END TERM

T E X T I L E

TEXTILE PROCESSING
TEXTILE PROCESSING

P R O C E S S I N G
ANJALI HRISHIKESAN
TEXTILE DESIGN
SEMESTER 04
 TOPIC

SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

TEXTILE PROCESSING
TEXTILE PROCESSING

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 SUSTAINABLE
PROCESSING OF ERI
SILK
CONTENT TABLE

About Silk 03
Types of silk 04

TEXTILE PROCESSING
TEXTILE PROCESSING

About Eri Silk 06

Where is it cultivated? 07
Processing of Eri Silk 08
Usage 10
CONCLUSION: What makes it sustainable? 11
Resources 12

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 ABOUT SILK
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

Silk is called the Queen of Textiles. It has always been the choice of fabric of Royalty and
Nobility. It still is the choice fabric of designers and creators of apparel and connoisseurs of
great dressing. Silk has that certain natural fineness that other textiles cannot match.
Silk is the strongest natural textile in the world and remains the strongest fabric made through
natural processes. While other insects also produce silk-like substances, most of the world’s silk
is derived from Bombyx mori larvae, which are worms that only live on mulberry trees. In
certain lighting conditions, silk produces a shimmering optical effect, which is due to the
triangular prism-like structure of silk fibers.

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 MULBERRY SILK
most loved and widely used around the world. 80% silk textiles are
mulberry
Its used in mekhela and chadar of Assamese women for example
MUGA SILK
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

most difficult to produce, most expensive also. costs rs.25000+ for
1kg
TASAR SILK
TYPES produced in many southeast Asian countries including India. also
OF called oak tasar
ERI SILK
SILK indigenous to the northeastern region of India. the fiber of the
cocoon is not reeled. The cocoon is open-ended and the moth
emerges or worm is extracted. All other silk cocoons require boiling
in hot water to reel the continuous fibers. Eri silkworms are reared
indoors

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 TYPES OF SILK
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/3255/characteristics-of-silk-filament-at-different-layers-of-mulberry-and-tasar-cocoons

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 ABOUT ERI SILK
Eri silk is often termed as peace silk as it is processed without killing the pupac inside. It is also
called poor man's silk as it is not so exorbitantly priced as other silks. It is traditionally handspun
directly from the cocoon using the conventional spinning device- takli, a drop spindle. Eri Silk is one
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

of the purest forms of Silk that is a true and genuine product of the Samia cynthia ricini worm.

Eri worm can be reared and harvested many times in a year, usually five to six times. The rearers
select the best cocoons for the best eggs. Adult moths live only for 3-10 days eating nothing. It seems
silk moths live only to love and procreate. In their short life span, each female moth lays about 400-
500 eggs. The eggs hatch in 9-10 days and the larvae start feeding immediately. The worms are
voracious eaters and can eat up to 30,000 times their weight of leaves.

The fiber of this silk has cotton-like behavior. Eri has a rougher texture and is heavier than other
silks but it can be spun into finer and shinier material. But it is softer than other silks or cotton
which makes it the preferred fabric in Germany and some other European countries for making
baby nappies. They are softer than cotton and not abrasive, therefore very suitable for baby’s tender
skin.

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 E
WHERE IS IT

R
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

CULTIVATED?
Eri caterpillars are grown in the states of
Meghalaya, Assam, Nagaland, Manipur,
Arunachal Pradesh and a few other small

I
cities in other states. Around forty percent of
Eri Silk is produced in Nagaland, Meghalaya,
Manipur, Bihar, Orrisa, Karnataka, Assam,
Andhra Pradesh and Jharkhand. The bulk of
Eri Silk production gives Assam the name of
Eri Silk state.

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 PROCESSING OF ERI COCOONS
The Eri cocoons are open-mouthed since their silk filament is discontinuous.
Eri silk has certain excellent textile properties such as fineness (2-2.5 denier) and thermal properties which play an
important role in determining the end-use of a fiber.
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

Eri silk is finer than muga and tasar silk. A major portion of Eri cocoons produced in the region is locally spun
through traditional devices like Takli and other spinning devices like CSTRI spinning wheels etc.

DRYING
Sun drying is usually practiced because of its simplicity. However, hot air drying is preferable where cocoons are
kept at 95 to 55 0C for 3-4 hours.
As Eri pupa is mostly consumed by the people in this region, a stifling process is not required. However, shell
drying is necessary for preservation and storage.
Clean, dry, and uniform quality cocoons are taken for spinning.

TRADITIONAL SILK DEGUMMING PROCESS

The cocoons are loosely tied in a cotton cloth and boiled in 10g Soda/l of water for 45 minutes to 1 hour. After
boiling, individual cocoons are stretched or opened up in plain water into thin sheets. 3-4 such sheets are joined to
make a cake, which is dried and used for spinning in Takli. Locally available materials such as ash obtained from
banana, wheat stalk, paddy straw, and pieces of green papaya are commonly used as degumming chemical instead of
soda.

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 MODIFIED SILK DEGUMMING METHOD
Eri cocoons are loosely tied in a porous cloth and the bundle is immersed in an alkaline solution of 10-12g soap and
2-4g Soda per liter of water and boiled for an hour. The cocoons are then washed and reboiled in freshwater for 15-
30 minutes. After proper washing, the cocoon shells are dried without disturbing the fiber layer and then utilized
for spinning especially in CSTRI machines.
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

SPINNING
The Takli consists of a spindle with a disc-like base. The spinner holds the cocoon cake in the left hand, drafts, and
then feeds the strand with the right hand to the spindle. The spindle is occasionally rotated by the right hand in
order to wind the yarn to the spindle. Production is around 40-60g/ person/days.

WEAVING
Generally throw shuttle looms are conveniently used for weaving Eri cloth. The preliminary operation for weaving
includes sizing and warping which is winding of the thread for warp. The processes are mainly manual. The warp is
prepared section by section either in horizontal drum or in hand reel. The fabric can thus have the required width.
The weft thread is fitted on a bobbin into a boat-shaped shuttle. The finished fabric is wound on the cloth beam
steadily.
Nowadays, fly shuttle loom is used for better equality Eri fabric and also for blended fabric.

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 Examples of consumer apparel items made from silk include scarves,
shirts, blouses, and eveningwear. Due to its lightweight and soft
attributes, silk is also a favorite material for lingerie and underwear
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

for men. In the home, silk might be used to make decorative pillows,
USAGE OF curtains, or wall hangings.
SILK
Even though there are synthetic alternatives for this application,
Silk can be used in
many parachute manufacturers still make their products with silk
thousands of different
due to this material’s durable and lightweight applications. In
ways.
addition, medical practitioners and surgeons use silk surgical sutures
to close wounds and surgical openings. This fiber is very thin, and it
has antibacterial attributes, which makes it ideal for this application.

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 CONCLUSION

WHAT MAKES ERI

SUSTAINABLE?
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

No toxic chemicals are used in its production. The only ‘chemical’ that comes in touch with it
is alkaline soap that is used during the degumming process.
The Eri silkworms are fed castor or tapioca (cassava) leaves – both regenerate quickly and
they grow organically.
After that is the cocoon production stage, where the cocoons are degummed by boiling them
in water with a locally procured alkaline soap. The soap we use is handmade by the villagers.
Alkaline soaps are made from plant oils like coconut oil etc or acids derived from animal fat.
At the dyeing stage, natural ingredients are used. Even for mordant Eri silk dyers use plants.
For some colors, like when dyeing with mulberry fruits and onion skin, Alum works better
as a mordant.

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 SOURCES
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF ERI SILK

https://www.muezart.com/blogs/muezart-musings/eri-silk-
queen-of-textiles
https://www.utsavpedia.com/textiles/eternally-elegant-and-
beautiful-eri-silk/
https://www.hindawi.com/journals/amse/2020/9750393/
https://acumenias.in/current-affairs-detail/eri-silk
http://silks.csb.gov.in/belgaum/processing-of-eri-cocoons/
https://www.muezart.com/blogs/muezart-musings/eri-silk-an-
eco-friendly-fiber-other-eco-friendly-fibers

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THANK YOU