UC3 : CARE AND MAINTAIN CROPS

Apply pest control measure

 https://www.slideshare.net/praveen02061/pest-control-measures#:~:text=Sometimes
%20natural%20controls%20don't,%2C%20chemical%2C%20and%20regulatory%20methods.

 https://www.google.com/search?
q=pest+control+methods+agriculture&sa=X&biw=756&bih=748&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&
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https://www.epa.gov/safepestcontrol/dos-and-donts-pest-control

Do's and Don'ts of Pest Control

How can you safely solve your pest problems? The key is to be willing to ask
questions. Learning about the pests you have and options that are available to
control specific pests is the first step.

Learn more about the steps you can take to safely control pests:

 Try pest prevention first

 Do safely and correctly use pesticides
 Do dispose of leftover pesticides and pesticide containers properly
 Don't use outdoor chemicals indoors
 Don't assume that twice as much is better
  Don't transfer pesticides to other containers
 Additional resources

Try pest prevention first.

 Remove sources of food, water and shelter.
 Store food in sealed plastic or glass containers. Garbage containing food
scraps should be placed in tightly covered trash cans. Remove garbage
regularly from your home.
 Fix leaky plumbing and don't let water accumulate anywhere in the home.
Don't let water collect in trays under your house plants or refrigerator. Don't
leave pet food and water out overnight.
 Clutter provides places for pests to breed and hide and makes it hard to
get rid of them. Get rid of things like stacks of newspapers, magazines, or
cardboard.
 Close off places where pests can enter and hide. For example, caulk
cracks and crevices around cabinets or baseboards. Use steel wool to fill
spaces around pipes. Cover any holes with wire mesh.
 Learn about the pests you have and options to control them.
 Check for pests in packages or boxes before carrying them into your
home.

Top of Page

Do safely and correctly use pesticides.

 Keep pets and children away from areas where pesticides have been
applied.
 After preventive steps have been taken, you can use baits as a first line of
chemical defense against insects or rodents.
o These are often effective and can be used with low risk of exposure
to the pesticide, as long as they are kept out of the reach of children and
pets.
 Other relatively low-risk pesticides are available for some pests. Consult
your local cooperative extension service office EXIT for recommendations
suitable for your area.
  Pesticides not contained in baits or traps should generally only be applied
to targeted locations, not sprayed over the whole room.
 Use fogging devices only when absolutely necessary.
 Always read and follow the pesticide label's instructions and safety
warnings.
 Use ready-to-use products (i.e., no mixing needed) whenever possible.
 If you hire any outside persons to help control pests, ask them to find and
correct the source of the problem before applying pesticides.
o For example, you might have to repair a leaky toilet to remove a
water source.
o Ask them to use baits and crack and crevice treatments when
feasible.
 Only apply chemicals approved for use in homes.
o The label will list where the chemical may be used.
o Write down the name and EPA registration number of any chemical
used by someone you hire. You will need this information if you decide to
look up more information on the pesticide.
o The pest control operator should be able to provide information
about the chemical, such as the material safety data sheet.

APPLY FERTILIZER
https://www.almanac.com/content/how-apply-fertilizers-your-garden

HOW AND WHEN DO YOU FERTILIZE YOUR GARDEN PLANTS?

WHAT IS FERTILIZER?
Think of fertilizers as nutritional supplements. Plants need a variety of life-
sustaining nutrients—such as nitrogen and phosphorus—which they take up from the soil.
Many soils contain adequate nutrients for the plants to absorb, but some soils do not, which
is where fertilizers come in.
Fertilizers are plant nutrients that are added to the soil. The plants absorb these essential
nutrients from the soil to improve health, growth, and productivity. Soil nutrient
deficiencies reduce and modify plant growth. You can also tell which nutrients your soil is
lacking by the deficiency symptoms they display, which can range from yellow leaves (lack
of nitrogen) to reduced flowering (lack of phosphorus) to weak stems (lack of potassium) to
blossom-end rot (lack of calcium). 
 Not all soil needs fertilizer. Think about a natural setting where fallen leaves and plants
decompose in place. Nutrients are naturally recycled into the soil and made available to
growing plants. If your soil is rich in nutrients and the microbial life that aids in the plants’
uptake of these nutrients, then adding more can upset that healthy ecosystem. In fact, more
fertilizer is not better! Plants use only the nutrients that they need. To absorb more than are
unnecessary can result in abnormal growth.  
However, many garden soils do need fertilizer, especially if the soil has been cultivated
previously. If you’ve grown and harvested plants in your garden in the past, they have taken
up nutrients from the soil, and those nutrients need to be replaced before more plants are
grown there. This is where fertilizer (organic or processed) plays a role. Fertilizer replaces
lost nutrients, which ensures that soil nutrient levels are at an acceptable level for
healthy growth.

ALWAYS TAKE A SOIL TEST

The only way to truly determine the level of nutrients in your soil is to test it. Soil tests are
usually available for free or low-cost from your local cooperative extension. A soil test is easy
to do and the results guide your fertilizer applications. You may even find that if your
garden has been fertilized for years, you have high levels of nutrients. You do not want to
add nutrients to your soil if it’s already available in high amounts; this may inhibit your
plants’ growth. Read more about how to take a soil test.
HOW TO READ FERTILIZER LABELS
Ever seen those confusing labels on fertilizer bags? The numbers can seem daunting at first,
but once you know what they mean, they tell you exactly what you need to know about
a fertilizer.
A fertilizer label on a package will have three numbers, such as 5-10-10. These numbers
refer to the percentage of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K), the
three nutrients that plants need the most. If you add up the numbers, they are the
percentage of the bag’s total weight (the rest is simply filler to make it easy to handle). There
may also be other nutrients, including calcium, magnesium, iron, and manganese. 
You can find these nutrients in many strengths; they can be processed or organic, and may
come in liquid of granular formulations.
“Complete” fertilizers contain all three nutrients (example, 10-10-10). Sometimes, the
nutrient ratios are important. For example, if you’ve ever experienced lush green growth
without flower blooms, you may have too much nitrogen. You might choose a fertilizer label
with 3-20-20 (low in nitrogen). Alternatively, vegetables planted in cold soil may need extra
phosphorus for root growth; you might choose a fertilizer labeled 10-50-10.
Read more in our article on fertilizer basics and the NPK ratio.
PROCESSED VS. ORGANIC FERTILIZERS
 Processed fertilizers (also called “synthetic” or “chemical” fertilizers) are
manufactured from natural ingredients such as phosphate rock (P) and sodium chloride
(NaCl) and potassium chloride (KCl) salts, but these are refined to be made more
concentrated. Most (but not all) processed fertilizers are quick-release in a water-soluble
form to deliver nutrients quickly to the plant, which can be useful in some situations.
 (There are some processed fertilizers that are coated to slow down the release.)
 
 Organic fertilizers are materials derived from plants that slowly release nutrients
as the micro-organisms in the soil break down. Often applied in granular form (spread
over the soil), most organic nutrients are slow-release, adding organic material to the soil
so that you don’t need to apply it nearly as often. (Plus, they don’t leach into and pollute
waterways, as do many of the synthetic, water-soluble fertilizers, which plants can’t fully
absorb.)  While most organic fertilizers are slow-release products, some release a portion
of their nutrients quickly (examples are animal manure, biosolids, and fish emulsion).
Chemically, the nutrients for processed and organic fertilizers are the same. Ideally, slow is
the way to go. Slow-release granular fertilizers meter out nutrients in a controlled,
“digestible,” and safe manner, as opposed to fast-acting, synthetic, water-soluble fertilizers,
which are, in essence, an overdose. 
In terms of cost: While organic fertilizers can be more expensive upfront than processed
fertilizers, they are often still economical for small gardens. Plus, you don’t need to apply as
often. When you add the long-term benefits to your soil, organic outweighs processed.

WHEN TO FERTILIZE YOUR GARDEN

If you are correcting a soil nutrient deficiency based on a soil test, it’s best to fertilize well
before you plant so that you can work the fertilizer deep into the soil.
Otherwise, fertilize in the spring before planting annual flowers and vegetables and
as growth begins for perennials. Many gardeners use a general-purpose fertilizer at this time
(either an evenly balanced fertilizer or one that’s slightly higher in nitrogen). Incorporate
fertilize into the soil several inches deep for annuals and vegetables. For perennials, work
fertilizer lightly into the soil around the plants. 
Plants need the most nutrients when they are growing most rapidly. This occurs earlier for
spring plantings of lettuce and other greens. Rapid growth occurs midsummer for corn and
squash. Tomatoes and potatoes also will need extra fertilizer (N) mid-season as the plants
takes us nutrients.
For a long-season crop such as corn, many gardeners apply a small amount of fertilizer as a
starter at the time of seeding, and then add a larger amount in early summer, just before the
period of rapid growth. When using organic fertilizers for long-season crops, a single
application is usually adequate because these fertilizers release their nutrients throughout
the season. 
For perennial plants, the timing depends on the plant’s growth cycle. Blueberries, for
example, benefit when fertilizer is applied early in the season at bud break, while June-
bearing strawberries benefit most when fertilized after harvest. 
Ornamental trees, shrubs, and perennials are often fertilized at the beginning of their
growing season as dormancy breaks. 
HOW TO APPLY GRANULAR FERTILIZERS
For the first fertilizer application of the season, apply granular fertilizers by broadcasting
them either by hand or with a spreader over a large area. Or, side-dress the fertilizer
alongside your rows or plants or seeds. All dry fertilizers should be worked or watered into
the top 4 to 6 inches of soil with hoe or spade work after being applied to help the fertilizer
leach down toward the plants’ root zones. If your plants are already growing, cultivate gently
so that you do not damage any roots.
During the growing season, lighter supplemental applications can be made to the top inch of
soil in crop rows and perennial beds and around the drip lines of trees or shrubs. (Read the
label to find out how often applications should be made.)
In general, applying granular fertilizers just before a good rain can be beneficial, as it aids in
working the fertilizer down into the soil where roots can access it.
HOW TO APPLY LIQUID FERTILIZERS
All water-soluble fertilizers are applied by dissolving the product in irrigation water and
then applying it to the leaves of the plant and the soil around the plant.
Don’t apply liquid fertilizer at the exact same time that you plant. No matter how carefully
you remove plants from their containers and place them in the ground, some root hairs will
break. The fertilizer will reach the roots immediately and enter them at the broken points,
“burning” them and causing further die-back.
Many gardeners wait 2 to 3 weeks after planting before fertilizing with liquid solutions; by
then, the newly set-out plants should have recovered from any root damage.
It is important to water plants thoroughly with plain water before applying the liquid
fertilizer to avoid burning the roots if the soil is dry. Also, take care that the fertilizer is
indeed diluted based on instructions, or you could burn the leaves. If you have a watering
system, you can use an injector device to run the fertilizer through the system.
In the case of liquid sprays, it is best to apply them on dry days in either the early morning
or the early evening, when the leaves will have time to absorb the material. Avoid extremely
hot days when foliage is subject to burning.
LEARN MORE ABOUT FERTILIZING YOUR GARDEN
If you have more questions about fertilizers, please ask below, or we encourage gardeners to
call their country’s free cooperative extension office for local advice.
We hope you’ve learned a lot about fertilizers! When is your soil ready to plant in the
spring? See our minimum temperature for seeds to germinate.

WATER CROPS
https://www.worldbank.org/en/topic/water-in-agriculture

https://www.growveg.com/guides/how-to-water-for-better-tasting-crops/

How to Water for Better Tasting Crops

29 July 2016, written by Benedict Vanheems 

Flavorsome crops are something we all aspire to – indeed it’s the main reason many of
us grow our own fruits and vegetables. But did you realize that how you water has a
direct impact on the final taste of your harvests? And that by tweaking your watering you
can transform your produce from bland to delicious?

When it comes to the flavor of our crops, the biggest mistake is to overwater. The taste
of the fruits, leaves and roots we eat comes from the combination of sugars, aroma
compounds and vitamins found within them. Adding too much water dilutes these flavor
components, which in most cases means less tasty produce. Once established, most
vegetables and fruits cope pretty well with dryer conditions, which helps to concentrate
both flavor and nutrients.

How to Water Fruiting Crops

Tree fruits such as peaches and cherries, and fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes and
chili peppers benefit from reduced water levels. Less water means less leaf growth, so
plants are forced to concentrate on fruit production. Roots will reach deeper in search of
moisture, while at the same time accessing minerals that contribute to a more complex
flavor.
At the very least, reducing irrigation just one week before fruits are picked can improve
taste. You could try this with container-grown fruits such as blueberries or strawberries.

Enhance Tomato Taste

Tomatoes taste great with reduced irrigation. The secret is to keep plants well watered
as they establish then reduce watering once the fruits start to ripen.

Begin by applying water generously, about two to three times a week, depending on
your local climate, weather and soil conditions. Then, once the fruits set, significantly
reduce the volume of water you give your plants at each watering. Don’t go so far as to
allow plants to wilt though!

Soils with lots of added organic matter will naturally hold onto soil moisture for longer.
This minimizes the need for more frequent watering, which keeps those all-important
sugars from being diluted. Some growers practice ‘dry farming’ when irrigation is
reduced to an absolute minimum or stopped altogether once the fruits have set. Yields
may be a little smaller, but the flavor is significantly intensified.

How to Water Root Crops

Root crops such as carrots, parsnips and beets all see improved taste levels in dryer
soil. Dry conditions encourage roots deeper into the soil, which has the added bonus of
making them more resilient. As with other crops, watering in the early stages is
important. Water for the first three to four weeks after sowing or planting to ensure
plants establish, then taper irrigation to a minimum.

Leafy Salads and Greens

On the other hand, some crops benefit from plenty of water, which helps to dilute
otherwise excessively spicy or bitter tastes. Naturally hot leaves such as arugula will be
very spicy if they are kept dry. This means you can water more or less, depending on
whether you want your leaves super-hot or a little milder.

Other leafy vegetables and salads should be kept moist so they put on more leafy
growth. The result is softer, more tender leaves with a smooth and succulent texture.

Something as simple as watering can have a really profound effect on taste. If you’ve
tried any of these techniques, please let us know how you got on by popping us a
comment below.
Perform pruning
https://www.ndsu.edu/pubweb/chiwonlee/plsc210/topics/chap14-pruning/pruning.html

TRAINING AND PRUNING

I. TERMINOLOGY

    Training - control of the shape, size and direction of plant growth

        Orientation of the plant in space

 

    Pruning - Judicious removal of plant parts

        Controls shape, size, fruit load

II. PHYSIOLOGICAL RESPONSES

    A. Altered Relationship of Plant Parts

    B. Pruning and Flowering

        Severe Shoot Pruning more vegetative

        Root Pruning encourages flowering (more productive)

        C/N Ratios

            Shoot Pruning lowers C/N ratio (vegetative)

            Root Pruning increases C/N ratio (flowers)

    C. Auxin Imbalance
      Apical dominance - Influence of apical bud in inhibiting bud break below
            Central leader - continued apical dominance
            Water sprouts - strong apical dominance
                                  (very high in Auxin level)
 
 

      Branch Angle - Controlled by Auxin produced in apical buds

        - Wide angle branches below auxin-producing apex
        - Narrow angle branches after apex removal

III. PRUNING TECHNIQUES

    A. Heading Back and Thinning Out
        Heading back - cutting back the terminal portion of branch to a bud
        Thinning out - complete removal of a branch to a lateral or main trunk
 
 
    B. Herbaceous
        Pinching - Heading back actively growing shoot tips

        Deshooting - Thinning out of growing woody shoots

 
 

    C. Timing of Pruning (i.e. fruit trees)

        Dormant Pruning - Winter pruning
        - Generally done after peak cold period is past
        - plant framework readily visible when defoliated
        - minimum loss of translocated foods
        Summer Pruning
        - made on new growth
        - can avoid structural faults before growth is wasted
        - removes diseased branches in time

IV. OBJECTIVES OF PRUNING

    A. To Control Size
        Mowing grasses, clipping hedges, pruning shrubs
        Pruning fruit trees - more manageable for harvesting and spraying
            i.e. Apple - Dwarfing by graft (Malling #9)
            Hedging densely planted trees
 

        Removal of buds, flowers, fruit = thinning to increase size of remaining

fruits (grapes, apple)

        Disbudding - remaining buds produce large flowers

    B. To Control Form

        - wide-angle branching is desirable
            (for fruit load, minimizes wind damage)
 
 

        - scaffold branches evenly spaced and oriented

            (for maximum light entry, disease control, spraying)

        - pruning for mechanical harvesting

            (grapes, apple, jojoba, etc.)
    C. To Enhance Performance
        - Root and shoot pruning to reduce transplanting shock
        - Pinching to time flower production
            (timing rose for Valentine's Day market)
        - Pruning to increase flower and fruit yield
            (Rose, peach, apple)

V. TRAINING SYSTEMS

    A. Branch Orientation and Leader Training

        - Trained best in the formative years (young age)
 

Natural shape vs. Espalier (shoulder or on

one plane)
round flat (grapes)

 
 
Central leader vs. Open-center (vase
system)
central axis and lateral no central leader
branches
lateral branches

diagonally grow out

              Modified Leader System - Intermediate between central leader and open-

center systems
                Example: pear, apple

     B. Geometry and Planting Systems

        Free standing, off-set, spindle bush, bed, 2 wire trails, palmate, oblique, pillar,
etc. (p.419)
    C. Renewal Pruning
        - Depends on species
        - Rose - flower on current growth (severe dormant pruning)
        - Brambles - fruits on one-year-old canes (apples, pear)
        - Grapes - fruits on current growth of buds developed in previous season
        (use of Geneva Double Curtain System)

 
 
 
 
 Basics of Pruning
1. Pruning is a horticultural and silvicultural practice involving the selective removal
of certain parts of a plant, such as branches, buds, or roots. ...
2. The practice entails targeted removal of diseased, damaged, dead, non-
productive, structurally unsound, or otherwise unwanted tissue from crop and landscape
plants.
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 https://www.finegardening.com/article/pruning-tips-and-techniques

 https://www.dictionary.com/browse/pruning

prune
2

[ proon ]
SHOW IPA
SEE SYNONYMS FOR prune ON THESAURUS.COM

verb (used with object), pruned, prun·ing.

to cut or lop off (twigs, branches, or roots).
 to cut or lop superfluous or undesired twigs, branches, or roots from; trim.
to rid or clear of (anything superfluous or undesirable).
to remove (anything considered superfluous or undesirable).

PERFORM PHYSICAL GROWTH ENHANCING PRACTICES

https://scrogger.com/pages/plant-training-techniques

Plant Training Techniques

Plant Cultivation

Pepper plant in P SCROG

What starts as a closet hobby quite often turns into a labor of love for many people, and for some a career.
But one thing for sure, if your patience gets you through one or two grows, you will probably start seeking
techniques that will improve future crops. Training techniques can substantially improve yield while
dramatically reducing grow space requirements and lighting needs.

MAX YIELD made simple

Training techniques are simple to employ.   
You don't have to be an expert to maximize  yield.  There are an abundance of excellent references on the
internet, but here is a sampling of the most notable techniques:

1. Super Cropping - bending/deforming branches, high stress

2. Lollipopping - removing lower vegetation

3. Topping - cutting plant above top node

4. FIMming - partial pinching of new growth above top node site

5. LST - Low Stress Training, bending but not deforming

6. SOG - "Sea of Green", high plant densities, short veg cycles 

7. ScrOG  - "Screen Of Green" is typically associated with one plant and utilized in conjunction with
other advanced training techniques. Scrogging a plant increases yield and reduces grow space requirements. 

Safety procedures are followed according to Occupational Safety and Health

Standards.
https://www.osha.gov/dsg/topics/agriculturaloperations/