ROLE OF MERCHANDISER IN APPAREL INDUSTRY –

EXPORT ORGANIZATION

Introduction to Apparel Industry

The garment industry in India is one of the best in the world. An extremely well
organized sector, garment manufacturers, exporters, suppliers, stockists and wholesalers
are the gateway to an extremely enterprising clothing and apparel industry in India. There
are numerous garments exporters, garment manufacturers etc. both in the small scale as
well as large scale.

The Indian apparel industry has seen remarkable changes in the past few years and it is
also one of the India's largest foreign exchange earners. Embroidery being the traditional
art form of the country has contributed hugely for apparel industry. Indian embroidery
market stands out as being extraordinary in the international markets.

The Indian apparel industry has a vast existence in the economic life of the country. It
plays a critical role in the economic development of the country with its contribution to
industrial output, export earnings of the country and the generation of employment. 

Indian readymade garments and textiles are extremely popular the world over. Today,
garment exports from India have made inroads into the international market for their
durability, quality and beauty. One of the reasons for the economical pricing of India's
readymade garments and apparels is the availability of highly skilled, cheap labor in the
country.

Functioning of Apparel Industry

In an apparel industry, merchandiser plays an important role. He/she acts as a marketer to

get the orders from the buyers. All the information about the orders will be processed by
the merchandiser and disseminated to other departments in the form of Order
Confirmation (OC) which is internal. Like stores – for fabric store along with the order
details the fabric consumption per garment is given so as to issue the exact quantity (in
meters) of fabric to avoid wastage. To the accessories department the order details along
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with the samples of accessories and the number of units required per garment are
mentioned so as to avoid the confusion as they will be handling different orders.
Likewise all the departments will be given the required details along with the order
confirmation.

Apart from the above merchandiser has to do the following ---

 Correspondence with the buyer (regular updates on the order status)

 Getting approvals from the buyer

 Co-ordination, negotiation and follow up with the suppliers

 Co-ordination with all the departments involved

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 MERCHANDISING FUNCTION & CORRELATION TO VARIOUS
DEPARTMENTS IN APPAREL EXPORT ORGANIZATION

BOSS

Order

Feedback
Feedback
Order Details

BUYER PURCHAS
Order L/C specifications E
& Approvals
Material requirement
& Purchase plan

Material receipts
PO Status & issue status
Samples, Order
confirmation

MERCHANDISE
R
Export garments Material Plan PO inputs

Shipment

Delivery schedule information Material Status

SHIPPING STORES
Samples
&Production Status

Production chart + plan

Packed garments (DO to

Clearing agent) Fabric & Accessories

PRODUCTIO
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N&
QUALITY
First step in the process is meeting with the buyer. Before visiting the unit buyer wants
some samples to be done by the manufacturer. Buyer visits the unit and when the meeting
starts the manufacturer has to show the samples developed by them. The buyer also
brings some styles along with him and asks the manufacturer to make the costing. If the
costing is approved by the buyer then they will place the order. All the details like the
picture, measurement chart and the type of trims required are provided at this time. From
this point on wards the sampling starts.

After this there are three processes which will take place simultaneously, they are ---

1. The development of fabrics as well as the trims starts from the factory side
2. The order confirmation details will be provided by the buyer

3. Samples have to be submitted to the buyer from the factory side.

As soon as the merchandiser receives the fabrics and trims they have to be sent to the
buyer for approval. If they are approved then the merchandiser has to give the details to
the purchase department to raise the bill of material.

Simultaneously the merchandiser will be getting the samples done and as soon as the
approval comes on counter (fit) sample, he/she has to proceed further with the size set
and photo samples. Once these are approved pre-production samples have to be
submitted. Along with the pre-production samples all the originals like fabric, trims are
submitted to the buyer. If the garment contains print/embroidery/washing then the swatch
of this also should be attached along with the pre-production samples.

If the pre-production samples are approved, then only they have to proceed with the
production. Before starting the production, all the order details should be provided to the

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various departments. This stage is very crucial as we have to submit these samples in the
original fabric, trims, polybag and packing.

Stores will be receiving the order quantity (size wise, color wise), type & number of trims
required per garment.

Fabric stores will be receiving the order quantity (size wise, color wise), consumption per
garment.

Cutting department will be receiving the order quantity (size wise, color wise), number of
pieces to be cut(size wise, color wise) and the measurement chart. Before cutting starts all
the patterns have to be made size wise.

Production department will be receiving the order quantity (size wise, color wise),
number of pieces to be produced (size wise, color wise) and the measurement chart & the
styling details along with the approved sample.

Quality checking will be inline i.e, as soon as the parts comes out of the machine the
checking will be done so as to avoid the mistakes. After this the entire garment will be
checked for fabric defects, measurement defects, stains …etc. The quality checking
department will be provided with the measurement chart and styling details.

The finished garments are moved to finishing department where the pressing and
packing will takes place. This department will be provided with the information of order
quantity (size wise, color wise), packing details whether the garments have to be packed
in single polybag, or there is any ratio has to be followed. Usually the ratio will be
1:2:2:1 (S:M:L:XL), 6pcs per polybag. The number pieces to be packed in the carton and
the carton markings.

All departments along with the details of the order, will be provided with the fabric
cuttings in which the production will take place and the order will be executed.

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The documentation department will be provided with the order details. This department
should be updated with all the details whether the order will be executed on time as per
the schedule given by the buyer, the quantity is going to be shipped (partial or full) so as
to book the container according to the requirement.

All this process revolves around the merchandiser. If there are any changes in the order
like order quantity, styling details, measurements, placements of trims, packing details …
etc.

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 PROCESS OF ORDER EXECUTION

There are many steps involved in the process of an order execution. The process is
illustrated below ---

Buyer’s Meeting

Costing

Order Confirmation

Development of fabrics & accessories Pattern Making & Sampling

Approval
Approval Production Schedule

Rising
Raisingpurchase orders
purchase for fabric
orders for & accessories
fabric & accessories Production

Receiving the material Inspection (checking)

Issue of material to production & packing Ironing

Packing

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 PROCESS OF KNIT GARMENT

Receipts of Grey yarn

Receipts of Stitching Accessories

Issue of grey yarn for Knitting

Receive Grey Fabric

Issue Grey fabric to processing Dyeing / Printing / Bleaching (White)

Receive Finished Fabric

Issue Finished fabric for cutting

Receive cut pieces

Issue pieces for Embroidery / Printing(say Pocket or Sleeve)

Receive pieces from embroidery / Printing

Issue pieces + accessories for stitching

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 Receive stitched pieces

Issue pieces for checking

Receive pieces from checking

Send pieces for alteration

Receive pieces from alteration

Issue pieces to finishing

Receive pieces from finishing

Issue to ironing

Receive from ironing

Issue garments + packing accessories to packing

Ship packed garments

TYPES OF SAMPLES TO BE DEVELOPED WHILE EXECUTING THE ORDER

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 Counter Sample

Photo Sample

Size set Sample

Pre production Sample

Production Sample or
Shipment Sample

Counter sample can be developed in alternate fabric. Usually one size (L) will be

produced.

Photo sample should be developed in the original fabric.

Size set samples can also be developed in alternate fabric. Usually three sizes (S,M,XL)

will be produced.

Pre production samples should be developed in the right fabric with the right trims and

right packing. This will be the base for the production. No deviations from this samples

will be accepted.

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Production samples should be picked from the production and sent, so as to intimate the

buyer how the production is going on.

DIFFERENT DEPARTMENTS INVOLVED IN THE UNIT

There are several departments involved in a manufacturing unit. A typical manufacturing

unit consist the following departments ---

1. Sampling
2. Merchandising

3. Purchase

4. Stores (Fabric & trims separately)

5. Pattern Making & Cutting

6. Production

7. Inspection (Checking)

8. Ironing

9. Finishing & Packing the goods

10. Documentation

Some units also contain the in-house facilities like Computer Aided Designing (CAD/
CAM) Embroidery, Printing & Washing.

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