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This will be the source of information for you to acquire knowledge and
skills in this particular competency independently and at your own pace, with
minimum supervision or help from your instructor.
UNIT DESCRIPTOR : This unit covers the knowledge, skills and attitude required
to produce organic fertilizers which include tasks such as
preparing composting area and raw materials and carrying-
out composting activities and finally, harvesting of
fertilizer.
LEARNING OUTCOMES :
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
Learning Objectives:
Selecting Site
Worms are livestock and should be cared for in order that they may be put to
best use. As such, select a site that would be well above the flood level,
shaded, airy and where water and raw materials are easily available. The
temperature should be about 26 degrees Celsius.
Worms are living creatures which need to be cared for and protected. They do
not have skin and die when exposed to direct sunlight. The worm
beds/containers should be shaded where it is airy. Water and raw materials
are necessary and it follows that the project, to be successful should also
include cost. If the water and the raw materials will have to be brought in at
considerable expense, the cost of production would increase and impact on the
viability of the project.
Site Lay-out
The method of housing the worms is site specific and person specific.
Conditions obtaining in one place may not be present in another. As such, the
vermiculturist should decide what is best suited for him and his place.
However, a word of caution at this point is that for first-timers, it is better to
use tried and tested methods before modification and combinations are done.
With more experience and confidence, modifications and combinations may be
instituted. The following are the options for the layout and housing type:
Wormbins/wormbeds may be made of any material available whether
iron bars with plastic lining, old plastic basins, bamboo slats or hollow
blocks. The advantage of wormbins/wormbeds is that they are movable
and can be transferred at will. Care however should be taken that they
are properly protected from direct sunlight, too much water and natural
predators. The substrate is placed in the wormbeds where the worms
feed on them.
Windrows are piles of substrate that are decomposed before feeding
them to the worms. They are usually about 1 meter wide and and at
least 1 meter high and can be any length desired or practicable. They
have also to be covered either by plastic material or any organic material
that will protect the substrate and ultilmately the worms from the
elements and natural predators.
Housing structures are the best options but are also the most expensive
so will be considered when finances permit. However, if there are
Bed Preparation
Prepare the bed by selecting the site that is shaded, free from predators and
near to the water source. Arrange the hollow blocks making a bed of 1m x 3m
and put bamboo stakes to strengthen the bed. Used sacks and nylon net could
be used as matting. Other materials that maybe needed in the stocking of the
bed are:
Water and water sprinklers
Plastic sheets to cover the bed
In preparing the raw materials (substrate), it is helpful to consider the source and quality, the
carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio and the size of the materials.
In sourcing raw materials, care should be taken that one is sure of the quality
of raw materials. If using animal manure, be sure that the animals were not
dewormed as this would also deworm your project. On the other hand, the
plant source should also be free of harmful insecticides, fungicides and
herbicides which may also decimate your worm population.
As previously mentioned, the desired C:N ratio is 70:30. To achieve this, more
than two (2) parts of carbon source with 1 part of nitrogen source. In the rural
setting, one may have the luxury of choosing and formulating the raw materials
for the substrate in which case, the resultant vermicast is of fertilizer quality.
At a higher ratio, the carbon and nitrogen will be locked and not easily
available to the plants. A low ratio will not be able to hold the nitrogen well
and it will volatilize easily.
The smaller the materials being composted, the faster the process. While
shredding is not absolutely necessary, it is a vital factor in speeding up the
process. After gathering the raw materials, mix well and shred. Wet the mixture
so it feels like a damp sponge.
Learning Objectives:
The African night crawlers when sexually mature breed every week
and the resultant cocoon/egg/capsule can produce from 2-10 worms. It was
observed that in six months, 1,000 sexually mature worms could produce
30,000 on the low side. On the high side, it can go up to 120,000.
SUNAS-TESDA Document No.
Date Developed:
Issued by:
June 2015 Page 11 of
Organic Agriculture 18
Production NC II Developed by:
Producing Organic Fertilizer Hope P. Esparagosa
Ronnie T. Galera Revision # 00
One worm divided by 2 equals 1. Only the part where the vital organs
are found will regenerate. The other half will die.
Worms are hard working, unpaid, silent and efficient workers. They
do not demand pay increases nor to form unions. There is no learning curve
for them because they work as soon as they are born. All they ask for are good
working, living and eating conditions. They eat their weight per day.
Farmers use fertilizers to make crops grow and the usual choice is
between organic or inorganic fertilizers. Inorganic fertilizers are factory
produced and store-bought while organic fertilizers are produced through
composting. The use of organic fertilizers is on the rise because people are
becoming aware that organic fertilizers are environment friendly, are safe to
handle, increase the fertility of the land, and produce better tasting fruits and
vegetables. While it is true that organic fertilizers have low amounts of major
plant nutrients, namely nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, they also have
high organic matter content and trace elements that become included as a by-
product in the process.
Place the substrate in containers as airtight as possible or cover it with plastic sheet. This is the
anaerobic process which is to hasten the decomposition. This is composting without air, hence
the name. This stage may last from 1 week depending upon the quantity being processed and the
size of the particles. The substrate is ready for use when the temperature has dropped to ambient
levels and you can see the appearance of white mushrooms.
When the substrate has cooled down, place the substrate in appropriate containers or remove the
plastic sheet in the bed. This next phase is called the aerobic stage or composting with air.
Stocking Earthworms
The rate of producing vermicast is dependent on the stocking density vis-à-vis the amount of
substrate. We have observed that the worms can eat faster if the substrate is not too thick
perhaps because of easier mobility. A depth of about 4-6 inches of substrate at this stage appears
to be ideal. It has been observed that 100 kilos of substrate can be consumed within 30 days by 1
kilo of worms.
Monitoring Compost
Maintain a humidity of 80%. Protect the worms from natural predators. Birds, chickens, frogs,
mice, snakes and even pigs love to eat worms. While ants do not eat worms, they can kill your
population if left unattended. Shade the worms from direct sunlight. Worms have no skin and
can not withstand direct sunlight. Loosen the substrate gently and do not allow it to get
compacted. The constant watering of the beds will compact the substrate. Loosen the beds very
gently when needed taking care not to disturb the worms too much.
Practical Tip for Humidity: Test by squeezing a fistful of substrate. Five to seven drops of water
indicate about 80% humidity. Care should be taken that the substrate is taken from the lower
portion of the bed because the upper portion might already by dry but the lower portion is still
wet.
The earthworms are well mannered and polite. They do not like to live with their poo. They eat
the substrate and deposit their castings on the top. In about 6-8 weeks, the substrate that was
formerly identifiable as grass and leaves becomes transformed into granular earthy material. The
decision to harvest depends on one’s needs.
Practical tip: Compost is ready to use when it is dark brown, crumbly and has an earthy smell.
OPTIONS:
a. Pick the worms by hand and transfer them to a new wormbed. The
vermicompost may be allowed to dry in the shade for a few days and
then sifted if a finer compost is desired.
b. In the shade, pile the vermicompost in such a manner that it looks
like a pyramid. After a day, you can harvest the top part easily
because the worms have gone to the bottom of the pile. When you
reach the bottom of the pile, you can extract the worms manually.
c. Move the contents of the whole bed to one side. Fill the empty half
with new substrate. Allow the worms to move freely to the new food.
Harvest the castings left by the worms.
d. Fill an onion bag with fresh food and bury it in the middle of the
bed. After a week or so, the bag will be filled with worms which you
can empty to a new wormbed. This facilitates the gathering of most
worms.
e. If you are not ready to harvest your vermicompost which is fully
eaten by the worms, place a net on top of the bed and place a 5 cm
layer of fresh substrate on top. You can delay harvesting for about a
week (depending on the volume of worms in the bed) because the
worms will transfer to the new food. At the same time, when you are
ready to harvest, you can first remove the net with the food and you
will see that the worms have mostly transferred here.
If you are in a hurry and need the castings, scrape the top of the bed of the castings
deposited there. You run the danger though of losing the eggs which may be there
and have not yet hatched
Practical tip: To check if it is 30% humidity, place some vermicompost in your hand and
squeeze to form a ball. Open you palm and apply some pressure with the index finger of the
other hand. If the ball breaks easily into two to three parts, that is about 30% humidity. If the
ball crumbles easily, that is less than 30%. If your finger leaves and imprint on the ball and the
ball breaks, that is more than 30%.
Characteristics of Vermicompost
Physical
Physically, the gross appearance of the vermicast is granular. It has been
observed that the bigger worms produce bigger granules. In the intestines of
the worms, the nutrients are ground and mixed. The worm excretes mucus
which coats and binds all these elements together.
This granular character will allow the plants to extract the elements they need,
as they need. It is believed that the vermicast can stay for as long as five years
in the soil. It also will not leach out because of its granular nature. Plants
respond fast to applications of vermicast and within a few days, new shoots
are observed and the leaves turn green.
Vermicompost is cool to the touch and holds three times its weight in water.
As such, the plants need less watering and can withstand longer periods
without water.
Chemical
The pH of vermicast is almost neutral and as such, it also acts to buffer the pH
of the soil to neutral.
Vermicast can be used directly on the plants at any point because it does not
burn the plant. Compost produced traditionally can not be used directly but
has to be aged properly. Vermicast is ready for use as soon as it is produced.
It is virtually impossible to overdose with vermicast.
Microbiological
It is living soil, full of friendly and beneficial microorganisms. These organisms
increase the fertility of the soil and protect the plants. They also awaken the
dormant microorganisms in the soil.
Some studies claim that even where there were pathogens in the substrate, the
resultant vermicast did not produce growth when cultured in the laboratory.
Some studies also claim that the vermicast also has fungicidal action.
Basal
Vermicompost can also be used for basal application. Line the trenches with
vermicompost before you put in the plants. The amount put in depends on the
amount available for use. You can also put this into the pot after you have put
in some soil but before you put in the plant.
Top Dressing
You can use vermicast as top dressing. You can place about 50 gms on top of
the soil in a small 15 cm pot and work in the vermicast into the soil. This
should keep the plants happy for about half the year.
Potting Mix
Vermicompost can also be incorporated into the potting medium. One part
vermicompost plus one part good garden soil and one part carbonized rice
Recordkeeping