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Samuel Black

12/7/2013

Professor Susan Webster

ARTH 396

Connections of Incan and Chimu Textiles

The cultures of the Andean region from afar can appear as different and diverse as

tomatoes to potatoes. Upon closer inspection one can realize that along with these

differences they also share traits that tie them together in a greater way. This paper will

be discussing the textiles of the cultures of the Inca and the Chimu, especially hoping to

dissect the forms, quality, and functions of their creations. Inca and Chimu shared

similarities in the textile arena, in regards to how they were made, design motifs, and

functional purposes.

The Inca at their height, were one of the strongest empires of their era; with vast

amounts of land, wealth, and a large population. In regards to textiles, in Incan culture

textiles were highly valued, in one situation at the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors;

textiles were first given to the conquistadors before Gold or any other precious item.

Incan weavers were known especially for their technical excellence. It is mentioned in

Stones book referring to their weaving, “a preoccupation and occupation of all.” Weaving

in Incan society can be likened to reading in the United States today, at least hopefully.

Everyone in Incan culture knew how to weave at different skill levels, which was

regulated by the government.

The Chimu’s quality of textile production like the Inca was very high and in some

cases the finished products were used as monetary forms of currency. Chimu textiles

were created using a method of weaving called spinning. In truth spinning was very
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painstaking and took extreme skill and care, but the finished product was of amazing

quality and beauty. In Chimu culture, textiles were sometimes inlaid with gold and very

colorful feathers to make them even more alluring and valuable.

In regards to what symbols and images the Inca used in their textile design; the

images reflected heavily on the socio-cultural hierarchy of the Incans. The patterns and

designs in Incan textile, not like other cultures, were not meant purely for beauty

purposes only, but were meant to relay important messages about the people, mission,

and purpose of the people wearing the garments. The symbolic designs of the Incan

textiles were indicative of a person’s ethnic identity as well as that person’s social rank.

For example, in one particular one sees in a tunic that it has small squares with other

smaller tunics in patterns (ex.1). These squares could hold something in regards to some

part of that person’s life and other hidden meanings. In Incan tunics the motif of the

diagonal key (ex.2) is often used and repeated, its meaning is still unknown to today’s

archaeologists. In Chimu culture the symbols and designs hold meaning as well.

Chimu textile imagery used relatively simple, yet bold designs. Considering that

the Chimu civilization was mainly a coastal civilization, as one can guess aquatic

symbols, birds and fish (ex.3) were prominent pictures used in their textiles. The

Chimu’s geographical location also played a part in the color choices of the weavers,

blues, and other earth tones such as maure, shadier of tan, dark browns among other were

prominent in their textiles. Very beautiful and highly decorative designs were reserved

exclusively for the wealthy aristocracy of Chimu society. A design motif incorporated

onto Chimu textiles were frontal crescent–headdress figures, periodically used to depict

the upper class and royalty in living color. Incan textiles served not only to cover their

bodies, but also the clothing also held functional life purposes.
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First, Incan textiles held three very important purposes, first monetary, second

religious, and third militarily. The owning of finely weaved Incan textiles were a means

for the government to tax the owners; reflecting how valuable the textiles were valued by

others. Textiles served as offerings to gods in religious and shamanic ceremonies . The

best and most colorful garments were draped around the statutes of gods as a show of

respect and honor to the god-like statues. Finally the textiles and garments served a

military purpose similar to that of the Nazis during World War II; the shock and awe

effect of 10,000 or more soldiers in the same or similarly designed outfit had a great

effect on their opponents. For the Incas the tunics and textiles were a constant reminder

of individual’s social place. The Chimu used textiles in a similar fashion, in their daily

life.

Textiles in Chimu culture were used very similarly to Incan culture. The articles

of clothing worn by people held hidden messages about not only the person’s family

lineage and exploits but about that person’s role. A key difference to be noted between

Chimu an Inca is the choice of symbols chosen for garments and textiles. Garments in

chimu culture were like the Incas, highly tradable and valuable. It has been discovered

by recent studies that the symbols, patterns and other motifs can in some cases display

messages and complex meanings otherwise only perceived as just decorative displays.

In conclusion, the Chimu and the Inca are more closely tied than originally

thought. Textiles were used in many different ways in these societies. They served as

calling cards for rulers, delineated what was a persons role in the community and served

as power tools to intimidate enemies of the state in warfare. Chimu and Inca’s use of

symbols differed due to changes over time and preference. The conception of the value

of textiles remained consistent throughout both the Inca and Chimu societies. With these
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many connections it is very much like looking at a continuation of the last group rather

than a totally new group of people, which always reflects the human condition.

Work Cited

Rebecca R. Stone. “Art of the Andes ( World of Art)” Emory University Press. Atlanta

Georgia, P.2002 50-250. Print.

Chimu Textile, Peru , Alpaca wool and cotton. Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Ex. 1
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Ex. 2
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Ex. 3