The Basic Trouser System
The Measures
Side seam to top of heel = 104 cm
Inseam to top of heel = 80/40 cm
Waist measure = 84/42 cm
Seat measure = 100/50 cm
Difference between waist and seat = 16 cm
Hem measure = 42/21 cm
The Foundations
Diagram 530
L-B start square here
L-K height of knee = ½ inseam + 1/10 of full length
of inseam (altogether = 48 cm)
L-S inseam according to measure = 80 cm
L-B side seam according to measure = 104 cm
S-G height of seat = 1/10th of half seat + 3 cm
L-L1 shorten at the hem by ca. 4 cm for hem width
of 42 cm
(It is always recommended that the side and leg seams
be measured to the top of the heel and recorded in the
measurements book. This forms a certain reference point
for all trousers including variations according to hem
width and taste.)
Square upwards joining L1, K, S, G, B
Measuring from left to right:
1. The side seam length (taken down to
the top of the heel of the shoe)
2. The inseam length
Rundschau Cutting System for Trousers • from Der Zuschnitt XVI Edition • 1959
Top Side Width and Centre Crease
Diagram 531
B-b Adjustment at the hip = 2/10th
difference of seat and waist
measures (here 16cm) = 3.2cm
Example:
Seat = 100 cm
Waist = (-) 84 cm
Difference = 16 cm
2/10th of 16cm = 3.2 cm
b-B1 Top side width = ¼ waist measure
(without ease for pleats)
B1- Place square vertically to find
points g and S1
g-G1 point of fork (right side) = 1/10th of
half seat + 1 cm
G-G1 Find point M (the centre crease
line) the half way point between
G-G1
M- Square upwards and downwards
from point M. The distance
between G-M can also be carried
over to L1-M2
(For a more open leg stance subtract 1 to 2 cm
from G-M)
M2-M Extend centreline upwards.
Dia. 531 • Top Side Width
Dia. 530 • The Foundations and Centre Crease
Fork and Leg Width
Diagram 532
M2-a/b The width of topside is
dependent on the width of foot.
With a narrow foot, the width of
top side is ½ hem measure minus
1 cm. With wider hems widths, the
width of topside is ½ foot width
minus 2 cm.
a- For the hollow of side seam, move
in 1 cm. Extend the guideline to G
forming K1 at knee level.
b- For the hollow of leg seam move
guideline in 1 cm, to G1; find K2
at knee height, go upwards to S2,
the right fork.
g- Displace guideline 2 cm deeper
downwards, to S2; place square on
guideline and join S1 to n
Dia. 532 • Fork and Leg Width Dia. 533 • The Completed
Topside without Pleats
The Completed Topside without Pleats
Diagram 533
b-b1 Allowance to waistband to hold
on the topside while sewing on
the waistband = 1 cm.
b1-a Shape side seam as shown. Note
the gentle hollowing towards the
bottom.
b1- Raise corner of band edge up by ¾
to 1 cm. Complete line to M1 with
a gradual curve.
B1-S2 Complete the fly edge towards the
right side as shown; place about 1
cm deeper than n
B1-b2 Left fly edge is given an extra ¾
cm so that it hides the seam of the
right fly on the finished trouser.
S2-S3 Addition for the left side = 1.5 cm
b2-S3 fly edge for the left side finished as
shown in the diagram
S2-b Leg seam for the right side. Note
gradual hollowing.
S3-K2 leg seam for the left side
Dia. 534 • The Foundations
of the Underside
The Foundations of the Underside
Diagram 534
Lines are drawn across for the bottom
of the leg, height of knee, height top of leg
seam, height of seat extended outwards on
both sides
a/b Hem width for the underside =
displace 2.5 cm each side.
K1/K2 Knee width for underside =
displace 3 cm each side.
c/d Displace each side by 1 cm.
K3/c side seam guideline
K4/d leg seam guildeline
M-m centreline = displace 1 cm
Seat breadth = ¼ seat width + 5 cm additional
= 30 cm
(For trousers without pleats, the width
of the waistband on the topside at the level
of the hips becomes somewhat narrower,
usually something desirable when the pleats
are left out)
m-S6 Depth of back fork seam = ¼ seat
breadth (30 = 7.5 cm)
S-S5 Standard angle = placement 1.5
cm higher.
Dia. 535 • The Completed
Underside
Should the trouser be more crooked
and thereby have greater length of seat, the
square is placed at S. If the underside is very
straight, the square is placed higher than S5 so
that its shortens the seam. The desired angle
(straighter/more crooked) can be achieved by
altering the placement of the square.
S5-S6 Lay down square. Draw guideline
upwards from S6-B3
S6-B3 Find point G2 at midway between
S6-B3
G2-G3 breadth of seat (as calculated
previously by the formula ¼ seat
width + 5cm ease = 30cm)
K3-G3 side seam guideline
K3-B4 Length of topside K1-b1 is carried
over to here.
M3-B4 Sweep across in an arc to find the
height of the underside and mark
point B5
B5-B6 shorten by 1 cm for height of
waistband
B6-B4 waistband guideline
G3-m Measure this distance...
m-G4 ...and carry over the measure after
adding 1cm to find the point of
the leg seam.
G4-K4 Make leg seam guideline and form
point S4
The Completed Underside
Diagram 535
S4- Tip of leg seam = displacement
downwards ½ cm
S4-d Form leg seam according to
pattern.
B6-B7 Breadth of waist = ¼ waist width +
2.5 to 3 cm
B7-B4 = shortfall or excess
B4-c Complete side seam elegantly
according to diagram.
B6-S4 Seat seam is completed as shown
Darts: the leftover width is given to the
darts which form completed seam. The form
and position is as shown.
B6-B4 waistband edge as per diagram
Narrow trousers in particular must be
worked up with the iron to keep their shape.
All edges allow for ¾ cm seam allowance.
The seam and darts represent completed
seams. Inlays need to be added.