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HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED

LEARNING MATERIALS

Welcome to this module: Performing Basic Maintenance

The unit of competency Perform Basic Maintenance covers


the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in obtaining
measurements, performing simple calculation, and estimating
appropriate quantities.

This module, contains training materials and activities for you to


complete. You are required to go through series of learning activities in
order to complete each learning outcome. In each outcome are
Information Sheets, Self-Checks. Task or assignment sheets. Follow the
activities on your own. If you have questions, feel free to ask your
facilitator for assistance.

Remember to:

Read and understand information sheets and answer self-checks.

Perform the task or assignment sheets. Use the performance criteria


checklist that follow the sheets.

When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, as
your facilitator to evaluate you. The result of your assessment will be
recorded in your Progress Chart and Achievement Chart.

You need to complete this module and pass the Institutional


Competency Evaluation before you can perform the next module.

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List of Common competencies

No Unit of Competency Module Title Code


.

1 Carry out measurements Carrying out measurements and GRM743203


and calculations calculations

2 Set up and operate Setting up and operating GRM743204


machine/s machine/s

3 Perform basic Performing basic maintenance GRM743205


maintenance

4 Apply quality standard Applying quality standard GRM743206

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MODULE CONTENT

QUALIFICATION : DRESSMAKING NC II

Unit of Competency : Perform basic maintenance

Unit code : GRM743205

Module Title : Perform Basic maintenance

Module Description : This module covers the knowledge and skill required in
performing basic maintenance of machine.

Nominal Duration : 4 hours

Learning Outcomes:

Upon completion of this module, you must be able to:

LO1. Operate machine and assess its performance

LO2. Clean and lubricate machine

LO3. Check machine operation

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LEARNING OUTCOME # 1: Operate machine and assess its
performance

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Proper handling of machine is


observed
2. Correct procedures in
machine operation are identified.
3. Functional performance is
recognized.

CONTENTS:

 Machine operation
 Quality of stitches and tensions

CONDITION:

The students/trainees must be provided with the following:

 Practice exercises for obtaining measurements


 References
 Writing materials

METHODOLOGIES:

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 Lecture
 Demonstration
 Group discussion/interaction

ASSESSMENT METHOD:

 Written examination
 Observation
 Interview

LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome 1: Operate machine and assess its performance

Learning Activities Special Instructions

1.
Machine operation Read and understand the information
sheets and do self-check. You must
answer all questions correctly before
2. Answer Self Check 3.1-1 proceeding to the next activity.
Compare answers with Answer Key
3.1-1

3. Read Information Sheet


3.1-2 on Quality of stitches and
tensions

After doing all the activities in this


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4. Answer Self Check 3.1-2
Compare answers with Answer Key
3.1-2 learning outcome, you can now
proceed to the next learning outcome

Information 1.1-1
Machine operation

Learning Objectives:

After reading this Information Sheet, you should be able to:

1. Recognize machines needed for garment operations.


2. Identify correct procedure in machine operation.

There are so many different sewing machines to be used in sewing. It’s


impossible to share with you specific details about your make and model of
machine. However, you can begin learning about your sewing machine
regardless of brand or model, and by following some steps to consider
before you starting to sew.

Steps to be taken before using a sewing machine:

A. Paperwork.
The first step in setting up your sewing machine is to look at the
paperwork. There are several pieces you’ll want to look at: the safety
instructions, quick start guide, instruction manual, and warranty
information and registration.

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Safety Instructions

The safety instructions could be in the instruction manual, a separate


paper, or both. Almost every page of safety instructions begins with a
sentence like, “Read all instructions before using your household sewing
machine.” If you’ve never sewn before, definitely read all the safety
instructions, regardless of brand or model machine.

 Use the machine only for its intended use.


 Don’t operate the machine if the cord or plug are damaged
or have been exposed to water.
 Keep fingers away from moving parts, especially the needle.
 Unplug the machine when it’s not in use, when you are
lubricating it, or you’re performing routine maintenance.

Quick  Start Guide.

It will include the fundamental steps you need to take to get your
sewing machine up and running.

 Getting your machine connected to electricity (electric


sewing machine)
 Preparing the bobbin
 Threading the sewing machine.
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Instruction Manual.

If your machine is previously-owned and didn’t come with an


instruction manual, more than likely you’ll be able to find it online. To do
this, search using the brand/manufacturer and model of the machine.
Based on the search results, contact the manufacturer of the sewing
machine directly or search online for a third party distributor of sewing
machine manuals.

If you do have the instruction manual, scan through the table of


contents to familiarize yourself with the different sections of it. There are a
couple of specific sections you’ll want to focus on first – the parts of the
sewing machine and the accessories that came with your machine.

Parts of the Sewing Machine:

Sewing Machine Accessories.


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Accessories included with your machine should be listed, and maybe
even pictured, in the instruction manual. Make sure they are all with your
machine if it is new. Then put your accessories in the accessory box and
put it back on your machine.

If you’re missing any accessories on a brand new machine address it


immediately. It would start by looking through your paperwork to see if
there is customer service/contact information. If not, try contacting the
place where you purchased your sewing machine. They should be able to
guide you on the steps to take.

If your machine is not brand new, you need to make sure you have the
right bobbins for your machine and, at a minimum, a standard/all-purpose
presser foot before you’ll be able to sew.

Connect to Power
The next step in setting up your sewing machine is to connect it to
power. Machines get their power through an electrical cord that is attached
to the foot control (also called a foot pedal).

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 Insert the holed plug into the socket on the side or back of
your machine.
 Then connect the main plug to an electrical outlet.
 After that, make sure your sewing machine is receiving
electricity by turning on the main switch. If the light comes
on, you’ve got power.
 If this is your first sewing machine ever, I recommend
checking your sewing machine Quick Start Guide and/or
instruction manual for the details on how your machine
gets power. Also, reference the manual if the foot control
and electrical cord are not one piece.

Some machines have the option to sew without a foot pedal. Instead you
can use your knee or a start/stop button or lever. Refer to your instruction
manual to see if your sewing machine has the feature.

Insert the Needle


After you have connected your machine to a power source, the next
step in setting up your machine is to insert the needle.

Needles come in different sizes. They also vary by fabric type. Unless
you’ll be working right away with a heavy-weight fabric or a knit, a regular
point or universal needle will probably meet your needs for light to medium
weights of woven fabric.

If your machine is brand new, it may already have the needle in the
machine. Don’t skip this section, though. Remove your needle and reinsert
it so you’re familiar with how to change the needle.

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 Turn off the machine before you insert the needle.
 Lower the presser foot.
 Raise the needle to the highest position by turning the
handwheel (also called the flywheel) toward
you. Important: If you turn the handwheel away from
you, the machine will jam when you start to sew.
 If the needle is in the machine, hold it while you loosen
the screw that holds it in place.
 Carefully remove the needle from the needle clamp.
 To insert the needle, make sure the flat side of the
needle is facing the back of the machine. Then push it
up as high as it will go in the needle clamp.
 Tighten the screw to hold the needle in place

Attach the Presser Foot’

.The next step in setting up your sewing machine is to know how to


attach the presser foot. Just like with the needle it’s a good idea to turn off
your machine when you attach the presser foot.

Chances are your sewing machine has several different sewing feet.
Looking at the accessory page in the manual, locate the foot that is used for
general sewing. It may be called an all-purpose foot, ordinary sewing foot,
straight stitch foot, standard presser foot, or something similar. Most of the

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other presser feet will have a name that describes its purpose, such a
zipper foot, buttonhole foot, and button sewing foot.

Depending on the type of machine you have, connecting the presser


foot may require a lever, a screwdriver, be a snap-on, or a combination of
all three.

So, scan through the table of contents in the manual and look for the
section on changing the presser foot.  Follow the directions for your
machine to attach the presser foot needed for general sewing.

Safety Tips: It’s a good idea to turn off the sewing machine before you
change the presser foot. Also, if the needle is in the machine, make sure it’s
at its highest point by turning the handwheel toward you. Be careful because
the needle is sharp. 

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Now, here we go…let’s sew!

 Sit in front of your sewing machine.


 Turn the flywheel toward you so the needle is in the highest
position.
 Lift up the presser foot and insert the paper under it.
 Line up the needle with one of the lines on the paper. You can
turn the flywheel toward you to move the needle up and down.
Once the needle is lined up with a line, lower the presser foot.

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When you press on the foot control, the needle will go up and down
and the feed dogs will pull the paper through the machine. Don’t push the
paper.

Use your right hand to guide the paper so you’re sewing on the line. Be
careful of the needle, it is sharp!

You control the speed of the machine by pushing down on the foot
control. To get the machine to go slower only push down a little. The more
pressure you give the foot control, the faster the needle moves. When you
lift up on the foot control, the machine will slow down or stop.

When you get to the end of a line, turn the flywheel toward you until
the needle is in the highest position, raise the presser foot, and reposition
the paper on another line.

Sew as many lines on the paper as you want. Work on sewing a


straight line. Experiment with the speed of the machine and how the foot
pedal, needle, and feed dogs feel as they all work together.

If you’re feeling adventurous, explore different stitch lengths. Make


sure the needle is in its highest position before making changes to the
stitch length dial. Notice how the space between the holes on the paper
vary as you make changes to the length of the stitch.

You can even try setting the stitch selector to the zig-zag stitch and
experiment with different widths.

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From right to left, the needle holes show the straight stitch with
different stitch lengths and the zig zag stitch with different stitch widths.

Self check 3.1-1

TRUE or FALSE
Direction: Read the statement carefully. Write T if the statement is
correct and write F if the statement is false.

___1. The first step in setting up your sewing machine is to look at the
paperwork.

___2. You cannot control the speed of the machine by pushing down on the
foot control.

___3. Needles come in different sizes.

___4. The safety instructions could be in the instruction manual, a separate


paper, or both.

___5. Just like with the needle it’s a good idea to turn off your machine
when you attach the presser foot.

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Answer key 3.1-1
1. T
2. F
3. T
4. T
5. T

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Information 3.1-2
Quality of stitches and tensions

Learning Objectives:

After reading this Information Sheet, you should be able to:

1. Recognize functional performance of machine.


2. Set the machine properly.

What Are Stitch Quality Problems?


So what exactly do we mean by stitch quality problems?

Whether you're a complete beginner or a super experienced sewist


we're sure you've sat there at some point tearing your hair out for one of
the following reasons:

 your sewing machine keeps jamming


 your machine is skipping stitches
 the thread is looping on the top or bottom side of the fabric

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 the bobbin thread is pulling through to the top side of the fabric
and vice versa
 the thread is bunching up and 'nesting'
 the stitches are uneven
 your thread keeps breaking
It is incredibly frustrating, especially when all you want to do is sew. I
know I've threatened to throw my machine out of the window on more
than one occasion!

You probably perform a couple of checks and if you're unable to find a


solution you start to wonder if you need to send your machine off to be
fixed/serviced/checked.

At this point these seven tips might just be your saviour. They
probably include checks you already know, but as a very frequent and keen
sewer I still surprise myself how easy it is to forget them and just how well
they work.

Check You're Threading Your Machine Correctly


I know this goes without saying but I'll say it anyway - make sure
your sewing machine is threaded exactly according to the manual. Take
care to ensure the presser foot is in the raised position whilst threading.
This allows the thread to freely slot between the tension discs. Feed the
thread through the thread guides and take-up lever in the correct direction.
Also, make sure the bobbin is inserted in the correct orientation and that
the trailing thread goes into the bobbin tension mechanism according to
the manual.

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We often hear from beginners who think their new machine is faulty
due to stitch quality problems, when it is in fact a threading issue. It is
incredibly rare for a new sewing machine to have issues fresh out of the
box.

Having said that we have supported plenty of very experienced sewists


who have changed or upgraded their machine and attempted to thread it in
the same way as their old one. However, due to a slight nuance or
difference in the threading technique it has caused issues such as poor
stitch quality or the thread cutters not working.

If you're still struggling to work it out from the manual, it's always
worth searching on the machine model number on Youtube for a threading
guide. We recently did a full review of the Janome 725S, which includes a
step by step threading guide.

Change Your Needle Regularly


A blunt or damaged needle is the number one culprit for poor stitch
quality and can lead to any number of stitch problems, including skipped
and uneven stitches and thread shredding. If your machine is making more
of a thumping sound as the needle penetrates the fabric, then the needle is
almost certainly blunt and needs replacing.

Remember, even though a needle can look (and sound) fine, it can be
very slightly bent so don't just rely on your eyes - swap it! How regularly
should you change the needle you might ask? I usually change mine after
every one to two projects. Sewing machine needles are relatively cheap, so
keep a stash and replace them regularly.

When changing the needle be careful not lo let it drop inside the
machine as it's perfectly aligned to do just that when you're loosening the
needle screw.

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A great tip is to place a piece of paper under the foot before loosening
the needle clamp screw.

Also, make sure that when inserting the new needle that you insert it
in the correct orientation (usually the flat side of the shank facing away
from you) and that you push it up as far as it will go.

Not doing so can lead to a number of stitch quality problems, plus it


could also strike the bobbin case or bend the needle threader (if your
machine has one).

Use the Correct Needle Type


For general sewing, a universal size 80 needle should be fine. However,
if you're trying to sew more varied types of fabric such as jersey, leather,
sheers or use thicker / thinner threads then you need to use a needle
designed for the job. This will help you to achieve good stitch quality on
trickier fabrics.

There's a wide range of sewing machine needles available and too


many to list here. If you want to know more then you're in luck - see our
comprehensive article 'how to choose the right sewing needle'.
Use the Right Bobbins
It can be tempting to use a random bobbin in your sewing machine,
but it's really important to make sure it's the correct bobbin for your brand
and model of machine.

There are subtle differences between bobbins from different


manufacturers, and even for bobbins from the same manufacturer but for
different models and generations of sewing machine. To the naked eye they
might look identical, but there are often slight variations in the dimension
or design.

At best, using the incorrect bobbin can lead to thread nesting in the
bobbin area or bobbin thread not being picked up properly. At worst, using
the wrong bobbin can actually damage your sewing machine. This is
especially true when trying to use a metal bobbin in a machine designed for
plastic bobbins. If in doubt, you can visit our sewing machine accessory
page and buy bobbins specifically for you machine. They're relatively
inexpensive and will give you peace of mind.

Use Good Quality Threads

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Over time threads can dry out, become brittle and deteriorate. Don't
be tempted to use that box of threads that grandma gave you 20 years
ago! I'd also avoid cheap threads from supermarkets and eBay as these
can cause stitch problems, thread shredding and lint build-up. A good
quality thread makes all the difference.

Here at Sew Essential we only stock good quality thread and have a


number of brands to choose from. Gutermann sew all thread is an
industry favourite and is perfect for a wide range of projects. We also
stock Mettler poly sheen threads and these 120s polyester sewing threads,
which are also great quality and fantastic all rounders.
They have less lint content, therefore create less fluff in your
machine.

In addition to these, we sell threads made from natural fibres and a


wide range of specialist threads, you can find them all here.
Top tip - keep your thread out of direct sunlight as this can lead to
drying out, fading and becoming more brittle.

Set Tension Correctly for Different Fabrics


Never underestimate the importance of adapting your approach when
it comes to working with different fabric types.

As mentioned earlier in the article, make sure you are using the right
type of needle, then it is time to set the needle tension.

For the majority of fabrics the 'normal' tension setting for your
machine should be fine. If you're working with thicker fabrics you might
need a looser top tension and a longer stitch.

The mantra here is to play around and test on scraps of fabric until
you are happy with the results. The scraps should be of the actual fabric

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you will be using for the project and you should test on the same number of
layers as the real thing.

If your thread is pulled tight on the underside and not forming an


even stitch then (counter-intuitively) it's usually the top thread tension
that's wrong. Sometimes very lightweight fabrics such as sheers can get
dragged down into the machine so it's a good idea to use a straight stitch
plate.

Also, remember to let your machine do the fabric feeding. Your hands
are there to simply guide the fabric. Don't be tempted to push the fabric
from the front or pull the back of the machine whilst you're sewing as this
will certainly lead to uneven or skipped stitches.

Finally bear in mind that there are other tips and tricks you might
need to try, especially with tricky fabrics. You might have the right needle,
right tension, but need to use a stabiliser for example.

Maintain Your Sewing Machine


Keeping your machine well maintained not only helps keep your stitch
quality tip top, but it also has the added bonus of making it last longer.
This isn't as complicated as it sounds either and is actually very quick and
easy to do.

*Disclaimer - always unplug the power from your sewing machine


when performing any maintenance!

Cleaning
It never ceases to amaze me how often fluff and lint under the bobbin
case are the cause of poor stitch quality or a noisy machine.

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If you're having problems always remember to check here and don't be
tempted to blow - this will only send the fluff further into the machine.
Instead use a soft brush to tease it out.
It's also worth removing the stitch plate from time to time and give the
feed dogs and surrounding areas the once over with the brush. This solves
all sorts of strange problems you might be having, from poor stitch quality
to weird sounds. We generally recommend brushing out this area after
every project to keep your sewing machine in great working order.

We've found some pretty weird and wonderful things inside sewing
machines over the years. Amazingly, an old Singer was host to a dead
mouse but the most common intruders are pins and needles.

We once removed over 20 pins from a single machine - don't sew over
pins! Unsurprisingly, the sewing machine had damaged gears resulting in
an expensive repair bill.

If you do lose a pin or needle inside the machine, do your best to


rescue it before it can cause damage. Take off the stitch plate and remove
the bobbin case and fish it out if possible. It's always useful to have a pair
of long tweezers for such situations.

Lubrication
What about recommendations for oiling sewing machines? Whilst this
can be sensible if you know where to oil and how regularly (use only
purpose sewing machine oil), using too much oil can attract lots of fluff and
lint which isn't great for lubrication.
Many modern machines even recommend against oiling so it's
probably worth leaving this to the professionals during an annual service.
Either way, it's best to consult your manual as they all have a section for
maintenance and care.

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Self-Check 3.1-2

ENUMERATION
Direction: List down the seven (7) stitch quality problems.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

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Answer key 3.1-2

1. Your sewing machine keeps jamming

2. Your machine is skipping stitches

3. The thread is looping on the top or bottom side of the fabric

4. The bobbin thread is pulling through to the top side of the fabric
and vice versa

5. The thread is bunching up and 'nesting'

6. The stitches are uneven

7. Your thread keeps breaking

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LEARNING OUTCOME # 2: Clean and lubricate machine

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Regular cleaning of machine


is observed
2. Safety procedures in machine
cleaning are followed.
3. Regular maintenance
schedules are observed.

CONTENTS:

 Machine cleanliness
 Cleaning procedure
 Lubricants and their uses

CONDITION:

The students/trainees must be provided with the following:

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 Maintenance charts/cleaning guides
 References
 Writing materials

METHODOLOGIES:

 Lecture
 Demonstration
 Group discussion/interaction

ASSESSMENT METHOD:

 Written examination
 Observation
 Interview

LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome 2: Clean and lubricate machine

Learning Activities Special Instructions

1.
Clean and oil your sewing machine Read and understand the information
sheets and do self-check. You must
answer all questions correctly before
2. Answer Self Check 3.2-1 proceeding to the next activity.
Compare answers with Answer Key
3.2-1

3. Read Information Sheet 3.2-2 on


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Lubricate machine

4. Answer Self Check 3.2-2


Compare answers with Answer Key After doing all the activities in this
3.2-2 learning outcome, you can now
proceed to the next learning outcome
which is Check machine operation.

Information 3.2-1
How to Clean and Oil Your Sewing Machine

Learning Objectives:

After reading this Information Sheet, you should be able to:

1. Observe regular cleaning of machine.


2. Follow safety procedure in machine cleaning

Introduction

Cleaning and oiling your sewing machine is basic maintenance that


bits of lint, thread, dust and even fabric can get stuck in your machine.

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These make work harder and can even jam your sewing machine. Clean
your machine to fix these help the machine to last longer and perform
more smoothly. If you sew regularly, problems and use sewing machine oil
to help the moving parts function smoothly. You should clean and oil your
machine after finishing any large project as well as any time you suspect it
is having a problem.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Prepare the needed tools and supplies in cleaning the sewing


machine.

2. Remove the needle if there is any. This will prevent the cleaner
from pricking fingers during the cleaning process.

Face Plate (presser bar, needle bar, thread take up lever, lifter).

 Unscrew face plate and keep it in the drawer while cleaning.


 Brush dust away then put a little amount of oil while rotating the
balance wheel to inner parts can be accessed.
 Put back the Face Plate in place.

Cleaning and oiling your sewing machine is basic maintenance that can
help the machine to last longer and perform more smoothly. If you sew
regularly
bits of lint, thread, dust and even fabric can get stuck in your machine. These
make work harder and can even jam your sewing machine.
Clean your machine to fix these problems and use sewing machine oil to
help the moving parts function smoothly. You should clean and oil your

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machine after finishing any large project as well as any time you suspect it is
having a problem.

UPPER TENSION ( DISC SPRING AND DIAL )


 Remove outer bolt , tension dial , discs and disc spring.
 Lay each part in your front table following its disassembling
for easier assembling.
 Brush dust and wipe with absorbent cloth with oil.
 Assemble by following the laid parts in your table.

LOWER MECHANISM ( ROTARY OSCILLATING HOOK )


 Remove bobbin case.
 Fasten sides of oscillating hook.
 Remove dust with lint brush.
 Put a little amount of machine oil on moving parts.
 Return spare parts in place.

OTHER MINOR PARTS

 Remove entangled threads between head and balance wheel.


 Brush accumulated dust in the treadle joints connecting the band wheel.
 Clean gummy dust on the band wheel.
 After all parts were dusted, lubricate all joints and oil slots with good
quality oil.
 Wipe off all surplus oil then put a piece of absorbent cloth under the
presser foot for dripping oil.

Note : When the machine has thoroughly cleaned and oiled, run it slowly
for several minutes to allow the oil to work on its moving parts. Place a
scrap of fabric under the presser foot and lower the needle to absorb
excess oil.

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Self-check 3.2-1
ENUMERATION
Direction: List down the procedure in cleaning other minor part of sewing
machine. Write your answer on your answer sheet.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

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Answer key 3.2-1

OTHER MINOR PARTS

1. Remove entangled threads between head and balance wheel.

2. Brush accumulated dust in the treadle joints connecting the band wheel.

3. Clean gummy dust on the band wheel.

4. After all parts were dusted, lubricate all joints and oil slots with good
quality oil.

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5. Wipe off all surplus oil then put a piece of absorbent cloth under the
presser foot for dripping oil.

Information 3.2-2
Lubricate machine

Learning Objectives:

After reading this Information Sheet, you should be able to:

1. Identify the types of lubricant and


2. Follow the procedure in lubricating machine

Introduction

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Lubricant is a substance which is used to control (more often to
reduce) friction and wear of the surfaces in a contact of the bodies in
relative motion [1]. Depending on its nature, lubricants are also used to
eliminate heat and wear debris, supply additives into the contact, transmit
power, protect, seal. A lubricant can be in liquid (oil, water, etc.), solid
(graphite, graphene, molybdenum disulfide), gaseous (air) or even
semisolid (grease) forms. The liquid lubricants can be classified based on
the base oil to synthetic/semi-synthetic, mineral or environmentally
acceptable (biodegradable) oils. Most of the lubricants contain additives (5-
30%) to improve their performance.

The application determines which oil, commonly referred to as


the base oil, should be used. In extreme conditions, synthetic oils are
typically used. Where the environment is of concern, environmentally
acceptable lubricants must be used.

Evolution of Lubricants

The history of lubricants started thousands years ago, as early as in


2400 BC (and possibly earlier) an Egyptian statue to the grave of Tehuti-
Hetep, El-Bersheh was transported with the aid of liquid (oil/water)
lubricant in order to reduce friction between sledge and ground/sand. By
1400 BC Egyptians used animal fat to lubricate chariot axles. However, the
solid theoretical understanding of the lubricant action was only possible
with the development of the viscous flow laws discovered by Sir Isaac
Newton in 1687. Based on the laws of viscous flow, Professor Osborne
Reynolds developed the classical equation of thin film lubrication. This
equation is the basis of the classical hydrodynamic lubrication theory and
is the most widely used theory of lubrication.

Early in the 20th century, only mineral oils, vegetable oils or fats, and
greases were mostly considered as lubricants. However lately solid
lubricants, synthetic oils, water and gas based lubricants were included
into the concept of a lubricant as well. The broadening of the concept has
been accompanied by a greater understanding of the lubricant
performance, and its limitations

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4 Types of Lubricants and How to
Use Them
Oils

Oils are thin liquids made of long polymer chains, with additives for
various extra properties. Common additives include antioxidants to keep the
oil from oxidizing, corrosion inhibitors to prevent parts from corroding, and
detergents to keep deposits from forming. These long chains are hard to
squeeze out from between surfaces, making oils useful as a slippery barrier
between them. Oils come in different “weights” (such as 5W or 10W), which
correspond to viscosity.

The lower the number, the thinner the oil, and the more easily it will
flow.

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Uses: Hinges, bearings, tool maintenance, sharpening blades

Types: Motor oil, 3-in-1 oil, sewing machine oil, bar and chain oil

Use When:
• You want to lubricate something without the resistance inherent in using
grease
• You need lubrication to wick into a small space, without having to take
anything apart

Don’tUseWhen:
• The surfaces being lubricated are exposed to dust or dirt, which can
eventually gum up and cause more friction
• You need to keep things around the surfaces clean, because oils are low in
viscosity and thus tend to drip and run
• The surfaces are exposed to water or anything that can wash the oil away. It
won’t last long! (While oil can help make things water resistant, it can also
absorb water over time. The more water that absorbs into the oil, the lower its
adhesion will be, causing it to wash off of the very parts that need
lubrication.)

Greases

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Greases are made by using oil (typically mineral oil) and mixing it with
thickeners (such as lithium-based soaps). They may also contain additional
lubricating particles, such as graphite, molybdenum disulfide, or
polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, aka teflon). Greases combine the lubricating
properties of oils with added stickiness, allowing the lubricant to adhere to
the surfaces better. Greases can even act as a barrier, protecting the surfaces
from contaminants that can corrode or damage them. Like oils, greases come
in a range of consistencies, from ketchup-thin to thick like cheddar cheese.
One downside to grease is that because it’s so thick and sticky, it can cause
resistance in small or fast-moving mechanisms.

Uses: Gears, bearings, chains, linkages

Types: White lithium grease, marine grease, silicone grease

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Heavy-duty grease

Red ‘n’ Tacky grease

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Marine grease

Use When:
• You need lubrication to stay put and stick to surfaces for a long time
• You want to seal out contaminants such as water or dust
• You use a machine so infrequently that you may forget to oil it

Don’t Use When:


• You have fine or fast-moving mechanisms where thick grease would create
too much resistance
• You don’t want a mess. When parts move, they can fling grease all around, so
it may not be the best option for keeping things clean

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Penetrating Lubricants
Any shade-tree mechanic would agree that these types of lubricants
deserve their own special section. Penetrating lubricants are the saviors of
many stuck-bolt combatants, loosening years of rust and debris in minutes.
Contrary to the other substances covered here, penetrating oils are not
designed for long-lasting lubrication. Instead, they are low-viscosity oils with
additives that are specifically designed for one purpose: to infiltrate the tiny
cracks between surfaces (such as screw threads), add lubrication, and break
up rust.

There are a lot of different penetrating oils out there, but did you know
that you can make your own low-cost penetrating oil that outperforms almost
all of them? In an experiment conducted by Drexel University engineering
students, they found that a mixture of vegetable oil and acetone works as well
(or better) than WD-40 at loosening stuck bolts.

It’s easy to make! Just mix up a solution that’s 90% vegetable oil and
10% acetone, and squirt it wherever necessary. Be careful when mixing, as
acetone is flammable, and will melt many plastic containers. If possible, use a
glass or metal container to mix it, or buy an oil can to make things even
easier. Also, be sure to shake the mixture before each use, as acetone and
vegetable oil tend to separate over time.

Why Shouldn’t I Use WD-40 on Everything?

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WD-40 actually stands for “Water Displacement formula 40,” and while it
can help loosen rusty bolts, the film of oil left behind isn’t nearly enough for good, long-lasting
lubrication. You might find that the troublesome squeak subsides for a little while, but soon
enough you’ll have to go spray it away again. Using the right lubricant the first time will ensure
that the problem is solved long enough for you to forget all about it. Save the WD-40 for what it
does best: light lubrication, cleaning, and freeing stuck-together Lego bricks.

Dry Lubricants

Dry lubricants are made up of lubricating particles such as


graphite, molybdenum disulfide, silicone, or PTFE. At the molecular level,
these particles are super slippery, so they reduce the friction between
surfaces in contact with one another. It’s common to find these lubricants in
spray form, where they are mixed with water, alcohol, or some other solvent
that will evaporate away after application, leaving behind a thin film.
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Uses: 3D printer rails, threaded rods, locks, hinges

Types: Graphite powder or spray, molybdenum disulfide spray, (dry) silicone


spray, PTFE spray

Powdered graphite

Use When:
• You have tiny parts that shouldn’t be gunked up by grease or oil that will
attract dust
• You need to keep surrounding surfaces clean
• Your surfaces are exposed to extremely high heat or pressure, which would
typically oxidize oils

Don’t Use When:


• Your surfaces are exposed to solvents or other liquids that can wash them
away

Sewing machines come with a vast variance in options but the basic operation
of a sewing machine is the same from machine to machine. Once you know
the very basics of operating a sewing machine, you'll want to refer to your
machine's manual so you can use every possible option that your sewing
machine offers.

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Self-check 3.2-2

ENUMERATION
Direction: List down the 4 types of lubricants. Write it in your answer sheet.

1.
2.
3.
4.

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Answer key 3.2-2

1. Oils

2. Greases

3. Penetrating Lubricants

4. Dry Lubricants

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LEARNING OUTCOME # 3: Check machine operation

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Safety procedure on machined operation are observed.


2. Machine functional operations are identified and observed
3. Dysfunctional operations are recognized
4. Correct procedures for checking machine operation are
followed.

CONTENTS:

 Safety and machine operation


 Observation reports on machine operation

CONDITION:

The students/trainees must be provided with the following:

 Guides on machine checking


 References
 Writing materials

METHODOLOGIES:

 Lecture
 Demonstration
 Group discussion/interaction

ASSESSMENT METHOD:

 Written examination
 Observation
 Interview

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LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome 3: Check machine operation

Learning Activities Special Instructions

2.
Check machine operation Read and understand the
information sheets and do self-
check. You must answer all
2. Answer Self Check 3.3-1 questions correctly before
Compare answers with Answer proceeding to the next activity.
Key 3.3-1
After doing all the activities in this
learning outcome, you can now
proceed to the next Unit of
Competency.

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Information 3.2-1
Check machine operation

Learning Objectives:

After reading this Information Sheet, you should be able to:

1. Identify functional and dysfunctional machine operations.


2. Observe and recognize safety procedure on sewing machine operation

Sewing Machine Safety : 10 rules you


need to follow in a Sewing Room to be
safe while you sew

Introduction

Once there was a news article about this child who had to be operated
because a needle somehow got into his body. I read it and it gave me the
heebie-jeebies. For one week I was so terrified that I had left needles like this
and it had —-. Too horrified to even write about it. In that article, the doctors
had said that a needle can pass through your body undetected until it gets
stuck in some organ, like the liver. It read like one of those freak accidents
which we think will never happen to us. But it can.

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So keep those pins on the pincushion and needles in the needlebook or a
separate box designated only for needles. Works better if there is a magnet in
the box.

Small kids will take anything foreign on to their mouth with no rhyme or
reason so this is one safety thing seamstresses with small kids ought to be
strict about.

So that is  Rule No 1

Rule No 2 Place the scissors, closed and preferably inside


protective covers when you are not using them.

Especially a rotary cutter. They ought to be inside their covers, all the time,
except when you are using them. If you won’t I will start with another horror
story about a finger getting sliced.

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You can wear gloves to protect fingers from the sharp blade of the rotary
cutter. But if you get distracted as you use it, you can still cut something. So
concentrate as you use and be careful with fingers and keep the thing away
after use.

Also never hold the scissors sharp side pointing straight when someone
is in front of you. If that person accidentally falls or trips they will fall straight
on to the pointed scissors.

Rule No 3 Keeping the pins in the mouth ( between teeth )


seems to be one adventure that many seamstresses indulge in while both
their hands are occupied draping on the mannequin or fitting the client. This
is one disaster waiting to happen and they are asking for it. 

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Rule No 4 If you are a beginner start operating the machine
with slow speed and if you are a kid do not operate at all – unless your
mummy or teacher is nearby and they are ok with it.

Concentrate on the sewing and the movement of the needle. The rest can
wait. This is applicable to beginners and the experienced.

Rule No 5 Keep your fingers well away from under the needle
when you sew. This is basic common sense but I have sewn over my nail and
it was one of the most painful experiences of my life. So I thought I would
include this. I had accidentally stepped on the pedal while I had kept my
finger conveniently just under the needle, I don’t know why.

Do not rest your foot on the foot pedal when you are not sewing. It is not
a footrest. You may accidentally set it on and sew over God knows where.

Rule No 6 Switch Off the machine when you are threading the
needle and generally when you are not working the machine. This goes with
what I said earlier

You should also Switch off the machine ( and remove the plug from the
power point) if you are cleaning the machine or changing the light bulb or
doing any repair work or the regular sewing machine maintenance.

Rule No. 7  Flying hazard – Needles can snap into two and
break with the sharp point flying here and there, even to an eye, while you are
sewing. For me, this happened because the presser foot got loosened as I was
sewing and the needle hit the presser foot and snapped.

It can also happen if the needle is not the appropriate one for the fabric
you are sewing. Or the accessories you are using is not appropriate for your
particular machine.

Some times wrong needle plate can cause the needle to break- say you
are using a straight needle plate and you accidentally changed the sewing
mode to zig zag. 

Or even when you are sewing over pins. It is prudent to remove pins as
you approach them as you sew. Better be safe.

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When you are sewing over beads or sequins do wear protective eye gear.
Beads can break and fly into the eye.

Rule No. 8 Keep the sewing room clean of plastic covers –


people tripping on plastic covers is one major cause of accidents anywhere in
the world. In a sewing room, there are always many plastic covers – the ones
with the fabric scraps, the ones with the trims. When you are not using them,
keep them in a separate drawer, not the floor

Ensure that sewing machine cords or any machine cords are not spread
on the floor as a tripping hazard.

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Rule No 9 One major accident in a sewing room is a hot iron
scalding the hands. Keep your hands away from hot iron as you press. Do not
try to touch the faceplate to see if the temperature of the iron is appropriate.

Keep kids well away from the hot iron. My daughter tried to check
whether the iron is hot by keeping the palm on the sole plate. The rest is
hospital history

Rule No 10 Always heed Sewing Machine safety tips in


your sewing machine manual.

For Sewing machine Safety one of the first things every sewing manual
says is not to use the machine with extension cords or multi-plug adaptors.
Next sewing machine safety tip is not to touch the plug with wet hands. Keep
the sewing machine cord protected from heat, cuts and other damage.

But if you hear unusually loud sounds or burning smell or spark from
your machine, Switch off the machine immediately and consult a repair
service or the shop which sold you the machine. Electrical and mechanical
repairs are best done by experts.

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Self check 3.3-1

TRUE or FALSE
Direction: Write T if the statement is Correct and F if the statement is
not correct.

_____1. One major accident in a sewing room is a hot iron scalding the hands.
Is rule number 7.
_____2. Ensure that sewing machine cords or any machine cords are not
spread on the floor as a tripping hazard. Under rule # 8.
_____3. Rule No 10 Always heed Sewing Machine safety tips in your sewing
machine manual.
_____4. Rule No 10 Always heed Sewing Machine safety tips in your sewing
machine manual.
_____5. Rule No 6 do not Switch Off the machine when you are threading the
needle and generally when you are not working the machine.
_____6. Rule No 4 If you are a beginner do not start operating the machine
with slow speed and if you are a kid do not operate at all.
_____7. Rule No 2 Place the scissors, closed and preferably inside protective
covers when you are not using them.
_____8. Keep those pins on the pincushion and needles in the needle book or
a separate box designated only for needles.
_____9. Never hold the scissors sharp side pointing straight when someone is
in front of you.
____10. Rule No 5 Keep your fingers well away from under the needle when
you sew.

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Answers key 3.3-1

1. F
2. T
3. T
4. T
5. F
6. F
7. T
8. T
9. T
10. T

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As you enjoy using your sewing machine , problems cannot be
avoided , but knowing its causes is another challenging skill to
develop. How can you classify these problems or troubles ?

CLASSIFICATIONS OF SEWING MACHINE TROUBLES

If the sewing machine in your laboratory are kept in


good condition and are carefully adjusted and properly
threaded , not too many things can go wrong. But there are
certain difficulties that occur during an operation so often ,
so you should know these minor and common problems
their causes and remedies. There are two classifications of
sewing machine troubles, namely :
1. Minor sewing machine trouble
This refers to problems that arise
involving incorrectly attached accessories or
supplies, unadjusted tensions , or that
requires a little dusting or oiling.

2. Major sewing machine trouble


This involves replacing or removing
damage spare parts that made the sewing
machine not totally functioning.

COMMON SEWING MACHINE TROUBLES


Machine Troubles Cause Remedie
s s
1. Machine runs  insufficient oil  oil the
noisily  loose screw sewing
 thread or dust machine
clogged in the  tighten loose
shuttle screw
race.  clean the shuttle
race before oiling
2. Machine rotates  too tight belt  change belt if
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heavily  insufficient oil already old
 bearings or  oil the arm shaft
shuttle race is  clean the shuttle
clogged with race and
dust or thread bearing , then oil
3. Needle thread  improper  check the
breaks threading threading ,
 tight tension change the
 thread too coarse texture of thread
 needle blunt and attach the
set needle properly to
incorrectly the needle bar
 presser foot (flat side of the
not properly needle should
adjusted face the needle
 poor quality thread bar) .
 seam maybe too  use correct
thick or heavy presser foot,
 bobbin case turns check if presser
 fabric is pulled foot is secured
forcibly and properly
 needle may be
fastened
bent
 size of needle  if seam is too
 tension heavy change
needle to correct
size
 check the
position of the
bobbin case,
reset the shuttle
race assembly
 change the
bent needle
 to avoid needle
bending, pull
the upper and
lower threads
toward the rear
of the presser
foot after
stitching and
cut the threads
 don‘t force the
fabric, just guide
it
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 change the
size of needle
 adjust tension
4. Stitches skip  bent needle ,  change the
dull needle or needle or correct
wrongly positioning
attached  change needle
needle size and thread
 unmatched size  increase
of needle or pressure on the
thread to the presser foot
texture of fabric  check the
 no enough threading
pressure on the
presser foot
 threading
maybe
incorrect

5. Stitches loop  dull needle  use blunt needle


 improper  check the
threading threading; if
 unbalance loops appear
tension of the under the fabric,
upper and check the upper
lower threads threading; adjust
 defective thread the upper
take up lever tension
regulator; if the
loops appear on
top of the fabric,
check the lower
threading; the
thread may be
inserted in the
tension groove of
the bobbin ;
check also the
latch spring of
the bobbin case.
 balance the
tension of both
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threads
 change the
thread take up
lever spring.
6. Upper thread  Improper  correct threading
breaks threading  attached the
 Improperly needle correctly
attached needle  change to
 Bent or dull needle blunt needle
 Tight upper thread  reset the
 poor quality thread upper tension
 unmatched needle regulator
 use good
quality thread
and thread
size or texture
7. Lower or under  improper  winding the
thread breaks winding of the thread in the
thread in the bobbin uniformly
bobbin  change the needle
 bent or dull needle  use good
 poor quality thread quality
 incorrectly set thread
feed dog  lower the feed
 bobbin does not dog if the fabric
freely turn is thin; raise the
 too tight bobbin feed dog if the
case spring fabric is thick
 check if bobbin
is clogged with
dirt or thread
 loosen the
adjusting screw
of the bobbin
case or adjusting
the tension of
the upper thread

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8. Seams Pucker  too long stitch 
adjust stitch
length for the regulator to
fabric correct length
 tension is too tight  adjust the upper
 size of needle and and lower tension
thread do not regulator
match  use appropriate
 too high feed dog size of needle and
adjustment thread
 too heavy pressure  adjust the height
on the presser foot of the feed dog
depending on the
thickness or
thinness of the
fabric
 lessen pressure on
the presser foot
9. Fabric does not move  feed dog not in  adjust the feed dog
proper sewing to proper sewing
position position
 stitch regulator  adjust stitch
not set on zero regulator to
 too tight pressure desired stitch
on presser foot length
 add pressure to
presser foot by
adjusting the
pressure regulator screw
10. Fabric jams in  Needle may be too  Change the size of
machine big needle
 Throat plate  Needs round hole
plate

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