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These days the decision to buy an apparel product is, to an extent, governed by aesthetics and
visual appeal, as a result of which the quality of finish is gaining importance. In garment
manufacture, creases and crushing occur as a result of operator handling; this undesirable
deformation is at its maximum when garments are handled between sewing operations in
bundles, whether tied up tightly or piled up on trolleys or in boxes. Final pressing or finishing,
which refreshes the fabric texture after manufacture, is undertaken to smoothen away unwanted
creases and crush marks. Continuing in the series of technology level articles, the authors will
discuss different levels of technology solutions available, makes and models of machinery and
equipment available in the market. The authors would like to acknowledge the contributions
from both Veit and Macpi.

Technology for Finishing Shirts

Varsha Verma, Student of Bachelor of Fashion Technology
(Apparel Production) and Professor Prabir Jana, NIFT

M
en’s shirt finishing involves
combination of ironing, pressing
and finishing. Important factors
for shirt finishing would be a completely
pressed collar, flat-pressed shoulder and
armhole seams, flat-pressed pockets and a
smooth hem without any wrinkles. In the
finishing process for shirts, formal and
casual, the equipment being used can be
classified into the following categories
based on the level of automation:
Basic Level
Steam Irons with Vacuum Tables
Intermediate Level
Buck Presses & Form Finishers
Highest Level
Tunnel Finishers
It is important, at this stage, to distinguish
between the finish of a casual shirt with
that of a formal dress shirt. Interestingly,
while a casual shirt can be finished with
the help of any level of technology, a
formal dress shirt may require part use
of basic technology (in touch up
operations) over the highest level of
technology, viz, tunnel finisher.
Basic Level of Technology
Steam Irons
with Vacuum Tables
Typical Work-Cycle Elements of Ironing:
Pick up ÆPosition (vacuum on) ÆSteam
(vacuum off) ÆIron ÆVacuum (remove
residual steam) Æ Dispose off
This is the oldest and popular method for
finishing shirts. Steam irons are
ergonomically designed to provide
effortless operation and superb finish.
Steam irons may have several unique
features like digital temperature
control, detachable heater elements, a
hard-coated aluminum base, Teflon shoe
and silicon pad. The steam passages allow
unilateral flow of steam all over the
garment. The hot steam produced at
high pressure and temperature
helps remove wrinkles easily. Macpi’s
‘precise’ iron and VEIT ‘HP 2003’
offers accurate temperature control
[within +/- 20C (+/- 30F)], which aids in the
ironing of temperature sensitive fabrics
without marks.
The vacuum table comes generally in a
rectangular shape with pedal controlled
air suction. The vacuum helps in retaining
the garment flat and wrinkle free in shape
during ironing and removing the residual
steam after ironing. A good industrial
vacuum board may have features like:
superior and selective suction, durable
components, sound insulation and anti-
rust features. The vacuum table also
comes with certain additions like
inclination (Macpi 17.701), electrically
heated buck (Macpi 17.701), height
adjustment (Veit HD 2128) with the
possibility to be fitted with one or two
swing-arms (to facilitate buck ironing).

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Vacuum tables are universal and primarily Machinery and Equipment Required for Basic Level of Technology (Steam Irons):
used for ironing woven garments. Steam Iron, Boiler assembly, Power Supply, Vacuum table, Storage rack
Upsteam table (for knitwear) and an air
Makes and Models Features and Specification of Machinery and Equipment
blow table (for gathered/frilled garments)
are other variations of the ironing table. VEIT iron HP Ironing surface: 220 x 105 mm to 200 x 115 mm to 1300 x 700 mm
2003 & VEIT table Connected Load W/ Volt/ Hz:1250/ 230/ 50-60
Ironing using vacuum tables is HD 2128,
Macpi iron Consumption: 1,8/4,65 Kw/h (according to the model)
characterized by the rubbing of two
035.90 & Macpi Iron weight : 1.25 to 3.5 Kg
surfaces (thus altering fabric texture), a table 167.701
small area of contact (thus less Temp: 130 - 2500C
productive), batch processing (thus less
productive) and lastly, the need for
skilled labour, which are the basic
disadvantages at this level.

Intermediate Level
of Technology:
Buck Presses & Form
Finishers
Work-Cycle Elements of Steam Buck
Press Operation:
Collar and cuff buck press – Veit
Load & position ÆSteam ÆBuck head close
(predetermined time) ÆVacuum ÆBuck head
open Æ Unload

BUCK PRESSES
Buck presses are primarily for shaped
garments where flat surface ironing is
not possible, like suits, dress shirts, etc., as
they give faster and superior quality
pressing and are less labour intensive.
Buck presses for dress shirts are classified
by an apparel section name, such as collar,
sleeve, front, back or shoulder which 1. Automatic adjustment of heating Air cushioning system in collar and
mat for the lower form 2. Radius cuff buck press – Macpi
describes the basic form and utility of the
with different adjustments for long
buck. A typical buck press system for a and short sleeves –Veit
dress shirt will require an assembly for
different bucks for pressing different pressing forms for cuffs to adjust adjusted very sensitively for all kinds of
parts of the garment. automatically to the shape of the lower fabrics. Features like digital temperature,
The various categories of buck presses form. Flexible heating mats guarantee an electric heated mat, adjustable cuff size,
have been discussed below. even distribution of temperature and vertical closing of the heat mats, mat to
pressure over the whole surface. There take the shape of the lower buck are
Collar and Cuff Buck Press may be a manual spraying device and a typical /unique advantages of VEIT-
This machine has been especially suction unit. The suction unit makes it Kannegieser Triostar while Macpi
designed for pressing collars and cuffs of easier to position collars and cuffs before 209.07.9109 scissor press for collar and
both blouses and shirts. It can also be pressing and optimises cooling down cuff is supplied with an Air Cushion
used as a neck press. There are adjustable after pressing. The pressure can be System and Spray Unit.

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Front Placket Buck Press
A good example is the Veit-Kannegieser
FPD, which can combine both the fusing
and pressing.
The design of the heating plate is
arranged to avoid temperature
fluctuations, thus guaranteeing a stable
set temperature. Sensitive setting for
different materials is possible as pressure
is infinitely adjustable. The padding of the
bucks assures an ideal fusing and
finishing result. The programmer ensures
exact adjustment of pressing time, actual
and set temperature and suction time.
Suction makes it easier to position the
garment exactly before pressing and
guarantees an optimal cooling down after
pressing. A clamp at the front of the
machine can hold a number of front
plackets in order to work according to
the waterfall principle. It also helps to
improve workplace design. Apart from
the placket, there are also scissor presses
for front and back shirt pressing (e.g.,
Macpi 209.17.9102).
Sleeve Finishing
Buck Press
This machine gives a good pressing result
for all kinds of sleeves due to its variable
adjustment possibilities. The design of the
heating plate is arranged to avoid
temperature fluctuations, thus
guaranteeing a stable set temperature.
Sensitive setting of different materials is
possible as the pressure is infinitely
adjustable. For example, in the Veit
Kannegieser SFD, the lower pressing
buck can be moved sideways and
oscillated. This guarantees ideal pressing
of all kinds of armhole designs without
change over. A laser pointer shows the
exact position of the sleeve. The
programmer ensures an exact adjustment
of pressing time, actual and set
temperature and suction time. Suction
makes it easier to position the garment
exactly before pressing and guarantees an
optimal cooling down after pressing.
Shirt Body Press
The shirt body press presses the complete
back, yoke, shoulders and front part
including the breast pocket. Main features
are vacuum dummies, double operating
dummy for left and right, computerised
control, built-in vacuum unit and
automatic water spraying unit. The
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Machinery and Equipment Required for Intermediate Level of Technology (Buck
Presses): Buck presses, boiler assembly
Makes and Models Features and Specification of Machinery and Equipment
Cuff Buck Press
VEIT – TrioStar, Dimensions in mm: 1100x1150x1600 approximately
For Collar and
Macpi 209.07.9109 Working Air Pressure: 6kg/cm2
Air Consumption in l/min: 31.45
Connected Load kW/ Volt/ Hz: 2/ 3 x 23 0/ 50-60
For Front Placket Dimensions mm: 1400x1120x1600
Buck Press Weight kg: 420
VEIT – FPD
Working Air Pressure bar: 6
Macpi 506.17.9120
Air Consumption in l/min: 1200
Connected Load kW/ Volt/ Hz: 2.1/ 400/ 50
For Sleeve Finishing
Dimensions mm: 1350x2540x1900
Buck Press
Weight kg: 460
VEIT – SFD
Working Air Pressure bar: 6
Macpi 506.17.8506
Air Consumption in l/min: 860
Connected Load kW/ Volt/ Hz: 10.6/400/50
For Shirt Body
VEIT –VertoStar, Dimensions mm: 1800x1300x1810, 2345x113 5x1745
Press
HPV2
Macpi - 288.00,
Working Air Pressure bar: 4.49-8.63
Colmac 3-CPU
Air Consumption in l/min: 120 – 215
Connected Load kW/Volt/Hz: 12.5/3x400/50-60
The above specifications are indicative and may vary from company to company. Also the working
principle may differ, e.g., while the Veit-Kannegieser machines are actually electric heated and do not
consume steam, Macpi machines are steam heated and the utility consumptions are different.
working principle consists on the upwards
extension of the dummy after the
pressing plates closure. In this way, the
fabric is spread perfectly on the shoulder,
securing a faultless result. The automatic
water spaying unit is also very innovative.
While Macpi 288.00 has revolutionary
dummies with vacuum and with
extensible devices on the sides for
different sizes, retractable sleeve supports
and pneumatic collar clamp, Veit
Kannegieser’s oil heated, stainless steel
bucks help to press post cure /vapour
phase wrinkle free processed shirts.
The shirt forms are available in different
sizes (for wide, standard and narrow
shoulders) the shirt forms adjust
automatically to every side seam form.
Productivity of up to 1900 shirts/ 8 hours
can be achieved due to the overlap
operation method (simultaneous pressing
and loading). Through the extensions like
loading systems and transfer systems, up
to 2400 shirts/8 hours can be pressed. Yoke pressing – Macpi
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The shirt can also be pressed also by Machinery and Equipment Required for Intermediate Level of Technology
means of a carousel. The Macpi - (Form Finisher): Form finisher, boiler assembly
506.17.9119 carousels have been
designed to grant high productivity and Makes and Models Features and Specification of Machinery
and Equipment
reduced running consumptions,
mantaining a high standard quality. Working Air Pressure bar: 6
Macpi models are 180° and 1200 VIET- 8346, 8325 Air Consumption in l/min: 12 l/cycle
carousels for small and big shapes. Macpi 389.00 Steam consumption: 40 Kg/h
Working on 2 traditional pressing Connected Load kW/ Volt/ Hz: Around 2.2/ 400/ 50 and 2.2/
machines the operator moves between 200-240/ 50-60
both machines for the shirt loading/
unloading. With the new carousel, the
shapes move and the operator stand still
with a considerable reduction of
production downtime.

Form Finishers
Form finishers achieve crease free
hem finishing and operate on
continuous cycles of steam and hot air.
It is ideal for achieving final finish of The shaped pressing 1. Air bags for wrinkle- The back pleat can be
shirts removing all tardy wrinkles. plates press the whole free pressing, finishing formed without problems
shoulder area of shoulders; 2.
Around 40-160 garments can be form Pneumatic pressure
finished in an hour. system; 3. Improved
shaping of side area
Basically, form finishers are designed to
eliminate positioning and repositioning
time in a ironing/pressing work cycle.
Work-Cycle Elements of Steam Bag Form
Finishers Without Timers
Loading and Positioning ÆSteaming
(predetermined time) ÆHot Air Blowing
(predetermined time) Æ Unloading

The main features of the form finisher

are the body, back, shoulders, sleeves and
Shirt no. 1 Is Shirt no. 1 Left front Shirt no. 1 Right front Shirt no. 1 Right front
sides locking devices. Other features are loaded part is pressed part pulled on; Shirt part is pressed; Shirt
automatic clamps adjustable in height, no. 2 Left front part no. 2 Left front part is
is pulled on pressed
automatic side tensioning – hot and cold
air blowing – turning and translating All seven photographs above courtesy Veit
front plate. The pneumatic sleeve
tensioners finish the cuffs without
leaving marks. All functions are
programmable by a Programmable Logic
Controller(PLC), but can be manually
overridden to obtain the best finish
under any conditions and with any kind
of fabric. The finisher is equipped with a
powerful hot-air fan that reduces fixing
and drying time and thus increases
productivity. A clearly arranged display
panel shows all the important functions
at a glance. Tandem processing can
increase the productivity.
Macpi 389.00 adopts a special plate
movement for the pressing of shirt front
placket, which allows getting the dummy
to a lower position, facilitating the shirt The combination of shirt body press, automatic unloading device
loading operations. and transfer system – Veit

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Highest Level Machinery and Equipment Required for Highest Level of Technology:
Tunnel finisher & conveyer system (optional)
of Technology
Steam Tunnel Finishers Makes and Models Features and Specification of Machinery and Equipment

This is a finishing process where pressure Operating unit: Touch screen

is not applied to the garments but where Distance between hooks (optional) mm: 200-900
handling during the process is reduced. It Centrifugal fans with electronic control of variable capacity: 2
can be used mainly for casual shirts in VEIT 8346, Heat exchanger: 2
man-made fibres and blends. The VEIT 8656, Steam pressure: 7/9 BAR
garments are mounted on hangers and Macpi 533.01, Steam consumption: 75/115 Kg/h to 100/150 Kg/h
are fed under automatic control through a Macpi 533.02,
Length/length with conveyor mm: 2280Height and width mm:
Colmac CFS1200
cabinet on a motorised rail, passed 2300x1950/2750, 2280x2700/3500
though sections with superheated steam, Connection to compressed air: 4.49-8.63 BAR
and dried by air blowing. With these Installed power: 2.3-4Kw
finishers one can achieve high output Electric feeding: 3+N~50Hz 400 V
capacities (up to 3000 garments/h) with
consistent high quality.
Tunnel finishers usually are made up
of modules, which can be combined as
per requirement.
1. Pre-heating Module: this is optional, to
refinish the garments. In this process, the
garments are pre-heated with medium
temperature and air to ensure better
absorption of the steam.
2. Steam Module: The finishing process
requires that the garments are sprayed
with steam directly or, depending on the
length of the fibres, indirectly. The
required amount of steam can be
regulated infinitely from 0 up to 100%.
In each steam module, the amount of
steam and the injection can be
adjusted individually.
Tunnel finisher – Veit
3. Air Module: One or more air modules
smooth and dry the garments. In this
process the programmed quantity of air
with the corresponding temperature flows
down the module past the garments.
4. Blow-off funnel: To give the garments
the corresponding volume when leaving
the Tunnel Finisher (doll effect), the
Special plate movement – Macpi Forced circulation of steam and
garments are opened from below with the superheated air – Macpi
remaining heat to give them the
appropriate shape. Each module has its
own display with a bar chart and direct productivity. The working cycle starts managed by PLC through a pressure
input for the parameters to be behind closed doors and with stationary transmitter and electronic converter.
programmed. The programmed and the garments. The fluids (steam and The closed (batch) processing method
actual temperature are displayed in a superheated air) are introduced with a creates the most versatile finishing system,
corresponding colour combination. In Veit forced circulation in both directions, enabling the economic production of very
Model 8625, it is also possible to activate allowing the garment to be treated long or short runs on a Quick Response
interface links and program settings via effectively, reaching also the most inner basis. Furthermore through this system we
an RFID interface. fibres. A located airflow allows cooling of can obtain total control of any internal
Macpi 533.01/02 introduces a new concept, the hanger in the most critical point (see parameters: air (quantity, flow, temperature,
based on research and tests, providing picture), avoiding its deformation at high direction speed) steam (quantity and
results which demonstrate significant temperatures. The steam humidity level is quality, degree of humidity) and times,
improvement in efficiency and controlled by an electropneumatic valve giving the best quality results.

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