Food Food

Food

Left Hiba on Bruny Island, home to Bruny Island Providore. Clockwise from above Perusing the
goods at Salamanca markets; (left to right) Steve, Luciano, Jess and Steph of Maldini; Maldini’s prawn
salad; Hotel Islington.

For my first overnight destination in to perfection then delicately perched on

beautiful Tasmania I’ve taken the lead from
last edition’s “Perfect Weekend” with Max
Walker and chosen the Henry Jones Art
Hotel at the water’s edge of Sullivan’s Cove.
The night sky is clear, there’s almost a full
moon with just a breath of wind. Fishing
boats at their moorings are accompanied by
the sounds of gulls, and halliards slapping on
yacht masts. Aromas of sea are mixed with
marine diesel (which I confess I love), and
a bed of hand-picked spinach, lovingly
napped with a creamy, unctuous emulsion
of kitchen-made hollandaise sauce is just
perfect. The hotel’s Eggs Florentine would
have been no better in Florence.
Dinner on my first night at the hotel
also passed with flying colours with top
marks going to a simple fresh pasta served
with mussels, lobster, salmon roe, white
fish in a creamy dill sauce, followed by a

devilishly
cognac... a congenial member of staff has
promptly served me a nightcap at a table in
front of the establishment. My mood is of
great expectation of things to come.
Max raved about the chic decor of the
Henry Jones Art Hotel and another of its
strong points is the food. In a kitchen so
small you’d have trouble swinging a mouse,
let alone a cat, chef André Kropp delivers the
goods in a no-nonsense fashion, with local
produce the key element of his culinary
thoroughly decent steak with caramelised
onions and Huon Valley mushrooms.
Dining here is inside or out in the Atrium
and is accompanied by predominantly
Tasmanian wines.
Hobart is a pretty good place to start
a gastronomic sojourn, especially on a
Saturday, when the Salamanca market takes of co-owner and barista Luciano, I slipped
pride of place in this palateer’s appetite. into an Australian prawn salad with aioli
It’s good to see that over the years this and a couple of glasses of reasonably priced
market remains a place where arts, craft and Tassie Pinot. As well as running a tight

delicious
approach. Born in South Africa, Kropp
has worked at some of Melbourne’s better
establishments and tells me that nearly all
his food is locally sourced, and it shows.
At home, I rarely think seriously
about eating much before midday. Food is
Stay and eat... what a beautiful phrase. When I was invited to stay and eat - and drink - eschewed rather than chewed. I know it’s
for ten days in Tasmania, my heart soared, my salivary glands went all a-quiver, and my naughty, but a cup of coffee can suffice
waistline anticipated a modest expansion. until lunchtime. But when I’m on the
Words Ian Parmenter Photography Ian Parmenter & Ann Dewar road, I become Captain Breakfast. Not for
me the fruit salad and skinny yoghurt; two
farm-fresh, free-range eggs, gently poached
apparel have not overwhelmed the produce
stalls. It’s still bustling with gastronomes
looking for the best quality fruits, vegetables,
olives, oil, and wines. And running alongside
it, fine eateries.
A recommended setting for a lunch
was Maldini’s in Salamanca Place. “Not
exactly Vue de Monde, but pretty good
basic Italian”, I was told by a regular visitor.
The observation proved to be spot on,
after a friendly welcome from the young
enthusiastic staff, under the watchful eye
ship, Luciano does a really good espresso,
though judging by his serious demeanour,
he’s probably not the sort of person you
would ask for a skim soya milk latte with
carob topping.
A chef I was keen to catch up with was
Annie Parmentier. No relation. I’d heard a
lot about her from her days helping Victoria
Alexander set up the legendary Bathers’
Pavilion at Sydney’s Balmoral Beach. A
country girl from Dubbo, this former
teacher – “I lasted about 2½ seconds teaching

72 spring 07 spring 07 73
Food
Left to right Chris Jackman’s twice cooked egg with chilli jam; (left to right) Andy McKinlay, Justin Harris and Paul Foreman at Moorilla Estate;
a unique substitute for door handles at Hiba on Bruny Island.
before the bureaucracy finished me” – is the
driving force behind the food at the second
hotel of my visit, the Islington.
Whereas the Henry Jones might
be described as boutique, Islington is
positively bijou – a jewel in the capital city’s
accommodation crown. Also in Hobart,
but in the shadow of Mount Wellington,
it’s very small in room numbers, but big on
comfort and panache.
There’s no restaurant as such at Islington
but on demand Annie P, a kind of flying
chef, will cook up a storm, when she’s not
collecting nuts and vegetables from her own
garden, and doing her cooked breakfasts,
which are far from bijou in size, all served
either in the spacious conservatory or
in one of their elegant drawing rooms.
The maximum number of diners served
is 22, and they’re likely to sit down to
saffron mussels, rack of lamb with tomato
tarte tartin, and a sauternes panna cotta
with berries. This establishment clearly
represents hospitality with a capital ‘H’.
Great comfort, a comprehensive bar which
works on an honour system. It is here
that I enjoyed the best scrambled egg and
mushroom breakfast, plus Annie’s own
berry muffins and rhubarb compote.
One of my favourite chefs in Hobart
from previous visits is Chris Jackman,
formerly of the highly regarded Mit Zitrone.
He’s between ventures, and I found him
guest chefing at Moorilla Estate Winery
as part of the Ten Days on the Island Arts
74 spring 07
His (Jackman’s) signature dish of twice-cooked egg
with fried spinach and garlic and a chilli jam sauce
was, as always, sublime – to say nothing of his
homemade Spanish sausage with candied beetroot.
I have been raving about these dishes ever since...
Festival.The winery is a cork’s pop from the
centre of Hobart and always worth a visit.
Catching up with Jackman rewarded the
effort. His signature dish of twice-cooked
egg with fried spinach and garlic and a chilli
jam sauce was, as always, sublime – to say
nothing of his homemade Spanish sausage
with candied beetroot. I have been raving
about these dishes ever since, he is a chef
who knows his flavours and textures and I
look forward to his next venture.
Executive chef at Moorilla is Justin
Harris, one of Hobart’s chefing luminaries.
Working with him at the Estate for a fund-
raising dinner to send a Southern Tasmanian
culinary team to the LifeStyle FOOD
Australian Regional Culinary Competition
at Tasting Australia in Adelaide, was his peer,
Paul Foreman. Paul is the leading light
behind the highly-regarded Marque IV
restaurant on Elizabeth Street Pier.
And what a joy it was to enjoy Tasmanian
rock lobster served with a pannacotta and
shellfish oil, and three tastes of Wessex
saddleback pork, courtesy of local organic
pig farmer Leigh Christmas: shaved leg ham
with raclette cheese brioche and mushy
peas, a sublime baked pork dumpling with
the crispiest pork crackling, and a pork
and dried cherry terrine with sugar cured
bacon and mustard fruits. Christmas is one
of this new breed of no-compromise food
producers, who is really making a mark in
Australia and overseas.
By now I should have been saying
“no, please, no more”. But yes, there was
plenty more: confit of white rabbit, roasted
shallots, sage semolina gnocchi and rabbit’s
fry; followed by William Pear Tarte Tatin
with buttermilk ice-cream served with
a Moorilla sticky. Such sublime flavours
from this talented team. (Note to self: Must
remember to check out Paul Foreman’s
own restaurant, Marque IV on next visit to
the island.)
Little islands have ways of producing
great gastronomic delights, and here I’m not
only referring to Tasmania, which certainly
punches above its weight in top quality
produce. A somewhat lesser known patch of
land is Bruny, a mere olive pip’s spit from
Hobart. This is where sensational fudge and
handmade chocolate truffles are produced
– about 1½ million of them a year, thanks
to the endeavours of lapsed chef Michael
Carnes. From his beautiful property,
Hiba, Michael runs Bruny Island Providore
a cottage industry in a modern-day
baronial hall, which also has accommodation
in the form of a cottage overlooking the
ocean. A great base from which to explore
the island.
Not to be missed is Bruny Island
Charters run by enterprising couple Robert
Pennicott and Michaye Boulter. Their three
high-speed powerboats are the best way to
explore the rugged south-eastern parts of
the island. Taking in the sight of dramatic
Food
Clockwise from above Chef, Gareth
(Gaz) Pattersen-Were at Freycinet Escape;
One of the ‘tents at Freycinet Escape;
Michael Carnes catches a chocolate fish;
Exploring the island with Bruny Island
Charters;
Below Dolphins joining in on the
Freycinet Escape.
Henry Jones Art Hotel:
www.thehenryjones.com
The Islington Hotel:
www.islingtonhotel.com
Bruny Island Charters:
www.brunycharters.com.au
Hiba: www.hiba.com.au
Freycinet Escape:
www.freycinetescape.com.au
Peppers Calstock:
www.peppers.com.au/calstock
Glencoe Rural Retreat:
www.glencoeruralretreat.com
Moorilla Estate Winery:
cliffs and caves, sealions and albatrosses, www.moorilla.com.au
and inhaling the sea air, I cannot help but
develop an appetite. This is soon satisfied
by the company’s team of cooks, which
greets us sailors with Tasmania’s seemingly
ubiquitous soup, pumpkin, here served with
a hint of spice, a smoked salmon and salad
roll, and a warming Cabernet Sauvignon.
Another outdoor highlight of this happy
traveller’s visit was a taste of camping, 5-star
style. Initially nervous about spending time
under canvas, I was assured that Freycinet
Escape was no ordinary camping trip.
Departing by boat from Coles Bay, half
way up Tasmania’s east coast, travellers are
whizzed down the Freycinet peninsula, to
a hidden destination in the national park.
Nestled in the trees is a collection of ‘tents’,
Food
Clockwise from above With Daniel Tourancheau and pet at Peppers Calstock; The Georgian mansion, home of Peppers Calstock; Remi and Ginette
Bancal at Glencoe Retreat; It is the Apple Isle after all!
which are more like cabins. The temporary
accommodation is helicoptered into the
bush in October, anchored to the ground
with seawater filled containers, and then
flown out again at the end of the summer
season, so that no sign remains of the camp
ever having been there. Everything that
goes in comes out again.
This eco-resort offers a maximum of 10
visitors at a time, four days and three nights
of walks, swimming, kayaking, boating or
just relaxing – and eating and drinking really
well. With no electricity, no mobile phones,
no television, this kind of holidaying is out
of this world (though actually in it). It’s a
peaceful affair with top catering by chef
Gareth ‘Gaz’ Patterson-Were, a former
pastry cook and baker, who knocks up
platters of sheer heaven, which are served in
the communal kitchen-dining-sitting tent.
In a very short time, one gets a feeling of
life in the early days of settlement.
Peppers Calstock also takes the visitor
back in time, and it’s my next stay. Calstock
is a grand old house at Deloraine, a
45-minute drive from Launceston. Sitting
in 200 acres of farmland and gardens, the
Georgian mansion, built in 1837, retains
its old-world style while providing highly
sophisticated hospitality. Its slick operation
is overseen by an energetic and passionate
couple, Linda and Daniel Tourancheau.
Breakfasts and dinners are served here,
with the morning repasts taken in the
76 spring 07
French-flavoured blue room, and dinner in
the more formal dining room. The dinner
is a set menu of seasonal produce, providing
the diner with a wide variety of Monsieur
Tourancheau’s French-inspired taste and
texture sensations, such as his entrée of
smoked salmon and creme fraîche roulade;
oyster with lemongrass and shallots and a
sherry vinaigrette; cucumber ribbon salad
with pickled ginger; and lobster with mango
and heart of palm salad.Tiny delights which
could well be followed by kassler-style
smoked lamb rack with Moroccan spiced
carrots, then venison with caramelised onion
and blue cheese tart, sweet potato fondant,
fresh cooked figs and star anise jus. And
then a trio of desserts: mango, strawberry
and rum sorbet; an oh-so-français plum and
almond tart; and a coffee and Frangelico
white chocolate mousse.
With so many large spaces, bedrooms
where you could happily hold a significant
cocktail party, bathrooms big enough to
hold a shower tea or two, and spacious
sitting areas inside and out, this is somewhere
to stay for several days and indulge in the
many pleasures, which include wines from
one of the state’s finest cellars. And it’s a
good spot to take in nearby attractions, such
as Cradle Mountain.
There has long been a French connection
at Calstock. It made its name for fine dining
when French couple Ginette and Remi
Bancal established it in 1999. They spent
eight years there before moving on and
opening Glencoe Rural Retreat just up the
road (well, 44km up the road) in Barrington.
This genial pair, Ginette from Reunion
Island and Remi from Nîmes in Southern
France, met in England in 1975 and came
to Australia in 1987 after a long stint at the
Paris Ritz, for “a bit of an adventure”. And
stayed.The Bancals seem to live and breathe
the growing and preparing of food, with
their herb and vegetable garden supplying
much of Glencoe’s produce.
As well as a tiny cafe for daytime visitors,
where Remi’s soups, salads and terrines
are consumed with gusto, he prepares true
French country dishes at night for guests
of their four rooms, such as pork rillettes,
Nîmoise chicken cooked in true provençal
fashion with tomatoes, garlic, onions and
olives, pears poached in red wine and
‘bleeding heart’ chocolate cake with a
fondant centre.You get the picture, and it’s a
very pretty one.
With all the talk of climate change
and Australia’s agricultural areas moving
southwards, there’s much discussion about
Tasmania becoming the nation’s food bowl.
Judging by my travels and seeing the drive
and passion of the state’s producers and
chefs, I’d say it already is. If I were to sum up
the experiences of its food and hospitality
in one word, it would have to be ‘bliss’! And
I realise I’ve only just scratched the surface.
I can’t wait to return... n