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Info4.3-1
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Mechanical power presses are used to punch, shear, form and assemble metal parts for automobiles,
doors and windows, and a variety of other products. Precisely because of their ability to cut through
hard objects, they can be hazardous to anyone operating them, if proper precautions are not taken. In
fact, the Occupational Safety and Health Administration calculated that power-press accidents cause
about 650 amputations per year. Statistics for amputations were so high in metal-working industries
compared to other manufacturing businesses that, several years ago, OSHA developed a National
Emphasis Program to target power press safety for special enforcement and education activities.
“Operating a mechanical power press can be extremely dangerous,” said Greg Watchman, the acting
head of OSHA at the time. “Yet injuries are preventable when employers ensure that guards, which have
long been required and are readily available, are installed and maintained on presses in order to protect
workers against the punching action of metal stamping equipment.”
If your employees work with power presses, they face the greatest danger of injury at the point of
operation where the stock is inserted, held and withdrawn by hand. That is why effective machine
guarding is crucial for keeping hands, arms or other parts of the body from making contact with
dangerous moving parts.
OSHA considers any opening that is more than a quarter-inch wide to be big enough to cause an injury.
These openings must be guarded with barrier guards, two-hand tripping devices or electronic safety
devices. To prevent injuries, your power press safeguards should:
Allow for safe lubrication without having to remove safety guards first.
If your machine guards fail any of the above tests, the power press should not be used until an
appropriate guard can be purchased or fabricated.
Supervisory responsibilities
Check each setup and make sure the operator knows how to run the press safely before
beginning work.
Observe operating procedures and make sure they are followed correctly.
Make sure that proper maintenance procedures are followed and that the presses are repaired,
when necessary, prior to being used.
Purpose of pressing:
To flatten out the undesirable wrinkles, creases and crush marks.
To make creases where the garment design needs it.
To mould the garment to the silhouette of the body.
To prepare garments for further sewing.
To refinish the garment after completion of the production process.
Basic components of pressing:
The main elements of the pressing process are heat, pressure and moisture, which deform fibres,
yarns and fabrics to accomplish the required effect.
1. Heat – It is necessary to soften the fibres, stabilise and set the fabric in the desired shape.
Temperature must be selected based on the fibres, yarns and fabrics.
2. Steam (Moisture) – It is fastest way of transmitting the heat onto the fabric. Steam and heat
are essential to ease the fabric from tension and make the fabric with adequate flexibility so that
it can be moulded to get the required contour.
3. Pressure – It is applied to change the form and increase the durability of the moulding.
Pressure could be applied by means of a mechanical device or steam.
4. Drying – Subsequent to the steam and pressure application on the fabric, the garment panel or
finished garment must be dried and cooled; thus, the fabric can return to its regular moisture
content and steady condition. This could be done by removing the surplus water from the fabric
by means of a vacuum action which cools it at the same time.
5. Time – The time period for which the garment is exposed to steam, pressure and drying
depends on the type of fabric being pressed and there will be an optimal time period for each
component.
There is a large range of equipment available for the pressing of garments, from the simple hand
steam irons to the sophisticated vertical front and back pressing robot. In this article, let us see
about the use of various pressing equipment and methods. The various equipment used are iron,
steam presses, steam air finisher, steam tunnel, pleating and permanent press.
Fig: Pressing equipments of garments
Classification of pressing equipment:
The pressing machines are classified in three major categories based on how the machines are
pressed.
Pressing irons
Buck presses
Mangle presses
Block presses
Form presses
Pleating presses
Creasing machines: Edge folders
2. Moisture Pressure Equipment (Steaming and Wetting)
Thermoelectric machines
Hot plates
Casting equipment
Dry heat ovens
Types of Pressing Equipment:
Solid surface pressing equipment uses a firm surface to apply pressure while steam and heat
mould the fabric, garment or garment parts. Pressure may be applied through a rolling action,
gliding action or compression.
Hand irons:
Iron which is known commonly as iron box has been in existence for a very long time with the
traditional one being used with heat generated using charcoal. There were also irons which were
heated by gas flame inside the metal casting and it was mainly used in touching up of men’s
jackets. However in recent times, steam and electric irons are used commonly.
Fig: Hand iron
The two basic kinds of irons used today are:
1. Dry iron
2. Electric steam irons
Normally, hand irons are available in different shapes and weights:
Narrow hand irons are used for seam opening on sleeves and trouser legs. The wrinkle
marks on the garment are evaded by the narrow sole construction of the steam iron as well
as curved and narrow ironing bucks. Teflon-coated soles should be used for ironing fabrics
that are sensitive to lustre
Wide ones for flat shapes
Pointed shape
Iron table:
The significant factor for the proper selection of an ironing station is the air flow through the
garment to cool it and set it. Some types of ironing tables are listed below:
1. Rough wire mesh – Besides the steam spreading it also improves the vacuum suction.
2. Lower padding – It should be durable as well as heat resistant.
3. Lower layer – Polyester wire screen mesh which distributes the steam.
4. Intermediate padding – This provides the softness of the covering.
5. Upper layer – It is a polyester wire mesh with inlet.
6. Final top cover – It must be less heat resistant than other lower layers.
Steam press/buck press:
Steam presses commonly consist of a static buck and a head of complementary shape closing
onto it, thereby sandwiching the garment to be pressed. It consists of a frame housing the buck
which is normally in round shape for pressing different garments and linkages to close the head
by a scissor action.
Fig: Steam press
Steam is passed to head and buck using a pipe system. Adequate controls are provided for
controlling head closure and vacuum. Vacuum is created to provide suction through the buck
using a vacuum system. The typical pressing cycle is as follows:
A garment need to be pressed is fixed in the buck
↓
The buck head closes and locks
↓
Then steam is applied to the head or the buck to press the garment for a predetermined time
↓
The buck head is released
↓
Vacuum is applied to the garment to cool and dry it
↓
The garment then moved around the buck for the next part of it to be pressed
Similar operations are carried out for completing the pressing of the garment and then the
garment is hung on the hanger. It should be ensured that the garment is not damp or distorted
after pressing. Various types of presses are used in steam pressing. The different steam presses
used for different parts of the garments are collar press, sleeve press, shoulder press, back and
front press, collar master.
Carousel press:
Carousel press is a new development in pressing operation in which a pair of bucks is provided
that rotates between operator and the head. The head can be of single or double based on the
bucks being identical or an opposite pair for pressing the left and right of a garment part. In this
press, scissor action and vertically acting heads can be used.
Steam finisher:
This equipment is known as a form press or a ‘dolly’ press. It has a compressed air system, frame
for a steam distribution system and a pressing form made of a canvas bag in the suitable
silhouette of the garment to be pressed. The pant steam finisher and universal steam finisher are
shown in below figure .
Press cladding:
Bucks of steam presses and the ironing tables used with hand irons are normally covered with
silicone foam. This is covered on the outer side normally by a top cover of polyester woven
fabric. The heads of the steam presses could be covered with several layers of materials like a
layer made of metal gauze for uniform steam distribution, a layer of synthetic felt to shield the
next layer, the main layer of cotton knitted padding, and a last layer of outer cover as on the
buck.
Creasing machines:
This unique kind of small press performs an exceptionally useful function. Creasing machines
are used to fold over and press the edges of clothing components such as pockets or cuffs to
prepare them for easy sewing.
Blades are used to create creases and folds. The component is kept over a die with blades aiding
in forming creases around it and required pressure is exerted during pressing cycle. Creasing
machine is actually preparation underpressing machine. Creasing machine principles and
components are basically alike regardless of type or style of the section being creased by the
machine.
Pleating:
Pleating is the process of creating pleats in the garment. Pleats are a type of fold actually formed
during stitching by doubling fabric upon itself and securing it in place. However, these pleats can
also be introduced in pressing by creating a set of creases in the garment and making it set by
pressing. The pleats can even be according to a geometrical pattern. Pleating is done by using
pressure, moisture and heat. There are two types in machine pleating.
One is a blade machine in which pleats are formed by the action of blades and then set by heat
and pressure when they pass through a pair of rollers and the other type is a rotary machine in
which the rollers are fitted with complimentary dies. Crystal pleating, hand pleating, box pleats
and fan-shaped pleats are some of the examples shown in below figure.
Fiig: Crystal pleating, hand pleating, box pleats and fan-shaped pleats
Block or Die pressing:
In die pressing, the fabric is kept over a fixed die prior to the application of steam, heat and
pressure. This is normally used for shaping and moulding of hat and gloves during the
manufacturing process. Another variety of an automated die pressing machine is utilised for
combined folding and creasing of patch pockets as well as pocket flaps, in which the operator
has to keep the components to be pressed over a die and engages the machine for folding and
creasing.
Permanent press:
The permanent press method normally results in reduction of fabric strength. This method was
developed for producing better crease recovery of cellulosic fabrics. The process involves
processing the fabrics during its manufacture with a resin. A permanent press fabric is processed
after the resin treatment and is then made into garments. The method is commonly used for
trousers to introduce the creases at the seams and hems and down the front and back. The
garments are then passed through an oven to cure the resin in the fabric.
The concept of nanotechnology is also making its way into garment finishing. New
nanotechnology-based concepts such as ease release, quick wick and rare care finishes further
improve the functionally of the textile by imparting the various properties such as soil release,
anti-pilling effect, water/oil repellency, hygiene effect, easy care and odour-free effect.
References:
1. Apparel Manufacturing Technology by T. Karthik, P. Ganesan, and D. Gopalakrishnan
2. Garment Manufacturing Technology by Rajkishore Nayak and Rajiv Padhye
http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/01/methods-equipments-garment-pressing.html
Info4.4-1
What is finishing…??????
material to-
– Give a good appearance
– Desirab...
Classification of finishing
Info4.4-2
Garment packaging:
Garment packaging is an important part of the apparel manufacturing. Appropriate
packages design and production mainly depend on the product types. Sometimes it is
also depends on the buyers instructions. Packaging can be described as a coordinated
system of preparing goods for transport, warehousing, logistics, sale, and end.
Types of packaging:
Packagings are mainly two types and that based on two different ways they are
Benefits of packaging:
Packaging can have features that add benefits in distribution, handling, stacking,
display, sale, opening, reclosing, use, dispensing, reuse, recycling, and ease of
disposal.
Functions of packing:
Packaging is the last stage of apparel manufacturing process. A perfect packaging is
an important part for any product that helps to receive the customer attention. Some
essential packaging functions are following:
Protection:
The main function of packaging usually involves protecting the products from the any
environmental hazards and others. It helps to protect the goods from loss, damage and
stealing. During transport, handling and storage operations different types of protections
are needed. They are two types like Physical and Barrier protection.
Barrier: A barrier from humidity, precipitation and solar radiation, oxygen water vapor,
dust, etc.,
Storage:
Packaging products must be stored in many different locations. So, to fill up this storage
function all the packaging materials and packaging containers are should be checked
before packaging the product or garment.
Promotional function:
The packaging is the important promotional functions to attract the customer’s and
buyers attention and to have a positive impact upon the purchasing decision.
Sales:
It helps to promote the sales process and to make it more feasible.
Information transmission:
Packages and labels give the detail information about product like how to use,
ingredients, transport, nature, composition, weight, quantity, storage, recycle or dispose
of the package or product.
Security:
Packaging can play an important role in reducing the security risks of shipment.
Info4.4-3
Care labels often are a deciding factor when consumers shop for clothing. While some consumers look
for the convenience of drycleaning, others prefer the economy of washable garments. In fact, surveys
show that consumers want washing instructions. Some manufacturers try to reach both markets with
garments that can be cleaned by either method. The Rule lets you provide more than one set of care
instructions, if you have a reasonable basis for each instruction. Some manufacturers provide instructions
for both methods but add, "For best results, dryclean." This tells consumers that the garment can be
washed without damage, but drycleaning may be better for appearance and durability. If truthful and
substantiated, care instructions like these are acceptable.
In March 2014, the Commission held a public roundtable discussion on the amendments to the Rule that
were proposed in September 2012. A recording of the discussion is available.
Who's Covered
manufacturers and importers of textile wearing apparel
manufacturers and importers of piece goods sold to consumers for making wearing apparel
any person or organization that directs or controls the manufacturing or importing of textile
wearing apparel or piece goods for making wearing apparel
What's Covered
Textile apparel worn to cover or protect the body
o Exempt apparel: shoes, gloves and hats
o Excluded items:
Handkerchiefs, belts, suspenders and neckties
Non-woven garments made for one-time use
o Piece goods sold for making apparel at home
o Exempt piece goods:
Marked manufacturers' remnants of up to 10 yards when the fiber content is not
known and cannot be determined easily
Trim up to five inches wide
provide complete instructions about regular care for the garment, or provide warnings if the
garment cannot be cleaned without harm
ensure that, if followed, care labeling instructions will cause no substantial harm to the product;
and
warn consumers about certain procedures that they may assume to be consistent with the
instructions on the label, but that would harm the product. For example, if a pair of pants is labeled for
washing, consumers may assume they can iron them. If the pants would be harmed by ironing, the label
should read, "Do not iron."
Reasonable Basis
You must have a reasonable basis for all care instructions and warnings — that is, reliable evidence to
support the care instructions. For example, you can’t say "Dryclean Only" unless you have proof that
washing will harm the garment.
Labeling Clothing
Attach labels so consumers can easily see or find them at the point of sale.
If packaging gets in the way, place additional care information on the outside of the package or
on a hang-tag attached to the product.
Labels must be attached permanently and securely.
Labels must be legible during the useful life of the product.
A garment with two or more parts that is sold as a unit needs only one care label if the care
instructions are the same for all parts. Attach the label to the major piece of the suit. If the suit pieces
require different care instructions or — like coordinates — are designed to be sold separately, each item
must have its own care label.
Exemptions
These items don't need permanent care labels, but must have conspicuous temporary labels at the point
of sale:
Products sold to institutional buyers for commercial use; for example, uniforms sold to employers
for employee use in job-related activities, but not bought by the employees.
Garments custom-made of material provided by the consumer.
Products granted exemptions under Section (c)(2) of the original rule because they were
completely washable and sold at retail for $3 or less. If the product no longer meets this standard, the
exemption is automatically revoked.
Violations
Failing to provide reliable care instructions and warnings for the useful life of an item is a violation of the
FTC Act. Violators are subject to enforcement actions and penalties of up to $16,000 for each offense. In
enforcement actions, the FTC contends that each mislabeled garment is a violation. Since 1990, the FTC
has brought 16 enforcement actions; 15 were resolved by settlements and one was litigated. Penalties
have ranged as high as $300,000.
Sometimes, because of the particular combination of components, a garment can’t be safely washed or
drycleaned, but a manufacturer still wants to market it. The label on such a garment must say "Do not
wash — Do not dryclean."
We recommend, but don't require, that you use the terms defined in the Rule's Appendix A Glossary
when they apply.
You may use the care symbols from the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) designated
as ASTM Standard D5489-96c Standard Guide for Care Symbols for Care Instructions on Textile
Products, in place of words, but the symbols must fulfill the requirements of the Rule. These symbols are
similar, but not identical, to the symbols designated as an international standard by the International
Standards Organization (ISO) and used in many European countries.
Although only the ASTM symbols are approved for use in the United States, in September 2012 the
Commission proposed amending the Rule to allow the use of the updated ASTM symbols in ASTM
Standard D5489-07, and the ISO symbols in ISO Standard 3758:2005(E).
The label must say whether the product should be washed by hand or machine, and give a water
temperature setting if regular use of hot water will harm the product.
Two: Bleaching
If all commercially available bleaches can be used on a regular basis without harming the product, the
label doesn’t have to mention bleach.
If using chlorine bleach on a regular basis will harm the product, but using non-chlorine bleach on a
regular basis won’t, the label must say, "Only non-chlorine bleach, when needed."
If all commercially available bleaches would harm the product when used on a regular basis, the label
must say, "No bleach" or "Do not bleach."
Three: Drying
The label must say whether the product should be dried by machine or another method. Unless regular
use of high temperature will harm the product when machine dried, it’s not necessary to indicate a
temperature setting.
Four: Ironing
If a product needs repeated ironing, the care label must give ironing information. If regular use of a hot
iron won’t harm a product, it’s not necessary to indicate a temperature setting.
Five: Warnings
If you have a reasonable expectation that a consumer could use a care procedure that will harm the
product, the label must contain a warning like "Do not," "No," or "Only," to warn against the harmful
procedure. For example, if a garment will be harmed by ironing, and you expect a consumer could
occasionally “touch up” the garment, the label should state, "Do not iron."
If a care procedure on one product could harm another product that is washed with it, the label must
include a warning. For example, if an item is not colorfast, the label must say "Wash with like colors" or
"Wash separately."
Warnings aren’t necessary for alternative procedures that could be harmful. For example, if the
instructions state "Dry flat," it's not necessary to state "Do not tumble dry."
Drycleaning Instructions
You may use a simple "dryclean" instruction under two conditions:
If all commercially available types of solvent can be used, the label doesn't have to mention any
particular type. But if any solvents would harm the product, you must mention a safe solvent. For
example, "Dryclean, petroleum solvent."
If the drycleaning process, as defined in the Rule, can be used on the garment with no
modifications, you may use a simple “dryclean.”
If any part of the drycleaning process would harm the product, the "dryclean" instruction must include a
warning to avoid or modify that part of the process. The label must use "Do not," "No," "Only," or other
clear wording. For example, if steam would damage a garment, the label should say "Dryclean. No
steam."
If the normal drycleaning process must be modified the label may say, "Professionally dryclean. No
steam." The label should not use "Professionally dryclean" if there’s no need to modify the normal
drycleaning process. By itself, "Professionally dryclean" is not an adequate instruction. The label should
use “Professionally dryclean” only with instructions for modifying the process; for example, “Professionally
dryclean. No steam.”
Remember that "Dryclean Only" warns that the garment can’t be washed. For any warning on the label,
you must have evidence that the process warned against will damage the garment. Garments may be
labeled "Dryclean Only" only if you have evidence that washing will damage the garment.
FAQs
Label Location
Q. May care instructions be on the back of another permanent label sewn into the garment?
A. You can put care information on the reverse side of a permanent label if only one end of the permanent
label is sewn into the garment and the consumer has easy access to the front and back of the label. The
front of the label doesn't have to say "Care on reverse."
Q. Does each piece of an ensemble, suit or other multi-piece garment need a care label?
A. A garment that has two parts or more and is always sold as a unit needs only one care label if the care
instructions are the same for all the pieces. The label should be attached to the major piece of the suit. If
the suit pieces require different care instructions or are designed to be sold separately, each item must
have its own care label.
A. Yes, if the instructions meet the Rule's requirements of permanence and legibility.
A. Yes, if the instructions meet the Rule's requirements of permanence and legibility.
Label Content
Q. What's the minimum washing instruction that can appear on a care label?
A. A minimum washing instruction would include a method of washing and a method of drying, like
"Machine wash. Tumble dry." This minimal wording means:
the product can be machine washed and tumble dried at any temperature
ironing isn't necessary
any type of bleach can be used and
no warnings are required.
All elements of a proper washing instruction — washing, drying, ironing, bleaching and warnings — must
be considered.
Q. Generally, when wash-and-wear garments are removed promptly from the dryer, they don't
need ironing. But if garments aren't removed promptly, they might wrinkle and require some
pressing with a cool iron. Does a care instruction have to address this?
A. Yes. The Rule requires ironing instructions if ironing is needed on a regular basis to preserve the
product’s appearance, or as a special warning when you expect a consumer to use an iron and a hot iron
would harm the product. In these cases, the instruction could read "Cool iron, if needed."
Q. Is it proper if the bleach portion of a washing instruction says "Do not use chlorine bleach"?
A. No. A care label that says only "Do not use chlorine bleach" is unacceptable. If using chlorine bleach
frequently would harm the product, but using non-chlorine bleach would not, the label must say, "Only
non-chlorine bleach, when needed." This instruction warns consumers that chlorine bleach isn’t safe for
regular use, but non-chlorine bleach is. For clarity, the care label may say "Only non-chlorine bleach,
when needed. Do not use chlorine bleach."
Q. Does the Rule permit a care label that says "Wash in warm water. Block to dry. Do not use
bleach."?
A. No. This instruction is not complete. The Rule requires washing instructions to state whether the
product should be washed by hand or machine.
Q. Does a care instruction have to consider components like linings, trim, buttons or zippers?
A. Yes. Care instructions must include all components of the product, including non-detachable linings,
trim and other details. The instructions should contain any special considerations for components as a
warning; for example, "Remove trim," or "Close zipper." A detachable component, like a slip-out liner,
must be labeled separately if it requires a different care procedure than the main product.
A. "Dryclean only" may be used when the garment can be drycleaned safely by the normal process, using
any drycleaning solvent. The instruction indicates that the garment can't be safely washed. When you use
"Dryclean only," you must have a reasonable basis for both the drycleaning instruction and the warning
against washing.
A. Yes. A drycleaning instruction generally must include a type of solvent that can be used safely (say,
perchlorethylene or petroleum); if any type of commercially available solvent can be used, it’s not
necessary to name a type of solvent. A care instruction with only the word "Dryclean" means any solvent
may be used safely in a process that includes machine cleaning, moisture addition to solvent of up to
75% relative humidity, hot tumble drying up to 160 degrees Fahrenheit, and restoration by steam press or
steam-air finishing.
A. Use "Professionally dryclean" when the normal drycleaning process must be modified to dryclean the
product safely. "Professionally dryclean" is not an adequate instruction by itself. It must be accompanied
by the modification(s) necessary to make the drycleaning process safe. For example, "Professionally
dryclean, reduce moisture, short cycle, tumble warm, no steam" would mean any commercially available
solvent could be used, the moisture addition to the solvent should be reduced, the cleaning time should
be reduced, the warm setting should be used for tumble drying, and steam should not be used in pressing
or finishing.
Care Symbols
Q. Must symbols be used?
A. No. Symbols are optional as long as care instructions are on the label. If you choose to use symbols
without words, you might want to include information about the meaning of the symbols — perhaps on a
hangtag or in your catalogue — to be sure your customers understand them.
Q. May the system of symbols used in Europe and designated as an international standard by the
International Standards Organization (ISO) be used?
A. No. The symbols you use must be those developed by the ASTM and designated as ASTM Standard
D5489-96c. In September 2012, the Commission proposed amending the Rule to allow the use of the
symbols in ASTM Standard D5489-07, and the ISO symbols in ISO Standard 3758:2005(E).
A. Under the Rule, “certain piece goods” are fabrics sold at retail on a piece-by-piece basis from bolts,
pieces or rolls for use in home sewing of textile wearing apparel. The term "fabric" means any material
woven, knitted, felted or otherwise produced from, or in combination with, any natural or manufactured
fiber, yarn or substitute.
trim up to 5 inches wide, like ribbon, lace, rick-rack, tape, belting, binding or braid and
manufacturer's remnants up to 10 yards long when the remnants are clearly and conspicuously
marked as "pound goods" or "fabric of undetermined origin," and the fiber content of the remnants is
unknown and can't be readily determined.
If a remnant's fiber content is known, it's not excluded from the Rule. Remnants created at the retail level,
or by the manufacturer at the retailer’s request aren’t excluded either.
Q. Manufacturers and importers must put care information for piece goods "on the end of each
bolt or roll." Is there any specific location for this information?
A. Yes. Hosiery products, including stockings, anklets, waist-high tights, panty hose and leg warmers, are
exempt. Hosiery items don't need a permanent care label, but they must have care instructions on a hang
tag, on the package or in another conspicuous place. This includes sheer hosiery of 50 denier or less.
Hosiery that retails for $3 or less and that can be washed and dried at hot settings without damage
doesn't need a label.
Drycleaners
Q. Must a drycleaner clean a garment according to the instructions on the care label?
A. No, but using a care method not specified on a care label may be risky. Clothing labeled as washable
may not dryclean satisfactorily. Many local drycleaners have facilities for properly washing and finishing
washable garments, but customers who ask for a method of cleaning not listed on the care label may be
asked to sign a consent form explaining that the drycleaner and the customer have discussed the
potential risks of cleaning the garment. With or without the consent form, when drycleaners accept
garments for cleaning, they are obligated to clean garments professionally, to the best of their ability.
"Professionally Wetclean"
Q. Does a care label that states "Professionally wetclean" comply with the Care Labeling Rule?
A. No. The subject was of considerable interest during the last amendment proceedings, and is discussed
at length in the Care Labeling Rule Statement of Basis and Purpose. In September 2012, the Commission
proposed amending the Rule to allow a wetcleaning instruction for items that can be professionally
wetcleaned.