Basic Principle of Fancy Yarn:

A ground (core) component, an effect component and a binder in a fancy yarn are
shown in the following figure. To obtain structural effect, longer length of effect
component, relative to ground component must be present to form the required
effect. Twisting of the effect component on to the ground component will produce
aesthetic effect.

Fig: Basic components of Fancy yarn

The basic principle is therefore to feed the ground and effect component at different
speeds in to the twisting element. The percentage ratio of the effect component to the
ground component is called over feed ratio.

Fancy Yarn Manufacturing Systems:

The above figure shows the fancy yarn manufacturing system .The classification
is made based on the twisting, brushing and spinning process.

Classification of Fancy Yarns:

There are four main criteria recognized for the classification of fancy yarns. They are,

1. Type of raw material used for effect making

2. Number of Ground and Effect making material components
3. Method of manufacture
4. Type of Effect produced
5. End use of fancy yarns
Classification of fancy yarns is done according to the type and form of material used for
effect making. Type of material used for effect making refers basic material of the
components, viz; cotton, wool, silk, polyester, nylon, blend etc. Whereas form of
material refers forms of components used for the intended purpose. The components
can be not only yarns made from staple fibers or filaments but also the lengths of yarns
and/or filament, fabric pieces made up of woven material or knitted material or non-
woven material as well as the polymer cover for the decorative coating of core
component. They can be tape/ ribbon, metallic yarns etc. added for decorative means.
The number and type of components virtually change the structure and exterior of the
fancy yarn. The number of the components can differ from one to six and more. The
classification based on method of manufacturing basically deals with direct or indirect
process of getting fancy effect. Direct group deals with production of fancy yarn in single
step by specialized equipment, viz; twister for fancy yarn making, special knitting
machine etc. Whereas, and indirect category does not use specialized equipment for
the production of fancy yarn. The production delays by the number of machines in
sequence. Fancy yarn produced by ring spinning system is the best example for this
category. Following figure describes the classification of fancy yarn based on the type of
effects. Grouping of fancy yarn is based on the type of effects earned. Mainly deals with
the variation in the optical, structural and compound effect.

Figure: Classification of Fancy Yarns according to the type of the Effect

Types of Fancy Yarn:
Spiral Yarn:
Plying technique used here. Typically, two single yarns of
different thickness and twist level are plied together with slight
over feed of course yarn.

The spiral fancy yarn is a plied yarn with smooth spiralling of

one component around the others. Delivering one or more of its
components at a greater speed can produce fancy yarn with
spirals, so the shorter length of the component forms the core,
while the greater length of the components creates the spirals.

It shown in the following figure:

Fig . Structure of Spiral yarn

 structure
Gimp Yarn:
Both the plying technique and the hollow spindle process could be used to make this
yarn. Using hollow spindle process two ground yarns on which the drafted ribbon can be
made to buckle in to the form of wavy shape, a typical shown in the figure:

Fig. Structure of Gimp yarn

Loop Yarn:
The threading arrangement of the component yarns to form loops is similar to that of
gimp shown in the following figure. The considerations to for the loop yarns are the type
of fibers, level of twist applied and the percentage of over feed employed at the profile
stage.

Fig .Structure of Loop yarns

Snarl Yarns:
This also produced by plying process. The profile component is a highly twisted yarns
shown in the figure:

Fig.Structure of snarl yarn

Knob Yarns:
The knob yarns can be constructed by the joining or the plying system by using the over
feed of 150-200%, but the profile is visually not as well as defined in the spinning
process because a drafted ribbon is used as the profile component.

Knop yarn contains prominent bunches of its component arranged at regular or irregular
intervals. Using rollers capable of being operated independently usually makes this
fancy yarn: core component-intermittent delivery and effect component continuous
delivery. So the effect component joins the core and is gathered into bunch or knop by
the insertion of twist.

The Knob yarn shown in the figure:

Fig. Structure of Knob yarns

Cover Yarn:
The cover yarns are made by plying process the threading arrangement is identical to
the knob yarn. Two pair of rollers controlling the yarns are made to start stop as
required. However instead of stopping, each pair of rollers will in turn slow to a speed
that allows the other yarn to wrap around that fed by slowed rollers. The level of twist
required is high in order of 1600t/m.A typical structure of the Cover yarn shown in the
Figure:

Fig .Structure of Cover effect yarn

Slub Yarn:
The production of the ground and injected Slub yarns was considered this case the
roving is replaced as a profile component, roving periodically stop and start accordingly
to the required Slub length and spacing. The Slub thickness is determined by the roving
count.

Fig.Structure of Slub yarn

Chenille Yarn:
This was made originally by the Leno weaving two weft yarns are placed between each
crossing of the weft yarns. After weaving the weft ,length extended between the warp
yarns is cut to produce the pile effect .this traditional Chenille yarn shown in the figure:

Fig . Structure of Traditional Chenille yarn

Market Potential of Fancy Yarns:
While considering the market for fancy yarns, we need to remember that these goods
are not commodity items, and nor will they ever be. Their purpose is to add colour or
texture, or both. So market value of fancy yarns will remain negligible with compared to
the rest of the textile market. But due to the consequence of liberalization in trade with
countries like China a great interest in fancy yarn area is noticed in textile market all
over the world. Due to liberalization in fancy yarns sector trade between Europe and
Asia, the main Asian producers of fancy yarns compete with each other to offer more
and more sophisticated products.

Conclusion:
Fancy yarns are special products of spinning with deliberately introduced irregular
characteristics in either diameter, bulk or in colour. Products made from fancy yarns are
not commodity items. Although market value of fancy yarns is negligible with compared
to the rest of the textile market research and development in this area has become very
important. This is mainly attributed to the value addition obtained in terms of fashion or
function of the yarn. The production of fancy yarns has been differentiated and enriched
in such a scale that makes almost impossible to categorize and standardize all the
products. Regardless the explosion of the new fancy yarns products without the proper
standardization procedure or at least classification, the process of evolution of yarns, in
general, lasts, both in the context of the components and final products as well as
trade.

Production of Fancy yarns is a combination of art and science. There is lot of scope for
the innovators to develop new products in Textiles using Fancy yarns. Apart from the
Domestic market, Export of fancy yarns, Fabrics and Garments may provide great
Opportunities in future.

References:
1. Rameshkumar, C., Prakash, S.P., Kumar, S.J.K. and Anbumani, N.
(2008). Wrap spinning for fancy and high performance yarns. The Indian
Textile Journal, December, 15-26.
2. Pouresfandiari, F. (2003). New method of producing loop fancy yarns on
a modified open end rotor spinning frame. Textile Research J., 73, 209-
215.
3. Testore and Minero, Study on fundamental parameters of some Fancy
yarns, Journal of Textile Institute-1988.
Different structures and formations of fancy yarn
Abu Sayed Yarn No comments

Marl Yarn | Spiral or Corkscrew Yarn | Gimp Yarn

| Diamond Yarn |Eccentric Yarn | Boucle Yarn | Loop
Yarn | Snarl Yarn | Mock chenille Yarn | Knop Yarn

Structures and formations of fancy yarns

Fancy yarns fall in to different categories, depending upon the basic
morphology of yarns. They are shortly described below;

1. Marl Yarn:

The simplest of fancy effects, a marl yarn is

one in which two yarns of the same count
and twist, but of different colors, are folded
together to form a balanced yarn. They are,
therefore, essentially plain folded yarns
with the additional characteristics that the
yarns folded together are of a different
color or texture. As such, they barely count
as fancy yarns at all, except in that they
result in a suitable, but noticeable, modification to the appearance of
finishedfabric.

2. Spiral or Corkscrew Yarn:

 A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn
that displays a characteristic smooth
spiraling of one component around other.
Following figure shows the basic structure,
which is straightforward, and except in the
differing lengths of the two yarns involved,
very similar to the structure of marl yarn.
Indeed, just like marl yarn shown also in the
following Figure, it can be produced
relatively simply on a double frame or under
the ring spinning system. It is more textural
in appearance than marl, and the finer counts may also appear in some of
the laces used in lingerie.

3. Gimp Yarn:

A gimp is a compound yarn consisting of a

twisted core with an effect yarn wrapped
around it so as to produce wavy projections
on its surface. This structure is shown in
following figure. Since a binder is needed to
ensure the stability of the structure, the
yarn is produced in two stages. Two yarns
of widely differing count are plied together,
thick around him, and the reverse bond.
Reverse binding removes most of the twist inserted during the first process.
It is this removal of twist that creates the wavy profiles, since it makes the
effect yarns longer than the actual length of the completed yarn.

4. Diamond Yarn:
 A diamond yarn is made by folding a thick
single yarn or roving with a fine yarn or filament
of contrasting color using S-twist, and cabling it
with a similar fine yarn using Z-twist. Multi-fold
or `cable` yarns may be produced by extending
and varying this technique, to produce a wide
range of effects. Clearly, a true diamond yarn
would show some compression effect which in
the interests of clarity has been omitted from
the following figure.

5. Eccentric Yarn:
An eccentric yarn is an undulating gimp yarn, often produced by binding an
irregular yarn, for example a strip, slub or knop yarn, in the direction
opposite to the initial stage, creating graduated half-circular loops also
along the compound yarn.

6. Boucle Yarn:

The following figure shows the basic structure

underlying a boucle yarn. This is a compound
yarn comprising a twisted core with an effect
yarn (or roving) combined with it so as to
produce wavy projections on its surface. To
simplify the diagram, the core has been shown
as single bar, rather than as two yarns being
intertwined with the effect yarn, as would be the
case in reality.

Boucle yarns belong to the gimp yarns and loop yarns. The effect is
achieved by the differential delivery of the effect component wraps around
the core yarns either tightly or loosely according to the amount of excess
delivery and the level of the doubling twist inserted. These wraps are bound
by the effect yarn. The effect is similar to a gimp.
 7. Loop Yarn:
A loop yarn consists of a core with an effect
yarn wraooed around it and overfed so as to
produce almost circular projection on its
surface. The following figure shows the
structure of a loop yarn, in this case
somewhat simplified by showing the core as
two yarns, is twisted, and partially entraps
the effect.

8. Snarl Yarn:

Like the loop yarn, the snarl yarn is based

around a twisted core, although, again for
the sake of simplicity, the core has been
shown in following figure as two parallel
bars. A snarl yarn is one which displays
'snarls' or 'twist' projecting from the core. It is
made by similar method to the loop yarn, but
uses as the effect a lively, high twist yarn
and somewhat greater degree of overfeed.

9. Mock chenille Yarn:

A mock chenille dose not at all resemble a true

chenille yarn in its appearance as a yarn, but
when it is woven into afabric it will give an
effect very similar to that of a chenille. It will,
however, seem much harsher in handle
because it does not involve cutting the loop of
the effect yarns and so it lacks the 'velvety' fell.
 10. Knop Yarn:

A knop yarn is one that contains prominent

bunches of one or more of its component
threads, arranged at regular or irregular
intervals along its length, as shown in very
simplified form in the following yarn.

It is usually made by using an apparatus

that has two pairs of rollers, each capable of
being operated independently. This makes it
possible to deliver the foundation threads
intermittently, while the knopping threads that create the effect are
delivered continuously