You are on page 1of 4

Multifunctional ingredient

for improved performance


in a variety of skin
care products

Enhanced film-forming Luxurious Low pH compatibility and


and pigment compatibility aesthetics electrolyte-resistant stabilization

DESCRIPTION
NEW Avalure™ Flex-6 polymer delivers the low pH compatibility • Thickening efficiency resistant to electrolytes and pH
and electrolyte-resistant O/W and W/O emulsion stabilization independent from pH 3 to 10
required for formulating today’s high performance beautifying • Delivers a soft, powdery afterfeel
products. Its enhanced film forming properties and pigment • Efficient film formation with water resistance
dispersion capabilities provide rub-off resistant coverage that • Enables formulation of smooth cream as well as bouncy texture
goes on evenly with a soft, powdery feel. with memory shape

APPEARANCE KEY CUSTOMERS AND CONSUMER BENEFITS


Water-dispersible powder • Enables sustainable cold process and simplified formulations
• Development of innovative O/W and W/O formulations not
INCI possible before
Polyurethane-62 (and) Trideceth-6 • Potential savings in material and operational costs
• Better protection for consumers in sun care
PRODUCT FEATURES • Better performance for pigmented emulsions
• Provides multifunctional performance properties including • Improves skin barrier function with TEWL (transepidermal water
emulsion stabilization, pigment dispersion, film formation and loss) reduction and moisturizing effect
rheology modification • Enhances product sensory
• HLB independent emulsification (including silicone oils)
• Enables high aqueous content W/O Pickering emulsion in APPLICATIONS
application with solid particles such as metal oxides, mica Avalure Flex-6 film forming polymer enables you to create a
and silica wide range of sun care solutions, active dermal creams, and color
• Compatibility with metal oxides such as TiO2, ZnO, FeO cosmetics with luxurious aesthetics.
Viscosity (mPa.s) @
8000
12000
12000
6000

Thickening Efficiency

20rpm
.s)@@20rpm
10000
10000
4000 12000
12000 8000
8000

20rpm
2000

(mPa.s)
10000

.s).s)@@20rpm
IMPROVED THICKENING WITH ELECTROLYTE AND pH TOLERANCE 10000

Viscosity(mPa
6000
6000
0
Avalure Flex-6 polymer exhibits consistent thickening up to3 4 wt% NaCl 4 and over
8000
5 a wide
6 pH range 7

Viscosity
8000
pH 4000
4000
(3-10). The improved thickening tolerance of the polymer could lead to formulation simplification for

(mPa
Avalure Flex-6 Polymer (1.5 6000

Viscosity(mPa
wt%) Xanthan Gum (2.25 wt%) ™

dermal active creams, anti-acne treatments and DHA lotions. 6000 2000
2000
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ Polyacrylamide & C13-14

Viscosity
4000 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7
VP Copolymer (0.40 wt%) 4000 0
(0.75 wt%) 0
FIGURE 1: Thickening performance in water dispersions 3
3 4
4 5
5
2000 pH
12000 2000 pH
20000 *Polymers Tested:
0 Avalure™ Flex-6 Polymer (1.5 wt%) X
Avalure Flex-6 Polymer (1.5 wt%) X
Viscosity (mPa.s) @ 20rpm

03 Avalure™ Flex-6
10000

Viscosity (mPa.s) @ 20rpm


4 5 6 7
15000
3 4 5
pH 6 7
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ Copolymer P
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ P
8000 pH (0.40
VP wt%)
Copolymer (0.40 wt%) I
I
VP Copolymer (0.40 wt%) (
Avalure™ Flex-6 Polymer (1.5 wt%) Xanthan Gum (2.25 wt%) (
Avalure™ Flex-6 Polymer (1.5 wt%) Xanthan Gum
Xanthan Gum (2.25
(2.25wt%)
wt%)
6000 10000
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ Polyacrylamide &
Polyacrylamide and C13-14 Isoparaffin
C13-14
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ Polyacrylamide
20000and Laureth-7
Isoparaffin & C13-14
(0.75 wt%)
& Laureth-7
VP Copolymer (0.40 wt%) 20000
4000 VP Copolymer (0.40 wt%) Isoparaffin & Laureth-7
(0.75 wt%)
5000 (0.75 wt%)

20rpm
.s)@@20rpm
2000 15000
15000
20000
0 20000
0

20rpm
0 1 2 3 4

(mPa.s)
3 4 5 6 7 10000

.s).s)@@20rpm
10000

Viscosity(mPa
pH 15000 NaCl
Weight%
15000
Avalure™ Flex-6 Polymer (1.5 wt%) Xanthan Gum (2.25 wt%)

Viscosity
5000
5000
10000

(mPa
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ Polyacrylamide & C13-14
10000

Viscosity(mPa
VP Copolymer (0.40 wt%) Isoparaffin & Laureth-7

Emulsification (0.75 wt%)


0
0

Viscosity
5000
5000 0 1 2
20000 0 1 2
Weight%
Weight% NaCl
NaCl
Viscosity (mPa.s) @ 20rpm

EMULSIFICATION
15000
CAPABILITY 0
0
0 1 2 3 4
Avalure Flex-6 polymer provides consistent emulsifying performance regardless 0 of the1 HLB of 2 3 4
Weight% NaCl
the internal
10000 phase. Emulsions made with Avalure Flex-6 polymer show highly uniform droplet Weight%
size NaCl
distribution for mineral oil, dimethicone and sunflower oil. Slight variations may be seen in viscosity
due to differences in oil density.
5000

FIGURE 2: Tests results show Avalure Flex-6 polymer to provide good emulsification and compatibility with different oils
0
at various HLB.
0 1 2 3 4
Weight% NaCl Mineral Oil Dimethicone Sunflower Oil
Required HLB 10 Required HLB 5 Required HLB 7

1.50 wt% Avalure


Flex-6 Polymer
20 wt% Oil Avalure Flex-6
200X 200X 200X polymer provides
No additional 20s-1 = 8,920 mPa.s 20s-1 = 5,380 mPa.s 20s-1 = 8,680 mPa.s uniform distribution
emulsifiers
of a variety of oils
for highly efficient
1.0 wt% Avalure emulsification.
Flex-6 Polymer
50 wt% Oil
200X 200X 200X

20s-1 = Viscosity at 20 s-1 20s-1 = 21,200 mPa.s 20s-1 = 15,120 mPa.s 20s-1 = 19,200 mPa.s

EMULSIFICATION IN PIGMENTED APPLICATIONS


In pigmented applications with a large portion of anhydrous phase, and in certain conditions
(hydrophobic pigment coating and high pigment concentration), Avalure Flex-6 polymer promotes
W/O Pickering emulsion; which allows the incorporation of water and aqueous-soluble active
ingredients in systems such as lipstick, foundations or concealers, and sun care sticks.

FIGURE 3: Microscopy pictures show Avalure Flex-6 polymer enables the stabilization a lipstick system with > 15% water.

Scanning Electronic Microscopy (SEM)


Oil
Phase The water
A water soluble Laser with Confocal droplets are easily
fluorescent tracer Microscopy identifiable in the
was added to better CC-L0024(EU) middle of waxes
differentiate the Water matrix and appear
water phase from Phase homogeneously
the oil phase dispersed

CC-L0024(EU) Placebo; No water phase


Pigment Compatibility and Dispersion
COMPATIBILITY WITH TITANIUM OXIDE
Unlike the benchmark polymers, test results show Avalure Flex-6 polymer to be compatible with
20 wt% uncoated TiO2, enabling the formulation of oil-in-water pigmented emulsions. It creates
a smooth cream with homogeneous pigment dispersion during spreading, leading to potential
benefits in daily skin care and color cosmetic products.

FIGURE 4: Performance of Avalure Flex-6 polymer vs. benchmark polymers*: dispersing 20 wt% uncoated titanium
*Polymers Tested:
Avalure™ Polymer A Polymer B Polymer C Polymer D
Flex-6 Polymer Avalure Flex-6 Polymer
Polymer A: Polyacrylamide & C13-14
Cream / Off-White Compact / Off-White Fluid / Off-White Fluid / Off-White Fluid / Off-White
Isoparaffin & Laureth-7
O/W Emulsion W/O Emulsion W/O Emulsion W/O Emulsion W/O Emulsion
Polymer B: Ammonium
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Polymer C: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Polymer D: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate
(and) Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate
Copolymer

6,260 mPa.s @ 20rpm 119,000 mPa.s @ 20rpm 10,300 mPa.s @ 20rpm 5,120 mPa.s @ 20rpm 712 mPa.s @ 20rpm

400X 400X 400X 400X 400X

COMPATIBILITY WITH ZINC OXIDE FIGURE 5: Delicate Baby Diaper


Rash Cream micrograph (25°C, 24 h)
The unique performance of Avalure Flex-6 polymer with uncoated zinc oxide also fills the
technology gap for Australian Sunscreens and Diaper Rash Creams.

FORMULATION Delicate Baby Diaper Control


Rash Cream O-0070
INCI Name, Tradename Wt% Wt%
Water q.s. 100% q.s. 100%
Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1
Polyurethane-62 (and) Trideceth-6, Avalure™ Flex-6 Polymer 0.6 –
Coconut Oil 20.0 20.0 Delicate Baby Diaper Rash Cream
with 0.6 wt% Avalure Flex-6 Polymer
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20, Promulgen™ D Nonionic Emulsifier 1.0 1.0
Tocopherol Acetate 0.3 0.3
Zinc Oxide 25.0 25.0
Brookfield Viscosity mPa∙s, @ 20rpm 50,000 – 80,000 15,000 – 20,000
pH 7.5 – 8.5 7.5 – 8.5

IMPROVED PIGMENT DISPERSION


Avalure Flex-6 polymer’s improved pigment dispersion can lead to a more uniform distribution Delicate Baby Diaper Rash Cream
with No Polymer
of pigments for better coverage. Drawdown comparisons of a cosmetic foundation show the
product formulated with Avalure Flex-6 polymer to exhibit better hiding power over the black and
white drawdown paper than the benchmark foundation. The improvement in color intensity at the
same pigment level may contribute to material cost savings. Conversely, the pigment dispersion
properties of Avalure Flex-6 polymer also make it effective in the formulation of make-up removing
applications in which it helps to efficiently remove pigments from the skin.

FIGURE 5: Drawdown comparison of cosmetic foundation formulated with and without Avalure Flex-6 polymer

Foundation
containing 1%
BYK Gardner Benchmark Comparison Avalure Flex-6
Spectro-guide BYK Gardner,
geometry 45°/0°, Observer D65/10 polymer exhibits
∆E* = 2.83 (Total color difference) significant coverage
improvement
and opacity.

Foundation with Benchmark


Avalure Flex-6 Polymer Foundation
Film Formation
SUPERIOR FILM FORMATION PROPERTIES
• Avalure Flex-6 polymer creates flexible films on the skin, offering benefits for skin
tightening formulations.
• Polymer film shows low gloss with matte appearance on skin.
• Lubrizol sensory evaluation has shown Avalure Flex-6 polymer film to feel “powdery”,
“lubricious” and “soft”.

FILM FORMATION ADDS SKIN BARRIER PROTECTIONS


In a moisturizing and barrier protection study, 10 Caucasian female volunteers applied a
mucilage with 1% Avalure Flex-6 polymer and a placebo on different areas of the volar
forearm. The readings of the treated areas were measured against untreated baseline after
30 minutes, 2 hours, and 24 hours.

FIGURE 6: Moisturizing effect and barrier protection study of variations of TEWL compared to baseline conditions

8%
% Difference in TEWL from Baseline

Placebo Without Film Former


6% 1% Avalure Flex-6 Polymer
4%
A significant improvement
2%
0%
Reduced
Water
of skin barrier function
-2%
Loss
was measured with 1%
-4% Avalure Flex-6 polymer
-6% formulation compared
-8%
30 mins 2 hours 24 hours
to the placebo.
8%
% Difference in TEWL from Baseline

Placebo Without Film Former


6% 1% Avalure™ Flex-6 Polymer
4%

SUPERIOR
2% SENSORY Reduced
Water
0%
Avalure Flex-6 polymer offers very good sensory properties.
Loss During a Lubrizol sensory
comparison in polymer mucilage, the afterfeel of formulations containing Avalure Flex-6
-2%

polymer
-4% was preferred and described as powdery, lubricious, soft and “silicone-like”.
When
-6% combined with a co-thickener, Avalure Flex-6 polymer enables increased yield

value
-8% and suspension properties, and also allows formulators to tailor the sensory profile
30 mins 2 hours 24 hours
of emulsions. Adding low levels of Avalure Flex-6 polymer to an emulsion improves the
softness in the afterfeel.

FIGURE 7: Sensory profile of Avalure Flex-6 polymer dispersed in water

Richness
10 1.5 wt% Avalure Flex-6 Polymer
9
0.05 wt% Carbopol® Ultrez 10 Polymer,
8
1.0 wt% Avalure Flex-6 Polymer
7
6 0.2 wt% Carbopol® Ultrez 10 Polymer
5
4
1.0 wt% Xanthan Gum Sensory evaluations
Absence
of Piling 3 Absorbency show of Avalure Flex-6
2
1 polymer to exhibit
0 consumer-preferred
feel on skin.

Softness
Absence of
Oiliness Afterfeel

The information contained herein is being furnished for informational purposes only, upon the express condition that the User makes its own assessment of the appropriate use of such
information. While the information contained herein is believed to be reliable, no representations, guarantees or warranties of any kind are made as to its accuracy, suitability for a particular
application or the results to be obtained herefrom. Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. (“Lubrizol”) cannot guarantee how any products associated with this information will perform in
combination with other substances or in User’s process. Due to the variations in methods, conditions and equipment used commercially in processing these materials, no warranties or
guarantees are made as to the suitability of the information/products for the applications disclosed. Lubrizol shall not be liable and the User assumes all risk and responsibility for, any use
or handling of any material beyond Lubrizol’s direct control. LUBRIZOL MAKES NO WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES
OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. It is the User’s sole responsibility to determine if there are any issues relating to patent infringement of any component or
combination of components relating to the supplied information. Nothing contained herein is to be considered as permission, recommendation, nor as an inducement to practice any patented
invention without the permission of the patent owner. All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates.

TDS-971
© 2017 The Lubrizol Corporation.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. 9911 Brecksville Road Cleveland, OH 44141-3247 Tel 800.379.5389 www.lubrizol.com/personal-care All Rights Reserved.

You might also like