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SHOSHI

Lauren Aquino
Shoshin Dialogue
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TOKYO
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Tokyo is a city rife with harmo-


ny—that of quiet streets and
bustling sidewalks; a sense of ur-
gency and a prevailing serenity. In
a city of glass and concrete, life
finds its way through the cracks
and towards the rising sun. Green
is saturated against the muted
Through it all, an undeniable
tones of steel. Geometry is dis-
sense of respect for one another
rupted by organic and fre e - f l o w -
and their own humble place in the
ing forms. This juxtaposition is
world makes itself known. Tokyo
paralleled by the people who
is not only lively school children
w a l k t h e s t re e t s : w i s e o b a a s a n
or ivy crawling across a building,
w a t c h o v e r l a u g h i n g c h i l d re n a s
a lone fisherman or power lines
trains speed above them, clean
stretching over the sky. It is all
a n d b e a u t i f u l i n t h e i r efficiency.
of these things existing, thriving,


being.

// Ginza, Sophia University


Day 1: May 20, 2019


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Today it rained. A small monsoon. pour, bouncing smells and light soaked, a gradient reaching
Water flooded the streets, small within the droplets with aimless for knees. Soles squeaked and
rivers trickling along gutters and abandon. The people of Japan hair dripped. We took refuge in
pouring from storm drains. The took up their umbrellas, a sea storefronts, tile floors slippery,
water purified as it flowed, a of plastic under the sprawling but clean. Cool strawberry sweet
cleansing ritual perfected by fog. They bumped and jostled cream was a blessing in the
time. The narrow sidewinders and across the behemoth crosswalks muggy heat, a complement to
vast streets welcomed the down- of Shibuya, a hexagonal garden syrupy streets.
watered by the rain. Hems were

Day 2: May 21, 2019


// Shinjuku

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RAIN
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Day 3: May 22, 2019

Borderless Museum
// Sophia University,
YEL–
LOW Pops of yellow are fitting for the
country of the rising sun. The
palette of Tokyo is that of muted
color. Projectors dashed every
hue of the rainbow, which floated
in balloons and upon the backs
concrete and shiny blue glass, of whales. Lanterns speckled a
dotted with greenery. The people mirrored room, lights dangling
of Japan have added their own from the ceiling. Looking into
accents to the rainbow, some- my reflection, I was transported

万 thing to brighten their day. into a new world—the underbelly


teamLab’s Borderless Museum of Tokyo.
was its own kaleidoscope of

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CALLI–
GRAPH
Japan’s culture is closely
intertwined with its religious and
historical relations to China, and
this is clearly mirrored through
the art of calligraphy, a precise
practice of hooks, fades, and
stops. We watched a gentle
woman, graceful in her yukaata,
as she carefully made her
strokes, the movement traveling
along her arm. She was firm in gate with a large lantern dangling
her intention, but the result was from its beams. Crimson dusted
one of elegance. Our clumsy the surrounding shops, creating a
attempts were a scratch on the festival-like atmosphere. The en-
surface of an art that some ergy was amplified by the vendors
dedicate their lives learning. hawking their wares, the rich aro-
Afterwards, we visited a torii mas of street food, the raucous
laughter of schoolchildren.


Day 4: May 23, 2019


// Asakusa

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LOCAL ART
Day 5: May 24, 2019
// Harajuku, Design Festa Gallery,
Keio University Hospital

skyscrapers looming above them. Yet,


the people of Japan are not so easily
enamored by these behemoths—thrift
stores are crowded with people, tiny
restaurants have lines around the
back. In the maze of stores and
brands, Design Festa Gallery quietly
thrives, embracing the unknown,
supporting the underdogs. Talented
and unrecognized artists line the
walls with masterpieces, their work
Harajuku is a hub of name brands speaking loudly despite their quiet
and expensive designer items. Unap- presence. It is a blend of styles and
proachable leather purses and intimi- voices and moods and things to say.
dating price tags line the main street, Together these people bring their 奥
taunting through the crystalline glass. worlds into a single space, creating


Hiding in the back alleys are smaller, a voice that is more profound than a
independent businesses, doing their corporation will ever know.
best to compete with the gargantuan

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Kamakura is a day trip that is


common for many city-dwellers to
take after their hectic workweeks.


Kamakura is a small, touristy
town reminiscent of the sunny
streets of SoCal. Pricey shops
cater to tourists and restaurants
are blatant and gaudy in their ad-
vertisements. Even more obvious
are the shrines and temples with
their English signs and countless

Day 6: May 25, 2019


photo-ops. Each temple we


visited was flooded with different
languages as people crowded to
take pictures of a giant Buddha
or tall bamboo. Here and there,
// Kamakura

a reverent visitor bowed their


head and carefully wrote their
wishes on prayer votives. It was
the authenticity of people like
this that refined these spots for
generations. Genuine worship
and care cultivated refuge for
serenity and self-reflection. The
beauty of nature was a light that

LIGHT.
guided their ancestors to build
their places of respect on land
that made people remember why
they were grateful and what life
had to offer them.

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Ikebana is the art of arranging the true value of everything else.


flowers. It is an art of subtrac-
tion, removing pieces to empha- Disney, although seemingly
size negative space. In a way, nothing like ikebana, holds more
this empty space becomes more in common with it than one might
full than what is occupied by think. Life is a tangle of emotions
bright flowers. It is an understat- and events and feelings. Disney


ed kind of beauty—the outline of is all of those things, but only
a branch, the feathered edges of the positive ones. It is the space

THE ART OF
a leaf. A potential for what could that is empty of negativity and
be and a provocation of thought hatred and prejudice. It is a nice
for what is not. Ikebana is not reprieve, but if there were no
symmetrical but it holds a certain real life then Disney would not be
kind of balance. Like life, things
must be absent in order to gauge
so happy.

SUBTRACTION
Day 7: May 26, 2019
// Disney Tokyo sea

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ANOTHER TRY
Day 8: May 27, 2019
// Harajuku

Another day at school. The sun


beat on us relentlessly, and
exhaustion set in early. Tokyo is
tireless, but we are not. I pushed
through class and found myself
in an animal cafe in Harajuku.
On the way, I passed the place
where the ambulance picked
me up–an unpleasant reminder,
accompanied by a sense of relief
and a measure of wisdom. The
afternoon passed without event,
except for the clatter of chinchilla
paws and the squeaking of otters.
Now that the glamor has faded
a bit, I am noticing the small
pangs of not belonging in this big

軽 city far away from home. Stares


presence. Despite its size and


on the subway, disapproving
its overflowing population, the
glances toward my uncovered
streets of Tokyo are strangely
legs, a slight disdain for my
quiet. There is no honking, no
lack of etiquette. The Japanese
loud screaming, barely even a
are respectful almost to a
whisper from passers-by. It is so
fault—they are closed off from
unlike the constant chatter in the
this world in expression if not in
heart of Boston, the liveliness I
have taken for granted.

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CLARITY 21


Today was a day of quiet drizzles guided there by tendrils of fog


and damp concrete. The world and the sharp, clean scent of
was dewy and a pinkish haze water in the cracks of asphalt. It
hung over our heads, clouds was a startling transition from
thick and heavy. The rain was the anachronism of old ads into
Day 9: May 28, 2019

strange in that it brought about a world that felt clean and new.
a sense of clarity while also Each tiny raindrop was a prickly
obscuring what was out of reach. reminder to be present. They
Gazes met with sharp details, grounded me.
Tokyo Tower
// Ad Museum,

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Day 10: May 29, 2019 Tokyo is a different city at night.


// Andaz, As high noon dips into dusk and
Tokyo Station the moon makes her way into the
light, children retreat into their
beds while old men go to smoke
out on the back porch. Buildings
become skeletons, visible only by
the bones of their lights stretch-
ing up into inky nothingness. An
elevator to the top is a leap of nowhere to land and no stars to
faith—will we still be in this world grab a hold of?


when the apex approaches? Are


we stepping into a place that Tokyo is a different city at night.
humans can tread? Or will the And we wear masks trying to fool
doors open up to the sky, with the moon that we are too.

NIGHT
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SKELETONS
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GI
NZ
A6 Image. To some people it’s
everything. A white T-shirt from
Target? No. A white T-shirt from
Gucci? Better.

Ginza is an image. A facade, an


illusion, a way of life. Glass-front
shops hiding the truth behind un-
ethical sourcing. Child labor. Price


jacking. Miserable employees…
High fashion! Innovative design!

Day 11: May 30, 2019 覚


// Ginza

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RELIEF 27

Day 12: May 31, 2019


// Akihabara

Tokyo is a different city at night. It is a place where the masks we


And we wear masks trying to fool wear can really turn us into differ-
the moon that we are too. ent people. The moon makes us
rowdy and unnerved, with outlets
What happens at night can be that are only available where
magic—after all, it is a different lights don’t shine.
world. It is a place where disso-
nant voices can echo in a lonely In the morning, it is a relief to
karaoke bar. A place where the shed the masks. With them: our
unlikeliest of people can clumsily memories. Our disappointments.
reach across barriers to become Our actions, our reactions.


friends, if only for a moment. We don them again the next night.

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KYOTO
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Kyoto is open streets while Tokyo me, in the flowers basking in the
is packed with people I’d rather sun and the sky coloring itself
not know. It’s a breath of fresh for the simple purpose of making
air while Tokyo has learned to me smile. There is room here for

ORN
REB
suffocate me. It is all too easy me to work and grow and live
to forget about that last night and thrive. Forested hills live in
when I am here. My bed supports the distance, reminding me of


me when in Tokyo it dragged me home. It should feel constricting,


to the ground. Life feels new. this mountain rising to one side.
Reborn. Signs of it are all around Instead it is a comfort and a

者 protector. I am here, I am safe.

Day 13: June 1, 2019


// Kyoto

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Day 14: June 2, 2019
// Kamogawa River

The first full day in Kyoto is a


bit overcast, but it is under this
kind of sky that I feel most at
home. The mountains rising in
the distance are tinged with teal,
their forests dripping with dew.
There is a smell that reminds me
of rain but in a different way than
I am used to. It is clean. Cycling
through the city is the most


enjoyable form of transportation,


and everywhere little bike bells

I E
are ringing as pedestrians jump

車 to avoid a collision. Hidden


streets twist and turn, back

K
B
alleys leading nowhere and some
pouring into the river. Wires
and power lines parallel the
streets, and little bridges echo
underneath them. Water runs
languidly, carving a lazy path for
me to follow.

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COTTON–
Today is a zen day. An itchy
fifteen minutes are spent in silent
contemplation, but my head nods
forward as my body struggles
to stay upright. My thoughts run

CANDY–
wild at times, but sometimes
they stop completely. A sharp
wooden clack startles me out of
this strange state of reverie. I

MAN
am back on earth, a fact that I am continually reminded of by
the sky that keeps me grounded.
Clouds bloom with infinite
abandon, fluffy and ripe to eat.
They are pure spun sugar that a
cotton-candy man is still working
on—he wraps the paper cone
of Japan with a bit too much
patience. The sky is painted or-
咲 ange and he still has not finished,

く though not for lack of trying.


Day 15: June 3, 2019
// Shinkoin Temple

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BLOSSOM
Day 16: June 4, 2019
// Junsei

Liquid soy congeals to form


something that some people
enjoy eating, or so they claim.
They are drawn to its squishy tex-
ture, its total submission to any
pressure. I am not. Tofu is gross,
I don’t care how it’s cooked. Milk
skin, soy tofu, liquid milk tofu…
Luckily, the tofu restaurant is
nestled in a beautiful garden sees them. They are cherry
that makes up for what is inside. blossoms year-round, gentle


Koi swish gently in the streams, and rosy and fragrant. The sky,
shaded by a plethora of pink too, reflects these colors in the
trees. They aren’t actually pink, garden of the tofu restaurant. A
but this is how my imagination pink day, tinged with violet and
moss green. I can also make it a
blue day if I choose.

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GORI– 39

LLAND

A day at the zoo is childhood where they had once belonged.


reincarnated. I am not sent back A tiger basking on a rock,
to days of my youth, but rather, unfettered; a penguin splashing,
innocence is restored to who buoyant without plastic around
I am now—at least, for a little its wings. Selfishly though, I am
while. The tigers yawn lazily and glad that they are here, because
the elephants are languid with I get to feel like a little girl again,
their trunks. Monkeys are the awed by her own smallness.
only playful ones, energetic even
in the scorching afternoon sun.
They run laps around their enclo-


sure, stopping every few seconds
to make sure that we are still
watching. It makes me sad that 物
such creatures are trapped in

too-small cages, when in another
life they could be doing the same
thing, but more, out in the wild

Day 17: June 5, 2019


// Kyoto City Zoo

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The manga museum is both
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something familiar and something
completely foreign. My soul is Day 18: June 6, 2019
紙 // International Manga
familiar with the walls of paper,
the smell of old ink and cracked Museum
spines. My fingers know how to
find my page, how to guide my
imagination. This is new though,
and my eyes struggle to travel
from right to left. It is hard to
absorb flashy illustration and
chaotic dialogue and intense that belongs so completely in
action all at once. It is strange to their arms. I can appreciate it,
think that this is second nature but never fully understand.  It
to some people, a form of art is the work of centuries that has
developed something that can so
fully attribute its origins. Years of
tradition combined with a hint of
something new continue to evolve
it every day, but the essence

WELL-
always remains.

READ

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FO
The first rainy day in Kyoto
was a relief. The sun had been
beating relentlessly for the past
few days, and a bit of water was
much needed. Plants sighed a
OD Day 19: June 7, 2019
bit, releasing their tension and // Aeon Mall
dripping into the streets. Clouds back. Customer service got the

shed their burden, sharing with restaurant business done, but not

the thirsty ground below. much else. The food, however,


completely betrayed the lack-

Dinner was in a dingy little luster facade. It was incredibly

building, restaurant tables thrown delicious, a perfect balance of

結 in only as an afterthought. umami, fresh ingredients, and a


Boxes lined metal shelves along gentle touch. Whoever had made

the wall, nude photos were our food cared immensely about

論 pinned to a cork board in the their work.

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AT THE
STATION
Day 20: June 8, 2019

Today was for lazing around, staircases manifesting where


eyes closed until past midday. you least expect them. There are
I did homework and watched layers and facets only accessible
Avatar—Levi was there too. It through certain hallways that you
// Kyoto Station


was already night when we de- must be lucky enough to stumble
cided to venture out, but only as upon. Am I describing Hogwarts?
け far as Kyoto Station. It is more Perhaps. But it clearly got its

る labyrinthine than it appears, with inspiration from Kyoto Station.

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ATAGOYAM
Day 21: June 9, 2019
// Atagoyama

Today was an early morning


kind of day. I rose on my own,
trepidation slowing me limbs and
souring my stomach. My mind
was made up to visit Atagoyama,
the highest mountain in Kyoto.
It would be a challenging climb,
and one done in solitude. I was
unused to my own initiative, and
I was surprised by its boldness.
After what seemed like hours of
travel (in reality it was an hour
and a half), the bus stopped at
the village near the trail head. I so that steps passed more
had made it, cashless and hoping quickly. Upon reaching the shrine
that I had bought enough food. at the top, I was greeted by a
The trail wasted no time stealing hungry falcon. Its wings whistled
my breath. Somewhere along the a hairsbreadth from my ear as
way it had slipped my mind that it snatched the food I had been
I was going to climb a mountain, so looking forward to. Stolen
and despite its absence from chicken and all, the hike brought

一 my thoughts, I still had to do it. me back to myself. High above


Fortunately, the hike was the me the city and lost in the trees, my
time that I had so desperately presence returned. The alone-
needed. I focused on each breath ness was familiar, and I knew how
to act in that space.

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HIGASHIYAMA

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Day 22: June 10, 2019


// Kyoto Shrine Tour

to adorn their roofs. They are


massive buildings, stacked
perfectly as if a giant Buddha
had carefully placed each layer
on top of the other, legos for the
enlightened. There are trees and
moats to keep them protected,
cozy cocoons for heady incense.
My favorite part comes in the
unexpected pleasure of dry,
bare feet on the smooth planks
of each temple. Despite their
physical separations, this feeling
links each one together. A similar
sense of spiritualism permeates
through the wood and acts as a
gateway to an elevated state. I
don’t consider myself religious,
There are hundreds of shrines but for the first time in a while
dotted among the forests of I’ve been in a place where I feel
Kyoto—some are sheltered on more in touch with myself and
obscure mountaintops while the world around me. In the
others bask in constant tourism. space of a temple, it’s almost
We visited the latter, losing second-nature to relax into
ourselves among the masses myself as little nodes inside of
as we took in their grand me open, wispy tendrils of spirit


symmetry. The structures were reaching out, tentatively finding
painted vermillion, with elaborate their place in the world.
神 shingles and gold-leaf sculptures

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Day 23: June 11, 2019


// Piece Hostel

Today was a day of drawing, of


losing track of time in bed as
the sun set outside. Hours lost
meaning as I focused all of my


energy into making each line
perfect. By the time my stomach
caught up with my brain, it was
dark outside as I made my way
to dinner. The meal was chewed
hurriedly so I could return to
my work.

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MOONLIGHT
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pass by. The easy exchange


of coins clinks at regular
intervals, hands greased by the
overwhelming sensory appeal.
Money seemed to lose value in
the market—a couple hundred
Exploring Nishiki Market is a yen became a small price to pay
barrage of scents and shouts for the plethora of flavors and
and jostles. The narrow path is novelty. Honey dripped over
packed with tourists and locals maple ice cream, freshly-peeled
alike, all wide-eyed at the wares shrimp was peppered with exotic
of each stall. Shoulders greet

spice. Adventurous souls plucked
each other without friction, small octopi from skewers. I was
smooth understanding as they not one of them. 蜜

DYEING
// Nishiki Market, Shibori Dyeing Class
Day 24: June 12, 2019

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NOWHERE 57

DAY
Today was a nowhere day. Class
dragged on, our beds called. I
guess Wednesdays are good at
following this pattern, at not
quite belonging. It is too late
to be the weekend, but too
early to be the weekend. It is a
caught-between time with drag
and pull on each side so that
it is just neutral. Nowhere Day
Nowhere Day Nowhere Day No-
where Day Nowhere Day Nowhere
Day Nowhere Day Nowhere Day
Nowhere Day Nowhere Day No-
where Day Nowhere Day Nowhere
Day Nowhere Day Nowhere Day
Nowhere Day Nowhere Day No- Day 25: June 13, 2019
// Nowhere, really
where Day Nowhere Day Nowhere
Day Nowhere Day Nowhere Day
Nowhere Day Nowhere Day No-
where Day Nowhere Day Nowhere
Day Nowhere Day Nowhere Day
Nowhere Day Nowhere Day No-
where Day Nowhere Day Nowhere
Day Nowhere Day Nowhere Day
Nowhere Day Nowhere Day No-
where Day Nowhere Day Nowhere
Day Nowhere Day Nowhere Day
Nowhere Day Nowhere Day No-
ど where Day Nowhere Day Nowhere

こ Day Nowhere Day Nowhere Day


Nowhere Day Nowhere Day No-
where Day Nowhere Day Nowhere
も Day Nowhere Day Nowhere Day
Nowhere

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The tea ceremony began with amused by our enthusiastic mis-


poise and grace, on the part of pronunciations. It was a time to
Seiko if not ours. She carefully feel closer to one another, to sit
laid out each piece of the cer- as equals and enjoy the simple
emony, and they settled easily pleasure of frothy matcha. Loud
in their place, knowing exactly slurps marked our satisfaction, 温
where they belonged. Our clumsy the warm fuzzy feelings that


attempts marred the tradition traveled through our bodies.
of the ceremony, but Seiko was

Day 26: June 14, 2019

KYOTO
// Kyoto Tower

TOWER
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Returning to Nishiki Market on

Day 27: June 15, 2019


a Saturday is quite a different
experience from its weekday
presence. It is everything it
COFFEE

was before, but even more


COFFEE

// Nishiki, again
intense. Honey ice cream is
almost as good the second


time, but downed by a milk-only,
brown-sugar boba, my stomach

ー rioted against me. This bled

バ into dinner as well when I bit


into a delicious cashew-filled
curry. The rest of the day
was as pleasant as could be
expected, especially before the
allergen experience. I sacrificed
cash for a mis-priced skirt, a
purchase that was long-time
coming. It was a day of long
walking and perfectly timed
rain. There were ups and downs
and zig-zags in between. An
experience, for sure.

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Day 28: June 16, 2019


// Ayabe: Kurotani Washi

Visiting Kurotani—Black Valley—


黒 was an endeavor in culture and

谷 tradition that opened my eyes

口 to a process both delicate and


hardened. Making washi paper
is an infinite process: as soon
as the paper has been pressed
and dried, it is time to harvest
the kouzo once again. It cracks
hands and dries feet, it sculpts
muscle and hardens bones. Our
paper-making was only a fraction
of a procedure that generations
have passed down, mother to son
to daughter to son. The valley
is quiet and remote, its people
dedicated to its long-held art.

The movie theater was much the


same as it is back home. Buttery
popcorn came in large plastic
trays, Japanese danced across
the bottom of the screen. Every-
one was quiet, sitting through
even to the ends of the credits.

WISH–
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WASH
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PRESSUR
DEER
Day 29: June 17, 2019
// Nara Deer Park

Nara is incredibly playful, with of the rice cakes they become


deer dotting every street corner, completely obsessed creatures,
every nook and every cranny. and will follow you relentlessly
They bask in the sun and roll until the remainder of your food
around on the warm concrete. is in their belly. Herds of them
They bow gracefully when will gather around a single per-
approached, a silent nod that is son who shows any indication of

鹿
really just their way of asking giving into their deer pressure.
for food. After a small taste

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Today is a day for work and not a


small amount of panic. Deadlines
are looming, a mountain of work
that I haven’t begun to climb. My
overeager ambition is coming
back to bite me in the ass. I have
only a couple days until my entire
product is due, a giant brand that
is not meant to be created in a
matter of weeks.

The plants bring me a sense of 庭


calm, a reminder that life goes
on outside of me. They thrive,
even when I do not.

BUDDING.
Day 30: June 18, 2019
//Kyoto International

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Day 31: June 19, 2019


//Nishiki


It’s been five months since a way, the emptiness that Jamal
Levi and I started on our journey was describing to us was what
together. Not a lot of time has enabled us to see ourselves ヶ
passed, and yet it feels like with the other person. There

FIVE !
we’ve seen everything. We’ve were some rough spots along
experienced a lot of new and ex- the way, but there’s no one I’d
citing places together, from New rather be exploring Japan with.
York to Boston to Tokyo to Kyoto. It’s strange to think that I won’t
We came into each other’s lives be seeing him for a while after
at a time that was a bit emptier— this, because his presence can
we were in a new place, without sometimes feel like an extension
family and without familiarity. In of my own.

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/Fushimi Inari Temple


Day 32: June20, 2019

神 The shrine at Inari is not some- and we were alone as we walked


thing that presents itself easily. through the forest. The gates felt
Tourists may gather at its gates, like a red carpet of the gods, a
admiring the long rows of vermil- holy tunnel with an ancient soul.
lion columns. Very few make it It was peaceful, and reaching the

EATHERING
beyond the first couple hundred of top felt well-earned.
feet. After about twenty minutes of
walking, the path suddenly cleared Then came long work and
okonomiyaki. I spent hours on my
computer, fine-tuning and re-tun-
ing. My eyes were bloodshot and
my vision blurred. The lobby was
bustling, something of a comfort
because I was not alone for my
work. Okonomiyaki came as a
godsend—the smells and sounds
and tastes were sharp enough to
cut through what was becoming a
bleak night. Its flavor was able to
evoke some life within me, and it
gave me the energy I needed to
get the job done.

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ICHI-GO



ICHI-E

It’s a bittersweet last night in Kyoto. time encounters, and that’s what
The train back to Tokyo doesn’t feel makes it so special. I know I’ll be
like part of the trip—it feels like back one day, but there’s no time
the end. There is a sense of relief, like the first. I can’t wait to take
though, too. I am glad to be done what I know and bring it back to
with my interventions project. I felt share with my family and friends.
that I’ve spent too long worrying My life will look a little different
about it, and seeing it over ad over now, and I’m glad it’s Japan that
and over has desensitized me to its has shaped me this way. I’ll carry
needs. I am ready to go back home. with me the serenity of temples
I miss the pizza shops and the loud and the vastness of the forest.
chatter of the city. I miss the comfort The sprawling cities and unassum-
of familiar food and a familiar bed. ing countrysides and rolling hills
I need space to reflect upon what and flowing rivers are something
I’ve learned and how I’ve grown. My unique: unique to this place, to
time in Japan was a once-in-a-lifetime this time, and to this me.
experience, these moments were one-

Day 33: June210,


// Last day in Kyoto

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