Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Definition of Nursery
"A vegetable nursery is a place or an establishment for raising or handling of
young vegetable seedlings until they are ready for more permanent planting.
“Advantages of nursery raising in vegetable production
1) It is convenient to look after the ‘Baby’ seedlings
2) It is possible to provide favourable growth conditions i.e. germination as well
as growth
3) Eliminates the problem of difficult soils
4) Easy weed control
5) Reduced field management costs
6) Improved crop uniformity
7) Higher yields
8) More optimal use of Hybrid seeds
9) Shorter growing season and more efficient use of land
10) More accurate prediction of harvest date.
3 Disadvantages of nursery raising in vegetable production
1) Transplant shock which delays growth but is not as severe on cell raised
seedlings compared to bare rooted seedlings.
2) Cost of seedlings which adds to production cost.
3) Extra labour to establish crop.
4 Factors to be considered for raising a nursery
1) Location of the nursery
2) Near the house
3) Well exposed to the sun but protected against severe heat
4) Well protected against animal damage, strong winds.
Nursery management
Pests and diseases
Hygiene has a vital role in the control of pests and diseases.
Understand pests and diseases that could affect the growth of healthy
seedlings
Care must be taken with the use of pesticides within enclosed areas.
Note also that in a greenhouse plants can be more sensitive to chemicals
than in the open field.
MARKETING
There are two choices in marketing the plants:
Trays of plants are sent out as orders. or
Plants are pulled and bulk delivered in crates or boxes.
• Pulled plants may be stored in the cool room for two to three days, but
should be planted as soon as possible.
• A high rejection rate of plants before delivery indicates a production problem
which must be addressed and cannot be tolerated.
Contribution
Contribution of quality seed to the total production is 20% depending upon the
crop it can be further raised up to 45% with efficient management of other
inputs, like the use of healthy seedlings.
Soil type
The soil of a seedbed needs to be loose and smoothed, without large lumps.
These traits are needed so that seeds can be planted easily, and at a specific
depth for best germination. Large lumps and uneven surface would tend to
make the planting depth random. Many types of seedlings also need loose soil
with minimal rocky content for best conditions to grow their roots. (For
example, carrots grown in rocky soil will tend not to grow straight.)
Seedbed preparation
Seedbed preparation in farm fields often involves
secondary tillage via harrows and cultivators. This may follow primary tillage (if
any) by moldboard plows or chisel plows. No-till farming methods avoid tillage
for seedbed preparation as well as later weed control.
Seedbed preparation in gardens often involves secondary tillage via hand tools
such as rakes and hoes. This may follow primary tillage (if any)
by shovels, picks, or mattocks. Rotary tillers provide a powered alternative that
takes care of both primary and secondary tillage.
The preparation of a seedbed may include:
1. The removal of debris. Insect eggs and disease spores are often found in
plant debris and so this is removed from the plot. Stones and larger
debris will also physically prevent the seedlings from growing.
2. Levelling. The site will have been levelled for even drainage.
3. Breaking up the soil. Compacted soil will be broken up by digging. This
allows air and water to enter, and helps the seedling penetrate the soil.
Smaller seeds require a finer soil structure. The surface the soil can be
broken down into a fine granular structure using a tool such as a rake.
4. Soil improvement. The soil structure may be improved by the
introduction of organic matter such as compost or peat.
5. Fertilizing. The nitrate and phosphate levels of the soil can be adjusted
with fertilizer. If the soil is deficient in any micro nutrients, these too can
be added.
The seedlings may be left to grow to adult plants in the seedbed, perhaps after
thinning to remove the weaker ones, or they may be moved to a border as
young plants.
See also
Causes of Disease
Damping Off disease thrives in cool or cold, dark or cloudy, wet or damp
conditions. The disease is airborne, and can spread very quickly from one
seed tray to another.
The fungal spores take root in your soil and quickly spreads across the
seed tray, jumping to other trays with ease. It is fatal to young seedlings,
nipping them off at the soil level.
Treatment
As with other plants diseases, prevention is the best means of treatment.
Follow the do's and don't's listed below. If Damping Off disease does take
hold in your seed trays, act immediately. Remove diseased sections to
minimize the spread. If it has affected a significant number of plants,
replant in new soil and clean containers. Do not reuse the soil. Either use
new containers, or sterilize the ones you were using. We recommend new
containers.
POOTING MEDIA
Product Description
Wonder Brick is an eco-conscious soilless potting medium that is made from renewable
coconut coir fiber, worm castings, mycorrhizae, kelp and water-saving polymer crystals.
This 100% biodegradable potting medium maximizes growing success for both the
professional and hobby grower. WonderBrick saves time, labor and freight costs. Each
brick weighs just over 1 lb., yet expands up to 9 times the volume when water is added.
Lightweight, compact and easy to use, these bricks will expand to fill one 2.5 gallon pot.
Details
Features
*Professional soil mix in brick form
*Expands to fill 2 1/2 gallons
*Feeds up to 4 months
*Saves up to 50% water
*Enriched with worm castings
*Contains no fillers
*Easy to use and store
*Promotes better aeration
*Promotes better drainage
*Promotes stronger root systems
*Faster successful gardening results
*Can be used with existing soil or used alone
Usage
1) Place brick(s) in a wheelbarrow or large bucket.
2) Add 1 gallon of hot water for each brick used. Allow 20 minutes for block to absorb the
water.
3) After full expansion, stir off any excess water.
PLANT SEEDLINGS
What are the proper way of handling seedlings?
Handle seedlings by their leaves to avoid damaging the tender stems. Poke a hole in the
new container's planting mix, place the seedling in the hole, and firm soil around it. Water
the transplant right away. Keep the containers out of direct sunlight for a few days to let
the transplants recover from the move.
Non-Hybrid Asparagus
Non-Hybrid Arugula Seeds Non-Hybrid Beet Seeds
Seeds
Non-Hybrid Cauliflower
Non-Hybrid Cabbage Seeds Non-Hybrid Carrot Seeds
Seeds
Cabbage is grown Carrots have been The most difficult of
for its head of renowned for over the cole crops to
leaves, which are 2,000 years for their grow, cauliflower
eaten raw, cooked, health properties flourishes when
or processed into and high vitamin A temps. are
sauerkraut. content. moderate.
Non-Hybrid Cucumber
Non-Hybrid Collard Seeds Non-Hybrid Cress Seeds
Seeds
Collards are among It�s peppery taste Whether for
the most heat adds zing to salads, pickling or slicing,
tolerant of cole but hot weather cucumbers are easy
crops and its makes this cool- to grow if you give
taste is improved by season crop bitter them
frost. and inedible. good soil.
Non-Hybrid Radicchio
Non-Hybrid Radish Seeds Non-Hybrid Rhubarb Seeds
Seeds
The small red and Easy to grow and This tart, easy-to-
white heads of this ready to harvest in grow perennial is
chicory family just 3 to 6 great for pies &
member form best weeks. Winter jams, especially
in cool weather. It varieties produce when coupled with
is a staple in Italian large, fall-harvested strawberries.
salads. roots.
Non-Hybrid Rutabaga
Non-Hybrid Scallion Seeds Non-Hybrid Shallot Seeds
Seeds
Easy-to-grow root A gourmet favorite,
A young onion
crop is a favorite for these perennial
before the
fall and winter onions produce a
development of the
soups and dishes, cluster of smaller
bulb. Widely used in
& can also be used bulbs instead of
Chinese cooking.
raw in salads. one large bulb.