TEXTILE MANUFACTURING PROCESS:

Textile manufacturing or production is a very complex process. The range of textile

manufacturing is so long. It starts from fibre to finished products.

PROCESS FLOW CHART OF TEXTILE MANUFACTURING

Spinning

Weaving

Dyeing +Printing+ Finishing

Garments Manufacturing

FLOW CHART OF SPINNING

Blow room

Carding

Drawing

Combing

Drawing

Roving Manufacturing

Ring Spinning

FLOW CHART OF WEAVING

 Yarn from spinning section

Doubling and Twisting

Winding

Creeping

Warping

Sizing

Winding on weavers beam

Weaving

FLOW CHART OF DYEING

Inspection of grey cloth

Stitching

Cropping

Brushing

Singeing

Desizing

Scouring

 Bleaching

Souring

Washing

Drying

Mercerizing

Dyeing

After treatment

Finishing

Inspection

Packing

Baling

FLOW CHART OF PRINTING

Inspection of grey cloth

 Stitching

Cropping

Brushing

Singeing

Desizing

Scouring

Bleaching

Souring

Washing

Drying

Mercerizing

Printing

After treatment

Finishing

Inspection

Packing

Baling
FLOW CHART OF GARMENT MANUFACTURING

Design / Sketch

Pattern Design

Sample Making

Production Pattern

Grading

Marker Making

Spreading


Cutting

Sorting/Bundling

Sewing/Assembling

Inspection

Pressing/ Finishing

Final Inspection

Packing

Despatch

MANUFACTURING PROCESS

INSPECTION OF GREY FABRIC

The manufacturing of anything requires raw material DSM textile mill (Dying & Printing of
Fabric) uses the grey fabric as the raw material. This is usually collected by the waving
department or sometimes by the party. The first step of manufacturing process is to inspect
the raw material that is as per required? Grey fabric is inspected as
1. Thread Counting i.e. (warp & weft) in the fabric manufacturing process thread selection is
important to get the proper GSM of fabric it counted by Pick glass.

2. Weight/sq. meter yarn

3. Yarn count In this process we take the 10 threads of warp and ten threads of weft and then
they are weighted separately. And then put in to this formula Yarn count = number of
threads*length of threads (cm)*0.0059/weight of threads in (gm.) Here the inspection of the
grey fabric is completed.

SINGEING & DESIZING

The process of singeing is carried out for the purpose of removing the loose hairy fibres
protruding from the surface of the cloth, thereby giving it a smooth, even and clean looking
face. Singeing is an essential process for the goods or textile material which will be subjected
to mercerizing, dyeing and printing to obtain best results from these processes. The fabric
passes over brushes to raise the fibres, and then passes over a plate heated by gas flames.
When done to fabrics containing cotton, this results in increased wet ability, better dyeing
characteristics, improved reflection, no "frosty" appearance, a smoother surface, better clarity
in printing, improved visibility of the fabric structure, less pilling and decreased
contamination through removal of fluff and lint. Gas singeing is used in DSM TEXTILE
industry. In gas singeing, a flame comes into direct contact to the fabric and burn the
protruding fibre. Here, flame height and fabric speed is the main concern to minimize the
fabric damage. Singeing is a mechanical process by which hairy, loose fibres are removed
from the surface of the textile material either by heating or burning to make the material
smoother and lustrous. Desizing is the process of removal of sizing material. Different types
of sizing materials are being used in industries. The sizing material is of no use after the yarn
is being woven into fabric. Desizing is the process of removing sizing materials from the
fabric, which is applied in order to increase the strength of the yarn which can withstand with
the friction of loom. Fabric which has not been desized is very stiff and causes difficulty in its
treatment with different solution in subsequent processes. After singeing operation the sizing
material is removed by making it water soluble and washing it with warm water. Desizing is
done by the oxidative method (chlorine, chloride, bromite, hydrogen peroxide) It is generally
assumed that it is necessary to remove the sizing material to achieve the satisfactory levelness
of bleaching, dyeing & printing process. Improper desizing process may cause the faulty
dyeing of fabric like un-even dyeing and variation in shades and irregular printing. After
these steps, fabric is kept on rotation for 8 to 12 hours continuously. The degree of proper
desizing is determined by extremely sensitive iodine test and the degree of sizing is called
Tigawa.

BLEACHING

Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloration and remaining trace impurities
from the cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is determined by the required whiteness
and absorbency. Cotton being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an oxidizing agent,
such as dilute sodium hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide or caustic soda. If the fabric
is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower levels of bleaching are acceptable. However, for white
bed sheets and medical applications, the highest levels of whiteness and absorbency are
essential. After scouring and bleaching, optical brightening agents (OBA) are applied to make
the textile material appear whiter. The bleaching process that is followed in DSM textile is
initially the desized fabric is washed/passed through the tanks of bleaching agent whose
recipe is (12gm/l caustic soda + 5gm/l weighting agent + 7gm/l stabilizer + 1gm/l sick ester)
then this fabric is steam heated at about 95C for 30 to 40 mints then after fabric is passed
through the water tanks and washed. Thus the fabric is bleached

INSPECTION OF BLEACHED FABRIC

When the fabric is completely bleached its sample is than send to the printing & dyeing lab
where its inspection takes place. The following three tests are done on the bleached fabric.

1. Absorbency

2. Tigawa

3. PH

Absorbency test is carried out after bleaching. A scale is stamped on the sample and dropped
in to the liquid for 1 mint the fabric absorbs the liquid. For the better quality level the
absorbency level must be higher or equal to 3. Since the hydrogen per oxide is harm full to
the human body it is therefore, necessary to test the Tigawa according to the scale defined the
less the number of Tigawa the better the quality it gains. This test is done by dropping iodine
liquid on the fabric, and then matches the colour with pre-defined scale. For better quality
level Tigawa must be less than 4. PH test is necessary to control the PH of the dyeing bath
because it affects the exhaustion and fiction rate some dyeing process are carried out in the
alkaline medium and some are done in acidic medium. It depends on the dye characteristic
and what type of dyes is used for which fibre. In general the PH level must be greater than 6.

MERCERIZING

Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric or yarns a lustrous
appearance and strengthens them. The process is applied to cellulosic materials like cotton or
hemp. A further possibility is mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with sodium
hydroxide solution to cause swelling of the fibres. This results in improved lustre, strength
and dye affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension, and all alkali must be washed out before
the tension is released or shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing can take place directly on
grey cloth, or after bleaching. (This is an optional step, performed when party requires) Note:
During our whole internship mercerizing process was not performed. VI. SETTING

3. The setting of fabric is done on the Stenter machine. Stenter is used for open form fabric.
After passing the open compactor fabric enters into the Stenter. Cotton fabric shrinks width
wise and weft distorted due to bleaching and dying process. The main purpose of the fabric is
to starch the fabric width wise and recover the uniform width. The main purpose of setting is
to set the width of the fabric so that we are able to print or dye the fabric according to
requirement. The function of Stenter is 1. Width of fabric is controlled by the Stenter. 2.
Finishing chemicals are applied on fabric by Stenter. 3. Shrinkage property is controlled by
the Stenter. 4. GSM of fabric is controlled by the Stenter. 5. Fabric is dried by the stentring
process.

DYEING & PRINTING

Dyeing is the process of adding colour to textile products like fibres, yarns, and fabrics.
Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical
material. After dyeing, dye molecules have uncut chemical bond with fibre molecules. The
temperature and time controlling are two key factors in dyeing. Dyes are used for colouring
the fabrics. Dyes are molecules which absorb and reflect light at specific wavelengths to give
human eyes the sense of colour. There are two major types of dyes - natural and synthetic
dyes. The natural dyes are extracted from natural substances such as plants, animals, or
minerals. Synthetic dyes are made in a laboratory. Chemicals are synthesized for making
synthetic dyes. Some of the synthetic dyes contain metals too. Fabric dyeing, also known as
piece dyeing, is dyeing fabric after it has been constructed. It is economical and the most
common method of dyeing solid coloured fabrics. The decision regarding colour can be made
after the fabric has been manufactured. Thus, it is suitable for quick response orders. Dye
penetration may not be good in thicker fabrics, so yarn dyeing is sometimes used to dye thick
fabrics in solid colours. Various types of dyeing machines are used for piece dyeing. The
selection of the equipment is based on factors such as dye and fabric characteristics, cost, and
the intended end use. In DSM textile industry the dyes are made or tested in the lab and then
passed for the manufacturing process and the machine used is Thermo-sol dyeing machine.
The process followed is continuous dyeing process in piece dyeing, which is used primarily
for fabrics that are to be a solid colour; a continuous length of dry cloth is passed full- width
through a trough of hot dye solution. The cloth then goes between padded rollers that squeeze
in the colour evenly and removes the excess liquid. In one variation of this basic method, the
fabric, in a rope-like coil, is processed on a reel that passes in and out of a dye beck or vat.
Textile printing is referred as localized dyeing. It is the application of colour in the form of a
paste or ink to the surface of a fabric, in a predetermined pattern. Printing designs onto
already dyed fabric is also possible. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the
fibre, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in
dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more
colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns. In printing,
wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silkscreens can be used to place colours
on the fabric. Colorants used in printing contain dyes thickened to prevent the colour from
spreading by capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design. Printing process
used in DSM Textile industries uses the digital printing mechanism. Digital textile printing is
described as any ink jet based method of printing colorants onto fabric. Most notably, digital
textile printing is referred to when identifying either printing smaller designs or printing
larger designs onto large format rolls of textile. In DSM Textile Industry Usually Zimmer
machine is used for printing of fabric which is based on jet ink technique. On the machine
equal to the equal to the number of colours used in the design engraved rollers are placed on
the machine so that all colours are printed separately on the fabric thus at the end a single
design as obtained

WASHING & CURING

Second step after dyeing is of drying of fabric which is done on PAD Steam machine and
then the fabrics goes to the chemical pad at the third step and finely the dyestuff is fixed on
the fabric. Washing of Dyed fabric is done on the PAD Steam. This process is performed
with sulphur dye. Fabric picks the chemical and goes to the steamer for fixation. At the end
the fabric goes through the washing pads to remove the un-fixed dyestuff. If the fabric is
printed so it is needed to be cured. Curing is the process of hardening the colour on to the
fabric so that it wont remove after washing. The temperature must get hot enough to firstly
evaporate the water based medium, then set the pigments - about 150C [depending on the
material to be heat set], Hair driers & household tumble driers are not suitable as they do not
get hot enough to set the pigments.

INSPECTION OF PRINTED FABRIC

After the printing/dyeing and curing the fabrics sample is send to the printing and dyeing
laboratory for pilling and staining i.e.(colour bleeding) tests are performed. Pilling is a fabric
surface characterized by little pills of entangled fiber clinging to the cloth surface and giving
the garment unsightly appearance. The pills are formed during wear and washing by the
entanglement of loose fibers which protrude from the fabric surface. Under the influence of
the rubbing action these

4. Loose fibers develop into small spherical bundles anchored to the fabric by a few unbroken
fibres. The samples are given a multi directional movement and rubbed against a standard
fabric. After certain number of rubs, the samples are examined and the number of pills
counted. This may be repeated say in stages of 500 cycles up to 3000 or 5000 and the rate of
development of pills noted. Colour bleeding test is performed on the dry and wet cotton
called Percale cotton. A piece of percale cotton is rubbed on the printed fabric normally for
10 cycles and the degree of colour bleeding is counted against predefined scale. This number
must be less than

FINISHING

Textile finishing is the term used for a series of processes to which all bleached, dyed, printed
and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they put on the market. The object of textile
finishing is to render textile goods fit for their purpose or end- use and/or improve
serviceability of the fabric. Finishing on fabric is carried out for both aesthetic and functional
purposes to improve the quality and look of a fabric. Fabric may receive considerable added
value by applying one or more finishing processes. The machines used for finishing process
in DSM Textile Industry are Stenter and calendar. The purpose of the Stenter machine is to
bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and also for heat setting and it is
used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. The main function
of the Stenter is to stretch the fabric width wise and to recover the uniform width. The fabric
is collected from the batcher to the scary and then it is passed through the pads where the
finishes are applied and sometimes shade variation is corrected. The fabric is entered into the
mahlo (weft straightened) the function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the
fabric is gripped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that
they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretching of the pins are greater than the clips.
These clips and pins are joined to endless chain. There are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the
machine each chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air.
The circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the
hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers are provided to stretch the warp yarn.

CALENDER

Calendering is an operation carried out on a fabric to improve its aesthetics. The fabric passes
through a series of calender rollers by wrapping; the face in contact with a roller alternates
from one roller to the next. An ordinary calender consists of a series of hard and soft
(resilient) bowls (rollers) placed in a definite order. The soft roller may be compressed with
either cotton or wool-paper, linen paper or flax paper. The hard metal bowl is either of chilled
iron or cast iron or steel. The calender may consist of 3, 5, 6, 7 and 10 rollers. The sequence
of the rollers is that no two hard rollers are in contact with each other. Pressure may be
applied by compound levers and weights, or hydraulic pressure may be used as an alternative.
The pressure and heat applied in Calendering depend on the type of the finish required. The
purposes of Calendering are to upgrade the fabric hand and to impart a smooth, silky touch to
the fabric, to compress the fabric and reduce its thickness, to improve the opacity of the
fabric, to reduce the air permeability of the fabric by changing its porosity, to impart different
degree of luster of the fabric, and to reduce the yarn slippage.

SANFORISING

Sanforising allows preventing the cotton from shrinking when washed. It is carried out by
compressing the cotton to reduce its shrinking capacity. Sanforising is the process of
treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly. It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the
woven cloth in both length and width before cutting and producing, to reduce the shrinkage
which would otherwise occur after washing. The cloth is continually fed into the sanforising
machine and therein moistened with either water or steam. A rotating cylinder presses a
rubber sleeve against another, heated, rotating cylinder. Thereby the sleeve briefly gets
compressed and laterally expanded, afterwards relaxing to its normal thickness. The cloth to
be treated is transported between rubber sleeve and heated cylinder and is forced to follow
this brief compression and lateral expansion, and relaxation. It is thus shrunk. The greater the
pressure applied to the rubber sleeve, the less the shrinking afterwards. The process may be
repeated. The aim of the process is a cloth which does not shrink significantly during clothes
production by cutting, ironing, sewing or, especially, by wearing and washing the finished
clothes. Cloth and articles made from it may be labeled to have a specific shrink-proof value.
Note: During our whole internship sanforising process was not performed. Then at the end
this finished fabric is sent to the market for seal.

HR DEPARTMENT

Recruitment

Textile industries promote the work of fashion designing, product pattern and styles, so your
human resources strategy should focus on recruiting suitable skilled manpower for the
production function as well as sales and marketing departments. Personnel in these areas are
crucial to the productivity, performance and bottom line of your company. If you operate
globally, recruit talented local candidates whose overall compensation will likely be several
times lower than deployed personnel with similar skill levels from the home office.

Training

Human resources personnel have to develop programs to train employees to adapt to new
technology that improves production operations in a changing garment market. Typically,
such training courses help employees enhance their career growth and update new products
for competitiveness. You also will need soft skills training courses on sales and marketing as
a strategic management endeavor for increased sales volumes. Human resources should have
a qualification system for existing and new employees to determine their respective training
needs. For best results, align the training programs in home and overseas subsidiaries with
your firms strategic goals and objectives.

Compensation Policy
Your human resources strategy should establish a salary and compensation policy to
encourage your existing workforce to stay and attract qualified candidates to your firm.
Perform periodic reviews of salary levels to ensure workers are remunerated competitively.
Incorporate an incentive system based on employees performance, such as instant bonuses
for the sales team once they get contracts or year-end bonuses for reaching performance
targets. Determine compensation for overseas subsidiaries based on company regulations and
the dynamics in the labor market.

Work Environment

Human resources should ensure a favorable working environment. Implement safety and
security measures, such as having fire alarms, first aid and monitoring systems in place.
Establish a professional working environment. Spell out job descriptions to avoid confusion.
An open door policy can improve communication and productivity when implemented
correctly. Integrate diversity by accommodating cultural values such as religious holidays or
prayer times, especially for overseas branches. Hold regular team-building events to connect
workers across departments and management, as well as reduce working stress.

Knowledge and job skills for a Marketing manager:

These job skills and knowledges are very essential who are interested to consider a
career as a marketing manager.

An analytical and creative mind

The ability to priorities
Excellent communication and presentation skills
Good literacy, numeracy and IT skills
Strong people management skills
Role of marketing manager:
 Fig: Role of marketing manager
Liaison between marketing roles and other roles within the fashion and textile
industry:

Fig: Liaison between marketing roles and other roles

Roles of marketing department in fashion and textiles:
Large fashion retailers and brands often have their own marketing departments or
brand manager to organize promotional activities to communicate the companys
brand image and value of consumers.

This may involve commissioning advertising agencies to produce advertising

companies. However, advertising is not a widespread promotional techniques in the
fashion and textile industry, due to the constantly changing nature of fashion
products.

There are several more subtle and cost-effective ways of promoting fashion ranges
to potential consumers which are more popular, such as:

Public relations
Fashion show
Press launches
Sponsorship
Celebrity endorsement
Point-of-purchase material
Special offers
Competitions
Websites
Marketing agencies can deal with various aspects of promotion to formulate a
marketing strategy for a fashion business and integrated marketing agencies can
also provide advertising. Marketing agencies tend to deal with different product types
rather than being fashion specialists. Within a marketing agency account managers
work with specific retailers or brands. Marketing roles have an emphasis on
knowledge of marketing techniques rather than product manufacture.