Rizwan Sarwar 17-NTU-1333

Muhammad Hamza 17-NTU-1320

BSTMM (7th)

Department of Management Sciences

Lab Report for Garment Manufacturing

Submitted to Ma’am Muntaha Rafique

Lab 8
Identification of parts of
Straight cutter machine
 Parts identification of straight knife cutter
Abstract
In this experiment we came to know about the different parts of the straight knife
cutter machine which is used in garment manufacturing industry to cut the fabric according to
the given pattern. By this practical we know detailed information about the cutter and also watch
the working of cutter machine. This machine is used for low quantity of layers and used for that
fabric which is not able to cut by automatic cutter. In this practical, the different parts of the
vertical straight knife cutter were identified, and their working principle were analyzed. The
vertical straight knife cutter is used to cut the different plies of the fabric. After the marker
placement on the plies of the fabric, the straight knife cutter cuts the plies of the fabric according
to the predetermined marker. Vertical straight knife cutter is the semi-automatic machine which
need the man and the motor power to cut the fabric plies. This cutter has the vertical blade that
move along the plies for the cutting operations. During the cutting the fabric is stationary while
the machine moves. The vertical straight knife cutter consist on the vertical blade, electrical
motor, spreading handle, machine handle, throat plate, base plate, plate wing, presser foot,
presser foot bar, blade sharpening assembly, release lever, right and left follower, oil can,
attachment plug etc. The vertical straight knife cutter is portable, versatile, cheaper, easy to store,
and easy to handle. Most of the industries in Pakistan are using the vertical straight knife cutter
for the cutting of fabric.

Introduction
Cutting is the first physical step taken on the fabric. After marker making the marker
pcs with the fabric are cut for sewing. As different parts of a garment have different shapes the
cutting arrangements changes with it. A knife is the best choice for efficient fabric cutting. The
most commonly used fabric cutting machine is straight knife cutting machine. Straight knife
fabric cutting machine is the world’s most popular and most versatile which is widely used in
apparel industry. It is the most useful cutting instrument in apparel cutting. In apparel industry,
more than 99% cases this knife is used. This machine is called straight knife cutting machine
because its cutter is straight in shape. It is used for both woven & knit fabric. In this machine
different types of straight knife are used according to the different cutting objects. This machine
provides good efficiency.

Advantages of straight knife cutting machine:

 High production fabric cutting machine.
 Possible to cut large depth/height of fabric.
 Possible to cut fabric directly.
 Both sharpener and heavy curves be cut.
 Comparatively cheap and can be transferred easily from one place to another.
 Round corners can be cut more precisely then even round knife.
 Production speed is very good as up to 10 heights can be cut at a time.
 Garments components can be directly separated form fabric lays.
  Fabric can be cut from any angle.

Disadvantages of straight knife cutting machine:

 Blade deflection occurs is in some cases fabric cut pieces can be found faulty.
 Higher depth of fabric leads to higher faults.
 Intensity of accident is light.

Parts of straight cutter machine

1. Power Plug
2. ON/OFF
3. Base plate with four rollers
4. Blade / Cutter
5. Sharpening Device
6. Operator handle
7. Carry handle
8. Pressor foot
9. Motor
1. Handle:

In the cutting machine the handle is at above of motor that is used the lifting of cutting machine
to carry it from one place to other.

2. Blade sharpening assembly:

The blade is sharpened by it. The blade sharpening assembly moves up and down and sharpens
the blade.

3. Presser foot bar assembly:

The presser foot is attached with the presser foot bar. The presser foot bar is made up of metal.
The presser foot moves with the help of the presser foot bar and apply the required pressure on
the plies of the fabric.

4. Presser foot:

The presser foot is used for the applying the pressure on the piles so the plies remain in one
position during the cutting and the presser foot bar is also made up of metal and it is larger than
the presser foot bar in the sewing machine and this is used for the pressing the piles so that piles
do not slip

5. Oil cane:

Oil cane is used to provide the lubricant to the machine part. It is transparent and having the oil
inside it. Simply it is used for the lubrication and it reduces the friction between the machine
parts.

6. Motor:

Cutting machine contains the motor and the motor runs the machine. The motor used is of higher
rpm from 3000-3600. Motor is connected with the power supply

7. ON/OFF switch:

The on off switch is used to on and off the machine. The machine runs with the help of the ON
(started) and off (stopped) switch

8. Slide cover:

The slide cover is a cover that has the cam inside. The cam is used for the lifting of the knife up
and down. The shaft moves which moves the cam.

9. Shaft cam:

It is responsible for the lifting and lowering the knife according to the requirements. Its position
is inside the slide cover

10. Knife:

The knife is used to cut the fabric. The knife is made up of metal. The one side of the knife is
sharp. Knife is used to cut the fabric in bulk. The length of the knife decides that how much plies
need to be cut. And it is the basic part of the machine that is used for the cutting.

11. Knife slide:

The knife is attached with the knife slide. The knife slide is used to slides the knife up and down.

12. Shaft cover:

The shaft cover has the shaft inside. The shaft moves up and down and the shaft is attached with
the cam. It is made up metal and as the shaft moves up and down and moves the cam.

13. Right and left follower:

The right and the left follower are attached above the motor. The right and the left follower are
attached beside the shaft cover. These are two in numbers and move the knife in the up and the
down direction

14. Machine Handle:

The machine handle is attached above the motor that is used for the lifting of the motor.

15. Spreading handle:

The process to spread the fabric for the cutting is called the spreading. The operator uses the
spreading handle to move the machine. The cutting machine is used to cut the fabric according to
the specific marker. The operator moves the machine over the spreader with the help of the
spreading handle.

16. Base plate:

Base plate supports the fabric. Base plate works in conjunction with the throat plate to provide
the base for the fabric. The fabric plies are placed on it for cutting operation

17. Throat plate:

It works in conjunction with the base plate for providing base for fabric plies. It helps for the
easy insertion or removal of fabric plies.

18. Plate wing:

The curve part of the base and the throat plate is called the plate wing. It provides the base for
the machine so that the machine can stand on it. It provides the support so that machine remained
in the balanced position while working.

19. Release lever:

It moves the blade sharpening assembly in the up and the down direction. The blade of the
machine is sharpened after pressing it.

20. Attachment plug:

The attachment plug is used to give the power to the motor. It is a plug attached to the machine
used for the turning on the machine with the help of power supply.

Working principle:
Two kind of power are required to operate a straight knife.
Motor power drives the reciprocating blade.
Operator power drives the knife through the lay.
The motor power needed is determined by
Height of the lay.
The construction of the fabric.
The curvature of the line being cut.
The stroke of the blade.

The greater the power of the motor the heavier will be the machine. The taller stand, the thicker
its cross-section and the greater its width, adding resistance to the forward movement on a curve.
The greater the blade movement the faster the blade cuts the fabric and the more rapidly and
easily the operator can push the machine. Operator effort is affected by the weight of the motor,
the shape of the stand, handle height, stroke, sharpness of blade and the effect of the base plate
rollers on the table surface.

Conclusion
From this practical we came to know about the parts and functions of the straight knife
cutter machine. We observe the machine and working of that cutter machine. By performing this
experiment we achieve our objective of this lab. In this lab we studied the different parts of the
cutting machine. The cutting is the main process of the manufacturing of the garments the
vertical straight knife cutting machine is used to cut the fabric. The straight knife cutting
machine was studied in this. We observe that there is the knife that is attached with e knife slide.
There was the automatic knife sharpening device and the presser foot presses the fabric. The base
plate supports the fabric. There parts are lubricated with the oil in the oil cane. There was a
reverse lever. The slide plate has the cam inside. The cam is attached with the shaft. The shaft
moves up and down to move the cam. The machine was lifted with handle. The spreader handle
is use to move the machine on the plies according to the marker. These were the few main parts
of the cutting that we studied in this lab. So I concluded the straight knife cutting machine is
used to cut the fabric in bulk.