MEASUREMENTS CHOOSING A SIZE

CHOOSE YOUR SIZE BASED ON MEASUREMENTS, NOT AGE. AGE IS ONLY APPROXIMATE. IF YOU CAN’T
MEASURE THE CHILD, LOOK AT THE CHEST AND THE TOTAL HEIGHT OF THE GARMENT (CENTRE LENGTHS
I.E. FROM NECKLINE TO CROTCH / HEM). ALSO CONSIDER GROWTH OF THE CHILD.

NO. TO BE MEASURED ON PATTERN - NOT INCLUDING SEAM

CHEST CI RCUMFERENCE
1
CENTER FRONT LENGTH
2
CENTER BACK LENGTH
3

4 FRONT LENGTH FROM SNP

5 BACK L ENGTH F ROM SNP

SI DE SEAM
6
STRAP WI DTH
7
NECK CI RCUMFERENCE
8
ARMHOLE
9
L EG OPENI NG
10
I NSEAM
11
POCKET DI S TANCE F ROM NECKLI NE
12
POCKET WI DTH
13

 MEASUREMENTS CM

Newborn 0-3M 3-6M 6-9M 9-12M 12-18M 18-24M 2-3T 3-4T 4-5T 5-6T

1 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78

2 34,6 35,9 37,2 38,5 39,8 41 42,3 45,1 47,9 50,7 53,5

3 37,5 38,8 40,1 41,4 42,7 44 45,3 48,1 50,9 53,7 56,5

4 44,5 48 51,5 55 58,5 62 65,5 70 74,5 79,4 84,3

5 46,5 50 53,5 57 60,5 64 67,5 72 76,5 81,4 86,3

6 30 33 36 39 42 45 48 52 56 60 64

7 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4

8 28,3 29,44 30,58 31,72 32,86 34 35,14 36,28 37,42 40,22 43,02

9 27,8 29,2 30,6 32 33,4 34,8 36,2 37,6 39 41,26 43,52

10 17,5 18,5 19,5 20,5 21,5 22,5 23,5 24,5 25,5 26,5 27,5

11 10,5 12,4 14,3 16,2 18,1 20 21,9 23,4 24,9 26,4 27,9

12 9 9,3 9,6 9,9 10,2 10,5 10,8 11,1 11,4 11,7 12

13 18 18 18 18 19 19 19 20 20 20 20
 MEASUREMENTS INCH

Newborn 0-3M 3-6M 6-9M 9-12M 12-18M 18-24M 2-3T 3-4T 4-5T 5-6T

1 22,8 23,6 24,4 25,2 25,9 26,7 27,5 28,3 29,1 29,9 30,7

2 13,6 14,1 14,6 15,1 15,6 16,1 16,6 17,7 18,8 19,9 21,0

3 14,7 15,2 15,8 16,3 16,8 17,3 17,8 18,9 20,0 21,1 22,2

4 17,5 18,9 20,2 21,6 23,0 24,4 25,7 27,5 29,3 31,2 33,1

5 18,3 19,7 21,0 22,4 23,8 25,2 26,5 28,3 30,1 32,0 33,9

6 11,8 13,0 14,1 15,3 16,5 17,7 18,9 20,4 22,0 23,6 25,2

7 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6

8 11,1 11,6 12,0 12,5 12,9 13,4 13,8 14,3 14,7 15,8 16,9

9 10,9 11,5 12,0 12,6 13,1 13,7 14,2 14,8 15,3 16,2 17,1

10 6,9 7,3 7,7 8,1 8,4 8,8 9,2 9,6 10,0 10,4 10,8

11 4,1 4,9 5,6 6,4 7,1 7,9 8,6 9,2 9,8 10,4 11,0

12 3,5 3,7 3,8 3,9 4,0 4,1 4,2 4,4 4,5 4,6 4,7

13 7,1 7,1 7,1 7,1 7,5 7,5 7,5 7,9 7,9 7,9 7,9
 SUPPLIES
FABRIC / CONSUMPTION
SIZE RANGE
NB-12M 18M-6T
PINAFORE JUMPSUIT 110 cm 140 cm

L INEN , DOUBLE GAUZE , OR L IGHT WOVEN OR KNIT FABRIC .

INTERFACING
F USIBLE INTERFACING . F OR IMPROVED EXPERIENCE AND RESULTS IRONING
INTERFACING TO THE WRONG SIDE OF PLACKET PIECE WILL ADD INTEGRITY .
IT CAN HELP PREVENT FRAYING AROUND BUTTON HOLE / STUD AND KEEP IT
FROM BEING STRETCHED AND PULLED DURING SEWING AND USE .

THREAD
C OTTON OR POLYESTER ( POLYESTER BEST OPTION PARTICULARLY FOR
STRETCH FABRIC )

NEEDLE
U NIVERSAL ( BALLPOINT FOR STRETCHY FABRICS )

NOTIONS
B UTTONS / STUDS / E LASTIC ( ON SOME DESIGNS )

GENERAL ITEMS
G OOD S CISSORS
P INS
I RON
M EASURING TAPE
S ERGER /O VERLOCKER
 SEWING TERMS
RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER / RST
M EANING , THE RIGHT SIDES OF THE FABRIC WILL BE LAYING TOGETHER . T HIS IS
THE WAY MOST SEAMS ARE SEWN SO THE SEAM IS ONLY VISIBLE ON 
 THE WRONG
SIDE ( INSIDE ) OF THE FABRIC .

WRONG SIDES TOGETHER / WST

M EANS , " WRONG SIDES TOGETHER "

BINDING
I T IS A WAY OF FINISHING A SEAM , NECKLINE , ARMHOLE OR HEM OF A GARMENT
BY STITCHING ON THE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE RESULTING IN AN EDGING OR TRIM . MY
PATTERNS COME WITH BINDING PATTERN PIECES . M AKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE
INSTRUCTIONS , WHICH INDICATE THE GRAIN DIRECTION .

BACKSTITCH
A LWAYS REMEMBER TO BACKSTITCH AT THE BEGINNING AND THE END OF SEAMS
BY REVERSING FOR A FEW STITCHES TO PREVENT SEAM COMING UNDONE .

EDGE STITCH
E DGE STITCHING IS A FINISHING STITCH THAT IS SEWN ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE
FABRIC VERY CLOSE TO THE SEAM / EDGE . I T IS A DECORATIVE STITCH .

TOPSTITCH
T HIS IS WHERE YOU MAKE A ROW OF CONTINUOUS STITCHES ON THE TOP OR
RIGHT SIDE OF A GARMENT 
( TOPSTITCHING IS WIDER THEN EDGE STITCHING ).

UNDERSTITCHING (INVISIBLE STITCH)

T HIS IS THE SECRET TO A PROFESSIONAL FINISH AND I DO THIS AROUND THE
ARMHOLE AND NECKLINE . T HIS TECHNIQUE KEEPS THE FACING / BINDING IN PLACE
AND PREVENTS IT FROM ROLLING OUTSIDE OF THE GARMENT ; YOU WILL ALSO GET
A CRISP EDGE WHEN PRESSING . I T ALSO MAKES THE BINDING PROCESS EASIER .

STAY STITCHING
A ROW OF MACHINE STITCHING APPLIED JUST INSIDE THE SEAM ALLOWANCE SOON
AFTER CUTTING OUT . I T PREVENTS STRETCHING AROUND NECKLINES , ARMHOLES
OR ANY AREA PRONE TO STRETCHING DURING THE SEWING OF YOUR GARMENT
CASING
Y OU WILL CREATE A CASING / FABRIC TUNNEL THROUGH WHICH ELASTIC OR A
DRAWSTRING CAN BE THREADED TO PULL IN OR DRAW UP THE FABRIC .

HEM
T HE EDGE OF A PIECE OF CLOTH OR CLOTHING THAT HAS BEEN TURNED UNDER
AND SEWN .

INSEAM
T HE SEAM IN A PAIR OF PANTS FROM THE CROTCH TO THE BOTTOM OF THE LEG .

SEAM
W HERE TWO PIECES OF FABRIC ARE SEWN TOGETHER , FORMING A LINE .


FABRIC TERMS
SELVADGE EDGE
• R UNS TOP AND BOTTOM OF
WEFT
THE ROLL

• W OVEN , NON - FRAYABLE EDGE

CUT EDGE CREATED BY THE
MANUFACTURER .

GRAINLINE
• T HE GRAINLINE RUNS PARALLEL TO
THE SELVEDGE EDGE
• I T AFFECTS THE WAY YOUR FABRIC
S
BIA
WARP

STRETCHES
45

• S TRETCH SHOULD GO AROUND THE

AT

S
EE
NS

BODY ( HORIZONTAL ) SO THE

GR
RU
DE

GRAINLINE IS NORMALLY VERTICAL

• I T IS THE DIRECTION THAT THE
THREADS ARE STRONGEST , AND IT
HAS THE LEAST AMOUNT OF
STRETCH .
• I TS VERY IMPORTANT TO GET
CORRECT .
BIAS
STRETCH DIRECTION • T HE BIAS OF A PIECE OF WOVEN
FABRIC IS AT 45 DEGREES TO ITS
WARP AND WEFT THREADS . W HEN
CUT ON THE BIAS , WOVEN FABRIC
IS MORE ELASTIC AS WELL AS
MORE FLUID IN MOVEMENT ,
COMPARED TO THE ON - GRAIN
DIRECTION .
LAYING OUT YOUR PAPER
PATTERN

 CUTTING YOUR FABRIC
CENTREFOLD “ FOLDED FABRIC / MIRROR ”

F OLD FABRIC UPON ITSELF AND ALIGN THE SIDE OF THE PATTERN PIECE THAT SAYS “ FOLDED
FABRIC / MIRROR ” TO THE FOLDED EDGE . C UT OUT THE PATTERN PIECE THROUGH BOTH
LAYERS OF FABRIC AND OPEN TO GET A FULL PIECE .

GRAINLINE
A RRANGE ALL YOUR PATTERN PIECES SO THE GRAINLINE “ARROWS “( THE DIRECTION
WITH THE LEAST STRETCH , PARALLEL TO SELVAGE ) IS RUNNING VERTICAL THROUGH THE
GARMENT .

NOTCH
I S INDICATED BY A SMALL LINE IN THE PATTERN , WHICH NEEDS TO BE MARKED OR CLIPPED
(2 MM ). T HESE NOTCHES ARE USED LATER DURING SEWING TO MATCH PIECES TO THE
CORRECT PLACEMENT ; SUCH AS MIDDLE OF PANTS .

X2
W HERE IS SAYS “X2” YOU NEED TO CUT 2 SEPARATE PIECES , GIVING YOU A TOTAL OF TWO
PIECES . YOU CAN FOLD THE FABRIC ON ITSELF AND CUT THROUGH BOTH LAYERS , THEREBY
CUTTING BOTH PIECES AT ONCE ENDING UP WITH A LEFT AND A RIGHT SIDE OF THE PIECE .

X1
C UT 1 PIECE ON A SINGLE LAYER OF FABRIC

OR

IF SAYS “ FOLDED / MIRROR ” YOU CUT 1 ON FOLD OF FABRIC . H ERE YOU ARE CUTTING
THROUGH A DOUBLE LAYER TO GET A WHOLE PIECE WITHOUT A SEAM

GAINLINE ARROW
IS THERE TO SHOW YOU HOW TO POSITION THE PIECE ACCURATELY ON THE FABRIC ’ S
GRAIN .
P IN ONE OF THE ARROWS IN PLACE , AND MEASURE FROM IT TO THE FABRIC ’ S
SELVAGE . Y OU T HEN MEASURE THE SECOND ARROW AND ADJUST SO THAT IT ’ S THE SAME
DISTANCE FROM THE SELVAGE .

 CUTTING YOUR FABRIC
LENGTHWISE / LENGTHWISE DOUBLE
FOLD

• T HI S L AYOUT I S USED WHEN CUTTI NG TWO

PI ECES THAT F I T S I DE BY S I DE ON THE F ABRI C ,
BUT NEED TO BE PL ACED ON THE FOLD FOR
CUTTI NG . O NCE I T I S CUT OPEN THE F ABRI C TO
GET A FUL L PI ECE , NOW THERE I S NO NEE D F OR
A SEAM .
• T HE PATTERN PI ECES WIL L S AY “ CENTERFOLD /
M I RRORED FABRI C ” AND YOU WI LL ALI GN THE
SI DE OF THE PATTERN PI ECE TO THE F OL D .
• C AN ALSO BE PARTI AL FOL DS L EAVI NG S OME
FABRI C AS SI NGLE LAYER .

TIP: BE S URE THE F UL L L ENGTH OF EACH F OL DED S IDE

I S THE SAME . WI DTH .

CROSSWISE FOLD

• F ABRI C I S USUALLY FOLDED SO THE CUT

ENDS MATCH .
• C ROSSWI SE FOL D CAN AL SO BE A
PARTI AL F OL D .
• T HE PATTERN PI ECES CAN BE PL ACED I N
OPPOS I NG DI RECTI ONS FOR
ECONOMI CAL US E OF F ABRI C .
• O FTEN USED WHEN PATTE RN PI ECES ARE
TOO WI DE TO F I T ON FABRI C FOLDED
L ENGTHWI S E .
• T OP AND TAI L L AYOUT MAY NOT WORK
FOR PRI NTED FABRI CS .

IMAGE SOURCE: THREADS MAGAZINE