The Quest For The Well-Fitting Trousers - What I Have Learned

12/26/2019 The quest for the well-fitting trousers - what I have learned > with my hands - Dream
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Your Unique Dressform and

why you should make your
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A wool walking skirt
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Follow Drafting my orange ramie

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Make the most supportive,
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The quest for the well-fitting trousers for sewing bras with a flawless fit.
– what I have learned 00:00 00:59
November 29, 2017 / 7 Comments
H
ow to get a trouser pattern that fits? Sewing Katja's sewing
trousers is not really difficult. The difficulties come tip:
when you try to get them to fit. I have tried dozens
Baste with a
contrasting thread

of patterns and still the fit issues have persisted. My goal for easy removal
of the basting
for this year has been to learn to make a good fitting pair
stitches.
https://withmyhandsdream.com/2017/11/29/the-quest-for-the-well-fitting-trousers/ 1/20
of trousers and I think I have finally succeeded. Now I

can share what I have learned.
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First I will tell about all the patterns I have tried. Then I
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show you how to replicate your old pair of trousers that fit This website uses affiliate links. This
and how to adjust the pattern to get the perfect fit. I will The Big List of Sewing
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The trouser patterns I have tried this year expressedElokuu-jacket
are my own. and a
matching skirt
Now you’ll see the truth about how much I haven’t
actually published this year! I managed to find some Your Unique Dressform and
photos of the not-so-well-succeeded trousers I have
own
made.
Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers
I made a blog post about trying to get them to fit. Introducing:

Skirt Calculator
At this time I didn’t know about the importance of
the grainline which is the main reason my The quest for the well-fitting
attempt failed. Also the pattern wasn’t really trousers - what I have
new postslearned
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 made for my body and there were numerous fit 
issues. Most of them stem from the fact that the Bullet Journal for Sewing
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whole pattern is drafted in a wrong angle for me.
I am sure this pattern works for many people but Follow Drafting my orange ramie
not for me. dress (a FREE pattern)

that
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1080p
for sewing bras with a flawless fit.
00:00 00:59
Katja's sewing
tip:
Sew Over It Carrie Trousers
Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
These were a complete disaster – so much in of the basting
fact that I didn’t even post them. You could think stitches.
that this kind of loose fitting pants would be a

piece of cake. Not! Basically the issues I had
with the Ultimate Trousers showed much worse MY AFFILIATES
when there was much more fabric to show the fit TOP POSTS & PAGES
issues. These pants formed horrible creases The Big List of Sewing
towards my crotch and were super unflattering Pattern Companies
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Style Arc: Claudia pants
 
My sewing guru Michele suggested these. I Email Address
managed to make a pair of capris after about
four or five toiles. This pattern would work better
for a person with a flatter bum. They still tend to
pull a bit across my hips. 10 different types of fabric
that
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00:00 00:59
Katja's sewing
tip:
Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
Vogue #1440 of the basting
stitches.
These were a leggings pattern. Unfortunately I

made a size too big and was too lazy to fix them.
I may fix them later if I manage to locate them… MY AFFILIATES
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Simplicity 3688 This website uses affiliate links. This
This is a 1940s retro pattern. This was a pair that Pattern Companies
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your
trousers since they actually fit pretty well. The sewing room
waist became a little tight, though and I could
are my own. and a
have perhaps taken in a bit from the hips. In any
matching skirt
case, they basically looked right with no pulling.
The retro look, however, is not what I’m after. I Your Unique Dressform and
did consider going forward and drafting this own
pattern into a pants sloper for me…
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that
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Named Tyyni pants - $24.99 with your fingertips!
I tried a pair of Tyyni pants when visiting Named 1080p
studio-shop in the autumn. They fitted quite well
and I bought the pattern. However, when I made
my first toile, I was disappointed. They were
super baggy and unflattering and needed a huge 00:00 00:59
amount of work. I threw my toile away since I

was so far from a well fitting pair that if I ever
wanted one, I should start by comparing the
Katja's sewing
pattern to a well fitting sloper before doing
tip:
anything else: Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
of the basting
stitches.
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After all these tries I knew I could make a pair that fits but
own
I was not sure if any commercially available pattern
would really work. There just is not a trouser pattern that A wool walking skirt
would fit any body and thus trying different patterns is a
bit hit-and-miss. Then I tried a pair of linen trousers I had Introducing:
found from a flea market and which actually fitted quite Skirt Calculator
well. If I could just replicate them… The quest for the well-fitting
Replicating
 an old pair of trousers new postslearned
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
Ok. Here are the linen trousers that fit me. You see how Email Address
they hug my hips and that there are no weird creases
radiating from my crotch. There are no front darts and Follow Drafting my orange ramie
two back darts, one on each side. (There is also a white
lining that makes me look like I’m wearing giant granny 10 different types of fabric
that
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panties… You just can’t have everything!) These trousers
do not have any stretch, so that is useful since I want my
sloper to work for many kinds of fabrics.
1080p
00:00 00:59
Katja's sewing
tip:
Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
of the basting
stitches.
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own
So what I did was to lay the pair on a big sheet of pattern A wool walking skirt
paper. I used some fabric weights to hold the trousers in
place. This is essential, since in order to draw the
Introducing:
pattern, I have to keep moving the edges of the trouser Skirt Calculator
pattern piece I am working on. The center front and back Enter your email address to follow
seam and the crotch curve are a bit challenging but they The quest for the well-fitting
can be done. Here is a little video clip on how to proceed: new postslearned
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that
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1080p
00:00 00:59
Katja's sewing
tip:
Baste with a
contrasting thread

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of the basting
stitches.
img_5504-m4v
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0:56 / 0:56
that
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I draw my pattern using 15 mm seam allowance. You
1080p
could also draw the pattern without any seam allowance,
but since you have to fold the edges of the fabric back
and forth I feel that is easier if my drawing line is a bit
further away from the seam line.
00:00 00:59
Forget the waistband since that can be added later. You

will be able to mark the back dart by approaching the dart
position separately from both sides and keeping the
Katja's sewing
fabric flat while you are drawing. Mark also the dart point tip:
on the pattern. Finally mark the grainline on both of your Baste with a
contrasting thread

pattern pieces. This is important! for easy removal
of the basting
stitches.
Toiling, toiling, toiling… HOME SHOP MY PROJECTS SEWING  TUTORIAL
Make your toile out of cheap fabric that has MY AFFILIATES

approximately the same thickness as your trouser fabric TOP POSTS & PAGES
you plan on using. I have been using the unbleached The Big List of Sewing
Ikea cotton and that works fine. One of my friends uses Pattern Companies
gingham that actually is a very good choice since the
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gingham pattern shows clearly where the grainline is sewing room
twisted.
are my own. and a
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The importance of grain Your Unique Dressform and

own
Always and I mean always mark the grainline on your
trouser toile. When you have the grainline visible it is A wool walking skirt
possible to determine the cause of folds and creases that
are due to twisted grainline. And yes, your grainline can Introducing:
get twisted even if you cut the trousers perfectly on grain. Skirt Calculator
This happens when the shape of the pattern doesn’t Enter your email address to follow
properly match the shape of your leg. this blog and receive notifications of
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Trousers don’t really have much ease. Tiny adjustments
have a big effect. Moving a seam for 5 mm is a big
change and has a profound effect on how the garment dress (a FREE pattern)
sits on you. This means that you have to cut your pattern
accurately. If you don’t have a pattern that has seam that you should recognize
Sewing Bras:
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allowances included, you have to measure and draw the - $24.99 with your fingertips!
seam allowances on your fabric (or the pattern) before Make the most supportive,
cutting trousers. 1080p
Making and Fitting the toile for sewing bras with a flawless fit.
You can make your toile higher than what your finished
00:00 00:59
trousers will be. Make your seam allowances big. 15 mm
is a minimum, but I recommend to add even 4 cm to the
side seams since you can always chop that extra off after
you have adjusted the width. Katja's sewing
tip:
Adjust your sewing machine to the longest stitch length.
You can also reduce the thread tension to be able to rip
Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
the seams easily. Sew the trousers up but don’t sew the of the basting
darts, yet. stitches.
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Some of my trouser toiles. These are from the time I was Your Unique Dressform and
trying the Claudia pants by Style Arc, but the idea is the own
same…
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The Closet Case patters has a great post about how to fit Skirt Calculator
jeans. It basically lists most of the things that cause fitting Enter your email address to follow
issues. However, it’s best to tackle one issue at the time. this blog and receive notifications of
Don’t expect the first toile to work all the way to the end. new postslearned
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Some issues cannot be fixed in one go. 
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Start by fitting the waist so that the trousers stay up.
(Otherwise tackling the crotch problems don’t really Follow Drafting my orange ramie
matter!) Pin the darts so that the waist has the right dress (a FREE pattern)
length. Take away the extra fabric at the side seams if
there are any or let out the side seams if the trousers feel that you should recognize
Sewing Bras:
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too tight. Don’t trim the seam allowances, yet. Then ask a - $24.99 with your fingertips!
friend to pin the darts to fit your body. Sometimes the Make the most supportive,
darts need to be longer or shorter than what the pattern 1080p
suggests or even be left out completely. Sew the darts. owned. Get step-by-step guidance
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Katja's sewing
Learn tip:
Now, look at the grainline. It should be completely

Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
vertical. It if pulls to one side it means that that side of the basting
stitches.
needs more fabric. Look at the image above. You can

easily see that the trouser toile in question needs more
fabric at my upper thigh since the grainline pulls to the MY AFFILIATES
side. You can also check this by opening up the seam at TOP POSTS & PAGES
the point where the grainline is pulling. The grainline The Big List of Sewing
should correct itself and a gap should be formed. Also, Pattern Companies
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your
lines, if they are pulling in one direction or another, you sewing room
will need to add more fabric to that side.
are my own. and a
The next thing to fit is the crotch. These adjustments are matching skirt
a bit tricky to explain since I have fitted pants only on me.
What do the trousers look? What do they feel like? Is why you should make your
there fabric bunching up somewhere. Do the trousers feel own
tight at some point. Pay attention to wrinkling. Wrinkles A wool walking skirt
are due to two different things. Either you have too much
fabric that is bunching up, or then the wrinkles are formed
Introducing:
because the fabric is pulling towards a place where there Skirt Calculator
isn’t enough fabric. Try to determine which of the two Enter your email address to follow
things is causing the problem. The grainline is your The quest for the well-fitting
guide. If the grainline is straight, you don’t have pulling of new postslearned
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 fabric.
the 
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The thing that seems to be (sort of) missing in the grain
line studios list is how to make room for a larger Drafting my orange ramie
Follow
“derriere”. You can see in the pictures above how the dress (a FREE pattern)
center back seam is pulling up. What you will also notice,
if you have this issue, that the trousers don’t “feel right”. that you should recognize
Sewing Bras:
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They slide down and wrinkles are formed at the side - $24.99 with your fingertips!
seams since the fabric is pulling towards the center back. Make the most supportive,
If you crouch down the crotch moves forward in an 1080p
awkward way and the trousers slide down from the back. owned. Get step-by-step guidance
For me the low butt adjustment doesn’t really fix the for sewing bras with a flawless fit.
issue. What I do instead is what my sewing teacher
Michele calls “scooping out the back”: 00:00 00:59
Katja's sewing
tip:
Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
of the basting
stitches.
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sometimes, when you
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that you
Sewing Bras: should recognize
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1080p
00:00 00:59
I think the image above is quite self-explanatory. The

Katja's sewing
original pattern is black and the red line is the new center tip:
back line. Doing this will make room for your bum even
when it means that you are actually taking out fabric!
Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
However, as a result the hip circumference gets smaller of the basting
stitches.
so you will have to compensate by letting out the side

seams. After doing this you will really feel the difference!
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Reducing the back thigh looseness TOP POSTS & PAGES
This next trick is from Kenneth King and my sewing The Big List of Sewing
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sometimes, when you
Companies
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right. With dress pants that are wide you don’t do this sewing room
since the trousers should hang down from the buttocks. expressedElokuu-jacket
are my own. and a
Nowadays, however, most of the trousers are tight fitted matching skirt
and the extra fabric at the back of the thigh looks ugly.
So, what do you do with the extra fabric? How to get rid
own
of it? If you just take out the side seams the front tight
gets too tight and the side seams start pulling forward. A wool walking skirt
What you need to do is so called fish-eye adjustment.
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Learn

Unless you are a yoga master it is very hard to do the dress (a FREE pattern)
next thing by yourself. (I have managed it by twisting and
pinning and then fixing the pins properly after taking out 10 different types of fabric
that you
the trousers.) If you have friend that can help you, you FROM Construction
MY YOUTUBE & Fit
could use her/him now!
Form a vertical pleat that starts somewhere below your
1080p
bum and gets wider at the middle of your back thigh and owned. Get step-by-step guidance
finally tapers into nothing above your knee. This should for sewing bras with a flawless fit.
take out the extra fabric. (The pleat is just for
00:00 00:59
measurement purposes. There will be no weird pleats at
your final trousers!) Mark this pleat on your fabric or
pattern that you are using:
Katja's sewing
tip:
Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
of the basting
stitches.
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that
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00:00 00:59
The fish-eye pleat should be on the grainline. Now draw

Katja's sewing
horizontal guide lines and transfer each side of the fish tip:
eye pleat to the corresponding side seam. This means
that you are taking the excess fabric out only from the
Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
back piece. of the basting
stitches.
After doing this adjustment the excess fabric at the back

of your thigh is gone!
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Getting rid of small horizontal front creases TOP POSTS & PAGES
I would not bother with these in the toile stage. You can The Big List of Sewing
fix these in the final pair by curving the top edge of the Pattern Companies
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Finishing the sloper expressedElokuu-jacket

are my own. and a
matching skirt
Ok. Now you have a trouser pattern that fits. Now take a
permanent pen and mark the seam and dart why you should make your
positions. Determine where you want the upper edge of own
your trousers to be and mark the waistline on your toile.
Add the seam allowance, too. You can also mark the
preferred length of your trousers. In practice, it’s always
Introducing:
best to add a bit extra length to any pair of trousers you
Skirt Calculator
are making. It is easy to chop of of after you have tried Enter your email address to follow
the trousers on with the shoes you are planning to wear The quest for the well-fitting
with them. new postslearned
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Now you can take your toile apart and use it as your Bullet Journal for Sewing
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pattern!

Facings and the waistband 10 different types of fabric
that
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Trace the top edge from your toile to make the facings. It
you are making a side zipper trousers it’s best to cut the
facings on fold, so you need to leave out the seam 1080p
allowances from the centre front and back. Join the dart
edges together along the dart lines when you are tracing
the pattern for the back facing.
00:00 00:59
If you want to have a proper waistband, you can use the
pattern for the facings to make it. Just remove the
amount of facing from the top of of your trouser pattern
and replace that with your facing. Be careful with the Katja's sewing
seam allowances! tip:
Baste with a 
Creasing – why it matters
contrasting thread
for easy removal
of the basting
stitches.
I think many of us have forgot everything about creasing

because we tend to wear jeans so much. The dress
pants need creasing in order to look sharp. The creases MY AFFILIATES
make especially the back part of the trousers fall nicely TOP POSTS & PAGES
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Just a trick I read about on a tailoring site that works for this website. All the opinions
wool. Use damp press cloth and iron and stretch the expressedElokuu-jacket
are my own. and a
middle part of the fabric of the front piece from the knee matching skirt
down while you press. After the iron work the center line
of the trousers should be about 6 mm longer than the why you should make your
sides. Straighten the bottom edge by cutting out the own
extra. Now you have pre-stretched the fabric so that it A wool walking skirt
shouldn’t stretch so much in use!
My next goals
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My quest for well fitting trousers hasn’t ended here. Now The quest for the well-fitting
that I have a trouser pattern that fits I will use it to make trousers - what I have
new postslearned
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different

kinds of trousers from narrow modern fitting 
trousers to jeans. I will also add different pockets and Bullet Journal for Sewing
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pleats and experiment with details. I can combine my
sloper with commercial patterns to be able to add Follow Drafting my orange ramie
different designs without compromising the fit. dress (a FREE pattern)
Follow my blog to see my progress and join me with this 10 different types of fabric
that
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MY YOUTUBE & Fit
quest! In the next post I will show you my changes to the
sloper to make a narrower pair of trousers.
Please comment below and tell me if this post helped you 1080p
and share it with your friends on social media! owned. Get step-by-step guidance
Happy sewing!
00:00 00:59
Katja
Katja's sewing
tip:
Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
of the basting
stitches.
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pants pattern fitting tailoring trousers

By kk dress (a FREE pattern)

that
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1080p
KK for sewing bras with a flawless fit.
I am a mother of two. I sew, knit and create and blog

00:00 00:59
about it.
Katja's sewing
YOU MAY ALSO LIKE tip:
Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
of the basting
stitches.
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Donna Karan top and Lekala 4696 dress review 10 Sewing Tricks That This website uses affiliate links. This
June 27, 2019 The Big List of Sewing
floral capris You Didn’t Know means that sometimes, when you
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July 14, 2017 October 14, 2017
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7 COMMENTS expressedElokuu-jacket
are my own. and a
matching skirt
KRIS REPLY Your Unique Dressform and

NOVEMBER 29, 2017 AT 11:06 PM why you should make your
own
Wow, what a great, detailed post! The right
inseam of every close-fitting pant pulls to the
front on me, and I guess I must need more
room for my right quad based on what I Introducing:
Skirt Calculator
learned here. And thanks for specifying that
you do not actually sew the fish eye dart. The quest for the well-fitting
For the longest time I thought there were trousers - what I have
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 sewists walking around with odd darts under 
their bums! Bullet Journal for Sewing
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KK REPLY that
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NOVEMBER 29, 2017 AT 11:28 PM - $24.99 with your fingertips!
So glad you find it useful! Yeah, I
1080p
thought along the same lines, so I
wanted to specify. If you make the
correction and get the inseam to work
better, tell me! I’d be interested in
00:00 00:59
knowing how it worked out!
Katja's sewing
tip:
Baste with a
contrasting thread

for easy removal
of the basting
stitches.
Ad Xeno Tailoring - Alteration
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PINGBACK: This website uses affiliate links. This
NOVEMBER 30, 2017 AT 12:30 PM The Big List of Sewing
Pattern Companies
From wide trousers to narrow stretch ones - pattern click a link, I earn a small
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are my own. and a
matching skirt
LISA EMERY REPLY
NOVEMBER 30, 2017 AT 8:58 PM
own
Thank you for taking the tome to share your
findings! I am a 57 year old sewing A wool walking skirt
professional, and made my first pants in 6th
grade ( two pairs of striped, bell bottomed, Introducing: the Pleated
hip huggers! ). I am still learning how to fit Skirt Calculator
my own pants. I don’t have the same figure
as back when I was 10 so it gets harder all trousers - what I have
the time. I actually absorbed a little new info. learned
 
My best pair, which is very comfortable, are Bullet Journal for Sewing
made from a copied “pretty good fit” pair. As
long as I can manage to not see my back
Drafting my orange ramie
view they are wonderful. I am in the process dress (a FREE pattern)
of tweaking the seat on the pattern to try to
achieve a more flattering look in the back.( I 10 different types of fabric
that you
Construction & Fit
have to think of what others have to look at!) with your fingertips!
- $24.99
I had purchased a Fit For Art pattern but
decided that this copied pattern is just SO
CLOSE! Thanks for the encouragement and
tips.
KK REPLY
NOVEMBER 30, 2017 AT 10:24 PM
Thank you! I know the problem of 

changing figure! I used to have a
pretty well fitting trouser pattern
(although to be honest I did not know

as much about the fit back then).
Then I gained weight and was
frustrated since it didn’t fit anymore. TOP POSTS & PAGES
Good luck with your fitting project! It The Big List of Sewing
surely takes time and patience and a Pattern Companies
lot of spare fabric. I have made
Ironing board cart for your
numerous attempts where I ditched sewing room
the toiling stage too early and my
trousers had to go straight to the bin Elokuu-jacket and a
matching skirt
since they were too small. Now that I
bought a whole bolt of cheap Ikea Your Unique Dressform and
cotton I find it easier to make toiles why you should make your
own
since I always have cheap fabric
available. A wool walking skirt
Introducing: the Pleated

Skirt Calculator

LIZ REPLY trousers - what I have
FEBRUARY 16, 2018 AT 11:02 AM learned
 
This is so brilliant. I have tried for years with Bullet Journal for Sewing
hit-and-miss adjustments to patterns, but the
fish-eye adjustment is the only one that Drafting my orange ramie
works if you have thin thighs. Thank you so dress (a FREE pattern)
much Katja!
that you should recognize
with your fingertips!
PINGBACK:
SEPTEMBER 6, 2018 AT 8:49 PM
Alpi trousers and a refashioned blouse à la Indiana Jones

> with my hands - Dream
LEAV E A REPLY

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Pattern Companies
Ironing board cart for your

sewing room
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Elokuu-jacket and a
matching skirt

own
Introducing: the Pleated

Skirt Calculator

learned
 
Drafting my orange ramie


that you should recognize
with your fingertips!

The Quest For The Well-Fitting Trousers - What I Have Learned

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12/26/2019 The quest for the well-fitting trousers - what I have learned > with my hands - Dream

HOME SHOP MY PROJECTS SEWING  TUTORIAL

Your Unique Dressform and

A wool walking skirt

Follow Drafting my orange ramie

10 different types of fabric

– what I have learned 00:00 00:59

November 29, 2017 / 7 Comments

of trousers and I think I have finally succeeded. Now I

I made a blog post about trying to get them to fit. Introducing:

10 different types of fabric

that this kind of loose fitting pants would be a

Your Unique Dressform and

A wool walking skirt

These were a leggings pattern. Unfortunately I

Follow Drafting my orange ramie

10 different types of fabric

amount of work. I threw my toile away since I

HOME SHOP MY PROJECTS SEWING  TUTORIAL

Your Unique Dressform and

HOME SHOP MY PROJECTS SEWING  TUTORIAL

Your Unique Dressform and

Follow Drafting my orange ramie

10 different types of fabric

Your Unique Dressform and

A wool walking skirt

Follow Drafting my orange ramie

10 different types of fabric

Forget the waistband since that can be added later. You

Toiling, toiling, toiling… HOME SHOP MY PROJECTS SEWING  TUTORIAL

Make your toile out of cheap fabric that has MY AFFILIATES

The importance of grain Your Unique Dressform and

HOME SHOP MY PROJECTS SEWING  TUTORIAL

Now, look at the grainline. It should be completely

needs more fabric. Look at the image above. You can

HOME SHOP MY PROJECTS SEWING  TUTORIAL

Your Unique Dressform and

A wool walking skirt

Follow Drafting my orange ramie

10 different types of fabric

I think the image above is quite self-explanatory. The

so you will have to compensate by letting out the side

Follow Drafting my orange ramie

HOME SHOP MY PROJECTS SEWING  TUTORIAL

Your Unique Dressform and

A wool walking skirt

Follow Drafting my orange ramie

10 different types of fabric

The fish-eye pleat should be on the grainline. Now draw

After doing this adjustment the excess fabric at the back

Finishing the sloper expressedElokuu-jacket

Follow Drafting my orange ramie

I think many of us have forgot everything about creasing

HOME SHOP MY PROJECTS SEWING  TUTORIAL

Your Unique Dressform and

Tweet Save 1K+ Share 0  Email

Follow Drafting my orange ramie

10 different types of fabric

I am a mother of two. I sew, knit and create and blog

HOME SHOP MY PROJECTS SEWING  TUTORIAL

KRIS REPLY Your Unique Dressform and

Follow Drafting my orange ramie

10 different types of fabric