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Development of a 3D model of terry fabric

Article  in  International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology · July 2012

DOI: 10.1108/09556221211232838

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 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
Development of a 3D model of terry fabric
Nikolay Nikolov Diana Germanova-Krasteva Galya Kandzhikova
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To cite this document:
Nikolay Nikolov Diana Germanova-Krasteva Galya Kandzhikova, (2012),"Development of a 3D model of
terry fabric", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 24 Iss 4 pp. 237 - 250
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Diana Stoyanova Germanova-Krasteva, Galya Dimitrova Kandzhikova, Atanas Grigorov Bochev,
(2013),"Influence of terry fabrics structure on dynamic sorption", International Journal of Clothing Science
and Technology, Vol. 25 Iss 4 pp. 243-256 http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/09556221311326284
Salvinija Petrulyte, Asta Velickiene, Donatas Petrulis, (2014),"Influence of terry fabrics structure and
finishing on yarn pull-out behaviour", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 26 Iss 4
pp. 305-315 http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-06-2013-0068
Elizabeth Bye, Ellen McKinney, (2010),"Fit analysis using live and 3D scan models", International Journal of
Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 22 Iss 2/3 pp. 88-100 http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/09556221011018586

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A 3D model
Development of a 3D model of terry fabric
of terry fabric
Nikolay Nikolov
Technical University of Sofia, Sofia, Bulgaria, and 237
Diana Germanova-Krasteva and Galya Kandzhikova
Textile Department, Technical University of Sofia, Sofia, Bulgaria
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Abstract
Purpose – The purpose of this study is to develop a 3D geometric model of terry fabric, taking into
consideration structural and geometrical characteristics of the fabric and of the yarns: weave, yarn
counts, distances between yarns, weavings-in, etc.
Design/methodology/approach – The structural and geometrical parameters of the fabric and of
the yarns are obtained from the pattern by measuring, calculations and through geometric drawings.
The model is worked out by means of SolidWorks and is directly compatible for processing using
ANSYS. The proposed construction is checked for admission and for matching with the original
structure.
Findings – A 3D computational model, which can be used for strength-deformation simulation and
analysis of terry fabrics, has been developed.
Originality/value – The study developed a 3D geometric model of a complex woven structure
consisting of an additional pile warp system by means of non-specialized CAD software. It can be used
for strength-deformation simulation and analysis.
Keywords Terry fabrics, Pile structure, 3D computational model, CAD-system, SolidWorks,
Computer aided design, Fabric testing
Paper type Research paper

1. Introduction
Computer models are often used for description and examination of different objects
including textile ones. A computer model allows the conduction of various numerical
experiments and simulations which saves time and resources for expensive natural
experiments.
The development of a geometric model is the first step in computational modeling.
Nowadays, specialized software products called computer aided design (CAD)-systems
are used. Depending on the specification of the given task, universal or specialized
systems for automated design can be used. Among the universal systems applicable in
the sphere of textile production are the popular SolidWorksw, Pro/Engineerw, Siemens
NXw, etc. In addition to them, a number of specialized CAD-systems (Gray, 2007) were
created for the needs of textile and apparel production.
The systems with widest range of application are the specialized CAD-systems for
apparel design which automate the work of designers. Such systems are offered by the
companies Gerber Technology, Lectra, Assyst Bullmer, Grafis, etc. With them, basic International Journal of Clothing
constructions are built and then pattern developments of the details are done. Science and Technology
Vol. 24 No. 4, 2012
pp. 237-250
q Emerald Group Publishing Limited
The research has been implemented within project DDVU 02/57 “Complex examination and 0955-6222
evaluation of the softness of terry fabrics” funded by the Scientific Research Fund. DOI 10.1108/09556221211232838
 IJCST Contemporary systems also have modules developed to allow the simulation of a
24,4 finished 3D product from the separate plane details.
In the sphere of fabrics, the specialized CAD-systems for woven and knitting fabrics
and nonwovens are offered by the producer as an additional module to the respective
production machine or group of machines. The reason for this is the great variety of
structures.
238 One of the most popular CAD-systems for woven fabrics and warp knitted products
is DesignScopew victor of the German company EAT (www.designscopecompany.
com/en/infopattern/products/index.php). It allows designing of the structure of the
fabric, development of patterns and simulation of the appearance of the fabric. The
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system has also been bought by Bulgarian textile companies.

However, this kind of programs is not applicable when a strength-deformation
analysis of fabric is necessary.
In the design and the calculation of the deformation behaviour of fabrics, the WiseTex
program can be used. It has been developed by a team led by Professor Stepan Lomov
from the Catholic University in Leuven, Belgium (www.sirius.mtm.kuleuven.be/
Research/C2/poly/software.html). It is also the only specialized program with such
options that can be bought. WiseTex is constructed by a few modules: for wovens,
for knittings, for laminated products. It has a module for transfer of the developed
models to programs working with the finite element method and with their help
strength-deformation calculations are made. Examples for such programs are the
universal system for engineering analysis ANSYSw and the specialized for composite
textile system SACOM by Professor M. Zako from the Osaka University.
The WiseTex program has been developed for design of technical textile products
and does not allow modeling of fabric with additional loop structure.
The most popular products with loop structure are the terry products, the
production of which shows a constant growth in recent years of 2 percent per year
(Sharma and Madhusoothanan, 2011). They are widely used at homes, hotels, beauty
parlours, SPA centers, etc.
The requirements they have to meet are multiple and diverse (Frontczak-Wasiak
and Snycerski, 2004) as they are mainly related to the sorption capacity and their
softness.
The soft touch is the factor which attracts customers first. This is the reason that
this factor is important and must be considered in the evaluation of existing terry
fabric as well as the design of new ones.
The evaluation of the touch is a complex task which is related to a high extent with
the evaluation of the behaviour of the fabric in the event of deformations such as
pressure, bending, tension, cutting, etc. For the modeling of such behaviour, the
development of a credible geometric model is needed and it should reproduce the
characteristics of the terry fabric in the best way possible. The development of such a
model is the purpose of this article.
Raw fabric produced by the company “Yana Panagyurishte” AD has been chosen
for modeling.

2. Exposition
The construction of the model is done on the basis of: data from the producer;
measurements and calculations; geometric constructions.
 Data from the producer A 3D model
From the producing company, the following data has been taken: for the material and
the count of the warp, the weft and the pile warp yarns, the weave, the warp and the
of terry fabric
weft density, the loop height.
All threads participating in the formation of the fabric are 100 percent cotton staple
yarn as the warp yarns are ring spun yarns and the weft ones – rotor spun yarns.
By the count and the volume density of the cotton, the outer diameters of the yarns 239
are determined. The data is summarized in Table I.
The weave of the fabric in the loop zone is rep 2†/†1 and the densities – 220 t./dm
for the warp threads and 190 t./dm for the weft threads.
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The loop height is 6 mm.

Measurements and calculations

Pictures of the fabric have been made in the non-loop area. In the selected zones, the
weave and the situation of the threads correspond to the ones in the loop area as at the
same time they allow the determination of the axis base. An eye-piece micrometer with
a scale of 10:100 has been used for the measurement. The micrometer has been placed
crosswise (Figure 1) and lengthwise (Figure 2) of the fabric consecutively. The axis
base has been measured at five places.
The following markings have been introduced corresponding to the number and the
arrangement of the threads in the repeat:
.
regarding the warp threads – first ground warp, first pile warp, second pile
warp, second ground warp; and
.
regarding the weft threads – first weft, second weft, third weft.
The mean values of the axis bases used for the drawing of the model of the fabric have
been calculated.
A verification of the admissibility has been done for the results obtained on the
grounds of the technologically planned densities.
The length of the warp repeat obtained as a sum of the axis bases is:
Lwarp ¼ 2 · 0:45 þ 0:35 þ 0:57 ¼ 1:82 mm ð1Þ
and the one of the weft repeat:
Lweft ¼ 2 · 0:50 þ 0:58 ¼ 1:58 mm: ð2Þ
The length of the repeats determined by the number of threads in the repeat and the
technological densities is:
220 4 400
¼ ; i:e: Lwarp ¼ ¼ 1:82 mm ð3Þ
100 Lwarp 220

Yarns
Characteristics Warp Weft Pile
Table I.
Count, tex 60 40 40 Cross section yarns’
Outer diameters (mm) 0.3 0.25 0.25 characteristics
 IJCST
24,4

240
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Figure 1.
Picture of the fabric
with crosswise placed
micrometer

Figure 2.
Picture of the fabric
with lengthwise placed
micrometer
 and: A 3D model
190 3 300 of terry fabric
¼ ; i:e: Lweft ¼ ¼ 1:58 mm: ð4Þ
100 Lweft 190
The second group of measurements is related to the determination of the depth of
crimping of the warp and the weft threads. 241
From a sample sized 10 £ 10 cm, five warp and five weft threads have been
unraveled. With a microscope and an eye-piece micrometer with 10x magnification, the
height of the waves of the crimped threads has been measured (Figure 3). Five
measurements have been made for each thread.
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It has been established that the mean height of the waves of the base warp threads
is 0.58 mm and the one of the weft threads – 0.5 mm, i.e. the deviations in the axis of the
warp threads is:
Dwarp ¼ hwarp 2 dwarp ¼ 0:58 2 0:3 ¼ 0:28 mm ð5Þ
and the deviation in the axis of the weft threads is:
Dweft ¼ hweft 2 dweft ¼ 0:5 2 0:25 ¼ 0:25 mm; ð6Þ
where:
hwarp – the measured mean height of crimping of the warp yarns.
hweft – the measured mean height of crimping of the weft yarns.
dwarp – the diameter of the warp yarns.
dweft – the diameter of the weft yarns.
For the same yarns, the coefficients of weaving-in have been determined as for a warp
the coefficient is CWwarp ¼ 1.10 and for a weft CWweft ¼ 1.07. These values then have
been used for accuracy verification of the modeling of the yarns crimping.
Regarding the loop structure, the following parameters have been determined:
.
lateral misalignment of the loops – 2 mm;
.
height of the loop structure – 3 mm; and
.
length of the projection of the loop in the plane of the fabric – 3 mm.

Geometric constructions
For the construction of the geometric model, the universal CAD-system SolidWorks
has been used. The work has been done according to the scheme shown in Figure 4.

Figure 3.
Measurement of the
wave height of the
crimped threads
 IJCST
24,4

242
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Figure 4.
Construction of the
geometric model

First, the weft threads have been constructed (Figures 5-7). The construction includes
the following steps:
(1) A rectangle is created from axes with a base equal to the repeat in the direction
of the weft and a height equal to the intervals between the centers of the sections
of the warp threads.
 1,820 A 3D model
0.2850 0.450 0.285 of terry fabric

R0
.27
5

0.125
.27

5
R0
243
.25 Figure 5.
Construction of

0.15
R0

∅0.30 ∅0.25 ∅0.30 first weft thread

Downloaded by TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY OF SOFIA At 21:57 06 September 2015 (PT)

1,820
0.2850 0.450 0.285

0.135
0.20

R0

Figure 6.
.27
R0
5

Construction of
.27

0.135
5
.25

∅0.30 ∅0.25 ∅0.30 second weft thread

R0

1,820
R0

0.2850 0.450 0.285

.25

0.150

Figure 7.
0.125
5
R0

.27

Construction of
.27

R0

∅0.30 ∅0.25 ∅0.30 third weft thread

5

(2) Five vertical axes are drawn – two at the ends of the repeat and three more
corresponding to the positions of the warp threads. The fact that each weft
thread has a contact with only one of the loop-forming threads in the repeat is
considered.
(3) In the points of intersection of the axes, three circumferences are drawn which
correspond to the cross sections of the warp threads in the plane of crimping of
the respective weft thread.
 IJCST (4) The axes of the weft threads are constructed. Catenaries are drawn with radii
concentric to the sections of the loop-forming threads and radii equal to the sum
24,4 of the radii of the weft and the warp threads. The catenaries are interconnected
with tangent.
(5) For obtainment of three repeats, the obtained axis is copied three times.
(6) In the beginning of the first repeat in a plane which is normal to the axis, a cross
244 section of the weft thread is drawn.
(7) The cross section is pulled along the axis of the thread as it always remains
normal to it. A 3D solid body is obtained – the geometric model of the
respective weft thread.
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(8) The weaving-in of the modeled threads is juxtaposed to the one of the real
threads. The length of the weft threads measured by the CAD-system for one
repeat is 1,950 mm. The coefficient of weaving-in for the model is:
1:95
CW weft;model ¼ ¼ 1:07; ð7Þ
1:82
as the value fully corresponds to the measured coefficient of weaving-in.
After the construction of the models of the three weft threads, an assembled unit is
formed from them. In the assembled unit, four weft thread of each kind take part so
that four repeats are obtained in the direction of the warp. For their accurate
positioning in the space, the following relations are set:
.
the middle horizontal axes of the weft threads lie in one plane;
.
the beginnings of the weft threads lie in one plane;
.
all weft threads are crimped in a vertical plane; and
.
the interval between the weft threads is according to the measured axis bases.

After the construction of the weft threads and their placing one towards the other, the
two warp ground threads have been modeled (Figures 8 and 9). The sequence of the
works is analogous to the one in the construction of the weft threads. The specific
element is that the obtained axis is copied four times. In the direction of the warp threads,

1,580
0.290 0.500 0.290
5
.27
R0

0.140
R0.

Figure 8.
5
.27

0.140
275

Construction of first
R0

ground warp thread ∅0.250 ∅0.25 ∅0.25

 1,580 A 3D model
0.290 0.50 0.290 of terry fabric

0.140
75
R0

.2
.27

R0
5

245
Downloaded by TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY OF SOFIA At 21:57 06 September 2015 (PT)

0.140
Figure 9.

R0
Construction of second

.27
∅0.25 ∅0.25 ∅0.25 ground warp thread

5
one more repeat is modeled so that a geometric model with approximately identical sizes
in the warp and in the weft direction is obtained.
After the construction, the weaving-in of the modeled threads is again juxtaposed
with the one of the real threads. The length of the ground warp threads measured by
the CAD-system for one repeat is 1,738 mm and the coefficient of weaving-in of the
model is:
1:738
CW warp;model ¼ ¼ 1:10: ð8Þ
1:58
Only the first ground warp thread is constructed and the second one is
antisymmetrical to the first one as the axis of antisymmetry lies in the middle plane
of the fabric.
After the construction of the models of the two ground threads they are added to the
assembled unit formed by the weft threads. Three ground threads of each kind
take part in the assembled unit so that three repeats are obtained in the direction of the
weft. The ground threads are positioned in the space towards each other and towards
the rest of the threads. The following relations are set:
. the middle horizontal axes of the ground threads lie in one plane – the middle
plane of the fabric;
.
the beginnings of the ground threads lie in one plane;
.
all ground threads are crimped in a vertical plane; and
.
the group of the ground threads is positioned towards the group of the weft ones
as the mutual intervals in the three directions are set in accordance with the
drafts shown in Figures 5-9.

After the construction of the ground structure of warp ground threads and weft
threads, the pile warp threads are modeled (Figures 10 and 11).
The works are done in the following sequence:
(1) The parts of the axis of the pile threads contacting with the weft threads are
constructed. These parts are catenaries concentric to the sections of the weft
threads and with radii equal to the sum of the radii of the weft and the pile threads.
 IJCST
24,4 3

3
246
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1,580
0.50
0.580
0.50

0.14
R0

Figure 10.
∅0.25
,25
,25

Construction of first
R0

pile warp thread ∅0.25

∅0.25
25 ∅0.25
0.
R0

R
.2
5
0.14

0.50
0.580
0.50
1.580
3

3
Figure 11.
Construction of 2
second pile warp thread
 The observations made on the way of interlacing of the threads and the zones A 3D model
of contact between them show that the catenary for the first pile thread of terry fabric
at the beginning of the repeat has an angle length of 308 and at the end of the
repeat – 908. The second pile thread has the same shape but is antisymmetrical
towards the first one in a horizontal and vertical cross plane.
(2) In the 3D space, three axes are drawn. They are used for obtainment of the point
of the approximate top of the loop. Based on data from the measurements of the 247
first pile thread, the top is situated at 3 mm above the base plane of the fabric,
at 3 mm to the front towards the catenary at the end of the repeat and at 2 mm to
the viewer towards the plane of contact with the weft threads (Figures 10 and 11).
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(3) The rest of the axis of the pile thread is drawn. It is a spatial spline. A total
of seven points are used in its constructions and they are marked on
Figures 10 and 11. Two of them are in the two ends of the spline (in the warp of the
fabric). In these points, the directions of the lines are also set which are tangential
to the catenaries at the beginning and at the end of the repeat. The third point is
the approximate top of the loop. The other four points (two on each side of the top)
form the body of the loop. The form of the loop is determined through successive
iterations in which the position of the points of support is varied as well as the
radius of circumflexion and the inclination of the tangents to the spline in them.
The following is watched closely:
.
the form of the loop should be maximally close to the real one;
.
the total length of the loop should be 12 mm (the height of the loop is 6 mm);
. no sinking of volumes should occur in the pile thread in the zone of its
intersection as well as in the pile thread in the adjacent threads of the warp or
the adjacent loops; and
.
the circumflexion of the axis should be smooth and with natural curves. In the
formation of the 3D body of the thread, the non-observation of this requirement
would lead to its “twisting” or “refraction” which would lead to a deformation
of the cross section. It would lead to complication of the network of final
elements and to difficulties in the following strength-deformation calculations.
(4) The obtained axis is copied four times and the body of the thread is formed.

The second pile thread is antisymmetic to the first one in the horizontal and the vertical
cross plane.
After the construction of the models of the two pile threads, they are added to the
assembled unit and the final geometric model of the fabric is obtained. Three pile threads
of each kind take part in the assembled unit to that three repeats are obtained in the
direction of the weft. The following relations are set:
.
the middle horizontal axes should lie in the middle plane of the fabric;
.
the beginnings should lie in one plane;
.
the planes of contact with the weft threads should be vertical;
.
the intervals between the pile threads should correspond to the measured ones; and
.
the group of the pile threads should be positioned towards the other threads as
the mutual intervals on the three directions should be set.
 IJCST General view of the geometric model
24,4 The next figure shows a general view of the geometric model consisting of 12 repeats
(3 £ 4).
Sections through all threads are shown in Figure 12. They show the form of the
threads in the fabric as well as their mutual situation. With their help, the accuracy of
interlacing of the threads, the phase construction, the loop inclination and other
248 structural parameters of the product are checked.
A visual evaluation is made from the sections for the presence of contacts and
mutual sinking between the threads. In addition to that, the CAD-system has a function
called “Interference Detection”. With its help, all conflict zones can be found even if
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they cannot be seen with a direct inspection, in which as a result of incorrect

construction a mutual sinking of the participating elements can happen.
The verification done with this function found out that for the model shown in
Figure 13 there is no mutual sinking.

3. Conclusion
A 3D geometric model has been developed for fabric with loop structure as basic
geometric and structural characteristics have been considered. Averification has been
made for admissibility of the proposed constructive solution – absence of mutual
sinking between the threads, inadmissible twisting or refraction and conjunction of the
parameters of the measured with the modeled threads.
The model has been developed with the CAD-system SolidWorks, which makes it
directly compatible with the software ANSYS. The purpose is for it to be used for
modeling and simulation of strength-deformation behaviour of fabric with loop warp.

Figure 12.
Sections through
all threads
 A 3D model
of terry fabric

249
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First weft Second weft

Third weft

First ground warp Second ground warp

Figure 13.
General view of
the geometric model
First pile warp Second pile warp
 IJCST Initially, tests for examination will be done of the deformations of the fabric in
compression which show its main consumer characteristic – softness.
24,4 The working out is the first attempt for construction of a model of fabric with loop
structure. Future works will show its advantages and disadvantages as well as the
possible need for its improvement.

250 References
Frontczak-Wasiak, I. and Snycerski, M. (2004), “Use properties of terry woven fabrics”,
Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 12 No. 1, pp. 40-4.
Gray, S. (2007), CAD/CAM in Clothing and Textiles, Gower Publishing, Aldershot.
Downloaded by TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY OF SOFIA At 21:57 06 September 2015 (PT)

Sharma, U. and Madhusoothanan, M. Dr (2011), Terry Towel: Some Developments for Quality
Improvement, available at: www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/textile-industry-
articles/terry-towel-some-developments-for-quality-improvement/terry-towel-some-
developments-for-quality-improvement1.asp

Corresponding author
Diana Germanova-Krasteva can be contacted at: Dianakra@tu-sofia.bg

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 This article has been cited by:

1. Jitendra Pratap Singh, Bijoya Kumar Behera. 2015. Geometric modeling of terry fabric. International
Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 27:2, 237-246. [Abstract] [Full Text] [PDF]
2. Salvinija Petrulyte, Asta Velickiene, Donatas Petrulis. 2014. Influence of terry fabrics structure and
finishing on yarn pull-out behaviour. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 26:4,
305-315. [Abstract] [Full Text] [PDF]
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