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Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955

DOI 10.1007/s00217-017-2899-x

ORIGINAL PAPER

Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis as a starter culture


significantly affects the dynamics of volatile compound profiles
of hard cooked cheeses
Solange Buchin1 · Gabriel Duboz1 · Jean‑Christophe Salmon1 

Received: 24 December 2016 / Revised: 6 April 2017 / Accepted: 22 April 2017 / Published online: 2 May 2017
© Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2017

Abstract  Lactobacillus delbrueckii (LD) is a species usually Introduction


found in raw milk hard cooked cheeses. Present in raw milk,
it grows in cheeses during ripening, but it can also be added in Cheese flavour develops during ripening as a result of fla-
large concentrations with acidifying starter cultures. Its role in voured compounds that form largely due to the growth
cheese proteolysis has been largely demonstrated, but its role and metabolic activity of microbial populations. These
in the formation of volatile compounds in cheeses remains compounds are part of volatile fraction made of numer-
to be documented. For this purpose, 16 experimental hard ous acidic and neutral compounds whose balance is deter-
cooked cheeses were made from raw milk using adjunct cul- minant for cheese flavour. Their occurrence in cheese and
tures made up of Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacil- their impact on flavour have been extensively described
lus helveticus with the addition or not of LD, and ripened for [1–5].
184 days. Bacterial populations and volatile compounds were In hard cooked cheeses, the secondary microbiota that
monitored throughout ripening. The LD addition affected develops in the cheese core during ripening plays a decisive
the early growth of the starters but not the dynamics of the role in the production of these compounds, whether it is the
native microbiota. LD had a major effect on proteolysis and raw milk microbiota [6, 7] or a secondary starter [8]. Fur-
on the composition of volatile compounds. Of the 85 volatile thermore, large amounts of acidifying starters are added to
compounds identified in the cheeses, 6 of the 7 acids, 10 of the vat milk; counts then decrease as ripening progresses,
the 16 aldehydes, 11 of the 17 alcohols, 10 of the 17 ketones, so their role during ripening is less obvious. In hard cooked
10 of the 23 esters, and 4 of the 5 sulphur compounds were cheese varieties that use thermophilic starters, Lactobacil-
affected by the LD addition at one or more stages of ripening. lus delbrueckii (LD) - in general, the subspecies lactis - is
At the end of ripening, levels of the 31 compounds affected commonly used, in addition to Lactobacillus helveticus
by LD were higher in the cheeses with LD added, except one (LH) and Streptococcus thermophilus (ST). Among lacto-
secondary alcohol and 2 methyl-ketones. The question of the bacilli, LD counts persist much longer than LH counts dur-
effective involvement of LD in these observations, whether ing cheese ripening [7, 9]. LD also develops when it is not
due to the metabolic activity of LD or interactions with other added as a starter, as it may still be present as a subdomi-
microbial populations, is raised. nant population in cheeses made from raw milk [10].
The role of LD in shaping sensory characteristics and
Keywords  Hard cooked cheese · Lactobacillus the extent of proteolysis was previously investigated in
delbrueckii · Volatile compound · Thermophilic acidifying experimental Swiss cheeses [9, 11–13]. The use of LD
starter as an acidifying starter for cheese manufacture was thus
associated with higher secondary proteolysis, a less sweet
taste and a better, more cohesive and elastic texture. These
* Solange Buchin results held regardless of whether LH was added as another
solange.buchin@inra.fr
acidifying starter. The presence of LD in starters was also
1
INRA, UR342 Technologie et Analyses Laitières, related in Swiss cheeses to different volatile fatty acid
39800 Poligny, France

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1944 Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955

profiles, including acetic and propionic acids [11, 14–16]. Gross composition
However, apart Biede et al. [11], the starter combinations
that were compared differed by more than one strain, which Analyses were performed as described by Demarigny
may explain that the results about LD effect were not con- et al. [17]. For cheeses aged 1 and 184 days, the pH of
sistent. Regarding the impact of LD on the neutral volatile grated cheese (Radiometer combined electrode, Neuilly-
fraction of hard cooked cheeses, it has not yet been studied Plaisance, France), dry matter (DM) and fat (butyromet-
with a dedicated experimental design. Controlling cheese ric method) contents were measured. The fat/dry matter
flavour using LD as a starter requires understanding how (FDM) and moisture in the non-fat substance (MNFS)
this species may affect the development of acidic as well as ratios were calculated. For cheeses aged 184 days, the chlo-
neutral volatile fractions. ride content was determined using a Corning 926 Chloride
The aim of this work was to determine the effect of the Coulter (Bagneux/Loing, France) and expressed as salt in
presence of LD, specifically Lb delbrueckii subsp. lactis, as water (NaCl/W); total nitrogen (TN), water-soluble nitro-
a starter in raw milk hard cooked cheeses on the microbial gen (WSN) and nitrogen soluble in phosphotungstic acid
populations and on the composition of volatile compounds. (PTASN) were determined using the Kjeldahl method after
This effect was studied in model cheeses made in con- adequate extractions. The WSN/TN and PTASN/TN ratios
trolled conditions, by comparing the inoculation of thermo- were calculated.
philic starters with or without LD.
Microbiological analyses

Materials and methods The total aerotolerant flora was enumerated in milk before
processing on PCA medium. Thermophilic lactobacilli
Cheese manufacture (LT), thermophilic streptococci (ST), mesophilic faculta-
tively heterofermentative lactobacilli (FHL) and propionic
Four batches of Swiss-type cheeses were manufactured acid bacteria (PAB) were enumerated in milk after addition
from raw milk over four days. Four cheeses were made of the starter, as well as in cheeses aged 1 and 7 days. All
each day from 40 L per vat of the same partly skimmed the strains were enumerated in cheeses after 48, 92, 139
raw milk (fat/protein = 1.12), with the addition of CuSO4 and 184 days of ripening. MRS, M17, FH and SLAC media
(140 mg per vat) to mimic the amount of copper measured were used, respectively, according to the culture conditions
in milk when traditional copper vats are used. In addi- described by Charlet et al. [10]. In accordance with these
tion, a mix of commercial terpenes was added to half the authors, in milk and cheeses until 7 days, colonies of LH
vats to study the effect of milk terpenes on the dynamics and LD were distinguished by their morphology on plates.
of bacteria and volatile compounds, and the interactions In addition, 511 colonies (from 2 batches of cheeses at
with the LD addition. The results are not presented here 48 days and from 3 batches at 92 and 139 days of ripen-
because of the negligible effect and absence of interac- ing) were collected from the MRS agar plates used for the
tions. These vats were therefore considered as biological enumeration of thermophilic lactobacilli. These colonies
replicates. Two mixes of thermophilic starters made using were Rep-typed [10] to determine if they were i/LD or ii/
strains from the URTAL collection were added by cross- LD strain L139 added to the milk as a starter.
ing with terpene addition. Two Streptococcus thermophilus
strains (S3 and S79) (5 × 105 cells ­mL−1 each) (ST), one Volatile compounds
Lactobacillus helveticus strain (L122) ­ (105 cells ­
mL−1)
(LH), and one Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis strain Volatile fatty acids were analysed in 15 g of cheese by sol-
(L139) ­(105 cells ­mL−1) (LD) were added to two vats (the vent extraction/saponification, followed by gas chroma-
so-called LD+). Only ST and LH were added to the two tography GC/FID (CE8160, ThermoScientific, Dardilly,
others (the so-called LD0). Rennet (Marshall 700 mg/L, France) performed with a Stabilwax DA column (Restek,
Danisco, Dangé Saint Romain, France) was added (6.9 mL Lisses, France) 30 m in length, 0.53 mm in diameter, and
per vat), and the milk was left to curdle. After cutting the 1 µm in thickness, as described by Bugaud et al. [18]. In
curd, the vats were heated to 53 °C. After moulding, the addition, to discriminate 2-methyl-butyric and 3-methyl-
cheeses were pressed for 6 h at 150 g c­ m−2. The pH was butyric acids, a second GC separation was conducted in
determined at 20 h after moulding with a penetration elec- the same conditions on a RTX5 column (Restek, Lisses,
trode (Mettler). The cheeses were then salted by rubbing France) 30 m in length, 0.53 mm in diameter, and 1 µm in
with salt after removing from the mould and 13 times dur- thickness. Neutral volatile compounds were analysed in
ing the first 30 days. The cheeses were ripened for 184 days 12 g of cheese by Purge and Trap extraction (Tekmar 3000,
at 11 °C, 92–94% RH. Agilent instruments, Les Ulis, France), followed by GC/MS

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Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955 1945

(GC6890/MSD5973, Agilent instruments, Les Ulis, France) 3.27 log cfu mL−1. The quantities of Lactobacillus helve-
as described by Bugaud et al. [18]. Compounds were identi- ticus (LH) and Lactobacillus delbrueckii (LD) measured in
fied according to Kovat’s retention index and the NIST/EPA/ the vat milk reached the expected values (around 5.0 log
MSDC mass spectral database (Royal Society of Chemis- cfu mL−1) (Table 1). The lower average count of Strep-
try, Cambridge, UK). The quantification of compounds was tococcus thermophilus (ST) in the LD0 milk was due to
expressed in arbitrary area units of a specific ion. low values found in batch B4 (data not shown). This is in
accordance with the observations of Fornasari et al. [21] on
Statistical analyses ST cultivability, altered in unfavourable conditions, milk
of batch B4 having the lowest protein content (data not
An analysis of variance was performed on all the data using shown). This interaction was no longer observed.
GLM analysis in S ­ YSTAT® to assess the effects of LD, Maximal counts of all starters were observed in cheeses
batch and interactions. Microbiological and volatile com- on day 1, with dramatic differences whether LD was
pound data were log transformed before statistical treat- added as a starter or not (P < 0.001): on average 8.34
ment. Means were compared using Bonferroni’s test at vs. 6.73 log cfu g−1 for ST, 5.76 vs. 7.96 log cfu g−1 for
P < 0.05. A principal component analysis (PCA) was per- LH, and 8.61 vs. 6.61 log cfu g−1 for LD. As no LD was
formed using ­XLSTAT® software. The volatile compounds added in LD0 milk, we could consider that those found in
measured in cheeses at day 184 were used as active varia- cheese originated from raw milk. After day 1, ST and LH
bles and physico-chemical data and microbial numerations counts dropped, and on day 7, the effect of the LD addi-
measured at different stages of ripening were introduced as tion remained for ST (P < 0.01), and in a lesser extent for
additional variables. LH (P  = 0.06). In contrast, LD counts remained high in
LD+ cheeses, with numbers between 7.76 and 8.34 log
cfu g−1 on day 7.
Results and discussion From day 48, counts on MRS medium and M17 medium
at 45 °C could not be definitely attributed to thermo-
Physico‑chemical composition philic lactobacilli and Streptococcus thermophilus popu-
lations. PCR analysis revealed that on day 48 no LH was
Regarding the gross composition of the cheeses, the val- observed on MRS medium at 45 °C, whereas LD repre-
ues were as expected at 1 and 184 days of ripening, i.e. sented around 45% of total colonies in LD0 cheeses and
an increase in pH from 5.17 ± 0.04 to 5.89 ± 0.09, and 60% in LD+ cheeses. Counts on MRS were significantly
DM from 61.9 ± 0.5% to 64.2 ± 0.6%; a decrease in higher on day 48 with the LD addition (P < 0.001). This
MNFS from 56.2 ± 0.4% to 53.9 ± 0.9%, and FDM from effect was due to the presence of cells of strain L139, found
52.1 ± 0.6% to 52.4 ± 0.8%. This composition did not dif- only in cheeses LD+ where it represented 70–80% of LD
fer with the LD addition. On day 184, the NaCl/W content (around 6.86 log cfu ­g−1) (data not shown). Besides these
was slightly higher in LD0 cheeses than in LD+ cheeses cells, the counts of LD were the same in cheeses LD0 and
(3.68  ± 0.25% vs. 3.51 ± 0.24%, P < 0.05), whereas the LD+ (around 6.43 log cfu ­g−1), showing that non-starter
extent of proteolysis was dramatically affected by the LD LD developed in both cheeses at the same levels. Another
addition. The fraction that contained small peptides and population that was not identified as LD was also present
free amino acids, represented by the ratio PTASN/TN, was on MRS-45 °C agar plates at around 6.70 log cfu ­g−1.
enhanced by 40% in LD+ cheeses (9.21 ± 0.51%) com- This unidentified microbiota was probably non-starter
pared with LD0 cheeses (6.14 ± 0.39%) (P < 0.001). The lactic acid bacteria (NSLAB) [22, 23]. Afterwards, LD
fraction WSN/TN that contained both large and small pep- represented only around 20% (on day 92) to 30% (on day
tides was enhanced by 4%, with values of 24.6 ± 0.8% 139) of counts on MRS-45 °C agar plates in both LD0 and
in LD+ cheeses and of 23.7 ± 0.8% in LD0 cheeses LD+ cheeses, the inoculated strain L139 being no longer
(P < 0.01). This dramatic increase in proteolysis conforms found (data not shown). In a similar way, as starter cells
with the presence of numerous proteinases and peptidases dramatically dropped on M17 medium at day 7, cells found
in this species [19], and the observations of Bouton et al. on this medium afterwards were probably ST cells present
[12] and Bouton and Grappin [20] in Comté and model in raw milk.
Swiss-type cheeses. FHL were present at lower levels in LD+ cheeses com-
pared with LD0 on days 1 and 7, but with a slight differ-
Microbiology ence. No effect of the LD addition on the native populations
was observed during ripening, except on day 184 when
The milk samples contained low levels of indigenous FHL and PAB levels were slightly higher in LD+ and LD0
microbiota, with a mean total aerobic microbiota count of cheeses, respectively.

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1946 Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955

Table 1  Counts of microbial groups: means without (LD0, n  = 8) Table 1  continued


and with (LD+, n = 8) LD addition in vat milk after starter inocula-
tion and in cheeses at six ripening steps and results of GLM analysis Microorganisms LD0 LD+ Pc
 Presumptive thermophilic lacto- 6.43 6.48 NS
Microorganisms LD0 LD+ Pc
bacilli
Milk after starter ­inoculationa  Facultatively heterofermentative 7.35 7.46 **
 Streptococcus thermophilus 5.41 5.84 *** lactobacilli
 Lactobacillus helveticus 5.11 4.97 NS  Propionic acid bacteria 5.78 5.42 *
 Lactobacillus delbrueckii <4.00 5.15 NS Mean comparison: different letters indicate different means by Bon-
 Facultatively heterofermentative 2.11 2.34 *** ferroni’s test, P < 0.05
lactobacilli a
 Counts expressed in log (cfu mL−1); others counts expressed in
 Propionic acid bacteria 2.45 2.43 NS log(cfu g−1)
b
Cheese day 1   In brackets LD numerated by PCR expressed in  % of the counts of
 Streptococcus thermophilus 6.73 8.34 *** presumptive thermophilic lactobacilli
c
 Lactobacillus helveticus 7.96 5.76 ***   P value of GLM analysis: NS not significant; *P < 0.05;
** P < 0.01; *** P < 0.001
 Lactobacillus delbrueckii 6.61 8.61 ***
 Facultatively heterofermentative 3.28 2.94 *
lactobacilli
 Propionic acid bacteria 2.90 2.99 NS The microbial dynamics observed conform to previ-
Cheese day 7
ous descriptions for raw milk hard cooked cheeses [22,
 Streptococcus thermophilus 4.64 5.16 **
23], with particularly low counts of PAB due to the low
 Lactobacillus helveticus 5.82 5.12 NS
ripening temperature and the relatively high salt content
observed in this study [24]. In addition, a break in the
 Lactobacillus delbrueckii 6.27 8.04 ***
PAB dynamics was observed with levels of about 1 log
 Facultatively heterofermentative 4.43 4.09 ***
lactobacilli less observed at day 139, compared to days 92 and 184.
 Propionic acid bacteria 2.88 2.87 NS This probably means that PAB cells present during the
Cheese day 48 first part of ripening lost cultivability at this time due to
 Presumptive Streptococcus thermo- 7.15 7.18 NS stressful conditions. Hence, these cells could be replaced
philus by strains that were able to develop or a switch occured in
 Presumptive thermophilic lactoba- 6.81 (45%) 7.21 (60%) *** their metabolism that made them able to survive. Unsur-
cilli ­(LDb) prisingly, LD was the only starter species that remained
 Facultatively heterofermentative 7.46 7.42 NS in a cultivable state after the early stages of ripening [9]
lactobacilli but at 92 days of ripening, cells of the added strain L139
 Propionic acid bacteria 3.48 3.53 NS were no more cultivable. Hence, they could be present in
Cheese day 92 cheese matrix in different physiological states: cells were
 Presumptive Streptococcus thermo- 7.16 7.10 NS dead and some of them lysed, or cells remained metaboli-
philus
cally active but not cultivable (ABNC) [25].
 Presumptive thermophilic lactoba- 7.17 (23%) 7.19 (19%) NS
Counts in milk and early growth of microbiota revealed
cilli (LD)
interactions between LD and other species, many of them
 Facultatively heterofermentative 7.77 7.65 NS
lactobacilli already described. According to Charlet et al. [10], LD
 Propionic acid bacteria 5.60 5.77 NS providing ST with peptides or amino acids may explain
Cheese day 139 this positive interaction. Hence, the major impact of the
 Presumptive Streptococcus thermo- 6.71 6.74 NS LD addition as a starter we observed on cheese gross
philus composition was the dramatic increase in proteolysis. As
 Presumptive thermophilic lactoba- 7.02 (32%) 7.01 (27%) NS hypothesized by Charlet et al. [10], the negative interac-
cilli (LD) tion between LD and LH may come from competition for
 Facultatively heterofermentative 7.51 7.48 NS carbohydrate availability. The antagonism between LD
lactobacilli and native FHL species in early ripening is consistent with
 Propionic acid bacteria 4.12 4.12 NS the explanation of Bouton et al. [7] regarding the nega-
Cheese day 184 tive impact of FHL on LD due to competition for limiting
 Presumptive Streptococcus thermo- 7.06 7.07 NS metabolites. However, after early stages, the impact of LD
philus
addition as a starter on microbial counts was limited.

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Table 2  Cheese volatile compounds: mean without (LD0, n = 8) and with (LD+ , n = 8) LD addition at four ripening steps and results of GLM analysis
Compounds Iona Kovat’s ­indexb Day 1 Day 92 Day 139 Day 184
c
LD0 LD+ P LD0 LD+ P LD0 LD+ P LD0 LD+ P

VFAs
 Acetic acid (C2) – – – 90 104 NS 95 108 NS 126 145 *
 Propionic acid (C3) – – – 69 97 *** 156 192 * 180 232 ***
 Butyric acid (C4) – – – 15.1 14.8 NS 16.6 17.5 * 17 19 **
 Caproic acid (C6) – – – 5.1 4.4 NS 5.6 5.7 NS 5.6 6.0 NS
 Isobutyric acid (iC4) – – – 0.63 1.22 *** 0.61 1.37 ** 0.57 0.81 *
 2-Methyl butyric acid (2MeC4) – – – 0.95 1.28 ** 0.85 1.77 * 0.82 1.14 **
 3-Methyl butyric acid (3MeC4) – – – 1.5 2.2 *** 2.3 3.4 * 2.5 3.0 NS
Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955

Aldehydes
 Acetaldehyde 44 205 252 NS 241 269 NS 270 422 ** 279 399 ***
 Propanal 29 523 – – – 124 89 * 84 76 NS 103 76 NS
 Butanal 72 594 11 15 NS 23 31 * 22 32 * 23 36 ***
 Pentanal 58 699 168 222 NS 206 135 * 125 140 NS 130 107 NS
 Hexanal 72 801 19 30 NS 52 61 NS 41 44 NS 48 56 **
 Heptanal 96 902 7 7 NS 9 11 NS 6 8 NS 5 4 NS
 Octanal 84 1004 14 16 NS 33 37 NS 34 40 NS 26 21 NS
 Nonanal 57 1106 22 20 NS 66 73 NS 68 73 NS 73 53 **
 Decanal 57 1208 nd nd – 10 9 NS 5 7 NS 11 8 NS
 Propenal 56 486 34 41 NS 63 57 NS 73 68 NS 61 74 **
 2-Methyl-propanal 72 554 98 111 NS 120 201 ** 258 388 ** 231 376 **
 2-Methyl-butanal 58 662 66 42 ** 268 333 * 562 798 ** 405 701 ***
 3-Methyl-butanal 58 653 149 98 ** 370 444 * 578 746 ** 409 661 ***
 Benzaldehyde 106 969 20 42 NS 130 226 NS 126 177 NS 117 97 NS
 Benzeneacetaldehyde 91 1053 nd nd – 19 21 NS 20 27 NS 18 19 NS
 2-Hydroxy-benzaldehyde 122 1055 nd nd – 12 19 NS 3 6 NS TR ND NS
Alcohols
 Ethanol 45 448 4202 5757 NS 22,979 29,336 ** 30,326 30,245 * 41,461 38,360 NS
 1-Propanol 59 557 14 7 NS 7212 12,156 ** 23,518 35,060 ** 34,248 52,068 **
 1-Butanol 56 663 13 18 * 1625 2889 * 4087 6247 * 7,675 10,393 *
 1-Pentanol 55 769 111 100 NS 171 98 ** 104 100 NS 82 80 NS
 1-Hexanol 56 870 17 27 NS 268 293 NS 255 382 * 415 536 *
 1-Penten-3-ol 57 683 ND ND – 50 43 NS 49 46 NS 19 19 NS
 2-Propanol 45 504 756 958 NS 17,439 18,258 NS 22,119 24,223 NS 28,253 30,256 NS
 2-Butanol 59 605 5 6 NS 24,102 13,392 NS 48,638 26,446 ** 61,643 33,801 **

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Table 2  continued
1948

Compounds Iona Kovat’s ­indexb Day 1 Day 92 Day 139 Day 184
c
LD0 LD+ P LD0 LD+ P LD0 LD+ P LD0 LD+ P

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 2-Pentanol 45 703 ND ND – 2180 2493 NS 2657 3108 * 2459 2838 *
 2-Heptanol 45 900 ND ND – 371 341 NS 1005 1124 NS 768 743 NS
 2-Methyl-1-propanol 74 628 ND ND – 25 35 ** 108 102 NS 96 118 *
 2-Methyl-1-butanol 70 739 ND ND – 219 306 ** 726 902 NS 630 902 **
 3-Methyl-1-butanol 70 736 25 11 * 773 1907 NS 1788 1847 NS 1565 2132 *
 3-Methyl-2-butanol 45 683 ND ND – 156 185 NS 288 584 NS 189 440 NS
 4-Methyl-2-pentanol 45 792 ND ND – 248 304 NS 323 397 * 197 220 NS
 3-Methyl-3-buten-1-ol 68 735 58 68 ** 114 123 NS 149 180 * 141 169 ***
 Phenol 94 979 Nd Nd – 66 80 NS 26 37 NS 21 19 NS
Esters
 Methyl acetate 43 526 4 4 NS 44 61 NS 56 86 * 70 86 NS
 Methyl propanoate 88 630 ND ND – ND TR – 2 9 *** 5 15 **
 Methyl butanoate 74 723 ND ND – 5 4 NS 1 6 NS 4 8 *
 Ethyl acetate 61 614 3 4 NS 49 53 NS 82 124 NS 137 210 *
 Ethyl propanoate 57 712 ND ND – 84 107 NS 439 693 ** 728 1304 ***
 Ethyl butanoate 88 801 ND ND – 93 126 NS 179 262 ** 309 413 *
 Ethyl hexanoate 88 997 ND ND – 98 38 NS 66 96 ** 111 146 **
 Propyl acetate 61 715 ND ND – 28 62 ** 293 448 NS 593 1102 *
 Propyl propanoate 75 810 ND ND – 2 5 NS 68 130 ** 128 345 ***
 Propyl butanoate 89 897 ND ND – 3 7 NS 44 69 * 81 167 ***
 Butyl acetate 43 815 ND ND – 69 99 NS 162 260 NS 356 559 NS
 1-Methyl-propyl propanoate 57 850 ND ND – ND TR – 17 10 NS 31 24 NS
 1-Methyl-propyl butanoate 71 937 ND ND – ND ND – ND ND – 66 1 NS
 3-Methyl-butyl acetate 70 877 ND ND – 10 6 NS 52 59 NS 81 105 NS
Ketones
 2-Propanone 58 495 29,871 28,554 NS 1688 1078 NS 2281 1720 NS 1499 2089 ***
 2-Butanone 72 600 1296 1396 NS 9988 3837 ** 11,758 7127 ** 9396 5626 ***
 2-Pentanone 43 687 1205 918 *** 862 650 NS 1112 789 NS 609 580 NS
 2-Hexanone 58 791 1 2 NS 72 13 *** 18 15 NS 7 7 NS
 2-Heptanone 58 891 488 329 *** 1035 672 *** 1424 1105 NS 619 579 NS
 3-Heptanone 57 887 ND ND – 99 9 NS 16 6 NS 15 8 NS
 2-Octanone 58 992 ND ND – 89 9 NS 22 14 NS 5 4 NS
 2-Nonanone 58 1097 17 10 ** 124 80 *** 271 135 NS 105 80 NS
 3-Methyl-2-butanone 86 659 ND ND – 9 10 NS 16 58 NS 5 43 NS
 4-Methyl-2-pentanone 100 740 ND ND – 5 6 NS 15 21 NS 1 4 NS
Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955
Table 2  continued
Compounds Iona Kovat’s ­indexb Day 1 Day 92 Day 139 Day 184
c
LD0 LD+ P LD0 LD+ P LD0 LD+ P LD0 LD+ P
 3-Methyl-2-pentanone 72 754 ND ND – 64 54 NS 44 38 NS 11 10 NS
 Acetoin 88 712 984 1054 NS 80 39 * 62 27 NS 18 2 NS
 Diacetyl 86 589 1761 1338 ** 773 470 *** 940 592 * 438 415 NS
 2,3-Pentanedione 100 695 188 215 NS 13 6 * 39 44 NS 29 39 NS
 2,3-Hexanedione 71 795 ND ND – 2 2 NS 6 6 NS 3 3 NS
 Cyclopentanone 84 744 ND ND – 27 6 NS 12 28 ** 4 26 ***
 1-Phenyl ethanone 105 1077 ND ND – 31 44 NS 3 18 NS 15 13 NS
Sulphur compounds
Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955

 Carbon disulphide 76 535 174 192 NS 280 263 NS 309 382 NS 250 290 *
 Dimethyl sulphide 62 518 346 497 ** 1134 1223 NS 1748 2015 NS 1626 2490 *
 Dimethyl disulphide 94 747 52 62 NS 1111 1424 NS 2307 2911 NS 1966 1582 NS
 S-methyl thioacetate 90 702 ND ND – 8 17 *** 20 90 ** 15 34 NS
 2,4-Dithiapentane 61 896 ND ND – ND ND – 20 23 ** 24 28 NS

VFAs are expressed as mg/100 g cheese; neutral compounds are expressed as area value × 10 −3
NS not significant, – not analysed, ND not detected, TR traces
* P < 0.05; ** P < 0.01; *** P < 0.001. Mean comparison: different letters indicate different means by Bonferroni’s test, P < 0.05
a
  Specific ion used for area value record
b
  Retention index
c
  P value of GLM analysis

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1950 Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955

Variations in volatile compounds Fig. 1  PCA representation of cheeses at the end of ripening (184 days) ▸
according to their composition in volatile compounds at 184 days, phys-
ico-chemical and microbial data at different ripening times. a List of
Except terpenes (not shown), a total of 85 volatile com- volatile compounds added as active variables (in bold, compounds sig-
pounds was detected in the cheeses: 7 volatile fatty acids nificantly affected by LD addition): C2, acetic acid; C3, propionic acid;
(VFAs), 16 aldehydes, 17 alcohols, 23 esters, 17 ketones iC4, isobutyric acid; C4, butyric acid; 2MeC4, 2-methyl-butyric acid;
and 5 sulphur compounds (Table 2), including 9 esters acetald, acetaldehyde; butanal; hexanal; nonanal; propenal; 2Mpro-
panal, 2-methyl-propanal; 3Mbutanal, 3-methyl-butanal; 2Mbutanal,
found only in trace amounts and not listed in the table. 2-methyl-butanal; propanol, 1- propanol; butanol, 1-butanol; hexanol,
Only 68 of them were detected in cheeses on day 1 (75% 1-hexanol; 2butanol, 2-butanol; 2pentanol, 2-pentanol; 2Mpropanol,
of aldehydes, 60% of sulphur compounds, 53% of alco- 2-methyl-1-propanol; 3Mbutanol, 3-methyl-1-butanol; 2Mbutanol,
hols and ketones, 2 esters). Among the aldehydes, propanal 2-methyl-1-butanol; 3M1buten3ol, 3-methyl-1-buten-3-ol; propanone,
2-propanone; butanone, 2-butanone; M-C4, methyl butyrate; E-C2,
could not be quantified at this stage due to coelution with ethyl acetate; E-C3, ethyl propionate; E-C4, ethyl butyrate; E-C6,
2-propanone in high amounts. Globally, most compounds ethyl hexanoate; P-C2, propyl acetate; P-C3, propyl propionate; P-C4,
increased as ripening progressed, particularly esters and propyl butyrate; CDS, carbon disulphide; DMS, dimethyl sulphide; (in
alcohols, except 5 ketones that clearly decreased from day italics, compounds not significantly affected by LD addition): 3MeC4,
3-methyl-butyric acid; C6, hexanoic acid; propanal; pentanal; heptanal;
1 (2-propanone, 2-pentanone, diacetyl, acetoin, 2,3-pentan- octanal; benzald, benzaldehyde; ethanol; pentanol, 1-pentanol; 2pro-
edione) and 2 aldehydes (propanal, pentanal) that remained panol, 2-propanol; 2heptanol, 2-heptanol; phenol; pentanone, 2-pen-
at similar levels. One VFA (isobutyric acid), 5 aldehydes tanone; heptanone, 2-heptanone; octanone, 2-octanone; nonanone,
(heptanal, octanal, 2- and 3-methyl-butanal, benzaldehyde), 2-nonanone; acetoin; diacetyl; ptdione, 2,3-pentanedione; phethanone,
phenylethanone; M-C2, methyl acetate; B-C2, butyl acetate; 3 MB-C2,
4 alcohols (1-pentanol, 1-penten-3-ol, 4-methyl-2-pen- 3-methyl-butyl acetate; DMDS, dimethyl disulphide; MT-C2, methyl-
tanol, phenol), 7 ketones (2-hexanone, 2- and 3-heptanone, thio acetate. List of supplementary variables (underlined): microbial
2-octanone, 2-nonanone, 3-methyl-2-pentanone, 1-phenyl- counts: FHL, facultatively heterofermentative lactobacilli, PAB, propi-
ethanone) and 3 sulphur compounds (carbon disulphide, onic acid bacteria; LT, presumptive thermophilic lactobacilli; LD, Lac-
tobacillus delbrueckii; LH, Lactobacillus helveticus; ST, Streptococ-
dimethyl disulphide, S-methylthioacetate) reached maxi- cus thermophilus; physico-chemical data at 184 days: DM, dry matter;
mum levels during ripening, and then decreased. These MNFS, moisture in non-fat substance; FDM, fat in dry matter; NFDM,
variations were consistent with the results of Bosset et al. non-fat dry matter; Cl/W, NaCl/Water; WSN, water-soluble nitrogen in
[26, 27] in Gruyere or Thierry et al. [28] in Emmental, even total nitrogen; PTASN, phosphotungstic acid soluble nitrogen in total
nitrogen. b Observations: different symbols were given for different
if the range of variation differs between studies. Propionic cheese-making batches, black symbols for cheeses LD+, open symbols
acid concentrations were globally higher than expected for cheeses LD0
owing to the low temperature of ripening [18] and the low
levels of PAB [23], whereas the levels of other volatile fatty
acids were conform with values previously observed in its globally enhancing effect on over half the volatile
such cheeses by Bugaud et al. [18] (Abondance) and Berd- compounds, at one stage of ripening or more. All VFAs
agué et al. [29] (Comté ripened at 10 °C). It is interesting were enhanced with the LD addition, except caproic acid
that branched compounds (acids, aldehydes, alcohols) were (C6), which was never affected. Propionic (C3), isobu-
at their maximum at 139 days and then decreased. This tyric (iC4) and 2-methyl-butyric (2MeC4) acids were
was the time PAB and also presumptive ST were at a mini- affected throughout ripening, whereas butyric acid (C4)
mum level, before they increased again. Such compounds was affected after day 92, acetic acid (C2) only on day
may arise from branched amino acid catabolism. Following 184 and 3-methyl-butyric acid (3MeC4) before day 184
Ganesan et al. [30], such compounds may serve as inter- (Table 2). Among the aldehydes, the addition of LD was
mediates in energy production, transcription and translation associated with enhanced levels of butanal throughout
in nonculturable cells of lactococci. Following Dherbecourt ripening, acetaldehyde on days 139 and 184, and hexa-
et al. [31], branched fatty acids from amino acids may be nal on day 184, as well as with decreased levels of pro-
used in membrane-branched fatty acids synthesis in PAB. panal, pentanal and nonanal. On day 1, branched alde-
This observation may support the hypothesis of a metabol- hydes 3- and 2-methyl-butanal were more concentrated in
ical switch at 139 days that would favour the survival of LD0 cheeses, but during ripening concentrations of the
PAB cells. three branched aldehydes (including 2-methyl-propanal)
were higher in LD+ cheeses (from 33 to 84%). As far
Variability of volatile compounds: effect of LD as a as alcohols were concerned, concentrations of 1-butanol
starter were higher in LD+ cheeses throughout the process,
ethanol and 1-propanol from day 92, 1-hexanol from day
LD added as starter, through its own activity or through 139, and 2-pentanol on days 139 and 184. Higher levels
interactions with other microorganisms, seems to be a of 1-pentanol were observed in LD0 cheeses on day 92
determining contributor to cheese ripening, as seen by and 2-butanol on days 139 and 184. On day 1, higher

13
Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955 1951

Variables (axes F1 & F2 : 57,68 %)


a
P-C4
propanol
E-C4
PTASN
butanol acetald
E-C6 E-C2
P-C2
hexanol C4 LD1
B-C2
P-C3
C6 butanal E-C3
ST184 PAB48 C2
ST1 M-C4
DMS iC4 LT1
NFDM
propenal
2propanol 2MeC4
PAB184 M-C2 hexanal CDS C3
MT-C2 2Mpropanal
LT48
2butanol DM LT184 propanone
F2 (24,14 %)

2pentanol
3MeC4 2Mbutanal
ethanol WSN 3Mbutanal
acetoin PAB1 pH FHL184 3MB-C2
ST139 2Mbutanol
2heptanol 3M1buten3ol
LT92 2Mpropanol
PAB92 FHL139
FHL48 ST48
3Mbutanol
MNFS LT139
Cl/W
butanone FHL1 ptdione FDM
PAB139 pentanal benzald pentanone
FHL92
DMDS nonanal heptanal
pentanol
phenol octanal
propanal phethanone ST92 diacetyl
heptanone
octanone
LH1
nonanone

F1 (33,55 %)

Observaons (axes F1 & F2 : 57,68 %)


b 8

2
F2 (24,14 %)

-2

-4

-6

-8
-12 -10 -8 -6 -4 -2 0 2 4 6 8 10 12
F1 (33,55 %)

amounts of 3-methyl-1-butanol, the only branched alco- The LD addition increasingly affected esters as ripen-
hol present at this stage, were found in LD0 cheeses. On ing progressed (1/11 on day 92, 8/13 on day 139), with
the contrary, during ripening, the effect of the LD addi- a major effect on day 184 (13/14). When significant,
tion observed on the three branched alcohols resulted in the effect of the LD addition always resulted in higher
globally higher levels in LD+ cheeses (from 37 to 60%). concentrations in LD+ cheeses. Ketones, when affected

13

1952 Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955

by the LD addition, were found in lower amounts in positively correlated to LD at day 1 and LT at day 1. They
the LD+ cheeses, except for 2-propanone on day 184, were mainly esters (ethyl, propyl), aldehydes (acetaldehyde,
whereas 4/5 sulphur compounds increased with the LD butanal, hexanal, propenal), 1-propanol and dimethyl sul-
addition at one or more ripening stages. There is no evi- phide. This last group was positively correlated to PTASN/
dence of a direct role of the LD strain L139 in the for- TN (esters, acetaldehyde) and negatively to NaCl/W content
mation of the compounds that were enhanced because of (hexanal, propenal, propyl acetate and propyl propionate).
decreasing plate counts as ripening progressed and loss This figure highlights the difficulty to interpret correlations
of cultivability after day 48. However, even if acidify- between bacterial counts and volatile compounds. Whereas
ing starter cells lose their cultivability, they may remain the relationships with FHL at the end of ripening seem to
metabolically active during ripening [32, 34], so a direct match, observations made with PAB at the same time are
role of LD added as a starter cannot be excluded. Oth- not relevant and may result from the above-mentioned break
erwise, LD may favour the activity of other microbial in their dynamics. Hence, the production of expected com-
groups by providing them with nutrients. Some cells may pounds from PAB metabolism, i.e. propionic fermentation
have died and lysed, and then have released molecules in and isoleucine catabolism could be related to PAB counts
the matrix. Sgarbi et al. [34] have shown that mesophilic at the end of logarithmic phase, at day 92, at the maximum
lactobacilli can use the lysis products of LH cells as a of counts. Physico-chemical variables that were involved
unique energy source. Irrespective of cell lysis, the nitro- in correlations may be linked also to the formation of com-
gen compounds produced by LD in our cheeses may have pounds, because pH, salt or free amino acid contents may
affected the activity of the secondary microbiota. Fur- be important for metabolic activities. In the case of salt, the
thermore, compounds released by LD may serve as pre- compounds that were involved reflected PAB activity, i.e.
cursors for some enzymatic activities. Lastly, LD added propionic acid fermentation (C3) and isoleucine catabolism
as a starter may have modified the balance between other (2MeC4). This is consistent with the particular sensitivity of
microbial populations. The counts of microbial groups on PAB to NaCl level. We can then suppose that besides these
M17, MRS or FH agar plates are not informative about compounds, iC4, 2-methyl-propanal, 2-pentanol, carbon
the species present during ripening. disulphide may also originate from PAB metabolism. As an
example, Richoux et al. [35] described an effect on propi-
Variability of volatile compounds: effect of other onic acid fermentation with 4–5 times less VFA production
bacterial groups when NaCl/W increased from 1 to 3%. In our cheeses, vari-
ations of NaCl/W from 3.25 to 3.96% did not modify the
A principal component analysis (PCA) (Fig. 1) was used to growth of PAB, but were sufficient to influence PAB activity
illustrate the correlations between volatile compounds of and decrease C3 and 2MeC4 production (respectively, from
cheeses at the end of ripening and other compositional data, 304 to 138 and from 1.9 to 0.4 mg/100 g). Hence, correla-
in particular the dynamics of the different bacterial groups. tions identified with microbial and physico-chemical vari-
We can distinguish three main groups of compounds. The ables may be of interest.
positive end of the first axis was characterized by the pres-
ence of branched compounds (aldehydes, alcohols, acids), Effect of LD addition on the formation of volatile
C3, carbon disulphide, 2-propanone, and 2-pentanol that compounds
were enhanced by LD addition and positively correlated to
presumptive thermophilic lactobacilli (LT) at day 1, FHL at Propionic acid fermentation
days 139 and 184, ST at day 139, PAB at day 92 and con-
versely to PAB at day 184. pH at day 184 was positively In hard cooked cheeses, propionic fermentation by PAB
correlated to aldehydes and alcohols of this group, whereas provides the major part of C3 together with C2. C3 and
NaCl/W was negatively correlated to acids and some other related esters are important flavour compounds because
compounds (C3, iC4, 2MeC4, 2-methyl-propanal, 2-pen- of their characteristic sweet aroma typical of Swiss-type
tanol, carbon disulphide). A second group was correlated cheeses. An indirect impact of LD, via cooperation with
with the negative end of the second axis, not affected by PAB, may explain the strong positive relation between
LD addition nor by LD at day 1 and LT at day 1, and was the LD addition and C3. In our cheeses, in the presence
mostly made of methyl- and di- ketones, which were simi- of LD, levels of C3 increased throughout ripening from
larly correlated to the above-cited bacterial groups and fat 38 to 57%, while the growth of PAB was not affected, and
content. Moreover, LH at day 1 was negatively correlated to even decreased at the end of ripening. Bouton et al. [14]
these ketones, and also to some aldehydes (propanal, pen- in Comté and Kerjean et al. [15] and Thierry et al. [16]
tanal, heptanal, octanal, benzaldehyde). The compounds in Emmental have already observed higher levels of C3
of the third group were enhanced by LD addition and and/or C2 when LD was added to starters. However, PAB

13
Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955 1953

growth and metabolism are not necessarily commensurate, of the LD addition on dimethyl sulphide in our cheeses
as already mentioned by Kerjean et al. [15], which would seems to confirm the ability of LD to catabolise methio-
explain the effect of adding LD on C3 but not on PAB nine, as shown in fermented milk by Imhof et al. [45], with
counts. In this study, LD possibly favoured PAB activity by the production of (di)methyl-sulphide and (di)methyl-disul-
providing peptides, as suggested by Thierry et al. [16, 36]. phide by Lb. delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus. However, a
contribution of LD by providing free methionine as precur-
Amino acid catabolism sor cannot be excluded.

The catabolism of amino acids in cheese is of major inter- Esters and related compounds
est because after sugar exhaustion, amino acids remain the
main source of energy and nutrients for bacterial survival Ethanol, 1-propanol, 1-butanol and 1-hexanol are of lit-
[37]. Branched VFAs (iC4, 2MeC4, 3MeC4), aldehydes tle interest in themselves as flavourful compounds, but
(2-methyl-propanal, 2-methyl-butanal, 3-methyl-butanal), are important as precursors of many esters in Swiss-type
and alcohols (2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-methyl-1-butanol, cheeses. They come from the reduction of the correspond-
3-methyl-1-butanol) are compounds from the catabolism ing aldehydes by alcohol dehydrogenase. Such an activity
of branched amino acids valine, isoleucine and leucine. has been measured in vitro in some LD strains by Keenan
Many of these volatile compounds may be involved in and Lindsay [46], and Helinck et al. [39] as well as in our
cheese flavour, in particular VFAs with cheesy notes, and starter LD strain L139 (unpublished results). The enhancing
aldehydes with a malty flavour [38]. In our cheeses, all the effect of the LD addition on these alcohols in our cheeses
bacterial groups studied may contribute to such catabo- suggests that this enzyme may operate in cheese conditions
lism, as revealed by the enhancing effect of LD on many provided starter strain remained metabolically active. As
of these compounds from day 92 to 184, and the correla- acetaldehyde, butanal and hexanal were similarly affected,
tions observed between FHL and these same compounds LD may also contribute to the formation of these precursor
at the end of ripening (not shown). According to Helinck compounds, as already observed for acetaldehyde [43–48].
et al. [39] and Williams et al. [40], cells of thermophilic Propanal was inversely affected, so another population may
starters and of NSLAB were able to produce in vitro produce this compound [49], and then LD reduces it. LH at
branched volatile compounds from branched amino acids day 1 was positively correlated with this compound.
via transamination. This metabolic route requires the suc- With their characteristic fruity flavours, esters are key
cession of different enzymes, aminotransferase, decarboxy- compounds for the desirable sweet and fruity notes of
lase, dehydrogenase, with α-ketoacid availability being a Swiss-type cheeses [50]. Their formation in cheese would
limiting substrate for transamination, the first reaction. The be due to enzymatic activity, as lactic acid bacteria and
occurrence and activity of amino acid converting enzymes PAB possess esterases. In most cheese varieties, the major-
in lactobacilli are species and strain dependent [41, 42] ity of esters are ethyl esters, whereas in our cheeses we
and possibly the realisation of such a metabolic route recovered a noteworthy higher diversity, in accordance
requires complementation between strains, as suggested with Liu et al. [50]. Such diversity may require long rip-
by Helinck et al. [39] for LD and ST. Indeed, aminotrans- ening periods because of the late formation, as observed
ferase activities have been measured in vitro in our L139 in our cheeses. This delay may be due to the need for suf-
strain (unpublished results), which hence may be able to ficient amounts of precursors, acids and alcohols. A glob-
perform transamination, but not glutamate dehydrogenase ally enhancing effect of the LD addition was observed for
activity that may produce α-ketoglutarate as a substrate for esters, which increased over time, so on day 184, all the
transamination. major esters had been significantly affected, except for the
The sulphur compounds resulting from methionine esters derived from the three branched alcohols, which
catabolism are key flavour compounds in all cheeses were in low amounts. On the one hand, LD may have
because of their potent sulphur odour. Carbon disulphide favoured the formation of esters because they enhanced the
and S-methyl-thioacetate in our cheeses on day 184 were production of alcohols and/or VFAs as precursors. On the
correlated with branched volatile compounds and glob- other hand, these bacteria may also possess esterase activi-
ally showed the same patterns of variation, so the mecha- ties, although weaker than ST and PAB [50], as evidenced
nisms of formation may be the same. Indeed, methionine in by El Soda et al. [51], Oliszewski et al. [52] or Zourari
cheese may be catabolised by lactic acid bacteria through et al. [48] in strains of both Lb. delbrueckii subsp. bulga-
transamination [43]. However, lyases can also cleave the ricus and Lb. delbrueckii subsp. lactis. Of all populations
lateral chain and cystathionine lyase activity that poten- of our cheeses, only LD has been identified as positively
tially degrades methionine has been shown in vitro in LD, correlated with esters, which supports LD involvement in
principally subspecies bulgaricus [44]. Besides, the effect this synthesis.

13

1954 Eur Food Res Technol (2017) 243:1943–1955

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Faurie, Romain Palme, and Marie-Odile Coquillard for their technical quality of European hard-cheeses by controlling of interac-
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