrackofariflefromtherim.

Theballsopen!Getyourpardners,boys,exclaimedCopple,with
animation.

Ben,wasntthata.30Govt?Iasked.

Surewas,hereplied.MusthavebeenR.C.openinup.Nowlook
sharp!

339
Igazedeverywhere,growingmoreexcitedandthrilled.Anothershot
from
above,fartheroffandfromadifferentrifle,augmentedourstirring
expectation.

Coppleleftourstandandranupovertheridge,andthendownunder
and
alongthebaseofarockwall.IhadallIcoulddotokeepupwithhim.
Wegotperhapsahundredyardswhenweheardthespangof
Haughts.30
Govt.Followingthishisbig,hoarsevoicebawledout:Hesgointo
thelefttotheleft!Thatsentusrightaboutface,toclimbing,
scrambling,runningandplungingbacktoourfirststandatthe
saddle,
wherewearrivedbreathlessandeager.

Eddwasclimbinghigherup,evidentlytoreachtheleveltopofthe
bluffabove,andHaughtwasworkingfartherupthecanyon,climbing
a
little.Coppleyelledwithallhismight:Wheresthebear?

Bareverywhar!pealedbackHaughtsstentorianvoice.Howthe
echoes
clapped!

JustthenCoppleelectrifiedmewithawildshout._Wehow_!Isee
him....Whatawhopper!Hethrewuphisrifle:
_spang__spang__spang__spang__spang_.

Hisaimwasacrossthecanyon.Iheardhisbulletsstrike.Istrainedmy
eyesinflashinggazeeverywhere.Where?Where?Icried,wildly.

There!shoutedCopple,keenly,andhepointedacrossthecanyon.
Hes
goinoverthebenchaboveEdd....Nowhesoutofsight.Watchjust

340
overEdd.Hellcrossthatbench,goroundtheheadofthelittle
canyon,ancomeoutontheotherside,underthebarebluff....Watch
sharprightbythatbigsprucewiththedeadtop....Hesagrizzlyan
asbigasahorse.

Ilookeduntilmyeyeshurt.AllIsaidwas:Ben,yousawgamefirst
today.Suddenlyalarge,darkbrownobject,furryandgrizzled,huge
andround,movedoutoftheshadowunderthespruceandturnedto
go
alongtheedgeintheopensunlight.

Oh!lookathim!Iyelled.Astrong,hotgustofbloodranalloverme
andIthrilledtillIshook.WhenIaimedatthebearIcouldseehim
throughthecircleofmypeepsight,butwhenImovedthebeadofthe
frontsightuponhimitalmostcoveredhimup.Thedistancewas
farmorethanathousandyardsoverhalfamilewecalculated
afterward.ButItriedtodrawabeadonthebig,waggingbrown
shape
andfiredtillmyriflewasempty.

MeanwhileCopplehadreloaded.YouwatchwhileIshoot,hesaid.
Tell
mewhereImhittin.

Wonderfulwasittoseehowswiftlyhecouldaimandshoot.Isawa
puff
ofdust.Low,Ben!Spangranghisrifle.High!Againheshot,wide
thistime.Heemptiedhismagazine.Smokehimnow!heshouted,
gleefully.Illwatchwhileyoushoot.

Itstoofar,Ben,Ireplied,asIjammedthelastshellinthe
receiver.

Nono.Itsonlywedontholdright.Aimalittlecoarse,said
Copple.Gee,ainthesomebear!NoscaredtallastheJapsays....

341
Hesoneoftheoldsheepkillers.Hellweighhalfaton.Smokehim
now!

Myexcitementwasintense.Itseemed,however,Iwasmost
consumedwith
admirationforthatgrizzly.Notintheleastwasheafraid.Hewalked
alongtheroughplaces,trottedalongtheledges,andhereandtherehe
haltedtogazebelowhim.Iwaitedforoneofthesehalts,aimeda
triflehigh,andfired.Thegrizzlymadeaquick,angrymovementand
thenjumpeduponaledge.Hejumpedlikearabbit.

Youhitclosethattime,yelledBen.Holdthesamewayalittle
coarser.

Mynextbulletstruckapufffromrockabovethebear,andmythird,
hittingjustinfrontofhim,ashewasonayellowledge,coveredhim
withdust.Hereared,andwheeling,sheeredbackanddownthestep
he
hadmounted,anddisappearedinaclumpofbrush.Ishotintothat.
We
heardmybulletcrackthetwigs.Butitroutedhimout,andthenmy
last
shothitfarunderhim.

Copplecircledhismouthwithhishandsandbellowedtothe
Haughts:
Climb!Climb!Hurry!Hurry!Hesjustaboveyouunderthatbluff.

TheHaughtsheard,andevidentlytriedtodoallintheirpower,but
theymovedlikesnails.ThenCopplefiredfivemoreshots,quick,yet
deliberate,andhegotthroughbeforeIhadreloaded;andasIbegan
my
thirdmagazineCopplewassoswiftinreloadingthathisfirstshot
mingledwithmysecond.Howwemadethewelkinring!Wildyells
pealed

342
downfromtherim.Somewherefromthepurpledepthsbelow
Nielsens
giantsvoicerolledup.TheHaughtsoppositeansweredwiththeir
deep,
hoarseyells.OldDanandOldTombayedlikedistantthunder.The
young
houndsletoutastringofsharp,keenyelps.CoppleaddedhisIndian
cry,highpitchedandwild,tothepandemonium.ButIcouldnot
shoot
andscreechatoneandthesametime.

Hurry,Ben,Isaid,asIfinishedmythirdsetoffiveshots,the
lastshotofwhichwasmybestandknockeddirtinthefaceofthe
grizzly.

Againhereared.Thistimeheappearedtolocateourdirection.Above
thebedlamofyellsandbaysandyelpsandechoesIimaginedIheard
the
grizzlyroar.Hewasnowgettingfartheralongthebaseofthebluff,
andIsawthathewouldescapeus.Myriflebarrelwashotasfire.My
fingerswereallthumbs.Ijammedashellintothereceiver.Mylast
chancehadfled!ButCopplesbig,brown,swifthandsfedshellstohis
magazineasearsofcorngotoagrinder.Hehadawayofpokingthe
baseofashellstraightdownintothereceiverandmakingitsnap
forwardanddown.Thenhefiredfivemoreshotsasswiftlyashehad
reloaded.Someofthesehitclosetoourquarry.Theoldgrizzly
slowed
up,andlookedacross,andwaggedhishugehead.

Mygunsonfireallright,saidCopple,grimly,asheloadedstill
morerapidly.Carefullyheaimedandpulledtrigger.Thegrizzlygave
a
spasmodicjerkasifstungandsuddenlyhemadeaprodigiousleap
offa
ledge,downintoapatchofbrush,wherehethreshedlikealassoed

343
elephant.

Ben,youhithim!Iyelled,excitedly.

Onlymadehimmad.Hesnothurt....See,hesupagain....Willyou
lookatthat!

Thegrizzlyappearedtorolloutofthebrush,andlikeahugefurry
ballofbrown,hebounceddownthethicketedslopetoanopenslide
whereheunrolled,andstretchedintoarun.Copplegottwomore
shots
beforehewasoutofsight.

Gone!ejaculatedCopple.Anweneverfetchedhim!...Heainthurt.
Didyouseehimpiledownanrolloffthatslope?...Letssee.Igot
twentythreeshotsathim.Howmanyhadyou?

Ihadfifteen.

Say,itwassomefun,wasntitsmokinhimalongthere?Butwe
ought
tohavefetchedtheoldsheepkiller....Wonderwhatshappenedtothe
otherfellows.

Welookedaboutus.Notimprobablytheexcitingmomentshadbeen
fewin
number,yettheyseemedlongindeed.TheHaughtshadgottentothe
top
ofthebluff,andweretearingthroughthebrushtowardthepoint
Copple
haddesignated.Theyreachedittoolate.

Whereishe?yelledEdd.

Gone!boomedCopple.Runnindownthecanyon.Callthedogsan

344
go
downafterhim.

WhentheHaughtscameoutintotheopenuponthatbenchoneofthe
pups
andthespottedhound,Rock,werewiththem.OldDanandoldTom
were
bayingupattheheadofthecanyon,andSuecouldbeheardyelping
somewhereelse.Beartrailsseeminglywereabundantnearour
whereabouts.PresentlytheHaughtsdisappearedatthebackofthe
bench
wheretheoldgrizzlyhadgonedown,andevidentlytheyputthetwo
houndsonhistrail.

Thatgrizzlywillclimboverroundthelowerendofthisridge,
declaredCopple.Wewanttobethere.

Sowehurriedlyleftourstand,andtakingtotheSouthsideofthe
ridge,weranandwalkedandclimbedandplungeddownalongthe
slope.
KeepingupwithCoppleonfootwasharderthanridingafterEddand
George.WhensoonwereachedamanzanitathicketIcouldnolonger
keep
Coppleinsight.Hewassopowerfulthathejustcrashedthrough,but
I
hadtowormmyway,andwalkoverthetopsofthebushes,likea
tightropeperformer.Ofallstrong,thick,spikybrushmanzanitawas
theworst.

InhalfanhourIjoinedCoppleatthepointunderthedometopped
end
oftheridge,onlytohearthehoundsapparentlyworkingbackupthe
canyon.Therewasnothingforustodobutreturntoourstandatthe
saddle.Copplehurriedfasterthanever.ButIhadbeguntotireandI
couldnotkeepupwithhim.ButasIhadnowildcravingstomeet

345
that
oldgrizzlyfacetofaceallbymyselfinamanzanitathicketIdid
managebydesperateeffortstokeeptheIndianinsight.WhenI
reached
ourstandIwaswetandexhausted.Afterthehot,stifling,dustyglare
oftheyellowslopeandtheburningofthemanzanitabrush,thecool
shadewasawelcomechange.

Somewhereallthehoundswerebaying.Notforsometimecouldwe
locate
theHaughts.Finallywiththeaidofmyglasswediscoveredthem
perched
highuponthebluffabovewhereourgrizzlyhadgoneround.It
appeared
thatEddwaspointingacrossthecanyonandhisfatherwas
manifestinga
keeninterest.Wedidnotneedtheglassthentotellthattheysawa
bear.Bothleveledtheirriflesandfired,apparentlyacrossthecanyon.
Thentheystoodlikestatues.

Illgodownintothethicket,saidCopple.MaybeIcangetashot.
AnanywayIwanttoseeourgrizzlystracks.Withthathestarted
down,andonceonthesteepbeartrailheslidratherthanwalked,and
soonwasoutofmysight.AfterthatIheardhimcrashingthrough
thicketandbrush.Soonthissoundceased.Thehounds,too,hadquit
bayingandthewindhadlulled.Notarustleofaleaf!Allthehunters
werelikewisesilent.Ienjoyedalonelyhourtherewatchingand
listening,nothoweverwithoutapprehensionsofabearcomingalong.
CertainIwasthatthiscanyon,whichIchristenedBearCanyon,had
been
fullofbears.

AtlengthIespiedCoppledownontheedgeoftheoppositeslope.The
wayhetoiledalongprovedhowroughwasthegoing.Iwatchedhim
throughmyglasses,andwasagainimpressedwiththestrange

346
difference
betweenthesemblanceofdistanceandthereality.Everyfewsteps
Copplewouldhalttorest.Hehadtoholdontothebrushandinthe
bareplaceswherehecouldnotreachabushhehadtodighisheels
into
theearthtokeepfromslidingdown.Intimeheascendedtotheplace
whereourgrizzlyhadrolleddown,andfromthereheyelleduptothe
Haughts,highabovehim.Theyanswered,andsoondisappearedon
thefar
sideofthebluff.Copplealsodisappearedgoingroundunderthewall
of
yellowrock.PerhapsinfifteenminutesIheardthemyell,andthena
wildclamorofthehounds.Someofthepackhadbeenputonthetrail
of
ourgrizzly;butgraduallythesoundgrewfartheraway.

Thiswastoomuchforme.Idecidedtogodownintothecanyon.
ForthwithIstarted.Itwaseasytogodown!Asamatteroffactitwas
hardnottoslidedownlikeastreak.Thatlong,dark,narrowaisle
betweenthespruceshadnocharmformeanyway.SupposeIshould
meeta
bearcomingupasIwasslidingdown!Isheeredoffandleftthetrail,
andalsoCopplestracks.Thiswasablunder.Icameoutintomore
open
slope,butsteeper,andhardertoclingon.Ledgescroppedout,cliffs
andravinesobstructedmypassageandtreeswerenotcloseenoughto
helpmemuch.Somelongslopesofdark,mossy,bareearthIactually
ran
down,trustingtolightswiftstepsratherthanslowcarefulones.It
wasexhilarating,thatdescentundertheshadyspruces.Thelower
downI
gotthesmallerandmorenumerousthetrees.Icouldseewherethey
left
offtothedensethicketthatchokedthelowerpartofthevshaped
canyon.AndIwasamazedatthesizeanddensityofthatjungleof

347
scrub
oaks,maplesandaspens.Fromabovethecolorwasablazeofscarlet
and
goldandgreen,withbronzetinge.

PresentlyIcrossedafreshbeartrack,sofreshthatIcouldseethe
dampnessofthedarkearth,therollingoflittleparticles,the
springingerectofbentgrasses.Insomeplacesbigsectionsofearth,a
yardwidehadslippedunderthefeetofthisparticularbear.He
appearedtobeworkingdown.RightthenIwantedtogoup!ButI
could
notclimboutthere.Ihadtogodown.SoonIwasunderlow
spreading,
densespruces,andIhadtoholdondesperatelytokeepfromsliding.
AllthetimenaturallyIkeptakeenlookoutforabear.Everystoneand
treetrunkresembledabear.IdecidedifImetagrizzlythatIwould
notannoyhimonthatslope.Iwouldsay:Nicebear,Iwonthurt
you!
Stillthesituationhadsomekindofcharm.ButtoclaimIwasnot
frightenedwouldnotbestrictlytruthful.Islidoverthetrailofthat
bearintothetrailofanotherone,andunderthelastbigspruceon
thatpartoftheslopeIfoundahollownestofpineneedlesandleaves,
andifthatbedwasnotstillwarmthenmyimaginationlent
considerable
tothemoment.

Beyondthisbegantheedgeofthethicket.Itwassmallpineatfirst,
soclosetogetherthatIhadtosqueezethrough,andasdarkas
twilight.Thegroundwasaslantofbrownpineneedles,soslippery,
thatifIcouldnothaveheldontotreesandbranchesIneverwould
havekeptmyfeet.InthisdarkstripIhadmorethanapprehensions.
Whatacomfortableplacetoencounteranoutragedorwounded
grizzly
bear!Themanzanitathicketwaspreferable.ButasProvidencewould
have

348
itIdidnotencounterone.

SoonIworkedorwormedoutofthepinesintothethicketofscrub
oaks,
maplesandaspens.Thechangewaswelcome.Notonlydidtheslope
lengthenout,butthelightchangedfromgloomtogold.Therewas
halfa
footofscarlet,gold,bronze,redandpurpleleavesontheground,and
everystepImadeIkickedacornsabouttorustleandroll.Bearsign
waseverywhere,tracksandtrailsandbedsandscratches.Ikeptgoing
down,andthefartherdownIgotthelighteritgrew,andmore
approachingalevel.Onegladewasstrangelyluminousandbeautiful
with
ablendingofgoldandpurplelightmadebythesunshiningthrough
the
leavesoverheaddownuponthecarpetofleavesontheground.ThenI
cameintoagladethatremindedmeofKiplingsmoonlightdanceof
the
wildelephants.Heretheleavesandfernwererolledandmattedflat,
smoothasifdonebyahugeroller.Bearsandbearshadlolledand
slept
andplayedthere.Alittlebelowthisgladewasaplace,shadyand
cool,
whereaseepofwatercamefromunderabank.Itlookedlikeaherd
of
cattlehadstampedtheearth,onlythetrackswerebeartracks.Little
onesnolongerthanachildshand,andlarger,uptohugetracksafoot
longandalmostaswide.Manywereold,butsomewerefresh.This
little
spotsmelledofbearsostronglythatitremindedmeofthebearpenin
theBronxParkZoologicalGarden.Ihadbeenkeenforsightofbear
trailsandscentofbearfur,butthiswasalittletoomuch.Ithought
itwastoomuchbecausetheplacewaslonelyanddarkandabsolutely
silent.Iwentondowntothegullythatrandownthemiddleofthe
canyon.Itwasmoreopenhere.Thesungotthrough,andtherewere

349
some
bigpines.

IcouldseethebluffthattheHaughtshadclimbedsolaboriously,and
nowIunderstoodwhytheyhadbeensoslow.Itwasstraightup,
brush
andjumbledrock,andtwohundredfeetovermyhead.Somewhere
above
thatbluffwasthebluffwhereourbearhadrunalong.

Irestedandlistenedforthedogs.Therewasnowindtodeceiveme,
but
IimaginedIhearddogseverywhere.Itseemedunwiseformetogo
on
downthecanyon,forifIdidnotmeetthemenIwouldfindmyself
lost.
AsitwasIwouldhavemytroublesclimbingout.

IchoseapartofthethicketsomedistanceabovewhereIhadcome
down,
hopingtofinditmoreopen,ifnotlesssteep,andnotsovastly
inhabitedwithbears.Loandbeholditwasworse!Itwasthicker,
darker,wilder,steeperandtherewas,ifpossible,actuallymorebear
sign.Ihadtopullmyselfupbyholdingtothetreesandbranches.I
hadtoresteveryfewsteps.Ihadtowatchandlistenallthetime.
Halfwayupthetrunksoftheaspensandoaksandmapleswereall
bent
downhill.Theycurvedoutanddownbeforetherestofthetreestood
upright.Andallthebrushwasflat,bendingdownhill,andabsolutely
almostimpassable.Thisfeatureoftreeandbrushwasofcourse
caused
bytheweightofsnowinwinter.Itwouldhavebeenmoreinteresting
if
Ihadnotbeensoanxioustogetup.IgrewhotterandwetterthanI
had

350
beeninthemanzanitas.Moreover,whatwiththelaborandworryand
exhaustion,myapprehensionshadincreased.TheyincreaseduntilI
had
toconfessthatIwasscared.OnceIheardarustleandpadonthe
leavessomewherebelow.Thatmademattersworse.SurelyIwould
meeta
bear.Iwouldmeethimcomingdownhill!AndImustnevershoota
bear
comingdownhill!BuffaloJoneshadcautionedmeonthatscore,so
had
ScottTeague,thebearhunterofColorado,andsohadHaught.Dont
nevershootnoolebarcomindownhill,causeifyoudohelljust
rollupanpiledownonyou!

Iclimbeduntilmytonguehungoutandmyheartwaslikelytoburst.
ThenwhenIhadtostraddleatreetokeepfromslidingdownIgot
desperateandmadandhopedanoldgrizzlywouldhappenalongto
makean
endtomymisery.

Ittookmeanhourtoclimbupthatpartoftheslopewhichconstituted
thethicketofoak,mapleandaspen.Itwashalfpastthreewhen
finally
Ireachedthesaddlewherewehadshotatthegrizzly.Irestedaslong
asIdared.Ihadstillalongwaytogoupthatridgetotherim,and
howdidIknowwhetherornotIcouldsurmountit.

However,agoodresthelpedtorevivestrengthandspirit.ThenI
started.OnceabovethesaddleIwasoutclearintheopen,highabove
thecanyons,andthevastbasinstillfartherbelow,yetfarindeed
underthepinefringedrimabove.Thisclimbwasalloverstone.The
ridgewasnarrowcrested,yellow,splinteredrock,withafewdwarf
pinesandsprucesandanoccasionalbunchofmanzanita.Ididnot
heara
soundthatIdidnotmakemyself.Whateverhadbecomeofthe

351
hounds,and
theotherhunters?ThehigherIclimbedthemoreIlikedit.Afteran
hourIwassurethatIcouldreachtherimbythisroute,andofcourse
thatstimulatedme.Tomakesure,andallaydoubt,Isatdownona
high
backboneofbarerockandstudiedtheheaveandbulgeofridgeabove
me.
UsingmyglassesImadesurethatIcouldclimbout.Itwouldbea
task
equaltothoseoflionhuntingdayswithJones,anditmademehappy
to
realizethatdespitetheinterveningtenyearsIwasstillequaltothe
task.

OnceassuredofthisIgrewacutetothesensationsofthehour.This
wasoneofmyespecialjoysoftheopentobealonehighonsome
promontory,abovewildandbeautifulscenery.Thesunwasstillan
hour
fromsetting,andithadbeguntosoften,togrowintense,andmore
golden.Therewerecloudsandlightsthatpromisedamagnificent
sunset.

SoIclimbedon.WhenIstoppedtorestIwouldshoveastoneloose
and
watchitheaveandslide,andleapoutandhurtledown,tomakethe
dustfly,andcrashintothethickets,andeventuallystartanavalanche
thatwouldroardownintothecanyon.

TheTontoBasinseemedavastbowlofrolling,rough,blackridges
and
canyons,greenanddarkandyellow,withthegreatmountainranges
enclosingittosouthandwest.Theblackfringedpromontoriesofthe
rim,boldandrugged,leaguesapart,stoodoutoverthevoid.The
colors
ofautumngleamedunderthecliffs,everywherepatchesofgoldand

352
long
slantsofgreenandspotsofscarletandcleftsofpurple.

Thelastbenchesofthatridgetaxedmywaningstrength.Ihadtostep
up,climbup,pullmyselfup,byhandandkneeandbody.Myrifle
grew
toweighaton.Mycartridgebeltwasaburdenofleadaroundmy
waist.
IfIhadbeenhotandwetbelowinthethicketIwonderedwhatIgrew
on
thelaststepsofthisridge.Yeteventhetoilandthepainheldakeen
pleasure.Ididnotanalyzemyfeelingsthen,butitwasgoodtobe
there.

Therimrockcameouttoapointaboveme,seemingunscalable,all
grown
overwithbrushandlichen,andstuntedspruce.Butbyhaulingmyself
up,andcrawlinghere,andwindingunderbridgesofrockthere,and
holdingtothebrush,atlast,pantingandspent,Ireachedthetop.

Iwasreadytodroponthematsofpineneedlesandliethere,
unutterablygratefulforrest,whenIheardOldTombaying,deepand
ringingandclose.Heseemedrightundertherimonthesideofthe
ridgeoppositetowhereIhadclimbed.Ilookedaround.Therewas
Georgeshorsetiedtoapine,andfartheronmyownhorseStockings.

ThenIwalkedtotherimandlookeddownintothegoldandscarlet
thicket.Actuallyitseemedtomethen,andalwayswillseem,thatthe
firstobjectIclearlydistinguishedwasabigblackbearstandingin
anopenaisleattheupperreachofthethicketclosetothecliff.He
shoneblackasshinycoal.Hewaslookingdownintothethicket,asif
listeningtothebayinghound.

Icouldnotrepressanexclamationofsurpriseandthrilling
excitement,

353
andIuttereditasIraisedmyrifle.JusttheinstantIsawhis
shiningfurthroughthecircleofmyrearsightheheardmeand
jumped,
andmybulletmissedhim.Likeablackflashhewasgonearounda
corner
ofgrayledge.

Well!Iejaculated,suddenlyweak.Afterallthislongdaytogeta
chancelikethatandmiss!

Allthatseemedleftofthatlongdaywasthesunset,outofwhichI
couldnotbecheatedbyblundersorbadluck.Westwardaglorious
golden
ballblazedovertherim.Abovethatshoneanintensebeltof
colorColeridgesyellowlightninganditextendedtoabankofcloud
thatseemedtransparentpurple,andaboveallthisflowedaseaof
purestblueskywithfleecysailsofpinkandwhiteandrose,
exquisitelyfleckedwithgold.

LostindeedwasItowearinessandtimeuntilthegorgeous
transformationatlastendedindullgray.Iwalkedalongtherim,back
towhereIhadtiedmyhorse.HesawmeandwhinniedbeforeI
located
thespot.Ijustabouthadstrengthenoughlefttostraddlehim.And
presentlythroughthetwilightshadowsIcaughtabrightglimmerof
our
campfire.Supperwasready;Takahashigrinnedhisconcernaway;all
the
menwerewaitingforme;andliketheAncientMarinerItoldmytale.
As
Isattoabountifulrepastregalingmyself,thetalkofmycompanions
seemedabsolutelysatisfying.

GeorgeHaught,onastandattheapexofthecanyon,hadheardand
seen

354
abigbrownbearclimbingupthroughthethicket,andhehad
overshot
andmissed.R.C.hadespiedabigblackbearwalkingaslidesome
four
hundredyardsdownthecanyonslope,andforgettingthathehada
heavy
closerangeshellinhisrifleinsteadofoneofhightrajectory,hehad
aimedaccordingly,toundershoothalfafootandthuslosehis
opportunity.Nielsenhadbeenlostmostoftheday.Itseemed
everywhere
heheardyellsandbaysdowninthecanyon,andoncehehadhearda
loud
rattlingcrashofaheavybeartearingthroughthethicket.Eddtoldof
thefearfulclimbheandhisfatherhadmade,howtheyhadshotatthe
grizzlyalongwayoff,howfunnyanotherbearhadrolledaroundin
his
bedacrossthecanyon.Butthehoundsgottootiredtoholdthetrails
lateintheday.AndlastlyEddsaid:WhenyouanBenweresmokin
the
grizzlyIcouldhearthebulletshitcloseaboveus,anIwassure
scaredstiffforfearyoudrollhimdownonus.Butfatherwasnt
scared.Hesaid,lettheoldJasperrolldown!Wellassassinatehim!

Whentheoldbearhunterbegantotellhispartinthedaysadventures
mypleasurewastinglinglykeenandnothingwaswantingonthe
moment
exceptthatmyboyRomerwasnottheretohear.

Wal,shoreitwasanoldbarday,saidHaught,withquaint
satisfaction.Hisblueshirt,raggedandtornandblackfrombrush,
surelyattestedtothetruthofhiswords.Alltoldweseenfivebars.
Twoblacks,twobrownsantheoldJasper.Someofthembigfellars,
too.Butwemissedseeinthebossbarofthiscanyon.WhenOldDan
openedupfirstoffIwantedEddtoclimbthetbluff.ButEddkept
goin

355
anwelostourchance.Ferprettysoonweheardabustinofthebrush.
My,butthetbarwasrockinheroff.Heknockedthebrushlikeawild
steer,anheranpastusclosenotahundredyards.Ineverhearda
heavierbar.Butwecouldntseehim.ThenEddstartedup,anthet
bluffwasawolfofaplace.WewashalfupwhenIseenthegrizzly
thet
youanBensmokedafterward.Hewasfaroff,butEddanIlammeda
coupleafterhimjestforluck.Oneofthepupswasnippinhisheels.
ThinkitwasBigFoot....Wal,thetwasallofthet.Weplumbbusted
ourselvesgettinontopofthebenchtoheadoffyourbar.Onlywe
hadnttime.Thenweworriedalongaroundtothetopofthethigher
bluffanthereIwassoplayedoutIthoughtmydayhadcome.We
kept
oureyespeeled,anprettysoonIspiedabigbrownbaractinqueerin
anopenspotacrossthecanyon.Eddseenhimtoo,anweargued
about
whatthetbarwasdoin.Helayinasmallopenplaceatthefootofa
spruce.Hewaggedhisheadslowanhemadeasiftorollover,anhe
stretchedhispaws,anactedshorequeer.Eddsaid:Thetbars
crippled.Hesbeenshotbyoneoftheboys,anhestryintogetup.
ButIshoredidntexactlyagreewithEdd.SoIwasforwatchinhim
somemore.Helookedlikeasickbarraisinhisheadsoslowan
droppinitsoslowansortoftwistinhisbody.Helookedlikehis
backhadbeenbrokeanhewastryintogetup,butsomehowI
couldnt
believethet.ThenhelaystillanEddsworehewasdead.ShoreIgot
almosttobelievinthetmyself,whenhewakedup.Anthentheold
scoundrelslidaroundlazylikeatorncatbythefire,andsortof
rolledonhisbackanstretched.Nextheslappedathimselfwithhis
paws.Ifhewasntsickhewasshoreactinqueerwiththetcanyonfull
ofcrackingunsanbayinhoundsanyellinmen.Ibeguntoget
suspicious.Shorehemustbeadyinbear.SoIsaidtoEdd:Letsbast
himacouplejustferluck.Wal,whenweshotupjumpedthetsickbar
quickernyoucouldwink.AnhepiledintothethicketwhileIwas
goindownafteranothershell....Itshorewasfunny.ThetoldJasper

356
neverheardtheracket,anifheheardithedidntcare.Hehadabed
inthetsunnyspotanhewasfoolinaround,playinwithhimselflike
akitten.Playin!AnEddreckonedhewasdyinanIcomeshorenear
beinfooled.TheoldJasper!Wellassassinatehimferthet!

VIII

Fivemorelongarduousdaysweputinchasingbearsundertherim
from
PylesCanyontoVerdeCanyon.Inallwestartedoveradozenbears.
But
Iwasinclinedtothinkthatwechasedthesamebearsoverandover
from
onecanyontoanother.Theboysgotagoodmanylongrangeshots,
which,
however,apparentlydidnodamage.Butasforme,theharderand
farther
ItrampedandthelongerIwatchedandwaitedthelessopportunity
hadI
toshootabear.

Thiscircumstanceweighedheavilyuponthespiritsofmycomrades.
They
woretheirbootsout,aswellasthefeetofthehounds,tryingtochase
abearsomewherenearme.AndwhereverIstayedorwenttherewas
the
placethebearsavoided.EddandNeilsenlostfleshinthisdailytoil.
Haughthadgloomymoments.Butasformethedailytenorfifteen
mile
grindupanddownthesteepcraggyslopeshadatlasttrainedme
backto
myformervigorouscondition,andIwashappy.Nooneknewit,not
even
R.C.,butthefactwasIreallydidnotcareintheleastwhetherIshot

357
abearornot.Bearswereincidentaltomyhuntingtrip.Ihadnota
littlesecretgleeoverthepraiseaccordedmebyCoppleandHaught
and
Nielsen,whoallthoughtthatthewayIperseveredwasremarkable.
They
wouldhavebrokentheirneckstogetmeabear.AttimesR.C.when
he
wastiredfellvictimtodiscouragementandhewouldmakesome
caustic
remark:Idontknowaboutyou.Iveahunchyouliketopackarifle
becauseitsheavy.Andyougodreamingalong!Sometimeabearwill
rise
upandswipeyouone!

Takahashipassedfromconcerntogriefoverwhatheconsideredmy
bad
luck:Mygoodnish!Noseebeartoday?...Maybemorebetterluck
tomorrow.IfIcouldhavehadsomeofTakahashisluckIwould
scarcelyhaveneededtoleavecamp.HeborrowedNielsens3040rifle
andwenthuntingwithouteverhavingshotit.Herodethelittle
buckskinmustang,that,remarkabletostate,hadnotyetthrownhim
or
kickedhim.Andonthatoccasionheledthemustangbacktocamp
witha
finetwopointbuckonthesaddle.Campneedfreshmeat,saidthe
Jap,
withhisbroadsmile.Igohunt.Ridealongoldroad.Soonnicefat
deerwalkoutfrombush.Twentystepsawaymaybe.Igetoff.Ino
want
killdeersoclose,soIwalkonhim.Deerhenoscared.Hejumpoff
few
stepsstickuphisearslookathorseallsamelikehethoughthim
deertoo.Inoaimgunfromshoulder.Ijustshoot.Nogood.Deerhe
run.Iaimthenwayfrontofhimshootdeerhedroprightdown
dead....Aw,easytogetdeer!

358

Iwouldhavegivenagreatdealtohavebeenabletodescribe
Haughts
facewhentheJapfinishedhisstoryofkillingthatdeer.Butsuchfeat
wasbeyondhumaningenuity.Wal,ejaculatedthehunter,inallmy
daysraslinroundwithfoolspackingunsIneverseenthelikesof
thet.NowondertheJapslickedtheRussians!Thisachievementof
Takahashisledmetosuggesthishuntingbearwithus.AwsureI
kill
beartoo,hesaid.Takahashioutwalkedandoutclimbedusall.He
never
madedetours.Heclimbedstraightupordescendedstraightdown.
Copple
andEddwerecompelledtoseehimtaketheleadandkeepit.Whata
wonderfulclimber!Whatapicturethesturdylittlebrownmanmade,
carryingariflelongerthanhimself,agileandsurefootedasagoat,
perfectlyathomeinthedepthsorontheheights!Itookoccasionto
askTakahashiifhehadbeenusedtomountainclimbinginJapan.
Aw
sure.Ihavefatherownwholemountainmorebiggerhere.Iclimb
highsawwood.Leetleboysobig.Andheheldhishandaboutafoot
fromtheground.Thusformeeverydaybroughtoutsomefurther
interestingorhumorousorremarkablefeaturepertainingto
Takahashi.

Thenextdayaddedtothediscouragementofmyparty.Wedrove
Verde
Canyonandranthedogsintoanestofsteeltraps.BigFootwas
caught
inone,andonlytheremarkablesizeandstrengthofhislegsavedit
frombeingbroken.Nielsenfoundapoor,miserable,littlefoxina
trap,whereithadbeenfordays,andwasnearlydead.Eddfounda
dead
skunkinanother.Hehadtocallthehoundsin.Wereturnedtocamp.
Thatnightwasreallytheonlycheerlessonethemenspentaroundthe

359
fire.Theydidnotknowwhattodo.Manifestlywithtrappersina
localitytherecouldbenomorebearchasing.Disappointmentperched
uponthecountenancesoftheHaughtsandCoppleandNielsen.Ilet
them
allhavetheirsay.FinallyHaughtspokeup:Wal,fellars,Im
figgerinhardanIreckonheresmystand.Wejestnaturallyhaveto
getDocanhisbrotherabearapiece.ShoreIexpectedwedgetema
couple.Now,themtrapsweseenareallsmall.Wedidntrunacross
no
beartraps.AnIreckonwecanriskthedogs.Wellshoregobackan
driveVerdeCanyon.Wecantdonoworsethanbreakalegforadog.
Id
hatetoseethethappentoOldDanorTom.Butwelltakeachance.

Afterthattherefellamomentssilence.IcouldseefromEddsface
whataseriouspredicamentthiswas.Nothingwasplainerthanhis
fondnessforthehounds.Finallyhesaid:Sure.Welltakeachance.
Theirdevotiontomyinterest,theirsimpleearnestness,warmedmeto
them.ButnotforallthebearsundertherimwouldIhavebeen
wittinglytoblameforOldDanorOldTombreakingaleg.

Men,Ivegotabetterplan,Isaid.Wellletthebearshererest
foraspell.Suppliesareaboutgone.LetsgobacktoBeaverDamcamp
foraweekorso.Restupthehounds.Maybewellhaveastormanda
coldsnapthatwillimproveconditions.Thenwellcomebackhere.Ill
sendHaughtdowntobuyoffthetrappers.Illpaythemtospring
their
trapsandletushaveourhuntwithoutriskofthehounds.

Instantlythemenbrightened.Theinsurmountableobstaclesseemed
to
meltaway.OnlyHaughtdemurredalittleatadditionaland
unreasonable
expenseforme.ButIcheeredhimoverthishindrance,andthelast
part

360
ofthateveningroundthecampfirewasverypleasant.

Thefollowingmorningwebrokecamp,andallrodeoff,except
Haughtand
hissonGeorge,whoremainedtohuntastrayedburro.Reckonthet
lion
eathim.Mybestburro.Hewastheoneyourboywasalwaysplayin
with.
Imgointoassassinatethetlion.

OnthewaybacktoBeaverDamcampIhappenedtobenear
Takahashiwhen
hedismountedtoshootatasquirrel.Returningtogetbackinthe
saddletheJapforgottoapproachthemustangfromtheproperside.
TherewasascufflebetweenTakahashiandthemustangastowhich
of
themshouldpossessthebridle.TheJaplostthisargument.Eddhadto
repairthebrokenbridle.IwatchedTakahashiandcouldseethathe
did
notlikethemustanganybetterthanthemustanglikedhim.Soonthe
struggleforsupremacywouldtakeplacebetweenthisillassorted
rider
andhorse.Iratherfeltinclinedtofavorthelatter;neverthelessit
wasonlyfairtoTakahashitoadmitthathisbuckskincolored
mustang
hadsomemeantraits.

InduetimeIarrivedatourpermanentcamp,tobethelasttogetin.
Leeandhisfatherwelcomedusasfamiliarfacesinastrangeland.As
I
dismountedIheardheavythudsandcracksaccompaniedbyfierce
utterancesinaforeigntongue.Thesesoundsissuedfromthecorral.

IllbettheJapgotwhatwascomingtohim,declaredLee.

361
Weallrantowardthecorral.Abunchofhorsesobstructedourview,
and
wecouldnotseeTakahashiuntilweranroundtotheotherside.The
Jap
hadthebuckskinmustangupinacornerandwasvigorously
whackinghim
withahugepole.Notbyanymeanswasthemustangdocile.Likea
mule,
hekicked.HeyGeorge,yelledLee,dontkillhim!Whatsthe
matter?

Takahashislammedthemustangonepartingblow,whichbrokethe
club,
andthenheturnedtous.Wecouldseefromdustanddirtonhis
person
thathehadlatelybeenincloserelationtotheearth.Takahashisface
waspaleexceptforagreatredlumponhisjaw.TheJapwasterribly
angry.Heseemedhurt,too.Withashakinghandhepointedtothe
bruise
onhisjaw.

Lookwhathedo!exclaimedTakahashi.Hethrowmeoff!...Hekick
me
awfulhard!Ikillhimsurenexttime.

LeeandImanagedtoconcealourmirthuntilouriratecookhad
gotten
outofhearing.Lookwhathedo!chokedLee,imitating
Takahashi.
ThenLeebrokeoutandroared.Ihadtojoinhim.IlaughedtillI
cried.Myfamilyandfriendsseverelycriticisethisprimitivetraitof
mine,butIcannothelpit.LaterIwenttoTakahashiandaskedto
examinehisjaw,fearingitmighthavebeenbroken.Thisfearofmine,
however,wasunfounded.MoreovertheJaphadrecoveredfromhis
painand

362
anger.Morebetternow,hesaid,withagrin.Maybemyfault
anyhow.

Nextdaywerested,andthefollowingmorningwassofineandclear
and
frostythatwedecidedtogohunting.WerodeeastonthewaytoSee
Lakethroughbeautifuldeepforest.

Isawadeertrottingawayintothewoods.Ijumpedoff,jerkedoutmy
gun,andranhard,hopingtoseehiminanopening.Lo!Ijumpeda
herd
ofsixmoredeer,someofthembucks.Theyplungedeverywhere.I
tried
franticallytogetmysightsonone.AllIcouldaimatwasbobbing
ears.Ishottwice,andofcoursemissed.R.C.shotfourtimes,onceat
arunningbuck,andthreeatasmalldeerthathesaidwasflying!

HereCoppleandHaughtcaughtupwithus.Wewenton,andturned
offthe
roadontheblazedtrailtoSeeLake.Itwasprettyopenforest,oaks
andscatteredpines,andafewspruce.Thefirstparkwecametowasa
flatgrassyopen,withplaceswheredeerlickedthebareearth.Copple
leftseveralpoundsofsaltinthesespots.R.C.andIwentuptothe
upperendwherehehadseendeerbefore.Nodeerthisday!Butsaw
three
turkeys,oneanoldgobbler.Welostsightofthem.

ThenCoppleandR.C.wentonewayandHaughtandIanother.We
went
cleartotherim,andthencircledaround,andeventuallymetR.C.and
Copple.Togetherwestartedtoreturn.Goingdownalittledrawwe
found
water,andR.C.sawwherearockhadbeensplashedwithwaterand
was
stillwet.ThenIsawaturkeytrackuponthisrock.Weslippedupthe

363
slope,withmeinthelead.AsIcameoutontop,Isawfivebig
gobblersfeeding.Strangehowthesegamebirdsthrilledme!Onesaw
me
andstartedtorun.Likeastreak!Anotheredgedawayintopines.
ThenI
espiedonewithhisheadandneckbehindatreeandhewas
scratching
awayinthepineneedles.Icouldnotseemuchofhim,butthatlittle
wasnotrunning,soIdrewdownuponhim,triedtoaimfine,and
fired.
Heleapedupwitharoarofwings,sendingthedustandneedles
flying.
Thenhedroppedback,andlikeaflashdartedintoathicket.

Anotherflewstraightoutoftheglade.Anotherranlikeanostrichin
thesamedirection.Itriedtogetthesightsonhim.Invain!

R.C.andCopplechasedthesetwospeedingturkeys,andHaughtand
Iwent
theotherway.Wecouldfindnotraceofours.Andwereturnedtoour
horses.

Presentlyweheardshots.Onetwothreepausethenseveralmore.
And
finallymore,toatotalnumberoffifteen.IcouldnotstandthatandI
hadtohurrybackintothewoods.Isawoneoldgobblerrunning
wildly
aroundasiflost,butIdidnotshootathimbecauseheseemedtobein
linewiththedirectionwhichR.C.andCopplehadtaken.Ishould
have
runafterhimuntilhewentsomeotherway.

Icouldnotfindthehunters,andreturnedtoourrestingplace,which
theyhadreachedaheadofme.Theyhadaturkeyeach,gobblers
abouttwo

364
yearsoldCopplesaid.

R.C.toldaninterestingstoryofhowhehadruninthedirectionthe
twoturkeyshadtaken,andsuddenlyflushedthirtyorfortymore,
some
bigoldgobblers,butmostlyyoung.Theyscatteredandran.He
followed
asfastashecould,shootingafewtimes.Copplecouldnotkeepup
with
him,butevidentlyhadafewshotshimself.R.C.chasedmostofthe
flockacrossseveralsmallcanyons,tillhecametoadeepcanyon.Here
hehopedtomakeakillingwhentheturkeysranupthefarslope.But
theyflewacross!Andheheardthemcluckingoverthere.Hecrossed,
and
wentoncautiously.Oncehesawthreeturkeyheadsstickingabovea
log.
Wiseoldgobblers!Theyprotectedtheirbodieswhiletheywatchedfor
him.Hetriedtogetsidewisetothembuttheyranoff.Thenhe
followed
untiloncemoreheheardclucking.

Herehesatdown,justbeyondtheedgeofacanyon,andbegantocall
withhisturkeywing.Itthrilledhimtohearhiscallsansweredonall
sides.Herewasawonderfulopportunity.Herealizedthattheturkeys
weremostlyyoungandscattered,andfrightened,andwantedto
come
together.Hekeptcalling,andastheynearedhimonallsideshefelt
somethingmorethanthezestofhunting.SuddenlyCopplebeganto
shoot.
Spang!Spang!Spang!R.C.sawthedustflyunderoneturkey.He
heard
thebulletglance.Thenextshotkilledaturkey.ThenR.C.yelledthat
hewasnoturkey!Thenofthatscatteringflockhemanagedtoknock
over
oneforhimself.

365

Copplehadbeendeceivedbythecallofanamateur.Thatflattered
R.C.,
buthewaskeenlydisappointedthatCopplehadspoiledthesituation.

Duringthedaytheblueskywascoveredbythinflyingcloudsthat
graduallythickenedanddarkened.Thewindgrewkeenerandcolder,
and
veeredtothesouthwest.Weallsaidstorm.Therewasnosunset
Darker
cloudsrolledup,obliteratingthefewstars.

Wewenttobed.LongafterthatIheardtheswellandroarandcrash
and
lullofthewindinthepines,asoundIhadlearnedtoloveinBuckskin
ForestwithBuffaloJones.AtlastIfellasleep.

SometimeinthenightIawoke.Afinerainwaspatteringonthetent.
Itgrewstronger.AfterawhileIwenttosleepagain.Uponawakening
I
foundthatthestormhadstruckwithavengeance.Itwasdullgray
daylight,foggy,cold,windy,withrainandsnow.

Igotup,builtafire,putteredaroundthetentstoloosentheground
ropes,andfoundthatitwasnippingcold.Myfingersached.The
storm
increased,andthenwefullyappreciatedthetentwithstove.Therain
roaredonthetentroof,andallmorningthewindincreased,andthe
air
grewcolder.Ihopeditwouldturntosnow.

Soonindeedwewerestormbound.Onthethirddaythewind
reacheda
veryhighvelocity.Theroarinthepineswasstupendous.Manytimes
I

366
heardthedullcrashofafallingtree.Withthegroundsaturatedbythe
copiousrain,andthefuryofthestormblast,agreatmanytreeswere
felled.Thatnightitrainedallnight,notsohard,butsteadily,now
low,nowvigorously.Aftermorningsnowbegantofall.Butitdidnot
laylong.Afterawhileitchangedtosleet.Attimesthedark,
lowering,scurryingcloudsbroketoemitaflareofsunshineandto
show
apatchofblue.Theselasthoweverweresoonobscuredbythe
scudding
graypall.Everynowandthenalittleshowerofrainorsleetpattered
onthetents.Welookedforaclearingup.

Thatnightabouteightoclockthecloudsvanishedandstarsshone.In
thenightthewindroseandroared.Inthemorningallwasdark,
cloudy,
raw,cold.Butthewindhaddiedout,andtherewerespotsofblue
showing.Thesespotsenlargedasthemorningadvanced,andabout
nine
thesun,goldenanddazzling,beautifiedtheforest.Brightsunnydays
willsooncomeagain!

Itwasgoodtohavehopeandbeliefinthat.

AllthehorsesbutDonCarlosweatheredthestormingoodshape.
Don
lostconsiderableweight.Hehadneverbeforebeenleftwithhobbled
feettoshiftforhimselfinaprolongedstormofrain,sleetandsnow.
Hehadcuthimselfuponbrush,andaltogetherhadfaredpoorly.He
showedplainlythathehadbeenneglected.DonwastheonlyhorseI
had
everknownofthatdidnotwelcomethewildernessand
companionshipwith
hiskind.

Werestedthefollowingday,andonthenextwepackedandstarted

367
back
toDudeCreek.Itwasacold,raw,bitterday,withagalefromthe
north,suchadayasIcouldneverhaveenduredhadInotbecome
hardened.AsitwasIalmostenjoyedwindandcold.Whata
transformationinthewoods!Thelittlelakeswereallfrozenover;
pines,moss,grasswerewhitewithfrost.Theseardayshadcome.Not
a
leafshowedintheaspenandmaplethickets.Thescruboakswere
shaggy
andragged,grayastherocks.Fromtherimtheslopeslookedsteely
and
dark,thinnedout,showingtherocksandslides.

WhenwereachedouroldcampinBarberShopCanyonwewereall
gladto
seeHaughtslostburrowaitingforusthere.Notascratchshowedon
theshaggylopearedlittlebeast.Haughtforonceunhobbledaburro
and
setitfreewithoutapartingkick.Nielsentoohadobservedthis
omissiononHaughtspart.Nielsenwasadesertmanandheknew
burros.
Hesaidprospectorswereinclinedtoshowaffectionforburrosby
sundry
cuffsandkicks.AndNielsentoldmeastoryaboutHaught.Itseemed
the
bearhunterwasnotedforthathabitofkickingburros.Sometimeshe
was
infunandsometimes,whenburroswereobstinate,hewasinearnest.
Upononeoccasionabigburrostayedawayfromcampquitealong
timelongenoughtoincurHaughtsdispleasure.Heneededthe
burroand
couldnotfindit,andallhecoulddowastohuntforit.Upon
returningtocamptherestoodthebiggrayburro,lazyandfat,justas
ifhehadbeenperfectlywellbehaved.Haughtputahalteronthe
burro,

368
usingstronglanguagethewhile,andthenheproceededtoexercise
his
habitofkickingburros.Hekickedthisoneuntilitsfatbellygave
forthsoundsexceedinglylikeabassdrum.WhenHaughthadended
his
exercisehetieduptheburro.Presentlyamancamerunninginto
Haughtscamp.Heappearedalarmed.Hewaswetandpanting.
Haught
recognizedhimasaminerfromaminenearby.HeyHaught,panted
the
miner,hevyouseenyourgrayburrothetbigonewithwhite
face?

Shore,thereheis,repliedHaught.Sonofagunjestrustledhome.

Theminerappearedimmenselyrelieved.Helookedandlookedatthe
gray
burroasiftomakesureitwasthere,inthesolidflesh,areally
tangibleobject.Thenhesaid:Wewasallafearedyoudkickthe
stuffinsoutofhim!...Notanhouragohewasoveratthemine,anhe
atefivesticksofdynamite!Fivesticks!ForLordssakehandlehim
gently!

Haughtturnedpaleandsuddenlysatdown.Ahuh!wasallhesaid.
But
hehadastrangehuntedlook.Andnotforalongtimedidheever
again
kickaburro!

*****

HuntingconditionsatDudeCreekhadchangedgreatlytoourbenefit.
The
trappershadpulledupstakesandgonetosomeothersectionofthe
country.Therewasnotahuntingpartywithinfifteenmilesofour

369
camp.
Leavesandacornswerealldown;trailsweresoftandeasytotravel;
no
dustroseonthesouthernslopes;thedayswerecoldandbright;in
everypocketandravinetherewaswaterforthedogs;fromanystand
we
couldseeintotheshaggythicketswherebeforeallwecouldseewasa
blazeofcolor.

InthreedayswedrovePylesCanyon,DudeCreek,andthesmall
adjoiningcanyons,chasinginallninebears,noneofwhichran
anywhere
nearR.C.orme.OldDangaveoutandhadtoresteveryotherday.So
thegloomagainbegantosettlethickoverthehopesofmyfaithful
friends.Longsince,asin1918,Ihadgivenupexpectationsofbagging
abearorabuck.ForR.C.,however,myhopesstillheldgood.Atleast
Ididnotgiveupforhim.Buthesharedsomewhatthefeelingsofthe
men.Stillheworkedharderthanever,abandoningtheideaofwaiting
on
oneofthehighstands,andtooktotheslopesundertherimwherehe
toileddownandupalldaylong.Itpleasedmetolearn,presently,that
thisactivity,strenuousasitwas,becameasourceofdelighttohim.
Howdifferentsuchtoilwasfromwaitingandwatchingontherim!

OnNovemberfirst,abittercoldmorning,withiceinthebrightair,we
wentbacktoPylesCanyon,andfourofuswentdownwithEddand
the
hounds.Wehadseveralchases,andaboutthemiddleoftheforenoon
I
foundmyselfalone,makingtracksforthesaddleoverlookingBear
Canyon.Alongthesouthsideoftheslope,inthestillairthesunwas
warm,butwhenIgotupontothesaddle,inanexposedplace,the
wind
soonchilledmethrough.IwouldkeepmystanduntilInearlyfroze,
thenIhadtogoaroundtothesunnyshelteredsideandwarmup.The

370
houndsfinallygotwithinhearingagain,andeventuallyappearedto
be
inBearCanyon,towardthemouth.IdecidedIoughttogoroundthe
ridgeontheeastsideandseeifIcouldhearbetter.AccordinglyIset
off,andthehardgoingoverthesunnyslopewasjustwhatIneeded.
WhenIreachedtheendoftheridge,underthegreatdome,Iheard
the
houndsbelowme,somewhattomyleft.Runningandplowingdown
through
thebrushIgainedtheedgeofthebluff,justintimetoseesomeof
thehoundspassingon.Theyhadrunabearthroughthatthicket,and
if
IhadbeentheresoonerIwouldhavebeenfortunate.Buttoolate!I
workedaroundtheheadofthiscanyonandacrossawide
promontory.
AgainIheardthehoundsrightunderme.Theycamenearer,andsoon
I
heardrollingrocksandcrackingbrush,whichsoundsIbelievedwere
madebyabear.AfterawhileIespiedOldTomandRockworkingup
the
canyononatrail.ThenIwassureIwouldgetashot.Presently,
however,OldTomleftthetrailandstartedback.Rockcameon,
climbed
theridge,andhearingmecallhecametome.Iwentovertotheplace
wherehehadclimbedoutandfoundanenormousbeartrackpointing
in
thedirectionthehoundshadcome.Theyhadbacktrailedhim.Rock
went
backtojoinOldTom.Someofthepackwerebayingatagreatratein
themouthofthenextcanyon.Butanimpassablecliffpreventedme
from
workingaroundtothatpoint.SoIhadtoaddressmyselftothelong
steepclimbupward.IhadnotgonefarwhenIcrossedthehugebear
trackthatRockandOldTomhadgivenup.Thistrackwassixinches
wide

371
andtenincheslong.Thebearthathadmadeithadcomedownthis
very
morningfromovertheridgeeastofBearCanyon.Itrailedhimupthis
ridge,overthesteepestandroughestandwildestpartofit,marveling
attheenormousstepsandjumpshemade,andatthesagacitywhich
causedhimtochoosethisrouteinsteadofthesaddletrailwhereIhad
waitedsolong.Histrackledupnearlytotherimandprovedhowhe
had
climbedoverthemostruggedbreakintheridge.Indeedhewasone
of
thewiseoldscoundrels.WhenIreachedcampIlearnedthatSueand
severalmoreofthehoundshadheldabearforsometimeinthebox
of
thecanyonjustbeyondwhereIhadtogiveup.EddandNielsenwere
acrossthiscanyon,unabletogofarther,andthenyelledthemselves
hoarse,tryingtocallsomeofus.IaskedEddifhesawthebear.Sure
did,repliedEdd.Oneofthemlong,lean,hungrycinnamons.Ihad
to
laugh,andtoldhownearIhadcometomeetingabearthatwasshort,
fat,andheavy:OneoftheoldJasperscoundrels!

Thatnightatdarkthewindstillblewagale,andseemedmorebitterly
cold.Wehuggedthecampfire.Myeyessmartedfromthesmokeand
my
facegrewblack.BeforeIwenttobedItoastedmyselfsothoroughly
thatmyclothesactuallyburnedmeasIlaydown.Buttheyheatedthe
blanketsandthatmademybedsnugandsoonIwasinthelandof
dreams.
DuringthenightIawoke.Thewindhadlulled.Thecanopyabove
was
clear,cold,starry,beautiful.Whenwerolledoutthemercuryshowed
tenabovezero.Perhapslookingatthethermometermadeusfeel
colder,
butinanyeventwewouldhavehadtomoveabouttokeepwarm.I
builta

372
fireandmyhandswereblocksoficewhenIgottheblazestirring.

Thatday,sokeenandbright,sowonderfulwithitsclarityof
atmosphereandthebreathofwinterthroughthepines,promisedto
beas
excitingasitwasbeautiful.MaybethisdayR.C.wouldbagabear!

Whenwereachedtherimthesunrisewasjustflushingthepurple
basin,
floodingwithexquisitegoldandroselighttheslumberousshadows.
What
agloriouswildernesstogreettheeyeatsunrise!Isufferedapangto
realizewhatmenmissedwhatIhadtomisssomanywonderful
mornings.

Wehadmadeourplan.Thehoundshadleftabearinthesecond
canyon
eastofDude.Eddstarteddown.CoppleandTakahashifollowedto
hugthe
lowerslopes.NielsenandHaughtandGeorgeheldtotherimtoride
east
incasethehoundschasedabearthatway.AndR.C.andIweretotry
to
climboutanddownathinrockcrestedridgewhich,sofarasHaught
knew,noonehadeverbeenon.

Lookedatfromabovethisridgewasindeedabeautifulandrugged
backboneofrock,slopingfromtherim,extendingfaroutanddown
a
verynarrowknifeedgeextendedpromontory,greenwithcedarand
pine,
yellowandgraywithitscragsandrocks.Acraggypointcomparable
to
someofthoseintheGrandCanyon!Wehadtostudyawaytoget
across

373
thefirstdeepfissures,andeventuallydescendedfarunderthecrest
andclimbedback.Itwasdesperatelyhardwork,forwehadsolittle
time.R.C.wastobeatthemiddleofthatridgeandIattheendinan
hour.LikeTrojansweworked.Someslipperypineneedleslopeswe
hadto
runacross,forlightquickstepsweretheonlymeansofsafetravel.
Andthatwasnotsafe!Whenwesurmountedtothecrestwefounda
jumble
ofweatheredrocksreadytoslidedownoneitherside.Slabs,
pyramids,
columns,shale,rocksofallshapesexceptround,laytopplingalong
the
heavedridge.Itseemedthewholeridgewasreadytothunderdown
into
theabyss.Halfamiledownandoutfromtherimwefeltlost,
marooned.
Buttherewassomethingsplendidlythrillinginourconquestofthat
narrowupflungedgeofmountain.TwiceR.C.thoughtwewould
haveto
abandonfurtherprogress,butIfoundwaystogoon.Howlonelyand
wild
outthere!NofootsaveanIndianshadevertrodthosegrayrocksor
brownmatsofpineneedles.

BeforewereachedthediporsaddlewhereR.C.wastomakehisstand
the
houndsopenedupfarbelow.Themorningwasperfectlystill,an
unusual
occurrencetherealongtherim.Whatwildmusic!ThenEddshorn
pealed
out,ringingmelody,alongblastkeenandclear,tellingusabovethat
hehadstartedabear.Thatmadeushurry.Wearrivedattheheadof
an
inclineleadingdowntoR.C.sstand.Asluckwouldhaveittheplace
wasidealforabear,butriskyforahunter.Abearcouldcomefour

374
wayswithoutbeingseenuntilhewascloseenoughtokillaman.We
hurriedon.Atthesaddletherewasabroadbeartrailwithseveral
othertrailsleadingintoit.SuddenlyR.C.haltedmewithawarning
finger.Listen!

Iheardafaintclearrifleshot.Thenanother,andafainteryell.We
stoodthereandcountedelevenmoreshots.Thenthebayofthe
hounds
seemedtogrowcloser.Wehadlittletimetopickandchoosestands.I
hadyettoreachtheendoftheridgeataskrequiringsevenleague
boots.ButItooktimetochoosethebestpossiblestandforR.C.and
thatwasonewhereabearapproachingfromonlytheeastalong
underthe
ridgecouldsurprisehim.Inbadplaceslikethiswealwaystriedto
haveourmindsmadeupwhattodoandwheretogetincaseofbeing
chargedbyawoundedgrizzly.Inthisinstancetherewasnotarockor
a
treenearathand.R.C.youllhavetostandyourgroundandkillhim,
thatsall,Ideclared,grimly.Butitsquiet.Youcanhearabear
coming.Ifyoudohearonewaitandmakesureyourfirstshotlets
him
down.

Dontworry.Icouldhearasquirrelcomingoverthisground,
replied
R.C.

ThenIwenton,notexactlyateaseinmind,butstirredandthrilledto
thekeenchargedatmosphere.Ihadtogoaroundunderthebaseofa
rockyledge,overroughground.PresentlyIdroppedintoabeartrail,
welltrodden.Ifollowedittoacornerofcliffwhereitwentdown.
ThenIkeptonoverlooserockandbareearthwasheddeepinruts.I
had
toleapthese.PerhapsintenminutesIhadtraveledaquarterofamile
orless.Then_spang_!R.C.srifleshothaltedme.Soclearandsharp,

375
soclose,sostartling!Iwasthrilled,delightedhehadgottena
shot.Iwantedtoyellmypleasure.Mybloodwarmedandmynerves
tingled.Swiftlymythoughtsranbadluckwasnothingamanhad
only
tostickatathingwhatafine,sharp,wonderfuldayforadventure!
Howthehoundsbayed!HadR.C.sightedabearsomewherebelow?
Suddenly
thestillairsplit_spang_!R.C.ssecondshotgavemeashock.My
breastcontracted.Istartedback.Supposeitwasagrizzlyonthat
badside!Imuttered._Spang_!...Ibegantorun.Agreatsweeping
wave
ofemotionchargedoverme,swellingallmyveinstothebursting
point.
_Spang_!Myheartcametomythroat.Leapingtheruts,boundinglike
a
sheepfromrocktorock,Icoveredmybacktracks.Allinsideme
seemed
toflutter,yetIfeltcoldandhardasickeningsenseofreproachthat
Ihadleftmybrotherinabadposition._Spang_!Hisfifthandlast
shotfollowedswiftlyafterthefourthtooswifttobeaccurate.So
hurriedlyamanwouldactinclosequarters.R.C.nowhadanempty
rifle!...LikeaflashIcrossedthatslopeleadingtotherocks,and
torearoundthecliffatsuchspeedthatitwasawonderIdidnotpitch
downandbreakmyneck.HowlonghowterriblylongIseemedin
reaching
thecornerofcliff!ThenIplungedtoahaltwitheyesdarting
everywhere.

R.C.wasnotinsight.Thesteepcurvedneckofslopeseemedallrocks,
alltrees,allbrush.ThenIheardawildhoarsebawlandaloud
crashingofbrush.Mygazeswervedtoanopenspot.Apatchof
manzanita
seemedtoblurroundabigbear,standingup,fightingthebranches,
threshingandgrowling.ButwherewasR.C.?Fearfullymygaze
peered

376
nearandallaroundthiswoundedbear.Heythere!Iyelledwithall
my
might.

R.C.sanswerwasanother_spang_.Iheardthebullethitthebear.It
musthavegoneclearthroughhimforIsawbitsoffurandmanzanita
fly.Thebearplungedoutofthebushesoutofmysight.Howhe
crashed
thebrushrolledtherocks!Ilistened.Downanddownhecrashed.
Then
thesoundchangedsomewhat.Hewasrolling.Atlastthatthumping
sound
ceased,andafterittherollofrocks.

Areyouallright?Ishouted.

Then,afteramomentthatmademebreathless,IheardR.C.laugh,a
littleshakily.Suream....Didyouseehim?

Yes.Ithinkhesyourbear.

Imafraidhesgotaway.Thehoundstookanotherbeardownthe
canyon.
Whatllwedo?

Comeondown,Isaid.

Fiftyyardsormoredowntheslopewemet.Ishowedhimagreat
splotch
ofbloodonaflatstone.Wellfindhimnotfardown,Isaid.Sowe
slidandcrawled,andheldtobrushandrocks,followingthatbloody
trailuntilwecametoaledge.FromthereIespiedthebearlodged
againstamanzanitabush.Helayonhisback,allfourpawsextended,
andhewasmotionless.R.C.andIsatdownrightthereontheledge.

377
Looksprettybigblackandbrownmostlybrown,Isaid.Imglad,
oldman,youstuckitout.

Big!...exclaimedR.C.withthatsamepeculiarlittlelaugh.He
doesntlookbignow.Butuptherehelookedlikeahill....Whatdoyou
think?Hecameupthatverywayyoutoldmetolookoutfor.AndifI
hadnthadearshedgotrightonme.Asitwas,whenIheardlittle
rollingstones,andthensawhim,hewasalmostonalevelwithme.
My
nervewasallright.IknewIhadhim.AndImadesureofmyfirst
shot.
Iknockedhimflat.Buthegotupletoutanawfulsnarlandplunged
myway.IcantsayIknowhechargedme.Onlyitwasjustthesame
as
ifhehad!...Iknockedhimdownagainandthistimehebegantokick
andjumpdowntheslope.Thatwasmybestshot.ThinkImissedhim
the
nextthree.YouseeIhadtimetogetshaky.Ifhehadkeptcomingat
megoodnight!...Ihadtroubleloading.ButwhenIgotreadyagainI
randownandsawhiminthatbush.Wasntfarfromhimthen.When
helet
outthatbawlhesawme.Idontknowmuchaboutbears,butIknow
he
wantedtogetatme.AndImsureofwhathedhavedone....Ididnt
missmylastshot.

Wesatthereawhilelonger,slowlycalmingdown.Wonderfulindeed
had
beensomeofthemomentsofthrill,buttherehadbeenothersnot
conducivetohappiness.Whydomenyearnforadventureinwild
moments
andregrettherisksandspilledbloodafterward?

IX

378

Thehoundsenjoyedawellearnedrestthenextday.R.C.andI,
behind
Haughtsback,fedthemalltheycouldeat.Theoldhunterhadafixed
ideathatdogsshouldbekeptleanandhungrysotheywouldrun
bears
thebetter.Perhapshewasright.OnlyIcouldnotwithstandOldDan
and
OldTomastheylimpedtome,beggingandwhining.Yetnoteven
sore
feetandhungercouldrobthesegrandoldhoundsoftheirdignity.For
anhourthatmorningIsatbesidetheminasunnyspot.

IntheafternoonCoppletookmeonalastdeerhuntforthattrip.We
rodedownthecanyonamile,andclimbedoutonthewestslope.
Haught
haddescribedthiscountryasawolftotravel.Heusedthatwordto
designateanythingparticularlytough.Wefoundtheridgecovered
witha
denseforest,inplacesamattedjungleofpinesaplings.Thesethickets
wereimpenetrable.Heavysnowshadbentthepinessothattheygrew
at
anangle.Wefounditnecessarytoskirtthesethickets,andatthat,
sometimeshadtocutourwaythroughwithourlittleaxes.Hunting
was
scarcelypossibleundersuchconditions.Stillwedidnotseeanydeer
tracks.

Eventuallywecrossedthisridge,oratleastthejunglepartofit,and
gotlowerdownintohollowsandswalesfullofaspens.Copple
recognized
countryhehadhuntedbefore.Wemadeourwayupalongshallow
hollow
thatendedinanopenwherelaytheremainsofanoldlogcabin,and
corrals.Fromunderabluffbubbledaclearbeautifulspring.Copple

379
lookedallaroundslowly,withstrangeexpression,andatlast,
dismountingheknelttodrinkofthespring.

Ahhgood!heexclaimed,afteradeepdraught.Getdownan
drink.
Snowwateranitnevergoesdry.

Indeeditwassocolditmademyteethache,andsopureandsweet
that
IdrankuntilIcouldholdnomore.Deerandcatandbeartracks
showed
alongthemarginofcleansand.Lowerdownwerefreshturkeytracks.
A
lonelyspringinthewoodsvisitedbywildgame!Thisplacewas
singularlypicturesqueandbeautiful.Thepurestdrinkingwateris
found
inwildforestoronmountains.Men,cities,civilizationcontaminate
watersthatarenotisolated.

CoppletoldmeamannamedMitchellhadlivedinthatlonelyplace
thirtyyearsago.Copple,asaboy,hadworkedforhimhadridden
wild
bronchosandropedwildsteersinthatopen,manyandmanyaday.
SomethingofunconsciouspathosshowedinCoppleseyesashe
gazed
around,andinhisvoice.Weallheartheechoingfootstepsofthepast
years!InthosedaysCopplesaidtheranchwasoverrunbywildgame,
and
wildhorsestoo.

Werodeonwestward,tocomeoutatlengthontherimofa
magnificent
canyon.ItwasthewidestanddeepestandwildestgorgeIhadcome
acrossinthiscountry.Sodeepthatonlyafaintroarofrunningwater
reachedourears!Theslopesweretoosteepforman,letaloneahorse;

380
andthehugecliffsandgiantsprucesgaveitasingularlyrugged
appearance.Wesawdeerontheoppositeslope.Coppleledalongthe
edge,searchingfortracesofanoldtrailwhereMitchellusedtodrive
cattleacross.Wedidnotfindatrail,butwefoundaplacewhere
Copplesaidoneusedtobe.Icouldseenosignsofit.Hereleadinghis
horsewithonehandandwieldinghislittleaxewiththeotherCopple
starteddown.FormypartIfoundgoingdownremarkablyeasy.The
only
troubleIhadwastoholdon,soIwouldnotgodownlikeaflash.
Stockings,myhorse,hadinafewweeksbecomeasplendidtravelerin
theforest.Hehadlearnedtorestrainhisspiritandusehis
intelligence.WhereverIledhewouldgoandthatwithoutanyfear.
Thereissomethingfineinconstantassociationwithanintelligent
horseundersuchcircumstances.InbadplacesStockingsbracedhis
forefeet,satonhishaunches,andslid,sometimesmakingmejumpto
get
outofhisway.Wefoundthecanyonbedanarrownotch,darklyrich
and
green,fullofthemelodyofwildbirdsandmurmuringbrook,with
huge
rocksallstainedgoldandrusset,andgrassashighasourknees.Frost
stilllingeredinthedark,cool,shadyretreat;andwherethesun
struckanarrowstripofthegorgetherewaswarm,sweet,drybreath
of
theforest.Butforthemostpart,downhereallwasdamp,dank,cool
shadowwheresunshineneverreached,andwherethesmellswereof
dead
leavesandwetmossandfernsandblackrichearth.

Impossiblewefoundittoascendtheotherslopewherewehadseen
the
deer,sowehadtorideupthecanyon,amattergreatlytomyliking.
CopplethoughtIwashuntingwithhim,butreally,excepttofollow
him,
Ididnotthinkofthemeaningofhisslowwaryadvance.Onlyafew

381
more
dayshadItoroamthepinescentedforest.Thatrideupthisdeep
gorge
wasrichinsensation.Sunandskyandbreezeandforestencompassed
me.
Thewildernesswasallaboutme;andIregrettedwhenthecanyon
lost
itssplendidruggedness,andbecameliketheothersIhadtraversed,
and
atlastgrewtobeashallowgrassyravine,withpatchesofgrayaspens
alongthetinybrook.

Asweclimbedoutoncemore,thistimeintoanopen,beautifulpine
forest,withlittlepatchesofgreenthicket,Iseemedtohavebeen
druggedbythefragranceandthecolorandthebeautyofthewild.For
whenCopplecalledlowandsharp:Hist!Istared
uncomprehendinglyat
him.

Deer!hewhispered,pointing.Getoffansmokeemup!

Somethingshotthroughmeadifferentkindofthrill.Aheadinthe
open
Isawgray,graceful,wildformstrottingaway.LikeaflashIslidoff
myhorseandjerkedoutmyrifle.Iranforwardafewsteps.Thedeer
hadhaltedweregazingatuswithheadsupandearshigh.Whata
wild
beautifulpicture!AsIraisedmyrifletheyseemedtomoveandvanish
inthegreen.Thehunterinme,rousedatlast,anathematizedmy
miserableluck.Iranaheadanotherfewsteps,tobehaltedbyCopple.
Buck!hecalled,sharply.Hurry!Then,fartheronintheopen,out
inthesunlight,Isawanoblestag,moving,trottingtowardus.Keen,
hard,fierceinmyintensity,Ialignedthesightsuponhisbreastand
fired.Straightforwardandhighhebounded,tofallwithaheavy
thud.

382

Coppleshorse,startledbymyshot,begantosnortandplunge.Good
shot,yelledCopple.Hesourmeat.

WhatpossessedmeIknewnot,butIranaheadofCopple.Myeyes
searchedavidlythebushdottedgroundformyquarry.Theriflefelt
hot
inmytightgrip.Allinsidemewasatumulteager,keen,wild
excitement.Thegreatpines,thegreenaislesleadingawayintothe
woods,theshadowsunderthethickets,thepinepitchtangoftheair,
thelonelinessofthatlonelyforestalltheseseemedfamiliar,sweet,
beautiful,thingsminealone,thingsseenandsmelledandfeltbefore,
things...ThensuddenlyIranrightuponmydeer,lyingmotionless,
deadIthought.Heappearedfairlylarge,withthreepointantlers.I
heardCoppleshorsethuddingthesoftearthbehindme,andIyelled:
I
gothim,Ben.Thatwasamomentofexultation.

Itendedsuddenly.Somethinghaltedme.Mybuck,nowscarcely
fifteen
feetfromme,begantoshakeandstruggle.Heraisedhishead,
uttering
achokinggasp.Iheardtheflutterofbloodinhisthroat.Heraised
himselfonhisfrontfeetandliftedhisheadhigh,higher,untilhis
nosepointedskywardandhisantlerslaybackuponhisshoulders.
Thena
strongconvulsionshookhim.Iheardtheshudderingwrestleofhis
whole
body.Iheardthegurgleandflowofblood.Sawthesmokeoffresh
blood
andsmelledit!Isawasmallredspotinhisgraybreastwheremy
bullethadstruck.Isawagreatbloodygapingholeonhisrumpwhere
the.30Govtexpandingbullethadcomeout.Fromendtoendthat
bullet
hadtorn!Yethewasnotdead.Strainingtoriseagain!

383

Isaw,feltallthisinoneflashinginstant.Andasswiftlymyspirit
changed.WhatImighthavedoneIneverknew,butmostlikelyI
would
haveshothimthroughthebrain.Onlyasuddenactionofthestag
paralyzedallmyforce.Heloweredhishead.Hesawme.Anddying,
with
lungsandheartandbowelsshottoshreds,heedgedhisstifffrontfeet
towardme,hedraggedhisafterquarters,heslid,heflopped,he
skitteredconvulsivelyatme.Nofearintheblack,distended,wild
eyes!

Onlyhate,onlyterrible,wild,unquenchablespirittolivelongenough
tokillme!Isawit,Hemeanttokillme.Howmagnificent,how
horrible
thiswildcourage!Myeyesseemedriveteduponhim,ashecame
closer,
closer.Hegasped.Bloodsputteredfromhisthroat.Butmoreterrible
thanagony,thanimminentdeathwasthespiritofthiswildbeastto
slayitsenemy.Inchbyinchheskiddedclosertome,witha
convulsive
quiveringawfultosee.Noveilofthepast,noscaleofcivilization
betweenbeastandmanthen!Enemiesasoldastheearth!Ihadshot
him
toeat,andhewouldkillmebeforehedied.Formethemomentwas
monstrous.NohunterwasIthen,butamanstrickenbythespiritand
mysteryoflife,bytheagonyandterrorofdeath,bytheawfulstrange
sensethatthisstagwouldkillme.

ButCopplegallopedup,anddrawinghisrevolver,heshotthedeer
throughthehead.Itfellinaheap.

Dontevergoclosetoacrippleddeer,admonishedmycomrade,as
he
leapedoffhishorse.Isawafellowoncethatwasnearkilledbya

384
buckhedtakenfordead....Strangethewaythisbuckhalfstoodup.
Reckonhemeantbad,buthewasallin.Youhithimplumbcenter.

Yes,Ben,itwasstrange,Ireplied,soberly.IcaughtCoppleskeen
darkglancestudyingme.Whenyouopenhimupseewhatmy
bulletdid,
willyou?

Allright.Helpmehanghimtoasnaghere,returnedCopple,ashe
untiedhislasso.

WhenwegotthedeerstrungupIwentoffintothewoods,andsaton
a
log,andcontendedwithaqueersortofsicknessuntilitpassedaway.
ButitleftastateofmindthatIknewwouldrequiremetoprobeinto
myself,andtrytounderstandonceandforalltimethisbloodthirsy
tendencyofmantokill.Itwouldforcemetotrytoanalyzethe
psychologyofhunting.UponmyreturntoCoppleIfoundhehadthe
buck
readytoloaduponhishorse.Hishandswerebrightred.Hewas
wiping
hishuntingknifeonabunchofgreenpineneedles.

That150grainsoftnosebulletissomeexecutioner,hedeclared,
forcefully.Yourbulletmushroomedjustafteritwentintohisbreast.
Ittorehislungtopieces,cutopenhisheart,madeamessofkidneys
anpaunch,anbrokehisspine....Anlookatthisholewhereitcame
out!

IhelpedCoppleheavetheloadonhissaddleandtieitsecurely,andI
gotmyhandsredatthejob,butIdidnotreallylookatthebuck
again.AnduponourwaybacktocampIrodeintheleadalltheway.
We
reachedcampbeforesunset,whereIhadtoendurethefelicitationsof
R.C.andmycomrades,allofwhomweredelightedthatatlastIhad

385
gottenabuck.Takahashismiledalloverhisbroadbrownface.My
goodnish!Iawfulglad!Nicefatdeer!

ThatnightIlayawakealongtime,andthoughawareofthemoanof
the
windinthepinesandthetinkleofthebrook,andthemelancholyhoot
ofanowl,andlaterthestill,sad,blacksilenceofthemidnight
hours,Ireallyhadnopleasureinthem.Mymindwasactive.

Boysareinherentlycruel.Thegamestheyplay,atleastthosethey
invent,instinctivelypartakeofsomeelementofbrutenature.They
chase,theycapture,theyimprison,theytorture,andtheykill.No
secretrendezvousofaboyspirategangeverfailedtobesoakedwith
imaginaryblood!Andwhatgroupofboyshavenotplayedatbeing
pirates?TheIndiangamesareworsescalping,withredhotcinders
thrownuponthebleedinghead,andtheterriblerunningofthe
gauntlet,
andburningatthestake.

Whatyoungsterhasnotmadewoodenknivestospillthebloodofhis
pretendedenemies?Littlegirlsplaywithdolls,andwithtoyhouses,
andalltheimplementsofmakingahome;butsweetanddearasthe
littleangelsaretheyloveaboysgame,andiftheycanthroughsome
luckyaccidentparticipateinoneitistoscreamandshudderandfight,
indeedlikethefemalesofthespecies.Nobreakherebetweenthese
littlemothersofdollbabiesandthebloodymothersoftheFrench
Revolution,orofdusky,naked,barbarianchildrenofaprimitiveday!

Boyslovethechase.Andthatchasedependsuponenvironment.For
want
ofwildgametheywillharryapoormiserabletomcatwithsticksand
stones.Ibelongedoncetoagangofyoungruffianswhochasedthe
neighborschickens,killedthemwithclubs,andcookedthemintin
cans,overahiddenfire.Boyslovenothingsomuchastochasea
squirrelorafrightenedlittlechipmunkbackandforthalongarail

386
fence.Theybrandishtheirsticks,runandyell,darttoandfro,like
youngIndians.Theyrobbirdsnests,stealtheeggs,piercethemand
blowthem.Theycapturetheyoungbirds,andarenotabovekilling
the
parentsthatflyfranticallytotherescue.Iknewofboyswhoground
capturedbirdstodeathonagrindstone.Whohasnotseenaboyfling
stonesatahelplesshoptoad?

Asboysgrowoldertotheageofreadingtheyselect,oratleastlove
best,thosestoriesofbloodshedandviolence.Stevensonwrotethat
boys
readforsomeelementofthebruteinstinctinthem.Histwo
wonderful
books_TreasureIsland_and_Kidnapped_arefulloffightandthe
killingofmen._RobinsonCrusoe_istheonlygreatboysbookIever
readthatdidnotoweitscharmtofighting.Butstilldidnotold
Crusoefighttoliveonhislonelyisland?Andthiswonderfultaleis
fullofhunting,andhasattheendthebattlewithcannibals.

Whenladsgrowuptheybecomehunters,almostwithoutexception,
at
leastinspiritifnotindeed.Earlydaysandenvironmentdecide
whetherornotamanbecomesahunter.InallmylifeIhavemetonly
twogrownmenwhodidnotcaretogoprowlingandhuntinginthe
woods
withagun.Anexceptionprovesagreatdeal,butallthesamemost
men,
whethertheyhaveachanceornot,lovetohunt.Hunters,therefore,
thereareofmanydegrees.Huntersofthelowlycottontailandthe
woodlandsquirrel;huntersofquail,woodcock,andgrouse;hunters
of
wildducksandgeese;huntersoffoxestheredcoatedEnglishand
the
homespuncladAmerican;hunterswhichisakindernamefor
trappersof

387
beaver,marten,otter,mink,allthefurredanimals;huntersofdeer,
cat,wolf,bear,antelope,elk,moose,caribou;huntersofthebarren
landswheretheiceiskingandwheretherearepolarbears,white
foxes,muskox,walrus.Huntersofdifferentanimalsofdifferent
countries.Africanhuntersforlion,rhinoceros,elephant,buffalo,
eland,hartebeest,giraffe,andahundredspeciesmadeknowntoall
the
worldbysuchclassicalsportsmenasSelous,Roosevelt,Stewart
Edward
White.

Buttheyareallhuntersandtheirgameisthedeadlychaseintheopen
orthewild.Therearehunterswhohateaction,whohatetowalkand
climbandtoilandwearthemselvesouttogetashot.Suchmenare
huntersstill,butstillnotmen!Therearehunterswhohavegame
driven
uptothem.IheardastorytoldbyanofficerwhomIbelieve.Inthe
earlydaysofthewarhefoundhimselfsomewhereontheborder
between
AustriaandGermany.Hewasinvitedtoahuntbypersonagesofhigh
degree.Theymotoredtoasequesteredpalaceintheforest,andnext
day
motoredtoashootinglodge.Atdaylighthewascalled,andtakento
the
edgeofaforestandstationedinanopenglade.Hisstandwasan
upholstereddivanplacedhighintheforksofatree.Hisguidetold
him
thatprettysoonadoewouldcomeoutoftheforest.Buthewasnotto
shootit.Infifteenminutesalamebuckwouldcomeout.Buthewas
not
toshootthatoneeither.Intenmoreminutesanotherbuckwould
come
out,andthisthirddeerhewastokill.Myinformanttoldmethiswas
allveryseriouslymeant.Thegungivenhimwaslargeenoughin
calibre

388
tokillanelephant.Hewalkedupthestepstothecomfortabledivan
and
settledhimselftoawaitevents.Thedoetrottedoutexactlyon
schedule
time.Sodidthelamebuck.Theycamefromthewoodsandwerenot
frightened.Thethirddeer,alargebuck,wasafewmomentslate
three
minutestobeexact.AccordingtoinstructionstheAmericankilledthis
buckamatterthattooksomenervehesaid,forthebuckwalkedout
likeacow.Thatnightabigsupperwasgivenintheguestshonor.He
hadtoeatcertainpartsofthebuckhehadkilled,anddrinkflagonsof
wine.ThiskindofhuntingmustbepeculiarlyGermanorAustrian,
and
illustratesthepeculiarhuntingwaysofmen.

Acelebratedbearhunterandguideofthenorthwesttoldmethatfor
twentyyearshehadbeentakingeasternministerspreachersofthe
gospelonhuntingtripsintothewild.Heassuredmethatofallthe
bloodymurdererswadersingore,asheexpressedittheseteachers
of
thegospelweretheworst.Themomenttheygotoutintothewild
they
wantedtokill,kill,kill.Heaverredtheirnaturesseemedutterlyto
change.

Inreadingthebooksofhuntersandinlisteningtotheirtalksat
CampfireClubdinnersIhavealwaysbeenstruckwiththeexpression
of
whatthesehuntersfelt,whattheythoughttheygotoutofhunting.
The
changefromcitytotheopenwilderness;thedifferencebetweennoise,
tumult,dirt,foulair,andthesilence,thequiet,thecleannessand
purity;thesweetbreathofGodscountryassomanycalledit;the
beautyofforestandmountain;thewildnessofridgeandvalley;the
wonderofwildanimalsintheirnativehaunts;andthezest,thejoy,

389
theexcitement,themagnificentthrillofthestalkandthechase.No
oneofthemeverdweltuponthekill!Itwasmentioned,asaresult,an
end,aconsummation.Howstrangethathuntersbelievedthesewere
the
attractionsofthechase!Theyfeltthem,tobesure,insomedegree,or
theywouldnotrememberthem.Buttheyneverrealizedthatthese
sensationswereonlyincidentaltohunting.

Mentakelongrides,hundredsandthousandsofmiles,tohunt.They
endurehardships,liveincampswithabsolutejoy.Theystalkthrough
theforest,climbthecraggypeaks,laborasgiantsinthebuildingof
thepyramids,allwithatightclutchonadeadlyrifle.Theyarekeen,
intent,strained,quiveringlyeagerallwithatightclutchonadeadly
rifle.IfhuntersthinkwhileonastalkwhichmatterIdoubt
considerablytheythinkaboutthelayoftheland,ortheaspectofit,
ofthehabitsandpossibilitiesoftheirquarry,oftheirlaborand
chances,andparticularlyofthevagueunrealizedsenseofcomfort,
pleasure,satisfactioninthemoment.Tightmuscles,alerteyes,
stealthysteps,stalkandrunandcrawlandclimb,breathlessness,a
hot
closepressedchest,thrillonthrill,andsheerburstingriotofnerve
andveinthesearetheordinarysensationsandactionsofahunter.
No
ascenttooloftynodescenttooperilousforhimthen,ifheisaman
aswellasahunter!

TaketheBrazilianhunterofthejungle.Heissolitary.Heis
sufficienttohimself.Heisasurvivalofthefittest.Thenumberof
histribearefew.Natureseestothat.Buthemusteat,andtherefore
hehunts.Hespearsfishandhekillsbirdsandbeastswithablow
gun.
Hehuntstolive.Butthemannerofhisaction,thoughmoreskilful,is
thesameasanyhunters.Likewisehissensations,perhapsmorevivid
becausehuntingforhimisamatteroflifeordeath.TaketheGaucho
of

390
PatagoniathesilentlonelyIndianhunterofthePampas.Hehunts
with
a_bola_,athinthongorstringateachendofwhichisaheavy
leathercoveredballofstoneoriron.ThistheGauchohurlsthrough
the
airattheneckorlegsofhisquarry.Theballsflyroundthethong
bindstightitisadeadlyweapon.Theuserofitridesandstalksand
seesandthrowsandfeelsthesameasanyotherhunter.Timeand
place,
weaponandgamehavelittletodowithanydifferencesinhunters.

Uptothis1919huntingtripinthewildsIhadalwaysmarveledatthe
factthatnaturalistsandbiologistshatesportsmen.Nothunterslike
theYellowKnifeIndians,orthesnakeeatingBushmenofAustralia,
or
theTerradelFuegians,oreventhenativecountryrabbithuntersbut
thesocalledsportsmen.Naturalistsandbiologistshavesimply
learned
thetruthwhymenhunt,andthatwhenitisdoneinthenameof
sport,
orforsensation,itisadegeneratebusiness.Stevensonwrotebeautiful
wordsaboutthehunterhomefromthehill,butsofarasIcanfind
outheneverkilledanythinghimself.Hewasconcernedwiththe
romance
ofthethought,withalliteration,andthesingularcharmofthe
truthsunsetandtheendoftheday,thehuntersploddownthehill
to
thecottage,tothehomewherewifeandchildrenawaitedhim.Indeed
it
isabeautifultruth,andnotaltogetherinthepast,forthereare
stillfarmersandpioneers.

Huntingisasavageprimordialinstinctinheritedfromourancestors.
Itgoesbackthroughalltheagesofman,andfartherstilltotheage
whenmanwasnotman,buthairyape,orsomeotherbeastfrom

391
whichwe
aredescended.Tokillisintheverymarrowofourbones.Ifmanafter
hedevelopedintohumanstatehadtakentovegetabledietwhichhe
neverdidtakeheyetwouldhaveinheritedtheflesheatinginstincts
ofhisanimalforebears.Andnoinstinctiseverwhollyeradicated.But
manwasameateater.Bybrutestrength,bysagacity,byendurancehe
killedinordertogetthemeansofsubsistence.Ifhedidnotkillhe
starved.Anditisamatterofrecord,evendowntomoderntimes,that
manhasexistedbycannibalism.

Thecavemanstalkedfromhisholeunderacliff,boldlyforthwithhis
hugecluborstonemace.Perhapshestolehisneighborswoman,but
if
sohehadmorereasontohuntthanbeforehehadtofeedheraswell
as
himself.Thiscaveman,savagelydescended,savagelysurrounded,
must
havehadtohuntallthedaylighthoursandsurelyhadtofighttokill
hisfood,ortokeepitafterhekilledit.Long,longageswasthe
beingcalledcavemanindeveloping;morelongageshelivedonthe
earth,inthatdimdarkmysticpast;andjustaslongwerehis
descendantsgrowingintoanotherandhighertypeofbarbarian.But
they
andtheirchildrenandgrandchildren,andalltheirsuccessive,
innumerable,andvaryingdescendantshadtohuntmeatandeatmeat
to
live.

Thebrainofbarbarianmanwassmall,asshownbythesizeandshape
of
hisskull,butthereisnoreasontobelieveitsconstructionanduse
wereanydifferentfromtheuseofotherorganstheeyetosee
withtheeartohearwiththepalatetotastewith.Whateverthebrain
ofprimitivemanwasitheldatbirthunlimitedandinnumerable
instinctslikethoseofitsprogenitors;androundandsmoothin

392
babyhood,asitwas,itsurelygathereditssensations,oneafter
anotherinseparateandhabitualchannels,untilwhenmanhood
arrivedit
haditsconvolutions,itsfoldsandwrinkles.Andifinstinctand
tendencywereborninthebrainhowtrulymusttheybeapartof
bone,
tissue,blood.

Wecannotescapeourinheritance.Civilizationismerelyaveneer,a
thinskinnedpolishoverthesavageandcrudenature.Fear,anger,
lust,
thethreegreatprimalinstinctsarerestrained,buttheylive
powerfullyinthebreastofman.Selfpreservationisthefirstlawof
humanlife,andisincludedinfear.Fearofdeathisthefirst
instinct.Thenifforthousands,perhapsmillionsofyears,manhadto
huntbecauseofhisfearofdeath,hadtokillmeattosurviveconsider
theineradicableandpermanentnatureoftheinstinct.

Thesecretnowoftheinstinctivejoyandthrillandwildnessofthe
chaseliesclear.

Stealingthroughtheforestoralongthemountainslope,eyesroving,
earssensitivetoallvibrationsoftheair,noseaskeenasthatofa
hound,handstightonadeadlyrifle,weunconsciouslygoback.We
go
backtotheprimitive,tothesavagestateofman.Thereinliesthejoy.
Howsweet,vague,unrealthosesensationsofstrangefamiliaritywith
wildplacesweknowweneversawbefore!Butamillionyearsbefore
that
hourahairyancestorofoursfeltthesamewayinthesamekindofa
place,andinusthatinstinctsurvives.Thatisthesecretofthe
wonderfulstrangecharmofwildplaces,ofthebarrenrocksofthe
desertwilderness,ofthegreatwalledlonelycanyons.Somethingnow
in
ourblood,inourbonesoncedancedinmenwholivedtheninsimilar

393
places.Andlivedbyhunting!

Thechildisfathertotheman.Inthelightofthisinstincthoweasy
tounderstandhisboyishcruelty.Heistruetonature.Unlimitedand
infiniteinhisimaginationwhenhehuntswhetherwithhistoysor
withrealweapons.Ifheflingsastoneandkillsatoadheis
instinctivelykillingmeatforhishomeinthecave.Howlittle
differencebetweentheladandtheman!Foramanthemost
poignantly
exciting,themostthrillinglywildisthechasewhenheisweaponless,
whenherunsandkillshisquarrywithaclub.Herewehavethe
essence
ofthematter.Thehunterisproudestofhisachievementinwhichhe
has
nothadthehelpofdeadlyweapons.Unconsciouslyhewillbragand
glow
overthatconquestwhereinlaygreatestperiltohimwhenhehad
nothingbuthisnakedhands.Whatahotgushofbloodburstsover
him!
Hegoesbacktohisbarbarianstatewhenamanonlyfelt.Thesavage
livedinhissensations.Hesaw,heard,smelled,tasted,touched,but
seldomthought.Theearthy,theelementalofeyeandearandskin
surroundedhim.Whenthemangoesintothewildernesstochange
intoa
hunterthatsurvivingkinshipwiththesavagerevivesinhisbeing,
and
allunconsciouslydominateshimwithdrivingpassion.Passionitis
becauseforlonghehasbeenrestrainedinthepublichauntsofmen.
His
realnaturehasbeenhidden.Thehuntingofgameinhibitshis
thoughts.
Hefeelsonly.Heforgetshimself.Heseesthetrack,hehearsthe
stealthystep,hesmellsthewildscent;andhisblooddanceswiththe
danceoftheages.Thenheisakiller.Thentheagesrollback.Thenhe
isbrothertothesavage.Thenallunconsciouslyhelivesthechase,the

394
fight,thedeathdealingmomentastheywerelivedbyallhis
ancestors
downthroughthemistypast.

Whatthenshouldbetheattitudeofathoughtfulmantowardthis
liberationofaninstinctthatistosay,towardthegameorsportor
habitofhuntingtokill?NoteasilycouldIdecidethisformyself.
Afteralllifeisabattle.Eternallywearecompelledtofight.Ifwe
donotfight,ifwedonotkeepourbodiesstrong,supple,healthy,
soon
wesuccumbtosomegermorotherthatgetsaholdinourbloodor
lungs
andfightsforitslife,itsspecies,untilitkillsus.Fighttherefore
isabsolutelynecessarytolonglife,andAlas!eventuallythatfight
mustbelost.Thesavages,theBabylonians,thePersians,theGreeks
all
worshippedphysicalprowessinman.Manhood,strengththe
symbolsof
fight!Tobephysicallystrongandwellamanmustworkhard,with
frequentintervalsofchangeofexercise,andhemusteatmeat.Iam
not
agreatmeateater,butIdoubtifIcoulddomuchphysicallaboror
any
brainworkonavegetablediet.ThereforeIholditfairandmanlyto
go
onceayeartothewildernesstohunt.Letthathuntbecleanhardtoil,
ashardasIcanstand!Perhapsnaturecreatedtheloweranimalsfor
the
useofman.IfIhadbeenthecreatorIthinkIwouldhavemadeit
possibleforthesocalledhigheranimalmantoliveonair.

SomewhereIreadastrangeremarkablestoryaboutmonkeysand
priestsin
thejungleofIndia.Anoldorderofpriestshadfromtimeoutofmind
senttwooftheircomradesintothejungletolivewiththemonkeys,to

395
tamethem,feedthem,studythem,lovethem.Andtheseprieststold
an
incrediblestory,yetonethathauntedwithitspossibilitiesoftruth.
Afteralongtermofyearsinwhichonecertainpriesthadlivedwith
themonkeysandtheyhadlearnedtrulyhemeantthemnoharmand
only
lovedthem,atraremomentsanoldmonkeywouldcometohimand
weepand
weepinthemostterribleandtragicmanner.Thismonkeywantedto
tell
something,butcouldnotspeak.Butthepriestknewthatthemonkey
was
tryingtotellhimhowoncethemonkeypeoplehadbeenhumanlike
him.
Onlytheyhadretrogradedinthestrangescaleofevolution.Andthe
terribleweepingwasforlosslossofphysicalstature,ofspeech,
perhapsofsoul.

Whataprofoundandstunningidea!Doesevolutionworkbackward?
Could
natureinitsrelentlessinscrutabledesignfortheunattainable
perfectionhavedevelopedmanonlytostarthimbackwardtoward
thedim
ageswhencehesprang?Whoknows!Buteverymancanlovewild
animals.
Everymancanstudyandtrytounderstandtheintelligenceofhis
horse,
theloyaltyofhisdog.Andeveryhuntercanhuntlesswithhis
instinct,andmorewithanunderstandingofhisneeds,anda
considerationforthebeastsonlythecreatorknows.

Thelastdayofeverythingalwayscomes.Time,likethetide,waitsfor

396
noman.Anticipationisbeautiful,butitisbestandhappiesttoenjoy
thepresent.Livewhilewemay!

Onthislastdayofmyhuntwewereupalmostbeforeitwaslight
enough
tosee.Themorningstarshoneradiantinthedarkgraysky.Allthe
otherstarsseemeddimmedbyitsglory.Silentasagravewasthe
forest.Istartedafire,choppedwoodsovigorouslythatIawakened
Nielsenwhocameforthlikeaburlycaveman;andIwashedhands
and
faceintheicycoldbrook.Bythetimebreakfastwasoverthegoldof
therisingsunwastippingthehighestpinesontheridges.

Westartedonfoot,leavingthehorseshobblednearcamp.Allthe
hounds
appearedfit.EvenOldDantrottedalongfriskily.Pyle,aneighborof
Haughts,hadcometotakeahuntwithus,bringingtwodogswith
him.
ForthislastdayIhadformulatedaplan.Eddandoneoftheboys
were
totakethehoundsdownontheeastsideofthegreatridgethatmade
theeasternwallofDudeCanyon.R.C.wastoclimboutonthisridge,
andtakehispositionatthemostadvantageouspoint.Wehadalready
chasedhalfadozenbearsoverthissaddle,oneofwhichwasthebig
frostycoatedgrizzlythatEddandNielsenhadshotat.Therestofus
hurriedtotheheadofDudeCanyon.CoppleandIweretogodown
tothe
firstpromontoriesundertherim.Theothersweretoawait
developments
andgowhereHaughtthoughtbesttosendthem.

CoppleandIstarteddownoverandaroundthecrags,goingcarefully
untilwereachedtheopenslopeundertherimrock.Itseemedthis
morningthatIwasfresh,eager,agilelikeagoatonmyfeet.Inmy
consciousnessofthisIboastedtoCopplethatIwoulddislodgefewer

397
stonesandsomakelessnoisethanhe.Thecanyonslopedatanangle
of
aboutfortyfivedegrees,andweslid,stepped,jumpedandrandown
withoutstartinganavalanche.

Whenwedescendedtothefirstbarecapeofprojectingrockthehour
was
theearliestinwhichIhadbeendownundertherim.Allthecanyon
and
thegreatgreengulfbelowwereunusuallyfreshandbeautiful.Iheard
thelonelycallofstrangebirdsandthelowmurmurofrunningwater.
An
eaglesoaredinthesunlight.Highaboveustotheeastrosethe
magnificentslopeofDudeCanyon.Igazeduptotheblackandgreen
and
silverascent,uptothegoldtippedcraggycrestwhereR.C.hadhis
stand.Iknewhecouldseeme,butIcouldnotseehim.Afterwardhe
toldmethatmyredcapshoneclearlyoutofgreenandgray,sohehad
nodifficultyinkeepingtrackofmywhereabouts.Thethicketsof
aspens
andoaksseemednowtostandonend.Howdarkintheshadeand
steely
andcoldtheylooked!Thatgiantridgestillobstructedthesun,and
allonthissideofit,underitsfrowningcrestandslopewasdarkand
freshandcoolinshadow.Theravineswerechokedblackwithspruce
trees.Herealongthisgrayshadyslantofwall,innichesandcracks,
andunderledges,andonbenches,werethebedsofthebears.Evenas
I
gazedmomentarilyIexpectedtoseeabear.Itlookedtwohundred
yards
acrossthecanyonfromwherewestood,butCoppledeclareditwasa
thousand.Onourothersidecapesandbenchesandgroveswere
brightin
sunshine,clearacrosstheroughbreakstothewestwallofDude
Canyon.

398
Isawaflockofwildpigeonsbelow.Wayoutandbeyondrolledthe
floor
ofthebasin,greenandvast,likearidgedseaofpines,tothebold
blackMazatzalssohauntinglybeckoningfromthedistance.Copple
spoke
nowandthen,butIwantedtobesilent.Howwildandwonderfulthis
placeintheearlymorning!

ButIhadnotlongtomeditateandrevelinbeautyandwildness.Far
downacrossthemouthofthecanyon,attheextremesouthernendof
that
vastoakthicket,thehoundsgavetongue.OldDanfirst!Inthestill
coolairhowhisgreatwolfbayrangoutthewildnessofthetimeand
place!AlreadyEddandPylehadroundedtheendoftheeastridge
and
werecomingupalongtheslopeofDudeCanyon.

Houndsworkinround,declaredCopple.NowIlltellyouwhat.
Last
nightabearwasfeedinalongthatendofthethicket.Thehoundsare
millinroundtryintostraightenouthistrail....Itsadeadcinch
theylljumpabearanwellseehim.

Lookeverywhere!IcautionedCopple,andmyeyesrovedand
strained
overallthatvastslope.SuddenlyIespiedtheflashofsomething
black,fardownthethicket,andtriedtoshowittomycomrade.

Letsgoaroundandowntothatlowerpointofrock.Itsabetter
standthanthis.Closertothethicketancommandsthose....ByGolly,
Iseewhatyousee!Thatsabear,slippindown.Staywithmenow!

StayingwithCopplewasamatterofutterdisregardofclothes,limbs,
life.Heplungedoffthatbareledge,slidflatonhisback,andwormed
feetfirstundermanzanita,andgainingopenslopegotuptorunand

399
jumpintoanotherthicket.BystayingwithhimIsawthatIwould
havea
wayopenedthroughthebrush,andsomethingtofalluponifIfell.He
rimmedtheedgeofadeepgorgethatmademedizzy.Heleaped
cracks.He
lethimselfdownoveraledgebyholdingtobushes.Hefoundstepsto
descendlittlebluffs,andheflewacrosstheopenslidesofweathered
rock.Iwasafraidthisshortcuttothelowerprojectingcapeofrock
wouldendsuddenlyonsomeimpassablebreakorcliff,butthough
the
travelgrewroughwestillkepton.Iworeonlyboots,trousers,and
shirt,andcap,withcartridgebeltstrappedtightaroundme.Itwasa
wonderIwasnotstripped.Someofmyragswenttodecoratethe
wakewe
leftdownthatsuccessionofledges.Butwemadeit,withmeatleast,
bruisedandragged,dustyandchoked,andabsolutelybreathless.My
body
burnedaswithfire.Hotsweatraninstreamsdownmychest.Atlast
we
reachedthebareflatprojectingcapeofrock,andindeeditaffordedan
exceedinglyfavorableoutlook.Ihadtosinkdownontherock;Icould
nottalkuntilIgotmybreath;butIusedmyeyestoeveryadvantage.
NeitherCopplenorIcouldlocatetheblackmovingobjectwehad
seen
fromabove.Weweremuchclosertothehounds,thoughtheystill
were
bayingatangledcrosstrail.FortunateitwasformethatIwasgiven
thesefewmomentstorestfrommytremendousexertions.

Myeyessearchedtheleafcoveredslopesobrownandsear,andthe
shaggythickets,andtriedtopiercetheblacktangleofspruce
patches.Allatonce,magicallyitseemed,mygazeheldtoadark
shadow,abitofdenseshade,underalargesprucetree.Something
moved.Thenabigbearroserightoutofhisbedofleaves,majestically
asifdisturbed,andturnedhisheadbacktowardthedirectionofthe

400
bayinghounds.Nexthewalkedout.Hestopped.Iwasquiveringwith
eagernesstotellCopple,butIwaited.Thenthebearwalkedbehinda
treeandpeepedout,onlyhisheadshowing.Afteramomentagainhe
walkedout.

Ben,arentyouevergoingtoseehim?Icriedatlast.

What?ejaculatedCopple,insurprise.

Bear!andIpointed.Thissideofdeadspruce.

No!...Reckonyouseeastump....ByGolly!Iseehim.Hesadandy.
Reddishcolor....Doc,hesoneofthemmeanoldcinnamons.

Watch!Whatwillhedo?Ben,hehearsthehounds.

Howsingularlythrillingtoseehim,howslowlyhewalked,how
devoidof
fear,howstately!

Surehehearsthem.Seehimlookback.Thesonofagun!Illbethes
givenusthebearlaughmorethanonce.

Ben,howfarawayishe?Iasked.

Oh,thatseighthundredyards,declaredCopple.Alongshot.Lets
wait.Hemayworkdowncloser.Butmostlikelyhellrunuphill.

IfheclimbshellgorighttoR.C.sstand,Isaid,gazingupward.

Surewill.Theresnoothersaddle.

ThenIdecidedthatIwouldnotshootathimunlesshestarteddown.
My
excitementwasdifficulttocontrol.Ifounditimpossibletoattendto

401
mysensations,tothinkaboutwhatIwasfeeling.Butthemomentwas
fullofsuspense.Thebearwentintoasmallclumpofsprucesand
stayedtherealittlewhile.Tantalizingmoments!Thehoundswerehot
uponhistrail,stillworkingtoandfrointheoakthicket.Ijudged
scarcelyamileseparatedthemfromthebear.Againhedisappeared
behindalittlebush.Rememberingthatfivepairsofsharpeyescould
seemefromthepointsaboveIstoodupandwavedmyredcap.I
wavedit
wildlyasamanwavesaredflaginmomentsofdanger.Afterward
R.C.
saidhesawmeplainlyandunderstoodmyaction.Againthebearhad
showed,thistimeonanopenslide,wherehehadhalted.Hewas
looking
acrossthecanyonwhileIwavedmycap.

Ben,couldheseeussofar?Iasked.

ByGolly,Illbethedoesseeus.Yougettosmokinhimup.Anif
youhithimdontbenervousifhestartsforus.Cinnamonsarebad
customers.Layoutfiveextrashellsanmakeupyourmindtokill
him.

Idroppedupononeknee.Thebearstarteddown,comingtowardsus
over
anopenslide.Aimalittlecoarseanfollowhim,saidCopple.Idid
so,andtighteningallmymusclesintoaball,holdingmybreath,I
fired.Thebeargaveasavagekickbackwards.Hejerkedbacktobite
at
hishaunch.Agrowl,low,angry,viciousfollowedtheechoesofmy
rifle.Thenitseemedhepointedhisheadtowardusandbegantorun
downtheslope,lookingourwayallthetime.

ByGolly!yelledCopple.Youstunghimoneanhescomin!...Now
youvegottoshootsome.Hecanrolldownhillanrunuphilllikea
jackrabbit.Takeyourtimewaitforopenshotsanmakesure!

402

Copplesadvicebroughthometomewhatcouldhappenevenwith
the
advantageonmyside.Alsoitbroughtthecoldtightprickletomy
skin,
theshudderthatwasnotathrill,thepressureofbloodrunningtoo
swiftly,Ididnotfeelmyselfshake,buttheriflewasunsteady.I
restedanelbowonmyknee,yetstillIhaddifficultyinkeepingthe
sightonhim.Icouldgetitonhim,butcouldnotkeepitthere.Again
hecameoutintotheopen,attheheadofayellowslide,thatreached
toathicketbelow.Imustnothurry,yetIhadtohurry.Afterallhe
hadnotsofartocomeandmostofthedistancewasundercover.
Through
mymindflashedHaughtsstoryofacinnamonthatkeptcomingwith
ten
bulletsinhim.

Doc,hespaddinalong!warnedCopple.Smokesomeofthem
shells!

StrainingeverynerveIaimedasbefore,onlyalittleinadvance,held
tightandpulledatthesameinstant.Thebeardoubledupinaballand
begantorolldowntheslide.Hescatteredtheleaves.Thenintothe
thickethecrashed,knockingtheoaks,andcrackingthebrush.

Someshot!yelledCopple.Hesyourbear!

Butmybearcontinuedtocrashthroughthebrush.Ishotagainand
yet
again,missingbothtimes.Apparentlyhewascoming,fasternow
and
thenheshoweddarkalmostatthefootofourslope.Treeswerethick
there.Icouldnotseethere,andIcouldnotlookforbearandreload
atthesamemoment.Myfingerswerenotverynimble.

403
Dontshoot,shoutedCopple.Hesyourbear.Inevermakeany
mistakeswhenIseegamehit.

ButIseehimcoming!

Where?...ByGolly!thatsanotherbear.Hesblack.Yoursisred....
Looksharp.Nexttimeheshowssmokehim!

IsawaflashofblackacrossanopenspaceIheardascatteringof
gravel.ButIhadnochancetoshoot.Thenbothofusheardabear
runninginthickleaves.

Hesgonedownthecanyon,saidCopple.Nowlookforyourbear.

ListenBen.Thehoundsarecomingfast.TheresRock.TheresSue.

Iseethem.OldDanwhatdoyouthinkofthatolddog?...There!
your
redbearsstillcomin...Hesbadhurt.

ThoughCoppletriedhardtoshowmewhere,andIstrainedmyeyes,
I
couldnotseethebear.Icouldnotlocatethethreshingofbrush.I
knewitseemedcloseenoughformetobegladIwasnotdowninthat
thicket.Howthehoundsmadethewelkinring!Rockwasinthelead.
Sue
wasnext.AndOldDanmusthavefoundthespeedofhisbestdays.
Strangehedidnotbayalldownthatslope!WhenRockandSue
headedthe
bearthenIsawhim.Hesatuponhishaunchesreadytofight,but
they
didnotattackhim.Insteadtheybegantoyelpwildly.Idarednot
shoot
againforfearofhittingoneofthem.OldDanjustbeattherestofthe
packtothebear.Uppealedayelpingchorus.IhadneverheardOld

404
Dan
bayabearatcloserange.Withdeep,hoarse,quick,wildroarshe
dominatedthatmedley.Aboxcanyontookupthebays,cracking
themback
inechofromwalltowall.

FromthesaddleofthegreatridgeabovepealeddownR.C.s:
Waahoo!

Isawhimsilhouetteddarkagainsttheskyline.HewavedandI
answered.Thenhedisappeared.

Nielsenbellowedfromthecraggycapeaboveandbehindus.From
downthe
canyonEddsentuphispiercing:KiYi!ThenTakahashiappeared
oppositetous,likeagoatonapromontory.Howhis:Banzai!rang
abovethebayingofthehounds!

Wedbetterhurrydownanacross,saidCopple.Reckonthehounds
willjumpthatbearorsomeoneelsewillgettherefirst.Wegotto
skedaddle!

Asbeforewefellintoamanzanitathicketandhadtocrawl.Thenwe
cameoutupontherimofaboxcanyonwheretheechoesmadesucha
din.
Itwastoosteeptodescend.Wehadtoheadit,andCoppletook
chances.
Looseboulderstrippedmeandstoutbushessavedme.Weknocked
streams
ofrockandgraveldownintothisgorge,sendinguparoarasof
falling
water.Butwegotaround.Asteepslopelaybelow,allpineneedles
and
leaves.FromthispointIsawEddontheoppositeslope.

405
Istoppedonebear,Iyelled.Hurry.Lookoutforthedogs!

Then,imitatingCopple,Isatdownandslidasonatobogganforsome
thirtythrillingyards.SomeofmyanatomyandmoreofmyragsIleft
behindme.Butitwastooexcitingthentothinkofhurts.Imanagedto
protectatleastmyrifle.Copplewaschargingintothethicketbelow.I
followedhimintothedarkgorge,wherehugeboulderslay,anda
swift
brookran,andleavestwofeetdeepcarpetedtheshadycanyonbed.It
wasgloomydownintothelowerpart.Isawwherebearhadturned
over
theleavesmakingadarktrack.

Thehoundshavequit,calledCopplesuddenly.Itoldyouhewas
your
bear.

Weyelled.Somebodyaboveusanswered.Thenweclimbedupthe
opposite
slope,throughadensethicket,crossingafreshbeartrack,arunning
track,andsooncameintoanopenrockyslidewheremybearlay
surroundedbythehounds,withOldDanonguard.Thebearwasred
in
color,withsilkyfur,alongkeenhead,andfinelimbs,andofgoodly
size.

Cinnamon,declaredCopple,andturninghimoverhepointedtoa
white
spotonhisbreast.Finebear.Aboutfourhundredpounds.Maybenot
so
heavy.Buthelltakesomepackinuptotherim!

ThenIbecameawareoftheothermen.Takahashihadarrivedonthe
scenefirst,findingthebeardead.Eddcamenext,andafterhimPyle.

406
Isatdownforamuchneededrest.Coppleinterestedhimselfin
examiningthebear,findingthatmyfirstshothadhithimintheflank,
andmysecondhadgonethroughthemiddleofhisbody.Next
Copple
amusedhimselfbytakingpicturesofbearandhounds.OldDancame
tome
andlaybesideme,andlookedasiftosay:Well,wegothim!

YellsfrombothsidesofthecanyonwereansweredbyEdd.R.C.was
rollingtherocksonhissideatagreatrate.ButNielsenontheother
sidebeathimtous.TheNorwegiancrashedthebrush,sentthe
avalanchesroaring,andeventuallyreachedus,alldirty,ragged,
bloody,withfireinhiseye.Hehadcomeallthewayfromtherimin
shortorder.Whataperformancethatmusthavebeen!Hesaidhe
thought
hemightbeneeded.R.C.guidedbyEddsyells,camecrackingthe
brush
downtous.Palehewasandwetwithsweat,andtherewereblack
brush
marksacrosshisface.Hiseyeswerekeenandsharp.Hehadstarted
down
forthesamereasonasNielsens.Buthehadtodescendaslopeso
steep
thathehadtoholdontokeepfromslidingdown.Andhehadjumped
a
bigbearoutofabedofleaves.Thebedwasstillwarm.R.C.saidhe
hadsmelledbear,andthathistobogganslidedownthatslope,with
bearsallaroundforallheknew,hadstartedthecoldsweatonhim.

PresentlyGeorgeHaughtjoinedus,havingcomedownthebedofthe
canyon.

Weknewyoudgotabear,saidGeorge.Fatherheardthefirsttwo
bulletshitmeat.AnIheardhimrollindowntheslope.

407
Well!exclaimedR.C.Thatswhatmadethosefirsttwoshotssound
so
strangetome.Differentfromthelasttwo.Soundedlikesoftdead
pats!
Anditwasleadhittingflesh.Iheardithalfamileaway!

Thismatterofthesoundofbulletshittingfleshandbeingheardata
greatdistanceseemedtomethemostremarkablefeatureofourhunt.
LaterIaskedHaught.Hesaidheheardmyfirsttwobulletsstrikeand
believedfromthepeculiarsoundthatIhadmybear.Andhisstand
was
fullyamileaway.Butthemorningwasunusuallystillandsound
carried
far.

Themenhungmybearfromtheforksofamaple.Thentheydecided
to
giveustimetoclimbuptoourstandsbeforeputtingthehoundson
the
otherfreshtrail.

Nielsen,R.C.,andIstartedtoclimbbackuptothepoints.Onlyplenty
oftimemadeitpossibletoscalethoseruggedbluffs.Nielsen
distanced
us,andeventuallywebecameseparated.Thesungrewwarm.The
bees
hummed.Afterawhileweheardthebayingofthehounds.Theywere
workingwestwardunderthebasesofthebluffs.Werimmedthe
headsof
severalgorges,climbedandcrossedthewestridgeofDudeCanyon,
and
lostthehoundssomewhereaswetraveled.

R.C.didnotseemtomindthismisfortuneanymorethanI.Wewere
content.Restingawhilewechosethemostaccessibleridgeand

408
started
thelongclimbtotherim.Westwardunderusopenedagreatnoble
canyon
fullofforests,thicketedslopes,cliffsandcavesandcrags.Nexttime
werestedweagainheardthehounds,farawayatfirst,butgradually
drawingcloser.Inhalfanhourtheyappearedrightunderusagain.
Theirbaying,however,grewdesultory,andlackedthestirringnote.
FinallyweheardEddcallingandwhistlingtothem.Afterthatfora
whileallwasstill.ThenpealedupthecleartunefulmelodyofEdds
horn,callingoffthechaseforthatdayandseason.

Allover,saidR.C.Areyouglad?

ForOldDanssakeandTomsandthebearsyes,Ireplied.

Me,too!ButIdnevergetenoughofthiscountry.

Weproceededonourascentoverandupthebrokenmassesofrock,
climbingslowlyandeasily,makingfrequentandlongrests.Weliked
to
lingerinthesunonthewarmpinymossybenches.Everyshadycedar
or
juniperwooedustotarryamoment.Oldbeartracksandfreshdeer
tracksheldthesameinterest,thoughourhuntwasover.Aboveusthe
graybrokenmassofrimtoweredandloomed,moreformidableaswe
neared
it.Sometimeswetalkedalittle,butmostlyweweresilent.

LikeanIndian,ateverypause,Igazedoutintothevoid.How
sweeping
andgrandthelongslopinglinesofridgesfromtherimdown!Away
in
theeastraggedspursofpeaksshowedhazily,likeuncertain
mountains
onthedesert.SouthrangedtheupheavedandwildMazatzals.

409
Everywhere
beneathme,forleaguesandleaguesextendedthetimberedhillsof
green,thegrayoutcroppingsofrocks,theredbluffs,thegolden
patchesofgrassyvalleys,lostinthecanyons.Allthesesweptawayin
avastbillowyoceanofwildernesstobecomediminthepurpleof
distance.Andthesunwassettinginablazeofgold.FromtherimI
tookalastlingeringlookanddidnotmarvelthatIlovedthis
wonderlandofArizona.

CHAPTERV

DEATHVALLEY

Ofthefivehundredandfiftyseventhousandsquaremilesofdesert
land
inthesouthwestDeathValleyisthelowestbelowsealevel,themost
aridanddesolate.Itderivesitsfelicitousnamefromtheearliestdays
ofthegoldstrikeinCalifornia,whenacaravanofMormons,
numbering
aboutseventy,struckoutfromSaltLake,tocrosstheMojaveDesert
and
makeashortcuttothegoldfields.Allbuttwooftheseprospectors
perishedinthedeep,ironwalled,ghastlysinkholes,whichfromthat
timebecameknownasDeathValley.

Thesurvivorsofthisfatalexpeditionbroughtnewstotheworldthat
thesombrevalleyofdeathwasatreasuremineofminerals;andsince
thenhundredsofprospectorsandwanderershavelosttheirlives
there.
Toseekgoldandtoliveinthelonelywasteplacesoftheearthhave
beenandeverwillbedrivingpassionsofmen.

MycompaniononthistripwasaNorwegiannamedNielsen.Onmost

410
ofmy
tripstolonelyandwildplacesIhavebeenfortunateastocomradesor
guides.ThecircumstancesofmymeetingNielsenweresosingular
thatI
thinktheywillserveasaninterestingintroduction.SomeyearsagoI
receivedaletter,brief,clearandwellwritten,inwhichthewriter
statedthathehadbeenawandererovertheworld,asailorbeforethe
mast,andwasnowaprospectorforgold.Hehadtakenfourtrips
alone
downintothedesertofSonora,andinmanyotherplacesofthe
southwest,andknewtheprospectinggame.Somewherehehadrun
acrossmy
story_DesertGold_inwhichItoldaboutalostgoldmine.Andthe
pointofhisletterwasthatifIcouldgivehimsomeideaastowhere
thelostgoldminewaslocatedhewouldgofinditandgivemehalf.
His
namewasSievertNielsen.Iwrotehimthattomyregretthelostgold
mineexistedonlyinmyimagination,butifhewouldcometoAvalon
to
seemeperhapswemightbothprofitbysuchameeting.Tomy
surprisehe
came.Hewasamanofaboutthirtyfive,ofmagnificentphysique,
weighingaboutonehundredandninety,andhewassoenormously
broad
acrosstheshouldersthathedidnotlookhisfivefeetten.Hehada
wonderfulhead,huge,round,solid,likeacannonball.Andhis
bronzed
face,hisregularfeatures,squarefirmjaw,andcleargrayeyes,
fearlessanddirect,weresingularlyattractivetome.Welleducated,
withastrangecalmpoise,andacoolcourtesy,notcommonin
Americans,
heevidentlywasamanofgoodfamily,byhisownchoicearolling
stone
andadventurer.

411
NielsenaccompaniedmeontwotripsintothewildernessofArizona,
on
oneofwhichhesavedmylife,andontheotherherescuedallour
party
fromamostuncomfortableandpossiblyhazardoussituationbut
these
aretalesImaytellelsewhere.InJanuary1919NielsenandItraveled
aroundthedesertofsouthernCaliforniafromPalmSpringsto
Picacho,
andinMarchwewenttoDeathValley.

Nowadaysalittlerailroad,theTonapahandTidewaterRailroad,runs
northwardfromtheSantaFeoverthebarrenMojave,anditpasses
within
fiftymilesofDeathValley.

ItwassunsetwhenwearrivedatDeathValleyJunctionaweird,
strange
sunsetindroopingcurtainsoftransparentcloud,lightingupdark
mountainranges,somepeaksofwhichwereclearcutandblack
against
thesky,andothersveiledintrailingstorms,andstillotherswhite
withsnow.ThatnightinthedingylittlestoreIheardprospectorstalk
aboutfloat,whichmeantgoldonthesurface,andabouthighgrade
ores,zinc,copper,silver,lead,manganese,andabouthowboraxwas
minedthirtyyearsago,andhauledoutofDeathValleybyteamsof
twentymules.Nextmorning,whileNielsenpackedtheoutfit,I
visited
theboraxmill.ItwasthepropertyofanEnglishfirm,andtheworkof
hauling,grinding,roastingboraxorewentondayandnight.Insideit
wasasdustyandfullofapowderyatmosphereasanoldfashioned
flour
mill.Theorewashauledbytrainfromsometwentymilesover
towardthe
valley,andwasdumpedfromahightrestleintoshutesthatfedthe

412
grinders.ForanhourIwatchedthisconstantstreamofboraxasitslid
downintothehungrycrushers,andIlistenedtothechalkfaced
operatorwhoyelledinmyear.Oncehepickedapieceofgypsumout
of
theborax.Hesaidthemillwasgettingouttwentyfivehundredsacks
a
day.Themostsignificantthinghesaidwasthatmendidnotlastlong
atsuchlabor,andintheminessixmonthsappearedtobethelimitof
humanendurance.HowsoonIhadenoughofthatchokingairinthe
room
wheretheboraxwasground!Andtheplacewheretheboraxwas
roastedin
hugeroundrevolvingfurnacesIfoundthatintolerable.WhenIgot
out
intothecoolcleandesertairIfeltanimmeasurablerelief.Andthat
reliefmademethoughtfulofthelivesofmenwholabored,whowere
chainedbynecessity,bydutyorhabit,orbylove,tothehardtasksof
theworld.Itdidnotseemfair.Theselaborersoftheboraxminesand
mills,likethestokersofships,andcoaldiggers,andblastfurnace
handslikethousandsandmillionsofmen,killedthemselvesoutright
or
impairedtheirstrength,andwhentheyweregoneorrendereduseless
otherswerefoundtotaketheirplaces.WheneverIcomeincontact
with
somephaseofthisproblemoflifeItakethemeaningorthelessonof
ittomyself.Andastheyearsgobymyrespectandreverenceand
wonderincreaseforthesemenofelementallives,thesehornyhanded
toilerswithphysicalthings,theseuncomplainingusersofbrawnand
bone,thesegiantswhobreasttheelements,whotilltheearthand
handleiron,whofightthenaturalforceswiththeirbodies.

ThatdayaboutnoonIlookedbackdownthelonggraveland
greasewood
slopewhichwehadascendedandIsawtheboraxmillnowonlya
smoky

413
blotonthedesertfloor.WhenwereachedthepassbetweentheBlack
MountainsandtheFuneralMountainswelefttheroad,andwere
soonlost
totheworksofman.Howstrangeagladness,arelief!Something
dropped
awayfromme.IfeltthesamesubtlechangeinNielsen.Foronething
he
stoppedtalking,exceptanoccasionalwordtothemules.

ThebluntendoftheFuneralRangewasasremarkableasitsname.It
sheeredupveryhigh,asawtoothedrangewithcoloredstratatiltedat
anangleoffortyfivedegrees.Zigzagveinsofblackandredand
yellow,ratherdull,ranthroughthegreatdrabgraymass.Thisendof
therange,anironmountain,frowneddownuponuswithhardand
formidableaspect.Thepeakwasdrapedinstreakyveilsofrainfrom
lowdroppingcloudsthatappearedtohavelodgedthere.Allbelow
lay
clearandcoldinthesunlight.

Ourdirectionlaytothewestward,andatthataltitude,aboutthree
thousandfeet,howpleasanttofacethesun!Forthewindwascold.
The
narrowshallowwashleadingdownfromthepassdeepened,
widened,almost
imperceptiblyatfirst,andthengraduallyuntilitsproportionswere
striking.Itwasagullywherethegravelwasheddownduringrains,
and
whereascantvegetation,greasewood,andfewlowcactiandscrubby
sage
struggledforexistence.Notabirdorlizardorlivingcreaturein
sight!Thetrailwasgettinglonely.FromtimetotimeIlookedback,
becauseaswecouldnotseefaraheadallthesuperbscenespreadand
toweredbehindus.Byandbyeourwashgrewtobeawidecanyon,
winding
awayfromunderthemassive,imponderingwalloftheFuneral

414
Range.The
highsideofthismagnificentandimpressivelineofmountainsfaced
westasuccessionofunscalableslopesofbareraggedrock,jagged
and
jutted,darkdrab,rustyiron,withgrayandobliquestratarunning
throughthemfaraseyecouldsee.Cloudssoaredaroundthepeaks.
Shadowssailedalongtheslopes.

Walkinginloosegravelwasashardastrudgingalonginsand.After
aboutfifteenmilesIbegantohaveleadenfeet.Ididnotmindhard
work,butIwantedtoavoidoverexertion.WhenIamextremely
wearied
myfeelingsareliabletobecoloredsomewhatbydepressionor
melancholy.ThenitalwaysbotheredmetogettiredwhileNielsen
kept
onwithhiswonderfulstride.

Say,Nielsen,doyoutakemeforaYaqui?Icomplained.Slowupa
little.

Thenheobligedme,andtocheermeuphetoldmeaboutalittle
trampingexperiencehehadinBajaCalifornia.Somewhereontheeast
slopeoftheSierraMadrehisburrosstrayedorwerekilledby
mountainlions,andhefounditimperativetostrikeatonceforthe
nearestranchbelowtheborder,adistanceofonehundredandfifty
miles.Hecouldcarryonlysomuchofhisoutfit,andassomeofitwas
valuabletohimhediscardedallhisfoodexceptafewbiscuits,anda
canteenofwater.Restingonlyafewhours,withoutsleepatall,he
walkedthehundredandfiftymilesinthreedaysandnights.I
believed
thatNielsen,bytellingmesuchincidentsofhisownwildexperience,
inspiredmetomoreendurancethanIknewIpossessed.

Aswetraveledondownthecanyonitsdimensionscontinuedto
grow.It

415
finallyturnedtotheleft,andopenedoutwideintoavalleyrunning
west.Alowrangeofhillsfacedus,risinginalongsweepingslantof
earth,liketheinclineofaglacier,toroundedspurs.Halfwayupthis
slope,wherethebrownearthlightenedthereshowedanoutcropping
of
clayamberandcreamandcinnamonandgreen,allexquisitelyvivid
and
clear.Thisbrightspotappearedtobeisolated.Faraboveitroseother
clayslopesofvariegatedhues,redandrussetandmauveandgray,
and
colorsindescribablymerged,allrunninginveinsthroughthisrange
of
hills.Wefacedthewestagain,anddescendingthisvalleyweresoon
greetedbyaregionofclayhills,bare,coneshaped,fantasticin
shade,slope,andridge,withahighsharppeakdominatingall.The
colorsweremauve,taupe,pearlgray,allstainedbyadescending
band
ofcrimson,asifahigherslopehadbeenstabbedtoletitslifeblood
flowdown.Thesoftness,therichnessandbeautyofthistextureof
earthamazedanddelightedmyeyes.

Quiteunprepared,attimeapproachingsunset,wereachedand
roundeda
sharpcurve,toseedownandfaraway,andtobeheldmuteinour
tracks.Betweenawhitemantledmountainrangeontheleftandthe
darkstripedloftyrangeontherightIcouldseefardownintoagulf,
ahazyvoid,avaststarkvalleythatseemedstreakedandridgedand
canyoned,anabyssintowhichveilsofrainweredroppingandover
which
brokencloudshung,piercedbyredandgoldrays.

DeathValley!Fardownandfarawaystill,yetconfoundingatfirst
sight!Igazedspellbound.Itoppressedmyheart.Nielsenstoodlikea
statue,silent,absorbedforamoment,thenhestrodeon.Ifollowed,
andeverysecondsawmoreanddifferentaspects,thatcouldnot,

416
however,changethefirststunningimpression.Immense,unreal,
weird!I
wentondownthewideningcanyon,lookingintothatchangingvoid.
How
fullofcolor!Itsmoked.Thetraceriesofstreamsorshiningwhite
washesbrightenedthefloorofthelongdarkpit.Patchesandplainsof
white,boraxflatsoralkali,showeduplikesnow.Aredhaze,sinister
andsombre,hungovertheeasternrampartsofthisvalley,andover
the
westerndroopedgrayveilsofrain,likethinnestlacyclouds,through
whichgleamsofthesunshone.

Nielsenploddedon,mindfulofourmules.ButIlingered,andatlast
checkedmyreluctantstepsatanopenhighpointwithcommanding
and
magnificentview.AsIdidnotattempttheimpossibletowritedown
thoughtsandsensationsafterwardIcouldrememberonlyafew.
How
desolateandgrand!Thefaraway,lonelyandterribleplacesofthe
earthwerethemostbeautifulandelevating.Lifeslittledayseemedso
easytounderstand,sopitiful.Asthesunbegantosetandthe
stormcloudsmovedacrossitthiswondrousscenedarkened,changed
every
moment,brightened,grewfullofluminousredlightandthen
streakedby
goldengleams.ThetipsofthePanamintMountainscameoutsilver
above
thepurpleclouds.Atsunsetthemomentwasgloriousdark,
forbidding,
dim,weird,dismal,yetstilltingedwithgold.Notlikeanyother
scene!DantesInferno!ValleyofShadows!CanyonofPurpleVeils!

Whenthesunhadsetandallthatupheavedandfurrowedworldof
rock
hadreceivedamantleofgray,andaslumberoussulphurousruddy

417
haze
slowlydarkenedtopurpleandblack,thenIrealizedmorefullythatI
waslookingdownintoDeathValley.

TwilightwasstealingdownwhenIcaughtupwithNielsen.Hehad
selectedforourcampaprotectednooknearwherethecanyonfloor
bore
somepatchesofsage,thestalksandrootsofwhichwouldservefor
firewood.Weunpacked,fedthemulessomegrain,pitchedourlittle
tentandmadeourbedallinshortorder.Butitwasdarklongbefore
wehadsupper.Duringthemealwetalkedalittle,butafterward,
when
thechoresweredone,andthemuleshadbecomequiet,andthe
strange
thicksilencehadsettleddownuponus,wedidnottalkatall.

Thenightwasblack,withskymostlyobscuredbyclouds.Apalehaze
markedthewestwheretheafterglowhadfaded;inthesouthone
radiant
starcrownedamountainpeak.Istrolledawayinthedarknessandsat
downuponastone.Howintensethesilence!Dead,vast,sepulchre
like,
dreaming,waiting,asilenceofages,burdenedwiththehistoryofthe
past,awful!Istrainedmyearsforsoundofinsectorrustleofsageor
dropofweatheredrock.Thesoftcooldesertwindwassoundless.This
silencehadsomethingterrifyinginit,makingmeamanaloneonthe
earth.Thegreatspaces,thewildplacesastheyhadbeenmillionsof
yearsbefore!Iseemedtodivinehowthroughthemmanmight
developfrom
savagetoagod,andhowalas!hemightgobackagain.

WhenIreturnedtocampNielsenhadgonetobedandthefirehad
burned
low.Ithrewonsomebranchesofsage.Thefireblazedup.Butit
seemed

418
differentfromothercampfires.Nocheer,noglow,nosparkle!
Perhaps
itwasowingtoscantandpoorwood.StillIthoughtitwasowingas
muchtotheplace.Thesadness,theloneliness,thedesolatenessofthis
placeweigheduponthecampfirethesameasitdiduponmyheart.

Wegotupatfivethirty.Atdawntheskywasacoldleadengray,with
a
dullgoldandroseintheeast.Ahardwind,eagerandnipping,blew
up
thecanyon.Atsixoclocktheskybrightenedsomewhatandtheday
did
notpromisesothreatening.

Anhourlaterwebrokecamp.Travelingintheearlymorningwas
pleasantandwemadegoodtimedownthewindingcanyon,arriving
at
FurnaceCreekaboutnoon,wherewehaltedtorest.Thisstreamof
warm
waterfloweddownfromagullythatheadedupintheFuneral
Mountains.
Ithadadisagreeabletaste,somewhatacridandsoapy.Agreenthicket
ofbrushwasindeedwelcometotheeye.Itconsistedofarankcoarse
kindofgrass,andarrowweed,mesquite,andtamarack.Thelast
named
boreapinkfuzzyblossom,notunlikepussywillow,whichwasquite
fragrant.Herethedeadnessoftheregionseemedfurtherenlivenedby
severalsmallbirds,speckledandgray,tworavens,andahawk.They
all
appearedtobehuntingfood.OnaridgeaboveFurnaceCreekwe
cameupon
aspringofpoisonwater.Itwasclear,sparkling,withagreenishcast,
anditdepositedawhitecrustonthemargins.Nielsen,kickingaround
inthesand,unearthedaskull,bleachedandyellow,yetevidentlynot
soveryold.Somethirstywandererhadtakenhislastdrinkatthat

419
deceivingspring.Thegruesomeandthebeautiful,thetragicandthe
sublime,gohandinhanddownthenakedshingleofthisdesolate
desert.

WhiletrampingaroundintheneighborhoodofFurnaceCreekI
happened
uponanoldalmostobliteratedtrail.Itledtowardtheridgesofclay,
andwhenIhadclimbeditalittlewaysIbegantogetanimpression
thattheslopesontheothersidemustrundownintoabasinor
canyon.
SoIclimbedtothetop.

Themagnificentscenesofdesertandmountain,likethesplendid
things
oflife,mustbeclimbedfor.InthisinstanceIwassuddenlyand
stunninglyconfrontedbyayellowgulfofconeshapedandfan
shaped
ridges,allbarecrinklyclay,ofgold,ofamber,ofpink,ofbronze,of
cream,alltaperingdowntoroundknobbedlowerridges,bleakand
barren,yetwonderfullybeautifulintheirstarkpurityofdenudation;
untilatlastfardownbetweentwowidelyseparatedhillsshone,dim
and
blueandghastly,withshiningwhitestreakslikesilverstreamsthe
ValleyofDeath.Thenbeyonditclimbedtheleaguelongredslope,
mergingintotheironbuttressedbaseofthePanamintRange,and
here
lineonline,andbulgeonbulgerosetheboldbenches,andonupthe
unscalableoutcroppingsofrock,likecolossalribsoftheearth,onand
upthesteepslopestowheretheirdensityofblueblackcolorbeganto
thinoutwithstreaksofwhite,andthenceupwardtothelastnoble
height,wherethecoldpuresnowgleamedagainstthesky.

Idescendedintothisyellowmaze,thisworldofgulliesandridges
whereIfounditdifficulttokeepfromgettinglost.Ididlosemy
bearings,butasmybootsmadedeepimprintsinthesoftclayIknew

420
it
wouldbeeasytobacktrackmytrail.Afterawhilethislabyrinthine
seriesofchannelsanddunesopenedintoawidespaceenclosedon
three
sidesbydenudedslopes,mostlyyellow.Theseslopesweresmooth,
graceful,symmetrical,withtinytraceryoferosion,andeachappeared
toretainitsowncolor,yelloworcinnamonormauve.Buttheywere
alwaysdominatedbyahigheroneofadifferentcolor.Andthis
mystic
regionslopedandslantedtoagreatamphitheaterthatwaswalledon
the
oppositesidebyamountainofbareearth,ofeveryhue,andofa
thousandribbedandscallopedsurfaces.Atitsbasethegoldsand
russetsandyellowswerestrongest,butascendingitsslopeswere
changingcolorsadarkbeautifulmousecolorononesideanda
strange
pearlycreamontheother.Betweenthesegreatcornersofthecurve
climbedridgesofgrayandheliotropeandamber,tomeetwonderful
veins
ofgreengreenastheseainsunlightandtraceryofwhiteandon
the
boldfaceofthisamphitheater,highup,stoodoutazigzagbeltofdull
red,thestainofwhichhadrundowntotingetheotherhues.Above
all
thiswondrouscolorationupheavedthebarebreastofthemountain,
growingdarkerwithearthybrowns,uptothegrayoldrockramparts.

Thisplaceaffectedmesostrangely,soirresistiblythatIremained
therealongtime.Somethingterriblehadhappenedtheretomen.Ifelt
that.Somethingtragicwasgoingonrightthenthewearingdown,
the
devastationoftheoldearth.Howplainlythatcouldbeseen!
GeologicallyitwasmoreremarkabletomethantheGrandCanyon.
Butit
wastheappallingmeaning,theabsolutelyindescribablebeautythat

421
overcameme.Ithoughtofthosewhohadbeeninspirationtomein
my
work,andIsufferedapangthattheycouldnotbetheretoseeand
feel
withme.

Onmywayoutofthisamphitheaterahardwindswoopeddownover
the
slopes,tearingupthecoloreddustinsheetsandclouds.Itseemedto
meeachgullyhaditsmysticpallofcolor.Ilostnotimeclimbingout.
Whatahotchokingordeal!ButIneverwouldhavemisseditevenhad
I
knownIwouldgetlost.Lookingdownagainthescenewasvastly
changed.
Asmokyweirdmurkyhellwiththedullsungleamingmagentahued
through
theshiftingpallofdust!

Intheafternoonweproceededleisurely,throughanatmosphere
growing
warmeranddenser,downtothevalley,reachingitatdusk.We
followed
thecourseofFurnaceCreekandmadecampundersomecottonwood
trees,
onthewestslopeofthevalley.

Thewindblewawarmgaleallnight.Ilayawakeawhileandslept
with
verylittlecovering.Towarddawnthegalediedaway.Iwasupat
fivethirty.Themorningbrokefine,clear,balmy.Aflareofpale
gleaminglightovertheFuneralRangeheraldedthesunrise.Thetips
of
thehighersnowcappedPanamintswererosecolored,andbelow
themthe
slopeswerered.Thebulkoftherangeshoweddark.Allthesefeatures

422
graduallybrighteneduntilthesuncameup.Howblazingandintense!
The
windbegantoblowagain.Underthecottonwoodswiththeirrustling
leaves,andgreensosoothingtotheeye,itwasverypleasant.

Beyondourcampstoodgreenandpinkthicketsoftamarack,and
somedark
velvetygreenalfalfafields,madepossiblebythespreadingofFurnace
Creekoverthevalleyslope.Amanlivedthere,andraisedthisalfalfa
forthemulesoftheboraxminers.Helivedtherealoneandhiswas
indeedalonely,wonderful,andterriblelife.Atthisseasonafew
ShoshoneIndianswerecampednear,helpinghiminhislabors.This
lone
ranchersnamewasDenton,andheturnedouttobeabrotherofa
Denton,hunterandguide,whomIhadmetinLowerCalifornia.

Likealldesertmen,usedtosilence,Dentontalkedwithdifficulty,but
thecontentofhisspeechmadeupforitsbrevity.Hetoldusaboutthe
wanderersandprospectorshehadrescuedfromdeathbystarvation
and
thirst;hetoldusabouttheterrificnoondayheatofsummer;andabout
theincredibleandhorriblemidnightfurnacegalesthatsweptdown
the
valley.Withthemercuryatonehundredandtwentyfivedegreesat
midnight,belowthelevelofthesea,whenthesefurnaceblastsbore
downuponhim,itwasjustallhecoulddotolive.Nomancould
spend
manysummersthere.AsforwhitewomenDeathValleywasfatalto
them.
TheIndiansspentthesummersuponthemountains.Dentonsaid
heat
affectedmendifferently.Thosewhoweremeateatersoralcohol
drinkers,couldnotsurvive.Perfectheartandlungswerenecessaryto
standtheheatanddensityofatmospherebelowsealevel.Hetoldofa
manwhohadvisitedhiscabin,andhadleftearlyintheday,

423
vigorousandstrong.Afewhourslaterhewasfoundneartheoasis
unabletowalk,crawlingonhishandsandknees,draggingafull
canteen
ofwater.Heneverknewwhatailedhim.Itmighthavebeenheat,for
the
thermometerregisteredonehundredandthirtyfive,anditmight
have
beenpoisongas.Anotherman,young,ofheavyandpowerfulbuild,
lost
seventypoundsweightinlessthantwodays,andwasnearlydead
when
found.TheheatofDeathValleyquicklydriedupblood,tissue,bone.
Dentontoldofaprospectorwhostartedoutatdawnstrongand
rational,
toreturnatsunsetsocrazythathehadtobetiedtokeephimoutof
thewater.Tohavedrunkhisfillthenwouldhavekilledhim!Hehad
to
befedwaterbyspoonful.Anotherwanderercamestaggeringintothe
oasis,blind,withhorribleface,andblackswollentongueprotruding.
Hecouldnotmakeasound.Healsohadtoberoped,asifhewerea
mad
steer.

ImetonlyoneprospectorduringmystayinDeathValley.Hecamped
with
us.Aratherundersizedmanhewas,yetmuscular,withbrown
wrinkled
faceandnarrowdimeyes.Heseemedtobesmilingtohimselfmostof
the
time.Helikedtotalktohisburros.Hewasexceedinglyinteresting.
Oncehenearlydiedofthirst,havinggonefromnoononedaytillnext
morningwithoutwater.Hesaidhefelldownoftenduringthisordeal,
butdidnotlosehissenses.Finallytheburrossavedhislife.Thisold
fellowhadbeenacrossDeathValleyeverymonthintheyear.Julywas
theworst.Inthatmonthcrossingshouldnotbeattemptedduringthe

424
middleoftheday.

ImadetheacquaintanceoftheShoshoneIndians,orratherthrough
NielsenImetthem.Nielsenhadakindly,friendlywaywithIndians.
Therewerehalfadozenfamilies,livinginsqualidtents.Thebraves
workedinthefieldsforDentonandthesquawskepttotheshadewith
theirnumerouschildren.Theyappearedtobepoor.Certainlythey
werea
raggedunpicturesquegroup.NielsenandIvisitedthem,takingan
armloadofcannedfruit,andboxesofsweetcrackers,whichthey
receivedwithevidentjoy.ThroughthisovertureIgotapeepintoone
ofthetents.ThesimplicityandfrugalityofthedesertPiuteorNavajo
wereherewanting.Thesechildrenoftheopenworewhitemens
apparel
andatewhitemensfood;andtheyevenhadacookstoveanda
sewing
machineintheirtent.Withallthattheyweretryingtolivelike
Indians.Formethespectaclewasmelancholy.Anothermanifestation
addedtomylonglistofdegenerationoftheIndiansbythewhites!
The
tentwasabuzzingbeehiveofflies.Ineverbeforesawsomany.Ina
cornerIsawanakedIndianbabyasleeponagoatskin,allhisbrown
warmtintedskinspottedblackwithflies.

LaterinthedayoneoftheIndianmencalleduponusatourcamp.I
was
surprisedtohearhimusegoodEnglish.Hesaidhehadbeeneducated
in
agovernmentschoolinCalifornia.FromhimIlearnedconsiderable
about
DeathValley.Ashewasabouttodepart,onthewaytohislaborin
the
fields,heputhishandinhisraggedpocketanddrewforthanold
beadedhatband,andwithcalmdignity,worthyofanygift,hemade
mea

425
presentofit.Thenhewentonhisway.Theincidenttouchedme.Ihad
beenkind.TheIndianwasnottobeoutdone.Howthatremindedme
ofthe
manyinstancesofprideinIndians!Whoyethasevertoldthestoryof
theIndianthetruth,thespirit,thesoulofhistragedy?

NielsenandIclimbedhighupthewestslopetothetopofagravel
ridgesweptcleanandpackedhardbythewinds.HereIsatdown
whilemy
companiontrampedcuriouslyaround.AtmyfeetIfoundatiny
flower,so
tinyastoalmostdefydetection.Thecolorresembledsagegrayandit
hadthefragranceofsage.Hardtofindandwonderfultoseewasits
tinyblossom!Thesmallleaveswereperfectlyformed,verysoft,
veined
andscalloped,withafinefuzzandaglisteningsparkle.Thatdesert
flowerofaday,initsisolationandfragility,yetitsunquenchable
spirittolive,wasasgreattomeasthetremendousreddeningbulkof
theFuneralMountainsloomingsosinisterlyoverme.

ThenIsawsomelargebatswithwhiteheadsflittingaroundinzigzag
flightsassuredlynewandstrangecreaturestome.

Ihadcomeuptheretothishighridgetotakeadvantageofthebleak
lonelyspotcommandingaviewofvalleyandmountains.BeforeI
could
composemyselftowatchthevalleyImadethediscoverythatnearme
weresixlowgravellymounds.Graves!Onehadtwostonesathead
and
foot.Anotherhadnomarkatall.Theonenearestmehadforthehead
a
flatpieceofboard,withletteringsoeffacedbyweatherthatIcould
notdeciphertheinscription.Thebonesofahorselaylitteredabout
betweenthegraves.Whatalonelyplaceforgraves!DeathValley
seemed

426
tobeonevastsepulchre.Whathadbeenthelivesanddeathsofthese
peopleburiedhere?Lonely,melancholy,namelessgravesuponthe
windy
desertslope!

Bythistimethelongshadowshadbeguntofall.SunsetoverDeath
Valley!AgoldenflareburnedoverthePanamintslongtapering
notched
mountainswithalltheirruggedconformationshowing.Abovefloated
gold
andgrayandsilveredgedcloudsbelowshoneawhorlofdusky,
ruddy
bronzehaze,graduallythickening.Dimveilsofheatstillrosefromthe
paledesertvalley.AsIwatchedallbeforemeseemedtochangeand
be
shroudedinpurple.Howboldanddesolateascene!Whatvastscale
and
tremendousdimension!Thecloudspaled,turnedrosyforamoment
with
theafterglow,thendeepenedintopurplegloom.Asombresmoky
sunset,
asifthisDeathValleywasthegatewayofhell,anditssinistershades
wereupflungfromfire.

Thedesertdaywasdoneandnowthedeserttwilightdescended.
Twilight
ofhazypurplefelloverthevalleyofshadows.Theblackboldlinesof
mountainsranacrosstheskyanddownintothevalleyanduponthe
otherside.Abuzzardsailedlowintheforegroundfittingemblemof
lifeinallthatwildernessofsuggesteddeath.Thisfleetinghourwas
tranquilandsad.Whatlittlehadittodowiththedestinyofman!
DeathValleywasonlyaraggedrentoftheoldearth,fromwhichmen
in
theirfollyandpassion,hadsoughttodigforthgoldentreasure.The
airheldasolemnstillness.Peace!Howitrestedmytroubledsoul!I

427
feltthatIwasmyselfhere,fardifferentfrommyhabitualself.Why
hadIlongedtoseeDeathValley?WhatdidIwantofthedesertthat
was
naked,red,sinister,sombre,forbidding,ghastly,stark,dimanddark
anddismal,theabodeofsilenceandloneliness,theproofofdeath,
decay,devastationanddestruction,themajesticsublimityof
desolation?TheanswerwasthatIsoughttheawful,theappallingand
terriblebecausetheyharkedmebacktoaprimitivedaywheremy
blood
andboneswerebequeathedtheirheritageoftheelements.Thatwas
the
secretoftheeternalfascinationthedesertexerteduponallmen.It
carriedthemback.Itinhibitedthought.Itbroughtuptheageold
sensations,sothatIcouldfeel,thoughIdidnotknowitthen,once
againtheallsatisfyingstateofthesavageinnature.

WhenIreturnedtocampnighthadfallen.Theeveningstarstood
highin
thepalesky,allaloneanddifficulttosee,yetthemorebeautifulfor
that.Thenightappearedtobewarmerorperhapsitwasbecauseno
wind
blew.Nielsengotsupper,andatemostofit,forIwasnothungry.AsI
satbythecampfireaflockoflittlebats,thesmallestIhadever
seen,dartedfromthewoodpilenearbyandflewrightinmyface.
They
hadnofearofmanorfire.Theirwingsmadeasoftswishingsound.
LaterIheardthetrilloffrogs,whichwasthelastsoundImighthave
expectedtohearinDeathValley.Asweethighpitchedmelodioustrill
itremindedmeofthemusicmadebyfrogsintheTamaulipasJungle
of
Mexico.EverytimeIawakenedthatnight,anditwasoften,Iheard
this
trill.Once,too,sometimelate,mylisteningearcaughtfaintmournful
notesofakilldeer.Howstrange,andstillsweeterthanthetrill!What
atouchtotheinfinitesilenceandloneliness!Akilldeerbirdofthe

428
swampsandmarsheswhatcouldhebedoinginaridandbarren
Death
Valley?Natureismysteriousandinscrutable.

Nextmorningthemarvelofnaturewasexemplifiedevenmore
strikingly.
OutonthehardgravelstrewnslopeIfoundsomemoretinyflowers
ofa
day.Onewasawhitedaisy,veryfrailanddelicateonlongthinstem
withscarcelyanyleaves.Anotherwasayellowflower,withfour
petals,
apaleminiatureCaliforniapoppy.Stillanotherwasapurplered
flower,almostaslargeasabuttercup,withdarkgreenleaves.Last
and
tiniestofallwereinfinitelyfragilepinkandwhiteblossoms,onvery
flatplants,smilingwanlyupfromthedesolateearth.

NielsenandImadeknowntoDentonourpurposetowalkacrossthe
valley.Headvisedagainstit.Notthattheheatwasintenseatthis
season,heexplained,buttherewereotherdangers,particularlythe
brittlesaltycrustofthesinkhole.Neverthelesswewerenotdeterred
fromourpurpose.

Sowithplentyofwaterincanteensandafewbiscuitsinourpockets
wesetout.Isawtheheatveilsrisingfromthevalleyfloor,atthat
pointonehundredandseventyeightfeetbelowsealevel.Theheat
liftedinveils,likethinsmoke.Dentonhadtoldusthatinsummerthe
heatcameincurrents,inwaves.Itblastedleaves,burnedtreesto
deathaswellasmen.Prospectorswatchedfortheleadenhazethat
thickenedoverthemountains,knowingthennomancoulddarethe
terriblesun.Thatdaywouldbeahazedandglaringhell,leaden,
copper,withsunblazingaskyofmolteniron.

Alongsandyslopeofmesquiteextendeddowntothebarecrinkly
floor

429
ofthevalley,andherethedescenttoalowerlevelwasscarcely
perceptible.Thewalkingwasbad.Littlemoundsinthesaltycrust
made
ithardtoplaceafootonthelevel.Thiscrustappearedfairlystrong.
Butwhenitranghollowunderourboots,thenIsteppedvery
cautiously.
Thecolorwasadirtygrayandyellow.FaraheadIcouldseea
dazzling
whiteplainthatlookedlikefrostorafrozenriver.Theatmosphere
was
deceptive,makingthisplainseemfarawayandthencloseathand.

Theexcessivelydifficultwalkingandthethicknessoftheairtiredme,
soIplumpedmyselfdowntorest,andusedmynotebookasameans
to
concealfromthetirelessNielsenthatIwasfatigued.AlwaysIfound
thisaveryefficientexcuse,andforthatmatteritwasprofitablefor
me.IhaveforgottenmorethanIhaveeverwritten.

Ratheroverpowering,indeed,wasittositonthefloorofDeath
Valley,
milesfromtheslopesthatappearedsofaraway.Itwasflat,salty,
alkaliorboraxground,crustedandcracked.Theglarehurtmyeyes.I
feltmoist,hot,oppressed,inspiteofaratherstiffwind.Adryodor
pervadedtheair,slightlylikesaltydust.Thindustdevilswhirledon
thebareflats.Avalleywidemirageshoneclearasamirroralongthe
desertfloortothewest,strange,deceiving,athingbothunrealand
beautiful.ThePanamintstoweredawrinkledredgrislymass,broken
by
roughcanyons,withlongdeclinesoftaluslikebrownglaciers.
Seamed
andscarred!Indestructiblebypastages,yetsurelywearingtoruin!
FromthispointIcouldnotseethesnowonthepeaks.Thewhole
mountainrangeseemedanimmenseredbarrierofbeetlingrock.The
FuneralRangewasfartherawayandthereforemoreimpressive.Its

430
effect
wasstupendous.Leaguesofbrownchocolateslopes,scarredby
slashesof
yellowandcream,andshadowedblackbysailingclouds,ledupto
the
magnificentlypeakedandjuttedsummits.

SplendidasthiswasandreluctantasIfelttoleaveIsoonjoined
Nielsen,andweproceededonward.Atlastwereachedthewhite
winding
plain,thathadresembledafrozenriver,andwhichfromafarhad
looked
soghastlyandstark.Wefoundittobeaperfectlysmoothstratumof
saltglisteningasifpowdered.Itwasnotsolid,notstable.At
pressureofabootitshooklikejelly.Underthewhitecrustlaya
yellowsubstancethatwaswet.Hereappearedanobstaclewehadnot
calculatedupon.Nielsenventuredoutonitandhisfeetsankin
several
inches.Ididnotlikethewaveofthecrust.Itresembledthinice
underaweight.PresentlyIventuredtotakeafewsteps,anddidnot
sinkinsodeeplyormakesuchdepressioninthecrustasNielsen.We
returnedtothesolidedgeanddeliberated.Nielsensaidthatby
steppingquicklywecouldcrosswithoutanygreatrisk,thoughit
appearedreasonablethatbystandingstillapersonwouldsinkinto
the
substance.

Well,Nielsen,yougoahead,Isaid,withanattemptatlightness.
Youweighonehundredandninety.IfyougothroughIllturnback!

Nielsenstartedwithalaugh.Themancourtedperil.Thebrightfaceof
dangermusthavebeenbeautifulandalluringtohim.Istartedafter
himcaughtupwithhimandstayedbesidehim.Icouldnothave
walked
behindhimoverthatstripoftreacheroussinkhole.IfIcouldhave

431
donesothewholeadventurewouldhavebeenmeaninglesstome.
NeverthelessIwasfrightened.Ifelttheprickleofmyskin,the
stiffeningofmyhair,aswellasthecoldtinglingthrillsalongmy
veins.

Thisplacewasthelowestpointofthevalley,inthatparticular
location,andmusthavebeenupwardsoftwohundredfeetbelowsea
level.Thelowestspot,calledtheSinkHole,laysomemilesdistant,
andwastheterminusofthisriverofsaltywhite.

Wecrosseditinsafety.Ontheothersideextendedalongflatof
upheavedcrustsofsaltandmud,fullofholesandpitfalls,an
exceedinglytoilsomeandpainfulplacetotravel,andforallwecould
tell,dangeroustoo.IhadallIcoulddotowatchmyfeetandfind
surfacestoholdmysteps.Eventuallywecrossedthisbrokenfield,
reachingtheedgeofthegravelslope,wherewewereveryglad
indeedto
rest.

Dentonhadinformedusthatthedistancewassevenmilesacrossthe
valleyatthemouthofFurnaceCreek.Ihadthoughtitseemedmuch
less
thanthat.ButafterIhadtoiledacrossitIwasconvincedthatitwas
muchmore.Ithadtakenushours.Howthetimehadsped!Forthis
reason
wedidnottarrylongonthatside.

Facingthesunwefoundthereturntripmoreformidable.Hotindeed
it
washotenoughformetoimaginehowterribleDeathValleywould
bein
JulyorAugust.Onallsidesthemountainsstoodupdimandobscure
and
distantinhaze.Theheatveilsliftedinripples,andanyobjectnot
nearathandseemedillusive.Nielsensetapaceformeonthisreturn

432
trip.Iwasquickerandsureroffootthanhe,buthehadmore
endurance.Iloststrengthwhilehekepthisunimpaired.Sooftenhe
had
towaitforme.OncewhenIbrokethroughthecrusthehappenedto
be
closeathandandquicklyhauledmeout.Igotonefootwetwithsome
acidfluid.Wepeereddownintothemurkyhole.Nielsenquoteda
prospectorssaying:Fortyfeetfromhell!Thatbrokensharpcrustof
saltaffordedthemeanesttravelingIhadeverexperienced.Slopesof
weatheredrockthatslipandslidearebad;cacti,andespeciallychoya
cacti,areworse:thejaggedandcorrugatedsurfacesoflavaarestill
morehazardousandpainful.ButthiscrackedfloorofDeathValley,
with
itssaltcrustsstandingonend,likepicketsofafence,beatanyplace
forhardgoingthateitherNielsenorIeverhadencountered.Iruined
myboots,skinnedmyshins,cutmyhands.Howthosesaltcutsstung!
We
crossedtheupheavedplain,thenthestripofwhite,andreachedthe
crinklyfloorofyellowsalt.Thelasthourtaxedmyendurancealmost
to
thelimit.Whenwereachedtheedgeofthesandandthebeginningof
the
slopeIwashotterandthirstierthanIhadeverbeeninmylife.It
pleasedmetoseeNielsenwringingwetandpanting.Hedranka
quartof
waterapparentlyinonegulp.AnditwassignificantthatItookthe
longestanddeepestdrinkofwaterthatIhadeverhad.

Wereachedcampattheendofthisstillhotsummerday.Neverhada
campseemedsowelcome!Whatawonderfulthingitwastoearnand
appreciateandrealizerest!Thecottonwoodleaveswererustling;bees
werehumminginthetamarackblossoms.Ilayintheshade,resting
my
burningfeetandachiagbones,andIwatchedNielsenashewhistled
overthecampchores.ThenIheardthesweetsongofameadowlark,

433
and
afterthatthemelodiousdeepnoteofaswampblackbird.Thesebirds
evidentlyweretravelingnorthandhadtarriedattheoasis.

LyingthereIrealizedthatIhadcometolovethesilence,the
loneliness,theserenity,eventhetragedyofthisvalleyofshadows.
DeathValleywasoneplacethatcouldneverbepopularwithmen.It
had
beensetapartforthehardydiggersforearthentreasure,andforthe
wanderersofthewastelandsmenwhogoforthtoseekandtofind
andto
facetheirsouls.Perhapsmostofthemfounddeath.Buttherewasa
deathinlife.Deserttravelerslearnedthesecretthatmenlivedtoo
muchintheworldthatinsilenceandlonelinessanddesolationthere
wassomethinginfinite,somethinghiddenfromthecrowd.

434