Dire dawa university

Institute of technology
School Of Textile Apparel and Fashion
Design
Department of Apparel And Fashion Design
Group Assignment of Fabric Embellishment

NAME ID
1, Samuel Dagne ……………………………………………..1103381
2, Lelisa Merga………………………………………………….1104122
3, Mekdes Debebe……………………………………………1103218
4,Tseday Berhanu……………………………………………..1104093

Sub to: miss. Aster.

Sub date: 30/3/12
 Objectives of this assignment
 At the end of this assignment, student are expected to:
 Understand the history of printing
 Detail explanation about printing
 Difference between dyeing and printing
 Technique of printing roughly
 Method which fashion designer use for printing
 INTRODUCTION
Printing is one method of decorating a fabric or garment. So in this assignment, we will see in
detail manner about printing starting from ancient history and technique of printing and what
method should fashion designer use, I think this assignment will give brief knowledge about
printing.
  History of printing
Printing was known in Europe, Woodblock printing is a technique for printing text, images or patterns
used widely in East Asia and probably originating in China on textiles and later on paper. As a method of
printing on cloth, the earliest surviving examples from China date to before 220.
By the 2nd Century A.D, Chinese textile printers introduced stencil techniques for fabric adornment to
Japan, where the process was further developed all over the world, similar developments continued to
happen that resulted in the evolution of prints, including batik, tie-dye, and shibori. Around this time,
intricately designed Indian fabrics were also being imported into Europe and Africa. Batik, an Indonesian
word, is now a generic term for a process of dyeing a fabric via a resist technique.
Over 2,000 years old, this textile printing method often uses wax as a dye resistant substance that
blocks color absorption. Batik increases the artistic freedom of designers as they are able to draw
patterns before immersing the fabric in dye. A durable batik product results, surpassing the
colorfastness or fade-resistance of other painted or printed cloths. During the 8th Century, the
technique of shibori first came into Japan from China and explored.

 Explanation of printing
printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or designs. It involves the production
of a predetermined colored pattern on a fabric. Thus, in general applying colored patterns and designs to
decorate a finished fabric is called 'Printing'. The word ‘’printing’’ is derived from a Latin word which
means “pressing “. It implies a process that uses pressure. In a proper printed fabric, the color is affixed
to the fiber or fiber surface (pigment) so that it may not be affected by washing and friction or any other
means. It’s a combination of art, engineering & dyeing

Printing is one kind of localized dyeing where dyes or pigments & chemical applied by any method
which can produce a particular effect of color on fabric according to design. It is applying colorant to
selected areas of the fabric to build up the design. The main objective of the textile printing is to
produce various attractive designs. print color is applied only to defined areas to obtain the desired
pattern. There are three basic approaches or styles to printing a cloth or fabric. They are: Direct printing,
Discharge printing and Resist printing. There are seven distinct methods at present in use for producing
coloured patterns on cloth: Hand block printing, Perrotine printing, Engraved copperplate printing,
Roller printing, cylinder printing, or machine printing, Stencil printing, Screen-printing and Digital textile
printing. A typical printing process is carried out in different steps starting with pre-treatment of fabric,
preparation of colors, preparation of printing paste, impression of paste on fabric using printing
methods, drying of fabric, fixing the printing with steam or hot air (for pigments), after process
treatments.

In properly printed fabrics, the colour is bonded with the fibre, so as to resist washing and
friction. Colourants used in printing contain dyes thickened to prevent the colour from spreading by
capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design.

Feature of Printing:
 Printing is applied in form of design or pattern. Single or multi color can be applied.
 A special type of viscous liquid is used to hold the dye/pigment & chemical which is called ‘Print
paste’.
 High viscosity of print paste helps dye to adhere to surface of fiber. But the fixation is done by
applying steam which is called ‘curing’
  For dyeing low viscous or aqueous medium is used but printing is done in wet viscous medium.
 The Dyes used for printing mostly include vat, reactive and disperse dyes which have good
fastness properties.
 The pigments, which are not truly dyes, are also used extensively for printing. About 96% is done
by pigment. These colors are fixed to the fiber through binder.

Alternative process of textile printing.

There are some alternative processes for applying colorful design on fabric. But printing is the
cheapest process that’s why it is widely used. The other processes are….
 By dyed yarn in form of woven fabric.
 Embroidery
 Knitted with colored yarn.
 Appliqué and etc.

Process flowchart of textile printing:

Fabric preparation
↓
Preparation of printing device (block/flat or rotary screen, roller)
↓
Printing paste preparation
↓
Impress on fabric
↓
Drying the printed fabric
↓
Fixation by curing
↓
Washing & soaping
↓
Finally dry
↓
Delivery

Differences between Dyeing and Printing

 Dyeing:
Dyeing is the process of applying color in any one of a variety of methods and techniques using any one
or more of the different dyes and dyestuff. Color application by dyeing involves the impregnation of
color into fiber, yarn, fabric or product by machine or hand.
 Printing:
When the different types of color used to make a particular design on the textile goods is called printing.
Normally printing is performed on the textile goods in dry condition. printing is related to dyeing but in
dyeing properly the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one color, whereas in printing one or more
colors are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns. However, instead of
coloring the whole substrate (cloth, garment or yarn) as in dyeing, printing is related to dyeing but in
 dyeing properly the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, whereas in printing one or more
colours are applied to it in certain parts only.
Difference or Comparison between Dyeing and Printing:
Dyeing Printing

1 The process by which a textile

product is changed physically or 1To produce different designs on the
chemically so that it looks mono fabric with motif in one or more
m
uniform colored is called dyeing. colors one kind of localized dyeing
that is pigments or a dye are applied
2 In dyeing process, dyed in one locally or discontinuously is known
color uniformly all over the as Printing.
fabric.
2 In printing process, color is applied
3 It is performed on fabric, yarn in in one side according to the design
wet condition. only.
4 Half bleaching is enough for 3 It is performed on fabric in dry
fabric preparation. condition.
4 Full-bleaching with optical whitener
5 Dyeing process used for fiber, is essential.
yarn and fabric. 5 Printing process used for only
6 Color is applied in form of fabric.
6 Color is applied in form of thick
solution.
paste.
7 For dyeing there is no design 7 For printing there is a specific
design.
8 Dyes are applied in both side of 8 Dyes are applied in single side of
fabric. fabric.
9 For this process only one color is 9 One or more colors are used in
generally printing

10 In dyeing process, color 10 Color is applied only on the

penetrates through the fabric. surface.
11 A particular temperature is 11 There is no particular temperature
maintained in dyeing process. controlling system in printing.
12 Thickener is not used.
12 Thickener must be used.
13 The density of dye solution is low
13 The density of dye solution is high.
  Important method of printing fashion designer use
In printing there are four methods there are: screen printing, digital (DTG), heat transfer, and
sublimation textile printing methods! Although For a fashion designer the suitable method or
the method which many designer are using is screen printing and digital (direct to
garment)printing.

1, Screen-printing
Screen-printing is a printing method where screens and mesh are used to create a design on
fabric. First, a stencil version of a design is made out of a nylon mesh screen. The fabric is
placed underneath the mesh screen that’s stretched over a frame. Next, the ink/dye is applied
one color at a time with a squeegee and pressed firmly into the fabric. There are two types of
screen printing- flat bed screen printing and rotary screen printing
Best Used For:
Since one color is applied at a time, this method is most viable for designs with a few solid, flat
colors. This is also a great method for designs with special details like prints with crisp, thin
lines. Special inks can be used to add different textures and surfaces like metallic or foiling
finishes.
Pros:
The setup cost is high, but once the screens and stencils are made, you can produce several
prints for a great price! Fabric choice is unlimited! As far as color vibrance, intensity, and
permanence– screen printing reigns supreme. The inks penetrate deeply into the fabric, holding
better and longer than other forms of printing.
Cons:
Photographic, tonal and gradient prints won’t work as there are just too many colors. Screen
printing is typically limited to 8-12 screens/colors. The design has to fit within the screen
measurements so it’s not ideal for allover prints or continuous designs. Sample prints are too
costly because the costs just to create the screens is too high.

2 Digital (Direct-to-Garment) Printing

Digital Printing and (direct-to-garment) is done with a special printer and water-soluble ink. The
designs are printed directly from the computer file either on a garment or fabric roll similar to
how your inkjet printer at home prints on paper. Finally, the artwork is heat set with a heat
press or tunnel dryer.
Best Used For:
This method prints exactly what’s on the computer screen. So it’s great for highly detailed,
sophisticated prints with photographic, tonal or gradated colors.
Pros:
Inks are designed specifically for each type of fabric, allowing for limitless fabric options! This
method is great for small quantities because the less you print, the less it costs. Maximum
design detail, precision, and consistency!
Cons:
The ink doesn’t penetrate very deeply, and it can start to wear off after repeated washes.
Since the ink doesn’t penetrate well, this method isn’t suitable for dark colored garments.
The color is flat- not as textural and bold as screen-prints.

Printing Techniques
1. Engraved Roller printing
2. Screen printing
3. Stencil printing
4. Block printing
5. Spray printing
6. Heat transfer or thermal transfer printing
7. Direct to garment digital printing (DTG)
8. Printing with inkjet printers.
9. Sublimation transfer printing.
10. Photo Printing.
conclusion