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000
INDEX
Page Page
ARROWHEAD STITCH 3 FOUR SIDED STITCH 10
ANTWERP EDGE ... 3 GOBELIN STITCH ... 10
BACK STITCH-THREADED 3 GUILLOCHE STITCH 10
BASKET STITCH 3 GERMAN INTERLACING STITCH 10
BOKHARA COUCHING ... 3 HERRINGBONE STITCH-DOUBLE 10
BRAID STITCH 4 HERRINGBONE STITCH-LACED 10
BUTTONHOLE WHEEL-BARRED 4 HONEYCOMB FILLING 10
BUTTONHOLE WHEEL 4 INDIAN DRAWN GROUND 11
BUTTONHOLE RING PICOT 4 ITALIAN BUTTONHOLE INSERTION 11
CEYLON STITCH 4 INTERLACED BAND STITCH 11
CHAIN STITCH- BROAD ... 4 KNOT STITCH-DOUBLE .•. 11
CHAIN STITCH-DOUBLE 5 LADDER STITCH 12
CHAINED FEATHER STITCH 5 LOOP STITCH 12
CHAIN STITCH-HEAVY 5 OVERCAST-DETACHED 12
CHAIN STITCH-OPEN 5 PEARL STITCH 12
CHAIN-RAISED BAND 5 PLAIT STITCH 12
CHAIN-ROSETTE (1) 5 RAISED BAND-DIAGONAL 12
CHAIN-ROSETTE (2) 6 RAISED BAND-STEM 13
CHAIN STITCH- SINGALESE 6 SAMPLER ON COVER 8
CHAIN STITCH- WHIPPED 6 SCROLL STITCH 13
CHEVRON STITCH ... 6 SHEAF STITCH 13
COUCHING- BUTTONHOLE 6 SINGLE FAGGOT STITCH 14
COUCHING-BATTLEMENTED 6 TWISTED INSERTION STITCH 14
CRETAN STITCH 7 TWISTED LATTICE STITCH 14
CROSS STITCH- DOUBLE .. . 7 VANDYKE STITCH ... 14
ERMINE FILLING 7 WAVE STITCH 14
FISHBONE STITCH-RAISED 7 WOVEN BAND-DIAGONAL 14
FOUR LEGGED KNOT STITCH ... 7 ZIG-ZAG CORAL STITCH 14
Page Two
A RROWHE A D STITCH inserting in top right hand
line at D and emerging
(Diagram 1)
between the first two
stitches on left hand side
This stitch may be used as a line at E. The needle is now
or to make a surface filling. inserted immediately
Bring the needle through at A, below the last stitch on
insert at B and bring through right hand side at F,
again at C. Insert at B again t.hus emerges exactly opposite
making two stitches at right angles and is then taken in and
to each other. Continue along out at the same spot as
line in the same manner. When the two previous stitches
Diagram 1 used as a filling the stitches as shown in diagram. The
should be evenly spaced either dotted lines below show
by counting the th reads or working over regularly spaced the position of subsequent
lines. Diagram 4 stitches, one being taken
forward and then back·
ward each time. Pai rs of double stitches are formed at the
ba~k of the work.
w ·o rk a foundation
of back stitches
along the line to be
covered. The next
process simply
consists of passing
another thread in
and out of the back
stite-hes, either in a
Diagram 3 single line as shown
by the needle, or as
illustrated by the shaded thread, a second inter-
lacing thread may be worked filling in the gaps
left in the first journey. The stitch is used for the
leaves on Sample 1, on this page.
BASKET STITC H
<Diagram 4)
Page Three
BRAIDSTITCH
(Diagram 6)
An effective
treatment ,
useful for
small formal
flower heads.
Work round
the circle in
ordinary
buttonhole Sample Na. 2-Stitches on pages 4. 6. 11 and 14.
stitch, but
when in-
Diagram 7 s e r t i n g CEYLON STITCH
the needle (Diagram 10)
arrange the stitches so that they leave a cross in the centre
A useful filling stitch
formed by the threads of the ground material.
for a formal shape.
Bring the thread up at
the top left hand side
and insert in the
B UTTONHOLE
STITCH WHEEL opposite right hand
side, thus laying a
(Diagram 8) foundation thread.
Bring the needle
This stitch is worked like through again a little
ord inary buttonhole stitch but Dicgram 10 below the starting point
in circular form , each stitch (see A) and work a
being taken into the same series of loops all along the laid thread as shown at top of
central hole. In this way, the diagram . Insert the needle in the right hand margin and
fabric is pulled apart and leaves bring through again a little lower on the left side. Now
quite a large hole in the work a row of loops around those already made in the
centre of the buttonholing. manner illustrated by the needle. Proceed in this way from
It is useful for tiny flowers, left to right until the surface is covered. The stitch may
Diagram 8 as suggested on the diagram. be worked closely or openly
and is very effective worked
in alternate bands of contras t-
ing colour. Used for filling
BUTTONHOLE
PICOT
RING of right hand bellflower on
Sample 2, shown above.
(Diagram 9)
An edging-Buttonhole stitch HAIN STITCH -
is worked along the edge until C BROAD
the spot is reached where the
picot is required : insert (Diagram 11)
needle three or four stitches Bring the needle to the surface
back into edge of buttonholing Diagram 9 at A. Insert a little below
forming a loop with the thread: making a small stitch and bring
draw the loop fairly tight and buttonhole ever this until to the surface again a little
the edge is again reached. Continue buttonholing along lower. Now pass the thread
the edge un-til the next picot is required. behind the running stitch and
Page Four Diagram 11
insert the needle at the point where it last came up . Th is CHAIN STITCH-OPEN
makes the first chain stitch and for all subsequent stitches the (Diagram 15)
need le emerges a little lower each time and is passed behind
the prev ious loop as illustrated Bring the needle up on the left hand
w ithout entering the ground traced line, and take to the back on
fabr ic. Keep the stitches small the right side just opposite ; bring
and let the thread lie fairly through again on the left a little lower.
loose ly on the material. Draw through over the working
thread and insert the needle in the
right hand line , inside the loop just
HAIN STITCH- made, which should be left fairly
C DOUBLE loose. Bring up on the left as before
and continue in t his way te end of
(Diagram 12) line. Diagram 15
The d iagram shows this stitch
q ui te clearly. Bring the needle
out at A at right hand side of
CHAIN-RAISED BAND
double line and take the thread
to left, insert at Band bring out (Diagram 16)
over the thread at C making an A useful border stitch worked on
open chain stitch. In the next a foundation of transverse bars.
st itch the needle is inserted at Space these stitches evenly
Band brought out a little below between the traced lines and
on the left hand side forming a when completed bring the needle
similar stitch to the first one. through in the centre just above
Each stitch is commenced just the top bar. Pass the needle under
inside the previous one and is this bar from below upwards,
worked alternately from right bringing it out to the left. Now
to left for the length required . Diagram 12 work the loop stitch in the manner
illustrated . Work in this way over
each bar to end of line. If a wide
HAINED barid is required several rows of
C FEATHER the chain can be worked side by
side on the bars ; two colours
(Diagram 13) are frequently employ-ed for this
stitch .
Bring thread Diagram 16
through at top
left hand corner
and work a chain
stitch in a HAIN
slanting C ROSETTE (1 )
direction, as
shown lower (Diagram 17)
down on Thili is worked from
diagram. Next right to left. A useful
insert needle in stitch for working
Diagram 13 same slanting formal patterns partic-
direction a little u 1-arly adaptable for
lower down and bring it out higher up on the right on level curved lines. Bring the
with base of first chain stitch. Continue working from side Diagram 17 needle up on the top
to side until the line is completed. traced line (A) take the
thread across to the left form ing a loop as shown and hold
down with the left thumb. Insert the needle as shown at
HAIN STITCH - HEAVY left of diagram and pull through over the working thread .
C Now pass the needle under the thread as at B and continue
(Diagram 14)
with the next stitch.
Bring the needle out at the top
of the line to be worked and make
a small running stitch. Bring the
needle out a little beyond this and
thread it back under the running
stitch and insert it where it last Drawn Ground Stitches given in this book are :-
came out. Let it emerge again Four Sided Stitch .
just beyond, and thread it again
under the running stitch taking it Ho111eycomb Filling.
back into the material where it Indian Drawn Ground .
last came out. There are now Raised Band • Diagonal.
two chain loops, one inside the Single Faggot Stitch .
other and both caught down
under the same running stitch. Canvas Stitches given are: -
The needle now emerges a little
further beyond and passes this Cross Stitch - Double.
t ime under two loops instead of Gobelin St itch.
t he running st itch . Plait Stitch.
Diag ram 14 Page Five
c HAIN ROSETTE (2)
(Diagram 18~ C
HEVRON
STITCH
(Diagram 21)
Rosette chain is very suitable
for working tiny flower heads Working from
(2). The petals should be left to right
spaced evenly round a small bring the needle
circle, each radiating from the through on the
same spot in the centre of the lower line.
flower. Insert a little to
Diagram 21 the right and
bring through
again exactly half way back to the starting point (see A).
Next insert the needle on the upper line towards the right.
Diagram 18 Bring through a little to the left (B) and insert again on the
right making a stitch as on lower line. The needle now
emerges where it first entered the upper line (C) and
continues to work alternately on the upper and lower lines
in this manne.r. This stitch may be threaded with a con-
trasting colour exactly as described for twisted lattice.
COUCHING- BUTTONHOLE
HAIN STITCH - (Diallram 22) .
C SINGALESE
This is one of the many
(Diagram 19) methods of holding down a
This is worked as open chain, surface thread with an
but over two contrasting on:linary stitch, in this
coloured threads. These are instance buttonhole. It is
brought up one at each side at used here as a filling for a
top of double traced line, the flower form. First lay a
open chain being worked over thread across the shape,
them in a lighter coloured near the top. Then work a
thread: the contrasting row of open buttonhole
threads can be loosely pinned stitch over this , tying it
further down the lines to keep down. Again lay a thread
them in place whilst working. across the shape below the
Begin the open chain by prev ious stitchery and
bringing the lighter thread when working the button-
through at top left hand side hole stitch over this , let the Diagram 22
just below the contrasting one. needle pass behind the purl
The light thread is passed to edge of the last row. It is not essential for the needle to
the left and under both the Diagram 19
enter the material except at the margins. This stitch is
other threads an d is inserted shown as an outline round the fillings and also for the filling
in the right hand side exactly opposite and inside the on right hand shape on Sample 1, page 3.
contrasting thread-bringing the needle out a little lower
down on left hand Vine-see diagram for position of threads
and needle. This process is repeated for each stitch . This COUCHING- BATTLEMENTED
stitch can also be used for filling small leaf shapes, the stitches
(Diagr.am 23)
widening across the centre in ladder effect. The leaves
on Sample No. 2 are worked in this stitch . A handsome co1,Jched filling worked in four colours. With
first colour lay a perfectly even diagonal trellis (whi.te in
diagram). Repeat w i'th each successive colour .lay the threads
alongside those previously laid . When completed couch
down the last
set of th reads
where they
intersect with a
tiny stitch of
contrasting
HAIN STITCH - colour . The
C WHIPPED threads will be
(Diagram 20) interwoven
correctly if each
A simple stitch usually ex- colour is laid
ecuted in two colours. First a first i.n one and
foundation of chain stitch is then the other
worked along the line. This direction. The
is afterwards whipped with diagram shows
another thread by passing the the s-titch in its
needle behind each chain stitch varying stages,
without allowing it to enter Diagram 20 the upper
the ground fabric. The stitch portion be ing
is used very effectively on the bird on Sample 3, see page 7. quite complete.
Page Six Diagram 23
CRETAN STITCH ERMINE FI LLI N G
(Diagram 24) (Diagram 26
Diagram 26
ROSS STITCH
II II II II 1111 C D O U BLE
NI~ NII~ NII~
~ ~
lb
.. !:f.'11~
~
~·~
1111
(Diagram 25)
--
(Diagram 27)
lllNll~
~ ~
Nil~
z•~
~
- -z~·~- ordinary cross stitch first,
then an upright cross $titch
over it as shown on lower
Commence by
bringing needle up
part of diagram. Dots at point 1 inserting
~r1..:."" show vertical position of it at 2 and bringing it
..,= ~-· """" a:
~
FOUR LEGGED
KNOT STITCH
(Diagram 28)
r\ Buttonhole Whed 2. @
J\o s~tt e Ch~in 2. @
521 , back 543, 669.
BOY.- Trousers in honeycomb filling , lay the firs t two
sets of bars over the lines given in 487, the final interlacing
is in 795 (6 strands) . Jacket laid lines of 669 w ith button-
Twisted L~ttice 1. ® holing in 543 worked over them ; belt Black. For both
figures work the flesh with one strand of each of the
follow ing colou rs in the need le 818, 543, 542. Shoes, satin stitch 669. Eyes Black French knots.
LEAVES.-Small ones at base of right hand tree are 521 w ith 507 beneath. Large leaves at base of
left hand tree have the broad chain in 498, 773, 521 and 507 ; base lines 816 at left, and 816 with 498 at
each end for the other.
FISH.-Heads and bodies 543, outlines 669, work the raised fishbone stitch in 3 strands.
NAVY BAND AT BASE.-Foundation 605, surface stitching 532, the threaded back st itch beneath
in 532 threaded with a single line of 507. The guilloche stitch has the satin stitch , stem stitch and
French knots in 773 (3 strands) w ith the interlacing 487 (6 strands). The barred buttonhole wheels
are 543, buttonhole wheels 542, straight stitches 821 , detached overcast line 818.
When completed press on the wrong side with a hot iron over a damp cloth.
Page Nine
FOUR SIDED
STITCH
Another row
of herring-
bone is now
(Diagram 29)
worked
A drawn fabric between the
stitch. Bring needle first stitches
out at A insert at B - this time
and bring out at C : the needle is
now insert at A and slipped under
bring out at D finally the light
inserting at B and stitch on its
emerging at C. The Diagram 29 way to the
needle is next top line-see
inserted at D and brought out three threads to the left of diagram - the
C : C and D corresponding to A and B on first stitch. needle again
Continue in this manner along the row, rows of crosses being slipped
being formed on the wrong side. This makes a very useful under the
border stitch : a thread is sometimes drawn out at top and top stitch as
bottom of the row to give a more open effect. Diagram 32 for the light
thread .
Lower diagram shows the interlacing stitch: this is worked
II
-+lJlll
II I
G OBELIN STITCH over a foundation of double herringbone. Commence by
bringing needle up at arrow : use a blunt pointed one and
.,,,
rll..
~ ~
rZJ 'HJ
... ....:
~,
(Diagram 30)
INDIAN DRAWN GROUND STITCH needle at right hand side a little lower down at 3 ;
(Diagram 35) now take the thread over to the left and insert a little
lower still at 4 emerging under the edge of the material,
but bringing the thread out over the stitch being made ;
A drawn fabric stitch. four buttonhole stitches are now worked from centre
Commence as at 1 on outwards over the two threads at 3, the thread being next
diagram bringing needle out inserted lower down on the same side. Take the thread
at A inserting it three to the left and work four buttonhole stitches over the two
threads to the left at B threads at 4 from centre outwards-a similar group is being
and bringing it out three commenced lower down on diagram : the thread is then
threads above a~ C : insert inserted and brought out lower down beneath 4 and four
again three threads to the buttonh9ie stitches worked over the right hand threads.
right at D emerging at A. The stitches are worked alternately from side to side down
The next movement is as the border, the needle being inserted equidistant at the
2 on diagram, taking the edges after each group has been worked.
needle in at B and out at
C over stitches previously
made : now insert the
needle three threads to the
left emerging three threads
above-see dot an d arrow
-insert again three threads I NTERLACED
STITCH
BAND
Diagram 35 to the right emerging at C : (Diagram 37)
C corresponds to A on
diagram and the stitch repeats from here, the pull of the A decorative border line
thread forming little circles, see lower diagram . When one effective in two colours.
row is completed turn the work upside down to commence First work back stitching
the next row : this is worked with its back tc the previous along each of the traced
one and uses some of the same holes. For worked effect Diagram 37 lines. Do not place the
see page 13. stitches exactly opposite
each other but arrange them brick fashion as shown in the
diagram. Next interlace a second thread around these, as
rALIAN BUTTONHOLE IN SERTION STITCH illustrated by the needle, working alternately on the upper
(Diagram 36) and lower lines.
A beautifully decorative
stitch for joining two
\ edges together and one
that is extremely simple KNOT STITCH- DOUBLE
to work in spite of its (Diagram 38)
rather complicated
appearance. A decorative line sti tch worked
First of all tack the two from left to right. Bring the
edges of material to stlfi needl e through and take a small
paper, leaving a space slanting stitch as at A. Pass the
of at least half an inch needle under the surface stitch
betwee n them. Bring and then again pass it under, this
needle through material time making a loop stitch by
at point 1, take it over drawing through over the working
to left and insert at 2 thread as illustrated. Make an-
emerging under the other foundation stitch as at .A.
edge of the material. and continue in this way to end
Work four or five of line. The stitch is used for
buttonhole stitches over the stems and outline of bell-
this thread, then insert Diagram 36 Diagram 38 flowers on Sample No. 2, page 4.
Page Eleven
LADDER STITCH PEARL STITCH
(Diagram 39) (Diagram 42)
LOOP STITCH
(Diagram 40)
Page Twelve
RAISED BAND-STEM
(Diagram 45)
SCROLL STITCH
(Diagram 46)
Several attractive borders may be devised by working lines
of scroll stitch in opposite directions. The stitch is worked
from left to right and the thread emerges at the end of the
Single Faggot.
Dia.
46 (See Diagram 48)
HEAF
S STITCH
(Diagram 47)
An important
border stitch
admirably
suitable for
Diagram 47 Page Thirteen
representing tree stems. First lay t ransverse threads in pairs These stitches are indicated
at regular intervals along the border. Then bring the needle by shaded ones in the diagram.
up at A just under the lowest bars and pass it over th e A thread is now woven in and
2nd pair of bars ; now return to the lowest bars and oot of the crossed foundation
work ing from left to right wind the thread around these, threads, commen~ing at arrow .
two pairs until they are covered . Continue by winding the It will be seen that after the
same thread around the 2nd and 3rd pairs of bars , working first row has been worked
from right to left and dovetailing the stitches with those two stitches meet over the
below as illustrated. Proceed to end of border, working i nter se cting foundation
over successive bars, alternately from left to right and right stitches. This stitch may be
to left. The next stage of the stitch is worked where the used very effectively to fill
vertical threads meet over the bars. Bring up the needle spaces in cutwork, but in
at B in diagram, pass it behind the transverse bars to the this case the foundation stitches
left of the two endmost vertical threads ; pull through until should be placed closer to-
only a small loop is left, pass the needle through this as gether. The filling is used on
illustrated and pull tightly. Repeat over each pair of upright the left hand shape on Sample
threads across the band so that all are firmly secured . When 1, page 3.
passing up to the next pair of bars where the knotting D iag ram 50 For a border the foundation
process is again worked, bunch the vertical threads into a stitches are ordinary herring-
sheaf at the centre by bind ing with two satin stitches. bone st itch and the thread is woven in and out of the crossed
threads as in lower diagram .
,.m!.!~~i..
,
, emerged, now insert
again at the starting
point and bring out
threads of the previous
stitch and inserted on
right hand side a little
four to left as 2 on below the previous
d ia gram . Repeat stitch . The needle then
, passes under the
these movements to
end of row pulling material and emerges a
the thread tightly little lower down on
Diagram 48 each time ; turn the left hand side in same
work upside down manner as 4 and 5.
and work another row alongside the first, using some of the These stitches are re-
same holes. These rows are repeated , see lowe r portion of peated over the shape
diagram : dotted lines indicate the thread at the back of or border-the crossed
the work. For wo r ked effect see page 13. stitches forming an even
plait down centre of
Diagram 51 shape.
TWISTED INSERTION STITCH - FAGGOTING
(Diagram 49) WAVE STITCH
(Diagra m 52)
Tack the two edges to
be joined on to stiff A useful stitch for shading. The st itches are shown open
paper leaving about a for clearness in the diagram , but should really be worked
quarter of an inch space close together so that no material shows between. Commence
between. Begin at left with a row of satin stitches across the top of the shape-
hand side bringing shown by light stitches
need le from beneath top in diagram. The next
edge, insert a little to row (shaded stitches)
the right beneath lower commences at right
edge, pull through and hand side as shown by
twist needle round top arrow, and the
thread as shown in needle is looped
diagram . Diagram 49 through base of firs t
satin stitch , taken below
on level w ith arrow and
WISTED LATTICE STITCH picks up a t iny piece of
T (Diagram 50)
material : this is re-
peated u nti I row is
A very useful filling stitch, or it may be worked as a border complete. Th ird row
as shown in lower part of diagram. commences at
For the filling threads are laid diagonally across the shape, lower arrow and the
first in one direction and then in the other : the second thread is looped
set must be woven under and over the first ones as in darning. Diagram 52 through the end of the
Page Fourteen
Basket Stitch.
first stitch : the needle taken into the material below and Open Chain.
then looped through the base of the next two stitches .
This process is repeated on all subsequent rows . The stitch
is used to fill the left hand bellflower on Sample 2, page 4. Chain-Raised Band.
Rosette Stitch.
W OVEN BAND -
DIAGONAL Chain-Double.
(Diagram 53)
Commence by work i ng
horizontal stitches a short Chained Feather.
distance apart along the length
of the band . Contrasting
coloured threads are required
for the weaving which will be Cretan Stitch.
referred to as light and dark.
Thread two needles (one with
each colour) and bring both
through the material at the Chevron Stitch.
same spot at top of band as
marked by arrow on diagram ,
the lighter thread to the left.
The needle with the light Zig-Zag Coral.
thread is slipped under the
first bar and left lying-the
Diagram 53 needle with the dark thread Double Knot.
being slipped over the first
bar and under the second, at
the same time keeping the needle under the light thread .
The dark thread is then left lying and the light thread passed
over the second bar and under the third, the needle being Guilloche Stitch.
kept under the dark thread . The next stage is shown in
diagram, the light thread left lying and the dark thread
being taken over the third bar and under the fourth . These
movements are continued to the bottom of the band. The
next row commences at the top as before but the dark Herringbone- ·
thread is slipped under the first bar and the light over Double.
it and under the second-see diagram.
The band is completed by each row being commenced
alternately with the light and dark threads on top and Herringbone- Laced.
sufficient rows should be worked to completely cover the
foundation cross-bars. The weaving threads should be long
enough to cover the band without a join . If liked the band
may be given a more raised effect by laying long straight Interlaced Band.
stitches beneath the cross bars.
Ladder Stitch.
111111/llllllllllHI 11111111
Z IG·STITCH
ZAG CORAL
Loop Stitch.
(Diagram 54)