Knitting: Introduction

Course Outcome of Knitting Technology

CO1 Differentiate knit and woven structure, various knitting elements, and
knitting actions.
CO2
Classify and Compare warp and weft knitting, Explain the technology of loop
formation.
Sr. No. Course Code Course Semester Year
CO3
10 NTT-704 Knitting Technology VII FINAL Y. B. Tech
Compare various knit structures and their formation with proper diagram

CO4 Describe various parts and mechanisms of various weft knitting machines,
calculate production
CO5 Describe various parts and mechanisms of warp Knitting machines, calculate
production.
 Knitting Technology: (L T P 3 1 0) credits =4

Unit 1: Difference between knits and wovens, knitting terms and definitions (Course, wale, stitch density) different
type of knitting needles: bearded needle, latch needle, sinker, jack, cam arrangement, overlap, under lap, closed lap,
open lap.
Total Lectures required =8

Unit 2: Comparison of warp and weft knitting, Classification of weft knitting machine, elements of knitting machine like
type of needles, sinkers, etc Needle numbering system, technology of loop formation, geometry of loop structure,
Elements of loop structure: needle loop, sinker loop, relation between yarn count, machine gauge and stitch density.
Total Lectures required =9

Unit 3: Classification of knit-structures, loop formation on: single jersey, Rib machines and inters look machines,
socks knitting technology, Loop formation on flat bed machine
Total Lectures required =9

Unit 4: Four primary base knitting structures: Plain knitted fabric, Rib fabric, Interlock and Purl fabric, Special knitting
machines: Fabric machine, garment length machine, flat machine, circular machine fabrics and Spacer fabrics.
Total Lectures required =7

Unit 5: Basic warp knitting machines, classification of warp knitting, Modern developments in weft knitting technique,
calculations regarding production, gsm, stitch density etc, Causes and remedies of faults of knitted fabrics.
 Introduction
• Textile fabric is defined as two dimensional plane-like structure made of textile
materials, having reasonable strength, elongation, flexibility, etc., used for
different applications, particularly for apparels.
• Knitting is the second most popular technique of fabric or garment formation
by inter-looping one or one set of yarns.
• Its share in fabric production is about 20%.
• Knitting is the second old technology of fabric formation after weaving.
• It is the technique of fabric formation from single set of yarn (may be one or
any higher number) by inter-looping.
• Knitting technology has the capacity to produce clothing without cutting and
sewing.
 History of Knitting
• The term “Knitting” has been evolved from the Saxon word ‘Cnyttan’ which in
turn was derived from the ancient Sanskrit word ‘Nahyat’.
• The technique of knitting by using two sticks was invented about 3000 years
ago and the same was mainly practiced by the women of royal families for
making gloves, stockings and caps.
• Knitting became a profession only when male got involved around 1500 AD,
and gradually the teaching on knitting started.
• The knitting process was first mechanized (hand driven flat bed machine) by
William Lee in 1589.
• Circular knitting machine came in the market around 1850 and knitting
industry started in India at Kolkata in 1892.
 Advantages of Knitting
• Fabric can be produced from minimum number of yarns, even only one yarn.
• Loop size can be varied to a wide extent and that too very easily.
• During knitting, loops can be transferred from one needle to other.
• The extensibility and stability of the knitted fabric can be engineered.
• The desired porosity or compactness of the fabric can be achieved easily.
• Shaping can be done at the time of knitting on the resultant fabric.
• Yarns generally unsuitable for knitting can be introduced in the fabric as in-
lay.
• Loop structures are easily distorted under tension in application, which
imparts more freedom of movement and comfort of the wearer.
• Fabric with single face, double face, open-work and surface interest can be
knitted according to requirement.
• The number of yarns to be knitted in the same fabric can be varied by
selection.
• The total number of needles for loop formation can be varied from knitting
cycle to cycle.
• Yarn can easily flow from one loop to another under tension.
• Wastage of yarn during conversion of yarn in to fabric by knitting is negligible.
• Knitting can produce fabrics which are very much suitable for intimate wears
as well as for technical applications.

Reasons for Growth of Knitting

• Capital investment for starting a new knitting unit is less than that required
for other fabric-producing industries.
• No yarn preparatory machinery is required in weft knitting and only
• warping is needed in warp knitting.
• Machine productivity is high.
• Time required to get an order executed is less than weaving.
• Knitting is more flexible than weaving, i.e. styles and designs can be changed
rapidly.
• Textured and many other fancy yarns can easily be knitted and converted to
light weight fashion garments.
• Knitted fabrics results wrinkle-free and ease-of-care garments with better
form fitting and comfort.
• Labour compliment requirement is less in knitting; hence problems related to
labour are less.
• Modern knitting machines, particularly warp knitting machines can produce
various types of technical textiles (medical textiles, automobile textiles, geo-
textiles, etc.).
• Seamless garments can directly be made in knitting.
• Knitted garments have very good demand in export market.
• Computer-aided designing and manufacturing in knitting have made it
possible to manufacture any desired structure within a short time at
reasonable price.

Knitting Industries in India

• Hosiery goods are mostly manufactured in small sector.
• There is a number of fairly big size organized units for manufacturing both
woollen and cotton hosiery.
• The hosiery units are situated throughout the country but mostly centred at
Kolkata, Ludhiana, Tirupur, Mumbai and Delhi.
• The hosiery industry not only meets the internal demand of the country but
also earns valuable foreign exchange.
• Knitting industry in India established well after the industrial revolution in
Europe. It was first set-up only in 1892 at Kolkata.
• Till 1980s knitting industry was predominantly organized as either cottage
industry or small scale industry, units being mostly family enterprises.
• Later on the hand knitting industry started in Ludhiana for manufacturing
woollen sweaters.
• Then the industry gradually spread throughout the country with the inclusion
of many other items (garments) in knitting.
• Though knitting units are located throughout the country, a few places have
emerged as prime knitting centres.
• These are Tirupur in south, Ludhiana, Delhi and Kanpur in the north, Kolkata
in the east and Mumbai and Ahmedabad in the west.
• Tirupur and Kolkata have specialized in cotton underwear knitwear using
circular single jersey and double jersey machines.
• Ludhiana and Kanpur are exclusive centres for woollen and acrylic outerwear
knitwear items using single and double flat bed machines.
• Recently the knitting industry in India has concentrated in Tirupur (Tamil Nadu) and
has expanded like beyond imagination.
• Tirupur produces 60% of India’s total knitwear exports.
• Knitted garments account for almost 32% of all exported garments from India.

Today, knitting is a complex industry of four main types, each of which has its
subdivisions of specializations.
• The first type produces knitted fabrics by weft (flat or circular) or warp knitting
technique for apparel manufacturers, sewing centres, consumers and others.
• The second type manufactures knitted garments by cutting and assembling from
knitted fabrics.
• The third type manufactures shaped knitted garments (panel knitting and
assembling or integral garments).
• The other one is engaged in both fabric knitting and garment manufacturing in the
same factory premises.
Comparison between Weaving and Knitting
Weaving Knitting
 Classification of Knitting
• Knitting is primarily classified as weft knitting and warp knitting.
• This classification is based on the direction of movement of yarn with respect
to the direction of fabric formation.
• If the yarns run in the width or crosswise direction with reference to the
direction of fabric formation during knitting, then the process of knitting is
called weft knitting.
• The yarns in the knitted structure are
just like weft yarns in woven fabrics.
Such structures are called weft-knitted
fabrics or jersey fabrics,
• and the machines in which such
structures are produced are called weft
knitting machines.
• In case the yarns run in length direction, i.e. the
direction of fabric formation during knitting, the
process is called warp knitting.
• The yarns inside the knitted fabrics are just like
the warp yarns in woven fabrics.
• Such knitted fabrics are called warp knitted
fabrics, and the machine which produces such
fabric is known as warp knitting machine.
 Classifications of Weft Knitting
• Weft knitting machines are classified in various ways.
• The main basis of classification is the needle bed.
• Needle bed is the platform or frame on which needles are arranged at regular
pattern.
• There are grooves or cuts at regular interval to accommodate the individual
needles so that those can move up and down or to and fro along the needle
axis for loop formation but restricted to move laterally.
• The machines are called either single bed (single jersey) or double bed
(double jersey in UK and double knit in USA) machines.
• Further, the shape of the bed may be flat or circular: flat bed machine or
circular bed machine.
• Thus combining the number and shape of the bed, a total combination of
four types of machines is possible.
• Flat single bed machines are generally horizontal or slightly angled.
• But the two beds in flat machines are generally inclined making an angle of
about 90° at the meeting point.
• The single circular bed is cylindrical and vertical.
• But circular double beds are of two types – (a) two cylinders facing each
other, or (b) dial and cylinder type, i.e. cylinder at the bottom and dial (a
circular plate) at the top.
• The dial and cylinder type machines are more common in commercial uses.
• The same machines may be classified as hand-driven machine and power-
driven machine.
• Based on Structure of fabric produced: The four basic weft-knitted structures
are (a) plain, (b) rib, (c) interlock and (d) purl.
• The plain structure is made in single jersey / bed machine whereas the other
three are made in double jersey / bed machine.
Sometimes different design elements/devices are fitted in knitting machine and
then those machines are given names according to the element/ device
attached to the machine.
(a) knitting machine with pattern wheel
(b) knitting machine with jacquard
(c) knitting machine with multiple cam track arrangement
(d) knitting machine with intarsia facility
(e) knitting machine with CAD and CAM.

Sometimes, some machine is developed and used to produce some special end
product. i.e. socks knitting machine, terry knitting machine, sliver knitting
machine, etc.
Knitting machine can produce continuous fabric like weaving or can make
garment with proper shaping.
• On the basis of the product, machines may be classified as fabric length
machine or garment length machine.

There is another type of weft knitting machine according to shape of the

needle bed equipped with bearded needles called straight bar frame.
 Classification of Warp Knitting machine
• Based on the features of warp knitting, the machines available are classified
into two categories: Tricot and Raschel.
• Both Tricot and Raschel may be made with either single needle bar or double
needle bar.
Difference between Weft and Warp Knitting
Weft Knitting Warp Knitting
Weft Knitting Warp Knitting
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