Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Wet Shave Like A Professional Ebook PDF
Wet Shave Like A Professional Ebook PDF
This e-book is copyrighted. Except for the purposes of fair reviewing, no part of this publication may be
reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including
photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing
from the author. Infringers of copyright render themselves liable to prosecution.
Wet Shave Like A Professional– 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Return to Table of Content
Contents
One Week to a Wet Shave.................................................................................................................................................... 3
Switching to the Wet Shave: A Step-by-Step Guide ....................................................................................................... 3
Day 1: Get Educated ........................................................................................................................................................ 5
What's the Problem with Cartridge Razors?.............................................................................................................. 5
The Wet Shave Alternative - What's Involved? .......................................................................................................... 6
Further Reading .......................................................................................................................................................... 7
Day #2: Select and Purchase Your Razor ....................................................................................................................... 8
Razor Types: Double-Edged, Single Edged, and Straight .......................................................................................... 9
Gap Size and Adjustable vs. Set Gaps ......................................................................................................................... 9
Safety Bars vs. Combs................................................................................................................................................ 10
Other Issues ............................................................................................................................................................... 10
Razor Blades .............................................................................................................................................................. 11
Day #3: Pick Your Soaps and Creams ........................................................................................................................... 12
The Shaving Brush .................................................................................................................................................... 12
Shaving Soap and Cream ........................................................................................................................................... 13
Shaving Mugs ............................................................................................................................................................. 14
Other Shaving Products ............................................................................................................................................ 14
Day #4: Your First Wet Shave ....................................................................................................................................... 15
Step 1: Set Your Space Up.......................................................................................................................................... 15
Step 2: Wet Your Beard ............................................................................................................................................. 15
Step 3: Create Your Lather ........................................................................................................................................ 16
Step 4: Apply the Lather............................................................................................................................................ 16
Step 5: Shave .............................................................................................................................................................. 17
Step 6: Rinse .............................................................................................................................................................. 17
Day 5 (and Onward): Vary Your Shaving Technique ................................................................................................... 19
Vary the Skin and Hair Temperature ........................................................................................................................ 19
Vary Your Skin Treatments ....................................................................................................................................... 19
Wet Shave Like A Professional– 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Return to Table of Content
Wet Shave Like A Professional– 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Return to Table of Content
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 1
Return to Table of Content
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 2
Return to Table of Content
And the fact about shaving is this: you don't need the latest
in plastic cartridge technology to get a good shave with
minimal effort.
The same thing our fathers and our grandfathers did, before
disposable razor cartridges became widespread: the wet
shave.
There's quite a purist culture of wet shavers out there, and it can intimidate a man who's used canned foam and a
cartridge razor all his adult life.
Depending on where you go for your information, the specifics of razor types, soap types, blade types, and more
can get overwhelming.
The purpose of this guide is to take things one day at a time and get you from a cartridge shave to a wet shave in a
week -- without feeling frustrated.
You don't need to be an expert in 24 hours. You don't even need to be an expert in a week -- you just need to be a
guy who's comfortable shaving with lather and a single-bladed razor.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 3
Return to Table of Content
Once you've made the transition, there's a whole world of details and specifics out there that you can get as
invested in as you want.
But these basic steps will get any guy shaving comfortably, without having to devote his whole life to the skill.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 4
Return to Table of Content
The convenience part is probably true. There's no denying that spritzing on some gel or foam and running a
cartridge razor over your face a couple times is probably at least a little quicker than a wet shave with a safety
razor.
But the shave quality is pure hype -- you can get yourself baby-smooth with a basic single-bladed razor, and you can
get a terrible, patchy shave with lots of painful nicks using a cartridge razor.
Your technique and the frequency with which you change your blades have a lot more to do with your shave than
the number of blades you're using. And that brings us to the biggest problem with cartridge razors -- those little
bundles of extra blades are expensive.
For good shaves, you want to be changing your blades every week or so. Maybe stretch it to two weeks if you don't
shave every day, or if you've got high-quality blades, but in general -- every week. Less than that at the blade gets
dulled and nicked, and those rough spots will miss hairs (leaving stubble) and catch on your skin (leaving cuts).
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 5
Return to Table of Content
Single blades for safety razors cost maybe a buck a piece for the classy brands; less if you go bulk. Cartridges, on the
other hand, start about around $20 for a pack of four or six, and go upwards from there.
Do the math and you'll realize that you're talking a difference of literally hundreds of dollars each year.
And that -- along with the general cheapness of the product and the reliance on chemical gels and "soothing" strips
-- is the big problem with cartridge razors.
In a pinch, you can even do without the soap and brush (more
on that later).
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 6
Return to Table of Content
Further Reading
You don't need to know much more than that, but if you want to get into the whole wet shaving culture thing, it's
got a strong online presence that you can check out.
Sharpologist.com is a great shaving resource site, as is Shaving101.com. ClassicShaving.com is primarily a sales site,
but their how-to has a good beginner's guide as well (though nothing quite as detailed as this step-by-step guide).
For discussion forums, try BadgerAndBlade.com or TheShaveDen.com, or more general men's fashion and style
forums like AskAndyAboutClothes.com and ArtOfManliness.com.
Find sites you like and browse a bit, but don't get caught up trying to remember every detail from every article you
come across. Just know what resources are out there, so that you can come back to them if you have questions.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 7
Return to Table of Content
If you've done a lot of reading and you already know exactly what brand and model you want, good for you -- you're
ahead of the game, here.
Go ahead and order your razor. If you're using a site like Amazon, you can probably even have the shipping
expedited to truly make this a one-day task.
(Finding a good store in town that sells razors can also make it a one-day purchase -- as convenient as the internet
is, don't forget that brick-and-mortar is often quicker, and keeps the money local!)
But if you don't know the exact razor you want, you're going to need a couple hours and some information to figure
it out.
There are a couple major features that come in varying styles, and you want the one that's right for you.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 8
Return to Table of Content
That means you're using one flat razor blade, sharpened on both the long edges, screwed or clipped into a non-
disposable handle.
While cool and also a long-term cost-saver, straight razor shaving isn't what we're talking about here. For purposes
of the wet shave transition, you'll almost always want to go with a double-edged, single-bladed safety razor.
Gap Size and Adjustable vs. Set Gaps Click Here To Buy On Amazon
The "gap" of a safety razor is the amount of blade exposed beyond the cap-piece or safety bar (more on that in a
minute).
The more blade you have exposed, the "rougher" the shave. You have to work more carefully when the full width of
the sharpened section is exposed than when you're just working with the very edge of the blade.
Beginners generally want a razor with a small gap, or an adjustable razor. The latter are more expensive and harder
to find (there are only a few being made currently, plus some vintage options), but they have the advantage of
letting you experiment with different gap sizes without buying multiple razors.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 9
Return to Table of Content
The comb or open comb is a row of small teeth on either side of the head. The gaps in between the teeth help funnel
lathered hairs into small clusters for the razor to rim.
A safety bar razor works the opposite way -- it has a small, flat bar that sits below the blade. The bar moves along
the skin and pushes hairs into the blade, while separating the skin slightly from the cutting edge.
Both are effective. The open comb design can provide a slightly closer shave, but is generally considered harsher on
the skin. That said, the gap size (see the previous subsection) is a major factor here, so a safety razor with a large
gap may shave closer and more harshly than a comb razor with a small gap.
Other Issues
There are a few other minor concerns when selecting your razor. The actual raw material is a good one to keep in
mind -- you want a metal handle and head if at all possible. Stainless steel gives the razor enough weight that you
don't have to apply any pressure yourself when you're shaving, and keeps the razor from rusting in the humid air of
a bathroom as well.
Most safety razors these days are three-piece assemblies -- a handle, a baseplate that goes under the razor blade,
and a cap that goes over the razor blade. There are also two-piece razors where the handle and baseplate are fused,
and even a few one-piece razors that snap open for you to place the blade inside, and then snap closed over the
blade for use.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 10
Return to Table of Content
There's no real advantage to one over the other (although one-piece safety razors have more moving parts that can
wear out or break, and as a result aren't made much anymore -- they were sort of the hot new gimmick just before
cartridge razors hit the scene).
Finally, there's the question of whether to buy new or vintage. Most vintage razors still take the same size of blade
as modern razors, so that's rarely a concern. So long as the razor is solid, has substantial weight to it, and isn't made
of something that can crack or chip easily when it ages (like a wood handle, which will swell and split over the
years), vintage is usually just as functional as buying new. It's a matter of taste more than anything.
Razor Blades
When you buy your new razor, you'll also need to grab some blades for it.
Luckily, the blades are cheap and easy to find. That was one of the big reasons to make the switch, remember?
Stainless steel is your basic material here. Some will come "plated" with rust- or wear-resistant metals like titanium
and platinum, but the coating in question is usually so thin that you won't notice much practical difference.
Experiment with a couple brands and see if you notice any difference. Packs are so cheap there's no real reason not
to pick up three or four brands at a time and try them. Some fancier shaving-goods stores and websites will even
sell mixed sampler packs, but it's easy enough to buy a five-pack from a couple different brands at most drugstores.
Plan on changing blades about once every week or two weeks. You can do it more often than that if you're really
obsessive, or stretch it a little longer if you're not a daily shaver, but between one and two weeks per blade is the
ballpark.
As soon as you feel any tugging or resistance, or have to apply pressure or go back over rough spots, it's time to
change the blade.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 11
Return to Table of Content
The razor selection is important -- maybe the most important part of getting yourself set up. It's certainly the
purchase that will last you the longest.
But finding the product and method of lathering your face that suits you best is equally important in terms of
making you like your shaving experience. If the soap is harsh or you don't care for your brush, you're never going to
stick with wet shaving.
Your basic equipment here is soap and a brush. Here are a few more specifics to break it all down for you:
A good brush needs to be soft (for your skin's sake) and capable of
holding water (to keep the lather smooth). The best (and most expensive)
are made from badger hair, with boar's hair or a badger/boar mix as a
cheaper and more common alternative. Synthetic bristles are usually
made from nylon, and are the cheapest option available.
Unless you're a professional barber, you probably don't need to worry too
much about the grades of badger hair (but if you're curious, they're
grouped from coarsest to finest: pure badger, best badger, super badger,
and at the top of the heap silvertip badger).
There's nothing wrong with starting out with a synthetic or boar's bristle
brush. They won't last as long, and tend to become brittle at the tips over Click Here To Buy On Amazon
time, but you should still get a couple good years' use out of them.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 12
Return to Table of Content
Shaving soap comes in a hard cake, usually a circular puck, which is placed in the bottom of a mug, bowl, or
"scuttle." A wet brush is swirled on the top of the cake until lather builds up, which is then dabbed onto the beard
with the same brush.
Shaving cream, in contrast, comes in a semi-liquid form contained in a tin. The brush is dipped in the cream, which
is then dabbed directly onto the face, with none of the swirling used with soap.
Of the two, creams are faster to use, and easier on the wrists -- there's no "whisking" to build a lather -- but they
tend to be stickier and oilier, and often contain synthetic chemicals that can irritate sensitive skins.
Soaps, while requiring a little extra effort, create an ideal lather (once you get the right amount of water down), can
be made from just a few natural ingredients, and last considerably longer. They're also cheaper -- a $5 soap cake
could last you the better part of a year, while you're likely to go through a $20 tin of shaving cream in a month or
two.
It may take a couple tries to find something that gives you the lather you like. Start with a simple soap cake and go
from there. If you have sensitive skin, a glycerin soap may be easier on it, and you'll want to avoid anything with
chemical additives.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 13
Return to Table of Content
Shaving Mugs
There are countless shaving mugs, bowls, and scuttles out there, and the difference between them is mostly
aesthetic. As long as you've got something large enough to contain the soap cake and an inch or two of lather
spread up the sides, you're in good shape.
An old coffee mug will do if you want to save some money. If you buy something shaving-specific, expect to pay
anywhere from $20 on up to $100 or more, depending on the materials.
It's up to you whether you want to use these or not. The lotions and aftershave make for a slightly more luxurious
experience, which some men like, but you can get by just fine without them unless your skin is particularly
sensitive.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 14
Return to Table of Content
Today it's time to put the ones you picked out to use.
(Assuming they've arrived. If you're stuck waiting on
delivery, you might have to put your shaving plans on hold for
a day or two here. Maybe go read some blogs or join
discussion forums to keep the idea fresh in your mind!)
But assuming you've got all the supplies, it's time to tackle
the first shave, step by step.
You'll want the mug with the soap in it on the sink, or somewhere else easily accessible. The less chance of
knocking it off an edge the better, especially if you're using a porcelain mug.
You'll also need either a sink you can plug or a small basin of water to rinse your razor. A running tap will do in a
pinch, as will wiping it on a cloth, but the easiest and best way to clean the razor as you go is to swirl it in some
standing water.
Lay everything out for your shave ahead of time: the razor, the mug with soap in it, the brush, and any lotions or
topical treatments you plan to apply before or after the shave.
If you don't have the time to shower before your shave, or you prefer not to, a cloth soaked in warm water can be
laid over the beard and left there for three or four minutes to soften the hairs.
A pre-shave lotion can also help prep your beard for a shave if you don't have warm water available.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 15
Return to Table of Content
Once you've got the brush wet, lay the tips of the
bristles against the top of the soap cake and start
whisking it around in little circles.
A good lather will be a thick, smooth foam. There should be plenty of air and water in there (sort of like beaten
eggs), not just soap. If it's sticky to the touch, or thick and smeary like toothpaste, add more water. If it's runny and
drips off the brush, dump a little water out, shake the brush off, and beat the lather some more.
Give a quick shake to get rid of any big clumps, and, using the tip of the brush, start to dab the lather onto your
beard.
The goal here is to coat your hairs without mashing them down against the skin, and without piling on so much
lather that it hides everything completely.
You'll ideally end up with a nice, even coat of lather, with the tips of the hairs visible through it. If it takes a couple
tries to get it right, don't be afraid to wash everything off with a wet washcloth and start over.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 16
Return to Table of Content
Step 5: Shave
The moment of truth -- pick up your razor and go to.
Shaving with a good lather should be smooth and easy. Place the razor at
the top of the space you want to shave and move it gently downward. Resist
the temptation to press it against your skin! If the blade is sharp, the weight
of the head should be enough to shear through your hairs without you
applying pressure.
Try to keep your shaving only to lathered skin. If a stroke removes all the
lather but leaves stubble, dab a bit more on before going back over the area.
Rinse the razor in a sink or mug filled with water in between strokes. You
can switch between the two sharp edges to extend the lifespan of the blade
a little longer, or you can mark the razor and use one side until it dulls and
then switch to the other -- both techniques work fine.
Everyone's routine will be a little different, but always shave with the grain
of your hairs -- in the direction they're growing, not against it -- and use
your free hand to tug the skin taut where you want a particularly close shave. (Use even less pressure when you do
so, however. Taut skin nicks very easily.)
Use the most care underneath the chin, down near the Adam's apple. This is the most fragile part of the neck, and
the part where most shavers nick themselves. Treat your razor with respect -- it's a heavy piece of metal with an
incredibly sharp edge!
Step 6: Rinse
Once you've shaved to your satisfaction, rinse your face with clean, cold
water (not with the water you've been rinsing your razor in).
Cold (or at least cool) water will help tighten the skin up and close the
pores, which helps prevent infections and razor burn. Make sure you've
washed off all the lather and stray hairs, as those are the most likely
things to cause irritation if they stay on the skin.
Use an alum block or styptic stick to dab any cuts, if you were
unfortunate enough to acquire them, and pat everything dry with a soft
cloth.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 17
Return to Table of Content
That's all there is to it -- you're done with your first wet shave. Hopefully it didn't go too badly!
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 18
Return to Table of Content
Some men prefer to splash cold water on their face before lathering up, or even to avoid using any water on the hair
at all before applying the lather. It all depends on the natural hardness of their hairs -- if yours are already soft and
silky, getting them warm and wet may make them lie too flat to trim easily.
If you're having trouble with the razor gliding over hairs and leaving them uncut, try applying a cool lather directly
to the dry hairs. If that's too harsh, soak them with cold water first.
Find the technique that gets a good shave, but doesn't have your skin feeling tugged at when the razor passes
through the hairs.
There's no real way to tell what works best for you except trial and error.
Look around for some trial-sized lotions and aftershaves, and give them a try. If you find something you really like,
stick with it.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 19
Return to Table of Content
It may be important to try lotions out if you're having irritation problems. Keep the skin moisturized, and if you're
feeling dry and itchy, avoid astringent, alcohol-based aftershaves.
It's the most expensive fix, so try other solutions first. But if you
seem to be nicking yourself constantly, and you just can't stop,
consider trying a different razor.
Look to change some of the factors that affect how the blade moves
across your skin: the weight of the head, the blade gap, and the
style of comb or safety bar used. It's worth the investment to get
something that works right for you.
What seems like a lot of information on paper boils down to a very small, simple routine in your daily life.
Once you've got the right tools, getting a good shave every day is just a matter of whipping your lather up and
treating your face with care. Pretty soon it'll be almost as fast as using cartridges and canned foam -- and a whole
lot better for your skin and your wallet.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 20
Return to Table of Content
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 21
Return to Table of Content
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 22
Return to Table of Content
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 23
Return to Table of Content
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 1st Edition 2016 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Page 24