Raise Organic Chicken Revised

COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL
Sector: AGRI-FISHERIES
Qualification: ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NC II
Unit of Competency: RAISE ORGANIC CHICKEN
Module Title: RAISING ORGANIC CHICKEN
TECHNICAL EDUCATION AND SKILLS DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY

PROVINCIAL TRAINING CENTER
Bayombong, Nueva Vizcaya
HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MODULE
Welcome to the Module Raise Organic Chicken. This module contains

training materials and activities for you to complete.
The unit of competency Raising Organic Chicken is one of the Core

Competencies which contains the knowledge, skills and attitudes required for
all the programs offered by all TESDA-Institutes in Region 02.
You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to

complete each learning outcome of the module. In each learning outcome there
are Information Sheets, Resource Sheets and Reference Materials for further
reading to help you better understand the required activities. Follow these
activities on your own and answer the self-check at the end of each learning
outcome. Get the answer key from your trainer and check your work honestly.
If you have questions, please don’t hesitate to ask him/her for assistance.
Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)
You may already have some or most of the knowledge and skills covered in
this module because you have:
• Been working in the same industry for some time.
• Already completed training in this area.
If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a

particular skill or skills, talk to him/her about having them formally
recognized so you won’t have to do the same training again. If you have
qualifications or Certificates of Competency from previous trainings, show them
to your trainer. If the skills you acquired are still relevant to this module, they
may become part of the evidence you can present for RPL.
A Trainee Record Book (TRB) is given to you to record important dates, jobs
undertaken and other workplace events that will assist you in providing
further details to your trainer/assessor. A Record of Achievement/Progress Chart is also
provided to your trainer to complete/accomplish once you have completed the module.
This will show your own progress.
DIRECTION FOR USE OF THE CBLM
This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency: RAISE
ORGANIC CHICKEN. This will be the source of information for you to acquire the
knowledge and skills in this particular module with minimum supervision or help from
your trainer. With the aid of this material, you will acquire the competency
independently and at your own pace.
Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the training of this
unit. Read through the module carefully. It is divided into sections which covers all the
skills and knowledge you need to successfully complete in this module.
Work through all the information sheets and complete the activities in each
section. Do what is asked in the INSTRUCTIONAL SHEETS and complete the SELF-
CHECK. Suggested references are included to supplement the materials provided in this
module.
Most probably, your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/she is
there to support you and show you the correct way to do things. Ask for help.
Your trainer will tell you about the important things you need to consider when
you are completing activities and it is important that you listen and take notes.
Talk to more experienced workmates and ask for their guidance.
Use the self-check questions at the end of each section to test your own progress.
When you are ready, ask your trainer to watch you perform the activities outlined
in the module.
As you work through the activities, ask for written feedback on your progress.
Your trainer gives feedback/pre-assessment reports for this reason. When you have
successfully completed each element or learning outcome, ask your trainer to mark on
the reports that you are ready for assessment.
When you have completed this module and feel confident that you have had
sufficient practice, your trainer will schedule you for the institutional assessment. The
result of your assessment/evaluation will be recorded in your COMPETENCY
ACHIEVEMENT RECORD.
(ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NC II)
COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS
List of Competencies
No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code
Raise Organic Raising Organic AGR612301

1.
Chicken Chicken
Produce Organic Producing Organic AGR611306

2.
Vegetables Vegetables
Produce Organic Producing Organic AGR611301

3.
Fertilizer Fertilizer
Produce Organic Producing Organic

4. Concoctions and Concoctions and AGR611302
extracts extracts
MODULE CONTENT
UNIT OF COMPETENCY: RAISE ORGANIC CHICKEN
MODULE TITLE: RAISING ORGANIC CHICKEN
MODULE DESCRIPTOR: This unit covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes
required to raise organic chicken efficiently and effectively.
It includes selecting healthy stocks, determine suitable
chicken house requirements, install cage equipment, feed
chicken, manage health and growth of chicken and
harvesting activities.
NOMINAL DURATION: 30 Hours
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the end of this module you MUST be able to:
1. Select Healthy stocks and suitable housing
2. Set-up cage equipment
3. Feed Chicken
4. Grow and Harvest Chicken
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Breed/strains are identified as per PNS-Organic Agriculture-Livestock and GAHP

Guidelines
2. Healthy chicks are selected based on industry acceptable indicator for healthy
chicks.
3. Suitable site for chicken house are determined based on PNS recommendations.
4. Chicken house design is prepared based PNS recommendations.
5. House equipment installation design is prepared in line with PNS recommendation
and actual scenario.
6. House equipment are installed in line with housing equipment installation design
7. Bedding materials are secured based on availability in the locality
8. Bedding is prepared in accordance with housing equipment housing design
9. Brooding facility is set-up in accordance with the housing equipment installation
design.
10. Suitable feed materials are selected based on availability in the locality and
nutrient requirements of chicken
11. Feed materials are prepared following enterprise prescribed formulation
12. Animals are fed based on feeding management program
13. Feeding is monitored following enterprise procedure
14. Growth rate is monitored based on enterprise procedures
15. Health care program are implemented based on enterprise procedures
16. Sanitation and cleanliness program are implemented based on enterprise
procedure
17. Organic wastes for fertilizer formulation are collected.
18. Suitable chicken for harvest are selected based on market specifications.
19. Production record is accomplished according to enterprise procedure.
RAISE ORGANIC CHICKEN
Learning Outcome No. 1
SELECT HEALTHY STOCKS AND SUITABLE HOUSING
Contents:
1. Types breeds and strains of chicken

2. Characteristics of desirable and undesirable strains for organic chicken
3. Selection of healthy chicks based on industry acceptable in PNS-Organic
Agriculture-Livestock and GAHP Guidelines
4. Culling parameters
5. Housing equipment
Assessment Criteria
1. Breed/strains are identified as per PNS-Organic Agriculture-Livestock and GAHP

Guidelines
2. Healthy chicks are selected based on industry acceptable indicator for healthy
chicks.
3. Suitable site for chicken house are determined based on PNS recommendations.
4. Chicken house design is prepared based PNS recommendations.
5. House equipment installation design is prepared in line with PNS
recommendation and actual scenario.
Conditions
The participants will have access to:
- Training farm
- Reference materials
- PNS-Organic Agriculture-Livestock and GAHP Guidelines
Assessment Method:
• Written examination
• Demonstration of practical skills
• Direct observation
• Interview/ Questioning
Learning Outcome No. 1
Select Healthy Stocks and Suitable Housing
Learning Experiences
Learning Activities Special Instructions
1. Read Information Sheet 1.1-1 Types If you have some problem on the content
breeds and strains of chicken of the information sheet, don’t hesitate to
approach your facilitator.
If you feel that you are now knowledgeable

on the content of the information sheet
1.1-1, you can now answer self-check
provided in the module.
2. Answer Self-Check 1.1-1 Compare your answer to the answer key

1.1-1. If you got 100% correct answer in
the self-check, you can now move to the
next information sheet. If not, review the
information sheet and go over the self-
check again.
3. Read Information Sheet 1.1-2 If you have some problem on the content
Characteristics of a healthy stock/breeder of the information sheet, don’t hesitate to


check again.
5. Read Information Sheet 1.1-3 House If you have some problem on the content
Equipment of the information sheet, don’t hesitate to

check again.
7. Read Information Sheet 1.1-4 on Chicken If you have some problem on the content
Housing Structures of the information sheet, don’t hesitate to

next topic. If not, review the information
sheet and go over the self-check again.
Information Sheet 1.1-1
Types, breeds and strains of domestic poultry
Learning objective:
After reading this information sheet, you should be able to
1. Identify the different types, breeds and strains of domestic poultry according
to industry standard.
Egg-Type Breed ORIGIN CHARACTERISTICS/

DESCRIPTION
1. Leghorn Leghorns take their Varieties:
name from the city of • Single Comb Dark
Leghorn, Italy, where Brown
they are considered • Single Comb Light
to have originated. Brown
• Rose Comb Dark
Brown
• Rose Comb Light
Brown
• Single Comb White
• Rose Comb White
• Single Comb Buff
• Rose Comb Buff
• Single Comb Black
• Single Comb Silver
• Single Comb Red
• Single Comb Black
Tailed Red
• Single Comb
Columbian
Standard Weights: Cock-
6 pounds; hen-4-1/2
pounds; cockerel 5
pounds; pullet-4 pounds.
Skin Color: Yellow.
Egg Shell Color: White.
Use: An egg-type chicken,
Leghorns figured in the
development of most of
our modern egg-type
strains.
2. Minorca Developed in the Varieties:
Mediterranean area • Single Comb Black
where they take • Rose Comb Black
their name from an • Single Comb White
island off the coast • Rose Comb White
of Spain. • Single Comb Buff
Development may
have been as an Standard Weights:
offshoot of the Single Comb Black: Cock-
Spanish breed. 9 pounds; hen 7-1/2
pounds; cockerel-7-1/2
pounds; pullet-6-1/2
pounds. All others: Cock-8
pounds; hen-6-1/2
pounds.
Skin Color: White.
Use: Developed for the
production of very large
chalk-white eggs, the
Minorca is today
principally an exhibition
fowl.
3. Mikawa This breed was This breed has an RJF-
established in type body shape
Aichi Prefecture with buff colored plumage.
during the Meiji
This bird has a single
Era (1868 – 1912) comb, white earlobes and
for egg production.
yellow shanks.
Although the
breed was
established in
Japan, no
Japanese native
breeds contributed
to its
establishment.
Some foreign
breeds were
crossed in Japan
to make this
breed.
4. Minorca Developed in the Varieties:
Mediterranean • Single Comb Black
area where they • Rose Comb Black
take their name • Single Comb White
from an island off • Rose Comb White
the coast of Spain. • Single Comb Buff
Development may
have been as an Standard Weights:
offshoot of the Single Comb Black: Cock-
Spanish breed. 9 pounds; hen 7-1/2
pounds. All others: Cock-8
pounds; hen-6-1/2
pounds.
Skin Color: White.
Use: Developed for the
production of very large
chalk-white eggs, the
Minorca is today
principally an exhibition
fowl.
5. Mikawa This breed was This breed has an RJF-
established in type body shape
Aichi Prefecture with buff colored plumage.
during the Meiji
This bird has a single
Era (1868 – 1912) comb, white earlobes and
for egg production.
yellow shanks.
Although the
breed was
established in
Japan, no
Japanese native
breeds contributed
to its
establishment.
Some foreign
breeds were
crossed in Japan
to make this
breed.
Ancona The Ancona Varieties: Single Comb,
originated near the Rose Comb.
city of Ancona,
Italy, from early
Leghorns and Standard Weights:
other breeds. Cock-6 pounds; hen-4-
1/2 pounds; cockerel 5
Use: A small fowl that

lays a fair number of
rather small eggs.
Status: Rare. The

Ancona is quite unusual
in the U.S. as a
production breed.
Meat-Type Breed ORIGIN CHARACTERISTICS/
DESCRIPTION
1. Brahma The ancestry of Varieties:
the Brahma traces • Light
back to China • Dark
although much of • Buff
their development Standard Weights
took place in the (Light): Cock-12 pounds;
U.S. between 1850 hen-9-1/2 pounds;
and 1890. cockerel-10 pounds;
pullet-8 pounds.
Standard Weights (Dark
and Buff): Cock-1 1
pounds; hen-8-1/2
pounds; cockerel-9
Skin Color: Yellow.
Egg Shell Color: Brown.
Use: A very heavy fowl for
the production of heavy
roasters or capons. Fair
egg layers.
2. Cochin Cochins came Varieties:
originally from • Black
China but • Buff
underwent • Partridge
considerable • White
development in the Standard Weights: Cock-
U.S. and now are 1 1 pounds; hen-8-1/2
found and pounds; cockerel-9
admired in many pounds; pullet-7 pounds.
parts of the world. Skin Color: Yellow.
Use: Mainly an
ornamental fowl, but their
ability as mothers is
widely recognized and
Cochins are frequently
used as foster mothers for
game birds and other
species.
3. Langshan
Varieties:
• Black
• White
9-1/2 pounds; hen-7-1/2
pounds; cockerel-8
pounds.
Skin Color: White.
Use: A general purpose
fowl for the production of
meat and eggs. The
general shape of the
Langshan makes them
better suited to roaster
and capon use than as
fryers.
General Purpose (Dual-purpose) ORIGIN CHARACTERISTICS/

Breeds DESCRIPTION
1. Plymouth Rock Developed in Varieties:
America in the o Barred
middle of the 19th
o White
century and was o Buff
first exhibited as oa Partridge
breed in 1869. o Silver Penciled
Several individuals o Blue
claimed its
o Columbian
invention, using Standard Weights: Cock-
crosses of 9-1/2 pounds; hen-7-1/2
Dominique, Java, pounds; cockerel-8
Cochin, and pounds; pullet-6 pounds.
perhaps Malay
and Dorking. The Skin Color: Yellow.
first Plymouth Egg Shell Color: Brown.
Rock was barred
and other varieties Use: Meat and eggs.
developed later.
The Breed became
popular very
rapidly, and in
fact, until World
War II, no breed
was ever kept and
bred as extensively
as the Barred
Plymouth Rock.
2. New Hampshire New Hampshires Standard Weights: Cock-
are a relatively 8-1/2 pounds; hen-6-1/2
new breed, having pounds; cockerel-7-1/2
been admitted to pounds; pullet-5-1/2
the Standard in pounds.
1935. They Skin Color: Yellow.
represent a Egg Shell Color: Brown.
specialized Use: A dual purpose
selection out of the chicken, selected more for
Rhode Island Red meat production than egg
breed. By intensive production. Medium heavy
selection for rapid in weight, it dresses a
growth, fast nice, plump carcass as
feathering, early either a broiler or a
maturity and roaster.
vigor, a different
breed gradually
emerged. This took
place in the New
England states-
chiefly in
Massachusetts
and New
Hampshire from
which it takes its
name.
3. Wyandotte America. The Varieties:
Silver Laced • White
variety was • Buff
developed in New • Columbian
York State and the • Golden Laced
others in the north • Blue
and northeastern • Silver Laced
states in the latter • Silver-Penciled
part of the 19th • Partridge
century and early
• Black
20th century.
8-1/2 pounds, hen-6-1/2
pounds, cockerel-7-1/2
pounds, pullet-5-1/2
pounds.
Skin Color: Yellow.
Use: Meat or eggs.
4. Nagoya This breed was • The Nagoya breed has a

established in Cochin-type body shape
Aichi Prefecture with buff columbian
during the colored plumage. The
Taishou Era (1912 buff color of this breed
– has an orange tinge.
• This breed was used for
1926) by removing egg and meat
the leg feathers production in Japan on
from the Nagoya a small scale.
Cochin. The • The other features of
Nagoya Cochin Nagoya are a single
was established comb, red earlobes and
during the Meiji lead-gray
Era (1868 – 1912) shanks.
by crossing the
Cochin, whose
origin is in China,
and some
Japanese native
breed.
NATIVE CHICKEN BREEDS IN THE PHILIPPINES
Paraoakan
Paraoakan, of course, is the native chicken from Palawan. Of the several strains of
native chickens, Paraoakan is the biggest of them all. It has long legs, bigger body than
the rest, long neck and bigger head.
Banaba –
The Banaba native chicken has yellow to reddish plumage with black tail and
black wing feathers. It holds the wings close to the body. The tail is carried very upright
and the hackles are bright orange. The head is large with a single comb and bright red
earlobes.
Darag –
The Darag chicken is native to the islands of Panay, Guimaras and Negros in the
Philippines. Its wild ancestor is the red jungle fowl (Gallus gallus) which is pervasive in
Southeast Asia. ... The modern Darag, or the hen, has a yellowish-brown colour. The
rooster, which is often called Alimbuyog, has red and black colours.
Joloano –
The Joloano is a heavy breed, with straight body posture. Also called
Basilan chicken, the Joloano breed is believed to have originated in Mindanao and is
commonly used for cockfighting. The mature weighs at about 2.20 kilograms for male
and 1.50 kilograms for the female. ... The hen has brown plumage.
Bolinao –
Bolinao chicken is an improved breed of the native bird, which has a very high
market value in terms of egg and meat production. ... “The poultry houses will also be
used as breeding houses of quality breeder stocks for future livestock dispersal activities
in the Ilocos region,”.
FOREIGN CHICKEN BREEDS
SASSO –
Sasso chickens are native chickens of France and now becoming popular among
big and small raisers. Resembling our own native chickens,the Sasso chicken grow
faster, with delicious and tender meat and strong disease resistance.
RHODE ISLAND –
The Rhode Island Red is an American breed of domestic chicken. It is the state
bird of Rhode Island. It was developed there and in Massachusetts in the late nineteenth
century, by cross-breeding birds of Oriental origin such as the Malay with brown
Leghorn birds from Italy.
CHINESE CHICKEN –
Broiler type of chiken from China which is highly expensive (P1000/kl). The
chinese believe that it’s meat has medicinal properties. It has white feathers but meat
and bones are all black, short and puffy bodies.
WHITE LEGHORN –
The Leghorn is a breed of chicken originating in Tuscany, in central Italy. Birds
were first exported to North America in 1828 from the Tuscan port city of Livorno, on the
western coast of Italy.
Leghorns are good layers of white eggs, laying an average of 280 per year and
sometimes reaching 300–320, with a weight of at least 55 g. White Leghorns have been
much used to create highly productive egg-laying hybrids for commercial and industrial
operations.
BANTAM CHICKEN –
A bantam is any small variety of fowl, usually of chicken or duck. Most large
chicken breeds have a bantam counterpart, which is much smaller than the standard-
sized fowl, but otherwise similar in most or all respects. A true bantam chicken is
naturally small and has no large counterpart.
SELF CHECK 1.1-1
Identification
1. It is a native chicken from Palawan. It has long legs, bigger body than the rest,
long neck and bigger head.
2. This native chicken has yellow to reddish lumage with black tail and black wing
feathers. It holds the wings close to the body.
3. This chicken is native to the islands of Panay, Guimaras and Negros in the
Philippines. Its wild ancestor is the red jungle fowl (Gallus gallus) which is pervasive in
Southeast Asia.
4. This is a heavy breed, with straight body posture. Also called Basilan chicken,
the Joloano breed is believed to have originated in Mindanao and is commonly used for
cockfighting.
5. This is a native chicken which is an improved breed of the native bird, which
has a very high market value in terms of egg and meat production. ...
“The poultry houses will also be used as breeding houses of quality breeder stocks for
future livestock dispersal activities in the Ilocos region,”.
6. Originally are native chickens of France and now becoming popular among big
and small raisers. Resembling our own native chickens,
7. This type of chicken is an American breed of domestic chicken. It is the state
bird of Rhode Island.
8. Broiler type of chiken from China which is highly expensive (P1000/kl). The
chinese believe that it’s meat has medicinal properties
9. This type of chicken is any small variety of fowl, usually of chicken or duck.
Most large chicken breeds have a bantam counterpart, which is much smaller than the
standard-sized fowl, but otherwise similar in most or all respects.
10. This type of breed of chicken originated in Tuscany, in central Italy. These are
good layers of white eggs, laying an average of 280 per year.
ANSWER KEY
1. Paraoakan
2. Banaba
3. Darag
4. Joloan
5. Bolinao
6. Sasso
7. Rhode Island
8. Chinese Chicken
9. Bantam
10. White Leghorn
Standard indicator for healthy stocks
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Classify breeds that will suit your climate
2. Recognize healthy and unhealthy stocks
Introduction:
If you’re considering raising chickens, one of the first questions to pop into your head
will undoubtedly be: Which are the best chicken breeds for my specific needs?
The answer depends completely on your reasons for getting chickens in the first place. Is
it so you can enjoy farm fresh eggs every day? Is it to provide organic, pastured meat for
your family? Is it because you want some cute pets for your kids? Is it to show off their
fancy feathers at the local fair?
These questions are important, and your answers will guide your chicken breed choice.
We’re going to lay out the different types of chickens, their purpose in a backyard flock,
and which chicken breeds within those types are considered stellar choices.
Consider Climate First
The very first thing you need to think about when picking chicken breeds is climate. If
you live in an area that frequently sees very hot summers or extremely cold winters, your
breed choices need to reflect that.
There are certain breeds that are known for thriving in different extreme climates. This
isn’t to say these are the only breeds for these areas, just those that are well known for
their abilities to thrive in these climates.
Cold Climate Breeds
Cold climate breeds have very small combs and wattles. Hens and roosters with rose,
cushion, strawberry, or pea combs tend to fare better in freezing weather. Small combs
and wattles are closer to the body and are less likely to get frostbite.
Cold hardy chicken breeds also tend to be a bit heavier. They put on a nice layer of fat in
the autumn that helps keep them warm through the winter.
Best Cold Hardy Breeds:
1. Wyandotte
2. Orpington
3. Dominique
4. Easter Egger
5. Australorp
6. Ameraucana
7. Chantecler
8. Buckeye
9. Cochin
10. Black Copper Maran
*These breeds are just considered to be the best cold hardy breeds, not the only cold
hardy breeds. There are many more breeds that will fare perfectly well in cold weather.
Warm Climate Breeds
Warm climate breeds will tolerate heat better than other breeds. These chickens are
usually lighter in weight and have larger combs. Blood circulates through the comb and
wattles to help dissipate the heat and keep them cool in summer, so the larger the better
for warm climates.
Best Heat Hardy Breeds:
1. Easter Egger
2. Leghorn
3. Silkie
4. Plymouth Rock
5. Ancona
6. Black Sumatra
7. Naked Neck
8. Blue Andalusian
9. Welsummer
These breeds are just considered to be the best heat hardy breeds, not the only heat
hardy breeds. There are many more breeds that will fare perfectly well in hot weather.
Healthy Stocks
CHARACTERISTICS OF A GOOD BREED/STOCK

1. No deformities
2. Bright red comb. No discoloration
3. Dry behind
4. No rancid odor
5. Agile, energetic and alert
6. Shiny feathers
7. Dry and clean beak
8. Bright eyes
It is very important to learn how to identify a healthy chicken. This is especially true if
you keep chicken or you want to buy some. Leaning what to look out for could help you
know if any of your birds is sick and help you provide treatment before it's too late.
Alternatively, you can avoid wasting money buying a sick bird only for it to die soon
afterwards. While some people are experts at identifying signs of sickness in chicken,
most have to learn the technique. In any case, it is better to regularly examine each
individual bird for signs of ill health.
A physical examination is the best way to find out how healthy your birds are. There are
some physical markers you should be on the lookout for. A healthy chicken is usually
alert and active, at least during the day. Any bird that shows signs of excessive
drowsiness or lethargy should be examined. Watch out for any bird that sits away from
the rest of the flock with its head tucked in close to the body and in a hunched up pose.
This could be a sign that the bird is not healthy.
The chicken's comb is another good indicator of the bird's health. It should be bright red
in colour. A pink comb is normal in hens and simply indicates that the bird is not in lay
while a red one indicates she is. If the comb has a bluish colour you should take it as a
warning that the bird has poor blood circulation and is not in good health. A comb full of
scabs shows that the bird has been in fights. You should take care to assess the
temperament of a cock before buying it. Purchasing a bird which likes to fight will only
antagonise and disturb the rest of the flock.
Another sign of a healthy chicken is shiny feathers which have a nice sheen to them.
You should examine each bird for signs of parasites. The most common ones are lice and
these have a habit of hiding between a chicken's feathers. Also take a look at the shanks
of the feet. The scales should be smooth. Protruding scales could be a sign that the bird
has scaly leg mites. The feathers under and around the vent should be clean and not
messy. Birds which have dirty and scruffy feathers should be examined for any signs of
illness. The bird should also have straight toes with no bending or twisting. Bent toes do
not always indicate sickness since it could be a genetic trait. Such birds should not be
allowed to breed with the others.
While examining the bird, check the eyes to ensure they are bright and clear. Any
discharge or bubbles around the eyes and nostrils could point to respiratory problems. If
the bird wheezes when breathing, you have reason to suspect it has a respiratory
problem. A healthy chicken has an upper and lower beak which meets at the middle.
They do not cross over each other.
Learning these few signs enables a person to tell which birds are sick and which ones
are healthy.
SELF-CHECK 1.1-2
True or False: Write T if the statement is correct and F if otherwise.

1. A healthy chicken is usually alert and active, at least during the day
2. A pink comb is normal in hens and simply indicates that the bird is in lay.
3. Enumeration:
Out of 9 Best Heat Breeds, name at least 3
4. Enumeration:
Give atleast five (5) characteristics of a good stock.
ANSWER KEY 1.1-2
1. T
2. F
3.
• Easter Egger
• Leghorn
• Silkie
• Plymouth Rock
• Ancona
• Black Sumatra
• Naked Neck
• Blue Andalusian
• Welsummer
4.
1. No deformities
3. Dry behind
4. No rancid odor
6. Shiny feathers
7. Dry and clean beak
8. Bright eyes
Housing Equipment’s
Learning Objective:
1. List chicken housing equipment’s
Introduction:
There are many types of poultry equipment available which are necessary for successful
poultry farming. People of different countries are getting inspired in poultry farming day
by day as it is a great way of earnings. The demand of animal protein is increasing due
to high population growth and poultry farming is a great solution of it. So the demand of
of poultry products are increasing. Proper management, care and sufficient equipment
are must for successful production of poultry. Some essential poultry
products/equipment are shortly described below.
Housing Equipment
Poultry housing is not exactly any equipment but it is a must for poultry production.
There are many ways of making chicken cage. It may be a concrete house or a simple
house. Concrete or simple whatever the house is, it must have to have the necessary
benefits for the poultry birds. The poultry cage must have to the facilities of well
ventilation and well day light management. 10-15 feet distance from one house to
another house is better. Some basic information should maintain before making poultry
house or chicken cage.
▪ The house must have to keep dry and clean always.

▪ Build the house in open air place.
▪ Liter of the house should be at least 3 inch depth.
▪ Wood powder, sand or tush can be used as liter.
▪ Mix half kg of lime powder with the liter.
▪ Change the litter of the house after every one week.
▪ Never let the poultry house wet.
▪ You can raise poultry in open area(free range poultry farming
system).
Incubator
Incubator is such a poultry equipment which is used for hatching the birds egg in
unnatural ways. Generally in natural condition, the poultry birds hatch the egg, but
they can maintain and hatch a limited number of eggs. So, when it is necessary to hatch
a huge number of eggs then the producer must have to use an incubator. There are
many types of egg incubators. Diesel and electric incubator is the most popular and
widely used.
Feeder
Feeder is such an equipment which is used for feeding the poultry birds. Generally some
foods kept in the feeder and the poultry birds starts eating food from there. Plastic or
metal feeders are used mostly to feed the chickens. The feeder should keep neat and
clean always to keep the chicken healthy. Keep sufficient numbers of feeder in the
poultry house according to the number of the chickens. If the amount of feeders are less
than the chickens then they can’t consume enough food and their health will broke and
if the feeder become more than the amount of chickens then the birds will waste the food
and maximize your feeding cost. So, keep the amount of feeders according to the number
of the chickens.
Water Pot
This poultry equipments or chicken products is essential to supplying water into the
chicken cage. We all know that clean and fresh water is very essential and helpful for
chickens health. Clean the water pot regularly. Water pots are of various types. Water
can be served by a simple water pot or through pipe line. In pipe line system you can
keep an pipe from one corner to another corner of house or use drop water system.
Heater
Heat management is very necessary for poultry farming. Bulb, heater or other heating
equipment can be used to warm up the chicken cage.
Laying Nests
Laying nests helps the poultry birds for laying eggs. This equipment increases the egg
production and help the producers collecting eggs from the nest.
Egg Handling Nest
Egg handling nest or cages are used for transporting eggs from one place to another
places. It reduces the risk of damages of eggs withe transporting for marketing purposes.
Fencing
In the case of free range poultry farming system fencing is a must. Because it protect the
poultry birds from all types of predators. Almost all producers use wire for fencing
purposes.
Flooring
Neat, clean and dry floor keep the birds healthy. So, always try to use proper floor. In
the case of indoor farming methods use wire net in the floor.
Coops and Cages
There are many companies available who produce readymade coops or cages for the
poultry. This types of coops and cages are very suitable for small scale poultry rearing.
Others
There are also some other equipments which are very helpful for successful poultry
production.
SELF-CHECK 1.1-3

1. Incubator is such a poultry equipment which is used as nesting box.
2. Heat management is very necessary for poultry farming.
3. Feeder is such an equipment which we can use also as water pot.
4. Laying nests is used as sleeping nest.
Identification:
5. This poultry equipment or chicken products is essential in supplying water into the
chicken cage.
ANSWER KEY 1.1-3
1. F
2. T
3. F
4. F
5. Water Pot
Basic housing features
Learning Objective:
1. Enumerate basic housing features using 7 design details to build into your coops
Introduction:
Basic housing features for our chick stocks are important like our own house, as this
will be there shelter for the rest of their life. Air flow is one of the important elements
that we should conceder in our housing, for they will be staying in that specific area
about 8-12hours in one day. Sunlight and sunset setting is also being conceder.
Daylight should also be align that housing inside should get some light from sunrise or
sunset to maintain balance bacteria inside.
Chicken housing is one of the requirements when taking care or farming chicken. This
will be their shelter for unwanted climate and this will protect them from predator
lurking around the farm. Farmers have different preference for the chicken house; some
might want the regular structure and some like the one that makes their farming easier
with a customized housing. Housing for our chicken are made out of wood and or
indigenous materials, some are made out of foreign materials such as metal, plastic, etc.
and it’s being determined from farmer’s budget. Most farmers choose the practical
materials that will meet the basic needs for their chicken.
Using indigenous materials from the local is advisable for cost efficient (e.g. bamboo,
coconut lumber, etc.). Size, airflow and positioning of housing are also being understood
for balance ecosystem inside the housing where bacteria build-up must be controlled
naturally by letting the sunlight pass through the door or window every day, the housing
should be farmers friendly, from collecting eggs to cleaning the area, in order to
minimize the time spent in farming chicken, and maximize the potential of the housing.
7 Design Details to Build into Your Coop
1. Size
Allow 2 to 4 square feet of interior floor space per hen, depending on the size of your
chickens (i.e., bantams need less space, Jersey Giants need more) and how many
waking hours they spend in the coop. If your flock spends all day free-ranging outdoors,
then you can probably get away with 2 square feet per hen.
Consider the eventual size of your flock. It’s far easier to start with a larger coop than to
add on to your existing coop when your flock grows from five to a dozen or more, so
build big.
2. Flooring
Coop flooring is another important consideration. Predators can easily dig and burrow
under dirt floors. While concrete floors are impregnable, they can be expensive and often
not a DIY option for beginner coop builders. Wood floors can house mites and other
parasites, as well as mold and rot if they get wet.
Consider covering plywood with inexpensive vinyl flooring. This makes for easy cleanup
and creates an inhospitable environment for mites. Simple to cut and staple down, vinyl
is also easy to replace as needed.
3. Elevation
Raised coops are more secure from predators than coops set directly on the ground
(unless you pour a concrete floor) and will prevent a wooden floor from rotting
underneath. Raising your coop 8 to 12 inches off the ground allows chickens to easily fit
underneath, providing them welcome shelter from sun in the summer and from sleet
and snow in the winter.
4. Roosts
Provide a minimum of 8 inches of roost space per hen. Again, plan on enough space for
the eventual number of hens you’ll be raising. Using 2×4 beams with the 4-inch side
facing up works well for roosting bars. The wide, flat side of the board will help keep
your chickens’ feet protected from frostbite in winter.
5. Nesting Boxes
You should provide one nesting box for every three to four hens, though the reality is
that no matter how many boxes you have, all of your chickens will want to lay in the
same one—at the same time. That’s just the way chickens are.
Boxes should be approximately 1 square foot by 1 foot high and positioned lower than
your roosts so your chickens won’t be tempted to sleep in them at night. If you live in a
very cold climate and frozen eggs are a concern, consider interior boxes that you need to
enter the coop to access, instead of exterior boxes that are accessible from outside the
coop and therefore more exposed to low temperatures.
6. Ventilation
One-fifth of your coop’s wall space should be vented. Good ventilation is very important
year-round. Even in winter, some vents should be left open to allow for airflow, as
frostbite is caused more by moisture than by actual cold. Place vents higher than the
roosts, though lower vents that can be left open in the summer and closed during the
cold months are important, as well.
Cover vents with 1/2-inch hardware cloth to prevent predators from gaining access.
Staple or nail the wire in place, and then secure it by screwing furring strips or screws
and washers along the edges. Chicken wire is not sufficient to keep out predators. Mice,
weasels and snakes can fit through the large holes, and raccoons, dogs and foxes can
easily rip it.
7. Latches
Coop doors and nesting- box covers should be fitted with secure latches. Raccoons can
turn knobs, untie knots, undo bungee cords, lift latches and slide deadbolts. A predator-
proof eye hook with a spring-loaded catch works well on nesting-box lids, while a
deadbolt installed at least 4 feet from the ground and a second lower latch secured with
a carabineer works well on coop doors.
Incorporating these features into your coop will get you well on your way to successful
chicken keeping. Protecting your flock from predators and providing a healthy
environment is of utmost importance.
http://www.mychickencoop.com.au/assets/images/products/villa-feature.jpg (retrieved date: 6-16-16)
Example of effective and being used structure for chicken housing from organic farm
from Panabo City, Davao. The structure was made out of coco lumber materials, as their
frames, used net mesh for barrier purpose in order for the chicken can’t come out and
protect them from outside predators, beddings being used was a combination of rice hull
and coco pits with coco quires. Drinker & Feeder was made out of used 4” PVC pipe that
is being cut lengthwise and cover its endings, the roofing was made from dried nippa
leaves, and the rest are made of mixed materials such as coco lumber and other
lumbers. See image
1:Housing structure
2: housing structure
There are many things that can be used in our chicken housing, consider your budget
for your housing, you might spent more than you planned. Materials you want to used,
you might want to use high quality materials for your housing. Substrates to be used, it
will be better if we will invest or choose substrates that is available in our area, for less
importation expense due to lack of available materials near you.
SELF-CHECK 1.1-4
1. Chicken housing is not important for chicken.

2. Bamboo & coco lumber are indigenous materials.
3. Buying substrate from other areas is cheaper than locally available materials.
4. Airflow or ventilation is just additional to the housing, and not important.
Enumeration: In no particular order

• 7 features in building chicken house
ANSWER KEY 1.1-4
True or False
1. T
2. F
3. F
4. T
Enumeration
5. Size
6. Flooring
7. Elevation
8. Roosts
9. Nesting box
10. Ventilation
11. Latches
Learning Outcome 2
Set-up cage equipment
1. Gather housing materials available in the community

2. Install basic brooding facilities
3. Prepare bedding materials
1. House equipment are installed in line with housing equipment installation design
2. Bedding materials are secured based on availability in the locality
3. Bedding is prepared in accordance with housing equipment housing design
4. Brooding facility is set-up in accordance with the housing equipment installation
design.
Contents:
1. Housing Materials
2. Brooding Facility
3. Bedding Materials
Conditions
The participants must be provided with the following supplies & materials
• Pencil
• Papers
• Bedding materials
• Brooding materials -1 gal. capacity tin can; charcoal
• Protective gloves
• Masks
• Rubber boots
• Carpentry tools
• Push-Pull Ruled Tape
• Calculators
• Feeding trough
• Water containers
• Bite/push nipples
• Shovel
• Wheel barrow
• Electrical tools and supplies
Assessment Method:
1. Written examination
2. Demonstration
Learning Outcome 2
Set-up cage equipment
Read Information Sheet 1.2-1 Housing If you have some problem on the content
Materials of the information sheet, don’t hesitate to

Source: Session Plan- Presentation

Answer Self-Check 1.2-1 Compare your answer to the answer key
check again.
Read Information Sheet 1.2-2 Brooding If you have some problem on the content
Facility of the information sheet, don’t hesitate to


check again.
Read Information Sheet 1.2-3 House If you have some problem on the content
Equipment of the information sheet, don’t hesitate to

check again.
Perform Job Sheet 1.2-3 Setting-up Cage
Equipment
Evaluate your own output using

Performance Criteria Checklist
Housing materials
Learning Objective:
1. Distinguish affordable housing materials
Building materials can vary widely when it comes to chicken coops because many people
simply reuse materials they already have on-hand. But if you’re making out a shopping
list for your chicken coop, these items will probably be on it:
Framing lumber:
The skeleton of the coop is most often made up of 2x4s or 2x3s. For a large walk-in
coop’s structural floor joists and/or roof rafters, you may need to upgrade to 2x6s or
2x8s. Skids or support posts may call for heavy 4x4s.
Plywood:
For creating floors, cladding walls, and sheathing roofs, sheet lumber like plywood is
typically used. Depending on the application, oriented strand board (OSB) or T1-11
paneling may be a good alternative. Different thicknesses are available.
Nails/screws:
In all likelihood, you’ll need both nails and screws for various steps of your coop build;
you’ll find times and applications where a nail simply won’t do a screw’s job, and vice
versa. Choose fasteners that suit your building application and your coop’s weather
conditions. Shingled roofs require special roofing nails.
Roofing shingles:
Protect your finished coop with a layer of asphalt roofing shingles, just like the ones on a
typical home. Alternatively, corrugated roofing panels of metal or fiberglass can be used.
Wire mesh:
Most coops feature runs wrapped in heavy-gauge wire mesh. It can also be used to cover
windows, vents, or other gaps in the shelter and make them predator-proof.
Fencing staples:
Use special U-shaped nails to fasten wire mesh in place.
SELF-CHECK 1.2-1
1. For creating floors, cladding walls, and sheathing roofs, sheet lumber like plywood is
typically used.
2. Wire mesh use not only limited for fencing and vent, but can also use by other means.
3. Fish nets/diamond mesh nets can also use as chicken fencing.
4. Coco lumber is an example for farming.
5. Corrugated roofing panels of metal or fiberglass can be used as roofing.
ANSWER KEY 1.2-1
1. T
2. T
3. T
4. T
5. T
Brooding facility

1. Identify the natural and articial brooding
2. Choose what will suit for your brooding
3. Aquire knowledge about basic brooding facilities
Baby chicks are really quite easy to raise. With a few pieces of equipment and a small
place to put them, success in brooding and rearing is virtually assured. During this
period of the bird's life, the most important needs are for warmth, protection, feed,
and water. When growing chicks of any species-chickens, turkeys, pheasants, or
almost any other production bird-each of these aspects must be considered.
Natural vs. artificial brooding
In nature, chicks hatch after 2 to 4 weeks of incubation by the parents, most often the
hen. The hatched chicks provide the stimulus to the hen to change her work from
incubating eggs to brooding young. This form of brooding chicks is the easiest if only a
few chicks are raised because the mother hen does all the work.
Hens that are "good mothers" include Rhode Island Red, New Hampshire, Plymouth
Rock, Cochins, and Silkies. Under natural brooding, chicks can easily be fostered
under a broody hen at night, and she will raise them as her own even if they are
pheasants, turkeys, quail, or waterfowl.
When broody hens are not available, or large numbers of chicks are to be raised,
artificial brooding is necessary. Chicks will perform equally well under artificial or
natural brooding, providing they are precocial; that is, able to walk and feed
themselves within hours of hatching, as baby chickens are.
Novice growers are not advised to try artificial brooding for altricial chicks; that is,
chicks such as pigeons, doves, finches, and parrots that remain in the nest to be
cared for and fed by the parents. Many of these chicks are naked, blind, and unable to
walk for several weeks after hatching and require around-the-clock care and feeding.
Housing
Chick brooders can be elaborate pieces of equipment such as tiered battery brooders
(Figure 1) or as simple as a cardboard box (Figure 2) in the house or garage. In both
cases, the most important aspect is to maintain conditions that allow the birds to
thrive.
Battery brooding
Because birds in battery brooders are kept in multiple layers, many chicks can be
brooded in a relatively small amount of floor space. There are many designs. Most
include an electric heat source at one end, usually in an area that is somewhat
enclosed; another area, about two to three times the size of the heated area, is not
heated.
The walls and floor of each brooding area most often are wire. A droppings pan under
the wire floor requires regular cleaning. In many cases, feed and water are provided
outside the brooding space, making management easier.
Battery brooders are an excellent way to brood chicks in a small space. However,
chicks can remain in these brooders only a few weeks before they outgrow them. In
addition, the cost to purchase one of these units is high.
Most growers will choose to brood chicks on the floor (Figure 3). Material requirements
are minimal, but the environment is comparable to battery brooding.
Flooring
Some type of bedding material or litter is required. Litter must be absorbent and must
insulate the chicks from the ground. Most important, litter must not be slippery. A
slippery floor, such as newspaper, cardboard, or a glass-bottom aquarium, is
disastrous for baby chicks. Many chicks will develop "spraddles," a condition in which
their hip joints become dislocated, which is nearly always fatal.
Ideal litter is sawdust or wood shavings; straw can be used if it is chopped into short
lengths and is not moldy. Litter must be changed or top dressed (clean litter added
over the dirty) if it becomes wet, and that must be done more often as the birds age.
Draft shield
A draft shield is cardboard or wire that surrounds the brooding area (Figure 3). The
sides of a box used for brooding act as a draft shield. The draft shield provides two
important functions. As its name implies, it reduces the possibility that drafts will
reach the birds. It also keeps the birds close to feed, water, and heat. In some cases,
young chicks become "lost" and succumb to the elements if brooded in too large an
area. Draft shields can be removed after about 1 to 2 weeks, unless conditions are
extremely cold or drafty.
Heat
For small numbers of birds, heat usually is provided by heat lamps or light bulbs.
When large numbers (200 or more) are brooded together, it may be more economical
to use propane hovers. Many types of hovers are available if desired.
Proper temperature must be maintained if the chicks are to thrive. During the first few
weeks, chicks are cold blooded; that is, unable to maintain their body temperature. As
they age, they become warm blooded; that is, able to maintain constant body
temperature under normal environmental conditions.
Two methods of monitoring chicks' environmental temperature are used successfully.

First, start chicks at about 95°F (measured near the heat source at chick height),
dropping the temperature about 5°F each week until the birds are feathered or
ambient temperature is reached.
The second method relies on observing the chicks (Figure 4). If the chicks are all
under the heat source, it is too cold; if they are all far away from the heat, it's too hot;
if they are clumped away from the heat, it is drafty; if they are milling about in all
areas of the pen, the temperature is correct.
Note
When brooding in a small area, take care that both warm and cool areas are available
to the chicks so they can move from warm to cool and back again at will. Otherwise,
chicks can get chilled or over-heated when only cool or warm conditions are available.
Space requirements
Floor space
Baby chicks are small when they hatch but grow quite rapidly. Broiler chicks reach 5
pounds in little more than 6 weeks. Therefore, chicks need space to grow. Space
usually is not limiting in most small-flock situations; in fact, most chickens reared in
small flocks have plenty of space.
Minimum space requirements are as follows:
• For broilers, 0.75 to 1 square foot per bird

• For Leghorns and bantams, 1.5 to 2 square feet per bird
• For heavy breeds, 2.5 to 3 square feet per bird
• For turkeys, 3 to 4 square feet per bird
• For game birds, double or triple the requirements for turkeys
Feeder and waterer space
Feeder space requirements vary with feeder type and the age of the birds. The rule of
thumb is that all the birds should be able to eat or drink at the same time. Therefore,
when using trough feeders or waterers, allow 1.5 to 4 inches per bird. When using
circular feeders or waterers, allow about 1 to 2.75 inches per bird.
Lighting
Light is a powerful stimulus for most production birds. The small producer should
consider both light intensity and photo-period (day length).
Light intensity is the brightness of the light as measured in footcandles (the amount of
light a candle emits at a distance of 1 foot). Most chicks can be started at about 2
footcandles and reduced to 0.5 to 1 foot-candle at after 1 week. An easy rule is that if
you can read a newspaper, there is enough light. If light in the brooder is too bright,
the chicks may begin feather picking.
Photoperiod is the number of hours of light in a 24-hour period. Ideally, chicks that
will be kept for laying should be raised under 24 hours of light for about the first
week. Then, light should be dropped to about 16 hours a day until about 10 weeks of
age.
Between 10 and 20 weeks, chicks should be placed either on short days (less than 12
hours of light a day) or a decreasing day length. In the latter case, reduce day length
by 15 minutes each week.
Under natural light, spring-hatched chicks reach maturity under decreasing day
lengths. The reverse is true of chicks hatched in the late summer and fall.
If chicks are given long or increasing day lengths too early, they will begin laying early
and may have poor production their entire lives.
Broiler chicks should be raised in 24-hour light for maximum growth rate. Various
lighting schedules can reduce energy usage while maintaining the birds' growth rates.
However, these schedules may be complicated, and they must be strictly followed or
their effectiveness is greatly reduced.
Feeding
Chicks require a balanced diet if they are to grow and thrive. When starting chicks,
always feed a starter diet that is formulated to give the birds the proper levels of
nutrients. They should be fed free choice; that is, feed is available all the time.
Supplement only minimally with other feeds.
Baby chicks do not need scratch. Heavy supplements of scratch, table scraps, or
greens will reduce chicks' nutrient intake and may result in poor growth or, worse,
increased mortality.
After about 6 weeks of age, they can be fed a grower diet; generally this diet is lower in
protein because the chicks are growing more slowly. Do not feed adult diets to baby
chicks, especially layer diets. These feeds are very high in calcium for egg shell
formation and are not suitable for baby chicks.
Water must be provided constantly. It should be room temperature, clean, and fresh.
Supplemental vitamins added to the water are not necessary if the chicks are fed
properly. When brooding, make sure the water does not become too hot from the heat
source because many birds will refuse to drink warm water.
Sanitation and disease
For the most part, chicks are quite hearty. For maximum survival rate and to
minimize disease problems, buy chicks from a reputable source. Most commercial
hatcheries vaccinate their chicks for Marek's disease at hatch, so this should not be a
problem. Most starter feeds contain a coccidiostat to reduce the potential for
coccidiosis in the flock. (Nonmedicated feeds are available.) Antibiotics are available at
local feed stores but should be used only when absolutely necessary and then only
according to the label instructions.
If birds get sick, get a proper diagnosis from your local avian veterinarian or your state
avian pathologist. Call your county office of the OSU Extension Service for help in
finding these veterinarians.
Sanitation is your best defense against disease problems. Keep your facility clean, feed
only fresh, nonmoldy feed, clean waterers daily, and keep your flock relatively isolated
from other birds. Bird and human traffic in and out of your facilities is the single most
important means of bringing disease organisms to your birds.
Minor
Management needs
Sexing
Determining sex in chickens usually is easy. By about 4 to 6 weeks, males begin to
show comb, waddle, and spur development, and they begin to grow larger than the
females. Some species of game birds and waterfowl require "vent sexing," a somewhat
difficult procedure to examine their genitalia, to separate the sexes.
Flight prevention
Most chickens don't fly well, so flight prevention usually is not necessary. However,
most game birds and waterfowl may require grounding. The easiest method is to clip
the flight feathers of one wing; those are the 10 or 15 large feathers on the end.
Repeat the process regularly as feathers grow back after molting. Don't clip feathers
on exhibition chickens because that may disqualify or downgrade the birds.
Brailing uses a strap to prevent the bird from fully extending its wing for flying. The
brail strap should be moved to the opposite wing at least monthly so as not to cause
wing atrophy. Pinioning and tendonectimizing are permanent methods of flight
prevention. They should be attempted only by experienced growers or a veterinarian.
Picking
In confinement, many birds may begin to pick on each other, causing poor feathering
or areas of the body without feathers.
Various salves are available to reduce picking. Trimming about a quarter of the upper
beak with a toenail or dog-nail clipper will greatly reduce picking. For serious cases,
applying a plastic device called a spec, which prevents forward vision, is quite effective
(Figure 5). For maximum effectiveness, trim beaks or apply specs on all the birds, not
just on the aggressors.
SELF-CHECK 1.2-2
Instructions:
1. Arrange the scrambled words in the appropriate column which describes the
natural brooding and artificial brooding.
✓ No human intervention
✓ Hen feeds their chicks
✓ Has human intervention
✓ Human introduces several farming techniques
Artificial Natural
Brooding Brooding
Aftercare
2. What is the space requirement for broiler?
3. How many broilers can be place for a 5x5 square foot brooding box?
ANSWER KEY 1.2-2
1.
Artificial Brooding Natural Brooding
Has human No human intervention

intervention
Aftercare
Human introduces
several farming Hen feeds their chicks
techniques
2. For broilers, 0.75 to 1 square foot per bird.
3. 25-33 chicks can occupy the 5x5 brooding space.

Bedding materials
1. Aquire knowledge about beddings that can be use

2. Aquire knowledge on what are the common bedding materials being
used in the Philippines
3. Identify what will suit your budget
Introduction:
The litter you provide to your flock in their coop, run, nest boxes or other enclosures
isn’t just a luxury. Sufficient litter provides a secure foundation for chickens’ legs and
feet, a soft landing for eggs, a way to gather droppings quickly and the ability to easily
clean your birds’ housing. Here are a few of the more widely used bedding materials—
plus a few nontraditional ones—and how best to use them.
The Bedding Lineup

Both traditional bedding materials and non-traditional ones have their pros and cons,
but your options are manageable.
o Straw and Hay
Sun-colored straw, with its sweet, earthy smell and springy texture is what
many new chicken keepers reach for to line their coop and nest boxes.
o Pine Shavings
A popular and prudent choice for litter is pine shavings, found at many feed-
supply stores, big-box stores and even pet-supply stores. Pine shavings dry fast,
are inexpensive and don’t break down quickly, making them an ideal bedding
material. The mild pine scent is inviting, though it does fade over time.
o Cedar Shavings
Speaking of a pleasant aroma (and that’s a rare topic indeed where chickens are
concerned!), an alternative to pine shavings is cedar shavings. There’s much
debate as to the strong aromatic nature of cedar shavings and their effects on
chickens’ delicate respiratory systems, and it seems the jury is still out. To play
it safe, I recommend avoiding the use of cedar shavings with very young chicks
confined to a brooder.
However, many chicken keepers have used cedar shavings with success in their
coops with adult flocks, so long as the birds have other areas to inhabit besides
the coop. If you opt for cedar shavings, they’re easy to find at pet-supply stores
but are a little more expensive than pine; they do really smell great and work as
a natural insect-repellent.
o Sand
Sand, when used as coop bedding, is an excellent and very clean choice for
those who have the time to devote to it. While expensive initially, compared to
the alternatives listed here, sand as bedding in the coop need only be replaced
once or twice a year if diligently cleaned and contained.
Sand dries very quickly and can be turned over with a rake to employ the deep-
litter method (discussed below) or scooped with a cat litter scooper when used
in small coops. Sand is the flooring material of choice for outdoor runs that are
exposed to the elements frequently: It doesn’t break down, it dries fast and it
doubles as a great material for dust baths. Your chickens will love it, as mine
do. Be sure to use builder’s sand (found at home-improvement stores), as
sandbox sand is too fine and tends to clump.
o Grass Clippings
If you have enough, grass clippings are one viable coop bedding option, but they
have a few disadvantages. Clippings tend to retain moisture and break down
quickly. They also dry, shrink and smell. If you opt for grass clippings in the
coop, be sure they come from a yard that hasn’t been sprayed with pesticides,
fungicides, herbicides or other chemicals. Chickens will pick at anything and
everything in their coop–bedding is no exception, especially if there are bugs in
it!
o Shredded Leaves
This is an option if the leaves are finely shredded so they dry quickly. Whole
leaves take a long time to break down and are susceptible to harboring
moisture, sticking together and matting. Wet leaves make a slippery surface
that could lead to splayed legs or bumblefoot, especially in younger, growing
birds.
o Recycled Paper
A host of reclaimed and recycled manmade materials, such as shredded

newspaper or shredded office paper, are options. While they are free, use them
with caution. Ink can be toxic to chickens, and office paper is heavily processed
and treated. Glossy paper—the kind found in magazines and fliers—also
contains a large amount of ink and can create a matted and/or slippery surface.
For the Nest Box
In my opinion, pine or cedar shavings are the best bedding materials for nest boxes.
They dry quickly, offer substantial padding for eggs, and smell fresh and woodsy. If
you’re wary of using cedar shavings in the coop, the nest box is a great place to try it
out. Chickens are rarely in a nest box long enough for any aromatic oils to disturb
their respiratory systems (unless brooding, of course).
Mix in some crushed, dried herbs, such as mint, rosemary or lavender to keep certain
pests at bay. This is a common practice to naturally fight pests, and most chickens
don’t suffer any adverse effects from aromatic oils of the herbs.
For the Coop
For the chicken coop, it seems pine and cedar shavings would win again. (Again, this
is my article and my opinion!) For all the reasons mentioned previously, shavings are
the ideal material to line the coop. Using the deep-litter method ensures that even the
bedding doesn’t go to waste and doesn’t require a significant investment in litter to
have a healthy option for your flock.
For the Run
For an outdoor run, sand is the winner. Again, it dries fast, doesn’t break down, can
be easily turned over to use the deep-litter method, and your flock will love to dust-
bathe in it. I’ve never replaced the sand in my run; I’ve only added to it, as the dust-
bathing chickens toss it out!
Going Deep
The deep-litter method of coop cleaning involves a little preparation, timely attendance
and some calculated laziness. The idea behind the deep-litter method is simple: Begin
with several inches of bedding material, and build the bedding, lasagna-style. Add a
few more inches of material about once per month, give or take, depending on the size
of your coop, the number of birds you keep and how much time they spend in their
coop.
Include a bit of food-grade diatomaceous earth with each layer. Keep a rake handy to
turn the bedding over periodically—generally, about once a week. If you begin to see
flies, pests or an excess ofmanure, add more bedding and turn it more often.
The deep-litter method requires no more bedding material than any other method, but
it does accumulate over time and tends to trickle out as the birds come and go. Use a
plywood board or something similar at the coop door to contain the bedding.
The idea behind the deep-litter method is to allow the older bedding and chicken
waste to break down, slowly decomposing (and essentially composting) in the coop
while providing a bit of natural warmth. It’s also a fabulous method designed to save
the chicken keeper’s time, energy and back. The deep-litter method of coop
maintenance requires a full coop cleaning about once a year, and even that may be
more frequent than is needed. Use your eyes, nose and good judgment to determine
when you need to replace the bedding and start again. A clean, cared-for coop should
never emit odor.
Save Money: Use a Dropping Board
Chickens make the majority of their waste during the night when roosting, so the best
way to be frugal about the bedding you purchase and use in your coops is to install
and employ a dropping board or tray placed under the roosts. The boards will catch
all the nighttime waste, sparing your bedding of large amounts of waste trafficked
across the coop and will remain dry and (mostly) clean.
Dropping boards also make transfer of pure waste to composts easy and efficient. A
board can effectively be used in addition to the deep-litter method, and with both
methods combined, might save additional costs in bedding than if you were simply
employing one.
Unless your birds are kept in wire-bottom hutches (something I don’t recommend), all
coops need bedding. Remember, lining the coop with comfortable, quality litter isn’t
spoiling your birds; by providing them a soft foundation and keeping it clean, you are
ensuring the health of your flock, their comfort and clean eggs.
Philippine Setting
o Rice Hull
Availability wise is when rice hull comes, while in Philippines, rice hulls are
available almost everywhere, it can help promote less bad odor while
microorganisms are presents and making rice hulls as their home and sort of
food.
o Saw dust
Some might have doubts about this substrate but this is one is wildly available
in the Philippines; you can have it free or have it less expensive than others.
This will promote their habit of scraping their footsteps and searching of food
like insects from the dust.
SELF-CHECK 1.2-3
Enumeration:
List of chicken bedding that are locally available in the Philippines.
ANSWER KEY 1.2-3
1. Straw and Hay

2. Pine Shavings
3. Cedar Shavings
4. Sand
5. Grass Clippings
6. Shredded Leaves
7. Recycled Paper
8. Rice Hull
9. Saw dust
Learning Outcome 3
Feed chicken
Learning objectives
1. Identify nutrient requirement for chicken
2. Observe proper feeding management program for chicken
1. Suitable feed materials are selected based on availability in the locality and
nutrient requirements of chicken
2. Feed materials are prepared following enterprise prescribed formulation
3. Animals are fed based on feeding management program
4. Feeding is monitored following enterprise procedure
Contents:
1. Nutrient Requirement for Chicken

2. Feeding Management Program
Conditions
The participants must be provided with the following supplies & materials
• Pencil
• Pen
• Paper
• Ruler
• Calculator
• Eraser
• Record books
• Masks
• Rubber boots
• Weighing scale
• Calculators
• Pail
• Feeding trough
Assessment Method:
2. Demonstration
Learning Outcome 3
Feed chicken
Read Information Sheet 1.3-1 Nutrient If you have some problem on the
Requirement for Chicken content of the information sheet, don’t
hesitate to approach your facilitator.
If you feel that you are now

knowledgeable on the content of the
information sheet 1.3-1, you can now
answer self-check provided in the
module.
check again.
Read Information Sheet 1.3-2 Feeding If you have some problem on the
Management Program content of the information sheet, don’t

Source: Session Plan- Presentation module.
check again.
Perform Job Sheet 1.3-2 Feeding Chicken

Perform Task Sheet 1.3 Enumerating

alternative materials for chicken feeds

Nutrient requirement for chicken
1. Identify the basic nutrient requirement for your chicken feeds
2. Identify the importance in every nutrient for the chicken
3. Aquire knowledge about the right amount of feeds for your chicken as daily
need
Introduction:
Poultry diets must be formulated to provide all of the bird’s nutrient

requirements if optimum growth and production is to be achieved. There are six
classes of nutrients:
1. Carbohydrates – the major source of energy for poultry. Most of the carbohydrate
in poultry diets is provided by cereal grains.
2. Fats – provide energy and essential fatty acids that are required for some bodily
processes.
3. Proteins – required for the synthesis of body tissue (particularly muscle),

physiological molecules (such as enzymes and hormones), feathers and for egg
production. Proteins also provide a small amount of energy.
4. Vitamins – organic chemicals (chemicals containing carbon) which help control

body processes and are required in small amounts for normal health and growth.
5. Minerals – inorganic chemicals (chemicals not containing carbon) which help
control body processes and are required for normal health and growth.
6. Water. - is a polar inorganic compound that is at room temperature a tasteless

and odorless liquid, nearly colorless with a hint of blue. It is an important solvent
and is known as the "universal solvent" for its ability to dissolve many substances
FACTORS AFFECTING THE NUTRIENT REQUIREMENTS OF POULTRY

THE NUTRIENT REQUIREMENTS OF POULTRY ARE AFFECTED BY A LARGE
NUMBER OF FACTORS, INCLUDING:
• Genetics
(the species, breed or strain of bird) – Different species, breeds or strains of bird
have different average body sizes, growth rates and production levels and will
absorb and utilise nutrients from feed with different levels of efficiency. Therefore
they will require feed with different nutrient compositions. The genetics of
commercial poultry is constantly changing, and as a result, so are their nutrient
requirements. Consequently, breeders of commercial poultry provide information
on the specific nutrient requirements for the birds they sell.
• Age
Nutrient requirements are related to both body weight and the stage of maturity.
• Sex
Prior to sexual maturity the sexes have only small differences in their nutrient
requirements and males and females can usually be fed the same compromise diet
to achieve acceptable growth rates. Differences in nutrient requirements are larger
following the onset of sexual maturity and significantly different diet formulations
are then required for each sex.
• Reproductive state
The level of egg production in hens and sexual activity in males will affect nutrient
requirements.
• Ambient temperature
Poultry have increased energy requirements to maintain normal body temperature
in cold ambient temperatures and the opposite in hot ambient temperatures. Food
digestion processes produce body heat, the amount of which will vary according to
the nutrient composition of the diet. This is called the heat increment of the diet.
In cold temperatures it may be desirable to formulate a diet with a higher heat
increment and the opposite in hot temperatures.
• Housing system
The type of housing system will influence the level of activity of the birds and
therefore their energy requirements.
• Health status
Birds experiencing a disease challenge may benefit from an increase in the intake
of some nutrients, most commonly vitamins.
• Production aims
The optimal nutrient composition of the diet will vary according to production
aims, such as optimizing weight gain or carcass composition, egg numbers or egg
size. Poultry that are raised for breeding purposes may need to have their energy
intake restricted to ensure that they do not become obese.
Nutrient Requirements for meat chicken(broiler)
The intake of nutrients is defined by the nutrient levels in the feed and the amount
of feed consumed. Nutrient requirements of meat chickens (broilers) are outlined
below.
FEED CONSUMPTION AND BODY WEIGHT
There are a number of factors that influence voluntary feed intake. These are
discussed in the section on feed intake. Table 1 provides data on typical feed
consumption and bodyweight for modern broiler chickens in relation to age and
sex.
Table1. Bodyweight and cumulative feed consumption for male and female broilers
Male Female
Cumulative Cumulative
Body weight Feed Intake Body weight Feed Intake
Age (weeks) (g) (g) (g) (g)
0 40 0 40 0
1 170 150 165 145
2 450 480 420 460
3 865 1120 780 1030
4 1410 2020 1250 1825
5 2250 3200 1750 2830
6 2700 4500 2300 4020
7 3350 6000 2800 5400
8 3900 7400 3300 6800

9 4400 8800 3700 8200
Source: Poultry CRC
NUTRIENT LEVELS FOR BROILER DIETS
Feeding strategies for broiler

chickens will vary depending on the
target market for the final
product. Strategies for feeding broilers
destined for the whole bird market
will differ from strategies for broilers
destined to be sold as pieces.
Furthermore, the nutrient intake
of fast growing broilers must be
carefully controlled to
prevent metabolic diseases such as
ascites and leg weakness. Table 2
provides data on typical levels of selected nutrients for broiler diets.
Table 2. Examples of broiler diets

Starter Grower Finisher
Nutrients Units 0-10 days 11-24 days >25 days
Protein % 22-25 21-23 19-21
Mj/Kg 12.60 13.30 13.50
Metabolisable energy Kcal/kg 3010 3175 3225
Total Arginine % 1.48 131 1.11
Digestible Arginine % 1.33 1.18 1.00
Total Lysine % 1.44 1.25 1.05
Digestible Lysine % 1.27 1.10 0.92
Total Methionine % 0.51 0.45 0.39
Digestible Methionine % 0.47 0.42 0.36
Total Methionine +Cystine % 1.09 0.97 0.83
Digestible Methionine
+Cystine % 0.94 0.84 0.72
Total Threonine % 0.93 0.82 0.71
Digestible Threonine % 0.80 0.70 0.61
Total Trypophan % 0.25 0.22 0.19
Digestible Tryptophan % 0.22 0.19 0.17
Total Valine % 1.09 0.96 0.81
Digestible Valine % 0.94 0.83 0.70
Calcium % 1.0 0.90 0.85
Av.phosphorous % 0.50 0.45 0.42
Sodium % 0.16 0.16 0.16

Nutrient Requirement for egg laying chicken
The intake of nutrients is defined by the nutrient levels in the feed and the amount of
feed consumed. Nutrient requirements of egg laying chickens is outlined below.
FEED CONSUMPTION
There are a number of factors that influence voluntary feed intake (discussed in the
section on feed intake). Table 1 provides data on typical feed consumption for modern
brown-egg laying hens in relation to target body weight. From Week 18, hens start to
enter their laying period, reaching peak of lay around 32 weeks of age, and typically
maintaining egg production until 65-68 weeks of age. Feed intake will increase to a
steady level of 100-105 grams per day and hen body weight will reach a mature level
of 1700-1800 grams.
Table 1. Body weights and associated feed consumption for a brown-egg laying
breed during the growing period
Feed Feed
Body weight consumption consumption
Age (wk) (g) (g/bird/day) Age (wk) Bodyweight(g) (g/bird/day)
1 70 13 10 870-970 56
2 115 20 11 960-1080 61
3 190 25 12 1050-1117 66
4 280 29 13 1130-1250 70
5 380-390 33 14 1210-1310 73
6 480-500 37 15 1290-1370 75
7 580-620 41 16 1360-1430 77
8 680-750 46 17 1500-1540 80
9 770-860 51
GROWING PERIOD NUTRITION RECOMMENDATIONS
Chicks require a diet that can provide the nutrients needed for rapid growth and
feather development. Chicks are given relatively high levels of energy, protein and the
vitamins and minerals for the starter period. Once the chicks are fully feathered their
energy requirements are reduced. Feeding management for layer pullets aims to
maintain a growth rate that will lead to the pullet reaching sexual maturity at the
desired age while avoiding obesity. The stage at which a pullet will start laying eggs is
affected by age, bodyweight and day length. On a percentage basis, layer pullet diets
have lower energy and protein levels than chick diets. Different breeders recommend
different feeding strategies for their birds, including the number of different diets fed
during the pullet growing stage. Many breeders recommend a pre-lay diet that
increases some of the nutrient levels, such as calcium, that will be required by the
bird when it begins to lay eggs. Table 2 provides data on typical nutrient levels for
layer diets for the growing period.
Table 2. Growing period nutrition recommendations
Pre-Layer
Starter Grower Developer 15 wks –
Nutrient Units 0 – 6 wks 6 – 12 wks 12 – 15 wks Prod.
Protein % Min 20.0 17.50 15.50 16.50
Metabolisable
Energy Mj/Kg 11.5-12.4 11.5-12.6 11.3-12.4 11.4-12.4
Kcal/Kg 2750-2970 2750-3025 2700-2970 2725-2980

Metabolisable
Energy Kcal/Lb 1250-1350 1250-1370 1225-1350 1235-1350
Lysine % Min 1.10 0.90 0.66 0.80

Methionine % Min 0.48 0.41 0.32 0.38
Methionine +
Cystine % Min 0.82 0.71 0.58 0.65
Tryptophan % Min 0.20 0.19 0.18 0.19
Threonine % Min 0.73 0.55 0.52 0.55
Calcium % Min 1.00 1.00 1.00 2.75*
Av Phosphorus % Min 0.45 0.43 0.42 0.40
Sodium % Min 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18
Chloride % Min 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18

*At least 30-65% of the added limestone should have a minimum particle size of 2250 Microns.
NUTRIENT LEVELS FOR LAYER DIETS
The aim of layer diets is to optimise egg production (in terms of egg numbers, egg size
or egg mass), provide the nutrition required to safeguard health and maintain the
desired bodyweight. As with layer pullets, different breeders recommend different
feeding strategies for their birds, including the number of different diets fed during
the laying stage. Calcium is increased for egg shell formation. Table 3 provides data
on typical nutrient levels for layer diets.
Table 3. Examples of layer diets (at 100 grams per day intake level)
Nutrients Units 1-32 wks 32-44 wks 44-55 wks > 55 wks
MJ/kg 11.60-11.97 11.41-11.97 11.20-11.97 10.68-11.83

Metabolisable
Energy kcal/kg 2770-2860 2725-2860 2675-2860 2550-2825
Crude protein % 19.80 17.50 17.00 16.00
Lysine % 1.02 0.93 0.89 0.83
Methionine % 0.51 0.46 0.41 0.38
Linoleic acid % 1.10 1.60 1.60 1.60
Calcium % 4.40 4.25 4.50 4.75

Av.phosphorous % 0.48 0.40 0.36 0.35
SELF-CHECK 1.3-1
Enumeration:
In no particular order, identify six (6) classes of nutrient requirements for chicken
feeds.
ANSWER KEY 1.3-1
1. Carbohydrates
2. Fats
3. Proteins
4. Vitamins
5. Minerals
6. Water
Feeding management program
1. Acquire knowledge on how important Feeding management for chicken
2. Acquire the skills on managing the diet of chicken
3. Identify the allowable/acceptable amount of organic and non-organic feeds
Introduction
In order to be sold in the United States as organic, all agricultural products–including

domestic and imported poultry products–must comply with Federal regulations. The
United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), in cooperation with accredited
certification agencies, regulates the production and labeling of organic poultry
products under the Organic Foods Production Act of 1990 and the National Organic
Program (NOP), Section 7 of the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR), Part 205, also
known as the NOP Final Rule.
Regulations
This article explains the requirements for the production and labeling of poultry
products as organic in the United States. In short, all organic poultry operations that
sell over $5000 of organic products per year, and those who wish to sell their products
to be used as organic ingredients or organic feed by others, must be certified by a
USDA-accredited certifying agent. To sell organic eggs or poultry meat, birds must be
fed and managed organically from the second day after hatching. All agricultural
components of the feed ration, including kelp and carriers in feed supplements, must
be 100% organic. All poultry must have access to the outdoors.
Organic poultry producers must establish preventative livestock health management

practices. Medical treatment cannot be withheld from sick animals or flocks to
maintain the birds' organic status. The use of growth hormones, antibiotics, genetic
engineering, and animal cloning is prohibited, as is the feeding of slaughter
byproducts. All organic poultry production and processing operations, including
slaughter plants and egg handling facilities, must be certified by USDA-accredited
certification agencies. Detailed records of all feeds, medications, and transactions
must be maintained. Organic integrity must be protected by preventing organic birds
and poultry products from coming in contact with prohibited substances or being
commingled with non-organic products.
Definitions
Organic Production: The NOP Final Rule defines organic production as "a production
system that is managed…to respond to site-specific conditions by integrating cultural,
biological, and mechanical practices that foster cycling of resources, promote
ecological balance, and conserve biodiversity." This means that, in order to be certified
for organic production of livestock or poultry, producers must use cultural, biological,
and/or mechanical practices and employ ecological principles, such as natural
resource conservation and recycling of resources.
Livestock: Under the NOP Final Rule, livestock are defined as “any cattle, sheep, goat,
swine, poultry, or equine animals used for the production of food, fiber, feed, or other
agricultural-based consumer products; wild or domesticated game; or other non-plant
life, except such term shall not include aquatic animals and bees for the production of
food, fiber, feed, or other agricultural-based consumer products.”
Conversion of Birds to Organic Production
In order to be sold as organic, NOP Final Rule Section 205.236 requires that poultry
or edible poultry products must be from poultry that has been under continuous
organic management beginning no later than the second day of life.
Organic poultry, including birds used for meat or eggs, lose their organic status if they
are removed from the organic farm and managed on a non-organic operation. They
cannot be rotated back into organic production.
Records
Section 205.103 of the NOP Final Rule requires that all organic operations, including
poultry producers, must maintain records that: (1) disclose all activities and
transactions; (2) are auditable; (3) demonstrate compliance with all applicable
requirements; (4) are maintained for at least five years; and, (5) are made available to
organic inspectors and certification agencies.
In addition, §205.236(c) of the Final Rule requires that, “the producer of an organic
livestock operation must maintain records sufficient to preserve the identity of all
organically managed animals and edible and non-edible animal products produced on
the operation.” This means that all organic poultry must be grouped in flocks, or
otherwise identified, with corresponding records maintained of all health events and
medications or activities; all feeds and feed supplements purchased and consumed for
all stages of life; housing and pasture rotations; etc. Records must also be maintained
of all products produced, including meat and eggs.
Organic System Plans
NOP Final Rule § 205.201 requires that, in order to be certified, all organic producers–
including poultry producers–complete an Organic System Plan (OSP) that:
•Describes their production practices;

• Lists and describes all substances used and planned for use by the operation;
• Describes the monitoring practices used to assure that the operation follows the
requirements;
• Describes their recordkeeping system;
• Describes steps taken to prevent contamination or commingling; and,
• Provides other information requested by the certification agency.
OSPs must be updated annually, and certifiers must be informed at once of any
changes to the operation that may impact its compliance with NOP requirements,
including application of a prohibited substance to any field, facility, livestock, or
product that is part of the organic poultry operation.
Feed and Feed Additives
Section 205.237 of the Final Rule requires 100% organic feed for all organic poultry.
Feed is defined as “edible materials, which are consumed by livestock for their
nutritional value. Feed may be concentrates (grains) or roughages (hay, silage, fodder).
The term, “feed,” encompasses all agricultural commodities, including pasture
ingested by livestock for nutritional purposes.” In other words, all agricultural
components of the ration must be certified organic. Fields, including pastures used for
organic poultry and lots used for outdoor access, must be certified. Records must be
kept of all farm-raised and purchased feed and feed additives. Crop producers who
grow livestock feed for sale to organic poultry producers must be certified, and cannot
sell their feed as organic under the $5000 small farmer exemption.
Non-synthetic (natural) substances, such as oyster shells, calcium carbonate or fish

meal; and synthetic substances that appear on the National List, may be used as feed
additives and supplements. The only specific synthetic feed additive on the National
List for poultry is DL-methionine. The National List allows the use of DL-Methionine,
DL-Methionine-hydroxy analog, and DL-Methionine-hydroxy analog calcium (CAS #'s
59-51-8, 583-91-5, 4857-44-7, and 922-50-9) for organic poultry production at the
following maximum levels of synthetic methionine per ton of feed: Laying and broiler
chickens—2 pounds; turkeys and all other poultry—3 pounds.
FDA-approved trace minerals and vitamins are allowed in poultry rations, so long as
they are not derived from slaughter byproducts and do not contain any genetically
engineered ingredients, which are referred to as "excluded methods" in the NOP Final
Rule. No synthetic colorings, flavorings, dust suppressants, or flowing agents are
allowed, since none appear on the National List.
Feed used for organic poultry production must not contain:
1. Animal drugs, including hormones, to promote growth;

2. Feed supplements or additives in amounts above those needed for adequate
nutrition and health maintenance;
3. Plastic feed pellets;
4. Urea or manure;
5. Mammalian or poultry slaughter byproducts fed to mammals or poultry;
6. Feed, additives, or supplements in violation of the Food and Drug
Administration; or
7. Feed or forage to which any antibiotic, including ionophores, has been added.
Living Conditions
Organic poultry producers must establish and maintain year-round living conditions
which accommodate the health and natural behavior of the birds, including:
• Year-round access for all birds to the outdoors, shade, shelter, exercise areas,
fresh air, clean water for drinking, and direct sunlight, suitable to the species,
its stage of life, the climate, and the environment;
• Appropriate clean, dry bedding (which must be organic if roughages are used for
bedding); and
• Shelter designed to allow for:
o natural maintenance, comfort behaviors, and opportunity to exercise;

o temperature levels, ventilation, and air circulation suitable to the species;
and
o reduction of potential for livestock injury.
Yards, feeding pads, feedlots and laneways used for organic poultry must be well-
drained, kept in good condition (including frequent removal of wastes), and managed
to prevent runoff of wastes and contaminated waters to adjoining or nearby surface
water and across property boundaries.
Organic poultry producers may provide temporary confinement or shelter because of:
• Inclement weather
• The animal's stage of life
• Conditions under which the health, safety, or well being of the birds could be
jeopardized
• Risks to soil or water quality
• Performance of preventative health care procedures or treatment of illness or
injury
• Sorting or shipping animals
• Breeding
• Presentation at fairs or events
If it is determined that temporary confinement of birds is needed to protect the health,

safety, or welfare of organic flocks, then producers and certifiers may work together to
determine an appropriate method and duration of confinement of organic poultry
flocks without a loss of organic certification. The method of temporary confinement to
be used must be approved by the certifying agent and should provide the necessary
protection to the birds while meeting the remaining requirements of the NOP Final
Rule.
Continuous total confinement of any animal indoors is prohibited, according to the

NOP Program Handbook.
Please note that the NOP Final Rule requires that all organic producers must take
steps to prevent the contamination of water and minimize soil erosion. Organic
poultry producers must make sure that their birds do not cause erosion or
contaminate water resources. Organic poultry operations must manage manure so
that it does not contribute to contamination of crops, soil, or water by plant nutrients,
heavy metals, or pathogenic organisms, and that it optimizes the recycling of
nutrients.
Organic poultry producers must not use lumber treated with arsenate or other
prohibited materials in contact with soil or birds for new installations or replacement
purposes. The prohibition applies to lumber used in direct contact with organic
poultry, and does not apply to lumber used for fence posts or building materials as
long as the birds are isolated from the lumber by use of electric fences, netting or
other methods approved by the certification agent. If treated lumber was present prior
to application for certification, it may remain, but no new installations are allowed
where the birds are able to consume forage immediately around the posts, or rub up
against the wood in structures such as pens, runs or buildings. Rot-resistant,
untreated woods such as cedar, white oak, or black locust; and metal or concrete
posts, may be used. Certifiers are not typically concerned about paints, sealers, or
whitewash used in barns or other housing facilities.
Health Care
Section 205.238 of the Final Rule requires that organic poultry producers must
establish preventative health care practices, including:
1. Selection of species and types of poultry that are suitable for site-specific
conditions and resistant to prevalent diseases and parasites;
2. Provision of a feed ration sufficient to meet nutritional requirements, including
vitamins, minerals, protein and/or amino acids, fatty acids, and energy sources;
3. Establishment of appropriate housing, pasture conditions, and sanitation
practices to minimize the occurrence and spread of diseases and parasites;
4. Conditions that allow for exercise, freedom of movement, and reduction of stress
appropriate to the species (no caged laying hens, for example);
5. Physical alterations as needed to promote the poultry's welfare, performed in a
manner that minimizes pain and stress; and
6. Administration of vaccines and other veterinary biologics.
Physical Alterations
As stated earlier, physical alterations may be performed if they are done to promote
the poultry's welfare, and in a manner that minimizes pain and stress. Before
performing physical alterations, organic producers should check with their certifying
agent to make sure that the practice is allowed, and describe the practice and reasons
for its use in the operation's Organic System Plan.
The following physical alterations are typically allowed, provided that the conditions
described above are met:
Turkeys: Wing clipping or toe clipping.

Laying hens: Beak trimming or wing trimming.
Proposed Changes
The National Organic Standards Board (NOSB), who advises the USDA on
implementation of the NOP regulations, adopted a recommendation on December 2,
2011 that advocates prohibition of the following: (i) De-beaking, de-snooding,
caponization, dubbing, and toe trimming; (ii) Toe trimming turkeys unless performed
with infra-red at the hatchery; and (iii) Beak trimming unless performed within 10
days of age. The NOSB recommendation has not been implemented by the USDA.
The NOSB has also recommended that: (a) ammonia levels should be less than 10
ppm and must be less than 25 ppm indoors; (b) the confinement of birds in cages is
not permitted under any circumstance; and (c) minimum indoor and outdoor space
requirements be established for organic poultry.
The 12/2/2011 NOSB recommendation advises the NOP to establish the following
avian minimum space requirements:
• Laying hens and breeders: 2.0 sq ft/bird indoors, 2.0–5.0 sq ft/bird outdoors
• Pullets: 2–3 lbs/sq ft indoors, 2–3 lbs/sq ft outdoors
• Broilers: 1–5 lbs/sq ft indoors, 2–5 lbs/sq ft outdoors
• Turkeys and Geese—breeding, laying, or meat birds (pounds): Not specified in
final recommendation
• Ducks—meat: Not specified in final recommendation
• Ducks—laying: Not specified in final recommendation
• Ducks—breeder: Not specified in final recommendation
Approved Medications
For health care, §205.238 of the Final Rule states that, “when preventive practices
and veterinary biologics are inadequate to prevent sickness, a producer may
administer synthetic medications, provided that such medications are allowed under
§205.603 (the National List).” Use of these medications may have specific withdrawal
or “veterinarian prescription only” restrictions, and use of these medications without
following the specific restrictions can result in loss of certification.
Section 205.238 requires that an organic poultry operation must not sell, label, or
represent as organic any animal or edible product derived from any animal treated
with antibiotics, any substance that contains a synthetic substance not allowed under
§205.603, or any substance that contains a non-synthetic substance prohibited in
§205.604.
Section 205.238 also prohibits the use of animal drugs, other than vaccines and other
biologics, in the absence of illness; hormones for growth promotion; synthetic
parasiticides on a routine basis; parasiticides for slaughter stock; or the use of animal
drugs in violation of the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act.
Section 205.238(c)(7) requires that organic poultry producers must not, “withhold
medical treatment from a sick animal in an effort to preserve its organic status. All
appropriate medications must be used to restore an animal to health when methods
acceptable to organic production fail. Livestock treated with a prohibited substance
must be clearly identified and shall not be sold, labeled, or represented as organically
produced.”
National List
Examples of allowed synthetic substances on the National List include: ethanol and
isopropanol as disinfectants; aspirin; atropine; butorphanal; flunixin; furosemide;
magnesium hydroxide; vaccines and biologics; poloxalene; tolazoline; xylazine;
chlorhexidine for surgical procedures and as a teat dip; chlorine materials and
peroxyacetic/peracetic acid as sanitizers; electrolytes; glucose; hydrogen peroxide;
iodine; magnesium sulfate; phosphoric acid to clean equipment; copper sulfate;
lidocaine; hydrated lime; mineral oil; procaine; excipients in livestock drugs; and the
inert ingredients included on the EPA List 4.
As stated, many of the substances listed above contain restrictions on their use or
must be followed by extended withholding times. Check the restrictions or
annotations that accompany the substance, as stated on the National List, before use.
Make sure that the substance is listed on your Organic System Plan and keep records
of all uses. If you have any doubts about the status of a particular brand or
formulated product, check with your certifier before purchase or use.
Section 205.604 of the Final Rule contains a short list of natural substances that are
prohibited in organic livestock production. The only item presently on the list is
strychnine.
Excipients
Please note that excipients are allowed in medications given to organic poultry, but
only when the excipient is: identified by the FDA as Generally Recognized As Safe
(GRAS); approved by the FDA as a food additive; or included in the FDA review and
approval of a New Animal Drug Application or New Drug Application.
Excipients are defined as: “any ingredients that are intentionally added to livestock
medications but do not exert therapeutic or diagnostic effects at the intended dosage,
although they may act to improve product delivery (e.g., enhancing absorption or
controlling release of the drug substance). Examples of such ingredients include
fillers, extenders, diluents, wetting agents, solvents, emulsifiers, preservatives, flavors,
absorption enhancers, sustained-release matrices, and coloring agents.”
Parasiticides
At the present time, the only parasiticides on the National List are fenbendazole (CAS
# 43210-67-9), ivermectin (CAS # 70288-86-7) and moxidectin (CAS # 113507-06-5).
Parasiticides may only be used on: (1) Breeder stock, when used prior to the last third
of gestation but not during lactation for progeny that are to be sold, labeled, or
represented as organically produced; and, (2) Dairy stock, when used a minimum of
90 days prior to the production of milk or milk products that are to be sold, labeled, or
represented as organic. No parasiticides are allowed for organic egg or meat
production.
Processing and Labeling Organic Poultry Products
In order to be labeled organic, poultry slaughter and egg handling and processing
operations must also be certified. Organic products must not be commingled with
non-organic products or come in contact with prohibited substances during handling
or processing. All ingredients and other substances used in or on organic poultry
products during processing must appear on §205.605 or §205.606 of the National
List. Records must be maintained of all processing activities.
Product labeling must be legal and show a lot number or date code traceable back to
the flock or the operation where it originated. Though its use is not mandatory, all
operations certified by NOP-accredited certification agencies can use the USDA
Organic seal on products that contain at least 95% organic content and meet all
applicable labeling requirements.
SELF-CHECK 1.3-2
1. Excipients are defined as “any ingredients that are intentionally added to livestock
medications”.
2. Broilers: 3-4 lbs/sq ft indoors.
3. Broilers: 2–5 lbs/sq ft outdoors.
4. Organic poultry producers must not establish and maintain year-round living
conditions.
5. Urea is not good for chicken stocks.
ANSWER KEY 1.3-2
1. T
2. T
3. F
4. F
5. T
Learning Outcome 4
GROW AND HARVEST CHICKEN
Learning Objectives

1. Fill-up monitoring form
2. Record significant data
3. Treat sick stocks
4. Perform routinary activity
1. Growth rate is monitored based on enterprise procedures

2. Health care program are implemented based on enterprise procedures
3. Sanitation and cleanliness program are implemented based on enterprise
procedure
4. Organic waste for fertilizer formulation are collected.
5. Suitable chicken for harvest are selected based on market specifications.
6. Production record is accomplished according to enterprise procedure.
Contents:
1. Batch Recording & Monitoring
2. Health Care Program
3. Routinary Activity
Conditions
The participants will have access to:

• Pencil
• Pail
• Papers
• Record books
• Masks
• Rubber boots
• Weighing scale
Assessment Method:
2. Demonstration
Learning Outcome 4
Grow and harvest chicken
Read Information Sheet 1.4-1 Basic If you have some problem on the
Housing Features content of the information sheet, don’t

module.

check again.
Read Information Sheet 1.4-2 House If you have some problem on the
Equipment content of the information sheet, don’t

module.
check again.
Read Information Sheet 1.4-3 House If you have some problem on the
Equipment content of the information sheet, don’t

module.

check again.
Perform Job Sheet 1.4-3 Growing and
Harvesting Chicken

Batch recording & monitoring
1. Understand the importance of record keeping in poultry production.
2. Identify record keeping systems used in poultry production.
3. Complete different record keeping forms used in poultry production.
Introduction:
When it comes to chicken farming, we are always tend to miss the recording. It might
not so important but in the bigger scale, it is important to control your inputs and
output.
Record keeping is extremely important to successful poultry production.

A. Financial decisions-before creating a budget or making important and costly
financial decisions, records need to be analyzed.
B. Feeding decisions-records are useful in deciding what types of feed rations, the
quantity of feed rations, and the effectiveness of a specific feed ration.
C. Breeding decisions-when deciding which birds to mate, past breeding records can
be put to use.
D. Productivity of birds-records should be kept on the productivity of birds (eggs,
reproduction, pounds of meat, etc.) to be used when the flock must be culled.
There are several different types of records to keep in poultry production.
A. These systems vary by many factors.

1. Species raised - The records kept for different species of poultry are going to
differ because of the different uses. For example chicken records are going
to be different from turkey records.
2. Breed raised - Certain breeds are raised for a specific purpose (laying,
broilers, breeding), and therefore need different records.
3. Type of bird - The type of bird raised is going to determine the record
keeping system. Some chickens are raised for egg production (for
consumption), egg production (for repopulating), meat production, etc.
B. There are different records to keep for chickens.
1. Chicks – chicks are young birds before the growth process has started. The
records for chicks may include date hatched, date moved to pullet/broiler
house, feed consumption, and water consumption.
2. Pullets – pullets are birds growing to become layers. Certain records to be
kept for these birds include feed consumption, water consumption, and light-
dark hours.
3. Layers – layers are female birds that are in the stage of laying eggs.
Records needed include feed consumption, water consumption, and egg
4. Broilers – broilers are raised to be harvested for chicken meat to consume.
Specific records may include feed consumption, water consumption, weight,
average daily gain, days on feed, and processing date.
5. Breeding stock – breeding stock are used to produce birds to repopulate
the flock. Breeding date, birds mated, and hatching date are examples of
important records.
Whenever you begin a record keeping system, you must learn about the information
requested on each form.
A. Mortality (death) of birds – every day a record should be taken of any birds that
did not survive.
B. Feed used – daily records need to be taken on the quantity of feed fed to
birds.
C. Cost – Financial records must be kept of any items bought or sold, e.g. feed,
veterinary costs, equipment, supplies, birds, etc.
D. Vaccinations – Specific vaccinations may be needed, depending on the bird and
location of production facility. An accurate record must be kept to insure
sufficient withdrawal times.
E. Hens removed – Periodically hens must be removed from the flock when their
productivity is too low. Be sure to keep record of which bird, when she was
removed, and the reason for removal.
F. Eggs produced – Eggs must be collected and recorded daily. Be sure to include
any inconsistency noticed.
RECORD KEEPING SYSTEMS
Vary Depending Upon:

• Species
• Breed
Chickens
✓ Chicks
✓ Pullets
✓ Layers
✓ Broilers
✓ Breeding stock
INFORMATION ON FORMS
• Mortality
• Feed used
• Cost
• Hens removed
• Eggs produced
• Vaccinations
<SAMPLE>
BROODING RECORD
Date : _________
No. chicks started: _________
Breed or cross : _________
Mortality (number of chicks that died)
Week Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat Total

1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
6th
7th
8th
9th
10th
Total: _______
Feed Used
Chick starter ______kg Cost ______ Cost of fuel ________
Grower ______kg Cost ______ Cost of chicks _______
Broiler Feed ______kg Cost ______ Cost of feed ________
Other ______kg Cost ______ Others ________
TOTAL ______kg Cost ______ Total ________
Chicks dead to end of brooding period ____________

Weight of feed used per chick started _____________
Weight of feed used per chick raised ______________
Income (birds sold or used as broilers)_____________
Expenses ________________________
Net profit or loss ________________

<SAMPLE>
BROODING RECORD
Date : _06/24/16_
No. chicks started: ___50___
Breed or cross : _Kaber_
Mortality (number of chicks that died)
Week Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat Total

1st 1 1 2
2nd 1 1
3rd 0
4th 1 1 1 1 4
5th 1 1
6th 0
7th 0
8th 1 1
9th 1 1 1
10th 1 1
Total: 12
Feed Used
Chick starter _12.5_kg Cost __200__ Cost of fuel _75_____
Grower __25___kg Cost __600__ Cost of chicks _20000_
Broiler Feed __50___kg Cost _1600__ Cost of feed _2400___
Other __0____kg Cost ___0___ Other ___0___
TOTAL _82.5_kg Cost _2400___ Total _22475_
Chicks dead to end of brooding period 12

Weight of feed used per chick started 82.5/50=1.65
Weight of feed used per chick raised 82.5/38=2.17
Income (birds sold or used as broilers) 7000
Expenses 22475
Net profit or loss -15475

<SAMPLE>
PULLET GROWING RECORD

(Starts at 10th week and ends at the completion of week first eggs were laid)
Number of birds at 10 weeks _________
Mortality (number of pullets that died)

10th week _________ 16th week _________ 22nd week _________
11th week ________ 17th week _________ 23rd week _________
12th week _________ 18 week __________
th 24th week _________
13th week _________ 19 week ________
th 25th week _________
14th week _________ 20 week _________
th
15th week _________ 21st week _________ TOTAL _______

Vaccination Record
Date Fowl Pox Bronchitis Newcastle Cost
12th week
16th week
20th week
24th week
Total Cost of Vaccination _________
Weight Feed Used

Grower Other Cost
10th week
11th week
12th week
13th week
14th week
15th week
16th week
17th week
18th week
19th week
20th week
21st week
22nd week
23rd week
24th week
25th week
Total Feed Costs ____________
Number of birds that died during growing period __________
Feed weight per pullet for the growing period __________
Brooding costs __________
Pullet growing costs __________
Total cost to date __________
<SAMPLE>
PULLET GROWING RECORD

(Starts at 10th week and ends at the completion of week first eggs were laid)
Number of birds at 10 weeks _32________
Mortality (number of pullets that died)

10th week _0________ 16th week _2________ 22nd week _0________
11th week _2________ 17th week _0________ 23rd week _0________
12th week _0________ 18 week _0_________
th 24th week _0________
13th week _0________ 19 week _0_______
th 25th week _1________
14th week _0________ 20 week _1________
th
15th week _1________ 21st week _0________ TOTAL _7______

Vaccination Record
Date Fowl Pox Bronchitis Newcastle Cost
12th week 2 @250 0 0 500
16th week 0 0 2@600 1200
20th week 0 4@400 0 800
24th week 3@350 0 0 700
Total Cost of Vaccination 3200

Weight Feed Used
Grower Other Cost
10th week 20 kg 0 480
11th week 20 kg 0 480
12th week 20 kg 0 480
13th week 20 kg 0 480
14th week 20 kg 0 480
15th week 25 kg 0 600
16th week 25 kg 0 600
17th week 25 kg 0 600
18th week 25 kg 0 600
19th week 25 kg 0 600
20th week 30 kg 0 720
21st week 30 kg 0 720
22nd week 30 kg 0 720
23rd week 30 kg 0 720
24th week 30 kg 0 720
25th week 30 kg 0 720
Total Feed Costs 9720
Number of birds that died during growing period _7________
Feed weight per pullet for the growing period _16.2 kg___
Brooding costs _12920____
Pullet growing costs _15475____ (from WS: 3-2)
Total cost to date 28395

<SAMPLE>
MONTHLY LAYING FLOCK RECORD

Date hens started to lay ______
Number hens at start of laying ________
Number hens that died or were removed from the flock

1st month ___________________ 7th month ___________________
2nd month ____________________ 8th month ___________________
3 month ____________________
rd 9th month ___________________
4th month ____________________ 10th month ___________________
5 month ___________________
th 11th month ___________________
6th month ___________________ 12th month ___________________
Eggs Produced
Feed Used Cost
Monthly Egg Layer _________ kg _______
Totals Sales Oyster shell ________kg _______
Other ________ kg ________
1st month Total ________ kg ________
2nd month
3rd month
Feed per hen for period _________
4th month Average number eggs per hen_______
5th month
6th month Total egg sales _________
7th month
Total costs at start of lay ________
8th month Feed & other costs during
9th month lay_________
Total
10th month
__________
11th month
12th month Net profit or loss ___________
(Include in your records the value of all

eggs used at home. Calculate value
based on retail market price at time of
use.)
<SAMPLE>

Date hens started to lay _August 20_
Number hens at start of laying _27_______

1st month _1__________________ 7th month _1__________________
2nd month ____________________ 8th month _1__________________
3 month ____________________
rd 9th month _1__________________
4th month ____________________ 10th month ___________________
5 month _1__________________
th 11th month ___________________
6th month _1__________________ 12th month ___________________
Eggs Produced
Monthly Egg
Totals Sales Feed Used Cost
Layer _1200___ kg 28800__
1st month 811 2433 Oyster shell_600____ kg 16800__
2nd month 783 2349 Other _0______ kg 0______
3rd month 779 2337 Total _1800___ kg 45600__
4th month 742 2226
5th month 739 2217 Feed per hen for period_ 85.7 kg
6th month 706 2118 Average number eggs per hen 30.1
7th month 707 2121 Total egg sales _25584
8th month 675 2025
9th month 674 2022 Total costs at start of lay 28395
Feed & other costs during lay 45600
10th month 642 1926
Total _73995
11th month 638 1914
12th month 632 1896 Net profit or loss _-48411_
(Include in your records the value of all

eggs used at home. Calculate value
based on retail market price at time of
use.)
SELF-CHECK 1.4-1
Instruction:
Perform your recording. (5 points)

Date hens started to lay __JULY 20___
Number hens at start of laying ___27___
1st month ________1__________ 7th month ______1____________

2nd month ____________________ 8th month ______1____________
3rd month ____________________ 9th month ___________________
4th month ________1___________ 10th month _____1_____________
5th month ________1__________ 11th month ___________________
6th month ___________________ 12th month ___________________
Eggs Produced
Monthly Egg
Totals Sales Feed Used Cost
Layer _________ kg _______
1st month Oyster shell ______ kg _______
2nd month Other ________ kg ________
3rd month Total ________ kg ________
4th month
5th month Feed per hen for period ___________
6th month Average number eggs per hen ______
7th month
Total egg sales _________
8th month
9th month Total costs at start of lay ________
Feed & other costs during lay ______
10th month
Total __________
11th month
12th month Net profit or loss ____________
ANSWER KEY 1.4-1
ALL ARE ASSUMPTIONS

Date hens started to lay ___JULY 20___
Number hens at start of laying _27_______

1st month ________1__________ 7th month ______1____________
2nd month ____________________ 8th month ______1____________
3 month ____________________
rd 9th month ___________________
4th month ________1___________ 10th month _____1_____________
5 month ________1__________
th 11th month ___________________
6th month ___________________ 12th month ___________________
Eggs Produced Feed Used Cost

Monthly Egg Layer _1200___ kg 28800_
Totals Sales Oyster shell_600____ kg 16800_
Other _0______ kg 0______
1st month 811 2433 Total _1800___ kg 45600
2nd month 783 2349
3rd month 779 2337
Feed per hen for period 85.7 kg
4th month 742 2226 Average number eggs per hen 30.1
5th month 739 2217
6th month 706 2118 Total egg sales 25584
7th month 707 2121 Total costs at start of lay 28395
8th month 675 2025 Feed & other costs during lay 45600
9th month 674 2022 Total _73995
10th month 642 1926
Net profit or loss _-48411_
11th month 638 1914
12th month 632 1896
Health care program
1. Aquire knowledge on how important health care is
2. Identify early symtoms of illness
3. Aquire knowledge on how to prevent illness from spreading
Introduction:
Caring for pet chickens is pretty easy! They have the same needs as most
any other pet. In this section we'll fill you in on daily, monthly, semi-annual
and annual chores, as well as other nuances of chicken husbandry.
What to Do on a Daily Basis
• Keep feeders and waterers full.

• Make sure the waterer is clean. Chickens will be less inclined to drink
dirty water, and a dehydrated bird can very quickly become ill or die.
• Check to make sure they all look active, bright and healthy. Make an
appointment with your vet if they don't.
• Collect and refrigerate eggs, pointy side down for maximum freshness.
• If you've opened the coop door to let your chickens out, always be sure
to close and secure it at dusk (once they've all returned!) to make sure
predators can't get in. (Tip: if you have a cell phone that allows you to
set a recurring alarm, try that as a reminder.)
Keep in mind that you CAN leave your chickens alone for a few days
provided they have enough food, water and space for the duration of your
trip. The eggs they'll have laid in your absence should still be good to eat.
Fresh eggs keep for several days without refrigeration. Surprised? Consider
this: hens lay an average of 10-12 eggs per "clutch" (the group of eggs that a
hen sits on to incubate). They lay one egg per day and at the end of a 10-12
day laying period they roll all the eggs together to incubate them. That
means the egg laid on day 1 is still good enough on day 12 to become a
living, breathing baby chick - so it should be good enough for you to eat too!
Egg Tip: Your eggs may have some slight traces of dirt or chicken feces on
them. Resist the urge to scrub them clean! Outside the egg is a delicate
membrane called the "bloom" that wards off bacteria and other foreign
matter. Scrubbing will damage this membrane. If you're one of those Type A
people that needs perfect-looking eggs, rub them with your
fingersvery gently under warm water. Then, wash your hands thoroughly.
What to Do on a Monthly Basis
• Change the bedding in the coop and the nest. This is necessary for
sanitary purposes. Excessive ammonia buildup is dangerous to
poultry and can cause respiratory illness.
• Remove the feces. Put it in the compost bin or use it as fertilizer.
What to Do on a Bi-annual Basis
Twice a year you've got to really scrub your coop clean! Remove bedding,
nest materials, feed and water containers. For a cleaner, we recommend a
concoction of 1 part bleach, 1 part dish soap, 10 parts water. A strong citrus
cleanser will also do the trick. After cleaning, rinse well and let dry before
replacing with fresh bedding. Do the same with the feed and water
containers: clean thoroughly and rinse well, and replace with a fresh supply.
You should be able to do this all in a couple hours!
Foods Chickens Shouldn't Eat
As mentioned in the first chapter, one of the great benefits of having

chickens is they take care of your unwanted leftovers! There are a few foods
they shouldn't eat, though (and thanks to our customers for helping us beef
up this list over the years!):
• Citrus fruits and peels (they can cause a drop in egg production)
• Bones
• Any large serving of meat, or meat that has gone bad
• Garlic and onion (unless you want your eggs tasting like them)
• Avocado skins and pits
• Raw potato skins
• Long cut grass
• Chocolate (as if you'd give that up!)
Also, Morning Glories and Daffodils are poisonous to chickens, and even
though chickens will generally know to avoid them, you might just want to
keep an eye on them around these plants.
How to Handle Chickens
Handing chickens is an art, and practice makes perfect! The key is finding
the balance between being gentle and letting them know that no matter how
much they wriggle or squirm, they're not getting away.
First, put your dominant hand (the hand you write with) on the middle of
their back. If you're new to chickens, it's helpful to secure their wings as
much as possible with your thumb and forefinger. (Pros don't need to secure
their wings at all!) Your other hand will need to take their legs out of the
equation. Secure one leg between your thumb and forefinger, and the other
between the forefinger and middle finger of the same hand. Then lift them,
supporting the lower portion of their body with the heel of your hand and
wrist. Your dominant hand should still be on their back. Once you've got
them up, holding them close to your body will prevent further wriggling. And
again, as you get better at this you won't need that hand on their backs!
Winter Precautions
If you have cold winters, you shouldn't run into any problems provided
you choose the right breed. Our customers want to do the very best they
can for their flock, and we often get asked whether they should heat their
coop during winter. Our feeling is this isn't a good idea. Chickens adapt to
the cold weather over time. Their body metabolism actually changes along
with the seasons. When you heat your coop, the birds will never get used to
the colder outside temperature -- so if the heat were to accidentally cut out
causing a sudden change in temperature, you could literally lose your entire
flock overnight. We've seen it happen.
That said, if you live in a really cold climate there are a few precautions you
can take to make everyone's lives easier (by which we mean you and your
birds!):
• Protect combs and wattles from frostbite by rubbing on petroleum jelly

or another heavy moisturizer every few days.
• Make sure the water supply does not freeze! This is very important.
Chickens cannot live long without fresh water. If you don't have
electricity in your coop and therefore cannot provide a water heater,
we recommend you bring the waterer into your house every night, and
return it outside every morning. Check the water once or twice a day
to make sure it's not frozen.
Summer Precautions
Excessive heat is a real risk to birds. Make sure they have access to fresh,
clean water at all times. Provide them a source of shade outside and as
much ventilation as possible inside.
Note: Your hens may lay fewer eggs during heat waves. This is a sign of
stress, but laying rates will return to normal once the heat has receded.
Fertilizers & "Turf Builders": Are They Safe?
No, If your birds are free-ranging on your lawn, abstain from applying
fertilizers or "turf builders". These products very often contain pesticides,
herbicides and other harsh, nasty chemicals. Not only can these cause
illness in your birds, but you don't want to be eating eggs containing these
materials. Part of the benefit of keeping chickens is the comfort of knowing
that those fabulous, fresh, delicious eggs are safe for you and your family.
Fertilizers and turf builders negate all that. That said, we understand the
pressures of suburban life: if you can't be the only chump in the
neighborhood with dandelions and various other weeds, we recommend you
use organic fertilizers in the front yard and limit your birds to the back.
What to Do if Your Chickens Get Sick
Most chicken illnesses are curable if they're caught in time. If you suspect
one of your chickens may be under the weather, take the precautionary
measure of isolating it from the rest of the flock. This will help prevent
illness from spreading. (And of course, make sure the isolated chicken has
access to food and water)
Second, make an appointment with your veterinarian right away. You need
to find one that specializes in Avian medicine or farm animals, and we
recommend that you find the nearest one prior to getting chickens.
The following symptoms indicate illness:
• Mangy appearance
• Visible mites
• Abnormal stool, including blood, visible worms, diarrhea, droppings
that are all white. (Normal stool is brown with a white cap.)
• Sneezing
• Loss of energy or depression
• Sudden, drastic reduction in position in pecking order
• Loss of appetite
• Stunted growth
A few things NOT to worry about:

• Your chickens' first eggs will be pretty pathetic! They'll be small, shells
will be weak and some won't even have shells at all. Don't worry! This
is not a sign of sickness.
• Your chickens will lose and re-grow their feathers once a year. This is
called "molting" and is perfectly normal. They won't lay eggs during
this time.
• A tiny speck of blood in an egg. This is normal. Don't worry about it. If
it becomes frequent, or if there is a significant amount of blood, that's
another story.
Remember, the most important part of keeping your chickens healthy is

disease prevention. Follow the care instructions and coop specifications
above and you'll have a happy, healthy flock. However, as with any animal,
there's still a chance of illness. Since you'll be checking on your birds daily,
you'll catch the illness early and increase the chance of a positive outcome.
Dealing with Death
Losing a pet is always terrible, and chickens are no exceptions. If you've lost
your bird due to old age or a predator attack, bury it as you would any other
pet: a full funeral, bagpipes, the works. Dig a hole several feet underground
to prevent anything from getting at the corpse. If, on the other hand, your
bird displayed signs of illness or died suddenly, for no apparent reason,
you'll need to investigate. Either contact your veterinarian,
What About Bird Flu? (Aaah!)
Bird flu is this year's SARS. Nobody knows whether the dangerous A(H5N1)
strain of bird flu will mutate into a form readily transmissible from human
to human. It's a scary prospect, and the media love to speculate. If it does
happen, officials may recommend that all pet birds be culled. However, in
that case, we're all in trouble regardless of whether we have pet chickens or
not — because the danger of getting bird flu from your chickens will be just
as great as you getting it from your loved ones and perfect strangers. Given
all the unknowns, everyone must research this matter for themselves and
make the best decision for their own family.
If you do decide to keep chickens, common sense should prevail. Thoroughly

wash hands after contact, and wear gloves when dealing with their
droppings. A healthy dose of hand sanitizer immediately after contact is a
good idea too. We also set aside a pair of shoes that we use only for going
out to the coop. This pair of shoes never gets worn inside, or for that matter,
anywhere else. This prevents the spread of any feces which may be on the
bottom of our shoes.
SELF-CHECK 1.4-2
1. Any large serving of meat, or meat that has gone bad are good for our
chicken
2. Citrus fruits and peels are not good for our coops
Identification:
List at least (8) eight symptoms or indications of chicken illness.
ANSWER KEY 1.4-2
1. F
2. T
3. Mangy appearance
4. Visible mites
5. Abnormal stool, including blood, visible worms, diarrhea, droppings
that are all white. (Normal stool is brown with a white cap.)
6. Sneezing
7. Loss of energy or depression
8. Sudden, drastic reduction in position in pecking order
9. Loss of appetite
10. Stunted growth
Routinary activity
Learning Objective:
1. Perform routinary activities correctly base on daily, weekly, monthly and
seasonal
Introduction:
Keeping chickens happy and healthy, requires a bit of maintenance. Often I

tell people that the requirements are somewhere between keeping a cat and
a dog. The other day, I was glancing at the latest addition of the Martha
Stewart Magazine. Each month she proudly shares her private calendar
with her readers. She details everything from yard work, travel and yoga
lessons. I thought it might be easy to create a similar guide for backyard
chicken keepers like myself.
Like most pets, chickens require daily care. Even when we are on vacation,
we like to have a neighbor check in on them by collecting eggs and
replenishing their food and water. Usually, finding someone to chicken sit
is never a problem due to the reward of freshly laid eggs; cats and dogs can’t
do that!
I also like to mark my calendar for the less frequent duties. This helps me
to stay on track and recall when I last did a particular chore. So, here is
how we do things at Tilly’s Nest.
Daily
Fresh feed and water
Always be sure that your flock has plenty of fresh food and water. It is a
good idea to refill the waterers each day with new clean water.
Open the coop and close coop
I prefer to lock the flock in the coop during evenings for their own safety
from predators. Early each morning, I open the coop door and at dusk I
close the coop door. The best part about chickens is they usually put
themselves to “bed”.
Overall health check

Spend a few minutes each morning making sure that everyone comes out of
the coop and that they all seem to be eating, drinking and acting like
themselves. This is a very quick easy way to assess whether any chicken
feel under the weather.
Gather Eggs
If possible, I recommend gathering eggs a few times per day. This helps to
ensure that they stay fresh, prevents hens from going broody and
discourages egg eating.
Weather
Check to be sure your flock is prepared for hot days, snow storms, wind and
rain. If you are like me often you add a tarp to the run on not so nice days
and close the windows just a bit to prevent a wet coop interior. A shade tarp
also works nicely in the hot afternoon sun.
Light tidying
I try to scoop up any “messes” that I notice. For example, I will clean off the
roosts in the morning if I find they have been freshly soiled.
Treats
Chickens love treats. They are a great source of entertainment, prevent

boredom and also diversify their diets.
Weekly
Clean coop/tidy up
Each week I clean out the coop and replace the shavings. During the cold
Winters, I have been known to go sometimes two weeks. It just depends on
the amount of snow outside.
Refill Oyster Shells and Grit
These two important supplements are necessary for chickens to make strong
egg shells and digest their food properly. They should have a constant
supply that they can take from as they need. Small mounted plastic dishes
work great for this. I top them off once a week.
Raking out the Run

Each week I gently rake out the run, fill in any dust bathing holes and
remove any materials that don’t break down, such as old corn cobs.
Monthly
Stock up on supplies
Each month I take a trip to the local feed store and pick up a 50 pound bag
of feed and scratch. I replenish the oyster shells and grit and pick up a fresh
bale of pine shavings. I also love to check out new products and supplies.
Seasonally
Inspect and repair coop and run
Weather, predators and chickens can cause the coop or run to need
repairs. Once a season, you should inspect and make repairs as necessary.
Prepare for changes in weather
As the seasons change, so does the way you care for your chickens. This is
the time to prepare changes in temperatures and housing needs.
Deep Clean your Coop
This is the time to deep clean your coop. Scrubbing down roosts, walls
and floors with a bit of Dawn detergent, water and a splash of bleach.
Replace used items in your First Aid Kit
You should have a first aid kit for your flock. Injuries and illness can
happen very suddenly. Be sure all medications have not expired and be
sure you are fully stocked, especially with those frequently used products.
Remove excess soil in the run to compost
Each week after I clean out the coop, I toss the soiled shavings into the run
for the girls to help compost. They enjoy scratching in the shavings and it
keeps them busy for hours. Each month, I remove the excess from the run
and place it on the side to “cure” for at least 4 months before I place it in my
gardens. I do however, in the Fall apply it directly to the barren raised
vegetable beds. When planting time comes in May, the waste is cured.
.
SAMPLE Chart
GORIO’S INTEGRATED FARM
<farm name>
CHICKEN PEN #01-1
(Pen Area # - Pen #)
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Week 1
Clean
Refill
Week 2
Clean
Refill
Week 3
Clean
Refill
Week 4
Clean
Refill
MONTHLY
Restock
SEASONAL
Inspect
Repair
Prepare
First Aid
Deep
Clean
SELF-CHECK 1.4-3
Perform the given table (5 points)

CHICKEN PEN #01-1
Week 1
Clean
Refill
Week 2
Clean
Refill
Week 3
Clean
Refill
Week 4
Clean
Refill
MONTHLY
Restock
SEASONAL
Inspect
Repair
Prepare
First Aid
Deep Clean
ANSWER KEY 1.4-3

CHICKEN PEN #01-1
Week 1
Clean √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √
Refill √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √
Week 2
Clean √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √
Refill √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √
Week 3
Clean √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √
Refill √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √
Week 4
Clean √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √
Refill √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √
MONTHLY
Restock √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √
SEASONAL
Inspect √ √ √ √
Repair √ √ √ √
Prepare √ √ √ √
First Aid √ √ √ √
Deep Clean
√ √ √ √
TASK SHEET 1.3
Title: Enumerating alternative materials for chicken feeds
Performance Objective:
• Enumerate alternative materials for chicken feeds that are
available in the community
• Locate cost effective alternative materials without sacrificing
quality
Supplies/Materials :
• Pencil
• Pen
• Paper
• Ruler
• Calculator
• Eraser
Equipment :
• Cellphone
Steps/Procedure:
1. Read Information Sheet 1.3-1 and Information Sheet 1.3-2.
2. Identify available materials locally per element.
3. Enumerate feeding materials that are locally available.
4. Identify substitutes for your feed element base on locally
available materials.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
JOB SHEET 1.1-3
Title: SELECT HEALTHY STOCKS AND SUITABLE HOUSING
• Select healthy stocks
• Draft house for chiken
• Pencil
• Papers
• Masks
• Rubber boots
• Carpentry tools
• Calculators
• Feeding trough
Equipment :
• Feeding troughs
• Waterer
• Containers of concoction
Steps/Procedure:
1. Identify what breed of chicken you are going to take care.
2. Buy your preferred breed of chicken to the nearest possible
and credible breeders near your area.
3. Inspect healthy chicks before buying it.
4. Design house for your newly bought chicken in line with PNS.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.1
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Breed/strains breeds are identified as per PNS-
Organic Agriculture-Livestock and GAHP
Guidelines
2. Healthy chicks are selected based on industry
acceptable indicator for healthy chicks.
3. Suitable site for chicken house are determined
based on PNS recommendations.
4. Chicken house design is prepared based PNS
recommendations.
5. House equipment installation design is prepared in
line with PNS recommendation and actual
scenario.
JOB SHEET 1.2-3
Title: SET-UP CAGE EQUIPMENT
• Inspect draft for chicken housing
• Compute estimated cost for chicken house
• Buy materials for chicken house
• Install housing equipment
• Prepare and mixed bedding materials
• Install basic brooding facilities
• Place bedding materials to the finish housing and brooding
facilities
• Pencil
• Papers
• Bedding materials
• Brooding materials -1 gal. capacity tin can; charcoal
• Masks
• Rubber boots
• Carpentry tools
• Calculators
• Feeding trough
• Shovel
• Wheel barrow
Equipment :
• Saw
• Tape measure
• Try square
• Carpenter’s square
Steps/Procedure:
1. Create chicken housing for 27 chicks and housing for 6 breeder
size chicken.
2. Install housing equipment base on your housing design in Job
Sheet 1.1.
3. Prepare and mix bedding materials both for 27 chicks and 6
breeder size chicken.
4. Set-up basic brooding facilities for 27 chicks.
5. Place bedding materials to your finish housing and brooding
facilities.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. House equipment are installed in line with housing
equipment installation design
2. Bedding materials are secured based on availability in
the locality
3. Bedding is prepared in accordance with housing
equipment housing design
4. Brooding facility is set-up in accordance with the
housing equipment installation design.
JOB SHEET 1.3-2
Title: FEED CHICKEN
• Locate available feeding materials
• Buy materials to produce feeds
• Mix feeding materials for chicken
• Feed chicken
• Clean water and feed container
• Pencil
• Papers
• Record books
• Masks
• Rubber boots
• Weighing scale
• Calculators
• Pail
• Feeding trough
Equipment :
• Feed Mixer
• Corn Cracker
Steps/Procedure:
1. Look for available feeding materials in the locality.
2. Buy all feeding materials based on the chicken nutrient
requirement.
3. Classify feeds to be fed to different stages of chicken (starter,
fattening, and finisher).
4. Base on your adjusted feeding management program, prepare
feeds for chicken according to its dietary needs.
5. Clean your feeder/water container before and after feeding.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Suitable feed materials are selected based on
availability in the locality and nutrient
requirements of chicken
2. Feed materials are prepared following enterprise
prescribed formulation
3. Animals are fed based on feeding management
program
4. Feeding is monitored following enterprise
procedure
JOB SHEET 1.4-3
Title: GROW AND HARVEST CHICKEN
• Monitor chicken growth
• Treat sickly chicken
• Harvest chicken
• Pencil
• Pail
• Papers
• Record books
• Masks
• Rubber boots
• Weighing scale
Equipment :
• Protective Gloves
• Feeding Trough
• Syringe
• Wheel barrow
• Shovel
• Calculators
Steps/Procedure:
1. Monitor growth rate of chicken batch 2 months after brooding.

2. Collect waste or chicken poop daily for future fertilizer.
3. Feed fresh feeds to chicken daily.
4. Provide fresh water to chicken daily.
5. For laying hens, gather eggs daily.
6. Conduct overall health check-up twice a week.
7. Conduct weekly recording for growth rate.
8. Provide supplements to malnourished chicken.
9. Treat sickly chicken.
10. Perform alternative health care to weak chicken.
11. Supply healthy treats once a month.
12. Supply additional pebbles and shells monthly for additional
nutritive value for chicken.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST 1.4
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Growth rate is monitored based on enterprise
procedures
2. Health care program are implemented based on
enterprise procedures
3. Sanitation and cleanliness program are
implemented based on enterprise procedure
4. Organic waste for fertilizer formulation is collected.
5. Suitable chicken for harvest are selected based on
market specifications.
6. Production record is accomplished according to
enterprise procedure.
REFERENCES:
• http://www.backyardchickenproject.com/best-chicken-breeds/
• http://www.localharvest.org/blog/26992/entry/how_to_identify_a_healt
hy
• http://www.tillysnest.com/2012/07/caring-for-your-flock-on-daily-
weekly-html/
• http://www.mypetchicken.com/backyard-chickens/chicken-
care/chapter-7-caring-for-chickens.aspx
http://articles.extension.org/pages/69041/requirements- organic-
poultry for- -production
• http://www.poultryhub.org/nutrition/nutrient-requirements/
• http://www.hobbyfarms.com/7-coop-bedding-materials-and-how-to-
choose-the-right-one-3/
• http://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/1462/brooding-and-rearing-
baby-chicks/
• http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/typical-building-materials-
for-chicken-coops.html
INSTRUMENT FOR INSTITUTIONAL ASSESSMENT
EVIDENCE PLAN
Qualification Title ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NC II
Unit of Competency RAISE ORGANIC CHICKEN
The evidence must show that the candidate… Ways in which evidence will
be collected
Third party
Demonstrat
Question/i
nterview
Written
report
ion
• Selection of healthy breeds.
• Suitable chicken house requirements
• Chicken house equipments
• Bedding materials in making chicken

house
• Brooding facility requirements.
• Suitable feed materials.
• Feeding management program for the

chickens
• Implementation of Health care program.
• Sanitation and cleanliness program

• Growth rate of chicken is properly
monitored.
• Identification of chickens for harvest
• Records of production is accomplished

based on enterprise standards
Prepared Date:
by:
Checked Date:
by:
COMPETENCY ASSESSMENT RESULTS SUMMARY

Candidate’s Name:
Assessor’s Name:
Qualification:
Date of Assessment:
Assessment Center:
The performance of the candidate in the following

assessment methods – Raise Organic Chicken Not
Satisfactory
Satisfactory
[Pls. check (✓) appropriate box]
A. Demonstration with Oral Questioning

B. Written Exam
Did the candidate's overall performance meet the

required evidences/ standards?
OVERALL EVALUATION COMPETENT NOT YET COMPETENT
Recommendation
For re-assessment.
_______________________________________________________
For submission of document. Pls. specify (Portfolio Document)
_____________________
For issuance of NC ______________________________________________________
General Comments [Strengths / Improvements needed]
Candidate’s
signature: Date:
Assessor’s
Date:
signature:
RATING SHEET FOR OBSERVATION/ WITH ORAL QUESTIONING
Candidate’s
Name:
Assessor’s Name:
Assessment
Center:
Qualification: ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION
Unit of
Competency
Instructions for the assessor:
Date of observation:
Description of assessment
activity:
Location of assessment
activity:
If yes, tick the
During the performance of skills, the candidate….
box
• Showed dedication and enthusiasm toward the

learning process.
• Developed effective communication in the

workplace
• Demonstrated appropriate lines of communication

with superiors.
• Observed cleanliness and orderliness in the

workplace.
• Practiced courteous manner in the workplace. 
• Showed interest in any group activity given to

them.
Assessor’s signature: Date:
RATING SHEET FOR OBSERVATION/DEMONSTRATION WITH ORAL

QUESTIONING
Satisfactory
response
The candidate should answer the following

Yes No
questions:
• How will you be able to identify healthy stocks
from unhealthy stocks?
• What will you consider if you are planning to

make chicken house?
• In case there will be chicken infestation, what

measures are you going to do?
• What are the necessary requirements in

formulating chicken feeds?
• How will you determine when chickens/stocks are
now ready good for harvest?
The candidate’s underpinning knowledge was:

Satisfactory  Not Satisfactory 
Feedback to candidate:
The candidate’s overall performance was:

Satisfactory  Not Satisfactory 
Assessor signature: Date:
RATING SHEET FOR WRITTEN TEST
Candidate’s
Name:
Assessor’s Name:
Assessment
Center:
Qualification: ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NCII
Unit of
Competency
Instructions for the assessor:
Date of observation:
Description of assessment
activity:
Location of assessment
activity:
During the performance of skills, the candidate…. If yes, tick the box
• Identify the different breeds of chicken. 
• Determine the time of incubation period of


Chicken eggs
• Explain the importance of Candling Method. 
• Enumerate the different feed ingredients in


making organic feeds.
• Illustrate the different behavior of chicks in the


brooding cage during different cases.
• Determine the different precautions should be

taken in case disease/outbreak occurs in the 
chicken house.
Assessor’s signature: Date:
SUGGESTED QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS FOR OBSERVATION /

DEMONSTRATION
Qualification:
Unit of Competency RAISE ORGANIC CHICKEN
1. Explain how is the process of candling?

Answer:
2. How will you be able to Identify different characteristics of good stock?

Answer:
3. What will you do in case there is chicken infestation?

Answer:
4. What should you do in case the chickens are no longer productive?

Answer:
5. What should you consider in making a chicken house?

Answer:
WRITTEN TEST
INSTITUTIONAL ASSESSMENT
TEST I
Identification
1. It is a native chicken from Palawan. It has long legs, bigger body
than the rest, long neck and bigger head.
2. This native chicken has yellow to reddish lumage with black tail
and black wing feathers. It holds the wings close to the body.
3. This chicken is native to the islands of Panay, Guimaras and
Negros in the Philippines. Its wild ancestor is the red jungle fowl (Gallus
gallus) which is pervasive in Southeast Asia.
4. This is a heavy breed, with straight body posture. Also called
Basilan chicken, the Joloano breed is believed to have originated in
Mindanao and is commonly used for cockfighting.
5. This is a native chicken which is an improved breed of
the native bird, which has a very high market value in terms of egg and
meat production. ... “The poultry houses will also be used as breeding
houses of quality breeder stocks for future livestock dispersal activities in
the Ilocos region,”.
6. Originally are native chickens of France and now becoming
popular among big and small raisers. Resembling our own native chickens,
7. This type of chicken is an American breed of domestic chicken. It
is the state bird of Rhode Island.
8. Broiler type of chiken from China which is highly expensive
(P1000/kl). The chinese believe that it’s meat has medicinal properties
9. This type of chicken is any small variety of fowl, usually of chicken
or duck. Most large chicken breeds have a bantam counterpart, which is
much smaller than the standard-sized fowl, but otherwise similar in most
or all respects.
10. This type of breed of chicken originated in Tuscany, in central
Italy. These are good layers of white eggs, laying an average of 280 per year.
TEST II
Enumeration:
A. Name at least 5, Best Heat Breeds of Chicken
B. Give at least five (5) characteristics of a good stock.
C. In no particular order, identify six 5 classes of nutrient requirements for
chicken feeds.
D. Give at least 5 features in building chicken house
E. Give atleast 5 materials used in making chicken beddings
TEST III
1. Chicken housing is not important for chicken.

2. Bamboo & coco lumber are indigenous materials.
3. Buying substrate from other areas is cheaper than locally available
materials.
4. Airflow or ventilation is just additional to the housing, and not
important.
5. For creating floors, cladding walls, and sheathing roofs, sheet lumber
like plywood is typically used.
6. Wire mesh use not only limited for fencing and vent, but can also use by other
means.
7. Fish nets/diamond mesh nets can also use as chicken fencing.
8. Coco lumber is an example for farming.
9. Corrugated roofing panels of metal or fiberglass can be used as roofing.
10. Incubator is a poultry equipment which is used as nesting box
11. Excipients are defined as “any ingredients that are intentionally added
to livestock medications”.
12. Broilers: 3-4 lbs/sq ft indoors.
13. Broilers: 2–5 lbs/sq ft outdoors.
14. Organic poultry producers must not establish and maintain year-round
living conditions.
15. Urea is not good for chicken stocks.
ANSWER KEY:
TEST I
Identification
1. Paraoakan
2. Banaba
3. Darag
4. Joloan
5. Bolinao
6.Sasso
7. Rhode Island
8. Chinese Chicken
9. Bantam
10. White Leghorn
TEST II
Enumeration
A.
1. Easter Egger
2. Leghorn
3. Silkie
4. Plymouth Rock
5. Ancona
B.
1. No deformities
3. Dry behind
4. No rancid odor
C.
1. Carbohydrates
2. Fats
3. Proteins
4. Vitamins
5. Minerals
D.
1. Size
2. Flooring
3. Elevation
4. Nesting box
5. Ventilation
E.
1. Straw and Hay

2. Pine Shavings
3. Cedar Shaving
4. Sand
5. Grass Clippings
6. Shredded Leaves
7. Recycled Paper
8. Rice Hull
9. Saw dust
TEST III
True or False
1. T
2. F
3. F
4. T
5. T
6. T
7. T
8. T
9. T
10. F
11. T
12. T
13. F
14. F
15. T

Raise Organic Chicken Revised

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Raise Organic Chicken Revised

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Qualification: ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NC II

Unit of Competency: RAISE ORGANIC CHICKEN

Module Title: RAISING ORGANIC CHICKEN

TECHNICAL EDUCATION AND SKILLS DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY

Welcome to the Module Raise Organic Chicken. This module contains

The unit of competency Raising Organic Chicken is one of the Core

You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to

Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)

If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

Raise Organic Raising Organic AGR612301

Produce Organic Producing Organic AGR611306

Produce Organic Producing Organic AGR611301

Produce Organic Producing Organic

UNIT OF COMPETENCY: RAISE ORGANIC CHICKEN

MODULE TITLE: RAISING ORGANIC CHICKEN

NOMINAL DURATION: 30 Hours

1. Breed/strains are identified as per PNS-Organic Agriculture-Livestock and GAHP

1. Types breeds and strains of chicken

1. Breed/strains are identified as per PNS-Organic Agriculture-Livestock and GAHP

The participants will have access to:

If you feel that you are now knowledgeable

2. Answer Self-Check 1.1-1 Compare your answer to the answer key

If you feel that you are now knowledgeable

4. Answer Self-Check 1.1-2 Compare your answer to the answer key

6. Answer Self-Check 1.1-3 Compare your answer to the answer key

If you feel that you are now knowledgeable

Egg-Type Breed ORIGIN CHARACTERISTICS/

Use: A small fowl that

Status: Rare. The

General Purpose (Dual-purpose) ORIGIN CHARACTERISTICS/

4. Nagoya This breed was • The Nagoya breed has a

NATIVE CHICKEN BREEDS IN THE PHILIPPINES

Consider Climate First

Cold Climate Breeds

Best Cold Hardy Breeds:

Warm Climate Breeds

Best Heat Hardy Breeds:

CHARACTERISTICS OF A GOOD BREED/STOCK

True or False: Write T if the statement is correct and F if otherwise.

After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:

1. List chicken housing equipment’s

▪ The house must have to keep dry and clean always.

Egg Handling Nest

Coops and Cages

True or False: Write T if the statement is correct and F if otherwise.

7 Design Details to Build into Your Coop

True or False: Write T if the statement is correct and F if otherwise.

1. Chicken housing is not important for chicken.

Enumeration: In no particular order

At the end of this module you MUST be able to:

1. Gather housing materials available in the community

If you feel that you are now knowledgeable

Source: Session Plan- Presentation

If you feel that you are now knowledgeable

Source: Session Plan- Presentation

If you feel that you are now knowledgeable

Evaluate your own output using

After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:

1. Distinguish affordable housing materials

True or False: Write T if the statement is correct and F if otherwise.

After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to: