Development of polyester fabric waterproof, moisture-permeable and water-

and oil-repellent finishing

Li Shuhua (Nantong Textile Vocational and Technical College, Nantong, 226007) Liu Zhaofeng and Hu
Panpan (Donghua University)

Abstract: Review the waterproof and moisture-permeable finishing of polyester fabrics and the
mechanism, methods, and types of finishing agents for polyester fabrics, and discuss the lotus leaf The
application and development prospect of the effect in the water and oil repellent finishing of polyester
fabrics. Keywords: polyester fiber, polyester fiber, waterproof, moisture-permeable, water-repellent, oil-
repellent finishing, lotus leaf effect,

Polyester is one of the largest varieties of textile chemical fibers that affects the overall output [1]. In
recent years, it has been used in tents, high-performance cleaning cloths, interior decoration fabrics
such as cars, airplanes, carpets, sofa fabrics, wall coverings, etc. in addition to artificial silk thin clothing
fabrics [2]. Its textile products are developing in the direction of functionalization and intelligence [3].
Some new textiles after special finishing can also provide various excellent functions. The waterproof,
moisture-permeable and water- and oil-repellent finishing of polyester fabric is one of them [4].

1 Waterproof and moisture-permeable finishing

The waterproof and moisture-permeable properties can be consistent from the fabric structure and
processing methods. The diameter of water vapor molecules is generally 4×10-4μm, and the diameter of
raindrops is usually 10-2μm[5]. As long as the diameter of the pores in the fabric is controlled within the
range where water vapor molecules can pass but water droplets cannot pass, it can be waterproof. The
role of wet. In the system formed by the human body, clothes, and the environment, there is the
transfer of moisture and heat. There are two ways to transfer moisture: sweating (liquid phase transfer)
and non-inductive evaporative excretion (gas phase transfer). The human body varies with the
environment, activity state and clothes. The artificial climate around the human skin has a relative
humidity of 50% and a comfortable temperature of 32 °C.

The new synthetic fiber fabrics have in common are better softness, better drape and beautiful luster,
and at least have a special type of hand feeling (such as peach skin, dry touch, worsted touch, artificial
silk Feeling), and occasionally processed to have some special beauty and some special functions (such
as deep coloring, color mixing effect, silk fabric sound, surface raising, etc.). The third is the basic
structure design. The fourth is basic manufacturing design. Table 1 lists the basic structural design
elements that are determined to achieve the specified aesthetic or functional effects. (To be continued)
Reference text

The moisture permeability of the fabric is closely related to the type of fiber, the structure of the fabric
and the finishing of the fabric. When the temperature on the inside of the garment is higher than the
outside, there is a pressure gradient on both sides of the fabric. Under its action, water vapor molecules
can pass through the fine channels of the fabric to exchange heat and moisture with the outside [6].
There are three main types of polyester waterproof and breathable fabrics as follows

1.1 The high-density fabric

compact waterproof fabric with water-repellent finishing is used to change the fabric structure to
achieve the purpose of waterproof and moisture-permeable. This kind of fabric is the first waterproof
and moisture-permeable fabric developed successfully [7]. The basis is: simple diffusion of water vapor
between yarn gaps; capillary transmission between fiber bundles; diffusion between single fibers. Most
of the current compact waterproof fabrics use ultra-fine polyester fibers as raw materials[8]. In this type
of fabric, the fibers and yarns are closely arranged to make the fabric resistant to water pressure
without water repellent finishing. Up to 104 ～ 105Pa. At the same time, capillary tubes are formed
between the fiber yarns. Due to the capillary effect, water vapor can be well transmitted. The
advantages of compact fabrics are that the preparation process is simple, mainly due to the changes in
yarn and silk deniers, and the finished clothes have good drape and good moisture permeability.
However, this type of fabric has low water pressure resistance, which greatly limits its application range.

1.2 Laminated fabric

Laminated fabric, also known as pasted membrane type waterproof and moisture-permeable fabric, is
to paste functional membrane onto the fabric. According to the functional membranes used, it can be
divided into three categories: microporous membranes, dense hydrophilic membranes, and
microporous hydrophilic combined membranes. The adhesive also plays an important role here. There
are two main types of adhesives: moisture-permeable type, which can be coated continuously; and
moisture-impermeable type, which can only be bonded by dots, and will not damage moisture
permeability. The most successful and well-known of this type of fabric is Gore-Tex fabric from W.L.
Gore Company in the United States [3], which is a composite of polytetrafluoroethylene microporous
membrane and fabric. Because the preparation of the microporous membrane requires special
equipment and technology, the product processing is difficult, the cost is high, the price of the garment
is expensive, and its softness and drape are not satisfactory

1.3 Coated fabric

Coating method means that the fabric is directly or indirectly coated to make the fabric waterproof. The
air permeability is obtained by creating a microporous structure or making it hydrophilic [7]. It can be
divided into three types: microporous coating method, hydrophilic coating method, and microporous
hydrophilic bonding method. The cost of the production process of the coated fabric is low, and the
hydrophilic coating uses water as the solvent, which has low cost and less pollution. The hydrophilic
coating can be carried out according to the traditional process. However, the coating method is mainly
based on organic solvent systems, and the cost of solvent recovery equipment is relatively high, and it is
easy to cause environmental pollution. After the fabric coating treatment, the drape and softness
become poor, the waterproof durability is poor, and the adhesion fastness is poor.

2 Water-repellent and oil-repellent finishing of polyester fabrics and their development

The purpose of water-repellent finishing is to prevent water from wetting the fabric, and use the
additional pressure of the fabric capillary to prevent the penetration of liquid water, but still maintain
the breathability of the fabric Wet performance. Water-repellent finishing fabrics were first used in the
production of military uniforms and protective clothing, and are now widely used in the production of
sportswear, travel bags, travel wear, tents, etc. The demand for such fabrics in the domestic and
international markets is increasing year by year. According to the analysis of the wetting theory [9], the
surface energy of water is relatively high, 72.6 mJm2, and the surface energy of the water-repellent
material must be smaller than this value. The surface energy of oils is generally 20-40 mJm2, and the
surface energy of oil-repellent materials must be smaller than this value. The wetting ability of oil is
much greater than that of water, so oil-repellent substances must repel water. The surface energy of
ordinary polyester fabric is much greater than that of water and oil. Therefore, in order to make
polyester fabric water and oil repellent, a layer of low surface energy material must be coated on its
surface. The surface energy of silicone rubber is about 25 mJm2, which is an ideal water-repellent
material, and the surface energy of fluororesin is about 5 mJm2, which is an ideal oil-repellent material.

2.1 The application of water and oil repellent finishing agents in the water and oil repellent finishing of
polyester fabrics can be seen from the mechanism of water and oil repellent finishing. A layer of
substance is adsorbed on the surface of the polyester fabric to change the original high-energy surface
into a low-energy surface. A fabric with water repellent effect can be obtained, and the smaller the
surface energy, the better the effect.

The main water repellents produced and used at home and abroad are as follows: 1) paraffin-aluminum
soap; 2) quaternary pyridine ammonium salts; 3) methylol melamine derivatives; 4) chromium stearate
complex; 5) Silicone type; 6) Fluoroalkyl resins [10]. The first five types of water repellents have common
weaknesses: no oil repellency, no stain resistance, and poor washability. In recent years, the application
of fluorine-containing compounds in fabric water-repellent, oil-repellent, and antifouling finishing is
under development. In the water-repellent processing of textiles, the practical use of fluoroalkyl
compounds was in the 1950s. The first attempt by DuPont in the United States to perform water- and
oil-repellent finishing of fluoropolymer fabrics was the first to publish the use of tetrafluoroethylene
emulsion as fabric. Patent for water and oil repellent finishing agent. Later, the 3M company in the
United States developed a fabric finishing agent with a perfluorocarboxylic chromium complex as the
main component, but it was quickly replaced by a polymer formed from a better performance fluorine-
containing acrylate, and used for fabric water repellency Oil-repellent finishing, the product launched is
Scotchgard, then DuPont's Teflon, Asdhigard of Asahi Glass, Unidyne of Daikin Industry Co., Ltd. and so
on have come out [11]. These contain Fluorine water repellent has water and oil repellency, and does
not damage the original style of the fiber, so it has been rapidly popularized and become the
mainstream of today's water repellent [12]. There are many reports on the use of organic fluorine resin
in the water and oil repellent finishing of nylon, polyester, polyester cotton, cotton and other fabrics.
There are also some reports on domestic research on water repellency. 2.2 Application of the lotus leaf
effect in the water and oil repellent finishing of polyester fabrics For nearly 30 years, German scientists
have observed the microstructure of the leaf surface of 20,000 plants such as lotus leaves through
scanning electron microscopes and atomic force microscopes, revealing the water repellency of lotus
leaves The principle of self-cleaning, and applied for a patent. According to the principle of the lotus-
effect, German scientists have successfully developed water-repellent and self-cleaning building surface
coatings, and they have been on the market since 1999. Roof tiles with the same performance were also
put on the market at the end of 2000, and clothing with lotus leaf effect is also under development [13].
Because the lotus leaf effect has broad application prospects and high commercial value, the key
technologies and principles have been patented and kept strictly confidential. The secret of the lotus
leaf effect lies mainly in its microstructure and nanostructure, not its chemical composition. Holloway
analyzed the surface chemical composition of lotus leaves and other plants in 1994. All plants have an
epidermis on the surface, which separates the plants from the surrounding environment. The main
components of the epidermis of all plants are soluble oils embedded in the polyester matrix. Therefore,
the epidermis of plants has a certain degree of water repellency. After analyzing the surface of 20,000
kinds of plants, it is found that plants with smooth surfaces have no water-repellent and self-cleaning
function, while plants with rough surfaces have a certain water-repellent effect. Among all the plants,
the lotus leaf has the strongest water repellent and self-cleaning effect, and the contact angle of water
on its surface reaches 160.4°. In addition to lotus leaves, taro leaves and rutabaga leaves have a strong
water-repellent and self-cleaning effect, and the contact angles of water on them are up to 160.3° and
159.7° [3]. The contact angle of water on the surface of various commonly used fibers is shown in Table
1 [14].

Table 1 The contact angle of various fibers with water

See chinese pdf

It can be seen from Table 1 that different testers have different data. But in general, no fiber makes the
contact angle of water on its surface greater than 90°. Therefore, the commonly used textile fibers do
not have water repellency. Of course, it does not have the ability to repel oil. By studying the principle of
water-repellent and self-cleaning of the lotus leaf effect, it can be known that fabrics with high water-
repellent and self-cleaning must meet the following conditions:

1) First, the fiber surface should have basic water-repellent properties (that is, the contact angle of
water on its surface is greater than 90 °). It can be achieved through nanotechnology, plasma treatment
technology and coating padding technology. For example, using organic peroxides to decompose at high
temperatures to form free radicals, to initiate low free energy silicon-containing or fluorine-containing
organic monomers, and graft modification on the surface of polyester fabrics [15].

2) Give the fabric a rough surface. Although the surface of the fabric itself is very rough, this rough
structure is based on fiber as the smallest unit, which is far greater than the requirement of
nanostructure. The surface roughness of the water-repellent self-cleaning fabric should be the
roughness of the fiber surface, and the roughness should reach the nanometer level [14]. Therefore,
using the principle of bionics and applying the principle of the lotus leaf effect to the water and oil
repellent finishing of polyester fabrics, it will be possible to develop a super waterproof and breathable
textile.
3 Development prospects

The lotus leaf effect can theoretically break through the conventional development ideas of water-
repellent materials, and combine the reduction of the surface energy of the material with the roughness
of the microstructure, so that the water and oil repellency of the fabric is improved, and the fabric has
Good breathability. American scientist H.C.Von Baeyer[16] believes that the application of lotus leaf
effect in fabric water and oil repellent finishing has broad application prospects. Super water-repellent
and breathable fabric, first available in Gaoke In the technical field, for example, clothing used in
modern military and warfare, in addition to sheltering the wind and rain, can keep soldiers dry and
comfortable in harsh humid environments, and can prevent the intrusion of toxic liquids. As certain
blood-borne diseases are rampant around the world, it can be used as a medical (blood) barrier fabric to
protect medical staff from blood-borne pathogens. It can be used as biological protective clothing, and
can also be used to make civilian raincoats and sports clothing. Therefore, polyester as the largest
variety of chemical fibers and its excellent properties, using the lotus leaf effect to perform differential
treatment of water and oil repellency, will be able to develop a super water-repellent and breathable
polyester textile. Land is used in industry, agriculture, military, civil and other aspects.

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