ELEMENTS OF DESIGN, PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN, COLOR THEORY

1.1. ELEMENTS OF DESIGNING

The language of design is broken into elements and principles. The element and principles of
design are flexible and should be interpreted within the context of current fashion. The
elements are the raw materials that must be combined successfully. The following are the
different elements of designing:-

o Line

o Dots

o Shape

o Form

o Texture and

o Color

1.1.1. LINE

Line is an elongated mark, the connection between two points. Line refers to the edge or
the outline of a garment and the style lines that divide the space within a garment. The
following are the line types:-

o Straight line

o Curved line

o Jagged line or zigzag lines

1.1.1.1. LINE TYPES

• STRAIGHT LINE:-

All garments have some straight lines in them. They are created in dress by seams, darts,
hems or garment edges, pleats, trims, tucks and panels. They create a feeling of elegancy,
bold and powerful effects in a garment. When more straight lines are used in dress, they can
give a stiff look.

• CURVED LINE :-
These lines can be rounded and circular termed as full curve or flattened out called as
restrained curve. They also increase the size and shape of the figure, they add interest and
smoothness.

• Full Curve: - Emphasizes body curves. In dress, full curves are introduced
through seams, garments edges and scalloped edges.

• Restrained Curve: - These curves slightly emphasize curves of the body. Yet
the give soft, gentle, feminine and graceful effects. These are introduced in
the dress by seams, garment edges, princess lines, trims, gathers, draping and
fabric pattern.

• JAGGED LINES :-

These lines have shape points like zigzags, which change the direction suddenly due to their
points. When they are used more than required these jagged lines can create a feeling of
confusion in dress. As they are very noticeable, they should be used carefully. These are
mostly used in decorative fabric patterns and trims.

1.1.1.2 LINE DIRECTION

According to the direction, lines maybe the following, they are:-

• Vertical line: -

These lead the eye up and down. They give the impression of added height and slimness. If
worn by a thin person, it makes the person look even taller and thinner. Vertical lines are
found in shirt front, princess lines, center back seam, darts, pleats, tucks and in fabric
pattern.

• Horizontal line: -

These lines will direct the viewer across or parallel in the garment, emphasizing its width at
that point. They give the impression of less height and more width. They make the wearer
look shorter and wider. Horizontal lines are found at the waistlines, hemlines, wide
necklines, sleeves, collars, panels and in belts.

• Diagonal Lines:-

These lines are the slanting line they suggest a feeling of movement or direction. Diagonal
lines are strong and draw attention to the area. Their degrees of have a vertical slant they
give slenderness feeling and if they are horizontally slant them add width. These lines are
found generally in panels, seams, darts, ‘V’ necklines, and collars, flared trousers ‘A’ line
skirts, bias cut strips and raglan sleeves.

1.1.1.3 APPLICATION OF LINES IN GARMENTS

Lines are incorporated into clothing in two basic ways, they are:-

 Structural Lines:-

They are most noticeable if the fabric of the garment is plain. They can be introduced
through constructional lines like seams, darts, fitting tucks and shirring. It is also introduced
by recognized in the edges of the garment parts like the outer edge of collars, sleeves, belts,
hems, pockets etc.

 Decorative Lines :-

They are created by adding details to the surface of the clothing. They are added simply to
decorate the garment and make it more appealing and attractive. They add style and
personality. They can be formed by adding rows of buttons, topstitching, braids, piping bias
binding lace edging; ruffles etc. fabric pattern lines such as strips, plaids, herringbones,
checks etc. also add lines decoratively.

1.1.2 DOTS

It is also known as point, it can conceive various meaning for it and seek some kind of
relationship or order rather than relating it to the outline of the page. Dot is an element that
has position, but no extension. It is a single mark in space, but limited location. Alone it can
provide a powerful relation between negative and positive space, but when grouped with
other points the grouping principal of closure. Line or form is a natural result of multiple
points in space.

When used freely and in different size they create a variety. Short figure person should
avoid using bold, big dots as it might create an illusion that they are too short. Polka dots, is
the term widely used in textile industry.

1.1.3. SHAPES

The outer dimensions or contour of an object, shape also encloses space and imparts certain
character to the object viewed. Through clothing design, the shape of the human body is
often revealed in a natural way, but sometimes even distorted. The shape of the clothing in
a human body communicates silently the massages about wearer. A shape emerges slowly
or evolved suddenly, every period has a specific shape of garment which once determined
can be modified and re-styled for variation in design without changing the basic shape of
the garment is easily accepted.

1.1.3.1. BASIC SHAPES

Shape and form are extremely important in apparel and accessory design. The silhouette is
the outline of the entire costume and is often spoken of as its “form”. In dress designing
there are seven basic shapes for each season adaptations they are the following:-

o Rectangle

o Triangle

o Inverted Triangle

o Oval

o Square

o Round

o Hourglass

o Combinations

• Rectangle:-

Styles with these lines are slenderizing and suitable for the well-proportioned, heavy set
women. Eg:- Long , straight, hanging in loose graceful folds such as in Greek and Roman
styles, tailored suits

• Triangle:-

Examples: Spanish styles. Fitted bodice, bell shaped gently widening skirt.

• Inverted Triangle:-

Example: wide shoulders, narrow skirt, raglan sleeves. Good fashion design style for large
bust.

• Oval :-

Example: draped and softly molded, very feminine and decorative. Good for well
proportioned, ideal figure, suitable especially for afternoon and evening wear.
 • Square:-

Example: straight or boat shaped neckline, boxy jackets, caps. Generally this style is very
good for very thin figures, however with proportions well planned and good design, can
camouflage various figure irregularities.

• Round:-

Example: wide, petal shapes, puffed sleeves, suitable for formal wear or afternoon frocks.
This fashion design is the most attractive on the very young and the very thin figure.

• Combination:-

Example: outline of any current fashion silhouette can be altered and combined with
another, and adapted for the specific figure type. Thus irregularities or lack of ideal figure
proportions can be minimized while the general effect of current fashion design style is
preserved.

1.1.4. FORM

It is object having three dimensions like length, width and depth. The human body is a form
and by viewing it analytically, it various perspectives are revealed. The human form changes
visually with clothing, especially as fashion changes. Shape and form are extremely
important in apparel and accessory design. The shape of the silhouette usually complements
the shape of the body.

1.1.5. TEXTURE

Texture is the element of design that describes surface appearance and feel. It means the
appearance of the fabric. Texture is a sensory feeling understood by sight as well as by
touch. It is quality of roughness or smoothness, dullness or glossiness, stiffness or softness.

There are two types of texture:- structural texture, which is created when fabrics garments
are manufactured, and added visual texture, which come when a design is printed onto the
fabric surface. There are various components like fibers, yarns, fabrics and finishes that
determine texture.

1.1.5.1. DETERMINANTS OF TEXTURE

• FIBERS: They are hairline strands that are made into yarns. Fibers of wool produce
soft textures while that of linen produce a crisp texture. The short fuzzy fibers of
cotton will produce a dull appearance due the fuzz. The smooth and long filaments
like silk fibers and synthetic fibers make fabrics that are shiny, smooth and cool
touch fabrics.
 • YARN: They are made from fibers when they are twisted together. A yarn which has
a low twist will produce a shiny texture because the natural gloss of fiber is not lost
in the twist where as a highly twisted yarn on the other hand will give a rough
texture since the fiber gloss gets lost in the twist. Yarns that are looped or coiled in
manufacture of yarn produce stretch fabrics.

• FABRIC: It is constructed either by weaving, knitting, felting, bonding, crocheting or

braiding techniques. Often this construction of the fabric determines the texture. A
satin weave of loosely twisted yarns produces shinny textures whereas knits absorb
light and are dull textured.

• FINISH: it is given to fabric after it is constructed. It can impact or change the

texture. Some finishes like sizing gives stiffness, adds shine and watermark design to
the fabric, calendaring gives shine to the fabric, singeing makes the surface smooth
and napping makes the fabric fuzzy.

1.2. PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN

Principles of design are guidelines for the proper use of the elements of design, in order to
arrange the elements of designs, well application of principles. The following principles of
designs are:-

o Balance

o Emphasis

o Harmony

o Proportion

o Rhythm

• BALANCE

Balance in fashion design can be achieved with the use of features such as seams, hemlines,
and necklines.

• Symmetrical balance can be described as having equal "weight" on equal sides. It

may also be referred to as formal balance. For example, a straight hemline has
symmetrical balance. Most clothing is created with symmetrical balance.
 • Asymmetrical balance also called informal balance is more complex and difficult to
envisage. It involves placement of objects in a way that will allow objects of varying
visual weight to balance one another around a point. This can be best imagined by
envisioning a literal balance scale that can represent the visual "weights" that can be
imagined in a two dimensional composition. For example, a skirt that has a
deliberately jagged, uneven hemline has asymmetrical balance. Balance in fashion
follows trends.

• PROPORTION

Size and scale are important aspects of proportion. Proportion means the size of a part in
relation to the size of the whole. It would be unusual to have sleeves which are bigger than
the whole outfit. Proportion in fashion design is the principle that says various components
of a garment or accessory look good together (i.e. with balanced size and scale). To be
pleasing, most fashions are made with balanced proportions to bring out the natural shape
of the body.

When choosing outfits, proportion is important when dressing to try to achieve certain
effects, and many fashion tips are based on this design principle. For example, a short
person (who wants to look taller) would avoid wide, baggy pants. A tall person (who wants
to look shorter) would avoid very long, skinny jeans.

• RHYTHM

Humans’ eyes are designed to move. Rhythm is a fashion principle that invites the
observer’s eye to move over a garment. The following techniques create rhythm:

o Repetition – repeating lines, shapes, colors, or textures.

o Gradation – increasing or decreasing lines, shapes, colors, or textures.
o Radiation – creating lines or colors emerging from a center, like petals on a flower.

• EMPHASIS

Emphasis means the interest is concentrated in a particular part or area of a design.

Emphasis in clothing may be achieved with contrasts of colors or textures, lines, or unusual
shapes.

• HARMONY

Harmony depends a lot on personal taste. Harmony means that there is pleasing visual
unity of all aspects of a design. It is a summary of all of the other elements and principles of
design. It means that all parts of the design look as if they belong. There is no excess
variation that could displease or detract from appreciating the entire design or look.