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Correspondence to:
Ismail Hossain email: ismailpab@yahoo.com
ABSTRACT
The aim of this study was to model the color strength of Viscose and others natural cellulose fibers such as
viscose/lycra (95:5) blended knitted fabrics using a cotton or linen have various similar properties.
fuzzy logic approach where color strength is a function Viscose however is the most absorbent and highly
of dye concentration, salt concentration, and alkali reactive among all cellulose fibers. Attractive, deep
concentration. Dye concentration, salt concentration, and flourishing shades can be dyed on viscose fiber
and alkali concentration are the most important factors fabric due to its high absorbency. Blended fabrics are
affecting color strength of viscose/lycra blended knitted manufactured with a combination of fibers arranged
fabrics. Moreover, these factors behave nonlinearly and differently to enhance performance and add specific
interact: hence, it is very difficult to develop an exact characteristics to the fabrics. Blending makes it
functional relationship between the input variables and possible to build in a combination of potential
color strength using mathematical models, statistical properties. In blends of viscose fibers with synthetic
models, or empirical models. Conversely, artificial fibers like Lycra, the synthetic component provides
neural network models are trained using large amounts crease recovery, dimensional stability, tensile
of experimental data which is a time consuming strength, abrasion resistance and easy care properties,
process. One possible approach to deal with such a while the viscose cellulose fibers contribute moisture
complex process is by using a fuzzy logic expert absorption, antistatic characteristics, and reduced
system (FLES), which perform remarkably well in non- pilling. Reactive dyes are the most suitable for dyeing
linear and complex systems with minimum viscose fabrics due to their excellent fastness
experimental data. In this study a laboratory scale properties [1, 2].
experiment was conducted to validate the developed
fuzzy model. The model was assessed by analyzing Customers demand high quality fashionable products
various numerical error criteria. The mean relative with minimum price and quick delivery service in
error was found to be 3.80%, the correlation coefficient today’s textile and apparel market. However, the
was 0.992, and goodness of fit was 0.986 from the traditional dyeing process consists of trial and error
actual and predicted color strengths of the fabrics. The which is time consuming and less efficient and
results show that the model developed performed well. produces fabrics of inferior quality. Moreover, the
automatic control of the dyeing process has been
Keywords: FLES, Color strength, Viscose/lycra slow to develop due to the complicated nature of the
blend, Fabrics, Dyeing, Modeling dyeing process. Dyeing is the most difficult process
in textile manufacturing. It involves the sciences of
INTRODUCTION chemistry, physics, mechanics, and others [3]. The
Color strength modeling for viscose/lycra blended dyeing process is also affected by many inside and
fabrics is an interesting area of research in the outside parameters such as dye concentration,
modern textile dyeing industry, due to the increasing temperature, time, alkali concentration (pH value),
demand for high quality and fashionable products. salt concentration, and bath ratio (material liquor
The quality of fabrics is considered an especially big ratio), all of which affect the quality of the final
concern in many parts of the world. Viscose is the product. In the case of viscose/lycra blended fabrics,
first and oldest regenerated man-made cellulose fiber. when dyeing with reactive dyes in exhaust dyeing the
It is manufactured by a melt spinning process. primary and most important factors affecting color
i; 1 ≤ i1 ≤ 5
DC (i1 ) = 1 (2)
0; otherwise
i ; 15 ≤ i2 ≤ 35
SC (i2 ) = 2 (3)
0; otherwise
∑ y i − y i
i =1
concentration, salt concentration and alkali
concentration on color strength.
η = 1− n
(12)
∑ (y
i =1
i − y)
2