Pattern Development

Pattern development is the process of transforming a garment

design into its required flat pattern pieces and then drafting them out.
Pattern making can be divided in two stages namely measuring correctly &
the technique devised to include necessary seam allowance, ease allowances
and darts. Pattern for a garment is the blue print on the basis of which the
fabric is cut. Patterns can be developed through the following methods:
1) Draping Method
2) Drafting Method
1) DRAPING
✓ Draping is the oldest pattern making method.
✓ In this method a piece of muslin fabric is draped directly on a dress
form or figure with accurate measurements.
✓ This fabric is fitted on the dress form to get the desired look or shape.
✓ The fabric may be fitted to the basic shape of the form or arranged
artistically in folds for a specific design.
✓ This muslin pattern is then transferred on the paper, corrections are
made, if any, and then the same are converted into a final pattern.

Stages of Draping

✓ A muslin cloth is spread on a dress form and drapes it using pins. Mark
darts using tailor's chalk for getting correct size and shape. After
fitting the dress correctly and marking, it is removed from the dress
form.
✓ Then, using tracing wheel & carbon paper, the parts we marked in
the muslin cloth and darts are copied on a brown paper for making
patterns.
✓ Using temporary stitches we can make a dress and check the fit. After
rectifying the defects it can be stitched.

Principles of Draping

✓ Always use grain lines. Straight grain should be always run

perpendicular to the floor and cross grain parallel to the floor.
✓ The body lines such as bust line, waist line, hipline etc. should be
parallel to the floor.
 ✓ Use good quality pins.
✓ Establish seam lines on the form.
✓ Tear the muslin cloth instead of cutting and check the balance of warp
and weft.
✓ Mark grain lines, and place the muslin on the form as per the marked
lines.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Draping

No. Advantages Disadvantages

1 Without cutting the fabric we can

Draping requires more talent than
know the entire effect of a
required for flat pattern design.
garment.

2 Corrections can be made easily. It requires a model.

3 As the design can be visualized

Laborious process and is more time
any necessary changes can also be
consuming method.
made.

4 Varies styles can be tried over the Not economical as fabric consumption
model. is more.

5 Initially dresses are draped on

The harmony between draped dummy with a cheaper fabric so
fabric, design and wearer can be sometimes the look of the garment
obtained. cannot be assessed precisely by this
method.

2) DRAFTING
✓ Drafting is the system of drawing patterns on paper with mechanical
precision on the basis of body measurements.
✓ In drafting, body measurements are directly used for developing a
pattern.
✓ This system depends on accurate measurements.
✓ With step by step procedure, the measurements are converted into a
pattern.
✓ This method is easy but requires some calculations.
Stages of Drafting

✓ Accurate measurements taken from a person, dress-form or a standard

measurement chart. (Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on.)
✓ Add required ease allowance to the measurements.
✓ Draw rectangular blocks, landmark lines and construction lines on paper
according to these measurements.

Principles of Drafting

✓ Patterns should be made larger than the body size by adding ease
allowance to the actual measurement.
a) Bust – 2” to 5″ (2″ for a tight fitting garment and 5″ for loose
fitting one).
b) Waist – ½″ to 1 ½” .
c) Hips – 2″ to 4″.
d) Upper arm – 2″ to 4″.
e) Arm hole depth – ½” to 1″
✓ For symmetric designs (where the right and left side of the garment are
same), the paper pattern could be made only for half front and half back.
But for the sleeve part, a full pattern must be made.
✓ It is better to draft the basic pattern block first then while cutting, seam
allowances should be added to the pattern and markings should be made
on the fabric.
✓ The following construction detailed information should be recorded and
marked clearly.
a) Name of each piece of pattern.
b) Number of pieces to be cut with each pattern piece.
c) Seam lines and cutting lines should be clearly, if seam allowance is
included in the draft.
d) Centre front (CF) as well as centre back (CB) lines should be marked
in the block pattern.
e) Straight grain or lengthwise line should be drawn on all patterns.
f) Matching notches or balance marks should be provided to show
which seams are to be joined together.
g) Folding lines, dart marking, pleat markings etc. should be clearly
shown.
 Advantages and Disadvantages of Draping

No. Advantages Disadvantages

1
Pattern cutting is now widely It is time consuming process as it
used because of its accuracy. takes lot of time to draft the pattern.

2 Cutting with the help of a paper

pattern is quicker and easier It requires knowledge in techniques
than drafting straightaway on and principles of drafting.
the fabric.
3 A pattern prepared on thick The paper pattern can be rarely used
paper or card board can be more than once unless copied on a
preserved for a long time. thick sheet.
4 Its saves time and wastage of
fabric during cutting compared
to direct fabric cutting.

5 By manipulating basic blocks it is

possible to produce new designs
or more complicated designs.
(Eg. the basic sleeve can be
adapted for a puff sleeve or bell
sleeve etc.)