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the food

Authentic of from
Recipes
• -
s1nSINGAPORE
- ore
63 Simple and Delicious Recipes
from the Tropical Island City-state

Recipes by David Wong and Djoko Wibisono


Introduction by Lee Geok Boi
Photographs by Luca Invernizzi Tettoni

by David Wong and Ojoko Wibisono


photos by Luca lnvernizzi Tettoni
introduction by Lee Geok Boi

PER l PLUS
Published
PubliShed by Penplus Ed•tiOOS.
by Periplus wtth ed•tonal
Editions, with editorial at
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Copynght ~ 2005
Email: Penplus Ed1t1ons (HK) Ltd
inquiries@periplus.com.sg
All nghts reserved
Website: www.periplus.com
Paperback ISBN 978-0-7946-0502·5
Hardcover ISBN 978-0-7946-0520-9
Copyright © 2005 Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.
Allpublished
PreVIOUsly as The AuthentiC Rec1pes from Smgapore
rights reserved.
ISBN 0-7946-0229-0 pb
ISBN: 978-1-4629-0546-1 (ebook)
ISBN 0-7946-0295-9 he

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All rec1pes were tested m the Penplus Test K1tchen
Email: inquiries@periplus.com.sg
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Photo credits All photography by Luca 1nvern1zz1
Tetton1 except pages 7. 11. 18, t1 2 and endpaper by
AllHo
recipes were tested
Illustration on pagein the Periplus
t1 by Dan1el Test Kitchen.
Wegera.
Edmund
Styling and food preparat1on: pages 32. 41 , 58. 61. 91 ,
94 andPhoto
101 bycredits:
Mrs Ong AllK1at
photography by Luca Ong
K1m and Chnst1na Invernizzi
Tettoni except pages 7, 11, 18, 112 and endpaper by
Acknowledgments The publiSher
Edmund Ho. Illustration and Beaufort
on page 11 by Daniel Wegera.
Sentosa would like to thank the folloWing for
Styling and food preparation: pages 41, gen-
32,the~r 58, 61, 91,
Mrs Ongtableware.
94 and 1011nbyprOVIding
erous ass1stance furn1ture
Kiat Kim and andOng.
Christina
other decoratwe nems for use 1n th1s book Abraxas.
Blue Moon. Thethe
Tang's Stud•o and
Acknowledgments: publisher Thanks
Atelier and also
Beaufort
to the follOWing like tofor
restaurants
Sentosa would thank kind
theirthe cooperation
following in
for their
arrang1ng locat1on
generous photography
assistance Hua Yu Wee
in providing Seafood
tableware, furniture
Restaurant. Komala
and other Villas, Muthu's
decorative items for use Restaurant,
Curry in this book:
Abraxas; Az1za's
Alkali Mans1on. Restaurant,
Blue Moon; Ta1 Thong
Tang’s Studio and the Atelier.
Restaurant andalso
Thanks l.J Sal Restaurant
to the following restaurants for their kind
cooperation in arranging location photography: Hua
10Wee
12 11 Yu 09 Seafood Restaurant, Komala Villas, Muthu’s
(pb) 6Curry 3 2
5 4 Restaurant, Alkaff Mansion, Aziza’s Restaurant,
(he) 6 5 4 3 2
Tai Thong Restaurant and Li Bai Restaurant.

Pnnted 1n S1ngapore
Contents

Food in Singapore 5 Seafood Vegetables and Salads


Eating Singapore Style 8 S1ngapore Ch1lh Crab 62 Bean Sprouts w1th Salted Fish 101
Etiquette and Enjoyment 10 Black Pepper Crab or Crayf1sh 62 Kangkung Belachan 101
The Kopitiam Tradition 11 Teochew Steamed Fish 64 Mild Potato Curry w1th Yogurt 102
Chinese Food in Singapore 12 Oyster Omelette 64 Eggplant Masala 102
Malay and Indian Food 15 Fish Head Curry 66
The Best Show in Town 18 Barbecued St1ngray 68 Desserts
The Singapore Kitchen 21 Deep-fried Baby Squid 71 Trop1cal Fru1ts 1n Steamed Coconut
Authentic Singapore Ingredients 22 Fned Fish w1th Spicy Prawn Custard 105
Sambal 71 Coconut Mango Pudding
Sambals, Achars and Condiments Golden Prawns with Sweet Sp1cy Chilled Almond Jelly with Lychees or
Dried Prawn Sambal 29 Sauce 73 Longans 106
Sambal Belachan 30 Coconut Ginger Prawns with Sweet Red Beans w1th Coconut
Flour Crisps 30 Lemongrass Curry 73 Cream 106
Salay Sauce 30 Tandoori Baked Fish 75 Gula Melaka 109
Pineapple Salay Sauce 30 Cucumber Raila 75 Sago w1th Honeydew and Coconut
Achar Kumng 31 Yu Sheng 76 Milk 109
Chilli Ginger Sauce 31 Steamed Fish with V1negar Soy
Crispy Fned Shallots 31 Dress1ng 78 Measurements and conversions 110
Lonlong 31 Tea-smoked F1sh Fillets 79 Index of recipes 111

Rice and Noodles Meat and Poultry


Classic Ha1nanese Chicken Rice 32 Claypot R1ce 80
Laksa Noodle Soup 34 Sweet Pork Ribs Wrapped in Fragrant
Fried Beehoon 37 Pandanus Leaves 83
Fried Kway Teow 37 Indian Mutton Soup 85
Classic Hokkien Mee 38 Chicken m Coconut Curry 87
Mee Siam 41 Duck Braised 1n Fragrant Soy 88
Prawn Noodle Soup 42 Bak Kut Teh 89
Soto Ayam 44 Ayam Panggang 91
Indian Mee Goreng 46 Buntut Asam Pedas 93
Lontong Sayur Lemak 48 Indian Mutton Curry 94
Special Nonya Fried R1ce 50 Roast Duck and Rock Melon 95
Stuffed Yam Croquettes 96
Appetisers and Snacks Ch1cken Braised 1n Soy 99
Honey Barbecued Chicken W1ngs 50
Popiah 52
Pork Salay with Pineapple Sauce 54
Malay Chicken Salay 55
FrUit and Vegetable Rojak 57
Tauhu Goreng 58
Murtabak 61
Food in Singapore
A tropical metropolis with a voracious appetite

Situated at the tip of the Asian matnland, Stngapore IS an Money can buy you everything
island nation that appears as but a tmy speck on the world Thanks to 1ts tocatton-Just over 1 degree or about 140
map. From humble begtnntngs as a small flshtng settlement ktlometres (1 00 miles) north of the equator-Singapore is
200 ago, 11 grew into an tmportant Bnllsh colontal entrep6t humid and steamy all year round. Tropical ratns frequently
tn the last century And stnce becomtng mdependent 1n bnng freshness dunng the afternoons, and 1n contrast wtth
1965, Stngapore has become one of Asia's most dynamic the usually hot days, nights are balmy and the early morn-
and modern cilles wtlh a GNP that nvals that of many larg- tngs cool
er nattons. Dense equatonal ratnforests and a few low htlls whtch
Skyscrapers, expressways and atr-condtltoned shopptng once shaped the landscape have long gtven way to an
centres crammed wtth luxury goods from around the world equally dense cover of high-nse office blocks. shopptng
replace the more tradtttonal Astan vtstas of paddy ftelds and complexes. condomtntums and public houstng. Now the
palm-fnnged beaches. Stngapore's htghly regulated system troptcal humtdity and heat are kept at bay by atr-condthon-
of government has produced the ultimate consumer para- .ng, and the steel and concrete htgh-rise Jungle IS softened
dtse-a c1ty whtch might, at ftrst, seem lacktng 1n passton by numerous trees and small parks, whtch have earned
and Individuality. But when 11 comes to the subject of food Stngapore the sobnquet ..Garden City". Busy htghways are
Stngaporeans reveal thetr true tdentlty- for food is. qutte divtded by tall trees and flowering shrubs
simply, the na!lonat obsesston Amtdst all this greenery, you would be hard put to ftnd
This is a country where food IS a constant topic of con- a farm. unless tt's the tndoor hydroponiC vanety or the few
versation and no meal IS complete wtthout an extended d•s- bouttque organ1c farms. Stngapore has grown almost none
cusston about the food betng eaten or a recently enJoyed of •ts food for decades, prefernng · to devote scarce land
meal. Eattng out IS, for many, a datly roullne and lhts habtl has to tndustry and hous.ng for tiS populatton of JUSt over four
virtually created a national identity defined by the cuisine- million people.
especially the multt·ethnic fare served 1n unpretenttous However, money can buy you everylhing, and situated
restaurants and hawker centres throughout the island. Here at the hub of a reg ton that •s still largely agncultural,
the food is prepared by self-employed chefs-often atded Singapore imports its food and even tiS water from netgh-
by famtly members-who once operated from temporary bours to the north and south. Since Southeast Asian
stalls along the roadstde but have now been gtven perma- markets do not carry all the produce and fine foods to
nent locahons in food centres or upmarket atr-condthoned whtch affluent. globe-trotttng Stngaporeans have become
food courts accustomed, tis excellent atr and sea connecttons bnng 1n
Few Stngaporeans gtve much thought to the ongtns of the best from around the world
what they are ealtng 1n thts mul!l-ractal soctety-what mat- Wtlh produce now atr-flown from everywhere, the tsland
ters IS the flavour Typtcal Smgapore food 1s actually a also marks the passage of the seasons around the world
blend of many elements brought by the dtfferent tmmtgrant The That and lndtan mango season 1n Apnl and May ftnds
groups who have settled here. Otnner could be Chmese- frUit shops here well-stocked wtth lusctous and cheap man-
style soup and vegetables combtned wtlh a Malay chicken goes. If it's summer and cherries abound in Caltfornta, they
curry. Breakfast could be cereal and mtlk or Indian dosa1 do too in Stngapore. Is 11 the season of the hunt already?
with dhal. Even the methods of eattng a meal are multt-cul- Then premier restaurants around town wtll soon have
tural. One person sit!lng at a table may eat his nee wtth fork game on the menu. And everyone knows when durians are
and spoon, and another wtth chops!lcks, whtle a thtrd per- 1n season. The pungent smell. fragrant or awful dependtng
son may use his fingers on how you feel about this thorny frutl, makes it hard to
Singapore food is always accompanted by powerful tgnore. Garbage collectors certatnly cannot tgnore literally
sensations: garlic and shallots sizzling 1n a hot wok, sttcks tons of thorny shells dtscarded daily.
of satay grilling over an open flame. belachan (dned prawn Although seasonal foods mark the passage of spnng,
paste) roasted before grindtng, drops of ghee danctng on summer, autumn and wmter in dtfferent parts of the world,
a hot griddle. These are some of the smells that tngger few foods are ever out of season m Stngapore, stnce
memones of home for Singaporeans, descendants of
migrants who brought with them rich food tradittons from A OycJOI e age I elegant J r r g s recap1 ,red at UJe h top Alkali
all over Asta. There IS 1n Stngaporeans a spint of adventure MJr s.on reslaurar 1 torrnelly owned tJy 01 e olltJe weallt~esl Alab larru es
when it comes to food. 'n ')jogapo•e and now a posn <l r nq vert..E' \' tr a \ E'W

Food 1n S1ngapore 5
seasonal produce IS flown 1n from countnes both north and chtlled catches 1n S1ngapore. the more expens1ve seafood
south of the equator such as sash1m1-quallty fish, huge meaty crabs lobsters
Abundance does lead to a Jaded palate These days and other shellfiSh come 1n by a1r from as far away as
w1th the average S1ngaporean becom1ng more and more Japan, Sn Lanka. France and Australia
well-travelled and well-versed 1n exot1c cu1s1nes from all The abundance of quality produce g1ves creattve cooks
over, food 1mporters have to work extra hard look1ng for plenty to work With The mult1-ethn1c population 1n S1ngapore
new and 1nterest1ng products to tempt bored are not only sources of culinary 1nsp1ra11on but also av1d
S1ngaporeans The list of countnes wh1ch supply S1ngapore supporters of the country's food Industry
w1th food products IS groWing constantly as buyers wander Creative restaurant chefs on the look-out for someth1ng
farther afield new to exc1te the palates of S1ngaporeans are increas1ngly
However, not everything consumed 1n S1ngapore 1s expenmentlng w1th new 1ngred1ents and new styles Starttng
1mported The country does have a tiny group of farmers, w1th a culinary hentage based on some of As1a's greatest
some of whom grow leafy vegetables and frUits, wh1le a cu1S1nes- Ch1nese. lnd1an. Malay and lndonestan-they bor-
few h1gh-tech farmers cult1vate the1r produce 1n mu1t1-stoned row from other As1an neighbours, expenment w1th Western
factones. grow1ng vegetables hydropon1cally-w1thout so1l, 1ngred1ents and styles. m1x something from here w1th some-
1n trays of nutnent ·nch water and mushrooms 1n sawdust. thing from there. L1ke everyth1ng else 1n S1ngapore. food 1s
Both manne and freshwater f1sh, prawns and oysters deftn1tely on the move.
are also farmed locally F1sh farmers have to work hard to
keep up w1th the vorac1ous demand for live seafood 1n
restaurants Be1ng an ISland once 1nhab1ted by fishermen, 11
IS no surpnse that seafood IS a popular and much loved
tlem 1n the S1ngaporean d1et Seafood also escapes most
rellg1ous stnctures- Mushms do not eat pork Hindus and
stnct BuddhiSts avotd beef and many Ch1nese find the taste
of lamb and mutton a tr1fle strong
Wh1le much of the da1ly demand for seafood 1s met by
fishermen of the reg1on, whose hshtng boats unload the1r
Eating Singapore Style
The search for culinary excitement continues

When Stamford Raffles, the Bntlsh founder of modern S1ngapore was perhaps the most cosmopolitan City 1n As1a
S1ngapore declared the little flshmg v1llage and occas1onat These m1grants all arnved. by and large from places Wlth
p•rates' den a free port 1n 1819 he drew swarms of m1grants long-established culinary trad1t1ons Now began the process
1n search of econom1c opportunities The Ch•nese. espe- of blend1ng that has produced some of Smgapore s most
Cially from the southern coastal provmces of Fur•an and 1nterestmg d1shes
Swatow arnved by the boatload, follow1ng other Ch1nese The hybnd1sat1on began the day a Malay g1rl marned a
who came to Smgapore from settlements 1n nearby Java, Ch1nese man to form the f1rst of the Stra1ts or Peranakan
Malacca and Borneo The lnd1an commumty began w1th a Ch1nese fam•lies Not all babas (Peranakan men) and nonyas
small contingent of lnd1an sold1ers 1n the Bntlsh army Not (Peranakan women) had a Malay ancestor. but they were
long after be1ng declared a free port. S1ngapore was desig- d1sl1ngu•shed from the more recently arnved Chinese by
nated an lnd1an penal stat1on and conv1cts were sent here the Malay dress of the womenfolk and by the1r cu1s1ne
to work on public bu1ldmgs Bn!ISh labour policy also Stra•ts Ch1nese or Nonya cu1sine comb1ned the Ch1nese
brought 1n droves of Tam1ls from South lnd1a as Indentured affection for pork. proh1b1ted to Muslim Malays. w1th Malay
labour for public works proJects 1ngred1ents. such as coconut m1lk, fragrant roots and herbs.
The •stand's small Malay populat•on swelled w1th newly ch1ll1es and dned sp1ces for character Certa1n Chmese
arnved Javanese Sumatrans, Boyanese from Madura and d1shes. such as bra1sed pork, were not 1gnored. but took
other lndones•an •slanders as well as Malays and Stra1ts on a local overtone w1th the add1t1on of lemongrass and
Ch1nese from Malaya Arabs and Jews came from the galangal and many a bland Ch1nese d1sh was given a shot
M1ddle East . there was a fa1rly large commun1ty of of pungent Samba! Belachan a salty. sp1cy cond1ment of
Atmen1ans and of c0urse, a strong enclave of Bntons who belachan (dned prawn paste) and ch1ll1es Another commu-
adm•mstered the colony By the end of the 19th century nity the Euras1ans-from the 1ntermamage of Europeans and
As1ans-atso developed a hybnd cu1s1ne that shares much
Wllh Stra1ts Ch1nese CUISine but does not forget 1ts European
roots m 1ts focus on roasts steaks and chops seasoned
w1th soy sauce and eaten w1th Samba! Betachan or ch1ll1
sauce Ne1ther does the commun1ty forget 1ts lnd1an roots
1n certa1n d•shes such as Vmdaloo. a pork curry tarted up
w1th v1negar. and Devll's Curry wh1ch. as 1ts name Implies.
can set your tongue on f1re
Even w1thout 1ntermarnage, 11 IS not poss1ble to live cheek
by JOWl w1th someone of another ethn1c commun1ty Without
p1ck1ng up new food 1deas Perhaps surpns1ngty, the Bnllsh.
not noted for the1r CUISine. were also sources of msp1rat10n
The coton1al rnemsah1bs employed Hamanese boys as cooks
and they Interpreted Western cu1s1ne for the1r coton1al masters
1n a way that produced S1ngaporean class1cs such as
Ha1nanese Pork Chops breaded pork cutlets fned 1n 011 then
dressed w1th potato and tomato wedges. green peas and
on1ons fned 1n a gravy of soy sauce thickened w1th starch
Cu1s1nes w1th more flounsh than the Bntlsh have also
taken on mult1-ethn1c a1rs 1n Smgapore When a Singaporean
th1nks of lnd1an food. he th1nks of F1sh Head Curry, wh1ch IS
a d1sh that no one 1n lnd1a has heard of unt1l he comes to
S1ngapore lnd1ans may eat curry but only the Ch1nese have
the trad1t1on of eat1ng such th1ngs as heads. tails. ears and
entra1ts Mee Goreng aga1n prepared only by S1ngaporean
lnd1ans. IS another S1ngapore lnd1an ctass1c not found 1n
lnd1a smce the ma1n mgred1ent. the starchy, yellow Hokk1en
noodles (mee). cannot be found there
Wh1le Stra1ts Ch1nese CUISine may be Ch1nese food with food have encouraged hybndtsatlon of the cutstne and the
strong Malay overtones, local Malay food has also Incorporat- healthy compettlton has Widened lhe range of new dtshes
ed Ch1nese mgred1ents, such as noodles bean sprouts, tofu created to tempt the ever adventurous eptcure The range
and soy sauce Th1s has produced S1ngaporean Malay d1shes of what people eat has grown tremendously Whtle a proper
such as Mee Soto Ayam (yellow Hokk1en noodles served 1n meal once conststed only of nee and s1de dtshes-burgers.
a nch fragrant ch1cken broth) and Tauhu Goreng, a deli- sandWiches. and ptzzas go down JUSt as well as noodles and
CIOUS dtsh of deep-fned tofu stuffed wtth bean sprouts and nee Stngaporeans eat very eclecltc meals With components or
slivers of cucumber. and topped wtth thtck peanut gravy dtshes from dtfferent cutstnes-a habtl encouraged by hawker
Chtnese food ttself has evolved tiS own dtsltnctlve centres and food courts A typtcal food court meal may
Stngaporean touches that show the tnfluence of the other tnclude Hokkten-sty1e Poptah (spnng rolls tn soft wheat skins).
ethntc commun11tes Hatnanese Chtcken Rtce may sound lndtan Sup Kambtng (mutlon soup) and a Chtcken Chop.
ltke 11 came from the Ch1nese tsland of Hatnan It was once Wtlh the dtfferent communttles ea11ng together. the host
tndeed prepared only by the Hatnanese tn Stngapore has to be mtndful of rehgtous stnctures and choose food
although you would be hard pressed to lind 11 tn Hatnan. acceplable 10 all Malay and lndtan dtshes pose no prob-
espectally w1th lhat cnltcal accompantment of chtllt sauce lems, and the htghly adaptable Chtnese food can now be
made wtlh fresh gtnger. chtlli and vtnegar found 1n halal Chtnese restaurants conformtng lo Muslim
Whtle chtllies may not be na11ve 10 Soulheasl Asta, 11 dtelary restncttons lhese even atlracl Chtnese cuslomers
ts hard to tmagtne any Stngapore-slyle noodle or nee dtsh who can now eal comfortably w1th the1r Muslim fnends
Wllhoul !hem Every home and most restauranls slock chtllies Flex1b11ity and opportun1sm have been watchwords
tn one form or another, be tl linger-length red sliced ch1llies w1lh lhe m1gran1 commun11tes from lhe beg1nmng and
whole chtlt padt, green vtnegared or ground tn a vanety of def1ne lhe S1ngaporean m1ndset when 11 comes to the
sauces -regardless of race or culinary preference pursu1t of econom1c advancement as well as eattng The
Stngapore's prospenty IS laken for granted by tis huge resull1ng m1x has livened up lhe S1ngapore food scene
mtddle class Wtth the wherewtthal lo !ravel beyond lhe ennch1ng 11 w11h un1que combtnattons that dtd nol extsl tn
confines of a very small country to eat and dnnk well lhey lhe culinary lradttlons from whtch they stemmed
carry on the tradttton of ealtng out lhat slarted when the
menfolk dtd not have the ltme to do thetr own cooktng and
thus depended on 1t1nerant hawkers Thts practice IS now
fueled by the growtng number of women worktng oulstde
the home Eating out and the conslanl exposure to good

Ealmg S1ngapore Style 9


Etiquette and
Enjoyment
Whatever the ethn1c community, and wherever the place.
eat1ng 1n S1ngapore IS always communal. The assortment
of d1shes appear all at once, d1ners get 1nd1vidual serv1ngs
of warm fragrant nee and then help themselves to the s1de
d1shes One excepllon to th1s IS the Ch1nese banquet a for-
mal e1ght- or ten-course d1nner. where the d1shes appear
one at a lime.
"Don't use your f1ngers· IS not an admomshment you
w111 hear often lnd1ans. Malays and Stra1ts Ch1nese will tell
you that curry and nee taste best when you can literally feel
the food w1th your f1ngers
There are many mteresllng express1ons and gestures
that revolve around the d1n1ng table. Before the meal begins.
11 1s considered polite to 1nv1te the more sen1or members
at the table to eat Th1s harkens back to the Malay and
lndones1an v1llage trad1t1on of 1nv1t1ng people present to
partake 1n a meal. Members of the fam1ly often express
the1r affecllon by d1sh1ng the cho1cest p1eces 1nto the bowls
of the1r loved ones S1ngaporean hosts-especially the
older generallon Chmese-would shudder at the thought of
the1r guests leaVIng the1r d1n1ng table w1th the1r stomachs
sllll hungry, and would rather p1le the1r tables h1gh With
Insurmountable port1ons of food . Note however that guests
who do not at least finish what 1s on their plate-down to
the last gra1n of nee-are cons1dered rude. so be careful
how much food you place 1n yours'
Eallng w1th your hand has 1ts own etiquette. too. Only mouthfuls. never leave your chopsticks stack 1nto the rice
the nght hand IS used and JUSt the lingers. the palm has to or food-th1s 1s assoc1ated w1th nee offered to relig1ous
be kept perfectly clean. Wash1ng the hands before eating IS 1dols and the dead. Always place the chopsticks together
not only polite but hyg1en1c In liner lnd1an and Malay restau- resting on a bowl or w1th the t1ps on your plate and the
rants. a waller w111 bnng a bowl of warm water, sometimes handles on the table
w1th a lime. before and after a meal In some Ch1nese restau- Often before and always at the end of the meal. hot
rants. the bowl of delicately fragrant lime water IS also a towels are handed round for clean1ng the face and hands
common sight whenever Chilli Crab or Prawns are served in It 1s also common to rece1ve 1nd1v1dually wrapped rolls of
the shell There have been reports of unsuspect1ng tounsts perfumed. wet paper towels 1n many Ch1nese restaurants
m1stak1ng the water for a dnnk- so do warn your guests Ch1nese tea IS the traditional dnnk With Ch1nese food-
beforehand. espec1ally 1f they are not fam11iar With Southeast the hot. slightly b1tter brew of oolong tea 1s a superb
Asian d1n1ng pracllces. In the more pedestnan curry shops accompamment to 01ly st1r-fnes If you prefer someth1ng
or "banana leaf" restaurants. there Will usually be a row of m1lder and sweeter. you can ask for a pot of chrysanthe-
wash bas1ns and soap for customers to clean up Even mum tea. Hot water for the pot 1s always ref1llable but the
With clean hands, dmers should touch only the food on first brew IS always the thickest For some. however there
the1r plate. never that 1n the communal d1shes and the left IS noth1ng qUJie like beer to take the heat off your tongue
hand 1s used to hold the serv1ng spoon to keep 11 clean. and to cool you down when you eat sp1cy food One of the
Ch1nese food 1s more likely to be eaten With chopsticks. maJOr local beers. T1ger has won awards world-wide and
although at some Ch1nese food stalls and 1n many Ch1nese has even been Immortalized 1n Anthony Burgess salincal
homes forks. spoons and kn1ves are used At a ten-course novel. T1me for a T1ger
Ch1nese meal, chopsticks are de ngueur Suckmg or hckmg
the lips of the chopsticks is considered impolite and con- t«M. Sor1e aromt ChneSC trn<HIOilS hvc or .n ITlQO{>rn Singapore
tact between mouth and the t1ps of chopsticks 1s kept mini- where e 1eat10use olfe~s o ctl8flC(' '01 repose w11r.a Cl!lflklng a speoa tv
mal Spoons are set out for larger mouthfuls In between tllewed pot o11ea

10 Etiquette and EnJoyment


The Kopitiam Tradition The local brew had a reputation of be1ng Illegal-stones Cir-
culated of how opium, once legal and easily available. was
added to boost the potency of caHeme. Now most kopttiam
owners depend on coffee factories for their supplies.
"CoHee shop talk" IS a phrase Singaporeans use to In the morn1ngs, the koptttam fills up qu1ckly w1th people
describe goss1p, and no wonder s1nce the neighbourhood hav1ng breakfast before heading to the oH1ce or school In
coHee shop or kopitiam is where news, views and grouses the late morn1ng, the crowd thins out but there are always a
are exchanged over a cup of coffee or a qu1ck meal. few shift workers or sen1or Citizens who linger over a cuppa
In a typ1cal kopltiam. a dnnks stall at the back is run by for some "coHee shop talk".
the owner, who also sells breakfast 1tems and small Towards lunch lime. children attending the afternoon
snacks. A typ1cal breakfast at a kopttiam m1ght1nclude two sess1on dnft in for an early lunch before school. followed by
slices of locally made bread lightly toasted over a charcoal those who have JUSt finished the morn1ng session. Part of
grill, and served with a thick slice of chilled, me1t1ng butter. the lunch crowd IS made up of workers from nearby shops
slathered w1th kaya (coconut and egg Jam) or spnnkled and offices. Afternoons are a little quiet until evening brings
with sugar Soft-boiled eggs, eaten w1th soy sauce and back people in search of d1nner. then the d1ners g1ve way
pepper. are another to those who gather
kopltiam staple. The to soc1alize over a pint
other kinds of food of beer or stout.
come from stall The ebb and flow
holders. who lease of customers depends
space from the owner much on the kopitiam's
These stall holders are location and character
usually of vanous eth- Some pack up by
nlcllles, adding to the early evening, while
customer's vanety of others only do so m
choice cu1s1ne. Th1s is the wee hours of the
1n fact where the con- morning. The kopitiam ,
cept for the food court 1n sp1te of nsmg com-
ongmated- lots of petition from upmarket
food stalls w1th inde- air-conditioned food
pendent owner-cooks centres and restau-
shanng the same din- rants. f1rmly rema1ns
ing venue More often the heart and soul of
than not, there Will be S1ngapore.
a stall sell1ng Malay
Nas1 Lemak (fragrant nee cooked m coconut m1lk wrapped
1n banana leaves). roti prata and "economical noodles"
(Hokkien mee or rice vermicelli stir-fried in sweet soy
sauce. served with side dishes)-so named for its extremely
reasonable pnce.
Breakfast IS washed down with kopi-o (sweet black coffee)
or kopi susu (coHee with a few dollops of sweetened con-
densed milk), the usual morn1ng beverages of heartland
S1ngapore Other vanations of the morn1ng brew 1nclude
kopt-C, wh1ch IS bas1cally coHee with evaporated milk (the
·c· is for Carnation. a brand of evaporated m1lk) Replace
kopi w1th the word leh. and you get tea Add the word
kosong-wh1ch means "empty" 1n Malay-and you get
your cuppa sans sugar.
In a decent kopitiam of old. the owner roasted and ground ABOVE, (.._NIR:: Thts watercolof by Dante! Wegera captures the tlaOQUt:
his own beans, and some developed quite a reputat1on for mood of the old·style Singapore coffee she~ as mucr> a sooal centre
their brew-as d1d the1r Malay counterparts 1n sarabat (g1nger as a place to eat and dronk A!lOII£ These flask· •ke kettles. Ideal 101 Mak·
tng coffee. are part ot the typcal kopbam Kitchenware Coffee pOWder IS
tea) stalls w1th the1r teh tarik. S1ngapore coffee 1s thick and
!.COOped onto a musbn SliM) placed over the operung. ana hot oohng
strong, roasted corn and margarine are often added. along water •s poured over the powder The resulttng brew •s a SfTl()ky. tragrant
with a dollop of syrupy th1ck sweetened condensed milk. concocttOI" tnat provides a powerful calle.ne )Oit

The Kop11tam Trad1t1on 11


Chinese Food in Singapore
A potluck of Hokkien, Teochew and Cantonese cuisines

When two Ch1nese meet. the traditional greeting 1s to ask such as roasted suckling p1g, and vanous roasted meats
whether the other has eaten highlighting the central place of are done 1n k1ln-hke ovens or large drums-note however
food 1n Ch1nese culture The greet1ng must surely have been that Ch1nese ·roast" ch1cken IS actually deep-fned
brought about by the cycles of fam1ne long a part of Ch1nese Although the bas1c cook1ng techmques are used by
h1story, which have made Ch1nese cooks f1rm followers of the Ch1nese everywhere d1fferent prov1nces tend to prefer cer-
adage waste not want not Th1s approach to food 1s also tain techniques and 1ngred1ents The northern Ch1nese use
charactenslic of a people With strong roots 1n the so11. you ate mutton unheard of 1n the south, wh1ch accounts for the
whatever was plentiful, or 1n season and you made the best unfam1hanty Smgaporean Ch1nese have w1th mutton
you could of 1t And Ch1nese everywhere, 1nclud1ng S1ngapore. Northern cooks use more garlic and bean paste. wh1le cooks
do make the best of everyth1ng they can get the1r hands on 1n S1chuan 1n the West and Hunan 1n central China rely on
A lillie can go a long way when there are several k1nds chillies as well Northerners eat mantou, a wheat-flour
of 1ngred1ents cut small tossed 1nto a hot kualt (wok) w1th a bread as a staple, and nee IS more common 1n the south
b1t of 011. and stir-fried With garlic and fermented soybeans Foods from all reg1ons of Ch1na are well-represented
Slic1ng food 1nto bile-SIZe p1eces makes for rap1d, even 1n S1ngapore There 1s both elegant Shangha1nese and
cookmg Small p1eces BeiJing cook1ng the
are also eas1er to eat stuff of lmpenal
when you are manipu- kitchens, as well as
lating two th1n pieces sp1cy S1chuan and
of wood to p1ck up Hunanese food From
your food. and they the south comes
Simplify shanng 1n the Cantonese cu1s1ne,
communal style of wh1ch can range from
eat1ng Although large elegant nOtNelle Hong
chunks of meat are Kong With 1ts small
not unknown. these porti()(IS and frUity
are cooked unlit the flavours. to hearty.
meat falls away from homely sa poh
the bone and can be bra1sed food cooked
eaten 1n bile-sizes. or 1n claypots Cantonese
else the meat 1s cut roast meats such as
1nto small p1eces suckling p1g, roast pork
before bemg taken to and red-roasted pork
the table When us1ng (char stew) are JUSiih·
large meat cuts to ably popular
sweeten soups the meat1s often not eaten, but 1s left 1n Cantonese dtm sum or little hearts go down well the
the pot w1th rema1n1ng herbs world over and S1ngapore IS no different Dtm sum IS espe-
Wh1le st1r-fl)'lng 1s very Ch1nese. so IS steam1ng. where the Cially popular for lunch, whether qu1ck or le1surely In
prepared food IS placed 1n bamboo baskets over a kualt of S1ngapore. the Hokk1ens (ong1nally from Fu11an Prov1nce)
bo1ling water Equally popular IS bra1s1ng or steWing-the long, are the largest d1alect group. followed by the Teochews
slow cook1ng With season1ngs such as soy sauce, bean paste. (from Swatow). then the Cantonese The relatively small
oyster sauce or garlic transforms tough cuts 1nto melt-in- s1ze of the Cantonese community 1s not obv1ous g1ven the
your-mouth, flavourful morsels Deep- or st1r-fry1ng 1s some- h1gh profile of Cantonese cu1s1ne 1n S1ngapore Teochew
limes comb1ned With bra1s1ng or steam1ng a sauce prepared cu1S1ne 1s also qu1te popular. and 1s charactensed by light
WJth ch1cken stock. nee wtne soy sauces perfumed greens soups, steamed food and hsh d1shes-many 1n the com-
like spnng on1ons and conander leaves (cilantro), and other munity were. and still are 1n the seafood busmess
colourful vegetables. IS poured over the deep-fned 1ngred1ent L1ght and very popular not only for breakfast. but lunch
Many Ch1nese d1shes comb1ne several vegetables w1th d1nner and supper IS Teochew savoury porndge, nee gruel
meat or seafood. makmg for naturally colourful food Pil· eaten w1th vanous boiled, stewed, steamed and fned dishes.
roasling IS another cook1ng techn1que used for delicacies whether cooked at home or eaten at porndge restaurants

12
By contrast, fewer restauran ts serve the more homely used to make fishcake. which 1s another essential garn1sh
Hokk1en cu1s1ne, w1th 1ts charactenst1cally hearty bra1sed 1n Singapore food.
dishes. such as tau yew bak (pork bra1sed 1n black soy Although 1t may appear that the Ch1nese live only to
sauce) eaten with steamed buns, oyster omelette and eat, they also eat w1th health 1n m1nd. Stalls spec1alis1ng 1n
Popiah The cu1s1ne is strong on pork dishes, espec1ally tonic or herbal soups are now common in Singapore. These
"white pork" meat with plenty of marbling, trotters complete soups, usually a combination of ch1cken and g1nseng or
with the fatty sk1n, or belly pork. Garlic and soy sauce are pork w1th S1chuan vegetables or watercress double-boiled
used generously. Soups are good, especially heavy soups for long penods of t1me. are believed to nourish the body.
with meatballs and vegetables Yet long before the link between food and health
One much-loved Hokkien contribution to Singapore became fashionable. the Chinese were develop1ng a com-
hawker food is Hokkien mee. the yellow noodles found not plex philosophy of dietetics Certa1n foods are believed to
only 1n Hokkien Fried Noodles and Hae Mee (mee in prawn- be "cooling", or yin, wh1le others are "heaty", or yang, and
flavoured soup) , but also 1n Malay Mee Rebus. Soto Ayam, some are neutral. The human const1tut1on is class1f1ed the
and Indian Mee Goreng. In fact. much of the character of the same way, w1th some people be1ng more yin . wh1le others
food cooked by once-mob1le hawkers. now located in food are more yang. The Ch1nese believe that a balance of yin
centres, comes from the wide range of 1ngred1ents used by and yang 1n the body by eating the correct foods ma1ntains
different dialect groups, put together in d1fferent ways by good health, and 1t 1s therefore 1mportant to eat a w1de
other communities. range of foods in moderation
L1ke yellow Hokk1en mee. Teochew fishball is a classic
ingredient accepted by all the races 1n S1ngapore and found
in many dishes. be 1t Indian Rojak, Chinese noodle soup,
or cooked with Malay sambal. The f1shball IS made by
gnnding f1sh meat w1th tap1oca flour, salt and water to get a
bouncy, white fish paste The same f1sh paste can also be

Ch1nese Food 1n Singapore 13


Malay and Indian Food
On the food trail from Malaysia to Indonesia and the Indian Subcontinent

Both Indian and Malay cuisines are favourites for multt-racial On the other hand. roli john (':John's bread") was said
gatherings in Singapore. especially since local Indian and to have been tnspired by a homesick tounst named John Who,
Malay dishes are always halal {conforming to Muslim dietary so the story goes. was in search of a sandwich. A helpful
laws). The Mughal Emperors and thetr court were Muslim, hawker sltced up a French loaf, clapped in a mtxture of
and it has become traditional in lndta and Indian restaurants minced mutton and onion, dipped it in beaten egg, and fried
the world over not to serve pork, which is prohibited by the it until crisp. Historically speaking, however. the dish-now
Muslims, as well as beef. because of religtous strictures a staple at Muslim food stalls-is more likely an adaptation
imposed by Hinduism. whtch venerates the cow. of the lndtan Muslim dish. Murtabak (stuffed fned pancake).

Malay food Indian food


Fragrant roots such as galangal (lengkuas) . ginger and The Indians, who form just over 7 percent of Singapore's
fresh turmeric, together with shallots. garlic , fresh and dried population. are predominantly from the south of the sub-
chillies. with emphatic overtones from lemongrass (ser81) continent {mostly Tamils from Tamtl Nadu. and some
and betachan are what distingutsh Malay curries from Malayalees from Kerala in the southwest). Like the Chinese.
Indian ones. Malay cutstne IS the link between Indonesia, to the Southerners arrived first and came in larger numbers
the west and south. and Thailand to the north. Although the compared to the Sindhis, GuJeratis. Bengalis. Punjabis and
results are rather different, there is a certain amount of other Northerners who came later. Naturally, South lndtan
overlap, especially with the food of nearby Sumatra and, tn cutsine is more established and more common than that of
northern Malaysia. with Thailand. fresh roots and season- the north.
ings typical of Malay food are used with spices like coriander. Even non-Indians can easily tell the more fiery southern
cumin and fennel, although these combinations are common food from the milder Northern dtshes. lndtan cooking calls
in Indian curries. Coconut milk, widely used throughout trop- for sptces such conander. cardamom. cumin, fennel and
ical Asia, is added liberally to enrich many Malay dishes. cloves. but north and south use them dtfferently. North Indian
Malay food also tends to be slightly sweet with palm or
white sugar being a common ingredient. while tamarind
orr~r Delectable Malay fOOd can be efl!oyed tnroughout S.ngaoore ,n
juice gives a subtle tangy taste. food stalls and restaur<mts. and even a few Lne d n ng venues ow
Although Malay food is not as prominent in Singapore Feshvals. such as the Muslim H<Jr, Raya at the end of ttJC tas11ng monll"' of
as Chinese food. it is nonetheless part of the mainstream Ramadan. prOVIde an opportun ly tor teas11ng as well as tor family reuniQns
diet even for Chtnese Singaporeans. Famtliar favourites are the V1sllors ol all races are welcome dunng lhe llad,honat "open house·
Malay classics such as Korma. Beef Rendang, Chicken Curry
and the various sambals. An indispensible item in Malay
cuisine. Sambal Belachan, has become so undeniably a part
of the Singaporean diet. 1t appears as a standard condiment
in most Chinese restaurants. complete with half a lime.
Nasi Lemak. a coconut-rich rice dish served with a variety
of accompaniments such as crisp fried ikan bilis {dried baby
anchovies), peanuts, prawn, shredded omelette and Chilli
Sambal IS what many Singaporeans eat for breakfast. Some
of the kuih (cakes) associated with the Nonyas were Malay
to start with, and, along with Chinese chui kuih (steamed rice
cakes topped with Preserved Chinese Cabbage) and Indian
roli prala , are consumed for breakfast and at teatime.
The highlight of Singapore's Malay cutsine IS salay.
thought by some to evolve from the Arab kebab but with a
character all its own. Salay has spawned two Chinese ver-
sions: salay chelop, known locally as lok /ok- bite-sized
pieces of meat, vegetables and various items speared onto
salay sticks and cooked in a bubbling pot of peanut-based
gravy- Nonya pork salay, and salay bee hoon.

Malay and Indian Food 15


food 1s ennched w1th yogurt or cream. w1th a blend of Wh1le S1ngapore lnd1an food has most of the charac-
chopped herbs. fresh ch1lhes. and tomatoes added late 1n tenstlcs of lnd1an food elsewhere, 11 has not escaped the
the cook1ng lor a subtle flavour These th1cker curnes are Influences of the other ethn1c commun111es Apart from F1sh
eaten With a vanety of breads from unleavened flat chapa/1 Head Curry, another local lnd1an lavounte IS lnd1an Mee
to puffy tandoor-baked naan S1ngapore·s North lnd1ans Goreng lned yellow noodles prepared w1th ch1lhes potato,
hke North lnd1ans elsewhere have a largely wheat-based bean sprouts, tomato ketchup and some curry spices
d1et. although they eat at least one meal of nee da11y There IS also lnd1an Rotak, wh1ch has rather non-lnd1an
South lnd1ans. on the other hand eat a nee-based d1et 1ngred1ents. such as Javanese tempeh Ch1nese fned tauhu
that su1ts the1r more hqu1d curnes wh1ch are often ennched and hshcake along With boiled potatoes. hard-boiled eggs
With coconut m1lk However the Southerners have the1r 1n batter and a cho1ce ollntters all eaten dipped 1n a sweet
breads too fluffy and ghee-nch fOil pfata. and dosai tangy potato sauce. served w1th green ch1hes and slices of on1on
pancakes made from a fermented nee and dhal batter and cucumber
Dosa1 do n1cely lor breakfast. lunch, tea and d1nner. espe- Sup Kamb1ng (mutton soup) IS another lnd1an d1sh w1th
Cially when they come 1n a vanety of forms cnsp and a Ch1nese accent lots of fresh conander leaves (cilantro) to
paper-th1n, fat and fluffy, pla1n or w1th curry l1lhng perk up the robust soup seasoned w1th sp1ces. The soup
The extens1ve use of dned beans and lentils 1n a vanety comes 1nvanably w1th crusty fOil perancis (French bread)
of ways from staples to snacks g1ves lnd1an food a clout South lnd1an food 1s often prepared by lnd1an Muslims, some
w1th vegetanans Oosa1 shops are also often vegetarian of whose restaurants along North Bndge Road are well-known
restaurants s1nce vegetanan1sm 1s mandated by H1nduism lor the1r Murtabak and b1ryani, a fragrant saffron-coloured
Named alter the ·plate" on wh1ch the food 1s served. nee flavoured w1th lned on1ons. sp1ces. ra1s1ns and nuts
"banana leal restaurants reduce the d1shwash1ng load by cooked w1th mutton or ch1cken
hav1ng customers eat off banana leaves R1ce IS surround-
ed by your cho1ce of vegetables and dhal curnes. cnsp
pappadam. cooling yogurt and tangy rasam (pepper water)
Some banana leal restaurants cater to carn1vores. offenng
meat and seafood curnes. the most popular be1ng the local
F1sh Head Curry, wh1ch ong1nated 1n S1ngapore
The Best Show in Town
S1ngapore Street Food, Hawker Style

They once roamed the streets of S1ngapore, Itinerant food


hawkers who fed a mostly male populace too busy earntng
a llvmg to cook for themselves Today, hawkers no longer
ply thetr trade tn the streets. but have been relocated 1ns1de
permanent food centres whtch most Singaporeans perstst
tn calling hawker centres
Today, most women 1n Stngapore work outstde the
home, and home-cooked meals are therefore somethtng of
a weekend event rather than a datly necess1ty. Most people
eat out at least once a day, and the top choice for a qutck,
tasty meal 1s the food centre or the mcreastngly more
upmarket food court Food stalls are now permanent ftxtures
tn a vanety of places rangtng from an open-atr sett1ng to
covered markets and food centres. to atr-condthoned food
courts With more comfort and better decor
The ubiQUitous Ch1nese noodles were and shll are the
staples of any good food centre Take your ptck from nee,
wheat. mung or soya bean noodles They come th1n, thtck,
flat, round or square, fresh, dned or fried 1n 011. You can
have your noodles braised, sllr-fned. tossed in spicy sauce
mtxture or dunked in platn or sptcy soup. They also come
1n Chtnese. lnd1an or Malay styles The chotce at a regular
food centre now stretches even further, beyond noodles to Eating at a food centre tnvolves all your senses Your ears
are assailed by the shouts of the cooks. the clatter and
nee With a vanety of Chmese dtshes. Malay or lnd1an cur-
bang of ladles on g1ant woks or kualts , your nose lwltches
nes, barbecued seafood, to hamburgers. hot dogs. steaks
With every waft of fragrant steam from bubbling pots and
and chops, and even ptzza'
kualts stthng over roanng fires It IS amaztng how experi-
enced hawkers have developed thetr own untque method
to the madness. Ustng a system of spoons, co1ns, and even
clothes pegs, hawkers have crealed a reliable way to remem-
ber the many different orders and the spectal requests
customers have. A good rapport ts necessary to establish
a loyal clientele tn the face of such fierce competition-and
tf the hawker remembers hts customer's regular order, even
before they ask for 11, that IS one sure way of shoWing who
ts boss
A reputation for good food or a convententlocalion
make some food centres more popular than others, and
tf you come at peak hours, you may even have to stand
over someone having hts meal tn order to get a table. Some
dte-hard foodies would not bat an eyelid at the hour-long
queues for their favourite hawker dtsh

ABCM The Singaporean ~lldkes the na:.oonar pastme very SCf


ousJy Some road.> like lhs llJ'lCIOO n O~nato.-.n are blocked oil to ua! c
1n ttJC even1ng:s 1 ear¥ moriWlQ ancl are tleO~<:ated 10 suee: Side d 1
LUI Kscla Ayer Wet Market IS lamous tor 11s urr<~y of fresh market prorJuce
anc:l more cxotoc de!IQhfs such .IS turtle me 11 trogs anc:J oots

18
A food centre IS not the place for elegant dining, but the hav1ng the same open-a1r amb1ence that it has had for
no-fnlls approach does keep the cost of eating low. You decades. even if it is on a larger. more vaned scale.
can get a decent meal for under five dollars. a phenomenon
common to most Southeast Asian countries. And there are The drink evolution
many S1ngaporeans who will swear that the food at such Drinks in food centres in Smgapore go beyond the prosa1c
places beats that dished out 1n some fancy restaurants. to the delicious, with plain-looking soybean milk, downnght
Certainly, the Char Kway Teow (Stlr-fned nee noodles) . exot1c black grass herb jelly, freshly squeezed sugar cane
Wanton Mee (noodles w1th pork and prawn dumplings) and juice and healthy fruit juices blended on the spot. Familiar
Mee Goreng (fried Hokkien mee with egg) seNed up at cow's m1lk becomes susu bandung, m1lk flavoured w1th
many f1ve-star hotels are often poor Imitations of the real rose syrup and coloured a gansh p1nk. At a typ1cal dessert
thing to be found in the hot and noisy hawker centres Some stall, there are plastiC containers filled w1th "red rubies"
also vow that the food courts. wh1ch seNe basically the (water chestnut b1ts covered 1n tapioca flour). green Jelly-like
same fare 1n a1r-cond1tioned comfort. but at h1gher pnces. chendol strips made of glut1nous rice flour. almond-flavoured
pale in comparison 1n terms of the quality of the cu1s1ne Jelly and grass jelly cubes, sitting in a custom-made tray.
This may be why the Salay Club at Clarke Quay in Many Smgapore desserts are eaten With shaved ice. the most
Singapore continues to be a top draw with both visitors and popular being Ice Kachang: coconut jelly, crunchy seaweed
locals. Here the tables are set under the stars and your gelatine, atap seeds. mashed strawbernes and other f1ll1ngs
friendly satay man gnlls your slicks of satay nearby. You go topped w1th a mountam of 1ce shavings. doused generously
home w1th your hair smell1ng of grilled meat. but noth1ng with evaporated milk. red and green coloured syrup and palm
beats th1s meal of barbecued meat d1pped in a sp1cy sugar- the perfect way to round ott a Singapore feast.
peanut sauce eaten 1n the cool darkness of the night, lit
softly by lamps and the glow of coal f1res all around Unlike
most other hawker centres with the1r predom1nance of
()!u • r-.g wid Pf1JOYr.l9 a Crw S€ rnea 01 allY Olt\('f rype Ol foocJu..,
Ch1nese food stalls. the Salay Club 1s a showcase not only
Sino: •nore s easy ~10Cid ty w 'h rroeous f'lf! <~ and p~ces clearly
of that Malay piece de res1stance. satay. but also of other staled Pt IOtOQrvphs of thE' d Shes are usua ty J pta ;eo o· the rnenus
Indian and Malay street food The Salay Club is rare 1n still It lS 1$ 0 r10C~1 ty heir )IU wtlefl ()I{jet ~1 (j SlleS With C. JIIOUS lldr'leSI

The Best Show 1n Town 19


20
The Singapore Kitchen
All modern appliances gratefully accepted

At first glance, the typical Singapore kitchen is like its coun- designed to be set ins1de a wok; the bamboo absorbs moiS-
terpart 1n any Western country: modern, w1th tiled floors, ture as the steam rises, preventing it from falling back onto
electrical appliances and the refrigerator so essential in a the food If using a metal steamer, put a folded towel under
tropical climate. Look a little closer, however, and you'll find the lid to absorb moisture.
a number of subtle differences. Not all kitchens, for example, Singapore's Indian kitchens have traditionally used a
have ranges complete with an oven, as most cooking 1s heavy iron griddle or tawa for cooking chapati, dosai and
done on the top of a stove. Electric toaster ovens used for other breads, although some modern cooks prefer to use
grilling and toasting are, however, increasingly makmg their a large nonstick frying pan for such tasks.
way 1nto S1ngapore k1tchens. Gas IS preferred for simmering, A flat frying spatula is used for stir-frying in a wok, while
frymg and steaming, as the heat can be quickly adjusted. It wire-mesh baskets, traditionally made of brass with a bam-
is worth noting that very high heat is required for stir-frying boo handle. are ideal for lifting deep-fried food out of the
Chinese dishes and tor heating oil for deep-frying. Most wok, or for removing noodles from boiling water.
stove tops, whether Italian or A large, heavy wooden chopping board partnered by a
German brands come with a strong cleaver with a blade about 71/2- 10 em (3-4 inches)
double- or tnple-ring burner deep are indispensable for cutting up poultry, crab and fish,
for th1s purpose. for chopping vegetables and tor mincing fish or meat to the
Almost every Singapore desired sizes. Most Singapore cooks keep a granite mortar
kitchen has an electric rice and pestle on hand for quick pounding of small amounts of
cooker, which guarantees various spices and seasonings. While acknowledging that
soft, fluffy rice consistently this age-old method achieves a better result. most modern
and keeps it warm for late- cooks prefer the speed and ease of an electnc blender for
comers. Although not essential, grinding dried spices as well as large amounts of season-
you'll find it a great help if you eat rice fairly often. ings tor the spice paste (rempah) that
Saucepans are normally of enamel or stainless steel; forms the basis of many dishes.
aluminium is best avo1ded, especially for dishes containmg
tamarind or other acid1c ingredients. Traditional cooks still Preparing a spice paste
1ns1st on Chinese claypots or unglazed earthenware pots Whether you are us1ng a mortar and pes-
(often known by their Malay name, belanga). tor certain tle or a blender or food processor to pre-
dishes. These are generally 1nexpens1ve as well as attrac- pare the rempah used in many
tive, and often available in Asian spec1alty shops overseas. Singaporean dishes, you should always
Essential for all types of Singaporean food. the conical follow certain rules. All ingredients should
wok is known locally by its Chinese name, kuali. The wok has be peeled and sliced first. The hardest
got to be the best designed, multi-purpose kitchen utensil ingredients (such as galangal and
anywhere. When food is tossed about dunng stir-frying, the lemongrass) should be processed
sloping s1des ensure that the food falls back into the wok until fine before adding softer ingredi-
and not outside, and less oil is required for deep-frying. For ents like shallots, chilies and ginger.
dishes requiring a considerable reduction of the sauce. the Belachan should be added at the
wide wok allows the correct amount of evaporation. If you last moment and processed just
use an electric burner rather than gas fire, try to find a flat- to mix well. Dried spices should be
bottomed wok. Always choose the heaviest wok you can ground separately from the spices
find; cast iron, once the preferred material, is increasingly mentioned above. While you are blending the spices, you
being replaced by various alloys. may need to add a little liquid to keep the blades turn1ng.
Various types of steamers are available, but even here, If the rempah is to be fried, add a one or two spoonfuls of
the wok holds its own. With the addition of a perforated metal cooking oil, and coconut milk or stock, as in the recipe.
disc that sits about two-thirds of the way up inside the wok,
the wok becomes a fuss-free steamer. Just boil water in the
wok, place the food on plates, and on the disc, then cover
OPPOSitr t>~o."J AOCNE Eas11ruly meets West1n a Singapore kitchen. v.tlele the
the wok with a large domed lid. A woven bamboo steam- Asian wok and Southeast Asian condrments and •ngredoents meet modern
ing basket, aesthetically appealing as well as practical. is and trme-savmg dElV!Ces 1ke mcrowave ovens. nee COOkers and blenders

The Singapore Kitchen 21


Authentic Singapore Ingredients

Agar-agar IS a form of gelatine made It IS sold 1n dned blocks that range 1n


from seaweed that sets w1thout refng- colour from caramel to dark brown It
eratlon It IS used to make many should be roasted before use e1ther
As1an desserts and 1s sold 1n long wrapped 1n fo1l and dry-roasted 1n a
strands or as a powder 1n a small wok or skillet, or toasted over a gas
packet Use 1 1easpoon of 1he pow- flame on the end of a fork or back of
der to se1 1 11/ 2 cups (250 -375 ml) a spoon-to enhance 1ts flavour and
of hqu1d Instant jelly powder IS s1m1lar kill bactena In sonne rec1pes,
to agar-agar but IS softer, agar-agar betachan IS ground w1th the rest of Brown mustard seeds are small.
sets a b1t harder the 1ngred1ents 1n a mortar or blender round seeds used in many southern
and then fried in 011 w1thout toasting. It lnd1an cu1s1nes They 1mpart an
Banana leaves 1nfuse a delicate flavour IS not to be confused w1th fermented almost nutty flavour to d1shes Do not
and aroma to food They are often prawn sauce (hay koh) wh1ch tastes substitute w1th yellow mustard seeds
used as wrappers when steam1ng or and smells d1fferent- see below as the flavour 1s d1fferent.
gnlling d1shes or as little trays to hold
food when cookmg Soften the leaves Black bean paste (tau cheo) IS Simi-
slightly 1n bo1ling water for about 10 lar to Japanese m1so but much salti-
seconds before use to prevent them er-made of soft slightly fermented
from crack1ng and teanng when wrap- soybeans 1n a salty brown sauce Wllh
ping foods a d1st1nc11ve tang They are usually
mashed and used to season fish.
noodle and some vegetable d1shes
Sold 1n 1ars 1n supermarkets the Candlenuts are waxy cream-coloured
bas1c black bean paste contams only nuts s1m1lar m SIZe and texture to
soybeans. water and salt Sweetened macadam1a nuts. wh1ch can be used
versions. or those w1th added ch1lli as a substitute, although less-expen-
and garlic are also available M1so Sive almonds or cashews Wlll also do
makes a good substitute, but as 11 IS They are never eaten raw or on their
less salty than black bean paste, you own. but are chopped. ground and
will need to add some salt cooked w1th other seasonings. They
are added to Malay and Nonya curries
Bangkuang IS a root vegetable native Bok choy IS a crunchy, leafy green and sp1ce mixes lor flavour and texture.
to trop1cal Amenca, where 11 IS known vegetable that 1s w1dely used 1n They go ranc1d qu1ckly because of
as JICama It has a crunchy while flesh Ch1nese cuisine A large vegetable their h1gh 011 content, so buy 1n small
and be1ge sk1n that peels off qu1te w1th plump while stalks and dark quant1t1es and keep them refrigerated
easily It IS excellent eaten raw w1th a green leaves, fresh bok choy IS avail-
sp1cy d1p or cooked unt1l soft like the able all year round 1n fresh markets
f1lling 1n Pop1ah (page 52) Subst1tute and supermarkets Store bok choy
da1kon rad1sh refngerated 1n a plastic bag for no
more than 2 days

Bottled chilli sauce 1n Smgapore


comes 1n many different vanet1es
Most of them are qu1te sweet havmg
the cons1stency of tomato ketchup. Cardamom pods are used to flavour
w1th a blend of mgred1ents that gener- curnes and desserts-g1vmg foods a
ally mcludes chillies. garlic, v1negar. heady, sweet scent The f1brous, straw-
sugar. salt, omons and tomatoes coloured pods enclose 15-20 pungent
Western hot sauces like Tabasco do black seeds The pods should be
not make good substitutes as they bru1sed lightly Wlth a cleaver or a pestle
Belachan or dned prawn paste IS a are sour rather than sweet Look for when used whole Do not substitute
dense m1xture of fermented ground any type of bottled As1an chilli sauce ground cardamom as 11 IS v1rtually
prawns w1th a remarkably strong odour. that 1s bright red and QUite sweet flavourless compared to the pods

22
time. Although freshly pressed cream
and milk have more flavour, they are
now widely sold canned and in pack-
ets which are quick, conven1ent and
quite tasty. Canned or packet
coconut cream or milk comes 1n vary-
ing consistencies depending on the
brand, and you Will need to try them
out and adjust the thickness by
add1ng water as needed. In general,
Chinese celery is often referred to in you should add 1 cup (250 ml) water
Singapore as "local" celery. The to 1 cup (250 ml) canned or packet
stems are very slender and more fra- coconut cream to obtain thick
grant than normal celery-more of a coconut milk, and 2 cups (500 ml)
herb than a vegetable. The leaves are water to 1 cup (250 ml) coconut
Chillies are Indispensable in Asian generously used to garnish a variety cream to obtain thin coconut milk.
cooking. The commonly-used fresh of Chinese d1shes. Substitute celery These mixing ratios are only general
green and red Asian finger-length leaves or Italian pa~sley gu1des and you should adjust the
chillies are moderately hot Tiny red, cons1stency to ind1v1dual taste.
green or yellow-orange chili padi or
b1rd's-eye chillies are very hot.
designed for strong palates. Dried
chillies are usually cut into lengths
and soaked in warm water to soften
before use Dried chillies have a very
different flavour from fresh ones. To
reduce the heat, discard some or all
of the ch1lll seeds before preparat1on
as part of a spice m1x.
Chye sim is a leafy green vegetable
Chilli powder. a crucial 1ngredient in with slightly crunchy stems. Available
lnd1an cooking, IS a hot seasoning 1n supermarkets 1n Asia, chye sim is Coriander is a pungent spice plant
made from ground dried chillies. It IS now increasingly available 1n Western that is essential 1n Southeast Asian
not the same as Mex1can chilli pow- countries too Substitute any other cooking It is widely available and can
der which contains a m1x of paprika, leafy greens easily be grown at home. Coriander
cumin, thyme and other spices. leaves (also known as cilantro) are
Western paprika 1s also relatively used as a herb and a garnish. They
milder and tastes completely different are sold in bunches, sometimes With
from As1an chilli powder. the roots sllll attached. Small. round
coriander seeds have a mild c1trus
fragrance They are used whole or
ground into a powder that is the basis
for many curries and sauces.

Coconut milk or cream are used in


many d1shes 1n Smgapore 1n much
the same way that milk or cream are
used in Western cooking. They are
made by squeez1ng the flesh of fresh-
ly grated mature coconuts. To obta1n
coconut cream, about 1/ 2 cup (125 ml)
Chinese or Napa cabbage has tightly water 1s added for each grated coconut, Cumin seeds (jintan putih) are pale
packed wh1te stems and pale green then squeezed and stra1ned. Thick brown to black in colour and ndged
leaves. It has a mild, delicate taste coconut milk IS obtained by adding on the outs1de. They impart an earthy
and should only be cooked for a few 1 cup (250 ml) of water to the grated flavour and are used whole, or roast-
minutes to retain its colour and coconut, then pressing it to extract the ed and then ground to a fine powder.
crunchy texture. Chinese cabbage IS JUICe. Thin coconut milk is obtained Cumin seeds are usually partnered
a good source of calcium, potassium by adding another 2 cups (500 ml) of with coriander seeds 1n bas1c spice
and iron, and 1s often eaten in soups water to the already squeezed grated mixes, and are often dry-roasted or
Available year round in supermarkets. coconut and pressing it a second fned in oil to intensify their flavour.

Authentic Smgapore lngredrents 23


minutes before use. The tough stems
are usually discarded and only the
caps are eaten. These mushrooms
vary in thickness and quality. Try to buy
the thickest ones for dishes that feature
mushrooms as a main ingredient.

Eggplants used in Singapore are gen-


Curry leaves are the tiny, slender erally of the slender, purple-sk1nned
leaves of the curry leaf shrub. They do variety, 15-20 em (6-8 in) long. They
not taste like curry but are so-named are mild and need not be salted
because of the1r frequent use in before use.
Indian curnes They are sold in sprigs
of 8-15 small, slightly pointed, green
leaves w1th a d1stmct fragrance often
assoc1ated w1th lnd1an curries. There Dried Chinese sausages (lap cheong)
IS no substitute for curry leaves. are sweet, reddish sausages delicate-
ly perfumed with rice wine. They are
Curry powder IS a commercial spice used as an mgred1ent in stir-fries or
blend that generally 1ncludes cum1n braised dishes rather than being eaten
seeds, coriander seeds, turmeric, gin- on their own like European sausages.
ger. c1nnamon and cloves. D1fferent Sold 1n pairs, they keep almost indefi- Fennel seeds look like cumin seeds,
comb1nat1ons vary in colour and nitely without refrigeration. but are larger and paler. They add a
flavour and are used for d1fferent sweet fragrance to a number of Malay
types of curries- meat, fish or chick- and Indian dishes, with a flavour simi-
en Use an all-purpose blend 1f a spe- lar to liquorice or anise. The seeds
cific curry powder IS not available. are used whole or ground.

Dried prawns (hay bee) are a popular


Asian ingredient used in sauces and
sambals. They are tiny, orange-coloured
sun-dried saltwater prawns. They keep
for several months and should be Fenugreek seeds are flat and slightly
soaked in water for 5 minutes to soften rectangular, about 3 mm (1/ 8 in) across,
slightly before use. Dried prawns come light brown in colour, with a deep fur-
Daikon radishes are large root veg- in various sizes and the very small ones row along their lengths. They are bit-
etables also known as "wh1te carrots" have the heads and tails attached. ter, so use sparingly.
in Singapore. They are juicy but Look for dried prawns that are pink
bland, unlike the smaller western and plump and avoid any grayish Five spice powder is a blend of ground
radish. They can grow to a length of ones. Better quality dried prawns are dried spices containing cinnamon,
40 em (15 1n) or more. Choose firm bright orange in colour and shelled. cloves, fennel, Sichuan pepper and
and heavy daikons without any bruiS- ginger. It is sold in small packets in the
es on them Scrub or peel the sk1n spice section in most supermarkets.
before you grate or slice the flesh.

Dried salted fish is used as a season-


ing or condiment in Asia. It is not nec-
Dried black Chinese mushrooms essary to soak in water before use, just Galangal (lengkuas) is a fragrant root
should be soaked in warm water for 20 slice and fry until crisp. from the ginger family. It imparts a

24
d1stlnct1ve flavour to many Southeast nes of Malay and Nonya ong1n The
As1an d1shes Try to f1nd young. pink- leaves are added whole to curnes or
ISh galangal as 11 IS more tender Peel finely shredded and added to salads.
and slice the fresh root before gnnd- g1v1ng them a wonderfully tangy
lng as 11 1S qu1te tough. Galangal1s also flavour Kaff1r lime leaves are com-
available dned, frozen or packed 1n monly used 1n lndones1an and Tha1
water, but always try to get fresh cook1ng, and are available frozen or
galangal root whenever poss1ble as 11 dried 1n supermarkets Frozen leaves
IS more fragrant are more flavourful than dried ones

Hay koh (fermented prawn sauce) 1s


a black, pungent, molasses-like sea-
soning made of fermented prawns,
salt, sugar and thickeners It 1s used
as a sauce or a d1p It 1S somet1mes
labelled as pet1s and 1s unrelated to
belac han
Garlic chives (koo chye) or Ch1nese
ch1ves have flattened leaves that Kailan (kale or Ch1nese broccoli) IS
resemble th1n spnng omons They enjoyed for 1ts firm texture and
have a strong garlicky flavour and are emphatiC flavour Only the tender
often added to noodle or st1r-fned port1ons of the stems and young 1nner
vegetable d1shes dunng the final leaves are generally eaten. as the
stages of cook1ng outer leaves are QUite b1tter The thick-
er stems are generally peeled and
Ghee IS nch clanfled butter 011 w1th all halved lengthw1se before cook1ng
the m1lk solids removed W1dely used Broccoli stems make a good substi-
1n Indian cooking, it can be heated to tute Baby kat/an is a recently devel-
h1gh temperatures w1thout burn1ng Kaffir limes (llmau purut), also known oped vegetable grown by crowd1ng
Although ghee 1s very high 1n choles- as fragrant limes. are about the same the plants together and force-feed1ng
terol, 11 adds a nch and delic1ous s1ze as normall1mes but w1th a very them They have a crunchy texture
flavour to foods Ava1lable 1n cans 1n knobbly and Intensely fragrant sk1n, and are usually cooked whole
supermarkets and lnd1an proviSIOn but VIrtually no JUice Kaffir lime
shops Butter or vegetable 011 make leaves (daun ltmau purut) add an
good substitutes 1ntense fragrance to soups and cur-

Fresh yellow wheat noodles Fresh flat nee noodles Fresh laksa noodles Dned rtee vermteelh Dned glass noodles
(Hokkten mee) (kway teow) (Rtee noodles) (bee/loon) (tanghoon)

Noodles are a un1versal favounte 1n S1ngapore wh1ch the Malays, Nonyas and Indians have enthusiastically adopted
from the Ch1nese. Both fresh and dned noodles made from either wheat, nee or mung bean flour are found. Fresh yel-
low wheat noodles (Hokk1en mee) are heavy, spaghetti-like noodles made from wheat flour and egg Substitute dried
ramen or spaghetti. Fresh flat rice noodles (kway teow) are nbbon-like noodles about 1 em (1/ 2 1n) w1de, used 1n soups
or fned Substitute dned nee slick noodles Fresh laksa noodles are round like wh1te spaghetti, but are made from rice
flour and traditionally served 1n laksa soups. Subst1tute spaghetti Dried rice vermicelli (beehoon) are very hne nee
threads that must be plunged 1nto bo11ing water to soften before use Dried glass noodles, made from mung beans,
are f1ne wh1te strands that are generally used 1n soups They are also called "cellophane· or "transparent" noodles, both
accurate descnpllons of the1r appearance after soak1ng Both fresh and dned noodles should be blanched 1n boiling
water before cookmg to nnse and rev1ve them-use a pa1r of long chopsticks to keep them from st1Ck1ng together.

Authenttc S1ngapore lngred1ents 25


Limes are essent1al 1n Asian cook1ng
Small limes (/imau kastufl or kala-
mansllimes). about the size of a wal-
nut. have a m1ld and fragrant JUICe
They are squeezed over noodle diSh-
es and 1nto the ubiQUitous Samba!
Belachan (page 30) Large limes
With a greemsh-yellow sk1n have a
tart flavour Similar to lemons. whiCh
may be used as a subst1tute Kaffir Palm sugar (gula me/aka) IS sold as a
limes are generally used 1n dishes of solid block or cylinder and is made
Kangkung IS a nutnllous leafy veg- Malay or Nonya ongm (see above) from the sap of the coconut or arenga
etable also known as morn1ng glory. palm . It vanes 1n colour from gold to
water convolvulus or water sp1nach light brown and has a fa1nt caramel
The leaves and tender t1ps are often taste It should be shaved or grated
sllr-fned Bok choy or sp1nach make 1nto small chunks or melted 1n a micro-
good substitutes wave oven before us1ng. Substitute
brown sugar or maple syrup.

Okra, known locally as ladles· lingers.


1s usually partnered w1th eggplant 1n
lnd1an f1sh curnes The vegetable has
green. curved ndges and ranges from
Laksa leaves. also called daun 7- 20 em (3-8 1n) m length It conta1ns
kesum polygonum or VIetnamese ed1ble wh1te seeds and a sticky JUICe Pandanus leaves 1mpart a subtle fra-
m1nt. are traditionally added to sp1cy used for th1cken1ng some d1shes grance and colour to a range of Malay
laksa soup d1shes (page 34) The and Nonya d1shes They are usually
spear-shaped leaves w11t qu1ckly once Oyster sauce IS the nch, th1ck and lied 1n a knot and then added to a liq-
they are plucked from the stem They dark extract of dned oysters It IS fre- Uid rec1pe Bottled pandanus essence
have an 1ntense fragrance rem1n1scent quently added to st~r-fned vegetable can be substituted 1n desserts. but 1f
of lemon w1th a h1nt of eucalyptus and meat d1shes. and must be refng- fresh or dned pandanus leaves are
There is no real subStitute, but a mix- erated once the bottle 1s opened not available, om1t them from savoury
ture of spearm1nt and conander Expens1ve vers1ons made w1th d1shes Van1lla essence may be sub-
leaves or bas1l does approx1mate 1ts abalone and vegetanan versions stituted 1n dessert rec1pes.
flavour and fragrance made from mushrooms are also avail-
able. Check the 1ngred1ents listed on Plum sauce IS a sweet Chinese sauce
the bottle as many brands are loaded made lrom plums, vinegar and sugar
With MSG. Sold 1n Jars or cans in Chinese stores

Lemongrass IS a fragrant lemony Soy sauce IS brewed from soy-


stalk that IS e1ther bru1sed and used beans and somet1mes wheat
whole 1n soups or curnes. or sliced fermented With salt It is salty
and ground as part of a bas1c sp1ce and used as a table d1p and
m1x It IS usually sold 1n bunches of cook1ng season1ng Black soy
3-4 stems 1n the supermarket The sauce IS denser. less salty and
tough outer layers should be peeled adds a smoky flavour to d1shes
away and only the th1ck lower th1rd of Sweet black sauce IS a th1ck.
the stem 1s used Always slice the fragrant sauce used 1n man-
stems before gnndmg to get a nades and sauces.
smooth paste Regular soy sauce Black soy sauce Sweet black
sauce

26
Firm tofu Pressed tofu Deep-tried tofu

Tofu is rich 1n protein and amazingly versatile. Various types of tofu. originally
Pickled mustard cabbage (kiam
introduced by the Chinese, are now used by almost every ethn1c group in
chye) is used in some Chinese and
Singapore. Firm tofu holds its shape well when cut or cooked and has a
Nonya d1shes. Soak the heav1ly salted
strong, sl1ghtly sour taste. Pressed tofu (often confus~ngly labelled as f1rm
cabbage in water for 15 m1nutes to
tofu) has much of the moisture extracted and is therefore much firmer 1n
remove some of the sa1t1ness. repeat-
texture and excellent for stir-fnes. Refrigerate fresh tofu immersed in water.
Ing 1f necessary.
Slices of deep-fried tofu (tau too pok) are sold ready-made in supermarkets
and wet markets, and may be sliced or cubed and added to stir-fried dishes
Rice flour is made from ground
and soups.
uncooked nee gra1ns. It IS used to
make the dough or batter for many
desserts. Fresh rice flour was tradition-
ally made by soaking rice overnight and stains everything permanently,
and then slowly grind1ng 1t 1n a stone so scrub your knife blade. hands and
m1ll. The same result may be achieved chopping board immediately after
by gnnding soaked rice 1n a blender. handling. Purchase fresh turmenc
Rice flour is sold 1n powdered form in root as needed as the flavour fades
packets 1n supermarkets and Asian after a few days. Substitute 1 teaspoon
speciality shops. ground turmeric for 2t;2 em (1 in) of
the fresh root.
Rice wine is added to some mari-
nades and stir-fried dishes 1n very White vinegar or Chinese rice vine-
much the same way that sherry is used Tamarind pulp (asam) is the fruit con- gar are most commonly used in
in Western cooking. Substitute tained 1n the tamarind tree seed pod. S1ngapore cooking. Some recipes call
Japanese sake or dry sherry. It is sold dned 1n packets or jars and for Chinese black vinegar or red
generally still has some seeds and vinegar. both of which have distinc-
Sesame oil 1s extracted from roasted pod f1bres m1xed 1n with the dned tive flavours and are not inter-
(darker oil) or raw (lighter oil) sesame pulp. It is used as a souring agent in changeable. Balsamic vinegar may
seeds. It is added to Chinese dishes many dishes. To obtain tamarind be used as a substitute.
in small quantities as a final touch for juice. mash the pulp in warm water.
its strong nutty flavour and delicate strain and discard any seeds or
fragrance. It is never used on its own fibres. If us1ng already cleaned
as a frying medium as h1gh heat turns tamarind pulp, slightly reduce the
it bitter. amounts called for in the rec1pes. The
dried pulp keeps Indefinitely in an air-
tight container.

Wild ginger buds (bunga kantan) are


the pink buds of the wild ginger plant,
also known as torch ginger. They are
h1ghly aromatic and lend a distinct
Star anise is an eight-pointed dried pod fragrance to dishes of Malay and Nonya
encasing sh1ny black seeds that have origin. Available in Asian markets.
a strong an1seed flavour. The whole
spice is usually used when cooking Turmeric (kunyit) is a root Similar to
and is discarded before seNing. ginger but with a bright yellow flesh
Whole star anise keeps for a year in and a more pungent flavour. Turmeric
an airt1ght conta1ner. has antiseptic and astnngent qualities

Authentic S1ngapore Ingredients 27


Authentic Singapore Recipes

Sambals, Achars and


Portions
Condiments
In homes and restaurants 1n Singapore. several dishes are presented
together on the table family style, allowing diners to help themselves to
whatever they want. Small amounts of these dishes are eaten with lots of Dried Prawn Sambal
fragrant fluffy nee or noodles. Th1s makes it difficult to est1mate the exact
number of portions each rec1pe w1ll prov1de As a general rule, however, the This sambal makes a great snack
rec1pes 1n thiS book will serve 4 to 6 people as part of a meal with nee and on bread, and also goes well with
stir-fried vegetables and rice.
3 to 4 other main dishes
1f 2 cup(125 ml) oil
Singaporean seasonings 1/
2teaspoon salt
Singaporeans are very fond of strong flavours-spicy, salty, sweet, sour and 1 teaspoon sugar
bitter. The amounts of chilli, soy sauce and sugar g1ven 1n the followmg
rec1pes are gUides. not absolute measures Bear m m1nd that you can Spice Paste
always mcrease the amount of seasonmgs when prepanng a dish. 3f4 cup (100 g) dried prawns, soaked
Season1ngs at the table may be added later. so be careful not to overdo 1t to soften, then drained
in the in1tial stages. 15 dried chillies, deseeded, cut into
lengths, soaked to soften, drained
Sambals, Achars and Condiments 20 red finger-length chillies, deseeded
and sliced
Rec1pes on pages 29-31 can be prepared in large quantities and stored 1n
8 shallots, peeled
a covered glass 1ar 1n a refrigerator for a month or in a freezer for 3-4 months
6 cloves garlic, peeled
No Singaporean meal 1s complete without a small bowl of one of these on
1 tablespoon be/achan (dried prawn
the d1n1ng table.
paste)

Ingredients 1 To make the Spice Paste, grind


Many ingred1ents used 1n Singaporean have made their way into supermarkets the ingredients in a mortar or
around the world- Including conander leaves (cilantro), coconut milk and b lender. adding a little oil if neces-
lemongrass. Other ingredients like palm sugar. banana leaves, belachan sary to keep the blades turn1ng.
and pandanus leaves are less common and need to be sourced from 2 Heat the oil in a skillet and gently
shops spec1ahsing 1n As1an foods. If you're not m Singapore or Malaysia, stir-fry the Spice Paste over low to
look for Ingredients that are more dift1cult to find 1n As1an spec1alty shops. medium heat for 10 minutes until
If they are still difficult to locate, see pages 22- 27 for possible substitutes. fragrant. Season with the salt and
sugar, and set aside to cool. The
Tips on grinding spices sambal keeps in the refrigerator for
When us1ng a mortar and pestle or blender to prepare spice pastes, 11 helps up to a week. Skim off excess oil
to peel and slice all the ingredients before grinding Grind tougher or drier before serving. Just before serving,
Ingredients first before gnnd1ng the softer or wetter ones. Add a little liquid add a splash of fresh lime juice
(oil, coconut milk or water, depend1ng on the rec1pe) to keep the blades and serve in a small bowl with rice
turning. Be sure not to overload the blender-If the quantity IS large, pulse and barbecued foods.
them 1n batches and grind each batch before grind1ng the next If you have to
roast some 1ngredients before grinding. usually the case w1th belachan {dned Makes 11/ 2 cups (375 ml)
prawn paste) , allow them to cool down before gnnd1ng. Sp1ce pastes need Preparation time 20 m1ns
only be ground coarsely-not to a puree. Store unused sp1ce pastes in Cook1ng lime. 15 m1ns
plastic wrap or an airtight container m the refngerator or freezer.

Time estimates
Estimates are g1ven for food preparation and cook1ng, and are based on the
assumption that a food processor or blender is used to grind spices

Sambals. Achars and Cond1ments 29


Sambal Belachan Satay Sauce Pineapple Satay Sauce
Prawn Paste Chilli Sauce
4 tablespoons oil 2 candlenuts, roughly chopped
1/ cup (75 g) roasted peanuts, skins 1/ stalk lemongrass, thick bottom
Th1s much-loved sambal can be 2 2
discarded and coarsely ground third only, outer layers removed,
seNed with almost any meal.
1f2 tablespoon tamarind pulp, mashed inner part sliced
in 2 tablespoons water, squeezed 4 dried chillies, cut into lengths,
1 0 red finger-length chillies, deseeded
and strained to obtain juice deseeded and soaked to soften
and sliced 1/ cup (125 ml) water
2 4 shallots, peeled
2 tablespoons belachan (dried prawn 1/ teaspoon salt
4 1 clove garlic, peeled
paste), toasted (page 22)
1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon oil
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1/ cup (125 ml) thick coconut milk
1 teaspoon sugar 2
1/ teaspoon salt
Spice Paste or 1f 4 cup (60 ml) coconut cream
2
1 tablespoon coriander seeds mixed with 1f 4 cup (60 ml) water
1/ teaspoon cumin seeds 1/ tablespoon tamarind pulp mashed
2 2
Gnnd all the ingredients in a mortar
2 stalks lemongrass, thick bottom in 2 tablespoons water, squeezed
or blender to make a coarse paste. third only, outer layers removed, and strained to obtain juice
Keeps in the refrigerator for about inner part sliced 1/ cup (75 g) coarsely ground roasted
2
1 week. 1112 em (3/4 in) fres h galangal root, peanuts or 6 heaped tablespoons
peeled and sliced chunky peanut butter
Makes 3f4 cup (185 ml) 4 dried chillies, cut into lengths and 1/ teaspoon palm sugar or brown sugar
2
Preparat1on t1me. 10 m1ns soaked in warm water 1/ teaspoon salt
4
3 cloves garlic, peeled 1/ cup (50 g) canned or fresh
4
2 shallots, peeled crushed pineapple
Flour Crisps
3 shallots, peeled 1 Grind the Spice Paste ingredients 1 Grind the candlenuts, lemon-
2 cloves garlic, peeled 1n a mortar or blender, adding a little grass, chillies, shallots and garlic 1n
1/ cup (75 g) plain flour
2
oil if necessary to keep the blades a mortar or blender, adding a little
2 teaspoons butter turning. oil if necessary to keep the blades
1/ teaspoon oil
2 2 Heat the oil in a saucepan over turning.
1/ teaspoon salt medium to high heat and stir-fry the 2 Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry
2
1 egg Spice Paste for 3 to 5 minutes until the ground ingredients over medi-
Oil for deep-frying fragrant. Add the peanuts, tamarind um heat for 5 minutes until fragrant.
juice and water, and season with salt Add the coconut milk and gently
1 Gnnd the shallots and garlic 1n a and sugar. Reduce the heat to low bring to a boil.
mortar or blender. Knead this paste and cook for another 3 minutes, stir- 3 Reduce the heat, add the
with all the other ingredients, except ring constantly, then remove from the tamarind juice and peanuts or
the oil for deep-frying, to form a heat. Transfer the sauce to a bowl and peanut butter. and season with the
smooth dough. On a floured sur- seNe warm or at room temperature. sugar and salt. Simmer gently, stir-
face, roll the dough out as thinly as nng constantly, for 2 minutes.
possible and cut into small squares. 4 Remove from the heat and set
2 Deep-fry the dough squares 1n Substitute 1J2 cup (6 heaping table-
aside to cool. When cooled, add
very hot oil in a wok until light gold- spoons) crunchy peanut butter for
the crushed pineapple, mix well and
en brown and crispy, about 2 to 3 the crushed peanuts. Add the
set aside.
m1nutes. Set as1de to cool. When peanut butter to the sauce in step
cooled, store the crisps in an air- 2 and mix thoroughly, then remove
Makes 11/ 2 cups
tight container. SeNe as a crunchy from the heat. Satay Sauce can
Preparation time. 25 m1ns
topping in Yu Sheng (page 76) . be made in large quantities and Cook1ng lime 10 m1ns
kept in the the refrigerator for 2-3
Makes 2 cups weeks or frozen for 3 months.
Preparation lime: 10 m1ns
Cook1ng lime· 20 mns
Makes 1 cup
Preparat1on time 25 mins
Cook1ng t1me: 10 mins

30
Achar Kuning for a day or two to cure before serv- Lontong Steamed Rice Roll
P1ckled Vegetables w1th Turmeric Ing If kept 1n a sealed 1ar 1n the
refrigerator, 11 w111 keep for up to a 2 pieces banana leaf about 25 x 20 em
1/ 2 cup (50 g) peeled and thinly sliced month. Serve 1n a small bowl as a (10 x 8 in) , soaked In boiling water
carrot s1de dish w1th nee-based meals for a few seconds,
1/ cup (40 g) peeled, deseeded and or 1 piece cheesecloth about
2
thinly sliced cucumber Makes 2 cups 60 x 60 em (24 x 24 in)
1/ 2 cup (80 g) peeled and thinly sliced Prepara11on lime 25 m~ns 1 cup (200 g) uncooked long-grain
daikon radish Cook1ng t1me 10 m1ns rice, soaked In cold water for
2 tablespoons coarse salt 15 minutes
1 em (1/2 in) fresh turmeric root, sliced,
or 1/ 2 teaspoon ground turmeric
Chilli Ginger Sauce 1 To make the Lontong, f1rst soften
3 slices fresh peeled ginger the banana leaves by scald1ng them
10 red finger-length chillies, deseed-
2 cloves garlic, peeled 1n boiling water 1n a tub or pot for 10
ed and sliced
2 tablespoons oil seconds. Dra1n the leaves and shake
10 cloves garlic, peeled
4 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole dry. Then place one banana leaf over
10 slices ginger (about 30 g/ 1 oz)
4 shallots, peeled and left whole the other and roll 1nto a cylinder 5 em
1 tablespoon white vinegar
1 stalk lemongrass, thick bottom third (2 1n) in diameter Fold one end over
only, outer layers removed, inner 3-4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
11/ 4 tablespoons sugar and seal w1th a toothp1ck. Spoon the
part bruised
1/ teaspoon salt nee 1nto the roll and fold the open
2 green chili padi (bird's-eye chillies), 2
end of the leaf over and secure With
whole, or 2 red finger-leng1h chillies,
deseeded and halved lengthwise Gnnd all the 1ngred1ents coarsely 1n a toothp1ck; leave two-th1rds of the
1/ 4 teaspoon ground white pepper a mortar or blender. Store. covered, roll empty for the nee to expand dur-
1 tablespoon sugar 1n the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Ing cooking Place the roll in a pot of
2 tablespoons white vinegar diluted Serve with noodles or Chinese d1shes bo11ing water, cover and simmer very
with 4 tablespoons water gently for 30 m1nutes Then remove
Makes 1 cup (250 ml) from the pot and cool to room tem-
1 Spnnkle the carrot. cucumber and Preparat1on lime 15 m1ns perature before serv1ng
rad1sh with the salt Cover with a 2 If using a cheesecloth rnstead of
plate and we1gh down w1th a heavy banana leaves. fold the cloth in half,
bowl. Set aside for 20 m1nutes. Crispy Fried Shallots place the nee on the cloth and roll 11
2 Gnnd the turmenc, g1nger and or Garlic up Seal one end w1th a k1tchen
garlic to a paste 1n a mortar or stnng. then seal the other end of the
blender, add1ng a little oil 1f neces- 30 shallots or 30 cloves garlic
1/ 2 cup (125 ml) oil cloth With another piece of k1tchen
sary to keep the blades turn1ng stnng, leav1ng enough room 1n the
3 Rinse the vegetables, dra1n and cloth to hold 2 t1mes the amount of
1 Peel and th1nly slice the shallots
squeeze out as much mo1sture as uncooked nee Then proceed to
or garlic. Then pat dry w1th paper
possible cook as descnbed above
towels.
4 Heat the 011 1n a wok over med1um
2 Heat the 011 1n a wok and gently
heat. add the whole garlic and stir- Makes 2 cups
stir-fry the shallots or garlic over
fry for a minute Remove and set Preparation lime 20 m1ns
med1um heat unt1l light golden
as1de Then add the shallots and Cook1ng lime 30 m1ns
brown and cnsp, about 5 to 7 min-
st1r-fry for another m1nute. Remove
utes. Do not allow them to burn or
and set aside.
they will taste b11ter. Dra1n, cool
5 Reduce the heat to low, add the
completely and store 1n an a1rt1ght
ground paste. lemongrass and chllt
conta1ner Reserve the Shallot or
padt, and stir-fry for 5 m1nutes. Add
Garlic Oil for fry1ng or season1ng
the vegetables. reserved garlic and
other d1shes
shallots. and season w1th the pep-
per and sugar. St1r-fry until the sugar
Makes 1 cup
diSSolves, about 1 m1nute. Preparat1on 11me 5 m1ns
6 Add the diluted v1negar and bnng Cook1ng t1me 10 m1ns
to a boil Immediately remove from
the heat and set as1de to cool Th1s
achar is best kept 1n the refngerator

Sambals Achars and Cond1ments 31


Classic Hainanese Chicken Rice
The class1c S1ngapore d1sh made with fresh chicken to ach1eve a perfect
comb1nat1on of flavours and textures, accompanied by fluffy nee cooked
1n ch1cken stock, soup and 3 types of sauces.

8 cups (2 litres) chicken stock or 4 teaspoons chicken stock granules dissolved


in 8 cups (2 litres) hot water
1 large fresh chicken (about 11/ 2 kg/31bs), cleaned and patted dry
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1/ teaspoon sesame oil
4
1 spring onion, thinly sliced, to garnish
1 sliced tomato, to garnish
1 sliced cucumber, to garnish
Sprigs of coriander leaves (cilantro), to garnish

Chicken Rice
1 tablespoon oil or chicken fat
1 clove garlic, unpeeled
1 slice of fresh ginger, peeled and bruised
2 cups {400 g) uncooked long-grain rice, rinsed and drained
2 pandanus leaves, tied in a knot (optional)

Sauces
1 portion Chilli Ginger Sauce (page 31)
5 em (2 in) fresh ginger ground with 1 tablespoon water
2 tablespoons black soy sauce

1 Make the Chllh G1nger Sauce by follow1ng the Instructions on page 31


2 Bnng the ch1cken stock to a rolhng boll 1n a pot and add the ch1cken Turn
off the heat. cover the pan and let the ch1cken steep for 15 m1nutes Then
remove the ch1cken from the stock, plunge 11 in ice water to cool for 1
m1nute, and dra1n Bnng the stock back to a bo1l, return the ch1cken to the
pot and repeat the steep1ng process another 3 times so that the ch1cken has
a total of 60 m1nutes of steep1ng 1n the stock. Remove the chicken and set
as1de to cool. Keep the stock warm to cook the Chicken Rice. When cool
enough to handle, cut the ch1cken 1nto serving pieces. Drizzle the soy sauce
and sesame 011 over and garnish w1th coriander leaves.
3 To cook the Ch1cken R1ce, heat the oil1n a pan over medium to high heat
and brown the garlic and g1nger, about 1 minute. Add the nee and st1r-fry
until fragrant, about 2 m1nutes Add the pandanus leaves, 1f us1ng, and 4
cups (1 htre) of the reserved stock, and bnng it to a boll. Reduce the heat
and s1mmer covered. for 15 to 20 m1nutes until the rice IS cooked
Alternatively. cook the seasoned nee 1n a rice cooker.
4 Place each of the Sauces 1n separate serv1ng dishes. Pour the rema1n1ng
ch1cken stock 1nto small md1v1dual bowls and garn1sh w1th freshly sliced
spnng on1on Serve the ch1cken With the hot Ch1cken R1ce. Sauces. shced
tomato and cucumber and small bowls of the ch1cken stock on the s1de

Serves 4 6 Prepara11on lime 25 m1ns Cook1ng 11me 1 hour 25 m1ns

32 R1ce and Noodles


Laksa Noodle Soup Mixed Seafood and Noodles in Spicy Coconut Broth

Laksa Incorporates both Ch1nese and Malay cooking styles w1th a remarkable result- fresh rice noodles bathed
1n sp1cy coconut milk curry w1th chunks of seafood , egg and deep-fned tofu, and a spnnkhng of fragrant herbs.

3 tablespoons oil Spice Paste


3 cups (750 ml) thin coconut milk 1 teaspoon fish curry powder
or 1 cup (250 ml) coconut cream 1/ tablespoon ground coriander
2
mixed with 2 cups (500 ml) water 2 tablespoons dried prawns, soaked
2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock or in water to soften
1 teaspoon chicken stock granules 8 candlenuts, roughly chopped
dissolved in 2 cups (500 ml) 2'/2 em (1 in) fresh turmeric root,
hot water peeled and sliced, or 1 teaspoon
250 g (8 oz) medium fresh prawns, ground turmeric
shelled and deveined 4 red finger-length chillies, deseeded
100 g (3 1/ 2 oz) squid, cleaned, and sliced
skinned and sliced (optional) Note: The coconut milk curry
5 em (2 in) fresh ginger, peeled and
6 fresh scallops (optional) sliced
can be prepared several hours 1n
4 cakes deep-fried tofu or aburage 20 shallots, peeled advance and reheated JUSt before
(about 50 g/2 oz), cut into 8 pieces 5 cloves garlic, peeled seMng Although laksa leaves
1/
4teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon be/achan (dried prawn (polygonum or V1etnamese m1nt)
1/
4teaspoon ground white pepper paste) add a d1s!lnc11ve touch, om1t 1f not
400 g (14 oz) fresh laksa noodles 1 teaspoon salt available as nothing else tastes
(rice noodles), blanched in boiling 1 tablespoon sugar (optional) like this pungent herb. Substitute
water, or 200 g (7 oz) dried rice ver- 2 stalks lemongrass, thick bottom w1th plain curry powder if fish
micelli (beehoon) , soaked In water third only, outer layers removed, curry powder IS unavailable.
to soften inner part bruised
1 cup (75 g) bean sprouts, rinsed
and blanched in boiling water 1 To prepare the Sp1ce Paste, grind all the 1ngred1ents, except the salt,
4 quail eggs, hard-boiled and halved, sugar and lemongrass 1n a mortar or blender, add1ng a little oil 1f necessary
or 2 chicken eggs, hard-boiled and
to keep the blades turn1ng Season the paste w1th the salt and sugar. and
quartered
set aside w1th the lemongrass
2 sprigs laksa leaves (daun kesum or
2 Heat the oil in a wok or pot over low heat and stir-fry the Sp1ce Paste for 5
polygonum), coarsely chopped, to
garnish m1nutes until fragrant Add the coconut m1lk and ch1cken stock, and bnng to
Crispy Fried Shallots (page 31) , to a boil, st1rnng constantly Then reduce the heat. add all the seafood and the
garnish (optional) tofu , and season w1th the salt and pepper. Simmer until cooked, about3
Small limes (limau kasturt) or regular minutes. Then remove the coconut curry from the heat.
limes, cut into wedges, to serve 3 To serve, d1stnbute the noodles and bean sprouts 1nto 4 serving bowls
and ladle the hot curry w1th the seafood and tofu over the noodles to fill
each bowl Garn•sh w1th the eggs, laksa leaves and Cnspy Fned Shallots,
and serve the lime wedges on the side

Serves 4 Preparatton ltme. 40 mtns Cooktng 11me 30 m1ns

34 Rtce and Noodles


Fried Beehoon Rice Vermicelli Stir-fried w ith Mushrooms and Vegetables

A simple light dish that can be eaten as a snack or as part of a main meal.

10 dried black Chinese mushrooms 1 Soak the dried black Chinese mushrooms in 4J5 cup (200 ml) hot water for
1 tablespoon oyster sauce 10 minutes to soften. Then discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.
1/ tablespoon sugar
2 Reserve the soaking water.
10-15 fresh or canned button mush-
2 Combine the oyster sauce and sugar in a bowl. Add all the mushrooms,
rooms, rinsed and halved
mix well and set aside to marinate for 5 to 10 minutes.
4 tablespoons oil
8 cloves garlic , minced 3 Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the garlic over medium heat until light
1 onion, sliced golden brown, about 1 minute. Add the onion and stir-fry until transparent,
1 carrot, sliced into thin shreds about 3 minutes. Then add the marinated mushrooms and stir-fry for 1
250 g (8 oz) dried rice vermicelli (bee- minute. Add the carrot and stir-fry briskly for 10 to 20 seconds.
hoon), soaked in hot water to soften 4 Add the softened beehoon and stir-fry briskly for 1 minute. Season with
2 tablespoons soy sauce the soy sauces, salt and pepper, and stir-fry briskly for another minute. Then
1 teaspoon black soy sauce add the chye sim, bean sprouts and reserved mushroom water, and stir-fry
1/ teaspoon salt
2 for another 2 to 3 minutes until the vegetables are wilted. Serve hot with the
1/ teaspoon pepper
2 chillies and lime halves on the side.
1 heaping cup chopped chye sim ,
bok choy or cabbage
Serves 4 Preparation time: 30 m1ns Cooking time: 10 m1ns
2 cups (150 g) bean sprouts
2 red finger-length chillies, thinly
sliced, to serve
Small limes (limau kasturt) or regular
limes, halved, to serve (optional)

Fried Kway Teow Char Kway Teow

Fresh flat rice noodles (kway teow) stir-fried with seafood and chilli paste is practically Singapore's national dish .

4 tablespoons oil 1 Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a wok over high heat and stir-fry the garlic
5 cloves garlic, minced until light brown, about 1 minute. Add the seafood, chilli paste and Chinese
100 g (31 / 2 oz) red snapper fillet, sausages, and stir-fry for another 2 minutes.
sliced (optional)
2 Add the noodles and chye sim, and stir. Then season with the soy sauces
250 g (8 oz) medium fresh prawns,
and sugar, and stir to mix well.
shelled and deveined
3 Push the noodles to the side of the wok, reduce the heat to medium, add
200 g (7 oz) squid, cleaned and
sliced the rest of the oil and the beaten eggs. Scramble the eggs, then stir-fry with
1- 2 tablespoons chilli paste the rest of the ingredients in the wok to mix well, about 1 minute.
2 sweet dried Chinese sausages (lap 4 Add the bean sprouts and chilli, and stir-fry for another 1 to 2 minutes.
cheong), blanched and thinly sliced Season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.
500 g (1 lb) fresh flat rice noodles
(kway teow) or 250 g (8 oz) dried Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 25 mins Cooking time: 7 m1ns
rice sticks, blanched in hot water
and drained
1 cup (100 g) chye sim , washed and
cut into lengths
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1-2 tablespoons black soy sauce
1/ teaspoon sugar (optional)
2
3 eggs, lightly beaten
3f4 cup (about 60 g) bean sprouts
1 red chilli finger-length, thinly sliced
1/ teaspoon salt
2
1/ teaspoon ground white pepper
2

Rice and Noodles 37


Classic Hokkien Mee Braised Noodles with Seafood Hokkien Style

As the majority of Singapore's Chinese population is Hokkien, this is an all-time favourite noodle dish. A combi-
nation of fresh yellow wheat noodles (Hokkien mee) and rice vermicelli are stir-fried with a mixture of seafood ,
vegetables and pork. The whole lot is then bathed in rich stock and seasoned to perfection. Robust rather than
refined, it makes an excellent lunch or late-night snack.

250 g (8 oz) medium fresh prawns, 1 Prepare the Sambal Belachan by following the instructions on page 30.
shelled and deveined, shells and 2 Make a stock by placing the prawns, reserved prawn shells and heads,
heads reserved to make stock squid or fish, pork and water in a pot and bringing it to a boil for 2 to 3 min-
1 small squid or fish fillet, cleaned utes. Strain and reserve the stock. Set the seafood and meat aside. Discard
and sliced
the prawn shells and heads.
3f4 cup (100 g) pork fillet or belly
3 Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. add the garlic and stir-fry for a 1
pork, very thinly sliced
2 cups (500 ml) water
minute until light brown. Add the prawns, squid and pork, and stir-fry briskly
1f3 cup (90 ml) oil
for a few seconds. Then add 1112 cups (375 ml) of the stock and simmer for
4 cloves garlic, minced another minute.
250 g (8 oz) fresh yellow wheat noo- 4 Increase the heat to high, add both types of noodles, chye sim, bean sprouts,
dles (Hokkien mee) soy sauce and pepper. Stir-fry briskly until all ingredients are mixed, about 2
150 g (5 oz) dried rice vermicelli to 3 minutes. Then add the egg and cook for about a minute until the egg is
(beehoon), soaked in hot water to cooked. Garnish with fresh coriander leaves or shredded carrot. if using.
soften, then cut into short lengths Serve with a small bowl of Samba! Belachan and lime halves on the side.
5 stalks chye slm or bok choy leaves,
rinsed and sliced
1 cup (75 g) bean sprouts Note: It is essential to cook the noodles over very high heat to ensure that
2 tablespoons soy sauce most of the Stock evaporates by the time the noodles are cooked.
1/ teaspoon ground white pepper
2
1 egg, lightly beaten
Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 30 mins Cooking time: 10 m~ns
chopped, or finely shredded carrot,
to garnish (optional)
Samba! Belachan (page 30)
Small limes (llmau kastun) , halved,
to serve

38 Rice and Noodles


Mee Siam Rice Noodles in Spicy Tamarind Gravy

Th1s Nonya specialty-noodles 1n a sp1cy sweet and sour broth-1s a


popular snack at food stalls throughout S1ngapore

30 dried chillies (about 100 g), cut into lengths, deseeded and soaked
in water to soften
3 tablespoons oil
250 g (8 oz) dried rice vermicelli (beehoon) , soaked in hot water to soften
2 cups (150 g) bean sprouts, rinsed, seed coats and tails removed, or cabbage
4 cakes deep-fried tofu or aburage (about 200 g/7 oz total), diced,
or 2 cakes pressed tofu (300 g/ 10 oz), diced and pan-fried until golden brown
250 g (8 oz) medium fresh prawns, boiled for 1 to 2 minutes in 3 cups (750 ml)
water, drained, shelled and deveined, prawn stock reserved
8 quail eggs, halved, or 2 hard-boiled eggs, shelled and cut into wedges
2 spring onions or garlic chives (koo chye) , cut into lengths, to garnish
Sambal Belachan (page 30) , to serve
4 small limes (/imau kastun) , halved, or regular limes to serve

Sauce
5 tablespoons dried prawns, soaked in water to soften
10 candlenuts, roughly chopped
8-10 shallots, peeled
6 cloves garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon belachan (dried prawn paste)
5 tablespoons oil
1/ cup (75 g) unsalted peanuts, roasted and coarsely crushed
2
3 tablespoons black bean paste (tau cheo), mashed
6 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons tamarind pulp mashed with 1 cup (250 ml) warm water,
squeezed and strained for juice
1 stalk lemongrass, thick bottom third only, outer layers removed,
inner part bruised
1/ tablespoon black soy sauce
2
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper

1 Prepare the Samba! Belachan by following the instructions on page 30. Grind
the dried chillies to a paste in a blender, transfer to a small bowl and set aside.
2 Prepare the Sauce by grind1ng the dned prawns, candlenuts, shallots, gar-
lic and be/achan in a blender, add1ng a little oil if necessary to keep the
blades turning Heat the 01l1n a wok over med1um heat and and gently stir-
fry the ground paste for 5 m1nutes Add the peanuts, black bean paste and
sugar, and stir-fry for another m1nute Add the reserved prawn stock,
tamarind JUICe. lemongrass and soy sauce, and bnng to a boil. Reduce the
heal and s1mmer gently, uncovered. for 5 m1nutes . Season Wlth salt and pep-
per Remove from the heat and keep warm
3 Heat the oil1n a wok and st1r-fry 3 tablespoons of the reserved chilli paste
lor 1 m1nute Then add the noodles and cont1nue to stir-fry JUSt long enough
to coal w1th the paste so they take on a red colour, about 1 m1nute.
4 To serve. div1de the noodles 1nto 4 serv1ng bowls Top the noodles with
bean sprouts, lned tofu, prawns and eggs Ladle the hot Sauce over and
garn1sh with spnng on1ons or ch1ves Serve w1th a small bowl of Samba!
Belachan and lime halves on the s1de.

Serves 4 Preparat1on t1me 25 m1ns Cook1ng t1me 15 m1ns

A1ce and Noodles 41


Prawn Noodle Soup Hae Mee

The flavour of this relatively simple noodle dish depends on the richly flavoured stock made from both fresh and
dried prawns, and pork or chicken. This soup is traditionally served with delicious, crunchy pork cracklings;
some may omit these for health reasons but they make all the difference to the flavour of the dish.

8 cups (2 litres) water 1 Bring the water to a boil in a pot, add the shelled prawns and boil for 2
250 g (8 oz) large fresh prawns, minutes until the prawns turn pink. Drain the prawns and set aside, reserv-
shelled and deveined, heads and ing the prawn broth to make the Stock.
shells reserved for the Stock
2 To make the Stock, heat the oil in a pot over medium to low heat and stir-
50 g (2 oz) back pork fat
fry the reserved prawn heads and shells with the small fresh prawns, dried
or salt pork, cubed (optional)
prawns and dried chilli for 5 minutes. Crush the ingredients in the pot firmly
500 g (1 lb) fresh yellow wheat
noodles (Hokkien mee)
with the back of a wooden spoon against the side of the pan, then add all
1 cup (75 g) bean sprouts, rinsed, the other Stock ingredients, except the sugar and salt, and add the
or a few leafy greens reserved prawn broth. Simmer gently over low heat, uncovered, for 20 min-
1 spring onion, thinly sliced, utes until the liquid is reduced to three-quarters of the original amount.
to garnish 3 Heat the sugar in a small skillet with 1 tablespoon of water and cook, stir-
Ground white pepper, to taste ring constantly, over medium heat until it caramelises, about 1 minute. Add
this caramel syrup to the Stock and mix well. Remove from the heat and strain
Stock the Stock, pressing the solids firmly with the back of a spoon to extract all
1 tablespoon oil the liquid, then season with the salt. Keep the Stock hot if using immediately.
100 g (3 1/ 2 oz) small fresh prawns
4 While the Stock is cooking, fry the pork fat, if using, in a wok over medium
3 tablespoons dried prawns
to low heat until the oil runs out and the pork is crisp and golden, about 3 to
1 dried chilli, whole (optional)
5 minutes. Drain and set aside. Alternatively, place the pork fat in a preheat-
5 shallots, diced
5 cloves garlic, minced ed oven at 180°C (350°F) and bake it for 5 to 10 minutes until crisp and the
10 whole white peppercorns, coarsely oil runs out.
ground and dry-fried until fragrant 5 Scald the nood les in boiling water for 1 minute to heat through, then
250 g (8 oz) pork or chicken bones divide them into 4 serving bowls. Top each serving with bean sprouts or
1 tablespoon sugar leafy greens, ladle the hot Stock over and add some prawns into each
1/ teaspoon salt
4 bowl. Sprinkle the fried pork, spring onion and add a liberal dash of white
pepper. Serve immediately with sliced red chilli in a bowl of soy sauce or with
the sambal of your choice.

Serves 4 Preparation time: 25 mtns Cooking time: 30 mins

42 Rtce and Noodles


Soto Ayam Spicy Chicken with Noodles

As the ancestors of many Malay S1ngaporeans originally came from Java, 1t's
not surpns1ng that th1s Javanese noodle soup IS found at most S1ngapore
food centres It's 1deal as a hght luncheon d1sh or even as a starter

1 large fresh chicken (about 1 1/ 2 kg/3 lbs)


8 cups (2 litres) water
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
50 g (2 oz) dried glass noodles, soaked in hot water to soften, then drained
6 slices of lontong (page 31 ), cubed,
or 2 cups (400 g) cold cooked rice (optional)
6 quail eggs, peeled and halved, or 5 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered
1'/2 cups (125 g) bean sprouts, rinsed
5 tablespoons coarsely chopped Chinese celery or parsley leaves
Crispy Fried Shallots (page 31), to garnish
Sambal Belachan (page 30), to serve
3 small limes (/imau kastufl) or regular, halved, to serve

Spice Paste
8 candlenuts, roughly chopped
6 em (2 1/ 2 in) fresh turmeric root, peeled and sliced,
or 2 teaspoons ground turmeric
5 em (2 in) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
24 shallots, peeled
10 cloves garlic, peeled
3 tablespoons oil
3 stalks lemongrass, thick bottom third only, outer layers removed,
inner part bruised
5 em (2 in) fresh galangal root, peeled and sliced
8 kaffir lime leaves
2 tablespoons ground coriander

1 Prepare the Lontong, Cnspy Fried Shallots and Sambal Belachan by fol-
lowing the 1nstruct1ons on pages 30 and 31.
2 Place the ch1cken and water in a pot and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes.
3 Wh1le the ch1cken is simmering, make the Spice Paste. Grind the candlenuts,
turmeric, g1nger, shallots and garlic in a blender until fine, adding a little oil if
necessary to keep the blades turn1ng. Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the
ground paste w1th the remaining Spice Paste ingredients for 4 to 5 minutes
until fragrant
4 Add the cooked Sp1ce Paste to the pot with the chicken and continue to
s1mmer for another 20 m1nutes unhl the chicken is cooked. Season with salt
and pepper, and remove from the heat Remove the ch1cken from the stock,
and set as1de to cool When cool enough to handle, debone the ch1cken
and shred the meat 1nto long stnps. Stra1n the stock well, and return 11 to the
pot to keep warm
5 Port1on the noodles, Lontong or cooked nee, chicken stnps, hard-boiled
eggs, bean sprouts and celery leaves 1nto 6 serving bowls. Fill each bowl
w1th the warm stock and garn1sh w1th the Crispy Fried Shallots. Serve hot
w1th a bowl of Sambal Belachan and lime halves on the s1de.

Serves 6 Preparat1on lime 30 m1ns Cooking t1me: 1 hour

44 R1ce and Noodles


Indian Mee Goreng Indian Fried Noodles

Although noodles were brought to Singapore by the Chinese, all the other ethnic groups have enthusiastically
adopted and adapted them to suit their tastes. This spicy dish-which you cannot find in India-is well-bal-
anced by the sweetness of fresh tomatoes and tomato sauce.

4 tablespoons oil 1 Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large wok and stir-fry the tofu cubes over
1 cake firm or pressed tofu (250 g/8 oz medium heat until golden brown, about 7 minutes. Remove from the oil and
total), drained and cubed set aside to drain on paper towels.
6-8 dried chillies, cut into lengths 2 In the same wok, add the rest of the oil and stir-fry 3 to 5 tablespoons of
and soaked in warm water to soften,
the chilli paste or the chilli powder with the garlic and belachan for 3 min-
then ground to a paste, or 3- 5
utes until fragrant. Add the sliced chicken or lamb and stir-fry until it turns
tablespoons chilli powder
opaque, about 3 minutes. Then add the prawns and stir-fry until the prawns
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon belachan (dried prawn are cooked, another 2 minutes.
paste) 3 Add the noodles and chye sim, mix well, and cook for 1 minute. Then add
150 g (5 oz) boneless chicken or the soy sauce, tomato ketchup, salt and chicken stock, and cook for 3 min-
lamb, thinly sliced utes until the liquid is absorbed by the noodles and the mixture is dry.
150 g (5 oz) medium fresh prawns, 4 Push the noodles to one side of the wok with the spatula. Add the eggs and
peeled and deveined scramble. Then stir the noodles and the eggs together until the eggs are
400 g (12 oz) fresh yellow wheat cooked. (Add a little more chicken stock for a moister Mee Goreng.)
noodles (Hokkien mee) 5 Add the onion, tomato, fresh chillies and bean sprouts, and stir-fry for 3
2 cups (200 g) chye sim, washed and
minutes. Then add the fried tofu and mix well until heated through. Season
sliced
with the ground pepper. Garnish with coriander leaves, spring onions, Crispy
2 tablespoons soy sauce
Fried Shallots and serve fresh limes on the side.
3 tablespoons tomato ketchup
1/ teaspoon salt
2
'12 cup (125 ml) chicken stock or Note: If preferred, substitute spinach or cabbage for the chye sim.
1/ teaspoon chicken stock granules
4
dissolved in 1/ 2 cup (125 ml) hot water
2 eggs, beaten Serves 6 Preparat1on lime. 35 mins Cook1ng t1me 15 mins
1 onion, diced
1 tomato, diced, or 2 tablespoons
tomato puree
1 red finger-length chilli, sliced
1 green finger-length chilli, sliced
2 cups (150 g) bean sprouts, seed
coats and tails discarded
'12 teaspoon ground white pepper

Garnishes
Coriander leaves (cilantro) or
Chinese celery, coarsely chopped
Spring onions, sliced (optional)
Crispy Fried Shallots (page 31),
(optional)
Small limes (limau kasturt) , halved

46 R1ce and Noodles


Lontong Sayur Lemak
Vegetables in Coconut Milk with Compressed Rice

Th1s seasoned vegetable stew w1th Lontong is served as part of a ma1n


meal or as a meal on 1ts own for breakfast or lunch.

2 cakes pressed tofu, about 500 g (1 lb), cubed and deep-fried


2 cups (500 ml) thick coconut milk or 1 cup (250 ml) coconut cream
mixed with 1 cup (250 ml) water
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 portion Lontong (page 31 )

Spice Paste
3 tablespoons dried prawns, soaked in water to soften
1 tablespoon ground coriander
2112 em (1 in) fresh galangal root, peeled and sliced
5 em (2 in) fresh turmeric root, peeled and sliced,
or 2 teaspoons ground turmeric
10-15 red finger-length chillies, deseeded and sliced
20 shallots, peeled
10 cloves garlic, peeled
4 tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon belachan (dried prawn paste), roasted (page 22)

Vegetables
1 slender Asian eggplant (about 200 g/7 oz), sliced crosswise
1 carrot, peeled and sliced crosswise
200 g (7 oz) sweet potatoes, jicama or chayote, cut into chunks
20 green beans, cut into lengths

1 Prepare the Lontong by follow1ng the Instructions on page 31 Unwrap the


Lontong from the banana leaf or cheesecloth and slice into chunks Set as1de
2 To make the Sp1ce Paste, gnnd the dned prawns, coriander, galangal,
turmenc, chillies, shallots and garlic in a mortar or blender unt1l f1ne, adding
a little oil if necessary to keep the blades turning. Heat the oil in a wok and
stir-fry the belachan and the ground paste 5 to 7 minutes until fragrant.
Transfer the Sp1ce Paste to a small bowl and set aside.
3 To prepare the Vegetables, bring 3 cups (750 ml) water to a bo111n a pot
and parbOil the vegetables, about 5 minutes. Add the Sp1ce Paste and Sim-
mer for another 5 m1nutes Add the tofu, s1mmer a minute longer, then add
the coconut m1lk or cream Cook, Stirring, until the oil separates from the
m1lk, about 3 to 5 m1nutes Season w1th the salt and pepper, and serve hot
w1th Lontong

Serves 6-8 Preparat1on t1me 25 m1ns Cook1ng hme 25 m1ns

48 R1ce and Noodles


Special Nonya Fried Rice
Th1s vers1on of fned nee from a Nonya kitchen gets 1ts diSIIncllve flavour
from the t1ny dned salted f1sh used by Chinese cooks Smaller than the
usual Malay tkan btlis. they are somet1mes called s1lverf1sh

3 tablespoon s oil
1/ cup (80 g) very small dried salted fish or bits of salted fish
2
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 chicken breast (about 125 g/ 4 oz), diced
150 g (5 oz) medium fresh prawns, peeled and deveined
3 eggs, beaten
4 cups (800 g) cold cooked rice or leftover rice
1 tablespoon soy sauce
11 teaspoon salt
2
11 teaspoon pepper
2
11 teaspoon sesame oil (optional)
4
1 cup (75 g) bean sprouts
2 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 Heat the 0111n a wok and stir-fry the dned salted fish until brown and
cnspy Remove from the 011 and set aside to dra1n
2 In the same wok. gently st1r-lry the garlic lor a lew seconds, then add the
ch1cken and prawns. and st1r-fry for 3 to 4 m1nutes Increase the heat and add
the eggs, shrnng unt1l the eggs are cooked.
3 Add the nee and st1r-lry over h1gh heat until the nee IS heated through Then
add the rest of the 1ngred1ents and stir-fry lor another 3 m1nutes Add the
cnspy S1lverf1sh or salted l1sh and stir to m1x well. Serve immediately

Note Leftover nee kept overn1ght is preferred for any fried rice d1sh, as 11
is dner and f1rmer, and Will result in a better textured fried nee d1sh.

Serves 4 Preparalion lime 15 m1ns Cook1ng time: 10 m1ns

Honey Barbecued Chicken Wings


1 kg (2 lbs) chicken wings (about 10 large chicken wings)
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons rice wine or sherry
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon black soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/ teaspoon salt (optional)
4

M1x all the 1ngred1ents 1n a large bowl, cover and mannate 1n the relngerator
lor 6 hours or overn1ght Cook over hot charcoal, under a broiler or 1n a pre-
heated oven at 220 C (440 F) for 10 to 20 minutes until the ch1cken 1s
cooked and golden brown

Serves 4 Prepara11on t1me 10 m1ns + mannat1on lime Cook1ng lime 20 m1ns

50 R1ce and Snacks


Popiah Hokkien-style Fresh Spring Rolls

Hokkien-style Popiah are normally made using very thin fresh wrappers made from rice and wheat fl our and
water. Assemble Popiah just before serving, as otherwise they go soggy, or place all the prepared ingredients on
the table and allow your guests to create their own in an informal gathering . A Popiah party is always a big hit!

1 tablespoon oil 1 First prepare the Popiah Wrappers by sifting the flours and salt together
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed into a bowl. In another bowl, mix the eggs, oil and water. Add the flour mix-
2 shallots, sliced ture a little at time, mixing well to obtain a smooth batter. Set the batter
1 medium bangkuang Qicama) (about aside in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
600 g/20 oz), peeled and sliced into
2 Grease a nonstick pan with oil. Ladle 2 tablespoons of the batter onto the
matchsticks
pan and swirl it quickly to make a very thin pancake. Cook over medium
1f 4 teaspoon five spice powder
1/ teaspoon sugar heat until the batter sets, about 2 minutes. Place the cooked wrapper on a
2
3/ teaspoon salt plate. Repeat until all the batter is used up.
4
1/ teaspoon freshly ground white 3 To prepare the filling, heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the garlic, shallots
2
pepper and bangkuang over medium heat for 5 minutes until the bangkuang is soft.
6 soft lettuce leaves, washed and Season with the five spice powder, sugar, salt and pepper. Set aside to cool.
dried 4 To assemble, place a fresh Popiah Wrapper on a plate. Place a lettuce
1 tablespoon sweet black sauce leaf on the wrapper and smear a little of the sweet black sauce and minced
10 cloves garlic, minced garlic on it. Then add a little of the chilli paste or sliced chilli and shallot.
4 red finger-length chillies, deseeded Strain 2 heaping tablespoons of the bangkuang filling between two spoons
and ground to a paste with 1f4 tea-
to press out the liquid, and place it on the lettuce. Add a sprinkling of bean
spoon salt, or 1 red finger-length
sprouts, crabmeat, prawns, egg and Chinese sausage. Tuck in the sides of
chilli, sliced
the wrapper and roll it up firmly. Repeat with the rest of the wrappers and
1 shallot, minced
2/ cup (50 g) bean sprouts, rinsed filling to make another 5 Popiah. Halve or slice each Popiah into 3 pieces
3
and blanched in boiling water and serve.
1/ cup (60 g) cooked crabmeat
2
250 g (8 oz) medium fresh prawns,
Note: If it's too time-consuming to prepare fresh Popiah Wrappers, you may
peeled, deveined, halved lengthwise
be able to find packets of Popiah Wrappers in the refrigerator or freezer
and poached for 1 minute
section in some supermarkets. Or substitute Filipino lumpia wrappers
1 hard-boiled egg, halved lengthwise
then sliced crosswise
lightly cooked in a nonstick pan with a little oil, or burrito wrappers. If you
1 sweet dried Chinese sausage (lap cannot find bangkuang Gicama), you may substitute a mixture of daikon
cheong) , thinly sliced and blanched radish and cabbage, both very thinly sliced .
in hot water

Makes 6 Popiah Preparation lime: 35 mins + 10 mins assembling time


Popiah Wrappers
1/ cup (75 g) rice flour Cooking time: 45 mins
2
11/2 tablespoons plain flour
1/ teaspoon salt
4
2 eggs
1/ teaspoon oil
2
1 cup (250 ml) water

52 Appetisers and Snacks


Pork Satay with Pineapple Sauce Sate Babi

Skewers of seasoned meat or ch1cken grilled over charcoal1s one of Singapore's most popular dishes. Th1s
local Chinese vers1on is made with pork and served w1th a rich peanut sauce flavoured w1th crushed p1neapple

500 g (1 lb) pork fillet, cut into bite- 1 Prepare the P1neapple Salay Sauce by following the Instructions on page 30
sized cubes 2 To make the Mannade, grind all the Ingredients in a mortar or blender,
18 bamboo skewers adding the oil to keep the blades turn1ng Rub the Mannade 1nto the pork
1 portion Pineapple Salay Sauce
cubes and set asrde to mannate for 2 hours. In the meantrme, soak the
(page 30)
skewers rn cold water to prevent them from burnrng dunng gnlling.
Marinade
3 Thread 3 pork cubes onto each bamboo skewer untrl all the meat and
1112 tablespoons coriander seeds, skewers are used up. Then brush wrth a little oil and cook over hot charcoal
or 2 teaspoons ground coriander or under a broiler, turning from time to time and brushing with more oil, until
2 teaspoons brown sugar the meat is browned evenly on the outsrde and well cooked on the insrde,
1 em (1/2 in) fresh turmeric root, about 5 to 7 mrnutes Serve with a bowl of the Pineapple Salay Sauce and, if
peeled and sliced, or 1/ 2 teaspoon desired, chunks of fresh pineapple, cucumber and raw onrons or shallots on
ground turmeric the srde.
1 teaspoon salt
1 stalk lemongrass, thick bottom part Makes 18 skewers Preparatron trme: 40 mrns + marinatron lime
only, outer layers removed, inner Cooking lime 20 mrns
part sliced
4 tablespoons oil

54
Malay Chicken Satay Sate Ayam
The tantahs1ng aroma of seasoned meat roasting over a charcoal f1re. ano1nted from t1me to time w1th a "brush"
of fragrant lemongrass oil , IS 1rres1stible. It's no wonder th1s d1sh IS an all-t1me favounte

4 chicken legs, deboned and cut into 1 Prepare the Satay Sauce by follow1ng the Instructions on page 30.
2-cm (3/4-in) cubes 2 To make the Spice Paste, gnnd the 1ngred1ents 1n a mortar or blender,
12 skewers soaked in water for 1 hour adding the oil to keep the blades turn1ng M1x the paste w1th the chicken
1 stalk lemongrass, thick end bruised, cubes and mannate for at least 12 hours
for brushing 3 Thread 4 to 5 p1eces of the ch1cken onto each skewer unt1l all the ch1cken
Oil for basting p1eces are used up Gnll the chicken over a hot charcoal lire or under a
1 portion Satay Sauce (page 30)
bro1ler. constantly brush1ng w1th the stalk of lemongrass d1pped 1n the 011
Turn the skewers frequently to prevent the meat from burn1ng The ch1cken
Spice Paste
should be evenly browned on the outs1de and JUSt cooked on the 1ns1de
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
2 stalks lemongrass, thick bottom 4 Serve w1th a bowl of Salay Sauce and sliced cucumber raw onron and
third only, outer layers removed, Lontong or boiled nee on the s1de
inner part sliced
5 shallots, peeled Note: Ketupat are compressed nee cakes sim11ar to Lontong (page 31)
2 cloves garlic, peeled They are cooked 1n beautifully woven cases of coconut leaves or daun palas
1/ teaspoon chilli powder
2 (see photo above). The nee takes the shape of the case and 1s usually
2 tablespoons sugar
1/ teaspoon salt
served quartered. These traditional fest1ve cakes dress every table during
2
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
Malay celebrations 1n Singapore.
2 tablespoons oil
Makes 12 strcks Preparatron trme 30 mrns + marrnatron trme
Cooking trme 10 mrns

Appetrsers and Snacks 55


Fruit and Vegetable Rojak Salad with Spicy Peanut Sauce

An unusual salad of tropical fruits and raw vegetables drenched in a pungent peanut sauce. Hay koh (fermented
prawn sauce), sometimes referred to by its Indonesian name. petis. makes all the diHerence to this dish.

1 unripe mango (about 200 g/7oz) , 1 To make the Peanut Rojak Sauce, grind all the ingredients in a mortar or
peeled, pitted and sliced blender until fine and set aside.
1/ fresh pineapple (about 250 g/8 oz),
4 2 Place the prepared mango, pineapple and lime in a mixing bowl, add a
sliced into small chunks
little Peanut Rojak Sauce and mix well. Then add the bangkuang, kangkung ,
1 small lime (/imau kastun), thinly
cucumber, bean sprouts and a little more Sauce, and mix well again.
sliced
Repeat with the tofu, crullers and ginger bud. Top with a generous helping
1 bangkuang (jicama) (500 g/1 lb),
peeled and sliced
of crushed peanuts, if using, and serve. Alternatively, spoon the Peanut
250 g (8 oz) kangkung (water Rojak Sauce onto individual serving plates and arrange the prepared fruits,
spinach), washed well, tough bot- vegetables, tofu and crullers over it. Serve garnished with ginger bud and
tom of stems discarded, tender roasted peanuts, if using (see photo) .
stems and leaves blanched in boil-
ing water and drained
Note: Chinese crullers (yu tiaow) are 2 long sticks of dough stuck together
1 small cucumber, sliced
2 cups (150 g) bean sprouts, rinsed
and then deep-fried. Sometimes called Chinese doughnuts (yu char kway),
and blanched in boiling water they are savoury rather than sweet and are traditionally eaten with rice
4 cakes deep-fried tofu or aburage porridge (congee). They are available in Asian fresh markets. Omit if unavail-
(about 50 g/2 oz), cubed able. Hay koh (fermented prawn sauce) has a strong fishy taste and takes
2 Chinese crullers, cut into 6-8 some getting used to. It is sold in jars in supermarkets and provision shops.
pieces (optional, see note)
1 wild ginger bud, very thinly sliced
(optional) Serves 6 Preparation t1me· 30 m1ns
Roasted peanuts, coarsely crushed,
to garnish (optional)

Peanut Rojak Sauce


1 cup (100 g) roasted unsalted
peanuts, skins removed, or 10
heaped tablespoons crunchy
peanut butter
1/ teaspoon belachan (dried prawn
2
paste), roasted (page 22)
3-5 red finger-length chillies,
deseeded and sliced
2 chili padi (bird's-eye chillies) ,
deseeded and sliced (optional)
3 tablespoons hay koh (fermented
prawn sauce)
2 heaped tablespoons tamarind pulp
mashed with 1/ 2 cup (125 ml) warm
water, squeezed and strained to
obtain juice
2- 3 tablespoons shaved palm sugar
1/ teaspoon salt
2

Appetisers and Snacks 57


Tauhu Goreng
Deep-fried Tofu Salad with Spicy Peanut Dressing

A popular d1sh at food stalls 1n S1ngapore, especially in the morn1ng, the


!ned tofu IS usually halved diagonally and stuffed w1th a m1xture of
blanched bean sprouts and raw cucumber, and dnzzled w1th a dehc1ous
Sp1cy Peanut Dress1ng

2 cakes pressed tofu or firm tofu (about 500 g/1 lb total)


Oil for shallow-frying (about 3 tablespoons)
1 cup (75 g) bean sprouts, rinsed and blanched in boiling water, then drained
1 small cucumber, sliced into thin shreds
2 spring onions, sliced into thin shreds, to garnish (optional)
Coriander leaves (cilantro), to garnish (optional)

Spicy Peanut Dressing


2 tablespoons oil
8 shallots, sliced
5 cloves garlic, sliced
2- 5 red finger-length chillies, deseeded and sliced
1/ teaspoon be/achan (dried prawn paste)
2
2 tablespoons sweet black sauce
2 heaped tablespoons tamarind pulp mashed with 1 cup (250 ml) warm water,
squeezed and strained for juice
1 cup (175 g) coarsely crushed fried or roasted peanuts,
or 10 heaped tablespoons crunchy peanut butter

1 To prepare the Sp1cy Peanut Dress1ng, heat the oil 1n a saucepan and stir-
fry the shallots, garlic, chillies and belachan for 5 m1nutes until fragrant
Then add the sweet black sauce and tamarind JUICe, and cook for another
m1nute Remove from the heat and set as1de to cool. When cooled, gnnd the
m~xture to a paste 1n a mortar or blender Add the crushed peanuts or
peanut butter and m1x well
2 Shallow-fry the tofu 1n about 1 em (1/ 2 1n) of oil over med1um heat in a skil-
let until light golden brown, about 3 minutes on each side. Remove from the
oil and set aside to dra1n and cool. When cool enough to handle, cut the
tofu 1nto bite-sized p1eces.
3 To assemble, arrange the bean sprouts, cucumber and spring onions (1!
us1ng) on a plate Top with the !ned tofu and pour the dressing over Serve
garn1shed w1th conander leaves Alternatively, serve the dress1ng in a small
bowl on the s1de w1th another bowl of freshly sliced spnng on~ons 1! des1red

Note To save t1me, prepare the Sp1cy Peanut Dressing in advance If sweet
black sauce 1s not available, substitute black SCI'f sauce sweetened With sugar

Serves 4 Preparat1on lime 20 mms Cooking lime. 10 m1ns

58 Appelisers and Snacks


Murtabak Indian Flatbread Stuffed with Spicy Minced Meat and Onion

An Indian Muslim dish universally loved in Singapore, Murtabak is a feather-light pancake filled with minced
meat and fried on a hot griddle. Mutton would be the usual choice in Singapore, although lamb, beef or chicken
may be used instead. The texture of the dough is light and crispy, the filling wonderfully satisfying-great as an
appetiser or a late-night snack.

3 tablespoons ghee or oil for frying 1 To make the Dough, mix all the ingredients, except the butter, in a bowl
Thinly sliced red or green finger- and knead for 10 minutes to form a smooth Dough. Roll the Dough into a
length chillies (optional) ball, place in a dry bowl, cover and set aside to rest in a warm place for at
least 1 hour.
Dough
2 To prepare the Filling, heat the oil in a wok or skillet and stir-fry the garlic
3 cups {450 g) plain flour
and onions until they are transparent and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the
Scant 1f2 cup (125 ml) fresh milk
minced meat, curry powder, turmeric and chilli powder, and stir-fry for
Scant 1/ 2 cup (125 ml) water
1 egg, lightly beaten
another 2 to 3 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper. Remove from the
1/ teaspoon sugar heat and set aside to cool. Once the meat mixture has cooled, add the leek
2
1/ teaspoon salt
2
or celery and beaten eggs. and mix well. Set aside.
2 teaspoons softened butter 3 Half an hour before serving, portion the Dough into 6 equal parts and
knead each portion with a little softened butter until smooth. Shape each
Filling portion into a ball and set aside again. Roll out each portion of Dough as
2 tablespoons oil thinly as possible and cover with a cloth.
10 cloves garlic, minced 4 Heat a heavy iron griddle or large skillet until very hot and grease with a
2 onions, diced
little ghee or oil. Place the rolled out Dough on the griddle, reduce the heat to
2 cups {500 g/1 lb) minced lamb,
medium and cook for 1 minute. Then spread one-sixth of the Filling over the
chicken or beef
Dough. Fold over two opposite sides of the Dough, overlapping slightly, and
1112 tablespoons meat curry powder
repeat with the other two sides to make a small rectangular package enclosing
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/ teaspoon chilli powder the Filling. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes until the Dough is golden brown, then
2
1/ teaspoon salt flip it over and cook on the other side. Remove from the heat and set aside
2
1/ teaspoon ground white pepper
4
to cool on a serving platter. Repeat with the remaining Dough and Filling.
1 stalk Chinese leek or celery, very 5 Garnish the Murtabak with sliced chillies if using. Serve hot with a bowl of
thinly sliced your favourite curry sauce on the side and chase with hot coffee or tea.
6 eggs, lightly beaten

Note: The trick to making a good crispy Murtabak is for the Dough to be
as thin as possible when cooked, so that it lightly encloses the Filling like
a wafer-thin wrapper. Indian chefs twirl the Dough in the air to achieve this.
To accompany the Murtabak and curry, serve a refreshing side dish of
Cucumber and Onion Achar. Slice 1/ 2 cucumber and 1 onion, sprinkle 1/ 4
teaspoon salt ancf set aside in a colander for 1 hour to drain. Then rinse
and pat dry to remove as much moisture as possible. Refresh the cucumber
and onion with a dash of fresh lime or lemon juice and serve.

Makes 6 Murtabak Preparat1on t1me: 30 m1ns Cook1ng t1me: 1 hour

Appetisers and Snacks 61


Singapore Chilli Crab
Another Singapore original-a spicy and sweet tomato sauce, enhancing the delicious taste of fresh crabs. Sold
in hawker centres and seafood restaurants in the country, and not to be missed when visiting the island state.

3 fresh crabs (about 21/2 kg/5 lbs total) 1 Clean and quarter the crabs, cracking the pincers to allow the flavours to
Oil for deep-frying penetrate. Pat dry, then deep-fry the crabs in 2 batches in hot oil in a wok
1 cup (250 ml) chicken stock or 1/ 4 for 3 minutes until the shells turn bright red. Remove from the heat and set
teaspoon chicken stock granules aside to drain.
dissolved in 1 cup (250 ml) hot water 2 To make the Sauce, drain the oil in the wok and pour 4 tablespoons of
1 egg, lightly beaten
fresh oil into 11. Stir-fry the garlic, onion. ginger. black bean paste and chillies
1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in
over high heat until fragrant, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, chilli
3 tablespoons water
1/ teaspoon salt sauce, tomato ketchup, sesame oil, soy sauce and sugar, and mix well.
2
1 teaspoon white pepper Then reduce the !heat and simmer for 1 minute. Add the chilli powder, if
1 spring onion, thinly sliced, to garnish using, and season with the pepper.
3 Return the crabs to the wok and toss to coat with the Sauce. Add the
Sauce chicken stock and cook over high heat for 3 minutes. Add the egg and corn-
4 tablespoons oil starch, and stir until the Sauce thickens, about 1 minute. Season with the salt
8 cloves garlic, minced and pepper. Garnish with the freshly sliced spring onion and serve immediately.
1 large onion, diced
5 em (2 in) young ginger, sliced Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 30 m1ns Cooking t1me: 15 mins
2 teaspoons black bean paste (tau
cheo)
3-5 red finger-length chillies,
deseeded and sliced
2 tomatoes, diced
4 tablespoons sweet bottled chilli sauce
4 tablespoons bottled tomato ketchup
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon chilli powder (optional)
1/ teaspoon ground white pepper
2

Black Pepper Crab or Crayfish


1 cup (250 ml) olive oil for stir-frying 1 Heat half of the olive oil in a wok over high heat and stir-fry half of the
2 kg (4 lbs) fresh crabs, crayfish, crabs or crayfish for 3 minutes. Cover, and cook for 8 minutes until the
spiny or rock lobster, or large shells change colour. Remove the cooked shellfish from the oil and set
prawns, halved lengthwise aside to drain. Thien repeat with the second batch.
1 spring onion, thinly sliced, to garnish
2 To make the Sauce, heat the butter and 2 teaspoons oil in a wok over low
heat. add the garlic and ginger, and saute gently until golden brown, about 3
Sauce
to 5 minutes. Add the chillies and saute for another 2 minutes. Add the oys-
5 tablespoons butter
7 cloves garlic, minced
ter sauce, both soy sauces and sugar, and simmer over low heat for 30
2 1/ 2 em (1 in) fresh ginger, peeled seconds, then season with the pepper.
and slivered 3 Cook until the Sauce thickens, about 1 to 2 minutes, then return the shell-
7 red finger-length chillies, deseeded fish to the wok. Toss to coat well with the Sauce and cook for another 2
and thinly sliced minutes. Serve hot garnished with the freshly sliced spring onion.
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce Serves 4-6 Preparat1on lime· 25 m1ns Cook1ng t1me: 20 m1ns
2 teaspoons black soy sauce
4 teaspoons sugar
3 tablespoons crushed black pepper

62 Seafood
Teochew Steamed Fish
1 whole pomfret or other white fish, 1 Clean the fish and pat it dry thoroughly. Mix the Seasonings in a large
about 750 g-1 kg (11/2-2 lbs), bowl until the sugar is completely dissolved. Add all the other ingredients to
or 4-6 fish fillets (about 1 kg/2 lbs) the bowl and mix well.
1/ cup (50 g) pickled mustard cab-
4 2 Place the fish on a plate or tray that fits inside a steamer or wok that can be
bage (kiam chye) , soaked drained
covered. Spread the Seasoning mixture over the fish. Cover the steamer or
and thinly sliced (see note)
wok and steam the fish over rapidly boiling water for 10 to 15 minutes until
1 medium tomato, cut into thin wedges
the fish is cooked. Do not overcook or the texture of the fish will be spoiled.
5 em (2 in) fresh ginger, peeled and
thinly sliced
1 red finger-length chilli, deseeded Note: Pickled mustard cabbage (kiam chye) is slightly sour and extremely
and thinly sliced lengthwise salty. This heavily salted pickled cabbage needs to be soaked in fresh
3 or 4 salted plums (see note)
water for at least 15 minutes to remove some of the saltiness. Salted
1 spring onion, cut into lengths
plums are lightly pickled in brine and sold in jars. They are sour and the
(optional)
seeds need to be removed before using. The Japanese version
2 dried black Chinese mushrooms,
soaked in water to soften, stems is called umeboshi.
discarded, caps sliced
1f4 cup (60 g) pork, very thinly sliced
Serves 4--6 Preparation time: 15 mins Cooking ltme. 15 m1ns
(optional)

Seasonings
1/ cup (60 ml) chicken stock or
4
1f4 teaspoon chicken stock granules
dissolved in 1f4 cup (60 ml) hot water
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon Garlic Oil (page 31)
1 teaspoon rice wine
1/ teaspoon sugar
2
1/ teaspoon sesame oil
4

Oyster Omelette Orr Chien

8-10 large fresh oysters 1 To make the Chilli Vinegar Dip, mix all the ingredients in a small bowl and
1 tablespoon tapioca starch set aside.
1f2 tablespoon rice flour 2 Rinse the oysters and drain well to get rid of any sand or grit. Combine
4 tablespoons water the tapioca starch, rice flour and water in a bowl to make a thin batter.
2 tablespoons oil
3 Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat until very hot and add 1 tablespoon
3 eggs, beaten
of the oil. Add the batter and cook for 15 seconds, then add the eggs and
2 cloves garlic, minced
scramble with the batter. When the eggs are almost cooked, push all the
1 tablespoon rice wine
1 tablespoon soy sauce ingredients to one side of the pan . Add the remaining oil and stir-fry the gar-
Ground white pepper lic for a few seconds, then mix everything together and stir-fry for 2 minutes.
Coriander leaves (cilantro), to garnish Add the rice wine, soy sauce, pepper and oysters, and continue to cook long
enough to heat through, about 1 minute. Serve hot, garnished with fresh
Chilli Vinegar Dip coriander leaves and dipping bowls of the Chilli Vinegar Dip on the side.
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
4 teaspoons chilli powder
4 teaspoons water Note: Tapioca starch is made from ground tapioca root. It is used as a thick-
2 teaspoon soy sauce ening agent for soups. Substitute cornflour.
1/ teaspoon salt
2
1/ teaspoon sugar
2
Serves 4 Preparation t1me: 10 mtns Cooktng time: 10 mtns

64 Seafood
Fish Head Curry
A cook who came to S1ngapore from the southwestern lnd1an state of
Kerala. where th1s d1sh IS unheard of, created Fish Head Curry back 1n the
1950s Its populanty spread qu1ckly and now there are dozens of d1Herent
versions of this d1sh

1 large fresh fish head (red snapper, threadfin or sea bream) , about 1- 1 1/ 4 kg
(2- 2 1/ 2 lbs), halved lengthwise and rinsed
2 heaped tablespoons tamarind pulp mashed with 1/ 2 cup (125 ml) warm water,
squeezed and strained for juice
10 small okra (about 150 g/5 oz total), stalks discarded
1 slender Asian eggplant (about 200 g/7 oz), cut into 6 pieces
2 tomatoes, cut into wedges
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar

Curry Sauce
2 stalks lemongrass, thick bottom third only, outer layers removed,
inner part sliced
2'/2 em (1 in) fresh turmeric root, peeled and sliced,
or 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
5 em (2 in) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
10 red finger-length chillies, deseeded and sliced
20 shallots, peeled
10 cloves garlic, peeled
4 tablespoons oil
1/ teaspoon brown mustard seeds
2
1/ teaspoon fenugreek seeds
2
1 sprig curry leaves, rinsed
5 tablespoons fish curry powder or plain curry powder
2 cups (500 ml) water
2 cups (500 ml) thick coconut milk or 1 cup (250 ml) coconut cream mixed
with 1 cup (250 ml) water
1 teaspoon salt

1 To prepare the Curry Sauce. gnnd the lemongrass, turmenc, g1nger, ch1111es,
shallots and garlic 1n a mortar or blender until fine, adding a little oil 1f neces-
sary to keep the blades turn1ng
2 Heat the 011 1n a wok over med1um h1gh heat and stir-fry the mustard
seeds unlllthey pop, about 1 m1nute Add the ground 1ngred1ents, fenu-
greek seeds and curry leaves, and slir-fry until fragrant, about 5 to 7 min-
utes Add the curry powder and cook for another 2 m1nutes Add 1 cup (250
ml) of the water and Simmer for 2 m1nutes. Then add the rema1ning water,
coconut m1lk and the fish head, season With the salt and bnng to a boil
3 Add the tamannd ju1ce to the wok and continue to simmer. uncovered,
until the f1sh IS almost cooked. about 10 minutes. Add the okra and egg-
plant and s1mmer until cooked about 5 to 7 minutes Add the tomatoes and
season w1th the salt and sugar Serve hot with freshly cooked wh1te nee

Note If you've never eaten a fish head before, you might be a little cautious
about trying 11 Be assured that 1t adds a special sweetness and texture to
the curry. The flesh, espec1ally from the cheek pockets, is soft and delicious

Serves 4 6 Preparation lime 25 m1ns Cooking lime. 30 m1ns

66 Seafood
Barbecued Stingray lkan Pari Panggang

St1ngray was an inexpens1ve and largely ignored fish until relatively


recently, when this excellent way of cooking it-slathered with Chilli
Samba!, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled over hot charcoal-filtered
down from neighbouring Malaysia. Needless to say, the price of stingray
has nsen with the popularity of this dish. Any other firm white fish like
swordfish or mahi-mahi may also be used with delicious results.

1 kg (2 lbs) stingray or any other firm white fish fillets, cut into 4 serving pieces
1f4 teaspoon salt
1/ teaspoon white pepper
2
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 large banana leaf sheets or aluminum foil (30 cm/12 in square)
Small limes (limau kasturt) , halved, to serve

Chilli Sambal
5 red finger-length chillies, deseeded and sliced
3 chili padi (bird's-eye chillies), deseeded and sliced
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon oil
1/ tablespoon tomato ketchup
2
1f2 tablespoon dried prawns, soaked to soften, then drained
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1/ tablespoon sugar
4
Pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 To make the Chilli Sambal , grind the chillies and garlic to a paste in a
mortar or blender, adding a little oil if necessary to keep the blades turning.
Heat the oil 1n a wok over low heat and stir-fry the ground paste, tomato
ketchup and dried prawns for 5 to 7 m1nutes. Add the lime juice, sugar, salt
and pepper, and stir-fry until the sugar dissolves, about 2 m1nutes Remove
from the heat and set as1de to cool
2 Wash the stingray or fish fillets and pat dry with paper towels. Season with
the salt, pepper and lime juice, and set aside to marinate for 15 to 20 minutes.
3 Soften the banana leaves by scalding them with boiling water in a tub or
pot for 10 seconds. Drain the leaves and shake dry. Then spoon some Chilli
Samba! onto each banana leaf (or aluminium foil sheet) and place 2 pieces
of stingray or fish on each one Spoon more Chilli Samba! on the stingray or
f1sh and rub it into the flesh Fold both s1des of the banana leaves (or alu-
m1n1um foil) over to form a packet and fasten with toothpicks
4 Grill over a low charcoal fire or under a grill for 5 m1nutes on each s1de. To
serve, place the package on a plate and open. Serve hot with limes halves
on the side.

Note: Banana leaves give a special flavour and texture to food when cooking.
An alternative is to wrap the fish 1n aluminum foil, although the flavour of
the d1sh will not be quite the same.

Serves 4 Preparation 11me 25 m1ns Cook1ng 11me. 20 m1ns

68 Seafood
Deep-fried Baby Squid Satang Goreng

This sweet, crunchy Singaporean seafood creation has been embraced by generations of discerning local diners.
It also makes an excellent appetiser or cocktail snack.

500 g (1 lb) baby squid (each about 1 Combine the Marinade ingredients in a bowl and mix to d1ssolve the
4-5 cm/1,/ 2- 2 in long) sugar. Wash and dry the squ1d thoroughly, but do not remove the tentacles
3 tablespoons cornstarch or skins. Season the squid w1th the Marinade and set aside to marinate
1 egg, lightly beaten while preparing the Sauce.
Oil for deep-frying
2 To make the Sauce, heat the oil in a wok or saucepan over medium heat
and add all the Sauce ingredients, except the cornstarch. Stir to mix well
Marinade
and bring to a boil, then add the cornstarch and simmer over low heat, stir-
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
ring, until the Sauce thickens and clears, about 1 to 2 minutes.
1/ teaspoon sesame oil 3 Dredge the marinated squid lightly in the cornstarch and dip into the egg.
2
Heat the oil in a wok or large saucepan and deep-fry the squid until crispy
Sauce and golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the oil and set aside
1 tablespoon oil to drain . Then qu1ckly toss the squid in the Sauce to coal well and serve
2 tablespoons honey while still hot.
1 tablespoon bottled tomato ketchup
2 teaspoons each Worcestershire
sauce, fresh lime juice, sweet bot- Note: If baby squids are not available, substitute small fresh cuttlefish sliced
tled chilli sauce and soy sauce thinly into 1;2 em (1/4 in) rings.
1/ teaspoon sesame oil
2
1/ teaspoon black soy sauce
2
1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with Serves 6 Preparallon lime 15 m1ns Cook1ng t1me: 10 m1ns
2 tablespoons water

Fried Fish with Spicy Prawn Sambal


1 kg (2 lbs) sole or other white fish 1 Clean the f1sh thoroughly. Season with the salt and pepper and set aside.
fillets 2 To make the Sauce, grind the dried prawns, chillies. shallots. garlic and
1/ teaspoon salt
2 belachan to a paste in a mortar or blender, adding a l1ttle oil if necessary to
1/ teaspoon ground white pepper
4 keep the blades turn1ng. Heat 1 tablespoon of the 011 1n a wok over low heat
Oil for deep-frying
and gently stir-fry the ground paste, lemongrass and sugar for 5 minutes
until the sugar is completely dissolved. Add the soy sauce and sesame oil ,
Sauce
and st1r to m1x well. Remove the Sauce from the heat and set aside.
1 heaped tablespoon dried prawns,
soaked in water to soften, drained
3 Heat the oil1n a wok over high heat and once the oil is hot, deep-fry the
4 red finger-length chillies, deseeded seasoned fish fille·ts until light golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove
and sliced from the oil, drain and place on a platter. Drizzle the Sauce over the fish and
4 shallots, peeled serve hot, or serve the Sauce in a small bowl on the s1de.
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons be/achan (dried prawn Serves 4 Preparat1on lime· 15 m1ns Cook1ng t1me 10 m1ns
paste) , roasted (page 22)
1 stalk lemongrass, thick bottom
third only, outer layers removed,
inner part bruised
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil

Seafood 71
Golden Prawns with Sweet Spicy Sauce
1 kg (2 lbs) large fresh prawns 1 Peel and devein the prawns, discarding the heads and shells. Place the
2 tablespoons fresh lime ju ice prawns in a bowl, add the lime juice, salt and pepper, and mix well. Set
1/ teaspoon salt
4 aside for 10 minutes. Then rinse and pat dry with paper towels. Dust the
1/ teaspoon pepper
4 prawns lightly with flour. Heat the oil in a wok and deep-fry the prawns for 1
Flour, for dusting
to 2 minutes until golden. Remove from the oil and set aside to drain.
Oil for deep-frying
2 To make the Sweet Spicy Sauce, grind the galangal, ginger, shallots and
Carrot, shredded, to garnish
Cucumber, shredded, to garnish garlic to a paste in a mortar or blender, adding a little oil if necessary to
keep the blades turning. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat and
Sweet Spicy Sauce stir-fry the paste for 5 to 8 minutes. until fragrant. Add the remaining sauce
2 em (3/4 in) fresh galangal root, ingredients, reduce the heat and simmer until it thickens, about 10 minutes.
peeled and sliced Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. When cooled, grind the sauce
1 em ( 1/ 2 in) fresh ginger, peeled and in a blender for a few seconds, then strain into a bowl.
sliced 3 Toss the prawns in the Sweet Sp1cy Sauce until well coated and serve with
3 shallots, peeled a mix of freshly shredded carrot and cucumber on the side.
5 cloves garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon oil
5- 7 red finger-length chillies, deseed- Note: To prepare Palm Sugar Syrup, bring 1/ 2 cup {100 g) shaved palm
ed and thinly sliced sugar and 1/ 2 cup {125 ml) water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add a
5 tablespoons Palm Sugar Syrup pandanus leaf or a drop of pandanus essence to the water, if desired. Then
(see note) or honey reduce the heat and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes until the liquid
4 heaped tablespoons (1 00 g) thickens and becomes syrupy. Strain, discard the pandanus leaf (if using).
tamarind pulp mashed with 1 cup
(250 ml) warm water, squeezed and
strained for juice Serves 4--6 Preparation time: 20 m1ns Cook1ng t1me 15 m1ns

Coconut Ginger Prawns with Lemongrass Curry


1 kg (2 lbs) large fresh prawns 1 Remove the heads and shells from the prawns. Gently devein the prawns
2 1/2 em (1 in) fresh ginger, peeled and set aside. Reserve the prawn heads and shells to make the Sauce.
and sliced into very thin shreds 2 To prepare the Sauce, grind the turmeric, ginger, chillies, shallots and garlic
1n a mortar or blender until fine, adding a little oil if necessary to keep the
Sauce
blades turning .
5 em (2 in) fresh turmeric root,
3 Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the ground paste with the reserved prawn
peeled and sliced, or 1 teaspoon
ground turmeric
heads and shells, lemongrass and lime leaves over medium heat for 5 to 7
8 em (3 in) fresh ginger, peeled and m1nutes. When the prawn shells are pink, add the water and simmer for 5
sliced minutes. Then add the coconut milk and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat
8 red finger-length chillies, deseeded and simmer, uncovered, over low heat for 10 minutes. Season with the salt
and sliced and pepper.
15 shallots, peeled 4 Remove from the heat and strain the Sauce well. Discard the solids and
10 cloves garlic, peeled return the Sauce to the pan. Add the prawns and shredded ginger, and sim-
2 tablespoons oil mer gently until the prawns are pink, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately
3 stalks lemongrass, thick bottom with freshly cooked rice.
third only, outer layers removed,
inner part bruised
Serves 4- 6 Preparation t1me: 25 mins Cook1ng time: 25 mins
5 kaffir lime leaves
1 cup (250 ml) water
1 cup (250 ml) thick coconut milk or
1/ cup (1 25 ml) coconut cream
2
mixed with 1/ 2 cup (125 ml) water
1/ teaspoon salt
2
1f2 teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper

Seafood 73
Tandoori Baked Fish Macchi Tandoori
Tandoori ch1cken. mannated 1n an exot1c blend of sp1ces and roasted m a spec1al clay oven or tandoor, is a
North Indian classic that is very popular 1n Singapore Th1s vers1on IS prepared w1th f1sh. wh1ch goes very well
w1th Cucumber Raila (see rec1pe below).

700 g (1 1/ 2 lbs) white fish fillets 1 Rub the fish fillets w1th the lemon JUice and set aside
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 To make the Tandoon Paste. dry-roast the conander and cum1n seeds 1n a
1 tablespoon ghee or melted butter, sk1llet over low heat until fragrant, about 2 m1nutes Set as1de to cool When
to baste cooled, gnnd the roasted seeds. g1nger, garhc and ch1lhes 1n a mortar or
Lime or lemon, cut into wedges, to
blender. add1ng a little yogurt 1f necessary to keep the blades turning Add
serve
the yogurt and season w1th the sugar, salt and pepper M1x well
Tandoori Paste
3 Rub the fish fillets w1th the Tandoori Paste and set aside to mannate for at
1 tablespoon coriander seeds least an hour
2 teaspoons cumin seeds 4 Preheat the oven to 200 C (400°F). Place the fish on a rack with a bak1ng
2 em (3/4 in) fresh ginger, peeled and tray directly below and bake in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes. basting from
sliced t1me to t1me w1th the ghee or melted butter. Serve hot w1th Cucumber R81ta
3 cloves garlic, peeled and hme or lemon wedges on the side.
3 red finger-length chillies, deseeded
1/ cup (125 ml) plain yogurt
2 Serves 4-6 Preparat1on t1me· 15 m1ns + mannat1on t1me Cook1ng t1me 20 m1ns
1/ teaspoon sugar
4
1/ teaspoon salt
2
1/ teaspoon ground white pepper
2

Cucumber Raita Cucumber in Yogurt Dressing


Ra1ta . a soothing yogurt-based s1de dish, is an excellent fo1l to any spicy lndtan d1sh Although often made w1th a
w1de vanety of vegetables and even bananas. Cucumber Ra1ta IS perhaps the most popular

1 medium or 2 small cucumbers 1 Halve the cucumbers lengthwise and deseed them Then cut crossw1se
(about 300 g/ 10 oz total), peeled 1nto paper-th1n slices Spnnkle the salt over the cucumber and set as1de to
1/ tablespoon salt
2 dra1n 1n a colander for 10 m1nutes. Squeeze out as much water from the
2 shallots, peeled and very thinly
cucumber as poss1ble. then nnse off the salt and squeeze again. Allow to
sliced (optional)
1/ cup (125 ml) plain yogurt
dra1n well
2 2 Place the cucumber 1n a small bowl. Add the shallots, yogurt and m1nt
1 sprig mint leaves, coarsely chopped
leaves. and m1x well Serve ch1lled or at room temperature

Note: Sprinkle a httle ch1lli or ground cum1n over the ra1ta JUSt before serv-
Ing 1f des1red

Makes 11/ 2 cups Preparation t1me 20 m1ns

Seafood 75
Yu Sheng Chinese New Year Raw Fish Salad

This refreshing dish tops the menu at every Chinese restaurant in Singapore during the 2-week Lunar New
Year period. It is considered an auspicious dish as the term used for mixing the salad together sounds almost
the same in Cantonese as the word symbolising good luck and prosperity (Lo Hei).

Salad 1 Grate the carrot and radish into long , thin slices using a spiral slicer if
1 medium carrot, peeled available. Place them in separate mounds on a platter. Mix half of the yam
1 medium daikon radish, peeled slices with red food colouring and the other half with green food colouring, if
1 small yam, peeled, grated and desired, and place in separate mounds on the platter with the carrot and
deep-fried radish. Prepare the rest of the Salad and place separately on the platter.
1f2 teaspoon each red and green food
2 Mix all the Sauce ingredients together and set aside in a small bowl.
colouring (optional)
1/ cup (60 g) preserved sweet
3 To serve, place everything on the dining table: the platter of Salad, a plate
2
papaya or melon, sliced (see note)
of the raw fish, small bowls of the fish seasoning next to it and a plate of
1/ cup (60 g) pickled ginger, slivered Garnishes. Start with the Fish Sashimi and Seasoning-toss the raw fish in
2
(see note) the seasoning and place it on the platter with the Salad. Pour the Sauce
1f2 cup (150 g) pomelo or grapefruit over and sprinkle the Garnishes, except the lime halves, over it. Then, din-
flesh, shredded by hand (see note) ers can help to mix the salad with chopsticks to ensure good luck. Serve
1/ cup (50 g) prepared jellyfish, with the lime wedges on the side.
2
sliced (optional, see note)
4 kaffir lime leaves, slivered {optional)
Note: Preserved sweet papaya or melon are candied slices of the fruits
Sauce that are coated with sugar. They are sold in Chinese grocery stores. Pickled
2 teaspoons sesame oil ginger are thin slices of young ginger that are pickled in salt, and then in
5 tablespoons sweet Chinese plum vinegar. They are sold in most supermarkets or Asian stores. Pomelo is a
sauce citrus fruit that is larger than grapefruit but not as juicy. Prepared jellyfish
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice are sold in ready-to-eat packets.

Fish Sashimi and Seasoning


150 g (5 oz) fresh salmon or other Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 60 mins
fish fillets, chilled and very thinly
sliced
1 tablespoon Garlic Oil (page 31 )
5 em (2 in) young ginger, sliced into
thin shreds
1f2 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

Garnishes
4 tablespoons coarsely crushed
roasted peanuts
1/ tablespoon five spice powder
2
1 tablespoon white sesame seeds,
dry-fried until golden
Flour Crisps (page 30)
Coriander leaves (cilantro), to garnish
(optional)
2 small limes (limau kastun), cut into
wedges, to serve

76 Seafood
Steamed Fish with Vinegar Soy Dressing
Creative S1ngapore cooks do not hesitate to experiment with new rec1pes Here IS an extremely healthy local
Ch1nese version of a Western steamed fish fillet with vegetables.

500 g (1 lb) seabass or cod fil let, 1 Season the fish lightly on both sides with the salt and pepper. Place the
sliced into thin steaks fish on a plate and steam in a wok or steamer for 6 to 8 minutes.
1I teaspoon salt
4 2 While the fish is steaming, heat the 011 1n a small skillet and stir-fry the garlic
1/ teaspoon pepper
4 over medium heat for 1 to 2 m1nutes unt1l browned. Remove the garlic and
2 teaspoons oil
place on paper towels to dra1n Add the baby kailan to the wok and st1r-fry
3-4 cloves garlic, sliced
until the leaves have wilted slightly but are still crunchy, about 1 to 2 min-
350 g (12 oz) baby kallan (Chinese
broccoli or kale), briefly blanched in
utes. Remove from the heat and set as1de
boiling water 3 Heat the soy sauce. sesame 011 and v1negar 1n a small saucepan over low
1 tablespoon soy sauce heat for 1 minute and set as1de
1/ teaspoon sesame oil
2
4 When the f1sh IS cooked, remove 1t from the steamer and place onto Indi-
11/ 2 tablespoons black Chinese rice VIdual servmg plates DriZZle the v1negar sauce over the fish and garnish with
vinegar or balsamic vinegar a sprinkling of the reserved garlic Serve hot wllh the baby kaitan on the side

Note: Balsam1c v1negar IS a m1ld, dark brown v1negar w1th a sweet-sour


flavour. It IS made from reduced grape JUICe that was aged 1n wooden
casks. It makes a wonderfully l1ght vina1grette for salads and other foods.
Available bottled in supermarkets and well-stocked prov1S10n shops.

Serves 4 Preparatton ttme 15 mtns Cooktng ttme 20 mins

78
Tea-smoked Fish Fillets
Smok1ng food-especially duck or pork-over a mixture of tea leaves IS a popular method of preparing and
preserving food in the western Yunnan and Sichuan provinces of China. This excellent Singapore adaptation
makes use of the abundant supply of local seafood.

600 g (11/4 lbs) seabass or other firm 1 Combine the Marinade mgredients in a bowl until the salt and sugar are
white fish fillet like snapper or garoupa completely dissolved. Drizzle the Marinade over the fish f1llet and set aside
Fennel sprigs, to garnish (optional) for 3 hours. Then drain the f1sh, pat dry w1th paper towels and set aside.
Pickled mustard cabbage (klam chye) 2 Heat a wok over low heat and add the Smok1ng M1x. Place the fish on a
w1re grill or round bamboo rack 1ns1de the wok at least 5 em (2 in) above the
Marinade
1/ cup (125 ml) ice water
Smoking M1x. Cover the wok and allow to smoke over low heat for 10 to 15
2
minutes until the f1sh takes on a light brown colour and is cooked through.
1J 4 cup (60 ml) ginger juice (see note)
5 tablespoons soy sauce
3 Cut the f1sh 1nto serv1ng slices, garn1sh w1th fennel sprigs, 1f us1ng, and
1 tablespoon sugar serve either hot or cold w1th p1ckled mustard cabbage on the side.
1 tablespoon salt
Note: To make the g1nger Juice, grate 8 em (4 1n) young g1nger to make 1f2
Smoking Mix
cup of grated g1nger. M1x Wlth 2 tablespoons water, then strain the mixture
20 cloves
through a fine sieve, press1ng Wlth the back of a spoon, to obtain 1f4 cup
5 star anise pods
5 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
(60 ml) of juice. If using a grill or charcoal f1re, allow the charcoal to burn
3 cinnamon sticks (each 8 cm/3 in) down to the red embers, then add the Smok1ng Mix, place the fish on the
5 tablespoons Chinese black tea leaves grill, cover and cook until done.
5 tablespoons uncooked rice

Serves 4 Preparat1on 11me 20 m1ns + mannatlon 11me Cook1ng lime: 15 mins

Seafood 79
Claypot Rice
A s1mple Cantonese one-pot d1sh. 1n which rice is cooked 1n a claypot
w1th succulent chunks of ch1cken. fragrant Chinese sausage, black
mushrooms and seasomngs The Ch1nese believe that a claypot 1s
essential to ensure the correct flavour and fragrance of th1s d1sh. though
any other type of covered earthenware container could be used

500 g (1 lb) boneless chicken meat, cut into bite-sized chunks


6 dried black Chinese mushrooms, soaked to soften, stems d iscarded,
caps quartered
1 tablespoon oil
2 cups (400 g) uncooked long-grain rice, washed and drained
1 1/ 2 cups (375 ml) chicken stock or 1f 2 teaspoon chicken stock granules
dissolved in 1112 cups (375 ml) hot water
1 sweet dried Chinese sausage (lap cheong) , sliced
4 em (11/ 2 in) fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1 spring onion, thinly sliced, to garnish (optional)

Marinade
1 tablespoon oil
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon black soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1/ teaspoon sesame oil
2
1/ teaspoon ground white pepper
2
1/ tablespoon cornstarch
2

1 Comb1ne the Mannade 1ngred1ents 1n a small bowl and pour over the
ch1cken and mushrooms. and m1x to coat them well. Set the chicken and
mushrooms as1de to marinate for at least 2 to 4 hours.
2 Heat the 011 m a large seasoned claypot over high heat and st1r-fry the
dra1ned rice for 2 minutes 1n the 011 until lightly browned. Add the chicken
stock. bnng to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer. covered. over low
heat for 15 m1nutes.
3 Spread the mannated chicken and mushrooms. sausage and ginger on
top of the rice Cover aga1n and cook for another 10 m1nutes. Remove from
the heat. garn1sh w1th freshly sliced spring onion and serve

Note Claypots are the Ch1nese vers1on of a casserole dish While claypots
are cooked on the stovetop. casseroles are usually bound for the oven
The des1gn of the claypot ensures that food stays piping hot even 1f the
meal1s delayed To season a new claypot, 1mmerse 11 completely in water
for 24 hours. or see package mstruchons

Serves 4 Preparat1on t1me 15 m1ns + mannat1on lime Cooking 11me 30 m1ns

80 Meat and Poultry


Sweet Pork Ribs Wrapped in Fragrant
Pandanus Leaves
The elus1ve fragrance of pandanus leaves permeates a number of nee.
meat and ch1cken d1shes of Malay or Nonya ong1n. wh1le pandanus
essence extracted from the leaves IS often used 1n cakes and desserts.
The use of pandanus to wrap foods (most often seasoned chicken) before
deep-frying is borrowed qu1te recently from Thailand This Singapore
adaptation uses pork nbs

3 shallots, peeled
5 cloves garlic, peeled
3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce (see note)
2 tablespoons sweet plum sauce or honey (see note)
11/ 2 tablespoons steak sauce (see note)
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
1f 2- 1 teaspoon five spice powder
4 tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon sesame oil
700 g (11/ 2 lbs) meaty pork ribs or chicken thighs, cut into serving pieces
24 pandanus leaves, rin sed and dried
Oil for deep-frying

1 Gnnd the shallots and garlic 1n a mortar and m1x w1th all other ingredients.
except the meat. pandanus leaves and 011 for deep-fry1ng Rub th1s mixture
1nto the meat and set as1de to mannate for 2 hours
2 Wrap each p1ece of pork rib or ch1cken thigh 1n a pandanus leaf. ty1ng 11 1n
a s1mple knot so the meat 1s enclosed by the leaf as shown .
3 Deep-fry the meat parcels 1n very hot 011 for 3 to 5 m1nutes unt1l cooked
Serve hot, still 1n the pandanus leaf, allow1ng each d1ner to unwrap h1s or
her own port1ons.

Note: If unavailable, substitute pandanus leaves with parchment paper.


Wrap the ribs envelope-style and fasten with a staple before frying.
Worcestershire sauce and steak sauce are both of English origin, and are
available in supermarkets. Sweet plum sauce is available where Chinese
foods are sold.

Serves 4 Preparatton ttme. 20 mtns + mannatton lime Cooktng ttme. 10 mtns

Meat and Poultry 83


Indian Mutton Soup Sup Kambing

Also known as Sup Tulang or Bone Soup, this robust dish is one of the
more popular hawker dishes in Singapore. It makes a great late-night meal
or luncheon served with lots of crusty French bread to soak up the soup.

5 em (2 in) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced


6 cloves garlic, peeled
1 kg (2 lbs) meaty mutton or lamb ribs
1 onion, sliced or 5 shallots, sliced
1 heaped tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground fennel
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1f2 teaspoon ground turmeric
11/ 2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8-12 cups (2-3 litres) water
1/ tablespoon oil
2
2 leeks, white part only, sliced (optional)
5 cardamom pods, bruised
3 star anise pods
1 cinnamon stick
1 tomato, cut into wedges
Crispy Fried Shallots, to garnish (page 31 )
Chinese celery or coriander leaves (cilantro), coarsely chopped, to garnish

1 Grind the ginger and garlic together in a mortar to a paste. Place the
paste in a pot with the mutton or lamb ribs, onion, coriander, fennel, cumin
and turmeric powders. Season with the salt and pepper. Add 12 cups (3
litres) of water if using mutton, but only 8 cups (2 litres) if using lamb, which
will cook more quickly. Simmer over medium heat, uncovered, until the meat
is soft, about 11/ 2 hours for mutton and 1 hour for lamb.
2 Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat and stir-fry the leeks, cardamom,
star anise and cinnamon until the leeks are tender, about 5 minutes.
3 Add the fried mixture to the mutton soup and simmer for another 2 minutes.
Then add the tomato and stir to mix well. Serve garnished with Crispy Fried
Shallots and Chinese celery leaves, and crusty French bread on the side.

Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 15 mins Cooking time: 1 hour 40 mins

Meat and Poultry 85


Chicken in Coconut Curry Ayam Lemak
A wonderfully fragrant Malay dish that uses fresh aromatiC roots and
herbs to create an ent1c1ng flavour. II you don 't like your food fiery hot,
omit or reduce the amount of chillies called lor in th1s rec1pe.

1 fresh chicken (about 1 kg/2 lbs), washed and cut into serving pieces
2 cups (500 ml) water
3 cups (750 ml) thick coconut milk or 1112 cups (375 ml) coconut cream mixed
with 11/ 2 cups (375 ml) water
1 teaspoon salt
1/ 2 teaspoon ground white pepper
3-5 finger-length chillies, halved lengthwise and deseeded
5-10 red or green chilli padi (bird's-eye chillies) , left whole (optional)
Crispy Fried Shallots (page 31), to garnish (optional)

Spice Mix
2 1/ 2 em (1 in) fresh turmeric root, peeled and sliced,
or 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
2 112 em (1 in) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
5 red finger-length chillies, deseeded and sliced
10 shallots, peeled
8 cloves garlic, peeled
3 tablespoons oil
2 stalks lemongrass, thick bottom third only, outer layers removed,
inner part bruised
2 1/ 2 em (1 in) fresh galangal root, peeled and sliced
5 kaffir lime leaves
1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 Pat the ch1cken dry w1th paper towels and set as1de
2 To make the Sp1ce M1x gnnd the turmenc, g1nger Chillies shallots and
garlic to a paste 1n a mortar or blender, add1ng a little o1l1f necessary to
keep the blades turn1ng Heat the 01l1n a wok over med1um to h1gh heat, add
the ground paste, lemongrass, galangal, lime leaves and ground conander.
Then reduce the heat to medium and stir-fry for 5 to 7 m1nutes until fragrant.
3 Add the chicken and st~r-fry until all the p1eces are coated with the sp1ces,
about 1 m1nute Then add the water, increase to med1um h1gh heat and Sim-
mer, uncovered, until the Chicken IS half cooked, about15 m1nutes
4 Add the coconut m1lk and season w1th the salt and pepper Cont1nue to
s1mmer over med1um to h1gh heat for another 25 m1nutes Then add the
ch1llies and cook unhlthe meat is tender, another 10 m1nutes Serve hot gar-
nished w1th the Cnspy Fned Shallots if using

Serves 4-6 Preparat1on t1me 30 m1ns Cook1ng t1me 55 m1ns

Meat and Poultry 87


Duck Braised in Fragrant Soy
A Teochew rectpe usually made with goose. thts stmple but tasty method of bratstng tn soy flavoured wtth cin-
namon, star antse and cloves works equally well wtth duck or chtcken

1 fresh duck (about 2 kg/4 lbs) 1 To prepare the Garlic and Vtnegar Sauce, mix all the 1ngred1ents a bowl
1 teaspoon five spice powder and set astde
10 cloves garlic, crushed 2 Bring a kettle of water to a bo11 Clean the duck and remove as much fat
3 tablespoons black soy sauce
as poss1ble Scald the outs1de of the duck w1th hot water to remove the
1/ tablespoon oil
2 rema1n1ng wax and fat. then set tl astde to dra1n Rub the duck mside and
2 tablespoons sugar
out wrth the frve spree powder, crushed garlic and black soy sauce.
10 shallots, peeled and lightly bruised
5 em (2 in) fresh galangal or ginger
3 Place the orl rn a brg pot, add the sugar and heat over low heat untrl the
root, peeled and bruised sugar caramehses. about 10 mrnutes Add the shallots and galangal, and
5 cinnamon sticks strr to mrx well Then add the crnnamon star anrse. cloves and strr agarn
15 star anise pods Add the soy sauce and water, rncrease the heat to hrgh and bring to a boil
20 cloves 4 Add the duck wrth 1ts seasonrngs, and srmmer covered. over low heat for
'12 cup (125 ml) soy sauce 1 1 2 hours. Remove the cover and srmmer for another 30 minutes Add
16 cups (4 litres) water more water rf needed Remove the duck from the pot and set aside to cool
Strarn the sauce into a saucepan and drscard the sohds Skrm the fat from
Garlic and Vinegar Sauce the sauce. then stmmer untrlrt reduces to a gravy
5 cloves garlic, minced
5 Debone the duck and cut rnto servrng slices. Serve wrth small bowls of the
1 finger-length chilli, deseeded and
Garhc and Vrnegar Sauce and warm gravy on the srde.
minced (optional)
4 tablespoons rice vinegar or white
Serves 6-8 Prepara11on lime 30 mrns Cookrng lime 2 hours 20 mrns
vinegar

88
Bak Kut Teh Pork Rib Soup

A popular late-n1ght or early morn1ng pick-me-up, this flavourful soup can be prepared with various cuts of meat,
although th1s version using ribs 1s most popular.

500 g (1 lb) pork ribs, cleaned, sepa- 1 Place the pork ribs, pork and garlic with the water in a large pot. Wrap the
rated and cut into lengths Seasonings in a piece of clean cheesecloth and add to the pan. Add the soy
One 150-g (5-oz) piece lean pork sauces and sugar, and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat to low and sim-
1 bulb garlic, unpeeled, washed mer gently, covered. for 11/ 2 to 2 hours. until the meat is very tender and
12 cups (3 litres) water
almost falling off the bones Discard the cheesecloth filled with the Season1ngs.
4 tablespoons black soy sauce
2 To serve, slice the pork meat 1nto small p1eces Place a few p1eces of meat
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons sugar 1n 1nd1vidual serv1ng bowls w1th a few nbs and whole cloves of garlic, and
1 red finger-length chilli, thinly sliced, ladle the hot stock over the meat Serve with a small bowl of sliced fresh red
to serve (optional) ch1lli 1n black soy sauce on the stde. Serve 1mmed1ately
Black soy sauce, to serve (optional)
Note: Packets of Bak Kut Teh Sp1ces are sold 1n supermarkets and food
Seasoning
shops 1n S1ngapore. Malays1a and Australia You can also stop by a
1 packet of Bak Kut Teh Spices (see
note), a combination of cloves, star Chinese medicine shop and ask for seasonings to make Bak Kut Teh.
anise, cinnamon, rock sugar and
various Chinese medicinal herbs
Ytelds 6 cups Preparallon t1me 15 m1ns Cooktng lime· 1 hour 45 m1ns
(gan cao, luo han guo, dang xin ,
chuan kong, dang guei and sheng dt)

Meat and Poultry 89


Ayam Panggang Barbecued Spicy Chicken

Barbecuing was very common among Malay cooks 1n the old days when
every dapur (kitchen) had a wood fire These days, barbecued or panggang
foods are more likely to be found at food stalls. where whole chickens are
generally replaced w1th ch1cken w1ngs or drumsticks

1 whole chicken (about 1 kg/2 lbs), quartered or cut into serving pieces,
or 6 chicken legs

Marinade
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 1/ 2 em (1 in) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1/ teaspoon salt
2

Barbecue Chilli Paste


2 chili pad! (bird's-eye chillies), deseeded and sliced (optional)
6 shallots, peeled
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 ripe tomato
5 red finger-length chillies, deseeded and sliced
1 tablespoon oil
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
2 teaspoons sugar
1/ teaspoon salt
4
1/ teaspoon pepper
4

1 To prepare the Mannade. gnnd the garlic and g1nger together 1n a mortar
Mix this paste w1th the hme JUICe and salt. then rub the mtxture tnto the
chicken pieces. Set the seasoned chicken astde to mannate for 30 mtnutes
2 To prepare the Barbecue Chllh Paste. steam or blanch the chili padi, shal-
lots, garhc and tomato for 5 mtnutes tn a saucepan wtth a btl of water. Then
set the steamed 1ngredtents astde to cool Place the red chillies and the
cooled ingredients tnto a blender and gnnd to a coarse paste.
3 Heat the oil in a pan and stir-fry the ground ingredients over low heat for 5
minutes until fragrant. Season w1th the hme JUice. sugar, salt and pepper,
and cook for another 5 mtnutes.
4 Grill the marinated chtcken over a charcoal ftre or under a broiler for 2 to 3
minutes on each side. Remove from the heat and rub the chicken thorough-
ly wtth the cooked Barbecue Chllh Paste and set astde for at least 10 mtn-
utes to allow the flavours to penetrate
5 Return the chtcken to the lire and grill unt1l tender and golden brown on
both stdes, another 2 to 3 m1nutes on each stde Serve hot

Note: The Barbecue Ch1lh Paste can be prepared several hours 1n advance.
It IS a very versatile paste that can also be used to season beef or seafood

Serves 4 Preparahon t1me 25 m1ns Cook1ng t1me 40 m1ns

Meat and Poultry 91


Buntut Asam Pedas Spicy Oxtail Stew with Tamarind

Oxtail has long been a popular Singapore dish, prepared almost as an English-style stew by Hainanese
cooks. This is a simple, delicious recipe, richly flavoured with the silky texture of oxtail enhanced by Malay or
Indonesian spices.

1 kg (2 lbs) oxtail, fat trimmed off and 1 To make the Marinade, grind the turmeric, galangal, chillies, shallots, gar-
cut into serving pieces lic and lemongrass in a mortar or blender until smooth, adding a little water
8-10 cups (2- 21/2 litres) water if necessary to keep the blades turning. Combine the ground mixture with
1f2 teaspoon salt or more to taste
the rest of the Marinade ingredients. Rub the Marinade into the oxtail and
1/ teaspoon pepper
2 set aside to marinate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Crispy Fried Shallots (page 31),
2 Bring the water to a boil in a pot. Add the marinated oxtail, reduce the heat
to garnish (optional)
and simmer. covered. over low heat for 30 minutes. Then simmer. uncov-
Marinade ered, for another 30 minutes until the oxtail is tender and the broth is
2 1/ 2 em (1 in) fresh turmeric root, reduced by half. Stir periodically to prevent the meat from burning and add
peeled and sliced, or 1 teaspoon more water if the broth evaporates too quickly.
ground turmeric 3 Season with the salt and pepper and garnish with Crispy Fried Shallots.
4 em (11/2 in) fresh galangal root, Serve hot with freshly steamed rice.
peeled and sliced
10-12 red finger-length chillies, Serves 4-6 Preparation t1me· 20 mins + marinat1on time Cook1ng time: 1 hour
deseeded and sliced
5-10 chili pad/ (bird's-eye chillies).
deseeded and sliced (optional)
10 shallots, peeled
8 cloves garlic, peeled
2 stalks lemongrass, thick bottom
third only, outer layers removed,
inner part sliced
1f 2 cup (125 ml) water
1f 2 cup (150 g) tamarind pulp, mashed
with 11/2 cups (375 ml) warm water,
squeezed and strained for juice
5 kaffir lime leaves, very thinly sliced
3 tablespoons tomato paste or
5 tablespoons tomato ketchup
1 tablespoon sugar (i f using tomato
ketchup, omit this)

Meat and Poultry 93


\ndian Mutton Kambing Korm
Curry a
1 cover the m
1 kg (2 \bs) utton w>th 8 cu
9 cups (2'/
mutton or la
4 litres) water
5 em (2 in) fr
mb, cubed ch•lhes. shallo
water to keeP
ts and ga~•c
the blades tum
ps (21•ters) w
'" a mortar or
bl
ater oo a pot
ender, add•OQ
Gnod the g,og
er,
esh ginger, bnog to a bOil •ng Add the gr I cup (250 mt)
sliced Reduce the h ou ol
eat aod somm nd m"'ure to the pot and
10 green finge
r-length chillie
10 shallots,
s, deseeded tender. abOut er. uncovered.
peeled 2 Heat the o•l 11/2 hours tor mutton an unt•llhe meat
10 cloves ga '" a skdlel aod d 1 hour tor la OS
rlic , peeled damom pods stu-lry the o ,o o m b.
3 tablespoon
s candtenuts or s tor 3 m•nutes
casheW outs
4 large onio oil
ns, peeled an
der and curry
leaves and st star a ,s e . c•nn Add the car·
d sliced u-lry tor 5 m•n amoo curry po
6 cardamom
po the heat and utes uotitlrag
ra

5 candlenuts ds. bruised 3 Add the po ad d the !ned mt')(ture o t Remove lro
or 20 raw ca tatoes , yogu to the pot With m
sheW nuts, rt sail. pepper th
ground to sommer unut
the meat .s so and tamaneodmutton .
utes Add the li aod cooked tu•ce . and cont
5 star anise
pods green choll•es through , aoo ooue
4 cinnamon and tomatoes ut20 to 30 m
6 tablespoonsticks il usong and st •n·
s meat currv ately With tres u Serve imme<
powder hly cooked w k
1 sprig currv htte nee.
\eaves
3 potatoes,
peeled and
1 cup (250 m cubed
l) plain yogu
1'1 teaspoon rt
2
1 tablespoon s salt
ground white
2 tablespoon pepper
s tamarind pu
with 4 tables lp mashed
poons warm
squeezed an water,
d strained to
4 -0 green fin r juice
ger-length ch
lengthwise an illies, halved
6 small tomat d de seed ed
oes, quartere
d (optional)

94

Roast Duck and Rock Melon


1 ripe rock melon or cantaloupe 1 Halve and deseed the melon. Use a small melon bailer to scoop out 1 cup of
1 fresh duck (about 2 kg/4 lbs) the flesh. Place the melon balls in a bowl and set aside. Then peel and puree
4 tablespoons Chinese plum sauce the rest of the melon and reseNe 1 cup (250 ml) of the juice for the Sauce.
3 tablespoons oil 2 Wash and pat the duck dry. Mix all the Seasonings in a bowl and pour into the
1 teaspoon sesame oil
duck cavity. Seal the duck cavity at both ends with satay sticks or small skewers.
3 Pour the Blanching Liquid ingredients into a large pot and bring to a boil.
Seasonings
Hold the duck firmly with one hand suspended over the pot and use a ladle
4 star anise pods
1 cinnamon stick to pour the hot liquid over the duck repeatedly for a minute with the other
2 tablespoons black bean paste (tau hand. Using a S-hook, hang the duck up in an airy space or under the sun
cheo) , mashed for at least 2 hours for the skin to dry thoroughly. Roast the duck 1n a pre-
2 tablespoons sweet black sauce heated oven at 200°C (400°F) for 45 minutes. Set aside to cool, then
1 tablespoon soy sauce debone and cut into seNing slices.
1/ teaspoon black soy sauce 4 To make a sauce, combine the reseNed melon juice, plum sauce, sesame
2
1 tablespoon sugar oil and oil in a smalll bowl. Arrange the duck slices and melon balls on a plate
1 teaspoon sesame oil and drizzle the sauce over or seNe the sauce in a small bowl on the side.

Blanching liquid
8 cups (2 litres) water Note: To save time, you can buy red-roasted Chinese duck from a Chinese
1 cup (250 ml) Chinese red vinegar BBQ shop. There are two types of Chinese vinegar, one almost black
(see note) or white vinegar (often referred to as Tientsin vinegar) and the other a light reddish brown.
1 cup (250 ml) rice wine The flavour is quite different, so try to find the latter for this dish.
2 large limes or lemons, sliced
3 tablespoons sugar syrup
Serves 6--8 Preparation ttme: 30 mtns Cooking time: 45 mtns

Meat and Poultry 95


Stuffed Yam Croquettes wu Kok

A Teochew delicacy, these croquettes are filled with bits of Char Siew (Barbecued Pork) . You may be able to
pick up some Char Siew from a Chinese store or the market.

1 kg (2 lbs) yams or sweet potatoes 1 First prepare the Char Siew by m1xing the pork with all the Ingredients and
1/ cup (75 g) tapioca starch or
2 setting aside to marinate for 1 hour. Then drain the meat and roast on a w1re
cornstarch rack over a roasting pan in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F) for 30 min-
1/ cup (125 ml) vegetable shortening
2 utes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Then dice the meat.
or pork oil (see note)
2 To make the Filling, mix the Filling ingredients with the diced Char Siew in
1f2 teaspoon five spice powder
a bowl. Cover and set aside to chill in the refrigerator.
1 teaspoon sesame oil
3 Peel the yam or sweet potatoes and cut the flesh into small chunks.
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar Steam for 30 minutes over boiling water until soft. Mash the cooked yam or
1/ teaspoon ground white pepper sweet potatoes in a small bowl and set aside.
2
Oil for deep-frying 4 Mix the tapioca starch with 3 to 4 tablespoons boiling water to form a
Sweet bottled chilli sauce, to serve smooth dough. Add the vegetable shortening or pork oil, five spice powder.
sesame oil, salt, sugar, pepper and the mashed yam, and mix thoroughly.
Filling Divide the mixture into 20 equal portions and shape each portion into a ball.
1 small onion, diced 5 Divide the Filling into 20 portions. Flatten each portion of the yam mixture
1 small carrot, diced and place a portion of the Filling in it. Shape the mixture around the Filling
1/ cup {50 g) fresh or frozen green
3 to enclose it and form a dumpling. Repeat with the rest of the yam mixture
peas
and Filling to form 20 yam dumplings in all.
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
6 Deep-fry the yam dumplings over moderate heat in a wok or deep-fryer until
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon cornstarch light golden brown, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to
1/ teaspoon sesame oil drain. SeNe hot with a small bowl of sweet bottled chilli sauce on the side.
2
1f2 teaspoon five spice powder
1/ teaspoon sugar
2 Note: Traditionally, this dish is made using pork oil. Pork oil or lard is made by
chopping hard (back) pork fat into small pieces and cooking over low heat
Char Siew (Barbecued Pork)
with 2 tablespoons water until the water evaporates and all the oil runs out.
200 g (7 oz) pork loin, cut into a long
thick strip
2 tablespoons sugar
Makes 20 yam croquettes Preparation time 55 mins + mannat1on t1me
1112 tablespoons soy sauce
Cook1ng time: 1 hour 20 mins
2 teaspoons black soy sauce
1f2 teaspoon five spice powder
1/ teaspoon sesame oil
2
1f2 teaspoon rice wine

96 Meat and Poultry


Chicken Braised in Soy
The 1ngred1ents and season1ngs are typ1cally Chinese. but the hnal treatment of th1s d1sh shows an 1nnovat1ve
approach. bak1ng the ch1cken 1n 1nd1v1dual potato moulds wh1ch makes a lovely presentation The ch1cken can
be cooked in advance and the d1sh completed by prepanng the potatoes and baking the assembled dish 1n
the oven just before serving.

1 whole chicken (about 1 kg/2 lbs) . 1 Comb1ne the Mannade mgred1ents 1n a bowl Rub the Mannade 1nto the
cut into small pieces chicken and set as1de to man nate for 10 m1nutes Then pat the chicken dry
Oil for deep-frying and deep-fry in very hot oil until half cooked. about 3 m1nutes
12 dried black Chinese mushrooms, 2 To prepare the Sauce. heat the oil in a wok or pot over h1gh heat and stir-
soaked in warm water to soften,
fry the garhc. star an1se and cmnamon for 1 m1nute Add the deep-fned
stems discarded, caps quartered
ch1cken. both types of mushrooms and g1nger and stir-fry for 3 m1nutes
10 button mushrooms, halved
1 tablespoon butter
Then add the rema1n1ng Sauce 1ngred1ents, except the cornstarch. and Sim-
3 large potatoes, peeled and thinly mer for 2 m1nutes. Add the cornstarch m1xture and stir to th1cken the Sauce.
sliced lengthwise about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
3 Preheat the oven to 200 C (400°F). In a saucepan, heat the butter w1th 1
Marinade teaspoon 011 and saute the th1nly shced potatoes until half cooked
1 egg, lightly beaten 4 L1ne 4 to 6 ovenproof bowls w1th the half-cooked potatoes ensuring that
2 tablespoons soy sauce they overlap F1ll the bowls w1th the ch1cken m1xture and cover w1th the
1 tablespoon oyster sauce rema1n1ng potato slices Bake 1n the oven for 5 to 7 m1nutes until the pota-
1/ tablespoon black soy sauce
2 toes are golden brown
1/ teaspoon pepper
2 5 To serve, unmould the potatoes from the bowls and fhp the parcel over
onto a serv~ng plate Serve hot.
Sauce
1 tablespoon oil
Serves 4-6 Prepara11on t1me 55 m1ns Cook1ng lime 25 m1ns
5 cloves garlic, minced
3 star anise pods
1 cinnamon stick
6 em (21/ 2 in) fresh ginger, peeled
and sliced
4 tablespoons rice wine
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon black soy sauce
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1/ teaspoon five spice powder
2
2 teaspoons cornstarch mixed with
2 tablespoons water

Meat and Poultry 99


Bean Sprouts with Salted Fish
100 g (3 1/ 2 oz) dried salted fish, 1 Heat the oll1n a wok over medium heat and stir-fry the salted f1sh until golden
soaked, rinsed, patted dry and thinly brown and cnspy, about 2 m1nutes. Remove from the 011 and set aside to dran
sliced 2 Add the garlic, onion, ch1ll1es and mushrooms to the wok and stir-fry over
3 tablespoons oil med1um heat for 2 m1nutes. Add the oyster sauce. sesame oil and rice w1ne,
5 cloves garlic, sliced
and mix for about 1 m1nute Add the bean sprouts. spnng onions and
1f 4 large onion, thinly sliced
chives, increase the heat to h1gh and stir-fry bnskly for 2 to 3 m1nutes.
1- 2 red finger-length chillies, deseeded
and thinly sliced
Transfer the vegetables to a serv1ng platter
3 dried black Chinese mushrooms, 3 Season w1th the pepper and toss well Then spnnkle the fned salted fish
soaked to soften and sliced (optionaQ and serve 1mmed1ately
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
1/ teaspoon sesame oil
2 Note: Soak the salted f1sh 1n water for 10 m1nutes before fry1ng 1f the fish
1 tablespoon rice wine
is heavily salted.
300 g (10 oz) bean sprouts
2 spring onions, cut into short lengths
4 stalks garlic chives (koo chye) , cut Serves 4 Preparat1on lime 20 m1ns Cook1ng 11me 10 m1ns
into lengths
1/ teaspoon white pepper
4

Kangkung Belachan Water Spinach Stir-fried with Spicy Prawn Paste

A popular method of cook1ng this excellent leafy green vegetable using both Malay and Chinese seasonings.

750 g (1 1/ 2 lbs) kangkung (water 1 Use only the tender t1ps and leaves of the kangkung , and discard the
spinach), washed and cleaned, tough stems . Wash the leaves and stems thoroughly 1n several changes of
tough bottom ends of stems and water to remove any gnt
wilted leaves discarded 2 To prepare the Sp1ce Paste. gnnd the 1ngred1ents 1n a mortar or blender.
2-3 tablespoons oil
add1ng a little 011 1f necessary to keep the blades turn1ng
3 tablespoons dried prawns, soaked
3 Heat the 01l1n a wok and st~r-fry the ground dned prawns and the Spice
in water to soften, then coarsely
Paste over med1um heat for 5 to 7 minutes until fragrant. Add the sugar.
ground in a mortar or blender
2-4 teaspoons sugar sesame oil, soy sauce and sliced ch1ll1, and stir to m1x well. Increase the
1 teaspoon sesame oil heat to high, add the kangkung and stir-fry bnskly until the vegetable IS
1 tablespoon soy sauce slightly wilted, about 3 m1nutes. Season w1th the salt and pepper Best
1 red finger-length chilli, thinly sliced served hot
1/ teaspoon salt
2
1/ teaspoon pepper Serves 6 Preparation t1me 20 m1ns
2 Cook1ng lime 10 m1ns

Spice Paste
21/ 2 em (1 in) fresh ginger, peeled
and sliced
5-8 red finger-length chillies, deseeded
and sliced
6 shallots, peeled
6 cloves garlic, peeled
2 teaspoons belachan (dried prawn
paste)

Vegetables and Salads 101


Mild Potato Curry with Yogurt
5 cloves garlic 1 Grind the garlic and ginger to a paste in a mortar.
3 em (11/4 in) fresh ginger, peeled 2 Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat and stir-fry the on1on until golden,
and sliced about 5 minutes Add the garlic-ginger paste, all the spices and the curry
3 tablespoons oil leaves. and continue to stir-fry gently for 4 to 5 minutes.
1 large onion, sliced 3 Add the potatoes and stir-fry until they are well-coated with the spices, about
2 tablespoons ground coriander
1 minute. Then add the tomatoes and water, and simmer. covered, stirring
1 tablespoon chilli powder
occasionally until the potatoes are cooked, about 15 to 20 minutes minutes.
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
4 Add the lime ju ice and coriander leaves, and mix well. Season with the salt,
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 cloves pepper and suga[ Swirl in the yogurt and remove from the heat. Serve imme-
1 cinnamon stick diately with rice or bread.
1 sprig curry leaves
750 g (11/ 2 lbs) potatoes, peeled and Serves 4-6 Preparat1on t1me: 25 m1ns Cooking lime. 35 m1ns
cut into chunks
2 tomatoes, cut into wedges
2 cups (500 ml) water
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime
or lemon juice
6 sprigs coriander leaves (cilantro) ,
coarsely chopped
11/ 2 teaspoons salt
1/ teaspoon pepper
4
1112 teaspoons sugar
1 cup (250 ml) plain yogurt

Eggplant Masala
3 tablespoons oil 1 Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat and cook the mustard seeds until
1 teaspoon mustard seeds they pop, about 1 minute. Add the cumin seeds and gently stir-fry for 1
1/ teaspoon cumin seeds minute. Add the onion and garlic, and stir-fry until light golden brown, about
2
1 onion, sliced 5 minutes.
4 cloves garlic, sliced 2 Add the eggplants, chilli powder, coriander, turmeric and salt, and stir-fry
2 slender Asian eggplants (500 g/1 lb for 1 minute. Then add the tamarind juice, reduce the heat and simmer until
total), halved and cut into lengths
the eggplants are tender, about 7 minutes. Serve immediately with freshly
1 teaspoon chilli powder
cooked rice.
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/
2teaspoon ground turmeric
1/ teaspoon salt Serves 4-6 Preparat1on t1me 25 m1ns Cook1ng t1me: 20 m1ns
2
2 teaspoons tamarind pulp mashed
in 4 tablespoons water, squeezed
and strained to obtain juice

102 Vegetables and Salads


Tropical Fruits in Steamed Coconut Custard
These steamed cakes made with jackfruit (or other tropical fruits) make a delicious snack or dessert.

1 cup (150 g) rice flour 1 Prepare the Palm Sugar Syrup by following the instructions on page 73.
1/ cup (60 g) tapioca starch
2 2 Combine the rice flour, tapioca starch, coconut milk, salt and pandanus
3 cups (750 ml) thin coconut milk or leaves or essence in a saucepan, and cook over very low heat, stirring con-
1 cup (250 ml) coconut cream stantly, until the creamy mixture becomes very thick, about 10 minutes.
mixed with 2 cups (500 ml) water
Remove from the heat and discard the pandanus leaves (if using) . Allow the
1/ teaspoon salt
2
mixture to cool. then add the fruit and mix well.
3 pandanus leaves, tied in a knot,
3 Place one piece of banana leaf on top of another and spoon 2 table-
or '14 teaspoon pandanus essence
11/ 2 cups (200 g) diced jackfruit or
spoons of the cooked mixture onto the centre, then spoon 1/ 2 tablespoon
mango or sliced banana each of the coconut cream and Palm Sugar Syrup over the mixture. Fold
16 pieces banana leaf, each about two opposite sides of the banana leaves over the filling so they overlap
20-cm (8-in) square each other, then seal the two ends with toothpicks.
11 cup (125 ml) coconut cream
2 4 Alternatively, roll the banana leaf into a cone and spoon 2 tablespoons of
'12 cup (125 ml) Palm Sugar Syrup the cooked mixture into it (see photo). SeNe the coconut cream and Palm
(page 73) Sugar Syrup in small bowls on the s1de.
5 Steam the bundles for 25 minutes in a bamboo steamer or on a steaming
tray inside a covered wok. Remove from the steamer and allow to cool to
room temperature or chill before seNing.

SeNes 4-6 Preparat1on lime 15 m1ns Cook1ng time: 35 m1ns

Coconut Mango Pudding


Delicate and light, garnish these simple puddings with fresh mango and other fruits to create an elegant dessert.

4 cups (1 litre) water 1 Combine the water, sugar and gelatine powder in a saucepan and stir con-
11
2 cup (125 g) sugar stantly over low heat until the sugar and gelatine is completely dissolved, about
2 tablespoons gelatine powder 7 to 10 minutes.
1 cup (250 ml) thick coconut milk or 2 Remove from the heat, add the coconut milk or cream, fresh milk, eggs
1/ cup (125 ml) coconut cream
2 and mango puree . and mix well. Then add the diced mango and mix again.
mixed with 1/ 2 cup (125 ml) water
3 Pour the mixture into small moulds and refrigerate until set. Garnish with
1/ cup (125 ml) fresh milk
2 the sliced mango, strawbernes and kiwis or other fruits (if using) and seNe.
2 eggs, beaten
1 large mango (about 450 g), peeled,
SeNes 4-6 Preparat1on t1me: 25 mins Cooking t1me. 10 mns
pitted and pureed
1 large mango (about 450 g), peeled,
pitted and diced
1 large mango (about 450 g), peeled,
pitted and sliced to garnish
Strawberries, kiwi or other fruits, to
garnish (optional)

Desserts 105
Chilled Almond Jelly with Lychees or Longans
A class1c Ch1nese restaurant d1sh that 1s very easy to make and can be prepared well 1n advance. What a
great way to end a Ch1nese d1nner1

3 cups (750 ml) water 1 Pour the water into a deep saucepan and spnnkle the agar-agar powder
2 tablespoons agar-agar powder over it. St1r gently and slowly bnng to a bo1l over med1um heat. Then reduce
1 cup (250 ml) fresh milk the heat and s1mmer gently over low heat for 5 m1nutes. Add the milk and
1/ cup (125 g) sugar
2 sugar, and continue to stir until the sugar IS completely dissolved Then add
2 teaspoons almond essence
the almond essence and gently s1mmer for another m1nute. Pour the m1xture
One (600-g/ 20-oz) can lychees
1nto a square or rectangular d1sh and leave to set, then refngerate unlll requ1red.
or longans, with canning syrup,
chilled
2 Just before serv1ng, pour the ch1lled lychees or longans and their cann1ng
Ice cubes (optional) syrup into a large bowl. Cut the almond Jelly 1nto squares and add to the
bowl. Add a few 1ce cubes, 1f des1red, and serve 1mmed1ately.

Serves 4-6 Preparation lime 5 m1ns Cook1ng t1me: 15 m1ns

Sweet Red Beans with Coconut Cream


Th1s favounte Ch1nese dessert IS believed to be very nutn!lous As 11 1s qu1te f1lling, 11 1s sometimes served as a
snack between meals or w1th afternoon tea.

1 cup (200 g) dried red adzuki beans 1 Cover the dra1ned adzuki beans w1th the water in a pot and bnng to a bo1l
(see note), soaked in water for 1- 2 Reduce the heat and simmer over low heat, uncovered, for 40 m1nutes unt1l
hours, then drained the beans are very soft
4 cups (1 litre) water 2 Add the sugar and pandanus leaves or essence, st1r gently and cook for
3f4 cup (150 g) sugar
another 10 m1nutes Remove from the heat and d1scard the pandanus
5 pandanus leaves, tied in a knot
leaves, 1f us1ng Ladle the sweetened beans 1nto 1nd1v1dual bowls and serve
or 1f 2 teaspoon pandanus essence
1/ cup {125 ml) coconut cream warm, topped w1th a sw1rl of fresh coconut cream
2

Note: Do not confuse small red adzuk1 beans w1th the much larger red
kidney beans which do not work as well for this recipe. Adzuki beans are
sold dried and need to be soaked before using. Cooked, sweetened
adzuki beans are available canned in supermarkets.

Serves 4-6 Preparat1on lime 15 m1ns Cook1ng lime 50 m1ns

106 Desserts
Gula Melaka Sago Pearls with Coconut Milk and Palm Sugar

Smooth sago pearls bathed in creamy coconut cream and golden brown Palm Sugar Syrup make this one of
Singapore's best-loved desserts. The name literally means "Malacca Sugar", although any type of palm sugar
(also known as gula merah or "red sugar") or maple syrup may be used.

1 1/ 2 cups (150 g) dried sago pearls 1 Rinse the sago pearls and place in a pot with the pandanus essence or
(see note) pandanus leaves. Add the water and bring to a boil, stirring constantly for 15
1/ teaspoon pandanus essence or
4 minutes. If using pandanus leaves, remove and discard them. Remove the
3 pandanus leaves, tied in a knot pot from the heat, cover and set aside for 5 minutes.
12 cups (3 litres) water
2 Drain the sago pearls, discarding the water. Rinse the sago under cold
1 cup (250 ml) Palm Sugar Syrup
running water and drain again. Spoon the sago pearls into individual serving
(see note on page 73)
bowls and refrigerate until set.
1 1/ 2 cups (375 ml) coconut cream
Crushed ice, to serve (optional) 3 To serve, drizzle Palm Sugar Syrup and coconut cream over the sago and
top with crushed ice, if desired.

Note: Dried sago pearls are white pearls of sago starch. They must be
rinsed in water and drained to remove excess starch before use. When
cooked, they are transparent and have little taste. Sold in the dried form in
grocery stores.

Serves 6-8 Preparation t1me: 5 m1ns Cook1ng time· 20 m1ns

Sago with Honeydew and Coconut Milk


7 tablespoons dried sago pearls (see 1 Rinse the sago pearls, place in a pot with 8 cups (2 litres) water and bring to
note above) a boil, stirring constantly for 15 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, cover
9 cups (21/ 2 litres) water and set aside for 5 minutes. Drain the sago pearls, discarding the water. Rinse
1/ cup (1 00 g) sugar
2 the sago under cold running water, drain again and set aside.
1 ripe honeydew melon, or cantaloupe
2 Boil the sugar and 1/ 2 cup (125 ml) water to make a sugar syrup. Remove
1112 cups (375 ml) coconut cream
from the heat and set aside to cool.
Crushed ice, to serve (optional)
3 Halve the honeydew or cantaloupe, then peel and deseed. Blend half the
melon flesh in a juicer or process in a blender with 1/2 cup (125 ml) water.
Cube the other half of the melon flesh or shape into balls with a small melon
bailer. Mix the cooked sago pearls, coconut cream, honeydew juice and cubes,
and drizzle a little sugar syrup over to taste. Serve well chilled with crushed
ice, if desired.

Serves 6-8 Preparation t1me: 25 m1ns Cook1ng t1me: 15 m1ns

Desserts 109
Measurements and conversions
Measurements 1n th1s book are g1ven 1n volume as far as poss1ble Teaspoon. tablespoon and cup measurements
should be level. not heaped. unless otherw1se 1nd1cated Australian readers please note that the standard Australian
measunng spoon IS larger than the UK or Amencan spoon by 5 mi. so use 3f4 tablespoon 1nstead of a full tablespoon
when follow1ng the reCipes

Liquid Conversions Solid Weight Conversions

Imperial Metric US cups Imperial Metric

1/ II oz 15 ml 1 tablespoon 1J2oz 15 g
2
1 II oz 30ml 1/ cup 1 oz 28 g
8
2 II oz 60ml 1J4 cup 1112 oz 45 g
3 fl oz 85ml 1J3 cup 2 oz 60 g
4 II oz 125ml 1J2 cup 3 oz 85 g
511 oz 150ml % cup 31/2 oz 100 g
6 fl oz 175 ml 3J4 cup 4 oz ( 1/4 lb) 125g
8 II oz 250 ml 1 cup 5 oz 150 g
12 II oz 375 ml 1 1/ 2 cups 6oz 175 g
16 II oz 500 ml 2 cups 7 oz 200g
1 quart 1 litre 4 cups 8 oz ( 1/2 1b) 225 g
9 oz 260 g
Note: 10 oz 300g
1 UK p int = 20 II oz 16 oz (1 lb) 450 g
1 US pint = 16 fl oz 32 oz (2 1bs) 900g
2 1/4 lbs 1 kg

Oven Temperatures

Heat Fahrenheit Centigrade/Celsius British Gas Mark

Very cool 230 110 1j4


Cool or slow 275-300 135- 150 1- 2
Moderate 350 180 4
Hot 425 220 7
Very hot 450 230 8

110
Index of recipes

Achar Kuning 31 Fish Head Curry 66 Pork Salay with Pineapple Vegetables in Coconut Milk
Ayam lemak 87 Flour Cusps 30 Sauce 54 w1th Compressed Alee 48
Ayam Panggang 91 Fned Beehoon 37 Prawn Noodle Soup 42 Water Sp1nach St~r-lued w1th
Bak Kut Teh 89 Fned Fish with Spicy Prawn Prawn Paste Chilli Sauce 30 Sp1cy Prawn Paste 101
Barbecue Chilli Paste 91 Sambal 71 Rice Noodles in Spicy Wu Kok 96
Barbecued Pork 96 Fried Kway Teow 37 Tamarind Gravy 41 Yu Sheng 76
Barbecued Sp1cy Chicken 91 Fruit and Vegetable Rojak 57 R1ce Verm1cell1 St1r-lried
Barbecued Stingray 68 Garlic and V1negar Sauce 88 with Mushrooms and
Bean Sprouts w1th Salted Garlic Oil 31 Vegetables 37
Fish 101 Golden Prawns w1th Sweet Roast Duck and Rock
Black Pepper Crab or Spicy Sauce 73 Melon 95
Crayl1sh 62 Gula Melaka 109 Sago Pearls w1th Coconut Milk
Braised Noodles w1th Seafood Hae Mee 42 and Palm Sugar 109
Hokkien Style 38 Hokkien-style Fresh Spring Sago with Honeydew and
Buntut Asam Pedas 93 Rolls 52 Coconut Milk 109
Char Kway Teow 37 Honey Barbecued Chicken Salad with Sp1cy Peanut
Char Siew 96 Wings 50 Sauce 57
Chicken Braised in Soy 99 lkan Pari Panggang 68 Sambal Belachan 30
Chicken mCoconut Curry 87 Indian Flatbread Stuffed with Salay Sauce 30
Chicken Rice 32 Spicy Minced Meat and Sate Ayam 55
Chilled Almond Jelly with Onion 61 Sate Babi 54
Lychees or Longans 106 Indian Fued Noodles 46 Shallot 011 31
Chilli Ginger Sauce 31 Indian Mee Goreng 46 Singapore Chilli Crab 62
Chilli Sambal 68 Indian Mutton Curry 94 Solo Ayam 44
Chilli Vinegar Dip 64 Indian Mutton Soup 85 Sotong Goreng 71
Chinese New Year Raw Fish Kambing Karma 94 Special Nonya Fued Rice 50
Salad 76 Kangkung Belachan 101 Spicy Ch1cken w1th
Classic Hamanese Chicken laksa Noodle Soup 34 Noodles 44
R1ce 32 lontong 31 Spicy Oxtail Stew w1th
Classic Hokk1en Mee 38 lontong Sayur Lemak 48 Tamarind 93
Claypot Rice 80 Macchi Tandoon 75 Spicy Peanut Dressmg 58
Coconut Gmger Prawns w1th Malay Chicken Salay 55 Steamed Fish with Vinegar Soy
L.emongrass Curry 73 Mee Siam 41 Dressing 78
Coconut Mango Pudding 105 Mild Potato Curry with Steamed R1ce Roll 31
Crispy Fried Garlic 31 Yogurt 102 Stuffed Yam Croquettes 95
Crispy Fued Shallots 31 M1xed Sealood and Noodles m Sup Kambmg 85
Cucumber and Omon Achar 61 Spicy Coconut Broth 34 Sweet Pork R1bs Wrapped m
Cucumber mYogurt Murtabak 61 Fragrant Pandanus leaves 83
Dressing 75 Orr Chien 64 Sweet Red Beans with Coconut
Cucumber Raila 75 Oyster Omelette 64 Cream 106
Curry Sauce 66 Palm Sugar Syrup 73 Sweet Sp1cy Sauce 73
Deep-lned Baby SQuid 71 Peanut Rotak Sauce 57 Tandoou Baked F1sh 75
Deep-lned Tofu Salad with Pickled Vegetables with Tandoori Paste 75
Spicy Peanut Dressing 58 Turmeric 31 Tauhu Goreng 58
Dned Prawn Sambal 29 Pineapple Satay Sauce 30 Tea-smoked F1sh Fillets 79
Duck Bra1sed mFragrant Popiah 52 Teochew Steamed Fish 64
Soy 88 Pop1ah Wrappers 52 Tropical FrUits in Steamed
Eggplant Masala 102 Pork Rib Soup 89 Coconut Custard 105

111

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