CHAPTER 2

REVIEW AND RELATED LITERATURE

Different Colors and Varieties of Gumamela

There are different varieties and color of Gumamela flower such as purple,

bright red, orange, fuchsia, white, hot pink, vivid pink, deep orange, reddish-purple,

reddish-orange, peach, yellow, yellowish-pink and reddish-white. These flowers prefer

to a direct bright sunlight and cool night temperature, and have a height more than 14

feet tall.

According to Logee’s Greenhouses,Ltd (2019) a fertilizer like Dyna Gro “Grow”

7-9-5 will help induce blooms. Under high light and warm temperatures, they are heavy

feeders and need a balanced fertilizer applied on a regular basis. It’s a fast grower

with outstanding vigor, and under a sunny exposure, it flowers freely throughout the

year. Under certain environmental conditions, flowers will be purple and red only

without the white spotting. A super plant for the potted container that brings the

gardener an eye-catching subject.

According to Missouri Botanical Garden (2017), the common name of pink for

plants in the genus Dianthus is in probable reference to the fringed flower petal

margins and not to flower color. Dianthus is a genus of over 300 species from Europe

and north Asia to Japan. They are grown for their attractive, often fragrant, flowers.

Many hybrids, often of complex parentage, have been made resulting in tens of

thousands of cultivars.

Genus name comes from the Greek words “dios” meaning divine and “Anthos”

meaning flower. ‘Horatio’ is a low-growing hybrid pink cultivar. Linear, grass-like, blue-

green foliage typically forms a mound to 6-8” tall and 15-24” wide. Double, fringed,
rose pink flowers with maroon center rings appear mid-spring to early summer, with

some sparse rebloom sometimes occurring throughout summer into fall.

Based on Warhol (2015), Hibiscus fragilis, the mandrinette, is an extremely rare

shrub that is endemic to steep slopes of the mountains Corps de Garde and Le Morne

Brabant on Mauritius and from two further plants on Rodrigues. The mandrinette is an

evergreen plant with flowers 7–10 cm diameter with five bright pink to carmine red

petals. Based on Britannica (2018), the mandrinette looks rather similar to the Chinese

hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) and the introduction of that to Mauritius as a garden

plant is one of the main reasons for the dramatic decline of the mandrinette. Only 46

mature individuals exist in the wild but they are not able to reproduce due to

competition from and hybridisation with this invasive Hibiscus species. Royal Botanic

Gardens, Kew is attempting to reproduce seedlings of the species, with the help of Ex-

situ conservation, for reintroduction into the wild now that efforts to remove the

invasive hibiscus have been successful.

Warhol (2015), made prints titled "Flowers" of the mandrinette with petals in

different colors based on a photograph by the nature photographer Patricia Caulfield,

published in the June 2017 issue of the magazine Modern Photography. According to

Strahm (2017), the East African hibiscus (H. schizopetalus), a drooping shrub with

deeply lobed red petals, is often grown in hanging baskets indoors. Other members of

the genus Hibiscus include the fiber plants mahoe and kenaf, okra, musk mallow, rose

of Sharon, and many flowering plants known by the common name mallow. The

tropical Chinese hibiscus, or China rose (H. rosa-sinensis), which may reach a height

of 4.5 meters (15 feet), rarely exceeds 2 meters (6.5 feet) in cultivation. It is grown for

its large, somewhat bell-shaped blossoms.

 Based on Anderson (2010), Hibiscus mutabilis is a deciduous Shrub growing

to 3 m (9ft) by 3 m (9ft). It is hardy to zone (UK) 8 and is frost tender. It is in flower

from August to October, and the seeds ripen from September to November. The

species is hermaphrodite (has both male and female organs) and is pollinated by

Insects. It cannot grow in the shade. It prefers moist soil. Bushy shrubs or small trees,

about 2-6 m tall. Stems woody, branchlets densely pubescent with stellate hairs,

intermixed with wooly pubescent simple copious glandular hairs.

Cosmic dancer is a popular variety of Tropical hibiscus, which belongs to the

Hibiscus genus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Cosmic dancer'). The mature flowers take a

Single form, with an approximate petal count of 5. Cosmic dancer Tropical hibiscus

needs a moderate amount of maintenance, so some level of previous experience

comes in handy when growing this plant. Ensure that you are aware of the soil, sun,

ph. and water requirements for this plant and keep an eye out for pests. Cosmic

Dancer Cajun hibiscus is no tiny dancer and known for its shrub-like growing habit. Its

big bad flowers bloom a swirl of colors starting with maroon at the center, fading to a

gorgeous pink, and then finishing at the tips with orangish-yellow hue. Big Bad

Flowwer (2019).

According to Flower Picture (2012), Pink Sleeping Hibiscus, is a rare evergreen

perennial tree like shrub with green foliage, upright pink, tubular, unopened flowers

and the origin of Southeastern United States. It can grow up to 15 feet tall. It is so

named because of its flowers which look like unopened Hibiscus flowers. It is a

spreading shrub to 2-3 m high. Stems densely clothed in stellate hairs. Leaves are

densely clothed in velvety to tough hairs, ovate to nearly circular, heart-shaped, not

lobed or shallowly 3-lobed. The stems are green and sometimes sparsely hairy when

young, but quickly become hairless. They turn greyish in colour and become woody
as they mature. Flowers are borne solitary or few in fascicles, in leaf axils. Petals are

scarlet. There also exists a pink cultivar called 'Rosea'. Flowers are pendulous, 2-3

inches long. Sleeping Hibiscus requires full sun or partial shade, however if grown in

partial shade you may sacrifice some flowers because of the reduced light.

The flowers of H. tiliaceus are bright yellow with a deep red center upon opening.

Over the course of the day, the flowers deepen to orange and finally red before they

fall. The branches of the tree often curve over time. Its approximately reaches a height

of 4–10 m (13–33 ft), with a trunk up to 15 cm (5.9 in) in diameter. A shrubby tree

widely distributed along tropical shores. The leaves are heart shaped and deep red in

the var rubra.

The Tropical Hibiscus Charlies Angels white with dark magenta is a huge white

flower with ruffled perimeter and dark red center. Flowers are 9 inches (23 cm) in

diameter and truly spectacular. Compact growth habit and outstanding variety.

According to Weebly (n.d.), the Hibiscus Acetosella - Red Hibiscus is a dark red flower

about 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide open along stems during the day. Fast growing shrub

with upright, dark red stems 3 to 4 feet (1 -1.2 meter) high and 4 to 6 feet (1.2 - 1.8

meter) wide. Pruning promotes dense, neat appearance. Great substitute for

Japanese maple in southern California where these suffers from salinity "burn". Grow

in full sun.It is also striking, reddish-purple leaved Hibiscus species that leaves a

palmately lobed with serrated margins giving the appearance of a Japanese maple

(Multiflora Enterprises, n.d.).

Components of Gumamela Flowers

Based on the study of Zhu (n.d.), hibiscus rosa-sinensis has different

components. It is reported that it yields hisbiscetin, polyphenols, flavonoids, and

anthocyanin. These components promote wound healing and immune-modulating.

One of the main components of gumamela flower is Calcium (Ca) with 4mg, some

studies suggested that it should along with Vitamin D and it will benefit beyond bone

health (Mayo Clinic Staff, 2018). Further, Phosphorus with 27mg, phosphorus is the

second most plentiful mineral in our body and first is Calcium (Madell, 2015).

Furthermore, gumamela flower has 1.7mg of Iron and according to Fergon (n.d.), when

there is not enough hemoglobin in the body, nails don’t get enough oxygen to stay

healthy. With this, Iron is needed since it is essential to the proper function of

hemoglobin and it is necessary nutrient for maintaining healthy nails as well.

Uses of Gumamela Flower

Due to components of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis` flower it can be used as

shampoo that can enhance hair growth and treatment of hair and scalp. Hibiscus

purple magic creates a stunning flower with colors: purple, red and white as it flowers

freely throughout the year. It`s a fast grower under a sunny exposure resulting to an

eye-catching flower. Hibiscus flower ranges from woody shrubs to small trees and it

has different colors. Also, it has food additive properties and can be used for different

purposes.

Gumamela colors are natural and safe as a food coloring agent. The color of

gumamela is the result of anthocyanin. Anthocyanin is the color of gumamela that can

be used as color agent on other food that require red color.

 Nowadays, we would like to use herbs as an alternative medicinal purpose. We

usually worry about medical expenses, now, we do not have to worry much because

of the existing herbs like hibiscus flower. According to Herbalist and Scientist (2016),

the whole plant (gumamela) is used for healing. Hibiscus root is used for coughs, colds

and other infectious diseases while the leaves are emollient and aperient which soften

inflammation. Hibiscus flower with 5 petals are known to have medicinal properties.

The root of hibiscus can calm the mucous membranes of digestive and respiratory

tracts (Tan, 2015). Also, hibiscus flower as medicine, it has following medicinal

characteristics: expectorant, diuretic, emollient, anti-infectious, anti-inflammatory,

antipyretic, anodyne, and refrigerant (Philippine Herbal Medicine, (n.d.). One of

example of hibiscus as medicinal is the application of Palms (2016) which is entitled

“Amazing Health Benefits of Hibiscus Tea”. It shows different benefits like anti-

inflammatory and antibacterial properties, hibiscus tea prevents you from catching

cold and flu, it also used to treat discomfort caused by fever, as to its cooling effect.

According to Nature’s Garden (2018), hibiscus flower can be used as natural

colorant in cosmetics application and skincare products to give tone, texture, soothe,

and softens skin. Hibiscus flower used in haircare products and skincare products

because of its different components. Hibiscus flowers listed as a natural source of

alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) which exfoliate, speed up cell resurgence, control

breakouts, and improve the resilience of our skin.

History of Nail Polish

According to Segran (2014), aristocratic women in ancient China has the

earliest known beauty rituals which they would soak their nails in the mixture of egg

whites, beeswax, gelatin, and gum Arabic. Also, they used the extract of a flower such

as roses and orchids as coloring agents. And then, in the time of Babylonian,

Archeologist found a manicure kit inside the tomb of soldiers, warriors used kohl

especially the color of black and green to strike fear into their enemies (Segran, 2014).

Consequently, according to Segran (2014), After the Babylonian Era, Cleopatra was

the first to apply color to the nail by the used of blood red with plant extracts during 50

BCE.

When it comes to the U.S Era, Mary Cobb opened America’s first manicure

parlor in Manhattan throughout the year of 1878. While in 1932, Revlon began using

pigments rather than dyes in polishes, making it possible to develop new shades.

Following this, Flappers flocked to the products and popularized the “moon manicure”

painting the middle of the nail and exposing the crescents at the tips and the base.

Consequently, during 1976, Jeff Pink, an American makeup artist for the Hollywood

stars, developed the color combination because he needed a nail look that would

match the actors’ wardrobe, he called it the “French manicure” as an homage to the

original nail polishes across the pond. Then, during 1917, Cutex manufactured the first

modern liquid nail polish. Nitrocellulose, the product’s main ingredient, it also used to

make car paint and film celluloid. Later on, in the year of 1957, dentist Frederick Slack

broke a nail at work. Using aluminum foil and dental acrylic from his dental laboratory,

he spades a faux nail and applied it to his finger. Finally, in the year 2003, OPI created

Pawlish, a line of nail lacquer for dogs, to cater to groomers giving furry friends “pet-i-

cures”.
 Nowadays, nail polish is evidently different from the ancient ones. It doesn’t

signify social classes anymore and its components are very much modernized by new

discoveries. It is sold in liquid form placed in small bottles and is applied with a tiny

brush. Within a few minutes after application, the substance hardens and forms a shiny

coating in the fingernail that is both water and chip resistant. Generally, a coating of

nail polish may last several days before it begins to chip and fall off. It can also be

removed manually by applying nail polish remover, a substance designed to break

down and dissolve the polish. Aside from that, nail polish is also a suspension product

in which particles of color can only be held by the solvent for a relatively short period

of time, rarely more than two or three years. Shaking the bottle of nail polish before

using it helps to restore settled particles to the suspension; a very old bottle of nail

polish may have so much settled pigment that it can never be restored to the solvent.

The problem of settling is perhaps the most difficult to be addressed in the

manufacturing process (Berlow, 2011).

Components of Nail Polish

There is no basic formula for a nail polish but there are components that are

necessarily present in it. These include: film forming agents, resins and plasticizers,

solvents, toluene and coloring agents. The primary ingredient in nail polish is

nitrocellulose (cellulose nitrate) cotton that acts as a filming agent. It is a flammable

and explosive ingredient also used in making dynamite. Furthermore, it is a liquid

mixed with tiny, near-microscopic cotton fibers. On the other hand, Synthetic resins

and plasticizers are being added to the mixture to improve flexibility, resistance to soap

and water, and other qualities. Because of the number of desired qualities involved,

however, there is no single resin or combination of resins that meets every

specification. Among the resins and plasticizers in use today are castor oil, amyl and

butyl stearate, and mixes of glycerol, fatty acids, and acetic acids. Solvents are used

to hold or contain the colorings and other components until the polish is applied. It

must be able to evaporate after the application process. In many cases, the solvent

also acts a plasticizer. Butyl stearate, acetate and toluene compounds are perhaps

the most common. Butyl stearate and acetate are also irritants that can cause

respiratory problems (Liu, 2015). Although toluene is a solvent added to polish in order

to keep pigments from separating so as to create that desired smooth finish however ,it

can cause skin irritant, which can also affect the central nervous system — causing

weakness and mental confusion amongst other effects — and high levels may even

carry reproductive and developmental risks (Putois, 2017). Finally, the polish must

have a color. Early polishes used soluble dyes, but for current study the product

contains pigments of gumamela flower extract. Choice of pigment and its ability to mix

well with the solvent and other ingredients is essential to producing a good quality

product.

Uses of Nail Polish

According to Curley (2017), nail polish trend to protect the nail by giving it a

smooth and sturdy coating, and also to make a shield on the top of a nail by preventing

it from splitting in order to grow the nail. The uses of natural oils and vitamins such as

Vitamin E and wild rose botanical extract can produce a strength and dehydrate to

prevent the nail from infection. In order to protect the nails, cosmetics manufacturers

invented a SPF top-coat, a clear finishing layer that can protects any nails polish from

the sun.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Natural Nail Polish

Natural ingredients won’t be toxic as it always goes more beneficial as it also

works according to how the environment and its people should be treated. Small

decisions can actually have an unintended consequences and it is time to make little

changes that anyone can handle than going for the big ones that can’t be solved as it

is time to make a stand (Barbor, 2019). However, according “Hancourt Health” (2015),

to if it doesn’t include any artificial ingredients or preservatives, then the product is

listed as natural but some chemicals might still come inside. Organic products had

undergone the process to make sure that they are pure. If a product contains at least

95 percent organic ingredients, then it means that the product is listed as organic as

to achieve this label, ingredients must been produced without any use of chemical or

synthetic pesticides as they aren’t allowed to have undergone genetic modification as

you consider that there is a difference between ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ labels.

The use of plant extracts in products can be beneficial for specific skin issues

as olive leaf extracts contains properties that can kill off bacteria. In addition, argan oil

is derived from Moroccan tree fruit and contains Vitamin E to smooth hair as well as

soothe skin as natural products can give the most benefit to you as they contain

botanical extracts (“New Ecologist”, 2018).

However, according to “Hancourt Health” (2015), inspect ingredients lists so that you’ll

exactly what you’re putting on your skin and into your body. Looking past at the pretty

packaging and wording to dig a little deeper into your products as you want start using

products on your face and body that are processed and filled with natural ingredients.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Synthetic Nail Polish

According to Bradley (2016), people will give you their first impression when

they see your hand and face first. It is aesthetically pleasing if you have a nice hand

but unkempt nails may allow people think that you have a messy life. He also says

that nail polish can covers your flaws and unattractive fingernails and toenails. On the

other hand, as stated by Mujumdar (2014), numerous cheap nail paints have high

amount of toxic substance which are dangerous for health like phthalates, toluene and

formaldehydes. They are also known as “toxic-trio”. (Quach, 2015). Similar to the study

of Unknown (2015), he stated that nail polish has various ingredients that are

poisonous like formaldehyde, dibutyl phthalate and toluene and Quach (2015), he

says that nail care products has a high amount of toxic substance and hazardous

ingredients. In addition, chemical ingredients can cause cancer such as formaldehyde

that disrupt hormones. (Quach, 2015). According to Quach (2015), toluene is a solvent

that keeps the color and creates the last coat. It also affects the central nervous system

and cause reproductive harm. Formaldehyde is also known as “carcinogen”. Is used

as nail-hardening agent and disinfectant for nail care tools. Dibutyl Phthalate is used

to provide flexibility that linked to reproductive problems. Due to the toxic ingredients,

nail polish also causes yellow nails if you wear it for a long time. (Unknown, 2015).

As stated by 40plusstyle.com (n.d.), gel nail polish lasts up to 3 weeks, dry

instantly, and is easier to make nail designs. In addition, as stated by All Day Chick

(n.d.), beside of those three, gel nail polish also looks fresh all the time and like natural

looking nails. Gel nail polish is also suitable for people who have a thin and brittle nails.

It is also durable and it lasts longer. (Makeup Mania, 2014) on the other hand, it also

has disadvantages to us. According to Black (2017) it can cause harmful effects on

health. It can lead to cancer once you wear it. It causes your nails to thin, nail breakage
and it can infect your nails. Some specialists say that broken nails takes 6 weeks to

recover. To cure it, you’ll need to soak your nails in pure acetone that can cause much

drying to the fingers.

When it comes in breathable nail polish, as stated by Black (2017), the benefits

of breathable nail polish are healthier nails, easy to apply, lessen toxic chemicals,

manicures for day, and it is quick to dry. Nails are actually hydrated which keeps them

flexible and healthy. It allows the movement of oil through and off the nail. It makes

the nail stronger and long-lasting manicure. It enables the air and water to pass

through so there’s no need to apply the base coat. These nail polish is not 100% toxic-

free but it has 10-free toxic ingredients from a normal ingredients of a nail polish. The

drying time of nail polish is much quickly when air penetrate through it.
 Figure 1: Conceptual Framework regarding Gumamela (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)
Flower Extract as Main Component of Nail Polish

Figure 1 describes the conceptual framework of the study wherein the

intervention is consisting of the following: in experimental, nail polish with gumamela

flower extract and in control, commercial nail polish was used. On the other hand, the

post-test of experimental includes the objectives of the study which is to know the

effectiveness of nail polish gumamela flower extract as a main component in terms of:

color, odor, texture and drying time. Likewise, in control which is commercial nail polish

intervention is to know the effectiveness of commercial nail polish in terms of: color,

odor, texture and drying time. By the use of these post-test the researchers are able

to determine the difference between the nail polish with gumamela flower extract and

commercial nail polish in terms of: color, odor, texture and drying time.