PR 2202 : Cosmetics and Perfumes

Acne

AY2018-2019, Semester 1
Celine Liew

Acknowledgements:
Thanks to Perry Lim
PR2202: Schedule Week 6 - 13
Week Tuesday Friday

6 18 Sep 21 Sep
Tutorial on Cosmetics lectures Smell: Odour classification
25 Sep - TERM BREAK 28 Sep - TERM BREAK

7 2 Oct 5 Oct
CA3 Written test Perfumes: Raw materials - 1
8 9 Oct 12 Oct
Perfumes: Raw materials - 2 Perfumes: Safety aspects
Consumer/regulatory information (Labels for review - Self-directed learning exercise)

9 16 Oct 19 Oct
Tutorial: Labels for review & Perfume families Perfumes: Creative aspects - 1
10 23 Oct 26 Oct
Perfumes: Creative aspects - 2 Perfumes: Technical aspects
* Submission deadline for CA1 Individual take-home
assignment/quiz
11 30 Oct 2 Nov
Acne Q&A session for group project
12 6 Nov 9 Nov
Deepavali (No class) 1) Guest speaker – industry talk
2) Tutorial/Q&A (lectures/group project)
13 13 Nov 16 Nov
Tutorial Q&A/Consultation session (Optional)
2 for CA2 Group project
* Submission deadline
Lecture outline
▪ Why and How Acne Happens?
▪ Types of Acne Lesions
▪ Genetic Connection
▪ Acne from Cosmetics
▪ Who Gets Acne?
▪ Scarring from Acne
▪ When to Consult a Health Professional?
▪ Basic Care for Acne

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Why and How Acne Develops?
▪ Acne is a disease of the sebaceous hair follicle.
▪ Under normal circumstances, sebum produced by sebaceous
glands travels up the hair follicle and out onto the skin surface.
▪ In acne, sebum is trapped within the follicle.
▪ Acne develops on areas of the skin where sebaceous glands
are most numerous.

▪ Acne vulgaris is common or ordinary acne.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:HairFollicle.png 4
Why and How Acne Develops?
▪ Four basic factors for the development of acne:
– Hormones (androgens)
– Increased sebum production
– Changes inside the follicle
– Bacteria

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Why and How Acne Develops?
▪ Hormones (androgens):
– Acne begins when the body starts to produce
hormones (androgens) at about age 11 to 14 years.
– Androgens cause sebaceous glands to enlarge, which
is normal.
– People who develop acne have sebaceous glands that
are over-stimulated by androgens.
– Young women have acne flare-ups that coincide with
hormonal changes associated with their menstrual
cycle.

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Why and How Acne Develops?
▪ Increased sebum production:
– As sebaceous gland is stimulated by androgens, it
produces more sebum.
– Sebum accumulates in the follicle.
– As sebum travels up the follicle, it mixes with normal
skin bacteria and dead skin cells.

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Why and How Acne Develops?
▪ Changes inside the follicle:
– As androgen production increases, sebaceous glands
enlarge.
– Normally, dead cells inside the follicle shed gradually
and are expelled onto the surface.
– During puberty, these cells shed more rapidly and
tend to stick together.
– When the cells mix with sebum, they can clog the
follicle.

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Why and How Acne Develops?
▪ Bacteria:
– Clogged follicle becomes a breeding ground for
bacteria.
– One type of bacteria specifically involved is
Propionibacterium acnes or P. acnes.
▪ P. acnes is a normal resident on the skin. It ingests
the sebum.
– As the follicle gets clogged, sebum builds up inside
and P. acnes multiply rapidly.

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Types of Acne Lesions
▪ Various types of acne lesions defined primarily by
their size and whether they are non-inflammatory or
inflammatory.

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 Types of Acne Lesions
▪ Non-inflammatory lesions:
– Open comedones
– Closed comedones

Open comedones Closed comedones

(Blackheads) (Whiteheads)
▪ Contents of the follicle are ▪ They are white or skin-coloured,
firmly impacted inside. small bumps on or under the
▪ Tightly compacted cells and skin.
sebum give the follicle its
“black” appearance.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMHT0025359/?figure=2 11
Types of Acne Lesions
▪ Inflammatory lesions:
– Basically three types of inflammatory lesions:
▪ Papules
▪ Pustules
▪ Nodules

– They have a red colour, often making a ring around

the pimple itself.
– They result when sebaceous materials from the
comedo get into the surrounding tissue and cause an
inflammatory reaction.

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Genetic Connection
▪ Virtually everyone gets acne to some degree.
▪ If teenager’s parents or older siblings have had
severe acne, then that teenager is likely to have
severe acne too.
▪ There seems to be similarities in acne among family
members regarding the types of acne lesions,
duration of acne, severity of acne, etc.

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Acne from Cosmetics
▪ Comedones may be caused by certain cosmetics and
toiletries containing ingredients that can clog pores. Such
products are comedogenic.
▪ People should look for “non-comedogenic” cosmetics and
toiletries.

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Almost Everyone Gets Acne
▪ Close to 100% of people between age 12 and 17
have at least an occasional whitehead, blackhead or
pimple.
▪ Many young people are able to manage acne with
over-the-counter (OTC) / non-prescription
treatments.
▪ For some, acne is severe enough to require
treatment by a physician.
▪ Acne starts between age 11 and 14, and usually last
for 5 to 10 years. It normally goes away in early 20s,
but can persist into late 20s or 30s or even beyond.

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Almost Everyone Gets Acne
▪ Acne affects young men and women.
▪ Young men are more likely to have more severe,
longer-lasting forms of acne.
▪ Young women are more likely to have intermittent
acne due to hormonal changes associated with
menstrual cycle, and acne caused by cosmetics.

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Scarring from Acne
▪ Scarring occurs because acne is a skin disease, and
the skin responds by trying to repair itself.
▪ The process of repair can produce a scar that looks
like a pit in the skin, but not every mark left on the
skin by acne is a scar.
▪ A red mark on the skin called an erythematous
macule will fade in 4 to 6 months after an acne
outbreak. This red macule is not a scar.

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When to Consult a Health Professional?

▪ A person may try to treat acne with home remedies

or OTC / non-prescription items from the pharmacy
before consulting a doctor.
▪ Two or more acne products may be used to treat
different acne causes. Check with your pharmacist
before you combine acne products.
▪ Acne can be treated by preventing its development.
Treatments do one or more of the following:
– Unplug clogged pores
– Reduce sebum production
– Reduce P. acnes

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When to Consult a Health Professional?

▪ Make an appointment with a doctor when:

– Results achieved with OTC / non-prescription acne
products are unsatisfactory
– Acne interferes with enjoyment of life
– There are acne scars in addition to acne lesions
– Acne lesions are large and painful

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Basic Care for Acne
▪ General guidelines:
– Do not pop, squeeze or pick at acne.
– Gently wash your face twice a day with a gentle
cleanser that has pH of around 5.5. Vigorous washing
and scrubbing can irritate your skin.
– After washing, use appropriate acne products.
– Style your hair so that it does not directly touch the
forehead and face. Keep items that directly touch the
face and hair very clean.

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Basic Care for Acne
▪ General guidelines: (continued)
– Give acne products enough time to do their job. Ask a
pharmacist or dermatologist for more information
about how long a particular product needs before acne
begins to clear up.
– Some acne products can increase the skin’s sensitivity
to sunlight. Use protective clothing and sunscreens,
and avoid tanning booths.
– Reduce stress associated with over-work.

▪ See a dermatologist if the above guidelines do not yield

satisfactory results.

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Acne Products
▪ Examples of ingredients & functions

Function Ingredients
Antibacterial Benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, tea tree oil

Exfoliating Salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid

Comedolytic Benzoyl peroxide, tretinoin (drug)

Tea Tree Oil = Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

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Acne Products: Examples
Face Wash Face Wash
Tea tree oil Salicylic acid
(Antibacterial) (Exfoliating)

Face Scrub
Lactic acid beads
(Exfoliating)

Toner Toner Toner

Salicylic acid Lactic acid Glycolic acid
(Exfoliating) (Exfoliating) (Exfoliating)

Acne Gel
Sulfur (Antibacterial)
Salicylic acid (Exfoliating)

Acne Pimple Medication

Benzoyl peroxide (Antibacterial/Comedolytic)

Acne Treatment Cream

Tretinoin (Comedolytic) 23
Acne Face Wash Formulation
Acne Face Wash Ingredient Function
Water
Glycerin
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Polysorbate 20
Phenoxyethanol
ACNE
FACE Panthenol
WASH Tea Tree Oil
Limonene
Sodium Hydroxide
CI 19140 (Yellow)
CI 42090 (Blue)

Tea Tree Oil = Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

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Acne Gel Formulation
Acne Gel Ingredient Function
Water
Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
ACNE GEL

Glycerin
Sulfur
Salicylic Acid
HPMC
Tocopheryl Acetate
Butylated Hydroxytoluene
Methyl Paraben
Pyridoxine HCl
HPMC: Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose

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 Questions
True (T)
or
False (F)
As androgen production decreases, sebaceous glands enlarge.

The greater the sebum production, the greater is the likelihood that the
hair follicle will become clogged.
Propionibacterium acnes is the prevalent bacterium causing acne.

Open and closed comedones are typical examples of inflammatory

acne lesions.
From the term “non-comedogenic” on a skincare cosmetic product, it
could be inferred that the product is formulated so as not to cause
clogged/blocked pores.

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