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Tablesaw
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CONTENTS
10 Ways to Tablesaw Success. 1
3 Must-have Tables.aw Jigs. 4
Rip-fence saddle 10
How to Clean and Lube
Your Tables.aw 11
A Safe Way to Make
Raised PaneIs. 12
SHOPTlPS
Ctamp-on Edge Guide 15
Compound Miter Jig 15
Sure-shootin' Hold-Down 16
Making Stronger Doors. 16
Rip Fence on Wheels. 17
Tune in to J-channel 17
Letter from the Editor Extension Table 17
Rabbeted Tablesaw Fence 18
Glue Your Setscrews. 18
Thanks for subscribing to WOOD® magazine. Whether Tables.aw Shelves. 18
you're new to the magazine, or a long-time subscriber, I CIearH:Ut Uds for Boxes. 19
Cut Slats for Toy Trucks. 19
want to take this opportunity to thank you for your business, Safety Tongue Stay Put 19
and to tell you about our commitment to providing you with Micro-adjust Your Saw 20
Coffee-can saw-blade Spacers. 20
the very best woodworking magazine available. Pushblock for Small Pieces. .20
On the table of contents in every issue of the magazine Extend the SCope of Your saw. 21
Cutting Cove Moldings. 21
you'll find our vow to "build every project, verify every fact,
Editor-In-Chief Bill
and test every reviewed tool in our workshop to guarantee Executive Editor JIM
your success and complete satisfaction." To carry through Managing Editor MARLEI
Publication Designer RAY
on this pledge, one or more of our staff craftsmen proves Senior Vice PresldentJPublishing IIirec8r OlSDN
every step in every project, every dimension in every Group Publisher TOM
Publisher MARK HAGBI
drawing, every claim in a tool review, plus hundreds of other MEREDITH PUBLISHING GROll'
details in every issue. This approach is what separates us President JACK GRiffiN
Editorial Director MIKE LAFAVURE
from our competitors. It's costly and time-consuming, but Finance and Administration KARLA JEfRES
Manufacturing BRUCE HESTlIlI
it's the only way to ensure your absolute trust in everything Consumer Marketing DAVID BAll
Creative Services ELLEN de LATHOUIIBI
we show and tell you. Corporate Sales JACK BRAMBERGER
Interactive Media LAUREN WIENER
If we ever fail to meet your expectations, let me know Corporate Marketing NANCY WEBER
Reasearch BRmA WARE
immediately, okay? Just contact me by any of the means
listed in every issue of the magazine. I promise we'll deal A1~~~~
President and Chief Executive Officer STEPHEN M. LACY
with your "issue" immediately. Chairman of the Board WIWAM T. KERR
www.woodmagazine.com
Cover the angles.
4 To ensure accurate crosscuts, make sure the miter gauge is
accurate at 90° and 45°. Rest one edge of a plastic drafting
triangle on the blade body-not on the teeth. Loosen the miter gauge
knob, slide the head against the triangle, and then lock the knob, as
shown at left. Do the same at 45°. These triangles are available in
artist's supply stores and are very accurate. Adjustable models also
are available.
Wax tables for smooth sliding. Take time for regular maintenance.
9 Cast-iron saw tables will rust if left
bare, which prevents workpieces
from sliding freely. You can get rid of
rust by spraying the table with penetrat-
10 Your saw will run better and last longer if you take care of it
on a rrgular basis. Do the following every month or two:
• Wipe sawdust and debris from the saw table. Spray protectant or
polish the table with wax several times per year.
ing oil (such as WD-40) and scrubbing • Vacuum, blow, or brush sawdust from the trunnions and lubricate
with a synthetic steel-wool pad or 220-grit per the manufacturers instructions.
wet/dry sandpaper. Form a barrier to new • Tum blade-height and bevel handwheels through their full range of
rust by coating the table with a commer- motion, and check 45° and 90° stops.
cial product such as Top-Cote (available • Use blade-and-bit cleaner to remove pitch from your saw blade.
from Woodcraft at 800/225-1153), or by Oven cleaner works, but is caustic. Try Formula 409-brand cleaner for
applying a couple coats of paste wax to minor cleanups.
the table and buffing it out well. Recoat • Check the condition of drive belts, and replace them if cracked or
the table every few months to prevent rust worn. Check pulley setscrews, and tighten if necessary.
from coming back. • Make sure all electrical cords and connections are in good condition. •
www.woodmagazine.com 3
3must-have tablesawjigs
Build one or all, and boost your precision for pennies.
sk a few seasoned woodwork- this trio of tablesaw jigs, building See the Buying Guide on page 9
:y.'
Sometimes you need to rip several
thin strips of wood to equal thickness
to serve as edging, veneer, or bending
stock, but slicing off thin stock on the
fence side of the blade could prove
unsafe. That's because it becomes awk-
ward to use your blade guard and push-
stick when you cut close to the fence.
The solution: Run the wide portion of
your workpiece between the fence and
blade, cutting the strips on the side of Miter-slot guide bar
the blade opposite the fence. You could
accomplish this by measuring for each
cut, but that's tedious and inaccurate.
This thin-strip ripping jig does the job cut. Drive a brass screw halfway into
safely, accurately, and quickly. the wood. (We used brass to avoid
any chance of damaging a tablesaw
First, build thejig blade.) You'll tum this screw in or out
Cut a piece of 314" plywood to the to fine-tune your jig's basic "zero"
1 dimensions shown for the base on
Drawing 1. Cut a dado on the bottom
setting, or to adjust it for a blade of
different thickness or with a different
side of the base for the guide bar, where tooth set.
shown. Now, cut the %" dado on the From the bottom side of the
top side of the base for the sliding bar.
Cut two pieces of maple to size for
S assembly, drill and countersink a
1;4" hole through the miter-slot guide
2 the miter-slot guide bar (adjust the
dimensions shown if necessary to fit
bar and base for the machine screw
that holds the plastic knob. Sand all of
your tablesaw's slots) and the sliding the wood parts to 180 grit, and apply
bar. Center the miter-slot guide bar in three coats of clear finish.
the bottom dado, and glue it in place. Make a mark 1" from the left end
Drill a pair of 5/16" holes in the sliding
bar where shown, scrollsaw the materi-
6 of the sliding bar. Cut the first
1Yz" from an inexpensive steel rule,
To make a cursor, scribe a line across
the middle of the acrylic indicator with a
sharp knife and a combination square.
al between them, and smooth the inside align its left end with the mark, and Color the scribed line with a permanent
of the slot with a file. attach it with epoxy. marker. Wipe off the excess ink with a
Set the jig in your tablesaw's left Cut a piece of 1;4" acrylic plastic to
3 miter-gauge slot. Place the sliding
bar in the dado with its left end flush
7 the dimensions shown for the indi-
cator. Drill and countersink the two
cloth or paper towel, leaving a fine line.
5
www.woocimagazine.com
.
strip thickness, and retighten the knob.
Position your workpiece against the
rip fence, and move the fence to bring
the left edge of the workpiece against
the screw head, as shown in Photo B.
Lock the fence in place, set the jig out
of the way, and you're ready to cut a
strip, as shown in Photo C.
After completing the cut, clean up
the workpiece on the jointer. Replace
the jig in the slot. Then unlock the rip
fence, move it to bring the jointed edge
against the screw head, lock the rip
fence, remove the jig, and saw another
strip. Repeat the process as many times
as necessary to produce all of the strips Size your thin-strip ripping jig to suit your Remove the jig before making the cut so
tablesaw, so that a 1" screw in the guide the workpiece doesn't bind between the
that you need for your project. bar can contact the blade. Install a zero- rip fence and the screw head. Replace the
clearance throat plate to prevent the sawn jig in the slot without making any adjust-
strip from falling into the saw. ments to set up the next cut.
You can
3 Y4x /sxI2";
3 then cut two 3"
pieces and one 3112" piece from
where shown on Drawing 2a. Now,
drill two holes to form the ends of the
taper one side of this blank for the guide bars. For adjustment slot, remove the material
a table leg without the hold-down bases, cut a piece of 314" between the holes with a coping saw or
much head-scratching, plywood to IY2xI2". Cut a W' groove scrollsaw, and clean up the slot with a
but tapering all four sides down the center of one face of this file. Cut a W' groove centered on the
equally presents more of a plywood, where dimensioned on the bottom edge of the blank. Next, drill
challenge. With this jig, however, you drawing. Drill two W' holes near oppo- a W' hole centered in the groove 2W'
can cut all four tapers without chang- site ends of the groove, with each hole from the rabbeted end. Glue in the 3W'
ing your setup. You simply rotate your centered in the groove and W' from guide bar piece, making it flush with
workpiece between cuts. the end. Cut a 3" piece from each end the rabbeted end. After the glue dries,
Locate the hold-downs to suit the to make two hold-down bases. Next, drill a W' hole through the blank, using
length of your workpiece. (The pivot glue one guide bar piece in the groove the previously drilled hole as a guide.
block can sit at either end of the jig.) If on each hold-down base. After the Trim the blank to 3W' in length. Sand
your tablesaw has a 10" blade, you can glue dries, drill a W' hole through each and finish the assembly.
handle workpieces up to 2" thick.
~
_ ' - machine screw,
,I." ", V4" nylon nut .... -: / nut and washer
1/2 ~ 9/3 2" slot . ::;;; "-0
(~~ 0/4 x 1'12 X 3" plywood
------- ~- /~
deep,
3/'6"
centered
,
I
V4" groove-.......-.-/ : V4 X 3/8 X 3"
guide bar
==-::-~
V4' groove
deep, centered
~, i "1
i V4 x 3/8 X 3'12"
~i~9=--uide bar
machine screw 12"~
~
V4 x 3" panhead
machine screw
www.woodmagazine.com
. 7
0 ever, with a well-made crosscut along the front of the bottom edge and
Dead-on 90 crosscut sled sled. Making right-angle cutting a Vz" groove centered along the top
easier and safer, our design is both edge.
simple and cheap to build. And it From 314" maple, cut the blade
includes adjustable, reliable stops
for repeatable cuts and dead-on
3 guard sides and end. Glue and
screw the end to the sides. Now, screw
accuracy. the blade guard to the fence, where
shown on Drawing 3.
Build areal workhorse Cut the front rail from 3;4" maple.
Front rail
3/4 X18x30"
plywood
Blade guard
( #8 x 1V2' F.H.
3" wood screw
Buying Guide
Hardware. Stainless steel rules no. 06K20.06; 1W
four-arm plastic knob no. 00M55.30. Call Lee Valley at
800/871-8158, or go to www.leevalley.com.
Hold-down with bolt and knob, no. 145831; self-adhe-
sive rule, no. 08Y42. Call Woodcraft at 8001225-1153,
or go to www.woodcraft.com.
www.woodInagazine.com 9
rip-fence
saddle
An inexpensive, shop-builtjig for
top-notch machining and joinery
B
uild this auxiliary wood fence and
mating saddle to support stiles and other
workpieces while machining end grain.
Use one hand to push the saddle and work-
piece across the blade, and your other hand to
keep the saddle riding firmly on the auxiliary
fence. Wax the mating pieces if necessary for
easy sliding.
% x 2 x 8" stock
www.woodmagazine.com 11
asafewayto
makeraised
aised panels have long been viewed
) 1r
method does have one drawback: You'll Shoulder Shoulder
need to invest time and elbow grease into
finish-sanding the panel bevels.
To solve the challenge of supporting
panels safely while cutting bevels, make the
easy-to-build panel-cutting sled shown 'V.' raised panels
in Drawing 1 and 2 on the opposite page.
0/4:" dadoes
~
U J
11V2
f-------28"-----------o-j
4~: t 7~jp'
'
14"_ j
Materials key: MDF-medium-den- U PAN EL-CUTTING SLED EXPLODED1VIEW
V4'
" , 1 W bm"
F.H. wood screw
k : 11 W_'_ , 1
;-i
sity fiberboard, M-maple. ___ ~...J-.- ) E i %2'
Supplies: #8x1 W', #8x1" brass Curve on this edge :0 ... ,"" L.
1"....... pilot hole
flathead wood screws; V,-20x2" (2), %-20 x 41/2' F.H. ~ ''.''
V4-20x4 W' (2) flathead machine
screws; V,-20 four-arm knobs maC-lhinescre;our_arm 'V16" hole .';''' t~c2k~~a1d~i-~~f-'·"""-- ®
(4); V4' flat washers (8); 1V2xo/a" / knob F 29
" I
.......1"
sandpaper
"- --.
U ri ht
P g
compression springs (2); V,-20
knife thread insert (2); 4" adhesive
backed 120-grit sandpaper. r~".
.. __.. b~!is
--. '''. • -- """
#8 x 1"
F.H. wood screw
Fo~~~rm ::.:--==~~~;;
Blades and bits: V4' flat washer Compressi~~ ~? '::.: . __ 3"
Stack dado cutter. 1" spnng ( ""
V4' flat washer E Ij: _.
!Va" counterbore V4' deep with a I~
0/16" hole centered inside -""'"0/.
%-20 knife thread insert
www.woodmagazine.com 13
Adjust the blade to match your bevel
D PANEL KERFS DEFINE SHOULDERS Place the panel into the sled with the exterior face out. To adjust the angle and
height of the saw blade, sight down the blade, and align it with the layout
marks, as shown below. Clamp a test piece into the sled and run it through.
Readjust the settings until the angle and bevel thickness are dead-on accurate.
PANEL
FACE
, \
; I
burning will occur. The following set-up be cut in four passes through the saw.
procedure assumes that your miter-gauge First, cut across the end grain to reduce
slot aligns parallel with your saw blade. If chip-out. Then cut the bevels on the
not, make that adjustment. panel edges. Move through the blade at a
To cut a raised panel with shoulders Then, with a steel rule, measure the consistent speed, slowing down only if
(the square lip on the face of the panel), distance from the saw blade to the sled's the saw strains.
first adjust the tablesaw's fence 1%" from upright. Move the sled side to side as Note:-lf your saw bogs down in the cut,
the blade. Cut a saw kerf Vg" deep (3/16" needed so the distance between the blade you may need to use a thin-kerf blade or
deep if making proud panels) and 1%" and the sled is the same as the panel's make the cut in stages, using succes-
from all four edges and ends of the panel's tongue (and rabbet) thickness. When the sively deeper passes.
face, as shown in Drawing 3. This kerf upright is the correct distance from the
will determine the shoulder location. blade, and parallel to the blade, tighten Sand the panel bevels
down the knobs in the guide strip. Now, Remove any saw marks with 100-grit
Set up the sled for smooth, adjust the blade bevel. See "Adjust the sandpaper and a hardwood block.
accurate cuts blade to match your bevel," above. Finish-sand the bevels with 150- and
For your sled to function well, it must slide nO-grit sandpaper. Take care when
parallel to the saw blade with its upright at Let's cut araised panel sanding not to remove the ridge at the
a right angle to the saw's tabletop. With Clamp your panel into the sled, exterior intersection of the bevels. Stain the
either out of alignment, scoring and face out, and cut the bevels. Panels can panels before you assemble the door.
www.woodmagazine.com 15
...- - - - - - - - - - - - - CAULKING GUN MAKES A SURE-SHOOTIN' HOLD-DOWN
45° chamfer
CLAMP"DETAIL
~
o Nylon nut
a hardwood block as shown in the Clamp detail drawing at right. The block UHMW self-adhesive
moves back and forth in a channel on the panel jig, which I built as shown. on end of pad
To use the clamp, I simply slide it over my workpiece. A few quick
squeezes of the trigger secures the piece for a safe cut.
-Rusty Bentzinger, Leighton, Iowa
Aluminum J-channel
(¥4 x 1W' aluminum angle
also would work)
.cR\:'Dustinsert
--:.. -
hole
box is glued EXTENSION TABLE PULLS EXTENDED DUTY
or siliconed to I already have my router mounted in the extension wing of my tablesaw
bottom side of to save space. But when I wanted to build a downdraft sanding table, I
insert plate.
'/2 x 2" stock figured out a way to get triple duty out of the extension and opening.
First, I cut a second acrylic insert the exact size of the one for my router.
Hole centered . . ..........
Then, I marked out and drilled a gridwork of 5/16" holes spaced 3/4" apart in
-s
in bottom -:::::---.::::- - 1 :Va" plywood
1 ',. ( bottom the insert. Next, I built a dust box, as shown at left. Finally, I glued the
Dust collection box to the bottom of the acrylic insert.
connector or PVC #6 x 1" F.H. wood screw Now when I need to sand a project, I lift out the router, drop in the sand-
tube siliconed
into hole in bottom Dust collection ing insert, connect the dust-collection hose, and sand away. My shop stays
cleaner, and I still have room to move around. -Martin Beijer, Castak, Calif.
www.woodmagazine.com . 17
TRIM PANELS FLUSH WITH A RABBETED SUPPORT TABLESAW SHELVES WITH
...- - - - - - - - - - - - TABLESAW FENCE ANGLE-IRON RAILS
You've glued some solid-wood flush. If you don't have a flush-trim
edging on a set of plywood panels, router bit, is hand-planing the only Bolt shelves
to angle iron.
and now it's time to trim the edging solution? If you own a tablesaw,
you're just an auxiliary fence away
from a super-quick solution. Make
a Ix6" wooden auxiliary fence for
your tablesaw and cut a rabbet in
Wooden its face exactly as wide as the kerf
auxiliary of your blade. Attach the auxiliary
fence
fence to your regular rip fence and
position it so that the outside edge
of the blade is flush with the
Rip outside face of the auxiliary fence,
.:fence
as shown in the drawings at left and
below. Then, run your workpiece
along the fence to trim off the
excess edging. We used a 50-tooth,
Every time you switch from the miter gauge
carbide-tipped blade for clean,
to the rip fence, you have to walk across
splinter-free results.
the shop to put one or the other down. Then
-from the WOOD® magazine shop
there's the problem of where to store the
pushstick and other tablesaw accessories.
Solve this dilemma by building a pair of
shelves below your tablesaw top, using two
pieces of angle iron and some 3/4" plywood
or particleboard. Cut two pieces of Ysxlxl"
angle iron as long as the total length of your
tablesaw top, extensions included. Mount
the angle iron just above the joint where the
legs and the saw enclosure meet, using three
equally spaced 5/16X2" machine bolts. (If the
saw's power switch or handle interferes, bolt
the angle iron to the legs.)
Attach the shelves to the angle iron using
Y4" machine screws, lock washers, and nuts.
Countersink the heads of the screws into the
GLUE SETSCREWS FOR A TEMPORARY GRIP shelves. A strip of lx2 glued and screwed to
the outside end of each shelf will keep acces-
My tablesaw's throat insert sories from falling off.
used to cause me a lot of grief. -Marvin Ring, Corvallis, Ore.
Vibration loosened the setscrews
over time, and the insert dropped
down below the tabletop. When
I tried to rip a board, the bottom
edge of the forward end would
catch, resulting in an end grain QUICK SAWING TIPS
tear-out. • Keep the good side of stock up when cutting on
To keep the setscrews firmly in a tablesaw, bandsaw, scrollsaw, radial-arm saw, or
place, I put a dab of Loctjte 242 compound mitersaw. With a portable circular saw or
on the threads. The thread-locker handheld jigsaw, the good side should face down.
prevents the setscrews from
• Place a feather board in front of the blade on a
moving, but a hearty twist with
tablesaw. If it's next to the blade, it can pinch the stock
an allen wrench break& the bond.
being sawn against the blade, causing kickback.
-R.J. Lemerise, Utic'li, Mich.
QUICK TIP
• Don't have a container to put your circular-saw blades in for
cleaning? A plastic oil-change pan from an auto-parts store
works just great.
www.woodmagazine.com 19
...
USE PLAYING CARDS TO MICRO-ADJUST YOUR TABLESAW FENCE
If you stack your tablesaw or circular-saw blades for storage or transport them
to a sharpener, you need spacers between them to prevent the carbide teeth
from chipping each other. But rather than go to the trouble and expense of cut-
ting out hardboard or plywood spacers, just save a few of the plastic lids that
come on three-pound coffee cans. Bore a hole the size of your saw's arbor in
the center of these, and place them between your blades.
-Ken Kraft, Boise, Idaho
Cut notch to fit workpiece. CUSTOM PUSH BLOCK SAFER FOR SMALL PIECES
I needed to chamfer the edges of a small block of wood to make a decorative
" post cap. But when I tried to use my regular pushstick, the tablesaw blade
twisted the block away from the
fence, gouging the workpiece
beyond repair.
To keep the workpiece under
control, I built a custom pushblock
from 2x4 scrap, as shown at left.
By cutting a notch in the scrap to
fit the workpiece, the pushblock
Workpiece holds the work firmly when making
the cut and prevents the saw blade
Cut notch depth V32" from twisting and pulling the stock
less than the thickness
of the workpiece. away from the fence.
FRONT VIEW -Richard Rosencrans, Cody, Wyo.
Saw blade tilted 3:"']'
to 45°
Saw blade
Cut hardboard
template to the same
diameter as saw blade.
www.woodmagazine.com 21
AWARDED MOST INNOVATIVE
History has a tendency of repeating itself and it has with the revolutionizing
POWERMATIC PM2000 10" Tablesaw. Following its time-honored Model 66, the
PM2000 has it all and then some. Equipped with the industry's first arbor lock,
an integrated caster system, a true quick release riving knife and blade guard
system, this machine is a powerhouse. Backed with the industry's most durable
5-year warranty, this line comes in 12 variations. Find the model most suitable
to your needs at a local POWERMATIC dealer or at www.powermatic.com/wood