A spark plug is an electrical device that fits into the cylinder head of some internal combustion engines and

ignites
compressed aerosol gasoline by means of an electric spark. Spark plugs have an insulated center electrode which is
connected by a heavily insulated wire to an ignition coil or magneto circuit on the outside, forming, with a grounded
terminal on the base of the plug, a spark gap inside the cylinder. Internal combustion engines can be divided into
spark-ignition engines, which require spark plugs to begin combustion, and compression-ignition engines (diesel
engines), which compress the air and then inject diesel fuel into the heated compressed air mixture where it auto
ignites. Compression-ignition engines may use glow plugs to improve cold start characteristics.

The spark plug has two primary functions:

To ignite the air/fuel mixture. Electrical energy is transmitted through the spark plug, jumping the gap in the plugs
firing end if the voltage supplied to the plug is high enough. This electrical spark ignites the gasoline/air mixture in the
combustion chamber. To remove heat from the combustion chamber. Spark plugs cannot create heat, they can only
remove heat. The temperature of the end of the plug\'s firing end must be kept low enough to prevent pre-ignition, but
high enough to prevent fouling. The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy from
the combustion chamber and transferring heat to the engines cooling system. The heat range of a spark plug is
defined as its ability dissipate heat from the tip.
Operation :

The plug is connected to the high voltage generated by an ignition coil or magneto. As the electrons flow from the
coil, a voltage difference develops between the center electrode and side electrode. No current can flow because the
fuel and air in the gap is an insulator, but as the voltage rises further, it begins to change the structure of the gases
between the electrodes. Once the voltage exceeds the dielectric strength of the gases, the gases become ionized.
The ionized gas becomes a conductor and allow electrons to flow across the gap. Spark plugs usually require voltage
in excess of 20,000 volts to 'fire' properly.

As the current of electrons surges across the gap, it raises the temperature of the spark channel to 60,000 K. The
intense heat in the spark channel causes the ionized gas to expand very quickly, like a small explosion. This is the
"click" heard when observing a spark, similar to lightning and thunder.

The heat and pressure force the gases to react with each other, and at the end of the spark event there should be a
small ball of fire in the spark gap as the gases burn on their own. The size of this fireball or kernel depends on the
exact composition of the mixture between the electrodes and the level of combustion chamber turbulence at the time
of the spark. A small kernel will make the engine run as though the ignition timing was retarded, and a large one as
though the timing was advanced.
 Spark plug
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For other uses, see Spark plug (disambiguation).

Spark plug with single side electrode

A spark plug (sometimes, in British English, a sparking plug,[1] and, colloquially, a plug) is a device
for delivering electric current from an ignition system to the combustion chamber of a spark-ignition
engine to ignite the compressed fuel/air mixture by an electric spark, while containing combustion
pressure within the engine. A spark plug has a metal threaded shell, electrically isolated from a
central electrode by a porcelain insulator. The central electrode, which may contain a resistor, is
connected by a heavily insulated wire to the output terminal of an ignition coil or magneto. The spark
plug's metal shell is screwed into the engine's cylinder head and thus electrically grounded. The
central electrode protrudes through the porcelain insulator into the combustion chamber, forming
one or more spark gaps between the inner end of the central electrode and usually one or more
protuberances or structures attached to the inner end of the threaded shell and designated
the side, earth, or ground electrode(s).
Spark plugs may also be used for other purposes; in Saab Direct Ignition when they are not firing,
spark plugs are used to measure ionization in the cylinders – this ionic current measurement is used
to replace the ordinary cam phase sensor, knock sensor and misfire measurement function.[2] Spark
plugs may also be used in other applications such as furnaces wherein a combustible fuel/air
mixture must be ignited. In this case, they are sometimes referred to as flame igniters.[citation needed]

Contents

 1History
 2Operation
 3Spark plug construction
o 3.1Parts of the plug
 3.1.1Terminal
 3.1.2Insulator
 3.1.3Ribs
 3.1.4Insulator tip
 3.1.5Seals
 3.1.6Metal case/shell
 3.1.7Central electrode
 3.1.8Side (ground, earth) electrode
o 3.2Spark plug gap
o 3.3Variations on the basic design
o 3.4Surface-discharge spark plug
o 3.5Sealing to the cylinder head
o 3.6Tip protrusion
 4Heat range
 5Reading spark plugs
 6Indexing spark plugs
 7See also
 8References
 9External links

History[edit]
In 1860 Étienne Lenoir used an electric spark plug in his gas engine, the first internal combustion
piston engine. Lenoir is generally credited with the invention of the spark plug.[3]Some sources credit
Edmond Berger, an immigrant from Togo, with creating a spark plug in early 1839, though records
show he did not receive a patent for his device.[4]
Early patents for spark plugs included those by Nikola Tesla (in U.S. Patent 609,250 for an ignition
timing system, 1898), Frederick Richard Simms (GB 24859/1898, 1898) and Robert Bosch (GB
26907/1898). Only the invention of the first commercially viable high-voltage spark plug as part of
a magneto-based ignition system by Robert Bosch's engineer Gottlob Honold in 1902 made possible
the development of the spark-ignition engine. Subsequent manufacturing improvements can be
credited to Albert Champion,[5] to the Lodge brothers, sons of Sir Oliver Lodge, who developed and
manufactured their father's idea[6] and also to Kenelm Lee Guinness, of the Guinness brewing family,
who developed the KLG brand. Helen Blair Bartlett played a vital role in making the insulator in
1930.[7]

Operation[edit]

Components of a typical, four stroke cycle, DOHC piston engine.

 (E) Exhaust camshaft

 (I) Intake camshaft
 (S) Spark plug
 (V) Valves
 (P) Piston
 (R) Connecting rod
 (C) Crankshaft
 (W) Water jacket for coolant flow
The plug is connected to the high voltage generated by an ignition coil or magneto. As current flows
from the coil, a voltage develops between the central and side electrodes. Initially no current can
flow because the fuel and air in the gap is an insulator, but as the voltage rises further it begins to
change the structure of the gases between the electrodes. Once the voltage exceeds the dielectric
strength of the gases, the gases become ionized. The ionized gas becomes a conductor and allows
current to flow across the gap. Spark plugs usually require voltage of 12,000–25,000 volts or more to
"fire" properly, although it can go up to 45,000 volts. They supply higher current during the discharge
process, resulting in a hotter and longer-duration spark.
As the current of electrons surges across the gap, it raises the temperature of the spark channel to
60,000 K. The intense heat in the spark channel causes the ionized gas to expand very quickly, like
a small explosion. This is the "click" heard when observing a spark, similar to lightning and thunder.
The heat and pressure force the gases to react with each other, and at the end of the spark event
there should be a small ball of fire in the spark gap as the gases burn on their own. The size of this
fireball, or kernel, depends on the exact composition of the mixture between the electrodes and the
level of combustion chamber turbulence at the time of the spark. A small kernel will make the engine
run as though the ignition timing was retarded, and a large one as though the timing was
advanced.[citation needed]

Spark plug construction[edit]

A spark plug is composed of a shell, insulator and the central conductor. It passes through the wall
of the combustion chamber and therefore must also seal the combustion chamber against high
pressures and temperatures without deteriorating over long periods of time and extended use.
Spark plugs are specified by size, either thread or nut (often referred to as Euro), sealing type (taper
or crush washer), and spark gap. Common thread (nut) sizes in Europe are 10 mm (16 mm), 14 mm
(21 mm; sometimes, 16 mm), and 18 mm (24 mm, sometimes, 21 mm). In the United States,
common thread (nut) sizes are 10mm (16mm), 12mm (14mm, 16mm or 17.5mm), 14mm (16mm,
20.63mm) and 18mm (20.63mm).[8]
Parts of the plug[edit]
Terminal[edit]
The top of the spark plug contains a terminal to connect to the ignition system. Over of the years
variations in the terminal configuration have been introduced by manufacturers. The exact terminal
construction varies depending on the use of the spark plug. Most passenger car spark plug wires
snap onto the terminal of the plug, but some wires have eyelet connectors which are fastened onto
the plug under a nut. The standard solid non-removable nut SAE configuration is common for many
cars and trucks. Plugs which are used for these applications often have the end of the terminal serve
a double purpose as the nut on a thin threaded shaft so that they can be used for either type of
connection. This type of spark plug has a removable nut or knurl, which enables its users to attach
them to two different kinds of spark plug boots. Some spark plugs have a bare thread, which is a
common type for motorcycles and ATVs. Finally, in very recent years, a cup-style terminal has been
introduced, which allows for a longer ceramic insulator in the same confined space.[9]
Insulator[edit]
The main part of the insulator is typically made from sintered alumina (Al2O3),[10][11] a
very hard ceramic material with high dielectric strength, printed with the manufacturer's name and
identifying marks, then glazed to improve resistance to surface spark tracking. Its major functions
are to provide mechanical support and electrical insulation for the central electrode, while also
providing an extended spark path for flashover protection. This extended portion, particularly in
engines with deeply recessed plugs, helps extend the terminal above the cylinder head so as to
make it more readily accessible.
Dissected modern spark plug showing the one-piece sintered alumina insulator. The lower portion is unglazed.

A further feature of sintered alumina is its good heat conduction – reducing the tendency for the
insulator to glow with heat and so light the mixture prematurely.
Ribs[edit]
By lengthening the surface between the high voltage terminal and the grounded metal case of the
spark plug, the physical shape of the ribs functions to improve the electrical insulation and prevent
electrical energy from leaking along the insulator surface from the terminal to the metal case. The
disrupted and longer path makes the electricity encounter more resistance along the surface of the
spark plug even in the presence of dirt and moisture. Some spark plugs are manufactured without
ribs; improvements in the dielectric strength of the insulator make them less important.[citation needed]
Insulator tip[edit]

Two spark plugs in comparison views in multiple angles, one of which is consumed regularly, while the other
has the insulating ceramic broken and the central electrode shortened, due to manufacturing defects and / or
temperature swing

On modern (post 1930s) spark plugs, the tip of the insulator protruding into the combustion chamber
is the same sintered aluminium oxide (alumina) ceramic as the upper portion, merely unglazed. It is
designed to withstand 650 °C (1,200 °F) and 60 kV.
Older spark plugs, particularly in aircraft, used an insulator made of stacked layers of mica,
compressed by tension in the centre electrode.
With the development of leaded petrol in the 1930s, lead deposits on the mica became a problem
and reduced the interval between needing to clean the spark plug. Sintered alumina was developed
by Siemens in Germany to counteract this.[12] Sintered alumina is a superior material to mica or
porcelain because it is a relatively good thermal conductor for a ceramic, it maintains good
mechanical strength and (thermal) shock resistance at higher temperatures, and this ability to run
hot allows it to be run at "self cleaning" temperatures without rapid degradation. It also allows a
simple single piece construction at low cost but high mechanical reliability. The dimensions of the
insulator and the metal conductor core determine the heat range of the plug. Short insulators are
usually "cooler" plugs, while "hotter" plugs are made with a lengthened path to the metal body,
though this also depends on the thermally conductive metal core.
Seals[edit]
Because the spark plug also seals the combustion chamber of the engine when installed, seals are
required to ensure there is no leakage from the combustion chamber. The internal seals of modern
plugs are made of compressed glass/metal powder, but old style seals were typically made by the
use of a multi-layer braze. The external seal is usually a crush washer, but some manufacturers use
the cheaper method of a taper interface and simple compression to attempt sealing.
Metal case/shell[edit]
The metal case/shell (or the jacket, as many people call it) of the spark plug withstands the torque of
tightening the plug, serves to remove heat from the insulator and pass it on to the cylinder head, and
acts as the ground for the sparks passing through the central electrode to the side electrode. Spark
plug threads are cold rolled to prevent thermal cycle fatigue. It's important to install spark plugs with
the correct "reach," or thread length. Spark plugs can vary in reach from 0.095 to 2.649 cm (0.0375
to 1.043 in), such for automotive and small engine applications.[13] Also, a marine spark plug's shell is
double-dipped, zinc-chromate coated metal.[14]
Central electrode[edit]

Central and lateral electrodes

The central electrode is connected to the terminal through an internal wire and commonly a ceramic
series resistance to reduce emission of RF noise from the sparking. Non-resistor spark plugs,
commonly sold without an "R" in the plug type part number, lack this element to reduce electro-
magnetic interference with radios and other sensitive equipment. The tip can be made of a
combination of copper, nickel-iron, chromium, or noble metals. In the late 1970s, the development of
engines reached a stage where the heat range of conventional spark plugs with solid nickel alloy
centre electrodes was unable to cope with their demands. A plug that was cold enough to cope with
the demands of high speed driving would not be able to burn off the carbon deposits caused by
stop–start urban conditions, and would foul in these conditions, making the engine misfire. Similarly,
a plug that was hot enough to run smoothly in town could melt when called upon to cope with
extended high speed running on motorways. The answer to this problem, devised by the spark plug
manufacturers, was to use a different material and design for the centre electrode that would be able
to carry the heat of combustion away from the tip more effectively than a solid nickel alloy could.
Copper was the material chosen for the task and a method for manufacturing the copper-cored
centre electrode was created by Floform.
The central electrode is usually the one designed to eject the electrons (the cathode, i.e. negative
polarity[15] relative to the engine block) because it is the hottest (normally) part of the plug; it is easier
to emit electrons from a hot surface, because of the same physical laws that increase emissions of
vapor from hot surfaces (see thermionic emission).[16] In addition, electrons are emitted where the
electrical field strength is greatest; this is from wherever the radius of curvature of the surface is
smallest, from a sharp point or edge rather than a flat surface (see corona discharge).[16] Using the
colder, blunter side electrode as negative requires up to 45 percent higher voltage,[16] so few ignition
systems aside from wasted spark are designed this way.[17] Waste spark systems place a greater
strain upon spark plugs since they alternately fire electrons in both directions (from the ground
electrode to the central electrode, not just from the central electrode to the ground electrode). As a
result, vehicles with such a system should have precious metals on both electrodes, not just on the
central electrode, in order to increase service replacement intervals since they wear down the metal
more quickly in both directions, not just one.[18]
It would be easiest to pull electrons from a pointed electrode but a pointed electrode would erode
after only a few seconds. Instead, the electrons emit from the sharp edges of the end of the
electrode; as these edges erode, the spark becomes weaker and less reliable.
At one time it was common to remove the spark plugs, clean deposits off the ends either manually or
with specialized sandblasting equipment and file the end of the electrode to restore the sharp edges,
but this practice has become less frequent for three reasons:

1. cleaning with tools such as a wire brush leaves traces of metal on the insulator which can
provide a weak conduction path and thus weaken the spark (increasing emissions).
2. plugs are so cheap relative to labor cost, economics dictate replacement, particularly with
modern long-life plugs.
3. iridium and platinum plugs that have longer lifetimes than copper have become more
common.
The development of noble metal high temperature electrodes (using metals such
as yttrium, iridium, tungsten, or palladium, as well as the relatively high value platinum, silver or gold)
allows the use of a smaller center wire, which has sharper edges but will not melt or corrode away.
These materials are used because of their high melting points and durability, not because of their
electrical conductivity (which is irrelevant in series with the plug resistor or wires). The smaller
electrode also absorbs less heat from the spark and initial flame energy. At one
point, Firestone marketed plugs with polonium in the tip, under the (questionable[by whom?]) theory that
the radioactivity would ionize the air in the gap, easing spark formation.
Side (ground, earth) electrode[edit]
The side electrode (also known as the "ground strap") is made from high nickel steel and is welded
or hot forged to the side of the metal shell. The side electrode also runs very hot, especially on
projected nose plugs. Some designs have provided a copper core to this electrode, so as to increase
heat conduction. Multiple side electrodes may also be used, so that they don't overlap the central
electrode. The ground electrode can also have small pads of platinum or even iridium added to them
in order to increase service life.[19]
Spark plug gap[edit]

Gap gauge: A disk with a tapered edge; the edge is thicker going counter-clockwise, and a spark plug will be
hooked along the edge to check the gap.

Spark plugs are typically designed to have a spark gap which can be adjusted by the technician
installing the spark plug, by bending the ground electrode slightly. The same plug may be specified
for several different engines, requiring a different gap for each. Spark plugs in automobiles generally
have a gap between 0.6 and 1.8 mm (0.024 and 0.071 in). The gap may require adjustment from the
out-of-the-box gap.
A spark plug gap gauge is a disc with a sloping edge, or with round wires of precise diameters, and
is used to measure the gap. Use of a feeler gauge with flat blades instead of round wires, as is used
on distributor points or valve lash, will give erroneous results, due to the shape of spark plug
electrodes.[citation needed] The simplest gauges are a collection of keys of various thicknesses which
match the desired gaps and the gap is adjusted until the key fits snugly. With current engine
technology, universally incorporating solid state ignition systems and computerized fuel injection, the
gaps used are larger on average than in the era of carburetors and breaker point distributors, to the
extent that spark plug gauges from that era cannot always measure the required gaps of current
cars.[citation needed][20] Vehicles using compressed natural gas generally require narrower gaps than
vehicles using gasoline.[21]
The gap adjustment can be crucial to proper engine operation. A narrow gap may give too small and
weak a spark to effectively ignite the fuel-air mixture, but the plug will almost always fire on each
cycle. A gap that is too wide might prevent a spark from firing at all or may misfire at high speeds,
but will usually have a spark that is strong for a clean burn. A spark which intermittently fails to ignite
the fuel-air mixture may not be noticeable directly, but will show up as a reduction in the engine's
power and fuel efficiency.
Variations on the basic design[edit]

Spark plug with two side (ground) electrodes

Over the years variations on the basic spark plug design have attempted to provide either better
ignition, longer life, or both. Such variations include the use of two, three, or four equally spaced
ground electrodes surrounding the central electrode. Other variations include using a recessed
central electrode surrounded by the spark plug thread, which effectively becomes the ground
electrode (see "surface-discharge spark plug", below). Also there is the use of a V-shaped notch in
the tip of the ground electrode. Multiple ground electrodes generally provide longer life, as when the
spark gap widens due to electric discharge wear, the spark moves to another closer ground
electrode. The disadvantage of multiple ground electrodes is that a shielding effect can occur in the
engine combustion chamber inhibiting the flame face as the fuel air mixture burns. This can result in
a less efficient burn and increased fuel consumption. They also are difficult or nearly impossible to
adjust to another uniform gap size.
Surface-discharge spark plug[edit]
A piston engine has a part of the combustion chamber that is always out of reach of the piston; and
this zone is where the conventional spark plug is located. A Wankel engine has a permanently
varying combustion area; and the spark plug is inevitably swept by the tip seals. Clearly, if a spark
plug were to protrude into the Wankel's combustion chamber it would foul the rotating tip; and if the
plug were recessed to avoid this, the sunken spark might lead to poor combustion. So a new type of
"surface discharge" plug was developed for the Wankel. Such a plug presents an almost flat face to
the combustion chamber. A stubby centre electrode projects only very slightly; and the entire
earthed body of the plug acts as the side electrode. The advantage is that the plug sits just beneath
the tip-seal that sweeps over it, keeping the spark accessible to the fuel/air mixture. The "plug gap"
remains constant throughout its life; and the spark path will continually vary (instead of darting from
the centre to the side electrode as in a conventional plug). Whereas a conventional side electrode
will (admittedly, rarely) come adrift in use and potentially cause engine damage, this is impossible
with a surface discharge plug, as there is nothing to break off. Surface-discharge spark plugs have
been produced by inter alia, Denso, NGK, Champion and Bosch.
Sealing to the cylinder head[edit]

Old spark plug removed from a car, new one ready to install.

Most spark plugs seal to the cylinder head with a single-use hollow or folded metal washer which is
crushed slightly between the flat surface of the head and that of the plug, just above the threads.
Some spark plugs have a tapered seat that uses no washer. The torque for installing these plugs is
supposed to be lower than a washer-sealed plug.[22] Spark plugs with tapered seats should never be
installed in vehicles with heads requiring washers, and vice versa. Otherwise, a poor seal or
incorrect reach would result because of the threads not properly seating in the heads.
Tip protrusion[edit]

Different spark plug sizes. The left and right plug are identical in threading, electrodes, tip protrusion, and heat
range. The centre plug is a compact variant, with smaller hex and porcelain portions outside the head, to be
used where space is limited. The rightmost plug has a longer threaded portion, to be used in a thicker cylinder
head.

The length of the threaded portion of the plug should be closely matched to the thickness of the
head. If a plug extends too far into the combustion chamber, it may be struck by the piston,
damaging the engine internally. Less dramatically, if the threads of the plug extend into the
combustion chamber, the sharp edges of the threads act as point sources of heat which may
cause pre-ignition; in addition, deposits which form between the exposed threads may make it
difficult to remove the plugs, even damaging the threads on aluminium heads in the process of
removal. The protrusion of the tip into the chamber also affects plug performance, however; the
more centrally located the spark gap is, generally the better the ignition of the air-fuel mixture will be,
although experts believe the process is more complex and dependent on combustion chamber
shape. On the other hand, if an engine is "burning oil", the excess oil leaking into the combustion
chamber tends to foul the plug tip and inhibit the spark; in such cases, a plug with less protrusion
than the engine would normally call for often collects less foulingand performs better, for a longer
period. In fact, special "anti-fouling" adapters are sold which fit between the plug and the head to
reduce the protrusion of the plug for just this reason, on older engines with severe oil burning
problems; this will cause the ignition of the fuel-air mixture to be less effective, but in such cases,
this is of lesser significance.

Heat range[edit]

Construction of hot and cold spark plugs – a longer insulator tip makes the plug hotter

The operating temperature of a spark plug is the actual physical temperature at the tip of the spark
plug within the running engine, normally between 500 and 800 °C (932 and 1,472 °F). This is
important because it determines the efficiency of plug self-cleaning and is determined by a number
of factors, but primarily the actual temperature within the combustion chamber. There is no direct
relationship between the actual operating temperature of the spark plug and spark voltage. However,
the level of torque currently being produced by the engine will strongly influence spark plug
operating temperature because the maximal temperature and pressure occur when the engine is
operating near peak torque output (torque and rotational speed directly determine the power output).
The temperature of the insulator responds to the thermal conditions it is exposed to in the
combustion chamber, but not vice versa. If the tip of the spark plug is too hot, it can cause pre-
ignition or sometimes detonation/knocking, and damage may occur. If it is too cold, electrically
conductive deposits may form on the insulator, causing a loss of spark energy or the actual shorting-
out of the spark current.
A spark plug is said to be "hot" if it is a better heat insulator, keeping more heat in the tip of the spark
plug. A spark plug is said to be "cold" if it can conduct more heat out of the spark plug tip and lower
the tip's temperature. Whether a spark plug is "hot" or "cold" is known as the heat range of the spark
plug. The heat range of a spark plug is typically specified as a number, with some manufacturers
using ascending numbers for hotter plugs, and others doing the opposite – using ascending
numbers for colder plugs.
The heat range of a spark plug is affected by the construction of the spark plug: the types of
materials used, the length of insulator and the surface area of the plug exposed within the
combustion chamber. For normal use, the selection of a spark plug heat range is a balance between
keeping the tip hot enough at idle to prevent fouling and cold enough at maximal power to prevent
pre-ignition or engine knocking. By examining "hotter" and "cooler" spark plugs of the same
manufacturer side by side, the principle involved can be very clearly seen; the cooler plugs have a
more substantial ceramic insulator filling the gap between the center electrode and the shell,
effectively allowing more heat to be carried off by the shell, while the hotter plugs have less ceramic
material, so that the tip is more isolated from the body of the plug and retains heat better.
Heat from the combustion chamber escapes through the exhaust gases, the side walls of the
cylinder and the spark plug itself. The heat range of a spark plug has only a minute effect on
combustion chamber and overall engine temperature. A cold plug will not materially cool down an
engine's running temperature. (A too hot plug may, however, indirectly lead to a runaway pre-ignition
condition that can increase engine temperature.) Rather, the main effect of a "hot" or "cold" plug is to
affect the temperature of the tip of the spark plug.
It was common before the modern era of computerized fuel injection to specify at least a couple of
different heat ranges for plugs for an automobile engine; a hotter plug for cars that were mostly
driven slowly around the city, and a colder plug for sustained high-speed highway use. This practice
has, however, largely become obsolete now that cars' fuel/air mixtures and cylinder temperatures
are maintained within a narrow range, for purposes of limiting emissions. Racing engines, however,
still benefit from picking a proper plug heat range. Very old racing engines will sometimes have two
sets of plugs, one just for starting and another to be installed for driving once the engine is warmed
up.
Spark plug manufacturers use different numbers to denote heat range of their spark plugs. Some
manufacturers, such as Denso and NGK, have numbers that become higher as they get colder. By
contrast, Champion, Bosch, BRISK, Beru, and ACDelco use a heat range system in which the
numbers become bigger as the plugs get hotter. As a result, heat range numbers need to be
translated between the different manufacturers. The same numbers have very different meanings
between different manufacturers. In this case, plugs with the same heat range numbers can't be
interchanged casually as being equal. To give an extreme case, NGK's BR2LM is equivalent to
Champion's RJ19LM, which is a common spark plug for many lawnmowers.[23]

Reading spark plugs[edit]

The spark plug's firing end will be affected by the internal environment of the combustion chamber.
As the spark plug can be removed for inspection, the effects of combustion on the plug can be
examined. An examination, or "reading" of the characteristic markings on the firing end of the spark
plug can indicate conditions within the running engine. The spark plug tip will bear the marks as
evidence of what is happening inside the engine. Usually there is no other way to know what is going
on inside an engine running at peak power. Engine and spark plug manufacturers will publish
information about the characteristic markings in spark plug reading charts. Such charts are useful for
general use but are of almost no use in reading racing engine spark plugs, which is an entirely
different matter.[why?]
A light brownish discoloration of the tip of the block indicates proper operation; other conditions may
indicate malfunction. For example, a sandblasted look to the tip of the spark plug means persistent,
light detonation is occurring, often unheard. The damage that is occurring to the tip of the spark plug
is also occurring on the inside of the cylinder. Heavy detonation can cause outright breakage of the
spark plug insulator and internal engine parts before appearing as sandblasted erosion but is easily
heard. As another example, if the plug is too cold, there will be deposits on the nose of the plug.
Conversely if the plug is too hot, the porcelain will be porous looking, almost like sugar. The material
which seals the central electrode to the insulator will boil out. Sometimes the end of the plug will
appear glazed, as the deposits have melted.
An idling engine will have a different impact on the spark plugs than one running at full throttle.
Spark plug readings are only valid for the most recent engine operating conditions and running the
engine under different conditions may erase or obscure characteristic marks previously left on the
spark plugs. Thus, the most valuable information is gathered by running the engine at high speed
and full load, immediately cutting the ignition off and stopping without idling or low speed operation
and removing the plugs for reading.[citation needed]
Spark plug reading viewers, which are simply combined flashlight/magnifiers, are available to
improve the reading of the spark plugs.
Two spark plug viewers

Indexing spark plugs[edit]

"Indexing" of plugs upon installation involves installing the spark plug so that the open area of its
gap, not shrouded by the ground electrode, faces the center of the combustion chamber rather than
one of its walls. The theory holds that this will maximize the exposure of the fuel-air mixture to the
spark, also ensuring that every combustion chamber is even in layout and therefore resulting in
better ignition. Indexing is accomplished by marking the location of the gap on the outside of the
plug, installing it, and noting the direction in which the mark faces. Then the plug is removed and
washers are added to change the orientation of the tightened plug. This must be done individually for
each plug, as the orientation of the gap with respect to the threads of the shell is random. Some
plugs are made with a non-random orientation of the gap and are usually marked as such by a suffix
to the model number; typically these are specified by manufacturers of very small engines where the
spark plug tip and electrodes form a significantly large part of the shape of the combustion chamber.
The Honda Insight has indexed spark plugs from factory, with four different part numbers available
corresponding to the different degrees of indexing to achieve most efficient combustion and maximal
fuel efficiency.[citation needed]

How to Gap a Spark Plug

BY HOWSTUFFWORKS.COM CONTRIBUTORS
UP NEXT
When you buy a new spark plug for your car engine, the packaging may state
that it is pre-gapped, but its gap may nevertheless need to be adjusted for your
particular vehicle. This is especially true if the spark plug was mishandled or
dropped during packaging or shipping.

Find out from your car owner's manual or from your car dealer what the ideal gap
is for a spark plug in your car. You should always read your car's owner's manual
before servicing your engine, and refer to the spark plug manufacturer or a
professional auto mechanic if you have any questions.

Keep in mind that the higher the compression in your engine and the more power
it makes, the smaller a gap your spark plug will need. The larger the gap, the
more voltage you'll need from your ignition so the spark can jump across that gap
[NGK Spark Plugs].

Here's how to gap your new spark plug:

1. Use a feeler gauge to check the gap of the spark plug.

2. Choose the correct wire based on the size of the gap.
3. Run the wire between the two electrodes of the spark plug. The wire
should catch on them as it passes through.
4. Widen the gap, if necessary, by hooking the gauge on the ground
electrode and tugging gently. Be careful that the gauge touches only the
ground electrode and not the porcelain or the center electrode.
5. Narrow the gap, if necessary, by pressing or tapping the ground electrode
gently against a clean, soft surface.
6. Check the gap and adjust it as necessary [source: DENSO].
Don't adjust your spark plug gap more or less than .008 inch (.2 millimeters)
because if you do, the two electrodes may not line up properly, which will hinder
the performance of your spark plug
 A properly gapped spark plug is necessary for a properly functioning engine. The gap
size affects the spark plug's firing temperature, which has a direct relationship to the
combustion of fuel and air in the engine. Opening the gaps provides a larger spark,
useful for some customized engines in maximizing the efficiency. You can learn to
properly gap spark plugs by measuring and adjusting accordingly.

Measuring the Gap

1.

1
Learn your vehicle's gap specifications. Whether you're shopping for new plugs, you
just bought new plugs that you want to check before installing, or you want to check the
function of your current set of spark plugs, you need to learn the appropriate gap
between the two electrodes on the end of each plug.
 Each vehicle's measurement will be different, though most are generally somewhere
between 0.028-.06 inch. You can either look in your owner's manual or go to the auto
parts store and have them look it up for you.
 Modified engines require smaller gap settings to account for the amount of power you're
putting through the engine. General rule of thumb: the more power, the smaller the gap.
 Select an appropriate gap tool. There are several varieties of tools used to measure
the gaps of spark plugs, some of which are more appropriate for more modern plugs,
which sometimes feature delicate precious metals. Most measuring tools will also
feature a flat edge typically used for bending the bottom electrode on the spark plug to
adjust the gap slightly.[1]
 A coin-style gap measure is usually the cheapest option, and works by running the edge
of the "coin" through the gap until you reach a point where it stops. The edge is marked
like a ruler, designating the thickness of the edge at that point. This is a good tool for
older plugs you want to check the efficacy of, but can also inadvertently widen the gaps
as you use it.
 A wire coin gap works essentially the same way as the regular coin-style gap, but
features different wire measures of varying lengths on the edge around the coin.
 A blade-style feeler gauge is an effective and versatile tool. Built like a pocket-knife, this
gauge features different blades of varying widths, some with wire on the end and some
without, placed in the gap to check the spacing of the electrodes. You can also use
multiple blades to measure larger gaps. These are effective to use while adjusting.

3
Clean the spark plug. If you've just pulled it out of the box, it should be in pretty good
shape, but if you're checking a plug that you've been using in your car it's a good idea to
clean it off a little with a clean cloth. Spark plugs can build up some whitish soot on the
contact points, so you'll want to make sure they're somewhat clean to get the most
accurate reading.[2]
 You can use a little bit of quick-drying (90%) alcohol on the contact points to clean them
off if they're especially dirty.[3] Lots of build-up or any blackening on the contact points
might be a sign of a plug that's outlasted its prime, however. If they're especially dirty,
you might consider buying new ones.

Determine if the gap needs adjusting. If the tool passes through the gap without
touching the electrodes at the appropriate measure, your gap is too wide. If you can't fit
it between the electrodes, the gap is too small and needs to be widened some. If it fits
closely to the specified measurement, you're safe to install the spark plug. [4]
 Most spark plugs and iridium plugs manufactured today don't need to be gapped prior to
installing them. If you've got a custom modified engine, though, you might be interested
in checking or installing plugs at a different spacing. Adjust them accordingly. [5]

4
Measure the gap by passing the tool through the electrodes. Place the appropriate
blade or wire on your gap tool between the electrode tips of the plug, or pass the coin
through the electrodes to determine the measurement.

Determine if the gap needs adjusting. If the tool passes through the gap without
touching the electrodes at the appropriate measure, your gap is too wide. If you can't fit
it between the electrodes, the gap is too small and needs to be widened some. If it fits
closely to the specified measurement, you're safe to install the spark plug. [4]
 Most spark plugs and iridium plugs manufactured today don't need to be gapped prior to
installing them. If you've got a custom modified engine, though, you might be interested
in checking or installing plugs at a different spacing. Adjust them accordingly. [5]

2
Use the tool to adjust the bottom electrode. When you hold the spark plug with the
electrodes facing the floor, you'll want to bend the bottom one very gently either in
toward the other electrode if you want to narrow the gap, or out, if you want to increase
the gap slightly.
 Never bend more than a few (.02) fractions of an inch. It won't take much pressure, so
be very careful. Spark plugs can be quite delicate, and any fracturing can cause
misfires.
 If you're having trouble using the tool to adjust the gap, consider bending it in using a
flat surface like a table to apply some very gentle pressure on the electrode to adjust it.

3
Re-measure the gap and adjust accordingly. Be very careful not to contact the
electrode in the center of the plug and damage the core. If it breaks or shorts you'll need
to toss it and buy a new one.

4
Be very gentle. Snapping off the electrode will waste your efforts, and it doesn't take
much to do so. Use only a small amount of pressure to bend the electrode and only
bend it a little bit.

Analyzing Spark Plugs

Remove the spark plug and inspect the working end. Its condition will help analyze your
engine’s performance.

 If the spark plug is coated with a light brown deposit, your engine is running properly.
Scrape away the deposits with a knife and wire brush, and keep using the same plug. If
you can’t easily remove the coating because it is too thick, replace the plug.
 If the plug on four-cycle engines is black and oily, this usually means that the piston
rings are worn and must be replaced—they are allowing oil from the crankcase into the
combustion chamber. An oily plug on a two-cycle engine probably indicates too much
oil in the oil-gas mixture. Check your owner’s manual and correct your mixing
procedure.
  If the plug is coated with a black powdery deposit, the gas-air mixture is too rich, or else
the air filter is clogged. This carbon deposit can cause the plug to ground itself on the
engine and spark improperly or not at all. Either clean or replace your air filter.
 If the plug is coated with white or yellow deposits, a higher-test gasoline than necessary
is being used. Check your manual for the correct type of gasoline to use. These deposits
could also mean that there is too much air in the air-fuel mixture. If so, enrich the
mixture by adjusting the carburetor. Turn the needle valve counterclockwise very
slightly. See Adjusting Carburetors.
 If the side electrode is pitted or has a small metallic mound on it, or if the center
electrode has a round, worn appearance, this means that the electrodes are burned.
Burning can also be indicated by a clean, white look. Burned electrodes are caused by
overheating, which can result from any of three causes: (1) an air-fuel mixture that is
too lean, (2) clogged cooling fins on the engine, or (3) incorrect engine timing.
1. To correct the air-fuel mixture, adjust the needle valve on the carburetor (see Adjusting
Carburetors).
2. To clear the cooling fins, simply remove the shroud or cover from the flywheel, and
clear the debris (e.g., grass or soil) from the fins with a small stick or probe.
3. To correct the engine timing, check the points to make sure the plug is adjusted to the
correct gap (see Tuning Gasoline Engines).
To remove the small metallic mound on the side electrode, file between the gap, using a very
small file or thin carborundum paper (special sandpaper with carborundum as the abrasive).
Then reset the points.

Reading 101: How to Read Your Spark Plugs

Posted by David Fuller on December 20, 2012 at 9:00 am

Listen closely because your spark plugs may be trying to tell you something.
Is your engine running too lean? Too rich? Is there an issue with oil control or
ignition timing? Or is everything just fine with your engine? Like the
mechanical version of the Magic 8-Ball, your spark plugs may have the
answers for you. The trick is learning how to read your spark plugs.
With help from the spark plug experts at NGK, we’ll teach you how to diagnose
minor tuning issues or potentially major engine problems by examining your
spark plugs. Check out the images below, courtesy of NGK Spark Plugs, and
get ready to do a little light reading the next time you pull your spark plugs.

Normal
Appearance: A light tan/gray or brownish color, along with very little
electrode erosion, indicates optimal operation conditions, including a healthy
engine and correct spark plug heat range.

Deposits
Appearance & Symptoms: The electrodes—center and ground—are
covered in an ashy coating. As a result of this masking of the electrodes, your
engine may experience a misfire. This build-up of combustion deposits can
eventually (but not usually) fill in the space between the two electrodes.
Possible Causes: Oil leaks, poor fuel quality.
 Wet and Dry Fouling
Appearance & Symptoms: Dry fouling (top) appears as sooty, black build-
up. Wet fouling (bottom) has a wet, sometimes oily appearance. Both
conditions can create poor starting and misfiring.
Possible Causes: Depending on whether the spark plug is coated in oil or
fuel, wet fouling can be symptomatic of a compromised head gasket, poor
control from your pistons’ oil control ring, valvetrain problems, or an
extremely rich condition. Dry fouling, or carbon fouling, is often caused by an
overly rich condition, and the problem may lie with your air cleaner (clogged)
or carburetor. Other possible causes could be low compression, vacuum leak,
overly retarded timing, or improper spark plug heat range.

Lead Fouling
Appearance & Symptoms: Lead fouling can only occur in applications
that use leaded gasoline, such as racing engines. Lead fouling generally shows
up as yellowish brown deposits on the spark plug’s insulator nose. Lead
fouling can cause your engine to misfire only at high-rpm and under hard
acceleration.
Possible Causes: This condition commonly occurs when gasoline contains
too much lead; however, because spark plugs are changed frequently in racing
applications, lead fouling has become less common.
 Breakage
Appearance & Symptoms: The insulator around the center electrode may
be broken (see left) or the ground electrode may be bent. Again, you will likely
experience misfire and some power loss under these conditions.
Possible Causes: If the insulator is broken, it may be the result of
sudden thermal expansion or thermal shock caused by extreme temperatures
or temperature change. Detonation is often the culprit and can be caused by
an extremely lean air/fuel mixture, drastically advanced timing, improper
gasoline octane rating. A broken insulator can also be thermally triggered if
cold fuel is sprayed on a hot insulator. Center and ground electrode damage is
often the result of mechanical collision with internal engine components or
excessive vibration. The mechanical collision occurs when a spark plug has too
long of a reach. Vibration is generally the result of improper installation.

Melting
Appearance & Symptoms: In this case, the center or ground electrode is
melted or scorched, and your engine may be experiencing some power loss.
Possible Causes: According to NGK, melting often results from loose
installation, which prevents the plug from properly transferring heat from its
tip. But melting may also indicate unusual heat or hot spots within the
combustion chamber. This excessive heat is often the result of pre-ignition,
which can be created by an overly lean condition, improperly advanced
injection timing, or improper heat range (too low).
 Lead Erosion
Appearance & Symptoms: The tip of the ground electrode looks chipped
and its surface may be thinned.
Possible Causes: Another condition unique to leaded gasoline, this
condition is caused by lead compounds that react chemically with the
electrodes at high temperatures. This makes the electrode material (nickel
alloy) weak and brittle. This is caused by too much lead in your gasoline.

Erosion, Corrosion & Oxidation

Appearance & Symptoms: A plug with a combination of erosion,
corrosion, and oxidation will have pitted and rough electrodes and may even
have a green cast if the oxidation is heavy. These conditions can result in
increased, improper spark plug gap and yield poorer performance.
Possible Causes: Typically, these conditions occur over time as lead in the
gasoline reacts with the electrode materials.

Overheating
Appearance & Symptoms: The insulator will have a glazed white
appearance and may have small black deposits. There may also be abnormal
electrode wear, and you will likely notice a loss of power at high speeds or
under high engine load.
Possible Causes: Overheating may occur from over-advanced ignition
timing, poor cooling system efficiency, lean air/fuel mixture, vacuum leak, or
wrong spark plug heat range (too low).

Symptoms of Bad or Failing Spark Plugs

Common signs of faulty spark plugs include slow acceleration, loss of
power, poor fuel economy, engine misfires, and difficulty starting the
car.
by Timothy Charlet on

January 12, 2016

1. Slow acceleration
2. Poor Fuel Economy
3. Engine is Misfiring
4. Engine Surging or Hesitating
5. Rough Idle
6. Hard to Start
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Without a spark, there would be no way for fuel to ignite in the combustion chamber.
Spark plugs have been a critical component of the internal combustion engine for years.
Spark plugs are designed to transmit an electrical signal sent from the ignition coil at a
predetermined time to create a spark that ignites the air-fuel mixture inside the
combustion chamber. Each vehicle requires a particular type of spark plug made from
specific materials and with a designated spark plug gap set by a mechanic during
installation. Good spark plugs will burn fuel efficiently, while bad or failing spark plugs
can cause the motor not to start at all.

Spark plugs are similar to motor oil, fuel filters, and air filters in that they require routine
service and maintenance to keep your engine running strong. Most vehicles sold in the
United States require their spark plugs to be replaced every 30,000 to 50,000 miles.
However, some newer cars, trucks, and SUVs have advanced ignition systems that
ostensibly make spark plug replacement unnecessary. Regardless of any warranties or
claims made by a vehicle manufacturer, there remain situations where a spark plug
wears out or shows signs of failing.

Listed below are 6 common symptoms of worn-out spark plugs or spark plugs that have
fouled and need to be replaced by an ASE certified mechanic as soon as possible.

1. Slow acceleration
The most common cause of poor acceleration in most vehicles is a problem in the
ignition system. Today's modern engines have multiple sensors that tell the onboard
computer and ignition system when to send electric pulses to fire the spark plug, so the
issue may be with a faulty sensor. However, sometimes the issue is as simple as a
worn-out spark plug. A spark plug is composed of materials that work together to
produce a spark hot enough to ignite the air-fuel mixture. When those materials wear
out, the effectiveness of the spark plug is reduced, which can significantly reduce the
acceleration of the vehicle.
If you notice that your car is running sluggishly or does not accelerate as quickly as it
used to, it may be attributed to a faulty spark plug that needs to be replaced. However,
you should contact a mechanic to inspect this issue as it could be caused by multiple
other factors including bad fuel filters, dirty or clogged fuel injector, or issues with
oxygen sensors.

Poor Fuel Economy

A fully-functioning spark plug helps burn fuel efficiently in the combustion cycle. When
this occurs, your car can achieve better-than-average fuel economy. When the plug is
not working optimally, it is frequently because the gap between the spark plug
electrodes is either too close or too far apart. In fact, many mechanics will take out
spark plugs, examine them, and adjust the gap to factory settings as opposed to
replacing the spark plug entirely. If your vehicle has an increase in fuel consumption, it
very well could be attributed to a worn out spark plug.

3. Engine is Misfiring
If the engine misfires, it's typically due to an issue in the ignition system. In modern cars,
it's usually due to a sensor malfunction. However, it may also be caused by a spark plug
wire or the tip of the spark plug that connects to the wire being damaged. An engine
misfire can be noticed by intermittent stumbling or sputtering sounds from the engine. If
the engine is allowed to keep misfiring, exhaust emissions will increase, engine power
will decrease, and fuel economy will drop.

4. Engine Surging or Hesitating

You may notice the engine hesitating while accelerating. In this case, the engine is not
responding correctly to the driver. It may suddenly surge in power, then slow down. The
engine is sucking in more air than it should be in its combustion process, causing the
delay in power delivery. The combined hesitation and surging could indicate a spark
plug problem.

5. Rough Idle
A bad spark plug may cause your engine to sound rough while idling. The vehicle-
encompassing, jittery sound will also cause your vehicle to vibrate. It can indicate a
spark plug problem in which a cylinder misfires only while idle.

6. Hard to Start
If you have trouble starting your vehicle, it could be a sign your spark plugs are worn. As
noted above, the engine's ignition system is comprised of multiple individual
components that must work cohesively in order to function properly. At the first sign of
problems starting your car, truck or SUV, it's a good idea to contact a certified mechanic
to take a look at the cause.

Regardless of what the issue might be, you might end up needing new spark plugs
when yours eventually wear out. Being proactive about spark plug maintenance can
extend the life of your engine by hundreds of thousands of miles.
Spark plug maintenance: How to check spark plugs
By Steve Temple, automedia.com
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In times past, one of the easiest maintenance items on a vehicle was checking and changing the
spark plugs. That was before engine compartments became shrouded in emissions tubing and
computerized sensors. If you’re lucky enough to have an automobile where the spark plugs are
relatively easy to reach, take advantage of it. That’s because they offer telltale indications of
what’s going on in the combustion chamber and the internal health of your engine.

Before you begin ratcheting out your spark plugs in search of suspicious symptoms, a few words
of caution: First, be sure to check all of the plugs. There could be a serious problem brewing in
just one cylinder that you wouldn’t want to overlook. Second, if your plugs indicate a problem
related to the plug’s heat range or the plug is simply worn out, you can fix these problems with a
new, and correct, set of plugs. If the diagnosis is more serious, though, and your plugs are oil-
foiled because of a worn piston ring, new plugs won’t make the worn ring go away. Get the
vehicle to your mechanic for the overhaul, and then replace the plugs.

The following is a comprehensive list of conditions that you may find useful when you are
checking spark plugs:

Normal
When the engine is running the way it should, normal-reading plugs will look pretty much the
same way they did when they were new and first screwed into the engine block.

Normal, but with red coating

The red coating is a result of the additives in lower-quality unleaded fuel and will be visible on
the plug’s ceramic insulation. The red coating is not an indication of any engine problems.
Fuel fouled
Fuel-fouled plugs may have a shiny coating on the tip and side electrode, which may indicate a
too-rich fuel mixture, ignition problems or a plug heat range that’s set too low. First, check to
make sure your spark plugs have a heat range that is compatible with your engine (especially if
you’ve made performance modifications). This information is available in your vehicle owner’s
manual. To resolve the too-rich fuel mixture, have the fuel injection (or carburetor) adjusted to
correct the air/fuel mix.

Detonation damage
This plug condition indicates that your engine timing is off and you probably need a tune-up.
Another possibility is that the gasoline you’re using does not have a high enough octane rating.
Again, check the owner’s manual to verify the manufacturer’s recommendation on octane level.

Worn plug
This is an easy fix – replace the plug. Most plug manufacturers indicate the recommended
service life on the packaging.

Carbon fouled
If your plug tip and side electrode are blackened, they have been running with too much fuel (or
possibly too cool from a stuck-open thermostat). Other sources of the problem may include bad
wiring or leaking injectors; in some cases the vehicle has been driven at too slow a speed for
extended periods of time. The combustion process is not being allowed to have its natural
burning-off, or cleaning, effect.

Preignition
The plug will reveal that the side electrode has been burned away from running too hot. The plug
is firing too soon, not enough fuel is present in the air/fuel mixture or there isn’t enough fuel in
the combustion chamber for a sound combustion event. Check your fuel injection and timing.
Take quick action, because a plug in this condition is just short of falling completely apart.

Oil ash fouled

Engine oil is getting to your plugs from worn piston rings or valve guides/seals. Get to your
mechanic now.

Mechanical damage
A mechanically damaged plug will look as if it’s been beaten to death by its piston, an indication
that it extended too far down into the combustion chamber.

The two most common spark plug problems are hot fouling and cold fouling. The “too hot”
category includes the preignition and detonation damage. Some performance improvements may
be the cause for this type of plug damage. If your vehicle has performance upgrades such as a
high-output coil, ignition, exhaust or cams, these can alter the engine’s recommended plug heat
range, so you should consider using a spark plug with a heat range lower than the manufacturer’s
recommendations.
A few of the symptoms indicated by your spark plugs have simple fixes – others require the
hands and expertise of a qualified mechanic. Either way, the main advantage to checking out
your spark plugs is for a quick diagnostic tool that gives you a fairly good idea of how well your
engine is performing.

Spark plug gap: definition and use guide

Hm Geng October 11, 2018 SI Engine No Comments

Spark plug gap refers to the gap between the spark plug center electrode and the grounding electrode.
The gap spacing of general spark plugs is between 0.6 and 1.3 mm.

The larger the spark plug gap is, the longer the arc will be generated when igniting. It is easier to ignite
the gas mixture in the gas cylinder and the kinetic energy will naturally be greater.
 Spark Plug Gap

If the spark plug clearance is too large or too small, the side electrode should be pressed down or prized
to the required range.

Specific spark plug gap is mainly determined by the redundancy of the output voltage of the high-voltage
coil.

Theoretically, the larger the gap, the longer the arc, the greater the ignition energy.

The gap increases within a certain range, which is conducive to the increase of ignition energy.

However, the larger the gap, the higher the voltage needed to break down the air when igniting, so the
spark plug gap matched by different engines is different.

Choose the right spark plug gap to make the engine perform better.

 Influence of large spark plug gap

 Influence of spark plug gap too small
 Reasons for adjusting spark plug gap
 Spark plug gap is normal but not ignition
 Adjustment method of spark plug gap
 New spark plug gap
 Spark plug ignition process
 Influence of spark plug gap on engine condition
 Selection of spark plug gap
 Expression of spark plug gap
 Factors affecting spark plug gap
INFLUENCE OF LARGE SPARK PLUG GAP
 If the spark plug gap is too large to make the breakdown voltage exceed the redundancy of the high
voltage coil output, it will be counterproductive. Not only can the spark plug not increase the
energy of igniting the mixture, but it will cause the spark plug not to flash because of the lack of
high voltage.
 At the same time, high voltage lines, especially high voltage coils, will be overloaded for a long time.
This leads to the fact that the output voltage can not effectively break the mixture to discharge. It
 may even cause the ignition coil to be overheated and cause internal short circuit or circuit
breakage.
 Large clearance and strong ignition, the stronger the spark, the full combustion of the fuel mixture
in the cylinder, so that the body is easy to start, complete combustion, to a certain extent, more
fuel-efficient. In general, the larger the compression ratio and the higher the ignition strength (high
voltage) of the engine, the larger the gap required, and the “larger” standard is described in
accordance with the manufacturer’s relevant standards.
 The driver adjusts the spark plug clearance to a larger extent because it improves ignition
capability and saves fuel. However, after long use, the spark plug electrode is consumed and the
clearance is too large.
 If the selection criteria (including calorific value, etc.) are incorrect and the clearance exceeds the
maximum clearance, it may lead to difficulties in ignition, inability to accelerate, and increased fuel
consumption. In addition, it may cause incidental off-fire (misfire), abnormal dynamic conditions,
incomplete combustion, increased pollution of exhaust gas and so on.
The spark plug of automotive engine is usually changed from 25,000 km to 30,000 km, and the
maximum time is 40,000 km to 50,000 km.

When the spark plug works for a long time, the gap between the two poles becomes larger and larger
due to the spark consumption, and the required spark voltage becomes higher and higher.

The experiment showed that the voltage increased by 7 thousand volts for every 1 mm gap.

It’s easy to start the car at ordinary times. When the weather suddenly cooled down, the cold car could
not catch fire. It was often caused by the excessive gap between the spark plugs.

The spark plug operates for a long time under the condition of large gap, which requires a higher
ignition voltage, resulting in high voltage wire, ignition coil, ignition module work load, shorten the life
or damage.

Some vehicles were in good technical condition the day before, but after a day of parking they were
difficult to start, or even unable to start.In this way, when the cold car starts, the ignition system is
slightly defective, and the spark plug can not jump fire to ignite the mixture.

As for not stepping on the accelerator, the car is easier to start. That is because the intake volume of
cylinder is small, the mixture is thinner, and it is easy to jump fire.

INFLUENCE OF SPARK PLUG GAP TOO SMALL

If the spark plug gap is too small, it will not be able to fully discharge high-voltage electricity, resulting in
its ignition mixture heat is not enough, resulting in insufficient fuel combustion, resulting in a significant
decline in engine power.

If the gap is too small, it may lead to start difficult or even can not start, ignition time is too early,
vibration, noise, heavy tail gas and other undesirable.

REASONS FOR ADJUSTING SPARK PLUG GAP

As we all know, the working environment of the cylinder is very bad, high temperature and high
pressure. Spark plug ignition will generate tens of thousands of volts of high-voltage electricity. For a
long time, the spark plug gap between the two electrodes will become larger due to high voltage
discharge, so the ignition intensity will be weakened, so the spark plug gap should be adjusted.

SPARK PLUG GAP IS NORMAL BUT NOT IGNITION

In practice, sometimes the spark plug clearance is within the specified range, but the engine can not
start normally. When spark gap exceeds this range, it can start work. The reasons for this phenomenon
are:

1. the appropriate working voltage of spark plug is related to gas.When the cold car starts in winter, the
gas molecule is not easy to ionize, and a higher jump voltage is needed. At this time, it is easy to jump
start if the gap is properly adjusted.

2. engine magnetic steel demagnetization. Coil insulation performance decline and other reasons;
magneto voltage is relatively low, at this time the spark plug gap can only be adjusted smaller, to break
through the air, and produce sparks.

3. the piston, piston ring and cylinder liner of the engine are seriously worn out.The reduction of
cylinder compression force makes it difficult to start, but the performance of the magneto is very good.
At this time, the gap of the spark plug can be enlarged appropriately, and the spark produced will be
stronger than before. As the gap increases, the arc is longer, so it is easier to ignite the mixture in the gas
cylinder to improve the starting performance and working performance.

ADJUSTMENT METHOD OF SPARK PLUG GAP

The problem of replacing spark plugs: the gap between old and new spark plugs is different.

The length and calorific value of the new spark plug are the same as the old one, but the gap between the
electrodes of the spark plug is larger.The electrode gap of the old spark plug is 1.0 mm, while the spark
gap of the new spark plug is only 0.75 mm. This 0.25 mm gap is enough to make the engine power and
economic characteristics different.

The first task before installing the spark plug is to adjust the electrode gap of the spark plug. Here we
will only discuss the gap adjustment of the uni-polar spark plug.

Generally speaking, a large screwdriver and thick gauge are needed to adjust the gap between the spark
plugs. But this rule is not universal.

We can substitute all kinds of bank cards.

Here’s how it works: Put all kinds of cards between the old spark plug electrodes, and the cards that just
fit in (with a little resistance) are the standard cards we want.The thickness of the standard card is the
appropriate spark plug gap. We plug the standard card into the new spark plug electrode.

If you can’t plug it in, you need to pry open the side electrode with a screwdriver and measure it again; if
you can plug it in easily, you need to knock back the side electrode a little bit.
The above method is only applicable to spark plugs with short mileage.If the spark plug is used for a
long distance, the spark plug gap will increase, so it can not be our standard reference.

At this point, the spark plug clearance must be adjusted by thickness gauge and screwdriver according
to the spark plug clearance parameters of vehicle instructions.

NEW SPARK PLUG GAP

Whether new or used spark plugs, their clearance should be adjusted to the clearance specified by the
automobile manufacturer:

 This gap has a direct effect on the combustion process of the engine. The gap spacing between
general spark plugs is 0.7~1.1 mm.
 When the spark plug fires, the electrode will slowly be ablated, resulting in an increase in gap. The
gap between the spark plugs used is higher than that at the initial installation time, which is also
normal for 0.5 mm.
 For the new spark plug, the two surfaces of the spark plug electrode are smooth and flat. As the use
time increases, the electrode will become smooth and spark plug gap will also increase.4, so when
adjusting the gap, we should consider the gap becoming longer with the increase of the use time.
SPARK PLUG IGNITION PROCESS
First, explain the ignition process. From spark plug discharge to flame combustion, it is not immediately
fired. A successful ignition must go through these three periods.

1. Ignition Period: The arc breaks down the mixture and ignites it, forming a tiny flame that can be
formed anywhere from the positive to the negative through the arc. This period is called the igniting
period.

2. diffusion period: after the fire point is formed, it will gradually become a bigger fire spot. The arc has
disappeared and the fire point has turned into a fire core. This period is called diffusion period.

3. combustion: expansion of fire core ignites more mixed gas to form flame. This period is also called the
spreading period.

The ignition period is mainly related to the mixture density, discharge intensity and electrode shape.

The higher the compression ratio is, the more dense the mixture is, the less likely it is to ignite; the
higher the discharge voltage is, the easier it is to ignite.

But too high voltage will accelerate the consumption of spark plug; the finer the electrode, the more
easily ignited, the thicker the rounder the less easily ignited.

Ignition gap has a certain impact but not the main, in the normal range of theory can break down the
mixture every time, because the discharge curve of the electrode is not the naked eye to see the hit on
the end, the ignition process has a cumulative area, discharge area, continuation area, generally in the
continuation area there will be 1-2 small discharge process.

The effect of discharge gap on engine working condition is mainly the ignition loss rate.
Diffusion period is the most important period of ignition, during which the size of the ignition nucleus
determines the performance of spark plugs with different gaps and different electrode designs at
different rotational speeds.

The size of the fire core determines the number of mixtures that are eventually ignited at the same time,
and determines the combustion rate of the mixture (only within a relatively small range, do not
misinterpret it as a spark plug that can change the absolute combustion rate of the mixture).

Generally speaking, the larger the diffusion of the ignition core, the faster the combustion speed of the
mixture is, the better the power is, but the diffusion of the ignition core is affected by the heat release
speed of the spark plug and the ignition gap.

INFLUENCE OF SPARK PLUG GAP ON ENGINE CONDITION

The larger the gap, the faster the burning rate of the mixture. That’s a good thing. Why don’t spark plugs
usually use a large gap? There are several reasons for this:

1. Cost: The most common spark plug is nickel-copper alloy. This material is not very good in melting
point, hardness, strength, conductivity, corrosion resistance and other aspects, but compared with
precious metals such as silver, gold, platinum, iridium, such as performance gap is not big and the price
is quite cheap. Due to the lack of its own characteristics, the electrode can not be done very fine, unless
the service life is not considered, so the gap can not be very large, otherwise the fire rate will be very
high.

2. Effect of airflow: It is well known that ignition does not start from the piston to the top dead point,
because it takes time for the flame to spread from start to full combustion. The theory is that the
maximum work is done when the flame is completely burned, and the maximum efficiency is achieved if
the piston is at the top dead point.So spark plug ignition is actually in the rising stage of piston. The
turbulence of the mixture squeezed by the piston in the cylinder is so intense that it blows out the newly
formed core of the flame, causing ignition failure.In this case, the large gap spark plug is not as reliable
as the small gap.

3. The effect of engine speed: the lower the engine speed, the longer the stroke time and the weaker the
relative turbulence. Conversely, the higher the speed, the shorter the time and the stronger the
turbulence.

The higher the engine speed is, the bigger the ignition angle is, so the misfire rate has a great influence
on the engine power output at high speed.

Usually 2000 rpm ignition angle of more than 20 degrees, 6000 rpm to more than 40 degrees or even
close to fifty degrees.

SELECTION OF SPARK PLUG GAP

The large gap spark plug used in internal combustion engine with low rotating speed is favorable for
raising low torsion.

The high speed internal combustion engine should use a small clearance to reduce the ignition rate as
much as possible and obtain a good power.
Besides, the ignition position of the spark plug also affects the power output.

Generally, spark plug electrodes used in low power or low compression ratio engines extend more,
which is conducive to ignition from the center of the combustion chamber, easy to burn.

The spark plug length of high power and high compression ratio engine is short. The flame is closer to
the cylinder head for heat dissipation. Because the temperature of the combustion chamber increases,
the engine will have more detonation tendency. The computer will automatically delay the ignition
angle, and the reduction of the ignition angle will eventually reduce the power output.

We can see the basic performance of a car through the spark plug, and now most of the new cars use
direct injection engines, we can also see that the spark plug electrode is a little shorter.

EXPRESSION OF SPARK PLUG GAP

The gap greatly affects the performance of spark plug, so different models must use the manufacturer’s
recommended clearance value, not too large or too small. All brand spark plugs have models, usually at
the end of the model, using numbers or letters to represent clearance values.

Bosch – at the end of the model using S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z in turn for 0.7 mm, 0.8 mm, 1.0 mm, 1.3 mm,
0.9 mm, 1.1 mm, 1.5 mm, 2.0 mm. The general T (0.8mm) is omitted directly, and many models do not
indicate the gap value.

NGK – At the end of the model or where the second number appears, use 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 15 to
indicate 0.6 mm, 0.7 mm, 0.8 mm, 0.9 mm, 1.0 mm, 1.1 mm, 1.3 mm, 1.5 mm, generally 8 (0.8 mm) is
omitted directly.

DENSO – at the end of the model or where the second number appears, the use of 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 15
in turn to indicate 0.6 mm, 0.7 mm, 0.8 mm, 0.9 mm, 1.0 mm, 1.1 mm, 1.3 mm, 1.5 mm, generally 8 (0.8
mm) is omitted directly. Iridium models do not specify clearance values.

Torch – At the end of the model or where the second number appears, the use of 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 15
in turn to indicate 0.6 mm, 0.7 mm, 0.8 mm, 0.9 mm, 1.0 mm, 1.1 mm, 1.3 mm, 1.5 mm, generally 8 (0.8
mm) is omitted directly.

FACTORS AFFECTING SPARK PLUG GAP

 Intake: The spark plug clearance of a naturally aspirated engine is usually greater than or equal to
0.8 mm, and that of a turbocharged engine is usually less than or equal to 0.8 mm.
 Compression ratio: In theory, the larger the compression ratio, the smaller the clearance, which is
determined by the overall engine parameters and calibration.
 Ignition coil: theoretically, the higher the energy the ignition coil can provide, the higher the
breakdown voltage, the clearance can be properly enlarged, except for turbocharged engine, which
is determined by the overall engine parameters and calibration.
 Electrode material: iridium platinum material, because the electrode is thin, easy to discharge,
theoretically can be appropriately increased. It is determined by the overall engine parameters and
calibration.
ormal
Combustion deposits are slight
and not heavy enough to cause
any detrimental effect on engine
performance. Note the brown to
greyish tan color, and minimal
amount of electrode erosion
which clearly indicates the plug is
in the correct heat range and has
been operating in a "healthy"
engine.
Overheated
A clean, white insulator firing tip
and/or excessive electrode
erosion indicates this spark plug
condition. k This is often caused
Mechanical Damage
May be caused by a foreign
object that has accidentally
entered the combustion
chamber. When this condition is
discovered, check the other
cylinders to prevent a
recurrence, since it is possible
for a small object to "travel" from
one cylinder to another where a
large degree of valve overlap
exists. This condition may also
be due to improper reach spark
plugs that permit the piston to
touch or collide with the firing
end.
Insulator Glazing
Glazing appears as a yellowish,
varnish-like color. This condition
indicates that spark plug
temperatures have risen
Oil Fouled
Too much oil is entering the
combustion chamber. This is
often caused by piston rings or
cylinder walls that are badly
worn. Oil may also be pulled into
the chamber because of
excessive clearance in the valve
stem guides. If the PCV valve is
plugged or inoperative it can
cause a build-up of crankcase
pressure which can force oil and
oil vapors past the rings and
valve guides into the combustion
chamber.
Pre-Ignition
Usually one or a combination of
several engine operating
conditions are the prime causes
of pre-ignition. It may originate
by over advanced ignition,
timing, poor engine cooling
system efficiency (scale,
stoppages, low level), a very lean
air/fuel mixture, or a leaking
intake manifold. When these
conditions prevail, even a plug of
the correct heat range will
overheat.
Gap Bridging
Rarely occurs in automotive
engines, however, this condition
is caused by similar conditions
that produce splash fouling.
Combustion deposits thrown
loose may lodge between the
electrodes, causing a dead short
and misfire. Fluffy materials that
accumulate on the side electrode
may melt to bridge the gap when
the engine is suddenly put under
a heavy load.
Ash Fouled
A build-up of combustion Soft, black, sooty deposits easily
deposits stemming primarily from identify this plug condition. This
suddenly during a hard, fast
acceleration period. As a result,
normal combustion deposits do
not have an opportunity to "fluff-
off" as they normally do. Instead,
they melt to form a conductive
coating and misfire will occur.
Splash Fouled
Appears as "spotted" deposits on
the firing tip of the insulator and
often occurs after a long delayed
tune-up. By-products of
combustion may loosen suddenly
when normal combustion
temperatures are restored.
During hard acceleration these
materials shed from the piston
crown or valve heads, and are
thrown against the hot insulator
surface.
Carbon Fouled
from glowing combustion
chamber deposits, hot spots in
the combustion chamber due to
poor control of engine heat,
cross-firing (electrical induction
between spark plug wires), or the
plug heat range is too high for
the engine or its operating
conditions.
Detonation
This form of abnormal
combustion has fractured the
insulator core nose of the plug.
The explosion that occurs in this
situation apples extreme
pressures on internal engine
components. Prime causes
include ignition time advanced
too far, lean air/fuel mixtures,
and insufficient octane rating of
the gasoline.
Worn
This plug has served its useful
life and should be replaced. The
the burning of oil and/or fuel
additives during normal
combustion ... normally non-
conductive. When heavier
deposits are allowed to
accumulate over a longer
mileage period, they can "mask"
the spark, resulting in a plug
misfire condition.
SOURCE: Champion Spark Plugs
Main
Parts
The main parts of a spark plug are
is most often caused by an over-
rich, air/fuel mixture.
Check for a sticking choke,
clogged air cleaner, or a
carburetor problem - float level
high, defective needle or seat,
etc.
This may also be attributed to
weak ignition voltage, an
inoperative preheating system
(carburetor intake air), or
extremely low cylinder
compression.
Image Source
voltage required to fire the plug
has approximately doubled and
will continue to increase with
additional miles of travel. Even
higher voltage requirements, as
much as 100% above normal,
may occur when the engine is
quickly accelerated. Poor engine
performance and a loss in fuel
economy are traits of a worn
spark
1. Plug Terminal: It
is the portion that is connected to the high tension cable coming from the
distributor cap. It conducts the high voltage to the central electrode.
2. Ceramic Insulator:
It is made up of Aluminum oxide ceramic and acts as an insulator. It separates
the central electrode from earth at up to 40000 Volts. It can be manufactured
in plain form or with profiles to prevent flashover.
3. Metal Body: it is
steel shell manufactured with precision rolled threads for a secure fit, and
easy installation and removal. It provides electrical ground to the cylinder
head and helps to cool plug by transferring heat to the cylinder head.
4. Central Electrode:
It is made nickel based alloys consists of a copper core enclosed in it. Depending
upon the type, the central electrode can be in platinum or iridium. The high
voltage is applied to the central electrode from the secondary winding through
the distributor.
5. Ground Electrode:
It is welded to the metal body of the SP. It makes spark path with the central
electrode. It is made up of nickel based alloys ( or iridium or titanium
reinforcement)
6. Sealing washer/ Gasket:
It makes sealing with the cylinder head and helps in heat dissipation.
7. Insulator tip: It
is extended into the combustion chamber. It has greater influence on the
thermal rating of the spark plug
8. Electrode Gap: It
is the distance in between the central electrode and ground electrode. The
electrode has crucial role in the spark generation. If an appropriate gap is
not provided to the plug than if cannot produce sufficient spark to ignite the
fuel and may leads to misfire.

Types of Spark Plug

On the basis of the relative operating temperature range of
the tip of the high tension electrode, it is divided into two types.

1. Hot spark plug:

It has long heat transfer path and a large area exposed to the combustion gases.
2. Cold spark plug:
It has short heat transfer path and small area exposed to the combustion
gasses.
 Working

 When a high voltage current from the distributor is passes

to the spark plug.
 The central electrode and ground electrode is applied to a
very high voltage up to 40000 V.
 Due to this high voltage difference between the central
electrode and ground electrode, the air in between the electrode gap gets
ionized.
 The ionized gas becomes conductor and conducts current from
central electrode to the ground electrode producing spark.
 The spark produced is used to ignite the air-fuel mixture in
the engine cylinder.
Hot Spark Plugs Vs Cold Spark Plugs

A spark plug is a device for delivering electric

current from an ignition system to the combustion chamber of a SI engine or Petrol engine to ignite
the compressed fuel/air mixture by an electric spark.
Based on Heat Range it is of two types: Hot type spark plug & Cold type spark plug.
A spark plug is said to be “hot” if it is a better heat insulator, keeping more heat in the tip of the spark
plug. A spark plug is said to be “cold” if it can conduct more heat out of the spark plug tip and lower
the tip’s temperature. Whether a spark plug is “hot” or “cold” is known as the heat range of the spark
plug. The heat range of a spark plug is typically specified as a number.
In a spark plug, the metal shell of each fitting works at a nearly indistinguishable temperature from
the metal of the head itself.Plugs with the same diameter will still have different lengths of the
insulator nose. This means, they each can indicate which one is hotter and which one is cooler. In
most cases, spark plugs are made with various warmth ratings, from extremely cool to exceptionally
hot, so an alluring attachment can be found for your motor. This is, of course, contingent upon what
you require, such as your riding or driving conditions.
The warmth scope of a spark plug varies. It has aone-moment-impact inthe burning chamber of the
internal combustion engine and generally motor temperature. A chilly fitting won’t tangibly chill off a
motor’s running temperature. A hot spark plug takesa few minutes to return to its normal
temperature. In this temperature, plugs have a big role as both spark plugs are dependent on
temperature.
Difference between Hot Plugs and Cold Plugs
Hot Plugs
 Have a long Insulator nose.
 A great surface area exposed to the hot combustion gases.
 Heat transfer to the engine head is slower.
 Its firing end heats up quickly.
Cold plugs
 Have a short Insulator nose.
 A less surface area exposed to the hot combustion gases.
 Heat transfer to the engine head is quicker.
 Its firing end does not heat up quickly.
How to Test Spark Plugs
B Y C ONTR IBUT OR

When you experience a sluggish engine, there's a good chance that you could
have a bad spark plug. Difficulty cranking, low momentum while running or
sluggish performance in your engine can all mean spark plug failure. You can
take your problem to a professional mechanic for a complete diagnosis, but
there's a way you can test the spark plugs yourself.

Step 1
Start by disconnecting each spark plug wire on your engine one at a time while
the engine is running. If the engine drops speed or starts running rough when
one is disconnected, you know that spark plug is good. If you disconnect a
spark plug and no significant change happens in the engine, you have found a
bad spark plug.

Step 2
Test the spark plug ignition by disconnecting the spark plug wire from the
spark plug. Hold the end of the spark plug wire close to a metal surface. If the
spark plug is good, you will see a spark or you'll hear a crackling noise. This
means that voltage is getting through the wire to the spark plug.

Step 3
See if there is a spark on each one of your spark plug wires when the engine is
cranked. If compression is good, you will have spark on each one of your spark
plug cylinders. No spark would mean that a spark plug wire is dead.

Step 4
Remember that each link connected to your spark plugs needs to be hooked up
securely. Links include battery cable, ignition wires and coil wires, not just the
spark plug wires.

Step 5
Wiggle the link connections from your spark plugs. Then test again.
Sometimes it's just a matter of a line connection being loose.
Check to make sure that the end of each of the spark plugs is clean and free of
any dirt, oil or grease deposits. Sometimes you can just clean them thoroughly
and they'll pass the test. But if they still don't test well after cleaning, you'll
need to replace them.

Warning

 Protect yourself against the risk of shock while testing spark plugs. Wear
rubber gloves and don't lean against any metal part of your vehicle while
the engine is running.