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UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY, JAMAICA

Construction Technology 2

Windows and Doors

Edward Foster 0802515

12/1/2010

Faculty of Education and Liberal Studies

Presented to: Mr. D. Reid

This research paper is all about windows and doors. It spans to the types, functions,
components, and hardware of the various windows are doors. Installation procedures and
terminologies used in the installation processes of both were also integrated within this project.
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Table of Contents
WINDOWS................................................................................................................................4
Types of Windows..................................................................................................................5
Fixed Light Windows ...........................................................................................................5
Side Hung Casement ............................................................................................................6
Top Hung Casement (Awning) .............................................................................................6
Hopper Windows .................................................................................................................7
Pivoted Windows .................................................................................................................7
Double Hung Sliding Sash ...................................................................................................8
Louvered Windows ..............................................................................................................8
Window Configurations ........................................................................................................9
Mullioned window ...............................................................................................................9
Bow window ........................................................................................................................9
Bay window ....................................................................................................................... 10
Oriel window ..................................................................................................................... 10
Combination of Window Systems ....................................................................................... 11
Components of a Window ................................................................................................... 12
Window Hardware (Ironmongery) ..................................................................................... 13
General Installation of a Window ....................................................................................... 14
DOORS .................................................................................................................................... 18
Choice of door type .............................................................................................................. 18
Different types of doors ....................................................................................................... 19
Ledged and braced doors.................................................................................................... 19
Bound lining doors............................................................................................................. 20
Flush panel doors ............................................................................................................... 21
Panelled doors.................................................................................................................... 22
Pressed Panel Doors ........................................................................................................... 25
Pocket Doors...................................................................................................................... 25
15 Pane Doors .................................................................................................................... 26
Metal doors ........................................................................................................................ 27
Revolving doors ................................................................................................................. 28
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Purpose made and Non-standard External Doors ............................................................. 30

Door Lining .......................................................................................................................... 31
Door Frames ........................................................................................................................ 32
Door Hardware (Ironmongery) ......................................................................................... 33
General Installation of a Door............................................................................................. 34
GLOSSARY OF TERMINOLOGIES ................................................................................... 36
REFERENCES ........................................................................................................................ 38
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WINDOWS

Windows, allegedly called the “eye” of a building or home, are frameworks of that contains a

glass or translucent windowpane and is built into a wall or roof to chiefly admit light but also air

(ventilation) and views to the outdoors. However, windows should serve to exclude wind and

rain, and act as a blockade to extreme transfer of heat, sound and spread of fire in much the same

way that the surrounding wall or roof does. All windows have one thing in common – glazing.

Windows are made from a variety of materials, in a variety of types and in a variety of

configurations: Materials – wood, plastics and metals; Types – casement, sash and case, pivot

and sliding (gliding); Configurations – plain, mullioned, oriel, bay, bow, etc.

(Figure illustrating the

functional requirements of a

window)
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Windows made of plastics, particularly uPVC, may be white or coloured and even

impressed with a timber ‘grain’. The sections are hollow and may be of a single skin or more

likely with internal ribs. Metals such as steel and aluminium are being be used to make

windows. Aluminium windows are now made using extruded hollow sections. Some sections

may be of a single skin construction or may have internal ribs. Metal windows can also be self

finished, coated with plastics. Timber windows can be plastic coated. Here the timber is

machined to shape and a thin skin of PVC is drawn over the section prior to fabrication.

There are several basic types of windows: fixed light, side hung casement, top hung

casement (awning window), hopper, pivoted (center: vertically or horizontally pivoted), double

hung sliding sash, horizontal sliding sash, and louvered.

Types of Windows

Fixed Light Windows

The fixed light window, also known as the picture window, is the

simplest and yet most versatile element of window décor, letting in

light but keeping out the elements. Because it doesn't open and has no

moving parts (hence, it’s “fixed”), the picture window offers excellent

insulation and weatherproofing. in addition, the window’s uncluttered

simplicity maximizes your view of the outdoors. If combined with patio doors or open-and-close

windows, picture windows bring the perfect balance of light and ventilation. Cons to this kind of

window are the large expanse of glass that makes them vulnerable to breakage, and that they are

generally for looks only and won’t help with ventilation on their own. Since picture windows

have no moving parts and are generally left untouched, they are a fairly durable window option.
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Side Hung Casement

Basically, casement windows are hinged on the side and swing outward

like a door to the right or left. Though they’re no longer the most popular

window choice, casements is still a great option for homeowners that

want to take full advantage of the breezes outside. Advantages of

casement window embrace the fact that no other window type can open

as far. They open easily for better ventilation, and close securely for

energy efficiency. With hook-shaped locks embedded into the frame,

casements are extremely difficult to break in to. On the other hand,

casement windows are opened outward, which makes them more exposed

to the elements, and certain sections can become weather-worn quickly. Most casements come

with mechanical parts prone to breakage. With screens on the inside, casements tend to sustain

more damage than windows with screens on the outside. Casement windows on the whole can

be very durable if the mechanical pieces are kept in good working order.

Top Hung Casement (Awning)

Awning windows, generally considered durable, are

designed to provide fresh breezes and just enough privacy.

They are a mainstay of traditional architectural styles. They

are known for their ability to ventilate homes while also

shielding from rain. Awning windows are great for

bedrooms and other areas that need to maintain privacy but

still let some light in. They can be positioned anywhere—

next to windows, arranged in columns, or placed above patio doors and fixed light windows.
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Screens for awning windows are set on the inside, so you may end up with some dirt on your

floors. Awnings that are within reach from the exterior ground of the home can pose a security

risk. If installing an awning high up, consider self-cleaning glass for the exterior surface.

Otherwise, cleaning is a tougher task.

Hopper Windows

A hopper window is an inverted awning window, opening

inwards, with the sash hinged at the bottom. Hopper windows

are very used in basements, but not only. They are popular, and

comparatively to awning and casement windows have the same

advantages (high energy efficiency, good ventilation) and

disadvantages (they are less easy to open and close, and to

clean, and can be obstructive in some low places).

Pivoted Windows

Pivot windows can rotate in either horizontal or vertical planes.

The pivot line can be central to the sash or off-set depending on

customer preference. They can be integrated with fixed-light

windows and glass door systems. The uniqueness of the pivot

window is the ability to rotate the opening sash to the room

inside for cleaning. They are especially suitable for those larger applications where open-out

windows would be oversized. Pivot windows are suitable for both domestic & commercial

applications offering good ventilation, a distinctive style and ease of cleaning.

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Double Hung Sliding Sash

The name "double hung" refers to a special window type, the two

halves of. A double hung window has two sashes (the part of the

window that holds glass), which move up or down within the

frame: an upper sash and a lower sash, positioned one over the

other to allow venting from the top or bottom. Double hung

windows fit into any decorating scheme, from historic to

traditional to contemporary. They don’t take up any exterior space, making them ideal windows

for walkways, porches and patios. Many of today’s double hung styles make for easy cleaning,

weatherproofing and caulking repair. On the other hand, the sliding sashes on some double hung

windows are difficult to seal. Double hung windows allow for air leakage and are not the most

energy efficient window option. Since they can only be opened halfway, airflow is more

restricted. Double hung windows are durable and require minimal maintenance.

Single Hung Sliding Sash windows have one movable sash (usually the bottom one) and the

other fixed. This is the earlier form of sliding sash window, and is also cheaper.

Horizontal Sliding Sash windows have two or more sashes that overlap slightly but slide

horizontally within the frame.

Louvered Windows

Louvered Windows are made of glass slats (aslo available in wood and plastic slats) set in metal

clips that can be opened and closed in unison; also called jalousie. This type of window is

manually rotated to open or close the overlapping panels as required, and can be opened by

degrees to control how much air or light passes through. Louvered windows are extremely
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popular in tropical climates. They’re often used in breezeways

or porches that are not air-conditioned, because they allow

cool breezes indoors while still shielding your home from rain

and other elements. Lovered windows are nearly impossible

to completely seal. They tend to allow heat to escape, so

they’re impractical for cooler climates. For areas where storms are common,these windows

aren’t the best for weather protection’ and because they can't seal, they pose a security risk as

well.

Window Configurations

Below are some common types of window configuration:

TYPE PICTURE
Mullioned window - Mullioned windows
are windows which are divided into adjacent
panes with the use of mullions, which are
vertical elements used to break up a space.
Mullions are especially associated with
Gothic design, and some very fine examples
of mullioned doors and windows can be
seen in Gothic cathedrals and homes.

Bow window - is a curved bay window.

Bow windows are designed to create space
by projecting beyond the exterior wall of a
building, and to provide a wider view of the
garden or street outside and typically
combine four or more casement windows,
which join together to form an arch.
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TYPE PICTURE

Bay window - is a window space projecting

outward from the main walls of a building
and forming a bay in a room, either square
or polygonal in plan. The angles most
commonly used on the inside corners of the
bay are 90, 135 and 150 degrees.

Oriel window – are a form of bay window

commonly found in Gothic revival
architecture, which jut out from the main
wall of the building but do not reach to the
ground. This type of window was also used
in Victorian Architecture in the Queen Anne
Style.

(Diagrams illustrat-
ing additional
shapes or features
that may be
incorporated in the
window design)
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Combination of Window Systems

Below are some examples of combination of one or more types of window to create a window:
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Components of a Window
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Window Hardware (Ironmongery)

Timber Windows - wide range of ironmongery available which can be factory fitted or supplied

and fixed on site.

Metal Windows - ironmongery usually supplied with and factory fitted to the windows.
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General Installation of a Window

1. Check the rough opening

Measure the width of the rough opening at the top, middle, and bottom and the height at

both sides and in the middle.

If the difference between the three width measurements or the three height measurements

of the rough opening is more than 1 inch, cut tapered filler strips from stud stock and nail

them to the sides of the opening that are out of level or out of plumb.

Make sure the outside dimensions of the window are at least ¾-inch narrower and ½-inch

shorter than the smallest width and height measurements, respectively. If they're not,

you'll have to either reframe the opening or order a new window.

2. Protect against water infiltration

Cut a 6-inch-wide strip of self-adhering waterproof membrane (or a 9- to 12-inch-wide

strip of 15-pound builder's felt) 18 to 24 inches longer than the window's width. Center

the membrane under the rough opening and adhere it to the existing builder's felt or house

wrap. Make sure its top edge doesn't extend above the edge of the opening.

Cut two more strips of membrane (or felt) 1 foot longer than the height of the opening.

Center and attach them along each side of the opening, overlapping the strip under the

window.

Cut another strip of membrane (or felt) 1 foot longer than the window is wide; center and

attach it across the top of the rough opening so that it overlaps the two side strips.

TIP: When applying flashing, layer the material so that any water running down the wall

is directed out: Seams should never face up.

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3. Install the window

Fold out the window unit's nailing fins so they are perpendicular to the sides of the

window frame. Then set the window's sill into the bottom of the rough opening, and tip

the frame into the opening until all the nailing fins are tight against the wall.

Have an assistant stand inside and tell you when the gaps between the sides of the

window and the jack studs are equal on both sides. Tack the nailing fin to the sheathing at

one upper corner with a 1 ½-inch roofing nail, but do not drive it all the way in.

4. Level the window

Place a 2-foot level on the windowsill, and note its high side. Then hold a 4-foot level

against the window jamb on that side, and shift the sill left or right until the level shows

the jamb is plumb. Tack a nail into the fin at the lower corner on the same side as the first

nail.

Next, lay a 2-foot level on the sill, and adjust the free bottom corner up until the sill is

leve. Tack the fin in this lower corner to the wall.

5. Check the window for square

Double-check that the window is square by measuring the frame diagonally from corner

to corner. Measurements should be within 1/16 inch. If not, recheck the frame's side for

plumb and the sill for level. You may have to pull out the last two temporary nails and

adjust the frame.

When the sill is level and the frame square, drive home the nails at each corner. If the

windowsill is level and corner-to-corner diagonal measurements are identical, the sides of

the window are plumb.

Holding a tape measure horizontally, measure the width of the window at several places
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to make sure the side jambs aren't bowed. If they are, push the frame in or out at the

center of the bow and nail the fin at that point. Then nail the sides, top, and bottom of the

nailing fin or casing, driving one nail through every other prepunched hole.

6. Seal the perimeter

Cut a strip of 6-inch-wide waterproof membrane 1 foot longer than the window is wide.

Center it under the window and adhere it to the wall so it covers the bottom nailing fin.

Cut two more strips of membrane 1 foot longer than the height of the window and repeat

the above process on both sides of the window. Make sure each strip's lower end overlaps

the strip under the unit.

7. Flash the top

If the manufacturer has supplied snap-in metal flashing to cover the top of the window

frame, apply a bead of caulk to the top edge of the window casing, then press the flashing

in place.

If no flashing has been supplied, cut and bend a piece of metal flashing so it overhangs

the front and sides of the casing by 1/4 inch and extends 3 inches up the wall. Fasten the

top edge of the flashing to the wall with 1 ½-inch roofing nails and cover it with a strip of

waterproof membrane long enough to cover the top ends of the two side strips.

8. Insulate against drafts

Fit the sash into the window frame.

Inside the house, apply a single thin bead of minimally expanding polyurethane foam to

the gap between the window and the framing. Allow the bead to expand and cure for one

hour before adding more. Repeat until the cavity is completely filled.
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When using fiberglass insulation, cut unfaced batting a little larger than the space

between the window and the framing, and push the batting in with a putty knife. To

prevent air leaks, cover the gap with aluminum tape.

If the gap is too narrow for either foam or fiberglass insulation, seal it with a bead of

caulk.

TIP: Do not fill the gap between jamb and framing with too much foam too quickly.

Otherwise, the jamb could bow and thereby bind the sash.
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DOORS

A door is usually a swinging or sliding barrier by which an entry is closed and opened (a means

of access and egress); also: a similar part of a piece of furniture, vehicles, cupboards, cages, etc.

Doors can be grouped as: external doors and internal doors. They can be further grouped as:

entrance doors and pass doors – doors allowing passage from one compartment of a building to

another. They can also be grouped as: doors with a specific resistance to fire and doors with no

particular resistance to fire. Means of access is the operating characteristics of a door. To serve

this function, it depends on the weight of the door itself and the hardware such as hinges and

locks and fitments such as closers fixed to the door and frame. Other functional requirements of

doors are to maintain continuity of wall function when closed: include strength and shape

stability, privacy, security, thermal insulation, sound insulation, and exclusion of wind and rain.

No matter what the construction of the doors, they are always hung in a frame; on hinges;

with a latch or lock to keep the door closed, with stops against which the door closes; sometimes

with weather stripping or draught proofing round the edges; architraves to cover the joint

between frame and wall; handles or ‘furniture’ with which to operate the latch and open and

close the door; and more often than not now, a threshold plate or a weather bar.

In addition to providing access, doors are intended to permit natural light or views; it

incorporates glass, a French door or glass slider, for example. If ventilation is important, the door

may have a louvered construction or a portion that swings open.

Choice of door type can be determined by:

1. Position: whether internal or external.

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2. Properties required: fire resistant, glazed to provide for borrowed light or vision through,

etc.

3. Appearance: flush or panelled, painted or polished, etc.

There a different types of doors, some of which are:

 Ledged and braced doors:

 Bound lining doors

 Flush panel doors

 Panelled doors (including 15 pane glazed doors)

 Pressed panel doors

 Pocket doors

 15 pane doors

 Metal doors

 Revolving doors

Ledged and braced doors

The face of this door is made from tongued and grooved boarding nailed vertically to at

least three rails, the ledges, and with two diagonal braces toe jointed into the rails. These doors

are only suitable for sheds, outhouses, garden wall gates and ancillary buildings with minimal

security requirements.
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(Figure illustrating a ledged and braced door)

Bound lining doors

Bound lining doors look to the uninitiated much like ledged and braced doors, but there

are a number of crucial differences. These crucial differences include:

 A frame is used all round the outside edge of the door (separate from the frame that

the door is hung or hinged to).

 The t&g boarding is 10–12 mm thick and is always V-jointed or similarly shaped, and

it is nailed to the frame all round the edge.

 The edge frame is generally made of 38–45 mm thick timber and diagonal braces are

set between the three horizontal ‘rails’ which form part of the frame.

 The joints of the frame are ‘through morticed and tenoned’.

 The braces are morticed into the top, middle and bottom rails rather than plain toe

jointed.
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These are much more robust doors and with good ironmongery will fulfill many requirements

where basic security is an issue.

(Figure illustrating a bound lining door)

Flush panel doors

These doors are made from two sheets of principally plywood or hardboard (although any

sheet material can be used) separated by a core. Cores can be solid or cellular. Solid cores are

made of timber strip or sheets of particle board, various densities being used. Cellular cores are

made from an ‘egg box’ construction of timber strips or cardboard. They can also be made from

sheets of particle board which have holes running the height of the door.

The flush panels are glued only to the core material. Wire staples are occasionally used in

the core but never in the panel face material. Cellular cores make the lightest doors but offer

little security and can only be used as pass doors (another term for an internal door, generally
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without any security arrangements). Solid cores make the heaviest doors, which do offer

security and are used for external doors if the glues used are weatherproof.

(Figure illustrating a flush panel door)

Panelled doors

Panelled doors are constructed by forming a frame generally of 38 to 45 mm thick timber

inside which thinner layers of timber, plywood or veneered particle board or even glass or mirror

are set into grooves cut in the inside edge of the frame. Most usually the edges of the frame,

where the panels are let in, are moulded to improve the appearance of the door. The most

common shape is the ovolo moulding, shown in the figure below.

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The panels can be any thickness up to the full

frame thickness but are usually 10–15mm thick

in modern construction. The faces of the panels

can be carved. The number of panels can vary

but two, four or six is usual. Panels can be

shaped by reducing the thickness at the edges.

The reduction can be a simple rebate or a

splayed rebate. The back of the panel can be left plain or can be shaped differently from or in the

same way as the face. It is not uncommon to have the upper panel(s) glazed and the lower

panel(s) solid. (Below: figure illustrating a 4 and 6-panel door)

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Types of Panels

TYPES DESCRIPTION

Raised and Field

The panel, of uniform thickness, is raised to a

flat field at the centre.

The bevel rise to a flat surface at the centre of

Bevel Raised and Field the panel, with the flat surface (field),

emphasized by a slight sinking cut around the

field.

At the field the panel is either as thick or

slightly less thick than the stiles.

The proportion of the fielded surface to the

whole

Bevel Raise

Panel are cut with four bevel faces on each

side; the bevel faces having the same slope so

that they rise to a point; or a ridge, if the panel

is rectangular.
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Pressed Panel Doors

Pressed panel doors are similar to flush panel doors in that they have a S/w ‘frame’, to

each side of which is glued a sheet of hardboard which has been hot pressed (mechanically) into

the shape of a four or six panel door. The ‘frame’ is generally just large enough to accommodate

the screws for the hinges. Lock blocks are fitted, though not necessarily both sides, with the

same consequences as before.

Pocket Doors

A pocket door is a sliding door that slides along its length and hides, when open, into a

compartment in the adjacent wall. Pocket doors are used for architectural effect, or when there is

no room for the swing of a hinged door. They usually travel on rollers suspended from an

overhead track, although some also feature tracks or guides along the floor. Both single- and

double-door versions are used, depending on how wide an entry is desired.

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(Diagram illustrating the parts of the

pocket door)

15 Pane Doors

15 pane doors comprise a frame of two stiles, a bottom rail and a top rail, the space inside

that frame being divided into 15 equal panes, 5 × 3, by the use of astragals or glazing bars. The

construction of the frame is similar to the

panelled doors already described, with ovolo

mouldings generally used on one side of the

frame edges, with a plain rebate and loose

beads on the other side to receive the glass.

The astragals are made with double ovolo

mouldings and double rebates as shown. The

ends of the astragals are reduced to rectangular

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section tenons and let into mortices cut into the stiles and rails. The mouldings on the astragals

match those on the stiles and rails and these are mitred at the morticed and tenoned joints.

Junctions of astragals are generally half checked, with the mouldings mitred.

Metal doors

These doors generally are constructed in one of three ways: cast as a single unit or

separate frame and panel pieces; metal frame covered with sheet metal; and sheet metal over a

wood or other type of insulating core. Cast-metal doors are relatively high-priced. They are used

principally for monumental structures. Hollow metal doors may be of flush or panel design, with

steel faces. Flush doors incorporate steel stiffeners; or an insulation core. Panel doors may be of

stile-and-rail or stile-and-panel construction with insulated panels.

(Below: types of bracing used for hollow steel doors)

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(Diagram illustrating a typical flushed steel door)

Revolving doors

This type of door is generally selected for entranceways carrying a continuous flow of

traffic without very high peaks. They offer the advantage of keeping interchange of inside and

outside air to a relatively small amount compared with other types of doors. They usually are

used in combination with swinging doors because of the inability to handle large groups of

people in a short period of time. Revolving doors consist of four leaves that rotate about a

vertical axis inside a cylindrical enclosure. Diameter of the enclosure generally is at least 6 ft 6
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in, and the opening to the enclosure usually is between 4 and 5 ft. Revolving doors are mostly

recommended for some types of occupancies; including, for theaters, churches, and stadiums,

because of the limited traffic flow in emergencies. Where they are permitted as exits, revolving

doors have limitations imposed on them by building codes. (Below: Diagrams of a revolving

door).
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Purpose made and Non-standard External Doors

Below are examples of purpose made and non-standard external doors:

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Door Lining
 32

Door Frames

Door frames are available for all standard external doors and can be obtained with a fixed

solid or glazed panel above a door height transom. Door frames are available for doors opening

inwards or outwards. Most door frames are made to the recommendations set out in BS 4787:

Internal and external wood doorsets, door leaves and frames.

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Door Hardware (Ironmongery)

Door Ironmongeries are available in a wide variety of materials, styles and finisher's but will

consist of essentially the same components;

 Hinges or Butts: these are used to fix the door to its frame or lining and to enable it to
pivot about its hanging edge.
 Locks, Latches and Bolts: the means of keeping the door in its closed position and
providing the required degree of security. The handles and cover plates used in
conjunction with locks and latches are collectively called door furniture.
 Letter Plates: these are fitted in external doors to enable letters etc., to be deposited
through the door.

Other items include:

 Finger and Kicking Plates: which are used to protect the door fabric where there is high
usage
 Draught Excluders: which are used to seal the clearance gap around the edges of the door,
and
 Security Chains: which are used to enable the door to be partially opened and thus retain

some security.
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General Installation of a Door

1. Check rough opening for proper size for your door. Make sure the rough opening is

plumb and square.

2. With a 6’-0” level, check floor inside rough opening for level and straightness. There

must be no crown or dip in floor as this will cause improper door and screen operation.

Correct any problems with floor before proceeding.

3. Inspect door to make sure the door panel is on correct side for your installation. If not,

contact your dealer or supplier immediately.

4. Lay down three (3) 1/4” beads of caulk on the floor where the door sill is to set.

5. Run a 1/4” bead of caulk outside of the rough opening behind the area in which the

nailing fin overlays the opening.

6. From outside, insert door into rough opening bottom first. Be sure to set bottom of door

into caulking. DO NOT PUT THE DOOR INTO THE ROUGH OPENING.

7. Center the door in the rough opening and tack the bottom corners of the side nail fins.

Square the entire door by measuring corner to corner then tacking the two upper corners.

8. Loosen nails tacked in upper corners of nail fins on exterior and adjust main frame of

door so that it aligns with door panel.

9. Shim main frame into place.

10. Using 2" roofing nails, nail the pre-punched holes in the jamb fins at 8" to 10" intervals.

DO NOT NAIL EACH HOLE.

11. Make sure the head of the main frame is straight and level and adjust as needed. Using

2" roofing nails, nail the pre-punched holes in the header fin at 8" to 10" intervals. Again,

DO NOT NAIL EACH HOLE.

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12. Inspect door panel operation for smooth swing and proper alignment with master frame.

13. Apply the flashing over the nail fin along jambs first. Then apply flashing to the door

header last. If properly applied, the flashing will eliminate water infiltration and assure a

watertight seal. If sidelites are mulled to the door, a drip cap is required before the

flashing can be applied.

14. Insulate around main frame, but do not over pack as this may bow or distort the frame.

Caulk around perimeter of the patio door inside & outside. Do not caulk over the weep

holes on the exterior sill.


Glossary of terminologies used in the installation of Windows and Doors
WORDS MEANING
Core the inner part of the door.
The external sheets or
boards are fixed to it.
Diagonal joining two vertices of a
rectilinear figure that are
nonadjacent or two
vertices of a polyhedral
figure that are not in the
same face
Drive to impart a forward motion
to by physical force or to
repulse, remove, or cause
to go by force, authority,
or influence
Flushing making two structure,
when put together, have a
smooth continuous surface
Infiltration to cause (as a liquid) to
permeate something by
penetrating its pores or
interstices
Jamb the vertical sidepiece of
the frame fixed to the
surface of the window or
door opening
Layer one thickness, course, or
fold laid or lying over or
under another
Level a device for establishing a
horizontal line or plane by
means of a bubble in a
liquid that shows
adjustment to the
horizontal by movement to
the center of a slightly
bowed glass tube
Lipping is a thin wooden strip that
protects the edges of a
flush door pannel
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WORDS MEANING
Putty knife a special kind of knife
used to place putty
fillings within a material
Frame a solid timber of metal
structure fixed to a wall.
It is constructed so that it
forms a seal when the
door or window closes
and supports their weight
Exterior being on an outside
surface : situated on the
outside: or observable by
outward signs
Distort to twist out of a natural,
normal, or original shape
or condition
Adjust to bring to a more
satisfactory state
Shim a thin often tapered piece
of material (as wood,
metal, or stone) used to
fill in space between
things (as for support,
leveling, or adjustment of
fit)
Crown or dip Crown: any raise is the
natural level of a surface.
Dip: (visa versa)
Watertight of such tight construction
or fit as to be
impermeable to water
except when under
sufficient pressure to
produce structural
discontinuity
Insulate (On next page)
 37

WORDS MEANING WORDS MEANING

Membrane a thin soft pliable sheet or
layer
Opening no enclosing or confining
barrier in a structure
Perpendicular standing at right angles to
the plane of the horizon :
exactly upright or 90̊
Tack to join in a slight or hasty
manner
to separate from
conducting bodies by
means of nonconductors
so as to prevent transfer
of electricity, heat, liquid
or moisture, or sound
Installation to induct into a space or
structure, another
structure (window or
door)
Sill the horizontal member at
the base of an external
door that separates the
internal and external
structure
Tapered to become progressively
smaller toward one end
 38

References

Scott Gibson, This Old House magazine. How to Install a Window - The Old House. Retrieved

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to/step/0,,218006_150067,00.html

Website: Doityouself. Door Installation. Retrieved on November 30, 2010, from

http://www.doityourself.com/scat/doorinstallation

R. Chudley and R. Greeno (2004). e-book: BUILDING CONSTRUCTION HANDBOOK,

Fifth edition.

R. Chudley and R. Greeno (2006). e-book: BUILDING CONSTRUCTION HANDBOOK,

Sixth edition.

Frederick S. Merritt and Jonathan T. Ricketts, editors (2000). e-book: Building design

and construction handbook—6th ed.

The Different Types of Windows, a Complete Window Replacement Guide. Retrieved on

November 27, 2010, from http://www.calfinder.com/library/window/types

Denis Walton (2005). The MOTIVATE series – Building Construction: Principles and Practices.

Retrieved on December 1, 2010.

Merriam-Webster Dictionary: at http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary