Cheese Ripening: Technological Aspects

Eva-Maria Dusterhoft, Wim Engels, and Thom Huppertz, NIZO, Ede, The Netherlands
© 2017 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Introduction 1
Typical Ripening Conditions for Different Cheese Types 1
Natural Ripening 2
Ripening of Coated Cheeses 2
Bacterial Surface-Ripened Cheeses 3
Cheese Warehouses and Cheese Treatment Lines 3
Foil Ripening 3
Further Reading 4

Introduction

While some cheeses, e.g. cottage cheese, Ricotta, Mozzarella, Queso blanco, are ready for consumption within 1 week from produc-
tion and are consumed fresh, most soft, semi-hard and hard cheeses are ripened, for periods of time ranging from 4 weeks to as long
as 2 years (e.g., Parmigiano Reggiano). During maturation, their flavor, texture, appearance and functionality develop. This
development is a result of physical and (bio)chemical changes (proteolysis, glycolysis, lipolysis), which are governed by the
microbiology, enzymatic activity and the composition of the curd, as established during the manufacturing stages.
Cheese ripening can take place under two basic regimes:
l Natural ripening, i.e., under drying conditions, as is the case for ‘rinded’ cheese
l Foil-ripening, i.e., in moisture-impermeable packages, as is the case for ‘rindless’ cheese).
This chapter describes, for semi-hard and hard cheeses, the steps following cheese manufacture, i.e. storage and maturation, in
which the rate and extent of ripening can be influenced by temperature and - in the case of rinded cheeses - humidity control.
For mold-ripening, the reader is referred to other chapters of Food Reference Modules.

Typical Ripening Conditions for Different Cheese Types

Traditionally, cheeses were ripened in natural caves or cellars, which allowed to have reasonably constant conditions with regard to
temperature, humidity and air flow. While this principle is still used for regionally produced specialty cheeses (e.g., blue mold
ripened cheeses as Roquefort) or in local, small scale production units, modern industrial cheese producers and cheese ripening
companies operate large highly automatized store houses, in which temperature and humidity are strictly controlled. Typical
storage/ripening conditions per cheese type are:
- Cheddar (mostly foil-ripened): 4–8  C;
- Gouda-type cheeses: 12–15  C and 85%–88% RH for natural ripened or 6–8  C for foil-ripened;
- Parmesan/Grana type cheeses: 18–20  C at  85% RH;
- Swiss-type cheeses with eye formation by propionic acid bacteria: a sequence of varying ripening temperatures is applied: e.g.,
2 weeks at 12  C, followed by 4 weeks at  20  C, i.e., ‘hot room ripening’ to stimulate growth of the thermophilic propionic acid
bacteria and the desired gas and eye formation, followed by further ripening at e.g., 8  C, to retard further activity of the same
bacteria. The majority of Swiss-type cheeses is foil ripened in vacuum-bags (e.g., Maasdam, Jarlsberg) but PDO (protected
designation of origin) Emmental cheeses are ripened at 70%–80% RH.
- Bacterial surface-ripened cheese generally: 8–15  C, but sometimes up to 20  C at 90% RH, depending on the type of cheese.
The ripening conditions have a direct effect on the rate of maturation. Proteolysis and other enzymatic processes proceed slower at
low temperatures (as usually applied in foil-ripened cheeses, or when a natural ripened cheese has reached its desired degree of
maturation and is stored under refrigerated conditions to prolong shelf-life). Thus, the degree of protein breakdown of a foil ripened
(6  C) Gouda type cheese after 3 months ripening is approximately 30% lower than that of a naturally ripened counterpart (all
other factors being constant).

1
2 Cheese Ripening: Technological Aspects

Natural Ripening
Ripening of Coated Cheeses
Notably for large cheeses meant to undergo extended periods of ripening at elevated temperatures, e.g., 4 months up to > 1 year at
12–14  C or higher, as for Dutch Gouda cheese, natural ripening under drying conditions is applied. In natural ripening, the
humidity in the ripening room is usually adjusted in such a way that moisture evaporation is restricted while mold growth must
be prevented: a typical range for Gouda-type cheese is 85%–88% RH, whereas 70%–80% RH is used in traditional Emmental cheese
production.
For natural ripening, polyvinyl-acetate-based aqueous dispersions are applied to the cheese surfaces and sides by passing them
through a coating machine with rotating flaps or brushes. Upon drying, which usually takes 1–2 days, a coherent, transparent
hydrophilic polymer film is formed that functions as a protective coating against mechanical damage and reduces moisture
evaporation. This coating procedure is repeated on the other side of the cheese, two to three times during the first 2 weeks, and
subsequently with gradually diminishing frequency during further ripening. The drying of the coated cheese surface and of the
shelves is controlled by the climate conditions (temperature, air velocity, humidity) in the curing room, as is the decrease in
moisture content of the cheese and its weight loss. For a typical Gouda-type cheese, the moisture content decreases by 1%–2%
during the first 10 days, but the rate of moisture evaporation decreases steadily with increasing time (Fig. 1). In the rind zone,
i.e., the outer 0.5 cm, the moisture content decreases to <30% within 3 months. Drying and lack of proteolysis gives the rind of
a mature cheese a tough and hard consistency and a somewhat translucent appearance.
Cheese coatings may contain fungicidal components to further reduce the risk of mold development. Examples are natamycin
(pimaricin), which is only active against molds and yeasts and calcium and sodium sorbate. The type and dosage used is subject to
local regulations.
The conditions for natural ripening must allow the coating dispersion to dry rather quickly to prevent microbial growth
(e.g., yeasts, coryneform bacteria or molds), especially in the contact area between the cheese and the shelve, where higher humidity
can occur. Such undesired microbial growth may lead to off-flavor formation, discoloration and a sticky and dirty surface. Frequent
turning of the cheese is essential to prevent this and to allow the cheese to retain the desired shape. With respect to ripening
temperature, 17  C is a practical hurdle. Above this temperature, a large proportion of the milk fat is liquid and cheese exudes
fat, a process referred to as “sweating” of the cheese. If higher ripening temperatures are desired to accelerate ripening, a paper
banderole is sometimes wrapped around the cheese.
The use of wooden shelves in natural cheese ripening is still common because of the advantage of adsorbing some moisture from
the (young) cheese. However, the use of wooden shelves also requires special attention from a hygienic point of view. A strict
maintenance program of cleaning and drying the shelves combined with the coating treatment of the cheeses may guarantee
sufficient safety. Smaller cheeses, such as baby types and Edam, are sometimes ripened in coarse plastic nets or in perforated molds
of a stainless-steel plate and dry on all sides. Stainless steel shelves, an easier to clean alternative to wooden shelves, have been tested
with promising results (Allersma et al., 2009). The uptake in industrial practice, however, is still low.
Some cheese types are treated with cheese wax (paraffin) either directly (e.g. Baby Bel, peel-off wax) or after natural ripening and
before delivering, especially when exported (e.g. Edam cheese, and other naturally ripened cheeses). Application of wax (by dipping
or by conveying through a molten wax line) occurs at approximately 80  C and creates a moisture and gas-impermeable layer that
solidifies upon cooling on air or in water. A clean and dry surface before application of wax is a prerequisite, otherwise bacterial
growth may occur with off-flavor and gas formation as a result.

Figure 1 Weight loss of natural ripened Gouda-type cheese in the initial stages of maturation as function of relative humidity in the ware house.
 Cheese Ripening: Technological Aspects 3

Bacterial Surface-Ripened Cheeses

A special class of natural ripened cheeses are the so-called bacterial surface-ripened, or (red) smear-ripened, cheeses. They have
a distinct taste and a red-brown surface color which is due to a complex mixture of microorganisms that colonize the outer
surfaces of the cheese. Examples of such cheeses are the soft cheeses Pont l’Evêque, Munster, Herve and Reblochon. The harder
cheeses Tilsit, Gruyère and Port du Salut also carry a bacterial smear. The typical feature of smear-ripened cheeses is the presence
of specific aerobic yeast and bacterial species on the cheese surface. These microorganisms are applied in addition to the
mesophilic or thermophilic, generally mixed-strain, acidifying starter and they primarily determine the distinguishing flavor
properties of the cheeses.
The microorganisms on the surface include yeasts, such as Debaryomyces hanseni, and bacteria such as staphylococci, brevibac-
teria, corynebacteria and Arthrobacter species. Growth of the microflora is initiated by smearing of young cheeses with a brine or
whey solution containing appropriate microorganisms during a ripening period which proceeds for several weeks. The yeasts
(e.g., Debaryomyces hansenii) in the smear starter grow first while utilizing lactate and increasing the surface pH of the cheese.
When the pH increases to values above pH 6, bacterial species such as Brevibacterium linens, other coryneform bacteria and
staphylococci begin to grow and eventually cover the whole surface of the cheese.
The smear microorganisms applied may be of commercial source or are transferred from the surface of mature cheeses to the
smearing solution by washing the surface of the mature cheese (old-young smearing). Also brines without added smear starter
are applied. Smearing is performed mostly mechanical by brushing, (cloth) wiping or spraying, depending on the firmness of
the cheese, and is repeated frequently during, at least, the early stages of ripening. Correct handling and storage of smear cheeses
during ripening is essential. Ripening temperatures range from 8  C to 20  C, and the humidity should be at least 95%, Excessive
ventilation should be avoided. In addition, repeated turning of cheeses and, as mentioned above, repeated smearing is essential for
ripening. In some varieties, the mature cheese is allowed to dry and is subsequently coated.

Cheese Warehouses and Cheese Treatment Lines

The intensive treatment of the cheeses during natural ripening requires strict control and adequate balancing between cheese quality
and microbial stability on the one hand, and yield loss on the other. Complete air conditioning systems are required to adjust
humidity and temperature of the incoming air. The processes in large warehouses with capacities of, e.g., up to 500,000 cheeses
are highly mechanized, for example, transport, coating and turning of cheese, and cleaning of shelves. The shelves with cheeses
are positioned in boxes of variable size, which are conveyed to the coating line and placed back by robot systems. Next to the coating
machine, which applies the latex dispersion to the top and approximately 60% of the sides of a cheese in one turn, a cheese
treatment line comprises board washers to soak, clean and dry the shelves, and optionally cheese and board transport lines and
turner. In addition to cleaning the shelves with detergent and rinsing, also the brushes, brush hood and conveyor belts should
be cleaned regularly to reduce microbial adhesion in the system and reduce cross contamination from one cheese to the other.
Much progress has been made in controlling the temperature, relative humidity, velocity of air and its distribution through nozzles
positioned at each layer of cheese to approximate the ideal situation in which each cheese loaf is stored under identical conditions.
Good insulation of the curing rooms is very important to prevent condensation of water on the walls at the desired high humidity of
the air, which otherwise may result in mold growth.

Foil Ripening

The vast majority of semi-hard and hard cheeses is vacuum-packed in plastic bags or films, either after brining, or by direct filling
the acidified salted curd in bags, as for Cheddar and related types. Two systems, thermoform or shrink coating are available. The
medium-barrier plastic films have low permeability for moisture and O2, to prevent moisture loss and mold growth. The
permeability for CO2 varies, as required for the respective cheese type. Cheeses with much gas formation, e.g. Swiss type, require
higher C02 permeability (e.g., higher than 680 cm3/m2/day at 23  C and 93% RH), to prevent ballooning and loosening of the
wrapping, and a relatively low O2 permeability (less than 100 cm3/m2/day at 23  C and 93% RH). As mono-layers do not usually
provide all the properties/requirements to protect the different cheese varieties, it is common to use coextruded multilayer materials,
which comprise PA or PVDC barrier layers (e.g. PA/PE, PE/PA/PE, PE/PVDC/PE) or laminated compounds with a PET outer layer
(Sturm, 1998).
The wrapped cheeses (e.g., rectangular so-called Euroblocks of 15 kg each) are piled in boxes or crates and ripened at the desired
temperatures (e.g., below 8  C). The cooling rate of such closely packed cheeses is rather slow (and decreases with increasing loaf
size); it can take many days until the desired low temperature is reached in the interior of the boxes. Maintenance of the cheese as in
natural ripening is unnecessary. When changing ripening conditions as, e.g., in Swiss-type cheeses (from hot room to 6  C), stepwise
temperature reduction is applied to reduce the risk of crack formation which may occur, as retardation of the metabolic activity of
the gas forming bacteria upon cooling is a slower process than the increase in cheese viscosity. After ripening, rindless cheeses can be
easily cut into consumer sized packages, or slices without losses.
4 Cheese Ripening: Technological Aspects

Further Reading

McSweeney, P.L.H., Fox, P.F., Cotter, P.D., Everett, D.W. (Eds.), 2017. Cheese. Chemistry, Physics & Microbiology, fourth ed.
Dairy Processing Handbook, 1995. Tetra Pak, Lund, Sweden.
Schneider, Y., Kluge, C., Weiß, U., Rohm, H., 2010. Packaging materials and equipment. In: Law, B.A., Tamime, A.Y. (Eds.), Technology of Cheesemaking, second ed. Blackwell
Publishing Ltd.
Sturm, W., 1998. Verpackung milchwirtschaftlicher Lebensmittel, Edition. IMQ, Kempten.
Walstra, P., Wouters, J.T.M., Geurts, T.J., 2006. Dairy Science and Technology. Taylor & Francis, Boca Raton, USA.
Law, Barry A., Tamime, A.Y. (Eds.), 2010. Technology of Cheesemaking, second ed. Wiley-Blackwell, UK.