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Chocolate—Food of the Gods!

Thalia Hohenthal
Guittard Chocolate Co.

Resident
Course in
Confectionery
Technology
Outline
• Where does Cacao come from?
• How is chocolate made? (Optional: The Story of Chocolate Video –
NCA)
• Standards of identity
• Receiving and storage of chocolate prior to use
• Melting chocolate for use and tempering
• Selection and specification of chocolate
♦ Fineness and Viscosity (including brief summary of measurement)

♦ Enrobers

♦ Molding

♦ Panning

• Cooling, packing, and finished product storage


• Bloom and Bloom Diagnostics
• Shipping finished products

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Theobroma Cacao—Food of the Gods

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Source of Cacao
• Third world countries all 15-20 degrees of Equator
• Top producing cocoa countries: Ivory Coast, Ghana
♦ Also Indonesia, Nigeria, Cameroon, Brazil, Ecuador and
Malaysia
• 85-90% of world crop grown by small farmers (less than 5
ha)—the family farm

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Flowers on main branches and trunk

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Flowers

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Flower bud and cherelle

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A productive tree

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Pod

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Harvesting is a manual selection

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Sorting to remove diseased beans

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Fermenting

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Drying in yard

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Large scale drying—on rollers in case of rain

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How is Chocolate Made?

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Sample Milk Chocolate-Minimum Composition

53.4% Sugar
24.2 Cocoa butter
12.0 Dry whole milk
10.0 Chocolate liquor
0.3 Lecithin
0.1 Vanillin (an artificial flavor)

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Simplified Process Flow Chart
Raw Cocoa
Beans

Cleaning

Roasting

Shell Removal

Nibs to Liquor
Milling
Sugar
Liquor Pressing
O ther Ingredients

Press Cake Cocoa Butter Chocolate Mixing


Filtering
Cocoa Powder
Refining
Milling
Conching
Packing
Tank Adjustment

Tempering

Depositing

Cooling Tunnel

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Technology
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Typical Bean Blends
• Chocolate Manufacture • Cocoa Powder Mfg.
• Base ♦ Ivory Coast
♦ Ivory Coast/Ghana ♦ Nigeria
♦ Indonesia (cost) ♦ Indonesia
• Flavor ♦ Malaysia
♦ Arriba (Ecuador) • Color
♦ Venezuela ♦ Cameroon
♦ Trinidad
♦ New Guinea
♦ Java

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Flavor Control

• Fermentation
• Bean Blend
• Roasting
• Nib / Liquor Treatment
• Mixer Formula
• Conching

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Cacao Plant Cell–Cotyledon

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Barth Batch Roaster for Cocoa Beans or Nibs

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Nib Grinding

• Efficient removal of cocoa butter from within the cell


(20-30 μm in size)
• Fibrous and tough - shear required
• Final maximum particle size 15-50 μm
• Accomplished in two steps
• Influenced by shell content, degree of roasting,
alkalization

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Cocoa Pressing

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Chocolate Refining

• Grinding requirements depend on chocolate type


and end use
• Five-roll refiners most commonly used
• Sizes sugar and milk particles

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Five Roll Refiner SFLA

Front Side Access

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Frisse Double-Overthrow Conche
DÜC -6

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Standards of Identity for Chocolate
Federal Standards of Identity-21 CFR §
♦ Chocolate Liquor (163.111)
♦ Cocoa Powder (10-12%) (163.113)
♦ Breakfast or High Fat Cocoa (22-24%)
(163.112)
♦ Milk Chocolate (163.130)
♦ Dark Chocolate (163.123)
− Sweet Dark
− Semi-sweet or Bittersweet
♦ White Chocolate (163.124)

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Chocolate Standards–Essentials
• Only cocoa butter and butter oil permitted fats
• Chocolate flavor from chocolate liquor only
• Only “nutritive carbohydrate sweeteners”
permitted
• No flavors simulating chocolate or dairy
permitted

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Milk Chocolate Standard–21 CFR § 163.

• Chocolate liquor 10% minimum


(no maximum)
• Milk 12% minimum
• Milk Fat 3.0% minimum

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Dark Chocolate Standard–21 CFR §163.

• Sweet Dark Chocolate


♦ Chocolate liquor 15 min 35 max
♦ Milk Fat 12% maximum

• Semi-sweet / Bittersweet Chocolate


♦ Chocolate liquor 35% minimum
♦ Milk Fat 12% maximum
♦ No maximum liquor level!

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Dark Chocolate–Example Compositions
• Minimum Semi-sweet • 70% Bittersweet

50.4% Sugar 29.4% Sugar


35.0% Chocolate liquor 70.0% Chocolate liquor
14.0% Cocoa butter -- Cocoa butter
0.3% Lecithin 0.3% Lecithin
0.1% Vanillin 0.3% Vanilla
(an artificial flavoring)

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White Chocolate Standard—21 CFR 163.124

• Only fats permitted are cocoa butter and butter


oil (added as is or via milk components)
• Same permitted dairy ingredients as milk
chocolate
• No added flavors to simulate the flavor of milk

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Receiving, Storing, and Melting Chocolate
Receiving Chocolate
• Verify that–
♦ Trailer is clean and free of odors
♦ Product is what it is supposed to be
♦ Product temper is good
♦ Product specifications are met
♦ Satisfactory temperature control during
shipment
♦ Cases are not damaged or torn
♦ Above all just taste it– make sure it is OK
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Chocolate Storage

• Constant temperature is best


Recommend 60-70°F, 50% RH max.
• Free of all strong odors
Be particularly aware of “air conditioning” odors
• First in — First Out stock rotation
Teach personnel how to read code dates

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Chocolate Storage Problems–Before Use
• Pick up of off odors from the storage area
♦ Other food products (mints, flavor ingredients,
spices, onions, etc..)
♦ Other products (maintenance oils, cleaning
supplies, etc..)
♦ Air conditioning systems (dirty filters or cooling
coils, plugged drain pans–also microbiological
issue)
• Moisture pickup
♦ From high RH storage, thickens chocolate
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Moisture Absorption in Storage
• Type of chocolate or compound makes a
difference
♦ Dark << Milk << White
• Issue of temperature and relative humidity
• RH less than 50% highly recommended
• Form is important
♦ 10 lb. Bars << wafers or ribbons or chunks
• Protect with packaging / air tight containers

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Chocolate Melting
• Temperature sensitivity
♦ White > Milk >>>>> Dark
• Ideal jacket temperatures
♦ Dark 160 - 180 °F
♦ Milk 140 - 160 °F
♦ White 120 - 140 °F
• Watch out for “hot spots”
♦ Steam entry point
♦ Poor agitation, agitator not clearing surface
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Chocolate Selection by the Confectioner
Key elements of chocolate for the confectioner

• Flavor
• Color
• Particle size (fineness)
• Viscosity
• Fat content

• Melt properties (cocoa butter hardness)


• pH (for baking performance)

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Cocoa Butter Melting Profile
80
hardness / snap
70
60
% solid fat

50
heat flavor release
40 resistance cooling sensation
30
20 waxiness
10
0
50F 70F 80F 92F 96F 100F

temperature

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Particle Size Measurement

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Matching Fineness to Centers

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Particle size measurement
• Hegman gauge
• Micrometer (AACT Method)
• Microscopy / Image analysis
• Sedimentation, centrifugation
• Sieve
• Electrical zone sensing (Coulter)
• Light scattering– laser (Microtrac)

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Micrometer

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Micrometer Fineness Method–
American Association of Candy Technologists (AACT)
Upper Rotating Anvil

Lower Stationary Anvil

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AACT Micrometer Fineness Method
• Rotating micrometer must be used
• 50 / 50 Oil and chocolate well mixed
• Micrometer cleaned and zeroed
• Temperature sensitive
• Consistent slip or ratchet clutch between
technicians and micrometers
• Micrometer in good repair–free movement, not
“catching”
• Put away clean with the anvils slightly open

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The micrometer Vernier scale (US measure)
Vernier Scale Thimble Scale
10 10 (Turns)
9 9

Alignment at 8 8 8
7 7
6 6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
0
0
25
24

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US to metric conversion
Ten-thousandths of an inch Microns
3 7.6
4 10.2
5 12.7
6 15.2
7 17.8
8 20.3
9 22.9
10 25.4
11 27.9
12 30.5
13 33.0
14 35.6

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Viscosity
Viscosity–What is it and how is it measured

Viscosity:
Resistance to flow
(“thickness” / “thinness”)

Rheology:
The science of the deformation
and flow of fluids

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More definitions
• Shear rate
♦ How fast we are attempting to move the
chocolate
♦ rpm of the viscometer
♦ Designated by “DN”, units: seconds-1
• Shear Stress
♦ Force with which the chocolate resists flow
♦ Result of the shear rate
♦ Designated by Greek letter, tau, “∴CA”, units:
2
dynes/cm
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Bingham Plastic Foods

ketchup
mayonnaise
Shear Stress
τ
whipped cream

meringue

Shear Rate D
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Definition

• Plastic Viscosity, PV
Force to keep the mass in motion when it is
already moving
measured in “poise”

• Yield Value, YV
Force to start the mass flowing when it is at
rest
2
measured in “dynes/cm
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Viscosity of various materials
Hi PV
Hi PV
Lo YV Heavy, thick flowing Thick, stiff Hi YV
but no string, like ___________
like__________

PV

Has "standup" but


Flows like flows easily
___________ like ____________
Lo PV Lo PV
Lo YV Hi YV
YV
Chocolate viscosity

2
(1/Slope) =PV

(1 + a ) DN

2
1/2 (Intersect) =YV

(1 + a ) τCA

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Molten chocolate is a

concentrated suspension of 40-70


volume percent of sugar, cocoa and
milk particles in liquid fat.

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Viscosity is influenced by:

• Fat Content
• Moisture
• Surfactants
• Temperature
• Structural attributes of the particulate phase

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These attributes include:

• Particle size
• Particle size distribution
• Particle shape
• Particle density

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In general, viscosity decreases as:

• Particle size increases


• Particle size distribution broadens
• Particles become more spherical

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Effect of solids loading (fat content)

Maximum Solid Concentration Effects


on Suspension Viscosity
1000
Relative Viscosity

100

10

1
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7
Solid Volume Fraction

φm = 0.60 φm = 0.75

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Particle size distribution

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Viscosity impacts:
• Confectioner’s handling of chocolate
Coverage percent
♦ Dipping Thickness & uniformity
♦ Enrobing Side coating
♦ Molding Feet / tails
Air bubbles
Decoration
• Pumping
• Tank agitation
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Viscosity Ranges for Chocolate Use

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PV / YV Effect on Chocolate Handling
____________________PV___YV___Vibration/Air Blow
Pattern holding X
Feet and tails X
Flat surface coating X X X
Air bubble release X X X
Side and edge coating X X X X
Fill in rough surfaces X X X

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Air Bubble Release in Agitated Kettle

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Feet or Slump on Sides of Finished Goods

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Stringing Caused by High Yield Value

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Thin corners

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Pattern Holding on Candies

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Effect of Added Moisture on Milk Chocolate Viscosity

% Added PV YV YV/PV MacMichaels


Moisture Ratio

0.0 22.3 124 5.57 151


0.1 22.4 126 5.61 152
0.3 24.8 129 5.21 161
1.0 32.8 167 5.09 206

•PV increases
•YV / PV Ratio Decreases

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Effect of Heat Abuse on Milk Chocolate

Temperature PV YV YV/PV MacMichaels


o
C Ratio
40 22.3 124 5.57 151
71 21.2 124 5.87 148
85 20.6 126 6.12 148
95 19.3 132 6.83 147
100 18.3 141 7.70 149

(Milk chocolate stirred during heating. Total elapsed time 45


minutes)

•PV drops and YV increases


•YV / PV ratio increases significantly

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Viscosity Units of Measure

2
1 Poise = 1 dyne-sec/cm

10 Poise = 1 Pascal-sec, PaS

1 Poise = 100 centipoise

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Viscosity measurement samples–

• Should be fresh
Milk chocolate especially can pick up moisture in storage if
unprotected

• Must be gently melted


• Must be fully melted with gentle agitation /
stirring

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Brookfield Viscometer

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Adjustment of Chocolate
with Cocoa Butter

Source: Chocolate Production and


Use, Cook/Meursing, 1982

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Effect of Lecithin on PV and YV
Source: Industrial Chocolate Manufacture and Use, 2ed, Beckett, 1994

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Tempering

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Triglycerides take on a tuning fork configuration

C O CH2

CH O

C
C O CH2
O
O

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T>Tmelt T=Tmelt T<Tmelt
supercooling
True melt Crystal embryos Crystal lattice

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Consequently there are several types of triglyceride crystals

o
I sub-α 17.3 C
α
o
II 23.3 C
III β'2 25.5oC
IV β'1 27.3oC
V β 33.8oC
β
o
VI 36.3 C

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Chocolate Polymorphic Forms

Form Crystallizes Melt Range Stability Contraction

Κ <62.5 Up to 52.5 °F unstable

Ι from Κ Up to 75°F unstable 0.060 ml/g

ϑ’ 62.5 - 72.5 °F 59 - 85 °F semi-stable 0.086 ml/g

ϑ 72.5-92.5 °F 68-95 °F stable 0.097 ml/g

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Key Facts

• Desirable forms have a high melting point


• The higher melting point, the more stable
• More stable fats are more dense
• More stable forms are slow to form
• Like crystals will grow from like
• Cocoa butter can convert from a less to more stable
form

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Lattice Packing

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Cocoa butter

• Cocoa butter is largely triglycerides


• There has several stable crystal polymorphs
• Good chocolate can only be made from the stable
crystals

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Tempering

Tempering is a time-temperature
process ensure the formation of
chocolate in the right crystal habit

In practice this means we want 1-2%


solids at ~32oC which will act as
seeds when the melt is cooled

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Tempering

• Why temper?
♦ Demolding
♦ Snap
♦ Gloss
♦ Resistance to bloom
• Temperature and time control

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Chocolate Temper–Key Issues

Temperature Viscosity
# of Crystals
Rate of Cooling Set up speed
Size of Crystals
Time Initial Gloss
Type of Crystals
Agitation Stability

Contraction

Grain / Snap

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Tempering sequence

50oC
Melt
Cool - no crystallization
Form mix of crystals
Melt out unstable polymorphs
temperature

32oC 30-32oC 1-2% SFC

27oC

time
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Tempered Chocolate–a microscopic view
Good Temper sugar

cocoa butter
Over tempered
♦ Poor contraction
♦ Poor gloss
♦ Poor stability (blooms)
Poor Temper (over/melted)
♦ % mass is OK
♦ Number / size nuclei wrong
♦ Free path too long

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Hand Tempering

• Melt fat
• Pour melt onto slab and work with spatulas
• Return crystalline batch back to warm melt
• Mold Chocolate

Melt
Cool - no crystallization
Form mix of crystals
Melt out unstable polymorphs

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Kettle Tempering

Melt
Cool - no crystallization
Form mix of crystals
Melt out unstable polymorphs
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Nielsen Tempering Machine

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Batch vs. Continuous

• Simple to operate • Continuous operation


• Good for small • Good for large
quantities quantities
• Easy to clean • Small footprint
• Slow come-up time
• Large footprint

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Cooling curves
temperature

time

Over tempered GOOD TEMPER Under tempered

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Tempering

• Tempering is a process to ensure the formation of


stable crystals
• Tempering is a time-temperature process
• Tempering can be done as a batch or continuous
process
• Degree of temper can be measured from a cooling
curve

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What is bloom?

• White “moldy” appearance at the surface


• Major reason for product failure
• NOT a health hazard

Often caused by large fat crystals growing from the


surface and scattering light

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Types of Bloom

• High temperature bloom


• Low temperature bloom
• Fat migration bloom

Note: Bloom in compound coatings is different!

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High Temperature Bloom

• Fat is stored hot enough to melt (~35oC)


• Fat resolidifies and is no longer tempered
• Untempered chocolate rapidly grows bloom

U se a high melting fat if you can’t be certain of


distribution temperature

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Low Temperature Bloom

• In well tempered chocolate stored below its melting


point
• Associated with V to VI transition
• Occurs faster at high temperatures (esp. if temp.
cycles)

Reduce storage temperature

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Migration Bloom

• The movement of fat from an enrobed center to the


surface
• Dissolves some cocoa butter and caries it to the
surface
• Cocoa butter recrystalizes at the surface

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How to avoid bloom

• Temper the chocolate properly


• Store cool
• Add butter-fat
• Add emulsifier (e.g. sorbitan monostearate)

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Enrobing and Molding
Large Enrober

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Large Enrober--Hopper, Curtain and Blower

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Enrober with Outboard Tempering
• Uses same enrober as for inboard tempering
• Tempering unit set to deliver 10-15% more
than enrober needs
• Return passes through a “decrystallizer” or
“detemperer” (120°F heat exchanger or tank)
• Tempering unit must always be fed fresh
chocolate, no seed, at 104°F typical.

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Enrober with Inboard Tempering

1. Wire grid conveyor belt 6. Bottoming trough with surge roller


2. Stirred reservoir tank 7. Air blow-off nozzle
3. Chocolate pump 8. Shaker
4. Cooled tempering riser pipe 9. Licking rolls for bottom control
5. Distributor pan for chocolate curtain 10. De-tailer

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Strings

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Enrober Decorator or Stringer with Separate Tempering

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Enrober Troubleshooting

• Look for sources of heat (pumps, motors, night


heaters, drafts, etc..)
• For inboard tempering use “drip” feed
(maximum addition 10% of trough contents)
• For outboard tempering be certain product is
fully de-tempered (no nuclei)
• Avoid buildup of nut oil in enrober

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Shell Molding

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Cooling Chocolate
Mold Cooling Section

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Cooling Tunnels
• Convection
♦ Cooling tunnels with air blowing to provide
cooling
• Conduction
♦ Cooling provided by “cold slabs”
• “Radiant Cooling”
♦ Cooling provided by coils mounted above
product, no air blowing
♦ Not accurate as convection currents from the
coils provide cooling (see Heat Transfer paper)

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Cooling Tunnel Operation Cross Section

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Cooling Tunnel Problems
• Inadequate air blowing
• Air “shadowing” of product
• Over running tunnel
• Too cold exit temperature, condensation, sugar
bloom
• Lack of temperature probes in tunnel
• Air conditioning coil drains become clogged
(high moistures in tunnel)

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Incorrect Tunnel Air Movement–Shadowing

Direction of air movement

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Tunnel Air Movement–Shadowing Eliminated

Direction of air movement

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Shipping and Finished Product Storage
The Finishing Touch!

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Shipping Finished Goods
• Beware of possible temperature problems
♦ Staging on warm docks (bloom from heat
damage)
♦ Movement from cold room to warm humid dock
(condensation and sugar bloom)
♦ Loss of temperature control in shipment
• Maintain retention samples before movement
• Check temperature and humidity records

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Finished Product Storage
• Condition goods at 65-68°F for 24-48 hours to ensure full heat
release and set

• Constant temperature is best


Recommend in range 60-70°F, 50% RH max.
• Free of all strong odors
Be particularly aware of “air conditioning” odors
• First in — First Out stock rotation–read code dates
• Caution about humidity and condensation

When working with lower temperatures (sugar bloom)

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Dull Gray Fat Bloom in Storage of Product
• Sources of heat
♦ Marginal tempering especially coupled with
♦ Centers not sufficiently cooled (typically too short a
tunnel time)
♦ Heat trapped in packaging / packed in well insulated
containers too soon after tunnel
• Nut oil migration
♦ From center (oil roast, damaged or old nuts, vacuum
packed nuts) (affects tops and sides first in thin or low
spots)
♦ Contamination on cooling tunnel and packing belts
(affects bottoms first)
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