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Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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Scandinavian Talent: NN07

SEX SEX SEX

The Temperature Rises at Annhagen
Hot Boys at jean//phillip
Stine Goya goes Burlesque

By Malene Birger & the ‘LBD’

Today’s Shows
Soulland,
Moonspoon Saloon
Wood Wood
Cover photo: CHRISTIAN BRYLLE, SCOOP MODELS AND EVA HELENE, UNIQUE, IN jean//phillip
Photo by Oliver Katibi Stalmans(www.katibiphotography.com)
PG. 2
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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Editorial
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by Chris Pedersen
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Whip It
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GBP 5.00 DKK 90.00 DAnsK FAshion MAGAzinE sPRinG 2009 issuE 21
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— A message of SEX SEX SEX emanated loud and clear from some of
— my favorite collections this season. Jørgen Simonsen presented
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— a collection that brought me directly back to my younger days
— when I would slash my Guns’n Roses t-shirts and pretend to
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be a bad-ass rocker, hiding my provincial dump background.

NEW ISSUE OUT NOW RELAX

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— Jørgen Simonsen’s red carpet numbers might not suit my day-to-
— day needs (being a man and all), but kudos to anyone facing
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Publishers
these times with a blast of glamour.
—
Copenhagen Fashion Week and DANSK Magazine
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Editor-in-chief
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Chris Pedersen
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Project Coordinator/Editor I also regret not being able to wear the all-female Designers
Rozanna Fritz
Remix Collection. Perhaps because I am bald, I really like
Executive Editor
Anne Christine Persson the idea of a helmet made out of hair. And the riding oufits -
Subeditor consisting of a red jacket and white shirt – delivered a punch
Magnus Jorem
to the stomachs of boring, old hags everywhere.
Art Direction/ Graphic Design
Applied Projects/ applied.dk

Assistant Graphic Designer

Kim Christian BrAmskov/ Style Counsel What might suit me, though, is jean//phillip’s dark visions
Web Editor
Mads Kruse
featured on todays cover. I really look forward to seeing him
Writers
develop as a designer. His message is clear and I love the idea
Stinne Jensen, Kathrine Haue, Charlotte Wendt Jensen,
Susanne Madsen, Helle Rohde, Mathias Vestergaard,
of going to work dressed like an punk – with a dash of luxury.
Mads Arlien-Søborg

Photographers
Anders Von Greffelstejn/ andersvongreffelstejn.com The energy of these collections symbolize the healthy need
Oliver Katibi Stalmans/ katibiphotography.com
Mark Emil Hermansen/ markemilhermansen.com
Sacha Maric/ sachamaric.com
to stand out in the sea of Danish mediocity. Years of living
Emile Sadria/ emilesadria.com
Rasmus Brøndsted /madeinschool.com
in the safe cocoon of economic security have made us afraid
Emil Thomsen Schmidt /madeinschool.com to stand out, and the downturn will hopefully inspire both
Illustrators
Femmes Regionales/ femmesregionales.com
designers and consumers to take a stance both stylistically –
Editorial assistants
and politically.
Cathrine Møss
Ditte Rares
Louise Rosenmeier

Distribution Take a stand and take care until the next round of Copenhagen
Emilie Møller
Louise Rosenmeier Fashion Week in August.
Print
Elbo Print A/S

Editor-in-Chief
Chris Pedersen

Relax - don’t panic

We speak to the
effortlessly relaxed
Dries Van Noten
And make plans to
gatecrash Balmain’s
elegantly trashy party

21 LiBERty Ross in Louis vuitton

PG. 04
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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News
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A Danish Force of Nature

Foto: Thomas A.
If you want to see one of the best things
Danish fashion has to offer, then hit the
Kasper Bjørke shop Force of Nature for a closer look at the
Danish DJ and producer Kasper Bjørke new collection by Hans Christian Madsen. HCM
is a vital part of the Danish club finished his Masters degree at Royal College of
scene, spinning his records at a Art in London in 2007, receiving praise for his
number of cool venues. Apart from clean and intelligent designs, which captured
being part of the duo Tomboy, which the strong relations between clothes and body.
just released a compilation of their After that, he helped create Diesel Black Gold,
best works to date, he is set to and most recently he has created a t-shirt-
release a solo project on Plant collection for Parisian fashion store Colette.
Music soon. We asked him about For the collection sold in Force of Nature, Hans
his three favorite nightspots in Christian Madsen has focused on the contrasts
Copenhagen. between different materials and a redefinition
of shapes and silhouettes. The result is an
1. Jolene interesting take on masculinity.
I helped the owners of the bar set — forceofnature.com
up their soundsystem back in the
day, when they opened their bar in
Georg Jensen on WHEELS the original Nørrebro location.
Good health, proximity to nature, and environmental sustainability are Since then, it has moved to the
all integral parts of the Scandinavian lifestyle. All three are united in meatpacking district (Kødbyen, close
bicycling – which in Copenhagen is not just a favorite pastime, but an to the central station). I have been
essential mode of transportation. As part of the global premier of its new going there regularly for drunken
Scandinavian Luxury Lifestyle store concept, Georg Jensen has launched nights in the DJ booth with the
WHEELS – a unique bicycle designed and produced in Denmark. The surface of other half of Tomboy, and alongside Casch Copenhagen changes name to Gróa
the bicycle resembles the handmade surface of the silver hollowware pieces Djuna, Eif, Fredski, and others. After having concentrated on upgrading its design profile
made by Georg Jensen himself 100 years ago. The bicycle is produced in a Jolene has this amazing, loose vibe for the past few seasons, Casch Copenhagen has now changed
limited number and will be presented along with the new Georg Jensen Store and energy, which reminds me of ownership, and taken the new name Gróa., inspired by Norse
Concept in the US, Australia, Taiwan and Denmark. Reykjavik’s legendary Sirkus Bar - Mythology. With new partners Gro and Nils, the label –
but since it’s only two minutes from busier than ever, especially in the United States – hopes
where I live, I have to admit it’s to transform its design visions into even more coherent and
even better than Sirkus was! The sharp collections. Their AW09 collection is inspired by the
Peter Jensen puts a spin on the classic suit Handbag queens interiors invite you to go nuts and hard/soft contrasts of oyster shells, and will by the looks
Falbe is best known for its classic suits, but Danish accessories brand becksöndergaard copenhagen was jump on the couches. That and the of it take the company to a new level.
this season the Danish menswear brand has asked founded by Lis Beck and Anna Søndergaard in 2003, with the friendly vibe of the staff are only — groa.dk
designer Peter Jensen to inject a splash of his aim to create timeless designs rooted in unpretentious two of the reasons why I have to put
humorous style into the collection. This London- Scandinavian design traditions, but with inspirations from Jolene as number one on my top three
based designer has gone through the archives of international fashion trends. Today the brand is represented list.
the historic company in search of unique details globally and the collection not only includes a unique Easy shopping
to put into a modern context. To Jensen, the fit selection of handmade eelskin accessories, but also leather 2. Vega It’s getting easier and easier to shop at your favorite store. Fabulous vintage store FN92 offers
has been the most important factor in his design bags, purses, belts, printed scarves, fine knitwear and Vega has been the main live venue in a wide selection of products and theatrically customized showpieces in their new online shop.
process. ‘I have updated the silhouette by jewelry. The AW09 collection is inspired by 1920s art deco Copenhagen for years and years – and Eksempel, Gentlemen’s Affair and Won Hundred have also opened up for online shopping and are now
making it sharper and more modern,’ says Peter with a healthy dose of humor and strong colors. ‘We try to it’s also one of the best nightclubs only a click away from your closet. Happy shopping.
Jensen. DANSK Daily thinks this is a match made create accessories that you grow even fonder of over time. We in town. The international bookings — eksempel.com
in heaven, so look out for the collection when don’t believe in the buy-and-discard mentality – you might are sharp, ranging from techno to — gentlemensaffair.com
it hits the shops this spring. get tired of an item after some time, but the best thing post-disco, and there is a really — wonhundred.com
— falbe.dk is when you rediscover it in your closet after a while and great atmosphere, plus the building — fn92shop.com
— peterjensen.co.uk feel like wearing it again. And that is only possible if you itself is an astonishing piece
Photo tim walker, british vouge
succeed in creating designs with personality,’ says the well- of architecture from the 1950s,
accessorized duo. designed by Vilhelm Lauritzen.
— becksondergaard.com I’m looking forward to spring with
acts like Aeroplane, Holy Ghost,
Miss Kittin and Yacht dropping by.
And notice the bouncers - they One little stylist had big
look as mean as they’re supposed issues dressing and
to, but are the coolest and most wore a dress way too tight
professional dudes I’ve ever come
across in that particular line of One little stylist got
business. annoyed by the fit and
died in a fashion cat fight
3: Ritz
Despite the soundsystem’s
shortcomings, the venue being too
small, and the stickiness of the
floor in the late hours, I have to
say that Ritz is the new shit among
Copenhagen bars.
Since the WhoMadeWho Christmas party
last year, I have been a fan of this
‘new’ Istedgade / red light district
bar. It used to be a place where
you would pick up hookers and buy
drugs from behind the counter. Real
Tea is the new coffee ghetto. But now some kids have taken
Sing Tehus is one of the best places in Copenhagen to buy over the joint and turned it into a
tea. The people behind this teahouse stock teas of the Geography Class proper Berlinesque trash-bar with
highest quality, and want to give the customers an experience The Future Mapping Company puts a fashion spin on the nerdy-boy-room-classic: the great DJ’s like the Tartelet crew,
they won’t forget. Stop by Sing Tehus and try one of the world map. The maps combine up-to-date data with a strong focus on design, creating Kim Kemi and many more. This is
amazing aroma teas, or their excellent Japanese green tea. cartography for the twenty-first century - geography never looked this sexy. where I go AFTER Jolene closes and
Sing Tehus, Skindergade 25, 1159 Copenhagen K — futuremaps.co.uk BEFORE Dunkel Bar. The perfect (de)
route for a classic hangover.
PG. 06
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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Focus
Living in a DAY Dream
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By Kathrine Houe
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Although it has grown into quite a big business, DAY Home Collection started out as a fun side project.
Today the interiors collection counts pillows, ceramics, scents, blankets, lamps and even a few pieces of
furniture that together with the DAY Birger et Mikkelsen mens- and womenswear collections complete the DAY
lifestyle universe.

Living in a DAY
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Dream

Coffee is served in big, black mugs as DANSK Daily stops
by at DAY Birger et Mikkelsen’s cozy head offices at Kongens
Nytorv in central Copenhagen to talk to Marianne Brandi about
the birth and life of the Home Collection, which she heads.
Marianne Brandi is married to Keld Mikkelsen – founder and
creative director of successful Danish clothing company DAY
Birger et Mikkelsen. Having worked with interior design for
many years, Marianne joined her husband’s company a few
years back as head of visual communication and the interior
decoration of the label’s shops, showrooms and trade fair stands.
But then, in 2005, a vacation to Morocco added a new perspec-
tive on the brand.
‘At the airport on my way back to Denmark, I saw two pillows
that I simply couldn’t resist. And even though Keld thought
I had already bought way too much stuff, I bought them. The
pillows had the most beautiful stitching but the colors where
awful, and when I got back to Copenhagen I had them made in
black and white and ended up using them in our showrooms,’
Marianne reveals.
The pillows got so popular that customers that visited the
showrooms kept asking if they could order them, and Marianne
ended up putting them into production. From that day on, the
DAY Home Collection has just kept growing.
‘In the beginning I stood for everything that had to do with the
Home collection. And for a while, people saw it as just a piece
of entertainment for Keld’s wife. But then, when it actually
started developing into a good business and I started hiring
people who knew about interiors to assist me, everybody started
to take me seriously,’ Marianne says, smiling.
Today the Home Collection consists of two different lines:
home classic and home season. While the classic line boasts
a wide selection of different products in blacks, whites and
grays, the season line follows the trends in the fashion-seasons
and contains a more restricted selection of different products in
brighter and bolder colors.
‘The whole idea with the DAY Home collection is to dress your
home after the seasons, just like you would with clothing. When
winter is over you tuck away the woolen and dark fabrics and go
for light and bright hues instead. In the beginning, I borrowed
the color card from our clothing design team, but soon I realized
that this was a bit too wild. Today we work with a separate color
card for our interiors,’ Marianne explains.
But even though the home collection has it’s own color card,
the link between the label’s clothes and the Home Collection
is very strong and a lot of work is put into making the idiom in
the clothes and the interior design the same. Just like the DAY
Birger et Mikkelsen clothing lines, the Home Collection is based
on a mix between classic, ethnic and modern influences, and
when Marianne is out looking for new inspiration she normally
turns to the fashion world:
‘I borrow a lot from fashion. Fashion still moves much faster
than interiors, and you always see the new tendencies much
earlier there than you do in interiors. Not that fashion and
interior design should be the exact same, but for DAY it makes
sense that everything we produce contributes to the DAY
universe – having both provides us with a kind of synergy. And
as I work with seasonal collections and DAY is still mainly a
fashion brand, it seems very natural to me to use the fashion
world as a point of departure.’
PG. 08
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
— Couples
Focus
Danish Design and Fashion
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Words Mads Arlien Søborg
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Hear the words ’Danish design’ and the first thing that comes to mind is Arne Jacobsen and ’50s
furniture design, an export associated with Denmark across the globe. Since then, fashion has
taken the lead within Denmark’s creative industries. Yet furniture design is still alive and
kicking, with new talents pushing the industry forward and making the similiarities between
fashion and furniture design clearer than ever.
— —
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— Danish design and fashion
louise campbell for hay mads nørgaard
Danish design is founded on long and proud traditions started in the 1950s by
furniture pioneers Arne Jacobsen, Hans Wegner and Borge Mogensen. These
furniture architects truly mastered their crafts, whether working with metals or
wood and today, they personify Danish design, especially to international audi-
ences, with their trademark qualities: clean lines, simple shapes and a function-
alist sensibility.
The works of these designers are timeless classics that still strike us as modern.
They also have exhorbitant price tags. This exclusivity – and their status as upper
class furniture - is a far cry from the original philosophy, however. The ideal
for these designers was democracy rather than exclusivity, and they aimed to
create pieces that ordinary people could afford, doing to the chair and table what
Volkswagon did to the automobile. In other words, Jacobsen and Wegner designs
shouldn’t be confined to bourgeois homes in affluent Copenhagen suburbs, but
be attainable by everyone. Although this never came to be, it was an interesting
concept, one that now seems to have been appropriated by Swedish furniture
conglomerate IKEA, which has succesfully commercialized the idea of demo-
cratic design.
In essence, Danish design traditions are built on a foundation of simplicity, func-
tionality and craftsmanship. Looking at the new generation of Danish furniture
designers, it is evident that these values are still fundamental to Danish design.
Although shapes, materials and especially techniques have changed greatly over
the decades, the same essential ideals pervade Danish design.
Louise Campbell is one of contemporary Danish design’s most compelling
talents. Whether within furniture, lighting or housing accessories, her work has
combined tradition with innovation to revitalize Danish design for the twenty-
they aimed to create pieces that ordinary people
could afford, doing to the chair and table what
Volkswagon did to the automobile.
first century. Take her Prince Chair for Hay, for instance, or her Lampen Collage
Pendel for Louis Poulsen, and you can see a unique sense of shape, function and
materials that is through-and-through modern.
Another major contemporary Danish designer is Jacob Wagner. Last year he rose
to the top of the international design world with a beautiful, simple table produced
by the prestigious Italian company B&B Italia. Although internationalized and
released on the Italian market, the same design principles – simplicity, function-
ality, and a mature sense of materials – guide Wagner’s process.
Not only have individual designers managed to demonstrate the contemporary
relevance of these essential values. More and more design companies have
hay
managed to bridge tradition and renewal, one of these being Muuto. In just a few
PG. 09 years, the founders behind Muuto have succeeded in building a company others
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week SS09 Thursday 07.08.08 can only dream of.. Their recipe has really been rather simple: to combine smart
— business with great design. Founders Kristian Byrge and Peter Bonnen aren’t
actually designers. They are business men with well developed eyes for design,
Silly Bee but, equally importantly, they truly understand how to handle budgets, branding,
— and the media. They leave the creative aspect of the company to the designers,
handpicking some of the most prominent members of the new Scandinavian
— design generation. But they don’t just leave it at that. Their concept is present in
every single detail, from their web design to the packaging, which looks so great
it gets placed right next to actual products in stores.
—
— Muuto isn’t the only company with this kind of thoroughgoing approach to
— design. HAY belongs to the same category of new, innovative design companies
— that have plunged into a difficult industry with confidence and brave ideas. HAY
— was founded by Rolf Hay and clothing label Bestseller in 2003, aiming to create
innovative furniture design with respect for Danish design traditions from the ’50s
and ’60s. A pioneer within the industry, Rolf Hay has from the very beginning
tried to give Danish design a new face. Not only has he been using young and
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promising designers, he has also had the guts to try out new technologies and
materials, while keeping prices reasonable.
Since the golden age of Danish furniture design in the 1950s, wood has been the
preferred material of Danish designers. In a certain sense, you could even say
that the Danish design movement is rooted in a handcraft tradition that revolved
around giving shape to wooden elements – in other words, carpenting skills. The
same goes for Scandinavian design traditions in general and, as such, it should
come as no surprise that many new Danish furniture designers still work with
various kinds of wood as their material of choice.
And this similarity, between furniture and fashion
design, is no coincidence – they build on the same
values and a similar visual language.
’We Do Wood’ shares this love for wood, and both founding members Sebastian
Jørgensen and Henrik Thygesen are furniture carpenters – with an emphasis on
the carpenter part. Since 2006, they’ve created a unique collection of furniture
pieces and kitchens in wood. Traditional types of wood like ashtree, birch or
beech, don’t figure in, however – rather, ’We Do Wood’ designs furniture with
bamboo, which, besides being a strong and durable material, is also highly
sustainable. To Jørgensen and Thygesen, not only form and function are impor-
tant, but also environmental sustainability, and it is to this end they have intro-
duced bamboo as a new material to Danish furniture design.
At present, a new generation of Danish designers is developing a whole new form
of expression, aiming to respectfully renew a set of long and proud traditions. As
with fashion, there can be no doubt that Danish furniture design is entering a new
period of greatness. And this similarity, between furniture and fashion design, is
no coincidence – they build on the same values and a similar visual language.
hay
In years past, the fashion industry and its never-ending bouts of out-with-the-
old, in-with-the-new was frowned upon by furniture designers as superficial
and fleeting. The purity in the design approach of furniture designers, they said,
offered solutions to concrete problems and seemed the opposite of the fashion
world’s obsession with temporary fads. Today, this dichotomy seems false, as
there is much more that bridges these two worlds than separates them. Danish
fashion has already proven that it is more than about fleeting fads and trends. The
classic Nørgaard t-shirt is still an essential part of any teenager’s wardrobe – and
it was designed in 1967, less than a decade after Jacobsen’s classic chairs ’the
Swan’ and ’the Egg’.
Just like Danish furniture design, the lion’s share of Danish fashion is built on
the three principles mentioned before; simplicity, clean lines, and competent
craftsmanship. Danish fashion designers and companies like Mads Nørgaard,
Bruuns Bazaar, Sand, Matinique and Inwear all build on these qualities, and all
are relatively affordable. In this last sense, Danish fashion conforms to the demo-
cratic ideals envisioned by the original Danish furniture designers – that everyone
should be able to afford it.
Danish fashion is currently experiencing the kind of international breakthrough
we do wood
that furniture designers experienced in the 1950s – and the reason for this success
is not merely hype or temporary excitement, but a succesful recipe that combines
functionality with affordability. Danish furniture design has given the Danish
fashion industry these values. In the coming years, it will be important for the
fashion companies to further develop their business savvy, while at the same time
retaining these fundamental values.
bruuns bazaar jacob wagner for b&b italia
PG. 10
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09 Didder Rønlund
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Fashion Flashbacks
An Extravagant Designer with Fierce Hair
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Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen
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Ivan Grundahl has been one of the most festive features in Didder Rønlund’s amazing fashion life.

An Extravagant Designer with Fierce Hair

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Didder Rønlund has been in the business for more than 60 years. Working
as a journalist for Dagens Nyheder, BT, Billed Bladet and, lastly, Danish Fashion
Institute, she has always been writing about fashion. She has met Estée Lauder,
Coco Chanel and her successor Karl Lagerfeld, and basically all the important
players in the Danish fashion world. When asked to tell a fun story from her days
in the Danish fashion world, one person comes to mind.

‘A festive experience in Danish fashion? That’s a clever question to ask an old

lady like me. It’s obvious that there have been many in the more than 65 years
of non-stop activities I’ve experienced in the media world. But meeting Ivan
Grundahl, then still a student at The School of Decorative Art in Copenhagen
in the late sixties, was definitely a highlight. At the time, you see, he frequented
BT’s fashion desk, and with his fierce green hair and pierced ears, he was always
drawing attention to both his charming persona and original ideas. Ivan’s green
hair might, as the most natural thing in the world, be replaced with a flaming
orange hue the next time he showed up. But young Ivan’s extravagant, amusing
features in the fashion world remained steady, despite the frequently alternating
hair colors. And they still do,’ says Didder Rønlund.

Ivan Grundahl is well-known for his cool, avant-garde and international designs
with asymmetrical lines and uneven silhouettes. He is a regular at Copenhagen
Fashion Week every season, and this week his show will be held at the Gallery
Show Scene at Forum.

‘I have observed and reviewed Mr. Grundahl with delight ever since he opened
his first store. The first many years of my career, I would be seated at very
ordinary shows. But not when Ivan was showing his collections, where we got a
real show worth all the money, as he dispatched his beautiful, long-legged divas
in celebration and drama of deconstruction, inspired by Yamamoto, Commes
des Garcons and co., translated into Danish. Ivan’s parachute silk and cotton
gauze kept hitting home with both the lively and the intellectual consumers,’
says Didder Rønlund and ends, ‘drama is seriously aroused when army boots or
sneakers peek out from underneath the layered banquet garbs and hats as big as
mill wheels – outfits that would make even a Queen Margrethe disappear.’

The green hair might, as the most natural thing in the

world, be replaced with a flaming orange hue the next
time he showed up.

Editor’s
—
Eye The Local Firm
Yet another young and
Rodebjer
Designer Carin Rodebjer
Sandra Backlund
Designer Sandra
— hip brand for men and is a well-established Backlund belongs in the
— women that renews and name in Swedish fasion, avant-garde end of the
Sara Sievers is the refines Scandinavian but she has yet to design scale, and every
newly appointed design traditions to break through here in sculptural, knittet
Editor-in-Chief of come out of Sweden. Denmark. Here’s hoping design to come out of
Cover magazine. The Local Firm is raw that will change, her hands is a true
Here she picks and urban, inspired by because Rodebjer’s work of art. Backlund
ut her favorite art and architecture simple, elegant and is already big in the
Scandinavian fashion from the old Eastern most of all feminine international world of
brands. Bloc. I predict that silhouettes will appeal fashion, having worked
— we’ll see more from The to women interested in for Louis Vuitton
— Local Firm, because timeless design and and counting Italian
— of their rich frame fashion rather than Vogue’s Editor-in-
— of references. And passing fads. Chief, Franca Sozzani,
— their raw, communist- rodebjerg.se as one of her fans.
— inspired designs seem sandrabacklund.com
— exactly what we need in
— the current financial
doldrums - people just
aren’t going to want
‘pretty, pampered,
precious’ anymore.
thelocalfirm.com
PG. 12
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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Focus
Keeping Fashion Hot
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Words Chris Pedersen
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In the world of luxury goods, fur is the glamorous icing on the cake, and not only is Denmark one of the leading suppliers of fur,
Danish designers are also in the forefront when it comes to keeping the material relevant to modern urban customers. And with a new
label guaranteeing animal welfare, Danish fur has become even more desirable.

Keeping Fashion Hot

—
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toklum in collaboration with kopenhagen fur

christian westphal in collaboration with kopenhagen fur

In recent years, Danish designers like Baum und

Pferdgarten, Julie Fagerholt and Christian Westphal have
excelled in reinterpreting fur for their collections. Rikke
Baumgarten refers to it as the ’glamorous icing on the cake’
when it comes to creating a fashion statement, simply because it
oozes history, craftsmanship and luxury. And looking at contem-
porary Danish fur design, it’s clear that we’ve come a long way
since the vulgar, flaunt-as-much-fur-as-possible designs of the
1980s, when the material was all about showing off wealth - like
a nouveau riche oligarch dying to receive a jealous gaze.

Danish designers are now looking at fur in new and innovative

ways. Baum und Pferdgarten and Peter Ingversen for Noir
continue to experiment with sporty and rock’n’roll inspired
shapes for the urban customer, and for menswear designer
Christian Westphal it has been important to look at the shaping
of fur with a new set of eyes. ’I want to create a look that’s
masculine, sharp, young and easy to wear,’ says Westphal about
his fur designs launching this season.
One of the reasons why fur has become so popular in Danish
fashion is ’Den Gyldne Pelsnål’ (The Golden Fur Needle) - a
yearly competition for which Kopenhagen Fur invites young
progressive designers to experiment with – and hopefully
reinvent- the use of fur in fashion design. Baum und Pferdgarten
and Christian Westphal have both participated, and so has Ole
Yde, Hans Christian Madsen, Femmes Regionales and Julie
Fagerholt - developing the participating designers’ know-how
about the craftsmanship and industry behind fur production.
This year marked the 10-year anniversary of the competition,
and according to fashion editor Eva Helmbæk who selects the
participants, fur will continue to be a big part of Danish Fashion
both in the actual clothing design, but also when it comes to
accessories such as hats, bags and shoes.
But you can’t really discuss fur design without mentioning the
ethics of producing it. The fur industry is one of the most contro-
versial parts of the international world of high fashion. Legend
has it that the queen bee of the fashion industry, editor-in-chief
baum und pferdgarten in collaboration with saga fur
Kopenhagen Fur invites young progres-
sive designers to experiment with – and
hopefully reinvent – the use of fur in
fashion design.
of American Vogue Anna Wintour, was once served a dead
raccoon on her lunch plate by a member of PETA, and not a
season goes by without a ’surprise-attack’ by protestors storming
the catwalks of international designers with a love of fur. These
controversies make it more relevant than ever to figure out a way
to make the breeding of fur more animal-friendly and ethical,
a goal that designer Tom Ford spoke about at the International
Herald Tribune’s Supreme Luxury 2007 conference in Moscow.
‘New luxury’ is about ‘the ability to enjoy things that haven’t
had a destructive impact on the planet or on other people’ Ford
said, and to that end, the Origin Assured label was launched.
The Origin Assured label guarantees that the fur or fur-product a
consumer purchases comes from a country where regulations or
standards governing fur production are in force. Origin Assured
joined with an experienced international monitoring agency
to establish an independent verification program and enforce
that the mark is used correctly. Among the fur auction houses
participating in the program are the two biggest Danish auction
houses Kopenhagen Fur and Saga Fur. Both are currently among
the only four organizations permitted to distribute the labels and
hangtags with the OA mark, though more will join in the future
as the program develops.
PROUD SPONSOR OF
In other words, buying Danish fur is not only a testimony of
taste, but also a way to make sure that the animals used in the
production have lived the best life possible.
originassured.com
KOPENHAGENFUR.COM
PG. 14
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
MAG*S MAGASIN
Saturday 02.07.09 NN07 RUSKINDSJAKKE 1.500,-
—
Scandinavian Talent TOPSHOP
Across Borders TANKTOP 79,-
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Words Kathrine Houe FILIPPA K
— SILKENEDERDEL 1.100,-
—
Fashion is far from recession-proof, but up-and-coming menswear brand NN07 seems to have found the fast
track to success in a difficult industry where only the best newcomers are taken seriously. The key words are

Across Borders
quality, originality and modern classics.
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NN07 is short for No Nationality 2007, which is a one of the statements

Must
defining the brand.

The atmosphere that greets you when entering the offices
of menswear label NN07 is delightfully free of fashion snobbery.
Instead it’s bit like popping by a friend’s office for a quick chat
and a cup of coffee.
Victor Lindh, director of marketing, sales and design and one of
the founders of NN07, sits with CEO Tommy Holte in an office
space filled with stack upon stack of clothes from their latest
collection, looking at some drawings of the new NN07 flagship
store.
It wasn’t more than two years ago that Victor Lindh and Ulrik
Pedersen, who is responsible for production and design, decided
to leave their safe jobs at well-established Bruuns Bazaar to take
the risk of starting their own company - a decision that proved to
be right.
‘Everything has happened at an extremely fast pace since we
started the company back in June 2007. As soon as we decided
to start NN07, we made a brand book in which we explained
what we stood for, and also, maybe even more importantly, what
we did not stand for,’ explains Victor and continues:
‘It was very important right from the beginning to define what
- and who - we did not want to be. A lot of new brands start out
by claiming they want to be the new Acne or the new Levis. For
us it was the opposite. We wanted to be original. That was and
still is the most important thing for us. Everything we do, we do
because we believe in it 100 percent.’
Have
NN07 is short for No Nationality 2007, which is one of the
statements defining the brand. Victor is Swedish, the rest of
the team is Danish but none of them wants to be placed into a
specific national box. The team has from the very beginning
seen the whole of Scandinavia as their home market, and had
agents in all three Scandinavian countries – Denmark, Sweden,
Norway - from the first collection, SS08. At that time the final Forårets korte jakker er alt,
goal was to find 140 shops to stock NN07 in Scandinavia; today
the number has already reached 160. This month, NN07 will be
du drømmer om: taljerede
opening their own flagship stores at department store Magasin eller a-formede, med ¾- eller
in Copenhagen and in Oslo, Norway. Gradually, NN07 is also lange ærmer og i de blødeste,
opening up for stores outside Scandinavia. eksklusive materialer som
So what’s the secret behind the success? When you compare skind, ruskind og jacquard
NN07’s collections you will never see major changes. NN07’s med og uden print. Hvilken
design is based on the modern classics, and T-shirts, shirts, jakke er din favorit?
chinos, jackets and knitted sweaters are all stated with a simple
but exclusive look where quality always has the main priority.
Some styles will be part of the collection season after season
simply because the NN07 team loves them.
‘We don’t try to make our designs preppy. Instead we always
seek a classic and intellectual feeling. We want our design to be
so timeless that a man can keep his clothes from NN07 for at
least the next ten years,’ Victor ends.
nn07.com

To stay original, the guys behind NN07 always try to add a

special feature to everything – including all catalogs. For the
AW08 collection, they had an artist create 600 handmade paint-
ings, which were later cut into pieces to serve as catalog covers,
each one unique. And for SS09 the cover of every catalog will
feature a unique handprint collected from people from all over
the world - which actually leads us to the name of the label.
Forbehold for trykfejl.

060209_DanskDaily_MagsJakke_265x370.indd 1 29-01-2009 10:15:52

PG. 16
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
— Signe Fabricius
Profile
The Puppet Master
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Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen
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WWW.SAND-EUROPE.COM
With more than 200 shows under her belt, choreographer Signe Fabricius is the woman behind a lot of the
shows that makes you sigh with satisfaction

The Puppet Master

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I’m the person with the headset saying ‘go’ backstage.

Designers Remix, Rützou, Baum und Pferdgarten, Sand,

Cph Vision and CIFF. Choreographer Signe Fabricius has been
behind all these runway shows and many, many more. With
more than 200 shows under her belt, she’s been one of the main
coordinators and choreographers of Copenhagen Fashion Week
since debuting with Munthe plus Simonsen’s first show at Forum
in 1998.

‘My role in a fashion show is to make everything run smoothly

during rehearsals and when the show is taking off. I create and
develop a show’s concept, and some years I stand for the chore-
ography, which I base on the location’s scenography, lighting,
and the show’s music. I also teach the models the choreography,
working closely with the DJ and lighting guys. I’m also the
person with the headset saying ‘go’ backstage. My job can
involve basically everything except make-up, hair and styling,
Signe Fabricius explains.

During fashion week, Signe Fabricius is typically in charge of

the choreography for two or three shows a day. This week she is
choreographing the CIFF and Designers Remix shows, among
others.

‘It’s a lot of work and really intense. And when I start preparing
a show, my math skills suddenly come in handy. I figure out how
long the catwalk is, how many models are in the show, and how
many minutes the show is supposed to be. The music is also very
important to set the right mood at the event. A perfect show is a
mix of math and creativity,’ says Signe Fabricius, who ultimately
is always focused on the visibility of the clothes.

‘Good choreography is when the audience can see the clothes

from both the front and back. Each model needs to be on the
runway for at least 30 seconds for the audience to get a proper
impression of the clothes. Good choreography should also be
seamless – the audience shouldn’t be distracted by it, or really
think of it as ‘choreography’, but rather focus on the works of
the designer,’ explains Signe Fabricius, who usually has about an
hour to prepare the models before a show starts.

But how does she manage to make so many shows appear so

different?
‘I’m always inspired by the designers and the producers behind
the shows - this season, Style Counsel and Femmes Regionales.
Mostly they have a clear idea of what they want, and then we
collaborate on making the best show possible according to that
vision. When I see the clothes, the location, and the models, my
mind starts to play with ideas of what would make a great show.
Last season, I choreographed the Designers Remix show, which
initially was going to be held in a small cage at Copenhagen
Zoo. But when we got to the location and saw the elephant
house, another, larger venue at the zoo, we decided to change
location because it looked so stunning,’ says Signe Fabricius.

When Signe Fabricius is not doing fashion shows, she works

with theater, movies and TV. These media also provide inspira-
tion for the fashion shows.

‘I often draw upon experiences from the theater, and its

scenography, lighting and dramatic atmosphere. In the theater
you always want to create a certain mood, which is also essential
at a fashion show. The great thing about the fashion world is that
you have to work really fast, whereas in the world of theater,
you get to use months working on the same play. Both work well
for me. I still get a kick whenever a show starts, and I love the PINK LABEL
atmosphere backstage. The day I don’t feel that way anymore,
I’ll stop doing the shows,’ concludes Signe Fabricius.
PG. 18
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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Backstage Beauty
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PG. 22 PG. 23
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09 Saturday 02.07.09
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Backstage Show
— Moonspoon Saloon
Words Chris Pedersen —
Photo Emil T. Schmidt & Rasmus Brøndsted, Made in School Words Kathrine Houe
— Photo Sacha Maric
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Artsy fashion march

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I’m Spinning Around

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The Cyclus
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The Fantabolous Bicycle Music Factory

I have two pet hates: Mimes with white gloves, and fashion
shows that try to convey an ‘artistic’ sensibility, whether it be
with dancing models, singing models or ’funny’ venues. Only a
The Human Laundry
very few designers are able to add actual value to their design by
staging their collection theatrically, and most attempts seem to
land flat on their asses, revealing the designer’s pretentiousness
rather than design merit.
While a lot of the Danish fashion houses show simple and wearable clothes, there
But one Danish designer stands out as benefiting from a certain was nothing even remotely minimalist about the artsy, playful and, for some
dose of theatrics - and that is Henrik Vibskov. His shows have people, maybe too funny AW09 collection of Moonspoon Saloon. Angry drum
left me breathless on several occasions, not just because of the beats from female drummer Carla Azar set the show called March in motion,
rich fantasy his design reveals, but also because of the way starting out with a fluffy knitted dress combined with black make up covering the
he uses the catwalk creatively to explain the ideas behind his lower half the model’s face, in the semblance of a shiny mouth-gag. Continuing
collection. A few seasons ago, his installation ‘The Fantabulous with a cocoon-shaped black jacket with plastic fringes, guys in oversize printed
Bicycle Music Factory’, showcased his aesthetic’s rich accumu- t-shirts, a few multi-colored fur jackets, clown-styled stripy jumpsuits, patterned
lation of design history, both in fashion and folkloric clothing. dresses, and huge tube-shaped paper hats, the collection showcased a hodgepodge
Another installation of his, ’the Cyclus’ showed how humans are of styles in a wide color palette.
deeply dependent on each other no matter what happens.
Moonspoon Saloon is definitely not a brand that considers the financial crisis a
Last night, Vibskov showed ’The Human Laundry collection’ reason to go commercial. But who wouldn’t expect a little weirdness from a label
after our deadline, but the designer kindly let us have sneak designed and owned by a stylist, an artist, a photographer and a designer – all
peak on the show’s monochromatic tubular installations. It was with their own unique styles and approaches.
designed to create the optical illusion of ‘Spinning the Models’,
and we are quite sure that the spectators had a nice, warm spin The limited edition label, which, somewhat theatrically, plans to close with a
around the creative mind of Henrik Vibskov. bang upon the release of its 99th style, does seem more like an art project than a
clothing line. Yet among the artsy styles a few wearable pieces stood out as some-
See danskdaily.dk tomorrow for the show review thing that could easily appeal to a crowd that dares to try out new stuff, including
a short dark red jumpsuit with short legs, a beautiful black and white outfit, and a
black a-line jacket with wooden beads at the neckline. Refreshingly different and
The Tent City quite entertaining.
PG. 24
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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Show
Ivan Grundahl
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Words Kathrine Houe
Photo Sacha Maric

Cool Vagabonds
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If there is one Danish designer who has enough personal style

and years of experience to carry the title iconic Danish designer,
it would have to be Ivan Grundahl. And with the usual seating
chaos in the tent outside Gallery, the scene was set for another
one of Ivan’s popular shows.

Starting out with black pants and big hats, it was immediately
apparent that Ivan is still the same, and as he rolled out the new
collection’s styles, the size of dresses and hats kept widening.
Oversized yet short black jackets, loose but still well-fitted
pants, long dresses with tight waists and wide skirts all in colors
counting black, white, grey, reds and light green.

The tie-dyed fabrics going from black to beige and dark green to
grey were truly stunning, as were the extreme mixes of materials
counting lace, plastic, sequins, leather and cotton all used in one
skirt and one full dress. With the multiple layers, see-through Showroom Kronprinsessegade 4, 1306 Copenhagen K / Press +45 25514699
effects, coarse textiles and beautiful draping, the models resem- Sales Femme: +4525513661, Homme: +45 41641398 / +45 25514971
bled a cool and luxurious version of the traditional vagabond,
underlined by huge, messy hair. REPRESENTED AT GALLERY, COPENHAGEN / STAND NO. 232
Some complain that Grundahl keeps repeating himself, but at
least he is repeating his own designs, and with his faithful crowd
of followers, why should he fix something that’s not broken?
PG. 26 PG. 27
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09 Saturday 02.07.09
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Show Show
Stine Goya Soulland
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Words Kathrine Houe Words Helle Rohde and Mathias Vestergaard

Modern Horror Grandpa

Photo Sacha Maric Photo Sacha Maric

Sparkling Rock
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Cabaret
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Where a touch of sexy chic seemed to be the missing link to

complete Stine Goya’s past collections, it was a whole other
story when she presented her fifth and latest collection The Black
Spectacle at an over-packed Gallery Show Scene late Thursday
night. With a refreshing ability to renew herself without losing
her personal style, Goya captivated the spectators with a playful
and cabaret-inspired show, featuring girls on swings, live songs
by Henrik Hall, and a great hair and make up look that vamped
up the girls to the max.
The scene was set for a bash on Thursday night when Soulland
After a spring collection done almost entirely in pastels and presented its new show “Savage Mountain’. Located in the raw
grays and with a good amount of prints, the new palette counted and industrial Carlsberg Brewery buildings, and with a mountain
mostly black with sparks of shiny bronze, wine red, grey and placed in the center of the catwalk, expectations almost peaked
dark purple, the few prints all rather subtle. Instead, artificial before the show.
stones gave a lot of the items an appealing sparkle. Shapes were
still sculptural and accentuated shoulders and waists, with less The first outfit had a cozy look in nude colors, with chinos
oversize styles and a tighter silhouette resulting in a more grown- teamed up with a knitted cardigan. This classic grandpa look
up and refined expression than previous collections. was contrasted by the models’ scull painted faces, which left
an ambivalent impression of coziness and horror. Basic and
Highlights counted several pairs of tights decorated with the wearable items like knitwear, shirts and waistcoats in both bright
sparkling stones, cropped tuxedo-inspired blazers, washed silk and pale colors dominated the look. More experimental pieces
dresses with round sculptured shoulders and cape effects, loose like knitted pants and a jumpsuit in green gave this increasingly
leather pants and several versions of the little black dress that popular streetwear label some extra edge and grit.
would do well at most cocktail parties. All in all it the collection
was dominated by a dramatic rocking cabaret edge that was new The overall impression didn’t move mountains, but Soulland
for Stine Goya but seemed to fit her well. still presented a good and varied show with a solid and wearable
interpretation of the grandpa look.
PG. 28
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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Show
jean//phillip
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Words Mathias Vestergaard
Photo Sacha Maric
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Will the Boys Dare?

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www.stylecounsel.com

Branding and image consulting

idea and concept development
campaigns and Brochures
Much like entering the Rick Owens store in TriBeCa, N.Y., the guests at jean//phillip’s exclusive
show were greeted with the deep rhythms of warm and glitchy minimal techno, setting the mood for Fashion shows and events
a no-nonsense show. While continuing his established aesthetics and sticking to some of his signature print solutions and
looks, designer Jean Phillip delivered an incredibly sharp and balanced collection. Combining shiny
patent leather shoes and heavier boots with bondage belts and transparent tops, the overall look was client puBlishing
both dark and dandy.

Boys will have to show some courage to wear jean//phillip’s rather bold pieces on the street. The
masculine corsets – a repeated item in the show -- could easily be layered with a sharp white shirt
under a tight fitting jacket, however, as a unique vest alternative.

The collection’s old-school forward-pleated sweatpants – repeated from last season – seemed more
appropriate now, and while a gorgeous black-and-white checkered set stood out as a more classic
outfit, it was still in line with the sober mood of the show.

With an extremely sharp vision, a showroom examination will reveal if the production quality has
matured and lives up to the designer’s obviously high goals. However, there is no doubt that this is a
strong collection, and judging from its overall mood, little extra pockets, and sharply cut shoulders, it
will definitely appeal to a dedicated crowd.
PG. 30 PG. 31
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09 Saturday 02.07.09
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Show Show
bARBARA I gONGINI By Malene Birger
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Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen Words Kathrine Houe
Photo Sacha Maric Photo Sacha Maric

An Edgy Kind of Coco

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Dripping Originality
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With a simpler sophistication, though still true to her DNA, Danish designer Malene Birger edged
her style up a notch when she presented her AW09 collection on the biggest and most impressive
No one can put bARBARA I gONGINI’s originality in doubt. catwalk seen this week. As the press release said, inspiration was taken from Coco Chanel, and
To get a model wearing a huge black and white tulle dress to even though a few pieces were very close to Coco, most of them had a personal Malene Birger
sink into a bathtub filled with water onstage is an event no other twist, adding power and edge to the lady-like look.
designer has orchestrated this fashion week – or ever, perhaps.
Just like no other designer has made a collection that mixes With sharp, pointy-shouldered jackets and dresses, sleeveless fur vests, asymmetrical dresses in
artistry and functionality to such great effect. both tight and loose versions, cool smoking pants with a low crotch and a great selection of knee-
length skirts, detailed shirts and short jackets, the show assembled ladies ready to rock.
The artistry showed in the imaginative tulle dresses, jackets too
deconstructed and difficult to wear for everyday usage, and an Black was joined by only a few entrances in camel, dusty blue, powder, gray and bronze, and
oversized, robe-like sweater-jacket. Functional were gONGINI’s instead of a color hodgepodge, materials such as leather, fur, satin, lace, sequins and velours were
range of jumpsuits with and without sleeves, simple, heavy mixed and used to emphasize shapes and details.
knitwear, and delicate shirts with layered shoulders. Black
dominated, with additions of gray, fluorescent yellow, pink, and The Salon collection was restricted to black only, and, right from the beginning, a tight full-length
shiny gold on cool flat black patent leather shoes. Hats off to skirt in PVC made it clear that this line also had an edgy twist to it. Only one or two of the dresses
bARBARA I gONGINI for putting her artistic talent into her were so grandiose that they would make a woman feel overdressed at a cocktail party, while the
clothes. It made for some really unique pieces, which, combined rest were sexy and detailed interpretations of the oh-so-famous little black dress - mixed with a
with a number of garments that would fit into a more conven- fantastic ’80s inspired power fur coat, a few well fitted suits and a pair of sequin pants so wide that
tional wardrobe, made this collection shine. it could make even the most flamboyant ’70s disco dancer jealous. The only shame was the atten-
tion stolen by some of the accessories, distracting from the great details of the clothes.
PG. 32
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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Show
Cheap Monday
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Words Helle Rohde and Mathias Vestergaard
Photo Sacha Maric
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Recession wit
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Cheap Monday brought the recession out in the open

by opening their show yesterday with models wearing
bags, hats, ties and even guitars made out of cardboard.
A refreshing and humorous take on the much-debated
financial crisis.

The recession feel was underlined with trashed and torn

jeans that looked as if they had just been repaired with
pieces of gaffer tape. The color chart was in dark, rusty
hues and oily blues – a suitable and safe choice for the
A/W season. Boyfriend fitted blazers and oversized cape
coats teamed up with tight, cropped jeans was for the
girls. The boys’ look was loose and antifit with big coats,
knitwear and chinos. Although one could have hoped for
a little more renewal, Cheap Monday still faced the facts
of the crisis and presented a recession concept with jest
and humor.

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Show
Noblesse
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Words Stinne Jensen
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Lipstick Lesbians
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— With Copenhagen gay icons Fagget Fairies
— in charge of the music and models with sleek
— hairstyles fiercely strutting down the runway,
— Birgitte Herskind’s first show with new label
— Noblesse was speckled with delicious lesbian
— references.
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— New, rocked-up takes on classics like formal
— skirts with zippers and straps, and men’s
— jackets, were mixed with sophisticated silk
— dresses and shirts in coral and peach, giving the
otherwise black, white and gray palette some
color.

Herskind’s attempt to rethink these classics

truly succeeded in her fittet, sleeveless jackets
and cool zipper-dresses. And by using a lot of
sequins – both as embellishment on shoulders
and fullblown as the material in dresses and
skirts - the somewhat plain clothes got a sparkly
kick of glam.

Cursed with some initial hiccups after which

the show had to start over, the collection offered
a little bit of everything for the girl looking
for clothes to express her personality, whether
A u t u m n W i n t e r 2 0 0 9 C o l l e C t i o n · P r e v i e W i n g At G a l l e r y I n t e r n at I o n a l Fa s h I o n Fa I r , s ta n d 4 5 · P r e s s C o n tA C t P r e s s @ d Ay. d k
sassy, sexy or classy.
ConCePt store · Pilestræde 16 1112 CoPenhAgen

w w w. d ay. d k
PG. 34 PG. 35
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09 Saturday 02.07.09
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Show
AnnHagen
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Words Mathias Vestergaard
Photo Sacha Maric

A Luxury Take on AnnHagen

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Last night we witnessed the debut collection of Jørgen Simonsen as

AnnHagen’s new designer, after the departure of Diana Opsund Bay. It
is always interesting to see what happens when a brand with a distinct
design profile gets a new designer. While AnnHagen has been all about
bondage, dark rock, goth and deconstruction, mr. Simonsen is associ-
ated with luxury and couture.

A slightly deconstructed blue cocktail dress and the bondage belts

and straps on the back of some nicely tailored men’s coats and leather
jackets, provided a link to Annhagen as we know it. Moving on from
this heritage, Simonsen had added padding on hips and shoulders,
sculpting the collection’s simple black dresses and beautiful double-
breasted female office suits. Maintaining the padded effect and
restructuring, Simonsen ventured into everything from glam-rock to
kimonos, with large bows on the back.

Everything was beautifully cut, tailored and fitted, and although some
pieces seemed a bit off, the overall impression was a new statement of
beauty and elegance, cemented by a short, sexy tube dress with asym-
metrical patches of fur, and a range of long evening dresses.

This might not please fans of the original, moodier AnnHagen style,
but for someone dressing celebrities for the red carpet, this collection
had everything. If only Danish celebrities would dare to go there.
PG. 36
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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Show
Wood Wood
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Words Stinne Jensen
Photo Sacha Maric

Julie Sandlau
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He used to be a skater boy

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Collection Presentation
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CPH Fashion Week 5th - 8th Feb. 2009

Call and book a collection presentation in our showroom

situated in the heart of Copenhagen.

Clients - Sealand / Lena Bagger +45 2780 3455 • Clients - Jutland / Haniel Møller +45 6127 3333
Clients - Sweden / Kate Paulsen +45 3172 3232 • Clients - Rest of world / Gitte K. Dybkjaer +45 2120 3452

Wood Wood is known for alternative show venues, often with chaotic
seating plans, and Friday was no different. A lot of guests in a very
small space left little legroom for the models (and pushed the schedule),
but also made the show more intimate.

The girls’ collection sported boyfriend wardrobe styles with large, blue
shirts, checkered grunge shirts and chinos, and a more feminine range of
nineties chic styles with high-waisted leather skirts and shoulder-heavy
knit sweaters. The well-fitted girls’ denim referenced nineties glam with
slim legs, high waistlines and nicely placed back pockets. Among the
more sexy styles were a pair of worker pantsuits and knit dresses, with
zippers down the back adding a sassy detail. The girls’ clothes should
appeal to girls who don’t need a lot of details to feel and look sexy, but
for those who crave a little embellishment they might be too basic.

Boys’ denim, consisting of old-school blue jeans and jackets with worn-
out patches and big pockets, was inspired by Japanese workwear, and
was even produced there. Shirts, sweaters and t-shirts were all inspired Groennegade 10, 1st floor • DK - 1107 Copenhagen K.
by a sporty street style with a sophisticated edge, though without Shop online : www.juliesandlau.com
loosing the cozy feel Wood Wood is know for.

It seems the skater boy has pulled up his pants and ironed his shirt.
Wood Wood is aiming for an older audience.

DanskDaily_265x370_CPHFW_Feb20091 1 02-02-2009 16:15:16

PG. 38
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper visit www.danskdaily.dk for back issues
Saturday 02.07.09
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Show
Vila
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Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen
Photo Sacha Maric
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Cut the Candy Floss

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When the light turned on after the show, four bartenders

This week proved that no financial crisis can prevent us from
jumped out from behind the runway to start the party. Vila has
entered fashion week, and they did well.
celebrating fashion, in all its flamboyant, functional, artsy
The majority of Vila’s styling was rather minimalist, mixing
femininity and edginess in girly dresses matched with skinny
and theatrical variations. The shows, parties, performances
jeans and leather and cotton leggings.
Standing out were the knits, longer in the front than the back,
and, most importantly, clothes of this fashion week proved that
and oversized pieces with braided details on the sleeves,
oozing a casual and comfy feeling. Vila also showed their
Copenhagen can still deliver. See you in August for a hot summer
sweeter side with a chiffon layer cake dress, a tube-top dress
with a balloon skirt, and a lace number all in pinkish shades,
sartorial extravaganza.
screaming candy floss – though perhaps too much. The laces
worked much better in black, used on a short fitted jacket
mixed with jeans and a t-shirt. Keeping in mind how big a
collection Vila has to choose from, they managed to select a
range of clothes that was pulled together, but still showed the
broad range of styles coming from an all-round company.

photo by oliver katibi stalmans

PG. 40 PG. 41
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09 Saturday 02.07.09
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Very Important Princesses —
— Very Important Princesses
Photo Emil T. Schmidt and Rasmus Brøndsted / Made in School —
— Photo Emil T. Schmidt and Rasmus Brøndsted / Made in School
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Thursday evening, Mads Nørgaard gathered a crowd —
for his event at DR’s new concert hall, continuing Copenhagen-based womenswear label Spon Diogo hosted a swanky
his close collaboration with the Copenhagen music event in the stylish black surroundings of Paris-Texas on
scene with a special performance Thursday afternoon.
by When Saints Go Machine. —
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Student Charlie Thomsen’s white
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Henrik Ralph Nielsen, partner Nanna Rosenfeldt-Olsen studies fashion in
in Seven Youngsters, has Kolding, and was out with Jong Pang singer Tine
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When Saints Go Machine were in the spotlight.
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was also at the Nørgaard event.
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Fashion dude Tom Steifel joined Ouafa Mouna, freelance
— PR., for a drink
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Spon Diogo owners Mia Lisa Spon and Rui Andersen Rodrigues Diogo
— looked happy and stylish at their own event
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Copenhagen nightlife icon Rune of Wonderland
— looked fabulous with his happy homo grandpa
— look. Cheers!
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Truls Blaasmo, does web graphics for
Samsøe&Samsøe and adores cartoonish bowties
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stepped on a beer bottle provided the event with a splash of
color

Jens Brønum Johansen, graphic designer,

looked ferocious.
Public display of affection: Mads and wife.

Kristensen du Nord designer Grith Gerner removed

her gloves next to Henrik Waldorff Thoudal,
freelance stylist and designer.

Trendcaster Rasmus Philip Jensen looked buff and

tough
Jan Bringø Bachmann, graphic designer from SHFT,
enjoys a winter hug with Ditte Bringø Bachmann
from Artrebels/Fashion.
 PG. 43
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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Look of the Day
AnnHagen
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Words Stinne Jensen
Photo Oliver Katibi Stalmans
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—At first glance, the AnnHagen models recalled fifties housewives with perfect hair and impeccable make up, but upon closer
examination, the classic chignons were torn and teased, and the black eyeliner more rock’n roll than regular.

The simple yet strong make up, using only black, red and white with sophisticated up-does, gave the girls a sexy power-look
worth copying.

A new twist was the contradiction of heavy powdered brows paired with generous amounts of white shine on cheekbones and
forehead - but it worked!

‘The idea was to create a variation on the fifties black eyeliner, with some models wearing a lot more make up that others.
It’s almost like three or four looks in one show – from Hollywood diva to punk chic,’ says Uffe Buchard, creative director of
the show.

Laetitia Casta, Douzen Kroes, Noemie Lenoir www.lorealparis.dk

8235_265x370 Sponsor_CFW.indd 1 06/01/09 15:43:18

 PG. 45
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
— We’re really good at telling each other how amazing we are and
Removing the Velvet Glove
We are the Champions presenting this hunky-dory facade
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Words Susanne Madsen
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Self-applause is rife in Danish fashion. But is it actually doing the industry a huge disservice?
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We are the Champions?
They say fashion is full of bitchiness, backstabbing and
all-round rudeness. And you know; they’re generally absolutely
right. But it’s also rampant with sycophants – and an Alaïa-
wearing cast to rival that of The Emperor’s New Clothes: people
so terrified of falling out of grace with the inner sanctum they’ll
never admit a collection was anything but ‘amazing, gorge,
loved it!’ They convince each other to believe the hype, terrified
a bad word will jeopardize future business – or their own
celebrity.
Danish fashion isn’t exempt from this sort of self-applause,
either. The designer Stine Goya has noted how she’d prefer
honesty over flattery (‘It’s the only way the label Stine Goya can
grow’), but she’s one of the few to say so. As a writer, you’re
really not supposed to say that the core of the Danish premium
middle-market designers – the designers that form the very basis
of CFW – produce an abundance of quality, reasonably on-trend
clothes that also happen to be quite similar if you remove the
smoke and show mirrors. You’re not supposed to talk about that,
silly. Otherwise Copenhagen will never become the fifth fashion
capital. Like, duh.
We’re really good at telling each other
how amazing we are and presenting this
hunky-dory facade, but we have to learn
to call a spade a spade.
‘We’re really good at telling each other how amazing we are and
presenting this hunky-dory facade, but we have to learn to call
a spade a spade and be honest about what we’re good at, accept
criticism and build on our strengths unless we want to stagnate,’
a source in the industry says, adding: ‘We’ll never be the fifth
fashion capital, but we can hopefully become a major fashion
week for the premium middle-market.’ Granted, there’s nothing
wrong with a dose of healthy nationalistic team spirit. But
fashion is like horse riding: you school your dressage champion
with a balance of carrots and sticks. (Sticks being figuratively
speaking, before this piece ends up pissing off the Danish
fashion industry and the world’s animal welfare groups.)
Now, carrots are all very well, but eventually your sweet
intentions will leave you with an unruly tubby-tubster, forever
destined to compete at elementary dressage level. Assuming
Danish fashion doesn’t want to continue competing at elemen-
APPLIED PROJECTS tary level, what can be done about this sugar-coated pretence
A VISUAL AGENCY – and what’s to blame for it? According to most of the people
interviewed here, it has to do with the way the industry is
configured. (This, coincidentally, is also the reason the majority
Applied.dk of them don’t wish to be named.) A source says: ‘The Danish
fashion industry is steeped in conflicts of interests, where you
have ‘opposing’ organisations working together. Danish fashion
can’t progress as long as we’re in someone’s pocket.’
Another factor is the very democratic, inclusive show schedule.
A source says: ‘In Denmark you’re brought up to think every-
one’s equal. I’m sorry, but who came up with that idea? We’re
spoilt and coddled – and we think the world owes us everything.
If McQueen has a show, we should have a show. There’s no
filter. I mean, ECCO shoes show during a fashion week that’s
trying to gain international respect.’ It’s of course all very easy
for a fashion writer to ride in from London on her high Hermès-
saddled horse and start criticising Danish fashion because it’s
not exactly like the Paris show schedule she’s become accus-
tomed to. But even when you assess Danish fashion on its own
parameters it’s evident it needs a little editing. In the words of a
source: ‘Unless we get critical, we’ll end up being the only ones
who think we’re cool.’ On a similar note, an international source
says: ‘Denmark is the only place where fashion week launches
with someone going on the catwalk before the first show to give
a political pep-talk speech. It’s quite un-fashion, and it’s not
what you’d expect.’
Furthermore, parts of the industry seem to be under the
impression that a fashion writer’s job description reads ‘Type
up awestruck, rose-tinted hyperbole about average trunk show
collections. Lather, rinse, repeat.’ But, as Style.com fashion
critic Sarah Mower commented in the Winter 2008 issue of
DANSK Magazine: ‘[...] our responsibility is to the reader, not
to keeping anyone in business. We are not just a glorified PR
service for designers – they can love or hate what we write, but
in the end, I think they respect us for the fact that we don’t just
say everything’s pretty and lovely and regurgitate their press
releases.’
we need to keep a close eye on our young
talent – and hopefully introduce them
into a tradition of honest, informed
feedback.
Danish designer Camilla Stærk, who’s based in New York and
now shows her label Stærk during New York fashion week
after previously showing in London, sees reviews as tools for
developing her work: ‘Critique is an expected ingredient in the
seasonal reviews in both these cities. Of course, one is always
affected by a critical review or comment of the collection, after
all the hard work and emotion you’ve just put into it, but I feel
that criticism is often something that can be turned into a posi-
tive thing,’ she says, adding: ‘The anticipation alone – knowing
that reviewers will look at your work with fresh, comparative
Unless we get critical, we’ll end up
being the only ones who think we’re cool.
and critical eyes, regardless of how they received your last
collection – is an essential ingredient in how you push yourself
in your work.’
With a degree from Ravensbourne, one of London’s top fashion
colleges, Stærk hasn’t been trained within the babied Danish
fashion traditions – something her words give evidence to.
Rather, London’s fashion schools force you to develop a thick
There is a tendency in Denmark to think
we have amazing taste simply because we
come from a strong design tradition.
skin from day one, teaching you that “you are only as good
as your last collection’. Camilla Bigler, London Director of
branding and advertising agency Style Counsel that publishes
DANSK Daily, comments in this vein: ‘There is a tendency in
Denmark to think we have amazing taste simply because we
come from a strong design tradition.’
So have we been resting on our laurels? According to Bigler,
perhaps as far as our design schools are concerned: ‘The
pinnacle of Danish fashion talent aren’t even trained at our
colleges. And that’s an issue we should probably take a long,
hard look at. We’ve got an amazing design heritage and tradi-
tion, but we have to invest more in our design schools if we
want a Central Saint Martins or a Ravensbourne.’
This fashion writer is excited to see what this week has to offer
in relation to the new, young designers that have popped up on
the show schedule. Not saying that new and quirky is neces-
sarily better than established, but we need to keep a close eye on
our young talent – and hopefully introduce them into a tradition
of honest, informed feedback. And let them know it’s okay to be
proud of what you do, but if you want to stand a chance in the
harsh, cruel world of international fashion, you need to realise
negative criticism is a positive thing.
Susanne Madsen is the Fashion Features Editor of DANSK
Magazine
 PG. 47
Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper
Saturday 02.07.09
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Calender
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Show Calendar 23.00 Kødboderne 18

Saturday, February 7 Lækker Party Copenhagen V
Music by Kjeld, Jean, Djuna & Peter
15.00 Bottega Charlottenlund, Skovridderkroen, 23.00 – 05.00
Designers Nest Show Strandvejen 235, Charlottenlund Chick with Guns by May Andersen
Øksnehallen, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V Announce your arrival at HYPERLINK Rosenborggade 15
By invitation only “mailto:leakker@neoncph.com” leakker@ Copenhagen K
neoncph.com By invitation only
16.00 Nima K - HYPERLINK “mailto:info@nimak.
Malene Marron 24.00 dk” info@nimak.dk
LiteraturHaus, Møllegade 7, Copenhagen N Chick with Guns by May Anderson
By invitation only Supermodel May Anderson hosts the party 23.00 – 05.00
for her own jeans label CPH Vision Party
17.00 Rosenborggade 15, Copenhagen K The Royal Danish Playhouse
Bertoni By invitation only Kvæsthusbroen
Øksnehallen, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V Sankt Annæ Plads 36
By invitation only Copenhagen K
Fashion Weekend By invitation only
18.00 Saturday 7 February Joe Bruce – jb@creative-public.com
Karen Bagge
Jolene, Flæsketorvet 81-85, Copenhagen V 13.00 – 14.00 24.00 – 05.00
By invitation only Lykke May Book Signing NASA Fashion Weekend! By NASA & World
The supermodel signs her new book “My Finest Clubs
19.00 Nine Lives” Boltens Gaard
Copenhagen Unfair Illum Books Gothersgade 8F
Kødboderne 18, Copenhagen V Østergade 52 Copenhagen K
By invitation only Copenhagen K
For more events, please go to www.
20.00 14.00, 15.00 & 16.00 copenhagenfashionweekend.com!
Hugo Boss A Pair Fashion Show
TBC Visit the shoe store for an exclusive
By invitation only fashion show, presenting the new
collection
Ny Østergade 3
Event Calendar Copenhagen K
Saturday, February 7
20.00 – 22.00
23.00 Copenhagen Unfair Show Off
CPH Vision Party AW09 Kødboderne 18
The Royal Danish Playhouse, Sankt Annæ Copenhagen V
Plads 36, Copenhagen K
By invitation only 22.00 – 05.00
Copenhagen Unfair Dance Off

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Fashion Playlist Jean recommends the following music for 2009
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Words Rozanna Fritz Q Lazzarus: Goodbye horses.
— The ultimate melancholy horror vibe. An exclusive journey

Jean von
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through a lesbian universe with the vibes from Silence of the
lambs.

Baden
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MURCOF: The Versailles Sessions (album)
A supreme sound journey. Very deep, very melancholic.

— The Fagget Fairies: Feed The Horse (track)

— Super cool pop-track by a super duo. Works well at more
— commercial shows.
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— Grace Jones: Corporate Cannibal (track)
— Do I really need to explain that Grace Jones is the coolest person
— in the world and that this track is a manifestation of a time when
— corporations are the criminals?
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— BLACK DEVIL DISCO CLUB: everything they’ve released,
— The neo neo disco revolution is here, funky, organic and sexy.
— Works well with designers that get the point!
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— Mike Sheridan – I syv sind (Album)
Jean von Baden is one of Copenhagen’s most popular and versatile DJ’s. He has played at This Copenhagen wunderkind is already a legend and his
everything from underground parties to high-society festivities for the Royal family. soundscapes are a must for setting a special ambience.
Through the last 15 years, Jean has played at the Olympics in Beijing, the Box, Gold bar
and Mr. Blacks in NYC, been a flamboyant go-go dancer at X-RAY and Ibiza, and played with
superstar DJ’s like TIGA, FELIX da House KAT, and Alexander Rubric.
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Jean von Baden will flip records at the Rützou, Annhagen, and Hugo Boss shows, and at a
number of parties: Gallery’s Party, IC Company’s reception, Club Lækker, “I AM” and Nasa
Fashion Weekend.
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www.whiite.com
 www.groa.dk

CPH Vision – Stand No. 06