Biotech Institute of Cosmetics https://courses.a1.com.

pk

Basic Notes on GLYCERIN EXTRACTS (GLYCERITES)

Naturilica Cosmetics https://a1.com.pk whatsapp :03044591771
Biotech Institute of Cosmetics https://courses.a1.com.pk

GLYCERIN EXTRACTS (GLYCERITES)

Glycerin is an underused menstruum in the herbal world. The sweet taste of glycerin helps to mask
bitterness and other disagreeable flavors. Glycerin is a triatomic alcohol, not a sugar. This means
glycerin does not affect blood sugar levels in healthy people, nor does it cause problems with yeast.
Glycerin is a natural component of triglycerides. Fats and oils are composed of three (tri-) fatty acids
attached to a molecule of glycerin (-glyceride). The body breaks down fats and oils to fatty acids and
glycerin. It reassembles them to make the body’s own fats, or it can metabolize the glycerin and fatty
acids for fuel. The conversion of glycerin to glucose produces only carbon dioxide and water. Glycerin is
moisturizing, and it is frequently used in soaps, lotions, and creams. It is also a preservative, inhibiting
the growth of bacteria and fungi. Because it is sweet, nourishing, and nontoxic, glycerin is the best
menstruum to use in herbal extracts for children or adults who cannot use alcohol. Glycerin is a polar
solvent, but not as polar as water. It does not extract constituents very well unless heat is used during
the extraction process, so it is not a good menstruum to use for heat-sensitive herbs. Glycerin is sticky,
so it’s not as easy to work with as alcohol. When using it as a menstruum, purchase pure vegetable
glycerin that is intended for food use. Glycerin is available from a number of companies that sell bulk
herbs and can easily be found on the internet

Basic Notes on GLYCERIN EXTRACTS (GLYCERITES)

Naturilica Cosmetics https://a1.com.pk whatsapp :03044591771
Biotech Institute of Cosmetics https://courses.a1.com.pk

HOW GLYCERITES ARE MADE

There are a number of ways to make an herbal glycerite. Here are four methods:

Traditional Method

Edward Shook, author of Advanced Treatise in Herbology, was a big advocate of glycerites. He made a
strong decoction or infusion and added an equal amount of glycerin as a preservative. The resulting
mixture is 50% water and 50% glycerin. In our experience, 10% of extracts made this way develop mold
on the top. Increasing the glycerin content to 60% prevents mold growth. You can also add 20% of an
80-proof alcohol to a finished glycerite to improve shelf life of a 50% water/50% glycerin preparation.

Standard Method

Another method for making glycerites is to use the standard method for making syrups, as described
earlier in this chapter. Some of the water will simmer off in this process, so start with 55% glycerin and

Basic Notes on GLYCERIN EXTRACTS (GLYCERITES)

Naturilica Cosmetics https://a1.com.pk whatsapp :03044591771
Biotech Institute of Cosmetics https://courses.a1.com.pk

45% water. Add the herbs to the glycerin–water mixture at a 1:5 ratio. Simmer the herbs for 20–30
minutes, then strain and bottle.

Sealed Simmer Glycerites

Simmering herbs in a pot, even with the lid on, allows many of the volatile oils in the herbs to escape. To
make a sealed simmer glycerite, start with a mixture of 60% glycerin and 40% water. Put the herbs and
menstruum into canning jars at the standard 1:5 ratio. For pint jars add 3.33 ounces of herbs, and for
quart jars add 6.66 ounces of herbs. If the plant material is dense, round these figures up to 4 ounces of
herb for a pint jar and 8 ounces for a quart jar. If the plant material is extremely light and you can’t get
the full amount of herb into the jar, pack it no more than three-quarters full. Cover the plant material
with the glycerin–water mixture, leaving at least ¼ inch of headspace in the jar. Put the canning lid on
the jar and put it into a boiling water bath or steam canner. When the water starts to boil (or the steam
starts to stream out of the steam canner), start timing the extract. Extract the herbs for a minimum of
15 minutes for leaves and flowers and 30 minutes for denser plant materials like barks and roots. Let the
jars cool until they can be safely handled, then strain the contents and bottle them. To use a pressure
canner to make glycerites, process the jars at 5 pounds of pressure for 10 minutes for leaves and
flowers, and for 15 minutes for barks and roots.

Fresh Plant Glycerites

Glycerin will extract essential oils in fresh aromatic herbs such as peppermint and lemon balm. Stuff a
canning jar completely full of the fresh plant material, leaving about 1 inch of headspace. Fill the jar with
a mixture of 70% glycerin and 30% water. Put the canning lid on the jar and seal tightly to prevent the
essential oils from escaping. Put the jar in the canner or a boiling-water bath and process in boiling
water for about 15 minutes. Allow the jar to become cool to the touch before opening and straining out
the herbs. The fragrance and aroma of such extracts are absolutely incredible.

NOTES ABOUT COMMERCIAL GLYCERITES

Alcohol can be used as an intermediate if the active constituents are not water soluble. Some glycerites
are made commercially by making standard alcohol tinctures, then drawing off the alcohol using a
vacuum and gentle heat. Glycerin is added to make a very strong glycerite preparation. Most of the
aromatic qualities of the extract are lost during this process.

Basic Notes on GLYCERIN EXTRACTS (GLYCERITES)

Naturilica Cosmetics https://a1.com.pk whatsapp :03044591771
Biotech Institute of Cosmetics https://courses.a1.com.pk

Basic Notes on GLYCERIN EXTRACTS (GLYCERITES)

Naturilica Cosmetics https://a1.com.pk whatsapp :03044591771
Biotech Institute of Cosmetics https://courses.a1.com.pk

HOW DO PHYTOCHEMICALS DISSOLVE IN GLYCERINE?

1. When making glycerites, or deciding which to buy, it would be ideal to understand which
phytochemical extracts we want from a given plant and why. We may know about the
properties of the plant, but what are the active compounds that provide them and in which part
of the plant are they?
2. After doing research about the actives you are aiming to extract from a chosen plant, you can
look up their solubility in Pubchem, scientific articles and pharmacognosy books. Also, by finding
out which chemical class these compounds belong to you will have an idea of which solvent to
use.
3. With these pieces of information in hand, you can make reasonable choices about which solvent
is better to extract each of the plant’s interesting active compounds.
4. Please remember that a solvent can be anything that dissolves another thing. Water, oil,
glycerine and ethanol are all solvents. Learn more about this in our guide to choosing the best
herbal solvent.
5. Factors affecting solubility
6. The solubility of the phytochemicals in a given solvent depends on many factors such as:
7. The affinity of the active compounds with the solvent
8. The simple rule of “like dissolves like” must be remembered here. Some phytochemicals might
have more affinity with water, ethanol or glycerine, while others will be more easily extracted in
oil.
9. The pH of the solution
10. Some phytochemicals need to be extracted in a defined pH range to ensure they are soluble and
will not be degraded in the process.
11. The temperature of the solvent
12. – Heat might enhance the dissolution of some compounds in the chosen solvent.
– Some compounds might be heat-sensitive, therefore should be cold-processed.
– Not all solvents can be heated. Some are inflammable or can evaporate with heating.
13. This list is not exhaustive, but it is not meant to be as we would have to dive into chemistry to
explain all the possible solubility factors. It is perfectly possible to formulate successfully with
glycerites without being a chemist.

Basic Notes on GLYCERIN EXTRACTS (GLYCERITES)

Naturilica Cosmetics https://a1.com.pk whatsapp :03044591771
Biotech Institute of Cosmetics https://courses.a1.com.pk

COMPOUNDS SOLVENTS MAY EXTRACT

14. Some classes of compounds that can usually be extracted in water and ethanol/glycerine
solvents are:
15. Water
16. Polysaccharides (ex: gums and mucilages)
Phenolic compounds (ex: tannins)
Flavonoids (ex: anthocyanins)
Aldehydes
Ketones
Amines
Oxygen-containing compounds
17. Ethanol/glycerine
18. Sterols
Flavonoids (ex: anthocyanins)
Terpenoids
Phenolic compounds
Alkaloids
Saponins
19. Plants are often extracted with solvent mixtures (commonly ethanol and water), so-called
hydroethanolic solvents, or combinations with glycerine or vinegar. If you come across different
alcohol percentages on extracts’ labels, this is because various solvent mixtures will have a
different overall polarity and will extract a different set of constituents from the plant material.
20. Water infusions with herbs will therefore contain different phytochemicals from that of an oil in
which the same herb has been macerated.
21. Formula Botanica students often ask which extract is better – oil-based, water-based or
glycerine-based – but this question cannot be answered easily as it depends on the herb, the
solvent, the solubility of the herbs’ constituents and all the other factors mentioned above as
well as the purpose of the formulation in which you wish to use the macerate.

GUIDE TO MAKING YOUR OWN GLYCERITES

22. Earlier, we said that we recommend buying glycerites from reputable suppliers if you intend to
include them in comsetics you wish to sell. But, we know that it can be rewarding and fun to
make glycerites especially if you love natural, botanical ingredients and even grow plants that
have properties ideal for extracting into glycerine.
23. Here, we give you a brief step-by-step guide to the basics of making your own glycerites. There
is a lot to explore, so we recommend you do more research if you wish to take making glycerites
further.
24. Fresh food glycerite ideas: cucumbers, strawberries, blueberries, pomegranate, papaya, red
beets, lemons etc.
25. Herb ideas for glycerites: mallow flowers, calendula, hibiscus, rosebuds, lavender, chamomile,
dandelions, elderflowers, ginger and hawthorn. Feel free to experiment.

Basic Notes on GLYCERIN EXTRACTS (GLYCERITES)

Naturilica Cosmetics https://a1.com.pk whatsapp :03044591771
Biotech Institute of Cosmetics https://courses.a1.com.pk

STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO MAKING YOUR OWN GLYCERITES

26. Prepare your working space. It should be clean and sanitised.

27. Prepare your jars, mason jars or other glass containers that must be clean and sanitised too. You
can put them in the oven at any of the following temperatures and times (first having removed
the insulating rubber bands):150ºC for 150 min; 160ºC for 120 min; or 170 ºC for 60 min.
28. Get your herbs, plants or fruit ready. Clean and dry any outer peels and skins of fruits and
vegetables thoroughly. Then, cut the botanical material into smaller pieces. For example, peel
the pomegranate and get the grains out or peel or cut the cucumbers into smaller chunks. Use
organic and pesticide-free fruits of good quality.
29. Do not mix more than one type of botanical in a single glycerite.
30. Dried herbs should be rehydrated with a small amount of distilled water.
31. Resinous and mucilaginous materials are not suitable (ie. frankincense resin, chia or flax seeds).
32. Weigh your ingredients and fill the jar: Up to 30 percent of raw material (or fresh herbs, or
rehydrated dry herbs) and 70 percent of glycerine. Always label the container with the contents
and date. Shake it.
33. Leave it to infuse for 1-2 weeks shaking every so often then strain through a sieve lined with
muslin or cheesecloth. Ensure that the sieve and filtration cloth are ultra clean; bear in mind this
is a DIY method of making glycerites. A professional-standard, vacuum filtration method would
be needed for making any glycerite aimed at commercial use. However, this equipment can be
costly. Also, make sure there is no residue of botanical material in the strained glycerite.
34. The shelf life is between 12-24 months. Keep your glycerite in a closed container, in a dark and
cool place. Remember that a verified shelf life can only be determined through proper stability
testing.

USES AND APPLICATIONS OF GLYCERITES

Glycerites are great for children, alcoholics, people whose religious beliefs prohibit the use of alcohol,
and people who dislike the taste of alcohol tinctures. We have never seen a glycerite go bad as long as
the glycerin content was well above 50% and the product was stored in a cool, dark place. Done
properly, glycerites have a shelf life of at least 3 years. Some people refrigerate glycerites just to be safe.
Glycerin isn’t as strong of a solvent as alcohol. Whereas the dose of tinctures is usually measured in
drops, glycerites are taken in teaspoons. Glycerin is more expensive than alcohol, and the large dose
makes glycerites more expensive per dose than alcohol tinctures.

Basic Notes on GLYCERIN EXTRACTS (GLYCERITES)

Naturilica Cosmetics https://a1.com.pk whatsapp :03044591771
Biotech Institute of Cosmetics https://courses.a1.com.pk

TIPS ON USING GLYCERITES IN SKINCARE

Glycerites can be a great addition to your water-containing formulations. Basically, you can replace
glycerine with glycerites.

You can mix them with gums, for example, to thicken the product. If buying ready-made glycerites,
check if they contain additional water because any extra water can cause your gum to clump. Gums
blend better with pure glycerine.

Think also about the rationale of adding glycerites to rinse-off products in which they would be in
contact with the skin for a very short time.

You can incorporate glycerites easily into emulsions at 2-5 percent and usually in the cool-down phase.
They give your formulation the benefit of a humectant and boost it with an interesting herbal or fruit
extract. The extra value will depend on the plant matter that was extracted and the compounds that will
reach the skin through the medium of the glycerite.

At very low percentages, the glycerite is unlikely to cause intense colour change of emulsions. They can
have an effect on the colour in gels though.

We always recommend performing stability testing on your product to see whether the colour and scent
stay the same.

You may wish to add glycerites to anhydrous products. In this case, a tiny amount could blend in quite
well, but consider the hygroscopic nature of glycerine: it absorbs water from the environment. An
anhydrous product containing glycerine that is left open in a humid bathroom would attract moisture
and consequently would end up as a bacteria feast if no preservative were added.

When buying glycerites that contain water and preservatives, check which preservative(s). You may find
some preservatives, such as Leucidal liquid, are cationic and as such they may interfere with Xanthan
gum or other anionic ingredients added to the formula.

We hope this guide to using glycerites in skincare has given you some insights into how to formulate
with glycerites. As you can see, there is plenty to learn about the extraction of phytochemicals into
solvents, of which glycerine is one option. We encourage you to research further so you can use
glycerites in skincare to best effect.

Basic Notes on GLYCERIN EXTRACTS (GLYCERITES)

Naturilica Cosmetics https://a1.com.pk whatsapp :03044591771