"ओळख हर वलेले वेशीचे पहारे कर "

Boundary
Guardians of the Boundary and their Lost Identity
Tracing the Identity of Sion and Riwa Fort, Mumbai

By -
Mayur Thakare
Circle Officer
Competent Authority Office (For Archaeological Survey of India, Mumbai Circle)
Ministry of Culture
Government of India
St. George Fort, St. George Hospital Campus, Near C.S.T
Mumbai - 400 001

Article First Appeared on 14th July 2012

Note - This is a popular article written with a view to trace the origin of defensive structures at Sion
and Dharavi, Mumbai, their original identity and nomenclature as it existed from their existence
and which in due course of time has been forgotten and confused. I am thankful to Archaeological
Survey of India, Mumbai Circle, a custodian of Sion fort, a Nationally Protected Monument of
Archaeological Survey of India and its staff for their time to time kind assistance and help. Since
the subject matter is also a part of Ph.d research, "Archaeology of European Expansion/Colonial
Archaeology in India, with a case study of North Konkan (1498 - 1818 AD), I was indeed happy to
get positive results on the real identity of defensive structures at Sion and Dharavi, Mumbai. All the
images and maps are given at the end of the article. I am thankful to Lachlan and Elizabeth
Macquarie Archive, Macquarie University, Australia for publishing the beautiful paintings of James
Wales from his posthumous work “Twelve views of the island of Bombay and its vicinity: Taken
in the years of 1791 – 1792” on their website http://www.lib.mq.edu.au and making it available to
people. As the condition of most of the British maps on Bombay available in the Department of
Archives, Government of Maharashtra is not good either for scan or xerox, I have limited myself
for re-producing excellent maps given the "The Gazetteer of the Bombay City and Island - Vol. I,
II and III" originally published in 1909 AD. If anyone would like to use the photos, maps or refer
this article then necessary citation may given.

M.T. [14/7/2012] 1
‘Archaeological Survey of India, Mumbai Circle, Sion Fort, Sion (East), Mumbai – 400 001’, that
was the address for which I left Deccan College Post-Graduate and Research Institute, Pune, a
home for me for two and half years. My friends, Shri. Gopal Joge (Lecturer for Indian Art, Deccan
College, Pune) and Shri. Rahul Mhaiskar (Lecturer, Linguistics Department, Deccan College,
Pune) came with me to Pune Railway station. Due to some problems in Gopal’s bike, I missed my
train, Sinhgad Express, which was to reach Mumbai by 9.53 AM. Hurriedly, remembering the
time given by the Superintending Archaeologist, Archaeological Survey of India, Mumbai Circle,
10.30 AM, I and Gopal headed fast to bus stand at Shivaji Nagar, Pune and after waiting there for
20 minutes and thorough a large crowd, I managed to board inside the a bus to Mumbai. Seeing
bus leaving the stand, Gopal waved his hand and I too. Getting some sigh of relief, I came out
from the world of probable possibilities to the world of reality and felt the fresh morning air
breezing through the bus window. I was trying my best to get adapted to the new thought called
“Mumbai”. Throughout the journey, ‘Sion Fort’ was the place for which my mind was running
more faster than the bus!
I remember very well the first time I scaled the artificial rampart of Sion hill in Sion (East)
with my heavy luggage to reach the Mumbai Circle office of Archaeological Survey of India.
Though I had heard and read about Sion fort but never had chance to visit it and the moment
when I reached the Mumbai Circle office, the big semi-circular name slab of Archaeological
Survey of India, Mumbai Circle greeted me with two cannons placed on its both sides. I felt like I
reached the fort and my eyes started searching the very common connotation behind the word
‘fort’ by which any usual person mean something grand and majestic structure with giant doors,
sturdy bastions, impenetrable fortifications, staring merlons and embrasures, big stables where
thundering whinnies of horses and trumpets of elephants and much more can be imagined or felt
and to my surprise it was nothing of that sort. Instead, in front was a spacious and quiet Mumbai
Circle office of Archaeological Survey of India, Puratattva Bhavan, of which premises’ deep silence
surprised me, considering its location on one of the busiest places and streets in Mumbai! Chores
in the office were going usual and I too, being it's my first step in the professional life after my
academic years, was feeling rather a mixed feeling of subjugation to the muteness of its premises
and a happy moment for experiencing every seconds of the thrill to work in Indian government’s
premier organization responsible for the protection, maintenance of India’s precious cultural
heritage and research in archaeology. Soon, when I was standing before the cabin of

M.T. [14/7/2012] 2
Superintending Archaeologist of Mumbai Circle waiting to meet him, again the thought about the
fort whispered in my mind but right at the moment, voice of the attendant rang in my ear, “sahab
aapko andar bula rahe hein (sir is calling you inside) and with somewhat anxiety I entered inside
the deluxe cabin of the Superintending Archaeologist, the head of the Mumbai Circle, spread over
11 districts of Konkan and western Maharashtra (Thane, Mumbai Sub-Urban, Mumbai, Raigad,
Ratnagiri, Sindhudurg, Pune, Satara, Sangli, Solapur and Kolhapur) and responsible for
maintaining 117 nationally protected monuments under it. While I was trying my level best to be
careful about each and every manner while meeting such senior officer, a very gentle and sober
voice welcomed me inside and that was my first in-detail conversation with a coolheaded energetic
man with simplicity, Shri. Madan Singh Chouhan, Superintending Archaeologist of Archaeological
Survey of India, Mumbai Circle. Finally, the very big question before me was laid to the rest and I
was happy and eager to work with Mumbai Circle under the shadow of Sion fort !
First day ended and by late evening everyone in office left (excluding some Mumbai Sub-
Circle office personals) except some attendants on the night duty. As my arrangement for the stay
was made in the Mumbai Circle campus, again, the question about the fort came in my mind.
Letting it to rest for some time, I thought to take some stroll around the busy Sion street. When I
came out of the premises of the Sion fort, again, through my readings, I remembered one premise
called ‘Riwa fort’ mentioned nearby Sion in old British documents and I thought to enquire about
it. I call back now strange expressions of localities’ while I was asking “Bhaiyya, yaha Riwa killa
kaha pe hein?” “Bhau, ithe Riwa killa kuthe aahe?” (Brother, where is the Riwa fort?). To my
dismay no one told me anything about it and by surprise, some elderly men even told me to verify
the location, place and even the site which I was asking about. Facing this reply, I felt that it’s better
not to inquire more about this place and to continue locating these sites after some time. New as I
was to the place, I thought it may be my mistake to ask about the place to localities’ which even
does not exist and may exist somewhere else! Shockingly same thought came about the Sion fort
too that it’s also may not be in the place which I thought about and might have named after the
extinct fort at the site!
After dinner, I was about to enter the office premises when the question which I had suppressed
much throughout the day considering my first day in the Circle office, rowed back in my mouth. I
asked the security guard, “bhai, yaha Sion killa kahape hein ? Upar to kuch dikhta hi nahi ?”
(Brother, where is the Sion fort ? atop, nothing can be seen ?). Guard smiled and replied back,

M.T. [14/7/2012] 3
“sahab, office ke bhi upar hein aur baju ke garden se jana padta hein. Aur bahut chhota hein sirf
ek ghar jaisa dikhta hein” (Sir, fort is at the top. You have to go from the garden beside. It is very
small and looks like a house). After listening it, I thought, may be because his ignorance or lack of
information, he is telling me this and once again curiosity about the fort rose. I asked him whether
he can take me to the fort right the moment (9.30 PM that was) and he told me that main gate at
the Jawaharlal Nehru Garden is closed and the pathway which goes behind the Superintending
Archaeologist’s office is not safe as it is through dense bushes, a favorite place for snakes and
scorpions in night. The topic of Sion fort ended there only.
Saturday came. In the morning, I went to the fort alone via garden gate. One after another
teenage couples and young boys and girls who were sitting under bushes, hedges and trees stared
me as like I was disturbing their privacy! Clearing the way out, I reached the staircases which lead
me to the ‘fort’. When I saw the fort from the downstairs, I suddenly remembered the words of
security guard, “killa chhote ghar jaise dikhta hein” (Image – 1). Though I read about it, again
question popped up before me, is it a real Sion fort about which I thought? I came closer to the
fort and saw a deep and big square shaped water tank on east of fort (image – 2) without the source
of natural water beneath which clearly indicated that it meant for water storage through monsoon
rains or other means and parapet wall enclosing it with small embrasures (Image – 3). Beside the
parapet wall, some people were sleeping. I peeped through the merlons and looked from the
parapet below and encountered a heavy rustic cannon lying near the north-east corner of parapet
wall. The fortification seemed to be following natural outline of the small Sion hillock barely 249
feet in height. Inside the parapet wall, was a round bastion (Image – 4) on the north-east outline of
the hillock followed by guard house looking like structure with sloping roof which might have had
covered with manglorean tiles of Portuguese style. From this point, a view of complete fort could
be seen (Image – 5). After climbing steps, I reached one room, inside which was present three
ovens looking like components abutting its north wall (Image – 6). I felt like it might have served
the purpose of kitchen for the fort garrison. At the ground level on the north side were five rooms,
two on the right hand side and three on the left side and between both of them, a flight of stair case
which leads above (Image – 7). As I went inside ground rooms, a murky smell of urine ran through
my nose and while I was snubbing it, one boy seating and studying under the shadow of one big
tree sprang near the north-west fortification smiled like he is acquainted with it and I being the first
time visitor feeling disgust about it. Anyway, I went up the fort and saw big six rooms with window

M.T. [14/7/2012] 4
and doors and a row of three rooms facing it horizontally on the southern side, parapet wall
enclosing it from western side with the overall width of 80 to 100 cm (Image – 8). Seeing the
dimensions of rooms, it was giving impression like residential cum guard room structure instead of
only guard room structure. On the top of hill too, parapet wall on the western and south-western
direction enclosed the whole complex (Image – 9). On south direction, a stair cases lead me down.
This entire south-east and south-west side seemed to have had fortified in the past but which is
collapsed now and no more visible except of some remains to be traced by trained eyes (Image –
10). Down the hill too, facing the modern concrete falls built by the BMC, I noticed structure
hidden inside vegetation and above which steep rising scraps were fortified with stone and lime
mortar. I started clicking photographs. Barely few photographs clicked, two persons wearing khaki
paint and formal short shouted standing near the artificial fall, ‘Kon aahe? Kuthle photo kadhtay?’
(Who are you and which photos are you clicking?). I was so much engrossed in the thinking of the
fort and surrounding area that little I realized about such commotion and when those people were
very near to approach me, ASI security guard settling his skull cap and rubbing his sweat on the
face shouted on those persons waiving his hand from the top fort, “Arre bhai, ye isi department ke
hein aur yaha naye aaye hein” (Brother, he is from the department. He is new here). After listening
it, those two persons came to me and apologized. Later I came to know that they were BMC
security guards for Jawahrlal Nehre Garden. Forgetting the incident, again my thoughts occupied
with the very concept of Mumbai islands and its present condition. From the fort, a beautiful view
of Trombay facing the Thane creek in the north-east (Image- 11), Mahim creek with Bandra,
Mahim and backwater area of Dharavi on the western side (Image – 12) and twin hills of Kurla till
the further land north of erstwhile Salsette island was visible. Further south was Varli and Colaba
(Image – 13). North, south, east and west, I was groping amidst the concrete jungle from the top of
Sion fort to guess about the existence of Bombay fort, Mazgaon fort, Dongri fort, Varli fort,
Mahim fort, Bandra fort and Riwa fort and was trying restlessly to imagine about the topography of
Bombay and Salsette island as it existed till 15th century when Mumbai was yet a group of seven
islands (Map - 1) of which north side was the Salsette island, again divided into small islets in itself.
When I was placing my vision as much distant I can, I noticed one big black watch-tower like
structure hidden under thick vegetation (Image – 14) on the front low lying western hill with one
big water pond at the foot hill of it, a view of which is marred by tall buildings constructed on the
western side of Sion hill. Without wasting time and taking cue from my readings, I realized that it

M.T. [14/7/2012] 5
this same watch tower which was a part of the Sion fort and mention of which, we get in the British
documents. I sat on the most heighted part of the Sion fort. A scenic view in all directions with a
swift breeze was driving me towards the meditative thinking. “Where is the Riwa fort then?” I
asked question to myself. It was sure that the lonely bastion looking watch tower was not Riwa fort.
I decided to talk and investigate in detail with local people. After thoroughly foraging through the
Sion fort and its surroundings for couple of hours, I decided to venture into the premises of lonely
watch tower. I came down from the Sion fort and took the street which takes us straight towards
Aparna Bar. Crossing the heavy traffic, behind the bus and auto stop opposite the Sion bus stop,
my eyes stilled on old boundary wall which ran quite long and circular towards Chunabhatti.
Following the cue, I went straight towards Chunabhatti and saw a big water pond/reservoir near
Ramanugraha temple which was unclearly visible from the top of the fort (Image – 15). Standing
near the shop just opposite the tank, I enquired local residents about the tank’s historicity and
promptly reply came from the many ‘far juna aahe, Shivkalin aahe ha talav (Its very old, it’s from
Shivaji’s time)” besides an inquiry, ‘tumhi kuthche?’ (Where are you from?). After satisfying there
queries and genuineness of my purpose, I went inside the boundary wall to encounter a gate and a
flight of steps which takes us up on the small hill (Image – 16, 17). Again I circumambulate around
the boundary wall and went up straight on the hill from the entrance to Aayurveda Mahavidyalaya
which opens near Sion Railway station. On the hill, I found this lonely and mysterious tall round
structure in solid stone masonry for which small approach steps are cut in the rock (Image – 18). A
sense of joy roamed throughout my body. This structure is completely covered by trees and bushes
and to my surprise, not even a single step is provided to reach its top. In old days, this lone bastion
must have been climbed by soldiers with the help of a ladder. This place commands the view of
Sion fort on the east (Image – 19 and 20 – Google Earth Image), Riwa, Bandra, Mahim on the
west and Varli and Bombay forts and surrounding regions on the south and Kurla on the north.
After recording and documenting it, I came down to search my third destination, Riwa fort. In an
open stall near the entrance of Aayurveda Mahavidyalaya, I thought to feed myself with the
Mumbai’ ultimate and all time favorite food, Vada Pav! Munching well fried, hot and delicious
Vada Pav, I asked the vendor about the road for Dharavi. “Straight jao. Chauk cross karne ke bad
Dharavi lag jayega. Aage bahot sari leather ki dukan hein” (Go straight, cross the square and
Dharavi will start. May leather shops are there)”. I took the street and crossed the heavy traffic.
For next half hour, I was enquiring about Riwa fort in the confusing streets and lanes of Dharavi.

M.T. [14/7/2012] 6
No one answered and some were clueless. Again I felt like I am shooting arrow in dark! Finally I
surrendered myself before one old lady who was selling fishes there. “Mavashi, ithe kuthe killa
aahe he ka? (Aunty is there any fort here?)”. She looked curiously towards me and pointed her
finger towards one narrow lane with one board “Kala Killa Ravivashi Samiti” and told me, “Ya
gallitun saral ja. Gallichya shevti tula killa disel (Go straight from that lane. You will see fort at the
end).” I couldn’t control my pleasure after getting the fort’s location. I thanked her and before
leaving, I asked, “Mavashi, ithe khup jast lokana killya baddal mahit nahi, as ka?” (Aunty, very few
people know about fort in this area. Why?). “Arre baba, navya porana tyachyabaddal kahi vatat
nahi and lok tyachya aaju bajula ghar karun rahilit kittek warsha pasun. Lok visarat challi tyala.
Gharanmadhe laplay to. Ithlya junya tevdha to changla mahit hota. Pehle khadich pani killya
paryant yayach. Kadhi kadhi tujhya sarkhe kahi lok shodhat killyala yetat ikade” (Son, new
generation is not much interested in it. Many families have settled around the fort over the years.
People are forgetting about it. It is hidden behind houses. Old people knew about it very well.
Earlier, bay’s water used to come near the fort. Sometime people like you come searching to see
this fort). In simple sentences, a pathetic condition of Mumbai’s precious heritage stood before
me. I entered the lane and I saw for the first time inner Dharavi. In small one or two rooms,
people were living. Children were playing outside on the road. Cars, vehicles were parked on both
side of the road making it narrower. All daily chores like washing clothes, utensils were done on
the road only, outside of each house. Some group of ladies was chatting outside their houses. An
outsider like me was felling surprise about how they manage to live in such a small place but
Mumbai’s socio-economic equations made me to realize the declining standards of living and their
daily struggle for existence in this crowded city. Finally I reached the end of lane. At the end, near
common toilet, I saw one very small ‘fort’, completely surrounded by houses (Image – 21, 22 and
23). Really no one would even guess about the existence of ‘fort’ while standing at the front of lane.
Fowls and big size cocks were moving around the fort and most of the floor area was covered with
bird’s waste. On its southern boundary garbage was dumped. Boys were playing cricket at front of
fort. Small kids were climbing on the fort. Inscribed slab on the eastern side of fort records that
this fort was built in 1737 AD by the order of the honorable Governor of Bombay (Image – 24).
After seeing it, I felt that perhaps it’s the smallest fort in Mumbai. On plan, this fort looks like one
small airplane with two propellers at its both corners. Anyone can climb this fort. Behind it, BEST
has set up its Dharavi bus depot. Above this fort, difference between the floor area and height of

M.T. [14/7/2012] 7
parapet wall is merely 3 or 4 feet. Guns windows, seating arrangements for garrison behind the
parapet wall and outlet for water are provided. There is no provision for residential quarters and
even water storage facility is not there! In the middle of fort, one underground chamber is present
which can be approached by a flight of steps and to which connected a narrow channel may be
meant for providing fresh air. This underground chamber must have been used for storing
ammunition. Therefore, after observing and noting its architectural features and components, I felt
it was somewhat appears like a British battery cum outpost. Local residents were calling this fort,
Kala killa, Black fort and some were calling it Dharvi fort but no one was seems to be aware about
the existence of Riwa fort. Thus, the whole day went in the careful investigations and recording of
the architecture, location and purpose of these structures to be followed carefully in coming years.
Though, in the beginning I was somewhat doubtful about my observations, thanks to my
imagination behind the word ‘fort’, the concept itself changed considerably in upcoming years as I
dwelt deeper and deeper into the history of these strange structures which were called forts,
regimes responsible for its construction and most importantly social and economic conditions
when these structures took shape and dimensions. And thereafter, my continuous meditations on
this topic started. The main question before me was to trace the Riwa fort.
Monsoon started. That was my first regular monsoon in Mumbai. I experienced the
torrential rain of north Konkan which used to last continuously for two to three days with short
breaks in between. It was this time that my association with Shri. Bhalchandra Kulkarni, Assistant
Director of Directorate of Archaeology and Museums, Government of Maharashtra started. He
used to visit Mumbai Circle office to attend Custom office meetings and for some official matters.
A talented and very senior Deccan College product, he had enviable command on Marathi. He
had also published his research on the defensive structures of Mumbai and surrounding regions
through his acclaimed book in Marathi, “Mumbai Parisaratil Arthat Ekekalchya Firanganatil Kille”.
As soon as I got a copy of his nicely written book from him, I didn’t take too much time to finish
it. In two subsequent sittings, I finished the reading with required notes. He had identified the
lonely watch tower at Sion as Riwa fort and had treated Kala Killa at Dharavi as one separate entity
by calling it Dharavi fort. After going through Shri. Kulkarni’s book, being unconvinced about the
identification of Riwa fort with the lonely watch tower of Sion, again, I started to pursue this topic
carefully. As days passed, I found two views on the identification of Riwa fort. First was to consider
the lonely bastion of Sion as the Riwa fort and fort at Dharavi as the separate fort of Bombay

M.T. [14/7/2012] 8
islands without providing factual evidences for the both. Second was to consider Dharavi fort
blindly as the Riwa fort because most of the people holding this view, are not aware about the
existence of lonely watch tower at Sion besides the Sion fort, its actual role in the defense of
Bombay islands and who consider the Daharvi fort is the only fort after the Sion fort in this area.
In this case also, no proofs for the same are provided and unreasoned allegiance to consider the
present Dharavi fort as the Riwa fort is followed. Main questions before me were that which is the
real Riwa fort? If the present watch tower was the Riwa fort then what is the origin and purpose
behind the Dharavi fort? Where are its reliable references for its origin and construction? If the
present watch tower at Sion is not the Riwa fort and if the present Dharavi fort is the Riwa fort then
what are the evidences? If the both, i.e. the lonely watch tower at Sion and Dharavi fort are not
Riwa fort then did one separate fort like Riwa fort exist nearby Sion or Dharavi and which in the
later period was blasted or pulled down by the British themselves as in the case of Dongri fort, St.
George fort and the fortification of Bombay castle, once they found it is no more useful? Or was it
destroyed in invasion or demolished by the enemies, only to survive later in popular memory
without any clue as in the case of Mazgaon fort? Questions were many and I started to ponder on
every possible option. One fine night and amidst the roaring monsoon of Mumbai, I was served
with delicious crabs and hot fish curry in dinner cooked in the office kitchen. Indeed, like any
mortal creature in the sensible world, I was delighted with the tasty culinary that was bestowed on
me. Expressing my thankfulness and courtesy, I inquired generally about the person who cooked it
and the source of such exquisite food. “Ithlyach Koliwadyatun aanle aahet sir. Kadhi kadhi changle
khekhade aani machhi milate. Tari aata pahile sarkhe bhetat nahi.” (these are from local Koliwada
sir. Sometime we get good crabs and fishes but it’s not the same like old days) told Ramesh Koli
who himself is the resident of Elephanta island. He invited me for catching crabs and fishes on the
shores of Elephanta island and to eat delicious homemade sea food. I heard and read about very
ancient fishing communities which from the bulk of original residents of this region. Again, my
mind started to wander in the old days of Bombay and Salsette recreating their view which existed
during ancient time. Sion is very much clueless about its earlier history and in today’s race for FSI
in this area, scarcely no marks has been left to understand its earliest past except of one historical
continuity, Sion’s Koliwada. Sion fort, watch tower and old water tank at Sion must have been
sharing a good comradery with Koliwadas since their existence. Koliwada at Dharavi too is much
ancient and we find its repeated references in late medieval travelogues and memoirs. Busy street

M.T. [14/7/2012] 9
from the Sion Railway station takes us to the underground tunnel on its right side. As soon we
descend in the underground bridge which takes us to Sion (East), any person will find a direction
marking for Sion Koliwada. A two or three row of fish sellers forms a prominent view of Sion
Koliwada on the north-west tip of former Portuguese and British Sion whereas the present
Koliwada exist in south direction adjacent to present Cinemax theatre (former Rupam Cinema).
An angry cat may snarl at you if you disturb him/her on their daily duty. Fat and lazy cats and dogs
are found in good numbers in the areas nearby the Koliwadas. A considerable number of South
Indian communities also live in this area whose roots can be stretched back to the days of British
Raj. Despite Sion’s silence about its early past, cultural signatures about the rich cultural and
architectural activities that happened during the early historical, historical, early medieval and
medieval period in Bombay and Salsette islands exist in good number in spite of the repeated
human vandalism. But the definite evidence for Sion is yet wanting for its role during the early
historical, historical, early medieval and medieval society of Bombay island, being its northernmost
land bordering erstwhile Salsette island, which has earned itself the name ‘Shiv’ means ‘boundary’
of this group of islands, (from south to North, Colaba, Old Woman’s Island, Bombay, Mazgaon,
Varli, Mahim and Parel) and made it featuring prominently in numerous medieval and late
medieval travelogues and memoirs.
Muddy sea water, unplanned concrete jungle, carved or completely blasted hillocks,
vanishing plantation and a strange feeling of suffocation in today’s Mumbai sometime makes me
restless, prompting my mind to whirl around the landscape charmed by bluish sea, lush greenery,
slightly raised land and big or small hillocks as it existed during the 15th century and its earlier. 23rd
December 1534 AD. That was the date and year when the Gujarat Sultan, Bahadurshah handed
over the region of Dahanu in north till Uran in south to Portuguese as per the treaty signed on the
board galleon St. Mattheus . By that time, western coast was divided among the numerous regional
dynasties; prominent among them were the Sulatans of Gujarat from Ahemdabad in modern
Gujarat, Aadilshah from Bijapur in modern Karnataka and Nizamshah from Ahemdnagar in
modern Maharashtra. Portuguese became the righteous owner of the islands of Bombay which
they called Buon Bahia (Good Bay) after this treaty. Once came under the Portuguese dominance,
between 1545 – 1548 AD, during the Viceroyship of Dom João de Castro, Manuel Serrão was
granted the estate comprising four villages of Parel, Vadala, Sion and Varali for an annual rent of
412 pardos (Rs. 154.8.0) by the crown of Portugal. Bombay islands, from the ancient times, were

M.T. [14/7/2012] 10
divided in two kasbas, Bombay and Mahim. Sion used to come under the kasba of Mahim with
Mahim, Parel and Varella (Vadala). In 1554 AD, Portuguese Revenue Minister or Comptroller of
Revenue, Simão Botelho referred Sion as Syva which was the Portuguese corruption of Marathi
word Shiv. With the Portuguese, entered the various Christian religious orders in the islands of
Bombay, influenced heavily by the policy of their predecessor Vasco da Gama, ‘viemos buscar
cristãos e especiaria’ (we come here to seek Christians and spices). These missionary activities were
zealously supported by the King John III of Portugal who by the 1549 AD, ordered the civil
authorities to render every possible help and assistance to Christian orders for localities’
conversion to Christianity and as a result, by 1560 AD, numbers of Christian converts in Provincia
do Norte reached at its peak. Beautiful churches, chapels, villas started to dot the picturesque
landscape of Bombay islands. Salts pans was another element for which Sion was known for. At
the advent of Portuguese in Bombay islands, Sion must have looked beautiful at its best. In the
colorful landscape of Sion, Jesuits built the chapel of Nossa Senhora de Bom Concelho in 1596
AD which was affiliated to the Church of St. Michael in Mahim. Slowly powers of the Christian
orders in Portuguese Provincia do Norte increased and with the exception of Mazgaon and
Bombay proper, most of the land in the island was fallen in their hands. By the end of the 16th
century, Mahim, Dadar, Matunga, Sewri, Parel and Sion followed the suit and Jesuits controlled its
overall ownership. In the words of Antonio Bocarro from his ‘Description of Bombay’ in 1634
AD, “northern islands given over wholly to the Jesuits who owned houses and demesnes in Parel,
Sion and Mahim”. There is no indication of credible evidence for the existence of any defensive
structure at Sion island during the Portuguese rule but we can’t altogether deny it as even the
Portuguese religious structures used to be fortified and were well equipped with ammunitions for
the case of emergency as like the Churches at Bandra. It is important to note that in the gazette
notification of Sion fort dated 28th September 1929 reads, “Whole Hill-fort of Sion together with
all ancient Portuguese remains of buildings situated to the north, east and south-east of hill at its
toe”. The government of Bombay had published a site plan of Sion fort showing its nature and
extent in 1881 AD but unfortunately the site plan is no longer traceable. Today, we do not find any
evidences of Portuguese structures in the directions mentioned above around the Sion fort owing
to the construction of garden by BMC and a thick belt of constructions around the Sion hill itself.
In which architectural category did those Portuguese buildings were falling? What was their
purpose and to which period of Portuguese occupation did they belong? Whether Sion was made

M.T. [14/7/2012] 11
the target of constant Arab raids as with the case of Bombay island proper? Questions like these
and many more are open for study and research. Sion appears to be silent with its Koli, Kunbi
population and large salt pans over these years. Years after years passed till the dawn of 23rd June
1661 arrived.
At the Whitehall in Westminster, Central London one important treaty was signed which
in the near future was to decide the fate of Bombay islands. The occasion was the marriage of
British prince, Charles II and Portuguese princess Infanta Donna Catharina. As per the 11th article
of the treaty signed between British and Portuguese, “the port and island of Bombay with all the
rights, profits, territories and appurtenances whatsoever there unto belonging were handed over to
the King of Britain, his heirs and successors forever” and thus the Sion, along with the Bombay
islands was passed to British. From 1661 AD onwards, Sion served as the boundry between the
British territory in south and the Portuguese territory in north. Despite the treaty, till 1667 AD,
British were unsuccessful to gain the official control of Bombay islands from the Portuguese who
by offering one after another pretexts, kept the issue dangling which even resulted in nearly all out
destruction of British delegation commanded by Sir A. Shipman consisting four hundred soldiers
and hundred officers and ultimately death of Sir A. Shipman himself at the island of Angediv. In
1667 AD, Humphrey Cook, the Governor of Bombay forcibly took the control of Mahim, Sion,
Dharavi and Vadala villages despite the protests of Antonio de Mello de Castro, the Portuguese
Viceroy of Goa and Ignacio Sarmento de Sampaio. Jesuits were reluctant to hand over their
colossus estates to British in the beginning days of British rule in Bombay islands. Describing the
islands of Bombay to the Court of Directors, Surat through a letter dated 15th December 1673,
Governor of the Bombay and the architect of modern Bombay, Gerald Aungier and his Council
wrote, “Bombay island is made by inroads of the sea into four small islands, passable at low water,
1. Colleo or Old Woman’s island, 2.the Palmero grove of Bombay, the twon of Mazgaon, Parel,
Matunga, Sion and Dharavee (Dharavi), 3.the Cassabem (Kasba) or Palmero wood of Mahim, 4.
The hilly island of Verloy (Varli). The sea hath eaten up about one third of the island… the island
is divided in two small shires, Bombay and Mahim, under the shire of Bombay comes the island of
Colleo (Colaba), town of Bombay, Mazgaon and Parell with several parishes of Pallo, Deirao,
Gregon, Vall and Mochein. In the shire of Mahim comes Mahim, Sion, Dharavee, Verlee with the
several parishes of Salvacon, St. Michael etc.” Informing further, he mentions about the “some line
or parapets and guard houses have been raised at Mahim and Sion” and thus the first credible

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mention about the fort or defensive structures at Sion comes. He continues that, “We intend also
to sinking the fords of Mahim and Sion with quantities of sharp cragged stones, some pieces of old
timber stuck with spikes and nails and to have a good number of crow’s feet and spike balls in
readiness to gall either a horse or foot that shall endeavor to pass those fords”. From this line,
importance of this place can be fairly understood. According to the records, the credit for the
construction of Sion fort is generally given to Gerald Aungier who said to have constructed this fort
from 1669 – 1677 AD. Existence of any fort named as Riwa is not mentioned in this letter. During
the governorship of Aungier, the system of Police force for the protection of Bombay islands was
born. Aungier organized the local Bhandari people to form the protection band under the
command of Subhedar with their headquarters at Mahim, Sewri, Sion and other natural divisions
of the island. Again, by posting archaic Police force especially with its headquarters at Sion, its
strategic importance can be gauged. Through some letters by the senior officials of the Bombay
like the Commissioner, Deputy Governor and the Council in the year of 1668 and 1669 AD, we
come to know about the forts of Mazgaon, Sion, Mahim and Varli were supplied with guns by the
end of 17th century. Seeing the present cannons at Sion fort, two below in the office premises and
one in the fort, I feel the robustness this small fort had experienced once with these guns of death
and with more alertness it might have guarded the boundary of the northernmost land of British
controlled Bombay islands. Dr. John Fryer, a well known European visitor to this region and who
called Sion Siam records in his memoir, ‘A New Account of East India and Persia’ (1675 AD)
about “a church and demesnes belonging to the Jesuits to which appertains Sion manured by
Coonabies”. He also talks about the salt pans of Sion. In the month of March 1681, Captain
Richard Keigwin who rocked the Bombay for the next one year by his mutiny and directly ruled
the island on the name of King, was appointed the Commandant of all the forces on the island and
a third member of council on a salary of 6 shillings a day without any allowances for diet and
lodging. It was during his tenure that we come to know that he built small fortifications at Mahim
and Sion, a second definite reference for the existence of defensive structure at Sion. Therefore,
one question rises before me, which fortification Keigwin built at Sion when the Sion fort said to
have built by Gerald Aungier already existed? Does it point to the lonely bastion/watch tower at the
low lying hill near Sion fort or does it point to addition or modification in the already existing Sion
fort? Then these questions are yet to be answered satisfactorily. One important thing to note is that
till now Riwa fort or the existence of Riwa fort very near to Sion fort or the lone watch tower near

M.T. [14/7/2012] 13
the Sion fort as the Riwa fort is not mentioned at all in any of the British documents, travelogues or
memoirs. Then where was the Riwa fort? Meanwhile, by the year of 1692 AD, company was
successful to get possession of all lands once controlled by Jesuits in Bombay islands.
As the 18th century began, in 1708 AD, Sion was connected to Mahim by a causeway. In
the 1724 AD map (Map – 2) of the port and island of Bombay with the adjacent islands, Sion is
shown as Siam with almost all major fortifications but it nowhere shows the Riwa fort. The most
important reference for the fort and watch tower at Sion comes from the report on the description
of Bombay islands dated 18th January 1727 AD along with the estimate sent by Portuguese Viceroy
João de Saldanha da Gama to the King of Portugal, John V, for exploring the possibility to
purchase Bombay islands back from the British. In this report while providing information about
Bombay islands, he informs that “…Bombay had two towns or Kasbas, Bombay and Mahim, it had
eight villages, Mazgaon, Varli, Parel, Vadala (between Parel and Matunga), Naigaon (south of
Vadala and north of Parel), Matunga, Dharavi and the island of Kolis or Kolaba, it had seven
hamlets, two Aivaris and Gauvari under Vadala, two, Bamanvali and Coltem under Dharavi and
three, Bhoiwada, Pomala and Salgado under Parel and it had five Koli under Bombay, Mazgaon,
Varli, Parel and Sion. There were three saltpans at Kasli north of Matunga, Siwari and Vadali…”
For estimated produce and revenue on the different parts of the island, he cites Sion with 54
mudas and a few palms Xms. 1400 and Dharavi with two hamlets, 23 mudas and a few brab-palms
Xms. 625. Among the defensive structures existing on the islands, he correctly mentions small
tower and breastwork at Sion with a Captain and 62 men and 9 or 10 guns. His remarks makes
another striking point as he notes only the existence of a small watch tower (present watch tower
near the Sion fort) and breastwork at Sion (the actual Sion fort) and he does not refer at all to any
structure as Riwa fort either nearby Sion fort or even does not call a small watch tower near Sion
fort as Riwa fort. It completely proves that Riwa fort did not exist till 1727 AD and a small watch
tower near Sion fort was not even known by the name of Riwa fort. In 1737 AD, when the future
of Salsette was uncertain due to ongoing Portuguese-Maratha wars, British enlisted Siddi troops for
the defense of Sion fort. It is in 1737 AD only, that the small fort cum battery at the present
Dharavi was built by the order of the governor of Bombay, John Horne, as recorded on its
inscribed slab. And this was the fort which was called as Riwa or Reva fort by the British and not
the small watch tower near the Sion fort. The story of Riwa fort starts only from 1737 AD and not
before it. After the Maratha victory against the Portuguese in 1739 AD, entire Salsette island and

M.T. [14/7/2012] 14
rest of region under the Portuguese controlled Provincia do Norte came under the Maratha
control and therefore, once again, Sion marked the boundary between the British controlled
Bombay islands in south and the Maratha ruled region in north. Responsibility on the shoulder of
Sion fort and watch tower/bastion nearby and Riwa fort must had rose considerably following the
unwanted neighbors next to the door. Seeing the hostile Salsette island on the north, British must
have felt to strengthen their boundaries and outposts and as one of the outcomes of it, probably by
1740 AD, quarters were provided for the outposts at Sion, Sewri, Mahim and Warli. By 1742 AD,
Sion is mentioned as one of the Koli hamlets of the Bombay islands. One entry of 1742 AD about
the protection measures of the island states that, “…to protect the island, its population of 70,000,
its gardens, groves, rice-lands, fisheries, grave-yards and salt pans, there were the Bombay fort and
twon wall, the Mazgaon and Dongri forts, the Sewri fort with a garrison of fifty sepoys, one
Subhedar and eight or ten guns, a small tower and one breastwork with nine to ten guns, sixty
soldiers and one Captain at Sion, the triple bastioned fort of Mahim with one hundred soldiers
and thirty guns and lastly the Varli fort, armed with seven or eight guns and manned by an ensign
and twenty five soldiers…”. Once more, all old and prominent defensive structures of the Bombay
group of islands feature in this list but not the Riwa fort, being the new entry (1737 AD) to the list.
In 1764 AD, according to records, Bombay was made impregnable by small forts Mazgaon, Sewri
and Warli and by the larger fortification at Mahim and Sion. It seems that by 1764 AD, small
battery cum fort of built at Dharavi and called as Reva started to make its appearance on the
regional maps though not in everyone. For instance, in the map renowned French Cartographer
and Geographer, Jacques-Nicolas Bellin, ‘Plan de Bombay, Et ses Environs’ of 1764 AD (Map –
3), he has shown Sion as San but it has not shown locality or fort called Riwa. But one of the most
important cartographic references about Riwa fort cum battery features in 1764 AD only, in the
map drawn by famous German cartographer and explorer, Carsten Niebhur who on visit to
Bombay had produced one of the most `accurate maps of Bombay islands during those days
(Map – 4). In his map, Sion fort is shown on the north-east boundary of the island whereas Riwa
fort is shown on the north-west side and is mentioned as Riva or Rivalo Battery. And more
significantly, it is shown near Dharavi which is referred there as Darway (Map – 4 Closer). This is
the first definite contemporary evidence to prove that the location Riwa fort was not all near Sion
fort or in Sion nor it was equated with the lonely watch tower of Sion but it was located on the
north-west tip of Dharavi. When British conquered Salsette and Karanja islands from Marathas in

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1774 AD, more attention was paid for the protection of island. By 1780 AD, on the advice of Lord
Clive and General Lawrence and many important officers, special care was taken to strengthen the
defensive structures of the island and it is during this period that forts of Sion and Reva were made
stronger. This is the first direct reference of Riwa fort that we get in the old British documents and
therefore, it becomes clear that Riwa or Reva fort became prominent only probably after 1775 AD.
BY 1799 AD Parel and Sion were being quarried for lime stones. Major Lachlan Macquarie of the
77th Regiment of Bombay Army visited Sion fort on 5th October 1789 in the company of Colonel
and Mrs. Sterling, Mr. and Mrs. Herring. In his own words according to the entry abut Sion fort he
writes, “We went upon a very pleasant Party today, along with Col. and Mrs. Stirling, and Mr. and
Mrs. Herring, and a number of Gentlemen, to Meham (Mahim) and Sion Fort, where we dined
and spent a very agreeable day; From the Fort on Sion Hill, which commands a most extensive
view, we had a most charming Prospect of every part of the Island of Bombay, the neighboring
Islands, and Continent, which along with the variety of breaks of water intervening, forms a most
beautiful and very Picturesque Scene; Sion Fort is Nine Measured Miles from Bombay Fort and is
one of the Extremities of the Island, – being divided only by a very narrow channel from the large
Island of Salcet, belonging also to the Presidency of Bombay. I travelled to Sion in a Palanquin,
having Eight Bearers – a very easy and comfortable mode of Travelling in this Country. We all
returned in the Evening to Bombay." Most important and existing pictorial representation about
the Sion fort and its surroundings comes from the paintings of famous Scottish portrait painter and
draughtsman, James Wales (1747 – 1795 AD), whose paintings of Sion fort drawn in 1791-1792
AD gives vivid details about the fort and its surroundings. He drew two views of Bombay and its
environs from within the walls of Sion fort (Image – 25, 26, Courtesy – Lachlan and Elizabeth
Macquarie Archive, Macquarie University, Australia) which were originally published
posthumously entitled, “Twelve views of the island of Bombay and its vicinity: Taken in the years
of 1791 – 1792”.
By the commencement of 19th century, British grip on the surrounding regions of Bombay
started to grow firm. In another major move to join Bombay and Salsette islands, Bombay islands
was connected to Salsette by a causeway from Sion in 1803 AD. In the available map of the Island
of Bombay (1812-16) by Captain Thomas Dickinson from Company’s Engineers, once again the
accurate location of Sion fort and Riwa fort is given (Map – 5). In this map, we can see the Sion or
Senw Fort on the north-east corner of the island and Riwa fort, mentioned there as Riva fort on the

M.T. [14/7/2012] 16
northern corner of island, near Dharavee (Dharavi) (Map – 5 Closer). Both of these forts are
located opposite to each other. It is to note that Sion fort is located on the right side of Duncan’s
Causeway, (which connected Bombay islands to Salsette islands) and Riwa fort on the left side.
After annexing Maratha territories in 1818 A, virtually no significant enemy was left against British
in the western India and therefore, need for keeping defense structures like forts was slowly started
to diminish. British awarded the portion of Inami land at Sion on the north-east of Sion fort to
Lowji Wadia and family through land grant of 1821 AD considering the excellent services they
rendered as shipbuilders to company. The population of Sion continued to the same in number as
it used to exist before the century. In 1834 AD, the inami land given at Sion to Lowji (Wadia
family) as given in 1821 AD, was later exchanged with certain lands in the Thane district. In one
map of Bombay and Colaba island dating to year of 1843 AD, the respective positions of
Dharavee and Riwa are given, whereas in Sion, both two hillocks are shown where the defensive
structures of Sion exists, one being the heighted hillock on east which houses the Sion fort and
other one on the west of it which has watch tower (Map – 6 and Map – 6 Closer). Therefore, again
it proves that Sion and Riwa were two different localities and latter was in or nearby Dharavi but
away from Sion, the condition which exists today as after reclamation, Riwa has become the part of
Dharavi and therefore, the present Dharavi fort is none other then than the Riwa fort itself.
Consolidating British suzerainty over the entire Bombay islands and for the better administration,
in 1872 AD considering the increase in population, Sion was included in the F Ward and by 1882
AD, Sion section had in its north creek and causeway, on south Sewri, on east harbor and on the
west G.I.P Railway. Sion fort and watch tower nearby had become only as the object of interests
and the place from where a beautiful view of Salsette and Bombay islands can be seen. They had
done their duty obediently for at least 150 years and were mute witness of early British days in the
Bombay islands till their virtual hegemony on the geo-politics of western India.
On the advent of 20th century, the situation about the accurate position of Sion fort and
Riwa fort became much clear. In the map of 1909 AD of the island of Bombay, the localities of the
Sion fort and Riwa fort or Riwah fort as written in the map are properly given. Both these forts are
shown quite opposite to each other, in respect of the Duncan’s causeway which is passing in
between. Therefore, finally it becomes clear that both Sion fort and watch tower near by it was the
part of one group of defensive structure at Sion and the Riwa fort formed the another nucleus of
defensive structure on the northern periphery of the Bombay island located in Dharavi area. The

M.T. [14/7/2012] 17
small watch tower of Sion was never equated with the Riwa fort and even was not identified with it.
Sion fort and small watch tower nearby are much older than the Riwa fort. Riwa fort is much later
entry to the defensive structure of Bombay island and was constructed in 1737 AD and at present
is called Kala Killa or Dharavi fort. On 28th September 1929, vide notification number 6225, Sion
fort, considering its historical and cultural importance was declared as a Nationally Protected
Monument. After the independence, it came in the jurisdiction of the South-Western Circle of
Archaeological Survey of India and later in the Aurangabad Circle of Archaeological Survey of
India. With the available photographs of Sion fort in the year of 1966 (Image – 27) and 1976
(Image – 28, 29) from the collection of Archaeological Survey of India, we can see its relatively
good condition with its most of the structure, roof and manglorean tiles intact. Though 230/240
years old it was, its beauty and robustness captures any ones attention, being one of the
representative examples of European defensive architecture in India. After the formation of
Mumbai Circle in 2002, the Sion fort came under its jurisdiction. The lonely bastion at Sion is
unprotected till now and one can see the from the present Sion Railway station, large cavities that
are formed in the hillock due to carving its west side for fulfilling the need of construction activities.
Further taking away the soil or carving the hillock may destabilize the base of watch tower and one
more time we will lose one of the prime witness for the birth of megacity called Mumbai. Riwa
fort/Dharavi fort is protected by the State government but due to local problems like rapid
construction activities, abundance of residential structures and its solution from the MMRDA,
BMC and the District Collector office, it is yet chalk out any real protection or conservation
measures for it and till then, this smallest fort in Mumbai will welcome its visitors amidst its
crowded surrounding and from the outside of which, even no one we will be able to sense about its
existence.
Now while seeing back to the vivid history and contours of ages, Sion and importantly Sion
fort, nearby watch tower and Riwa fort at Dharavi have gone through till date, does it not become
our responsibility to care for its protection and preservation for its secure passage to our future
generations? They are eager to tell their story and experiences of ages to persons who are willing to
listen it, instead of vandalizing such beautiful monuments which will silent them for forever.

M.T. [14/7/2012] 18
References -
Bernell, John. 1933. Bombay in the Days of Queen Anne London: Haklyut Society

Campbell, James and Edwardes, S. 1909. Gazetteer of the Bombay City and Island (3 Volumes)
Mumbai: Department of Gazetteers, Maharashtra

Cunha, G.D. 2004. Origin of Bombay New Delhi: Asian Education Services

Douglas, James. 1900. Glimpses of Old Bombay and Western India London: Sampson, Law,
Marton & Company

Forrest, G.W. 1887. Selections from the Letters, Despatches and other State Papers Preserved in
the Bombay Secretariat Vol. I Bombay: Government Press

Khobarekar, V.G. 2002. Konkan - From the Earliest to 1818 AD Pune: Snehvardhan Publishing
House

Kulkarni, B.V. 2009. Mumbai Parisaratil Arthat Ekekalchya Firanganatil Kille Mumbai:
Directorate of Archaeology and Museums, Maharashtra

Nairne, A.K. History of Konkan Mumbai: Department of Gazetteers, Maharashtra

Prakash, G. 2011. Mumbai Fables New Delhi: Harper Collins

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