Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Industrial Crops & Products

journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/indcrop

CosIng database analysis and experimental studies to promote Latin T

American plant biodiversity for cosmetic use
Karent Bravo, Camilo Quintero, Catalina Agudelo, Stiveen García, Adriana Bríñez, Edison Osorio*
Grupo De Investigación En Sustancias Bioactivas, Facultad De Ciencias Farmacéuticas y Alimentarias, Universidad De Antioquia, Calle 70 No. 52-21, Medellín, Colombia

A R T I C LE I N FO A B S T R A C T

Keywords: Although Latin America is one of the regions with the greatest plant diversity on the planet and, its commercial
Latin America biodiversity exploitation has not impacted the economic growth of Latin American countries, with the exception of Brazil.
CosIng The great plant biodiversity of Latin American countries is an opportunity for the development of sustainable
Cosmetic and innovative cosmetic ingredients and products. Some studies have focused on identifying the potential
Plants
cosmetic use of Latin American plants. However, their commercial use is not possible due to their limited
availability as raw materials, their safety has not been proven, and their lack of inclusion in international lists.
This study analyzed plant species in the CosIng database for UV-filtering, UV-absorbing, bleaching, skin-pro-
tecting, and antioxidant functions and assayed the properties of potential plants by in vitro assays to promote the
cosmetic use of biodiverse Latin American plants. The results showed that the majority of cosmetic ingredients
listed in CosIng are from Asiatic plants, while 9 % are from Latin American plants. Approximately half of the
registered plants in CosIng are commercialized as cosmetic ingredients. In addition, 28 % of the plants registered
in CosIng occur in Colombia, but of these, only 30 % are native. The experimental analysis showed that the Bixa
orellana, Theobroma cacao, and Eugenia stipitata extracts had the highest skin protective activity due to their
capacity to inhibit collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase enzymes. B. orellana and Euterpe oleracea extracts
showed the highest antioxidant capacity, phenol contents, and spectrophotometric sun protection factor
(SPFspectrophotometric) values. B. orellana, E. oleracea, and E. stipitata extracts showed photoprotective properties in
human dermal fibroblasts due to the reduction of cell death, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production,
and reactive oxygen spices (ROS) production and an increase in pro-collagen production after ultraviolet (UV)
exposure. Finally, a list of Latin American plants with possible cosmetic applications is presented proving the
great potential of Latin American plant biodiversity and its low commercial exploitation in the cosmetic in-
dustry. This study evidences the antioxidant and skin protecting actions of Latin American plants and it is
presented as a tool for the identification of vegetable species of Latin American biodiversity with potential
cosmetic use to sustainable and short-term commercial exploitation.

1. Introduction of consumers pursuing healthier lifestyles demands products that are

natural, sustainable, and safe for themselves and the environment.
The ancient customs that promote the use of plants and other nat- Thus, the cosmetic industry has gained interest in plant ingredients and
ural sources to enhance beauty, promote healthy skin, and treat skin natural cosmetics; moreover, the size of the global natural cosmetics
conditions are reborn today (González-Minero et al., 2018). The trend market was estimated to be US $34.5 billion in 2018 and is expected to

Abbreviations: AAPH, 2,2-azo-bis (2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride; BSA, bovine serum albumin; CAGR, compound annual growth rate; CosIng, European
Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients; CPT, total phenolics content; DCFDA, 2´, 7´-dichlorofluorescein diacetate; DMEM,
Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium; DPPH, 2,2-difenil-1-picrilhidracilo; EC, European Commission; ECM, Extracellular matrix; EGCG, epiogallocatechin-gallate;
ELISA, enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay; FBS, fetal bovine serum; FRAP, ferric ion reducing antioxidant power; GA, Gallic acid; HA, Hyaluronic acid; HDFa,
human dermal fibroblast adults; MMP-1, Matrix metalloproteinase-1; ONUDI, organización de las naciones unidas para el desarrollo industrial; ORAC, oxygen radical
absorbance capacity; PBS, phosphate buffered saline; PCPC, personal care products council; POWO, the plants of the world online portal; ROS, Reactive oxygen
species; SD, standard deviation; SPF, Sun protection factor; THFα, tumor necrosis factor α; TPTZ, (2, 4, 6-tripyridyl-s-triazine); UV, ultraviolet; WST-8, 2-(2-methoxy-
4-nitrophenyl)-3-(4-nitrophenyl)-5-(2,4-disulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium
⁎
Corresponding author.
E-mail address: edison.osorio@udea.edu.co (E. Osorio).

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2019.112007
Received 15 July 2019; Received in revised form 8 October 2019; Accepted 27 November 2019
Available online 06 December 2019
0926-6690/ © 2019 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
K. Bravo, et al.
reach US $54.4 billion by 2027 at a compound annual growth rate
(CAGR) of 5.2 %, largely owing to skin and hair care products being the
most demanded (Future Market Insights, 2019). Therefore, the great
plant biodiversity of Latin America, with the largest number of vascular
plant species on the world (Euromonitor International, 2019a), pro-
vides great opportunities for the growth of the Latin American cosmetic
sector and for the development of natural, innovative, and sustainable
ingredients and cosmetic products. Brazil, Colombia, Mexico, Peru,
Ecuador, and Venezuela are in the top 10 list of the most biodiverse
countries (Butler, 2016). Latin American countries may produce the
raw material for cosmetic natural ingredients, but the processes of re-
fining and generating added value are done in India, United States,
China, Germany, Italy, France, and Spain (Programa Safe+and ONUDI,
2015). These practices generate minor economic gains for the produc-
tive countries, but they do not contribute added value to the sector,
affecting the suitable and profitable use of Latin American plant bio-
diversity.
Some studies have focused on understanding the bioactive potential
of Latin American plants. Plant characteristics related to skin care such
as antioxidant (Chirinos et al., 2013; Mieres-Castro et al., 2019; Silva
et al., 2007), anti-aging (Bravo et al., 2016, 2017), anti-inflammatory
(Jiménez et al., 2015; Torres Carro et al., 2015), photoprotective
(Nunes et al., 2018; Wróblewska et al., 2019), and wound healing
(Burlando et al., 2017; Heil et al., 2017) properties have been evaluated
with interesting results. However, the commercial exploitation of these
plants is not possible due to their limited availability as raw material,
their safety has not been proven and their lack of inclusion in inter-
national lists of cosmetic ingredients such as those published by the
European Commission (CosIng) or Personal Care Products Council
(PCPC). CosIng is a database created by the European Commission (EC)
with information on cosmetic ingredients contained in Cosmetics Reg-
ulation (EC) no. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the
Council to inform the public of cosmetic ingredients that are accepted
and their functions, restrictions or use conditions (European
Commission, 2017). Cosmetic companies must use ingredients regis-
tered in this database to market their cosmetic products in the European
Union. Many countries follow this regulation since their objective is to
export cosmetic products to Europe. Furthermore, local regulatory or-
ganizations promote the use of this database to sustain the efficacy of
cosmetic ingredients and products.
In the world, it is estimated that there are 391.000 vascular plant
species known to science, and only approximately 31.000 of those plant
species have a documented use, of which more than 17.000 have
medicinal uses (RBG Kew, 2016), including personal care or cosmetic
use. However, although there may be many other plant sources of
medicine or cosmetic ingredients to discover, their commercial use
would involve high investments of time and money to demonstrate
their safety and efficacy and include them in international lists of in-
gredients (in the case of cosmetic use). Thus, strategies that promote the
suitable use of biodiverse plants as a source of cosmetic ingredients
could cover the development of cosmetic ingredients and products from
plants registered in these lists, cover research of other uses and appli-
cations and improve ingredients from species included in CosIng or
PCPC. The cosmetic ingredient database by European Commission
(CosIng) contains 26.925 cosmetic ingredients to date, many of which
include plant sources unknown to researchers, entrepreneurs, suppliers
of cosmetic ingredients, and cosmetic companies. Therefore, a study of
the registered information is necessary to contribute with a real cos-
metic application. The objective of this work was to analyze biodiverse
Latin American plants for cosmetic use through information collected
from the CosIng database and to confirm their properties by chemical,
enzymatic, and cellular assays. For this, a database of plants of Latin
American origin registered in CosIng for antioxidant, skin-protecting,
UV-filtering, UV-absorbing, and bleaching functions is provided. In
addition, the database was refined to a list of native plants of this region
that have the potential to be exploited in a sustainable manner in the
2
Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007
short term (with cash crops). This list of plants was analyzed experi-
mentally for skin protecting and antioxidant properties through in vitro
tests.
2. Materials and methods
The database was developed in 4 phases: the first was the collection
of information from CosIng, the second phase consisted of the search for
plant information, the third phase focused on the information analysis
and categorization of plants, and the fourth and last phase concluded
with the evaluation of properties by in vitro assays.
2.1. Collection of information from the CosIng database
The cosmetic ingredient database by European Commission
(CosIng) (European Commission, 2017) was utilized as an information
source. All ingredient lists for the antioxidant, skin-protecting, UV-fil-
tering, UV-absorbing, and bleaching functions were compiled and the
plant species were selected.
2.2. Acquisition of plant information
After obtaining the list of plants for each function of interest, the
taxonomic family, the common name, the continental origin, the geo-
graphic distribution, the nature, and the distribution in Colombia were
acquired. The search was performed with reliable academic sources
such as the Catalog of Plants and Lichens of the National University of
Colombia (Bernal et al., 2015), the Plant Finder of the Missouri Bota-
nical Garden (Missouri Botanical Garden, 2019), the Plants of the World
online portal – POWO (RBG Kew, 2015), the Information System on the
Biodiversity of Colombia (SiB Colombia, 2019), and the Biovirtual tool
of the National University of Colombia (Bernal et al., 2017). The
commercial availability of cosmetic ingredients or products based on
selected plants was checked in the ingredient database from in-cosmetic
Global (SpecialChem, 2019) and the Prospector website (UL, 2019),
reputable sources of information about the most important and major
cosmetic ingredient suppliers in the world.
2.3. Information analysis and categorization of plants
With the collected information about plants, an analysis by dynamic
tables in Excel was performed to determine the origin range, taxonomic
family, and commercial availability of cosmetic ingredients with the
functions of interest from plants listed in CosIng. Those plant species
native to Latin America and distributed in Colombia were selected.
Since the objective of this study was to determine exploitable plants in
the short term, as potential plants were selected, those species with
record crop or commercialization data were selected. For this purpose
and to locate the distribution areas of crops, the information and
communication network of the Colombian Agricultural Sector
(Agronet) (Ministerio de Agricultura y Desarrollo Rural, 2017) was
utilized.
2.4. In vitro evaluation of the functions of interest
2.4.1. Collection of plant material
The CosIng database analysis allowed us to obtain a list of plant
species native to Colombia and other Latin American countries that are
wild-harvested or cultivated. A selection of listed plants were collected
and evaluated. Opuntia ficus-indica L. Mill, Solanum tuberosum L.,
Cyclanthera pedate L. Schrad, and Cucurbita pepo L. seeds were pur-
chased in “La Mayorista”, a large local market in Medellín, Colombia.
Capsicum annuum L., Zea mays L., Solanum lycopersicum L., and Lippia
alba Mill N. E. Brow, were obtained from local growers from San
Cristobal–Antioquia. Flowers of Bougainville glabra Choisy. were col-
lected in Bello–Antioquia. Theobroma cacao L. was provided by
K. Bravo, et al.
producers in Apartadó–Antioquia. Euterpe oleracea Mart. was obtained
from a farm in Cimitarra in the Santander Department. Myrciaria dubia
McVaugh., Theobroma grandiflorum Willd. Ex Spreng. K. Schum., and
Plukenetia volubilis L. oil were purchased from local markets in
Leticia–Amazonas. Bixa Orellana L., Annona squamosa L., Annona cher-
imola Mill., and Passiflora quadrangularis L. were provided by local
growers in Tadó, Department of Chocó. Eugenia stipitata McVaugh. was
purchased from a local market in La Tulia, Department of Valle del
Cauca. Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze, was purchased commercially in
specialized stores. The plant segments used are described in Table 6.
2.4.2. Preparation of plant extracts
The plant material was washed and disinfected with sodium hypo-
chlorite. Then, it was processed in a colloidal mill to obtain a homo-
geneous paste. Nine extraction systems containing hydroalcoholic
mixtures or different proportions of water, ethanol, propylene glycol,
and glycerine were tested with 3 randomly selected plants. The system
that allowed obtain extracts with the highest antioxidant activity and
total polyphenol content (TPC) was selected as the extraction solvent.
Eight grams of paste were extracted with 40 mL of mix of ethanol,
water, propylene glycol, and glycerin in a proportion of 40:10:25:25,
respectively, by conventional ultrasound during 90 min. The extracts
were centrifuged and the supernatants were completed to 50 mL with
extraction solvent. L. alba essential oil was extracted by hydro dis-
tillation using a Clevenger-type apparatus. One milliliter of extract was
prepared retaining the proportion and conditions described above. The
Sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.) oil was evaluated directly. To all
pastes, the soluble solid content was measured in a moisture balance.
Finally, the extracts were stored at 4 °C until use.
2.4.3. Evaluation of antioxidant properties
The antioxidant properties of potential plants were evaluated by
assays ORAC and FRAP. In addition, the TPC was measurement by
Folin-Ciocalteau assay. Procedures described in previous studies were
followed without modifications (Bravo et al., 2016). To ORAC assay
Fluorescein, AAPH and the samples were prepared in phosphate buffer
(75 mM, pH 7.4). Twenty five microliters of extract solution of Trolox
standard was mixed with 150 μL of fluorescein (1 μM) and preincubated
at 37 °C for 30 min. Then, 25 μL of AAPH solution (200 mM) were
added. The fluorescence at an excitation wavelength of 485 nm and an
emission wavelength of 520 nm was measured every 2 min for 120 min
using a Synergy HT Multi-Mode Microplate Reader (BioTek Instru-
ments, Inc.; Winooski, USA). To FRAP assay a working solution con-
tained 300 mM of acetate buffer (pH 3.6), 40 mM of TPTZ, and 20 mM
of FeCl3.6H2O in water at a 10:1:1 ratio (v:v:v) was prepared. Samples
and the working FRAP solution were mixed at a 1:25 ratio for 10 min at
37 °C in the dark. The absorbance was read at 593 nm using a Synergy
HT Multi-Mode Microplate Reader. To TPC assay, 30 μL of extract so-
lutions were mixed with 150 μL Folin–Ciocalteu reagent diluted with
distilled water (1:10). After 3 min, 100 μL sodium carbonate (75 mg/
mL) was added. The plate was vortexed and incubated for 60 min
protected from light. The absorbance was read at 760 nm. In three
assays the quantification was calculated using a calibration curve with
Trolox (ORAC and FRAP) or gallic acid (GA) standards of known con-
centrations. The results to ORAC and FRAP assays were expressed as
μmol Trolox equivalent per g of total solids (μmol TE/gS). The results of
TPC were expressed as mg of gallic acid per g of total solids (mg GAEq/
gS).
2.4.4. Evaluation of skin-protecting properties
Screening methods were used to evaluate the skin-protecting ability
of plant extracts to inhibit the enzymes collagenase, elastase, and
hyaluronidase, which degrade the extracellular matrix (ECM) compo-
nents collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, respectively. Additionally,
the effect of plant extracts on the tyrosinase enzyme was measured to
screen for any bleaching functionality of the plant extracts. Tyrosinase
3
Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007
is a key enzyme in normal melanin synthesis in melanocytes and in skin
hyperpigmentation. Previously, described procedures for the enzymatic
inhibition assays were followed without modifications (Bravo et al.,
2016).
To collagenase assay, aliquots of 80 μL of extract solutions or buffer
(control) were mixed with 20 μL of 125 μg/mL DQ-collagen type I from
bovine skin substrate and 100 μL of 1 U/mL enzyme solution into a 96-
well plate. To elastase assay, aliquots of 50 μL of extract solutions or
buffer (control) were mixed with 50 μL of 125 μg/mL DQ-elastine
substrate and 100 μL of 0.5 U/mL enzyme solution. The fluorescence
intensity was measured by a Synergy HT Multi-Mode Microplate Reader
(BioTek Instruments, Inc.; Winooski, USA) for excitation at 485 nm and
emission detection at 515 nm at each minute for 30 min. To hyalur-
onidase assay, 30 μL of sample solution or sodium phosphate buffer (20
mM, pH 7.0) with sodium chloride (77 mM) and bovine serum albumin
(BSA) (0.01 %, control) were pre-incubated with 90 μL of 12 U/mL
hyaluronidase from the bovine test, for 10 min at 37 °C in a water bath.
Subsequently, 120 μL of 0.2 mg/mL hyaluronic acid sodium salt (300
mM) pH 5.35 were added. The mixture was incubated for 45 min at 37
°C. Then, 100 μL of mix assay containing undigested hyaluronic acid
were precipitated with 500 μL of acid albumin solution, made up of
bovine serum albumin (0.1 %) in sodium acetate (24 mM) and acetic
acid (79 mM), (pH 3.75). The mixture was allowed to stand at room
temperature for 10 min, and then the absorbance was measured at 600
nm. To tyrosinase assay, 70 μL of sample solutions prepared in phos-
phate buffer (50 mM, pH 6.5) or buffer (control) were mixed with 30 μL
of 333 U/mL mushroom tyrosinase and 110 μL of 2 mM L-tyrosine so-
lution into a 96-well plate. The absorbance was measured at 480 nm
each minute for 30 min. To collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase assay
the plant extracts were evaluated to 320 mg of total solids per L (320
mg/L). To hyaluronidase assay, the extracts are proved to 160 mg solid/
L. Each reaction was performed in triplicate. To collagenase and elas-
tase assays, oleanolic acid was used as positive control while hyalur-
onidase assay used epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), and tyrosinase
assay used kojic acid. All inhibition percentages were calculated fol-
lowing the equations describe previously (Bravo et al., 2016). The an-
tioxidant and skin-protecting properties of Latin America plant extracts
were compared with a green tea extract (Camellia sinensis L. O. Kuntze),
an Asiatic plant widely used in antioxidant and anti-aging cosmetic
products.
2.4.5. Measurement of spectrophotometric SPF
The spectrophotometric sun protection factor (SPFspectrophotometric)
was determined by measured the absorbance values of ethanolic dilu-
tions of extracts at 290−320 nm, at 5 nm interval in a spectro-
photometer. SPF was calculated following the equation describe by
Mansur et al. (Mansur et al., 1986):
320
SPFspectrophotometric = CF × ∑ EE (λ ) × I (λ ) × Abs (λ )
290 (1)
Where EE (λ) indicates erythemal effect spectrum; I (λ) indicates solar
intensity spectrum; Abs (λ) indicates absorbance of sunscreen product
and CF stands for correction factor (= 10). The values of EE × I are
constant (Sayre et al., 1979).
2.4.6. Evaluation of photo-protective effect
The protective effect of most active plant extracts (B. orellana, E.
oleracea, and E. stipitata) on the damage caused by UVA and UVB ra-
diation in human dermal fibroblast adults (HDFa) (Life Technologies
Inc. - USA) was evaluated. The effect on cell viability, reactive oxygen
species (ROS), matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1), and pro-collagen
production after exposure of the cells to UV radiation were measure-
ment.
Cell culture and irradiation: The material for cell culture was ob-
tained from Life Technologies Inc (USA). HDFa in third to sixth
K. Bravo, et al. Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007

passages were maintained in DMEM supplemented with 10 % heat-in- Table 1

activated fetal bovine serum (FBS), 100 U/mL penicillin and 100 μg/mL Plant ingredients listed in CosIng Database by UV filter, UV absorber,
streptomycin in a humidified atmosphere of 5 % CO2 at 37 °C. Cells bleaching, skin protecting and antioxidant functions.
were cultivated in 75 mL culture flasks. To assays, the cells were put on Function Total Plant Plant Ingredients obtain by
culture plates and treated with extracts. The UVA and UVB irradiation ingredients ingredients species biotechnology
were performed using an UV Irradiation System for Cultures (Vilber process
Lourmat, France).
UV Filter 62 6 4 0
Effect on cell viability: Cell viability was measured by Cell Counting UV Absorber 157 14 12 0
Kit-8 (Dojindo Molecular Technologies, Inc., USA) assay. These use a Bleaching 266 81 79 4
highly water-soluble tetrazolium salt WST-8 (2-(2-methoxy-4ni- Skin protection 1993 853 639 253
Antioxidant 2146 1002 658 265
trophenyl)-3-(4-nitrophenyl)-5-(2,4-disulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium)
which is reduced to a water-soluble formazan dye by mitochondrial
dehydrogenases in viable cells whose production is measured spectro-
ingredients derived from plant species was counted as well as the
photometrically. For the assay, 104 HDFa were plated in 96-well plates
number of plant species from which these ingredients were obtained.
in 200 μL of supplemented medium overnight. Then, the medium was
Additionally, the number of ingredients derived from biotechnological
removed, and the cells were treated with extracts (62.5, 125 and 250
processes to obtain plant calluses or meristems was determined, and the
μg/mL) dissolved in 100 μL of FBS-free medium and incubated by 2 h.
results are described in Table 1. The antioxidant and skin-protecting
Then, the cells were irradiated with 5 J/cm2 UVA or 200 mJ/cm2 UVB
functions were present in the highest number of ingredients, while UV-
doses and they were incubated again during 24 h. After treatment, the
filtering was the lowest-occurring function in the CosIng database.
cells were washed with PBS and 100 μL of FBS-free medium and 10 μL
More than 42 % of antioxidant and skin-protecting ingredients, 31 % of
of WST-8 was added. The assay was performed according to the man-
bleaching ingredients, and 9 % of UV-absorbing ingredients are derived
ufacturer’s instructions. The absorbance was measured at 450 nm using
from plants. Of these ingredients, 30 % had skin-protecting properties,
a multi-mode microplate reader (BioTek Instruments, Inc., USA). The
40 % had antioxidant properties, and 5 % had bleaching properties and
viability was compared with a control no irradiated.
were obtained from the calluses or meristems of plant species. In total,
Effect on MMP-1 and procollagen production: The effect of plant
41 skin-protecting ingredients and 51 antioxidants were registered
extracts on MMP-1 and procollagen I production in HDFa after UVB
during 2018 and 2019. The highest number of biotechnological in-
exposure was measured by ELISA using the commercial kits Human
gredients from plants was registered in 2014. None of the UV-filtering
Total MMP-1 DuoSet and Human Pro-collagen I alpha 1 DuoSet (R&D
or UV-absorbing ingredients were obtained by biotechnological pro-
Systems, Inc., USA) and followed the procedures and conditions pre-
cesses. Six UV-filtering ingredients were obtained from four plant spe-
viously describe (Bravo et al., 2017). The cells were treated with ex-
cies. These were obtained from African native Elaeis guineensis Jacq.
tracts (31.25 and 62.5 μg/mL) dissolved in 120 μL of FBS-free medium
(oil, branches, fruits, leaves, and sap), Commiphora gileadensis L. C.Chr.
and incubated by 2 h. Then, the cells were irradiated with 100 mJ/cm2
(oil), Greyia flanaganii Bolus (leaves), and Asian native Buddleja offici-
UVB dose and they were incubated again. Seventy two hours after ir-
nalis Maxim. (flowers).
radiation for MMP-1 assay and 24 h after irradiation for pro-collagen I
assay, the supernatants were collected, and ELISA were done according
to the manufacturer’s instructions. Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) was
3.1.1. Native range of plants registered in the CosIng database
used as positive control.
Table 2 shows the continental origin of the plant species registered
Effect on intracellular ROS production: The effect of the plant ex-
in CosIng that possessed the functions of interest. The majority of in-
tracts on ROS production in HDFa induced by UVA and UVB was
gredients are native to Asia, mainly East Asia and followed by South
measured using 2´,7´-dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFDA; Molecular
Asia. Latin America (South and Central America) is the region with the
Probes Inc., USA) and followed procedures and conditions reported in
second largest number of native plants in CosIng, followed by Euro-Asia
previous studies (Bravo et al., 2017). Cells were treated with 62.5, 125
and Europa with a large number of plants with bleaching properties;
and 250 μg/mL extracts during 1 h in PBS. DCFDA was added (25 μM)
Africa, North America, and Euro-Asia are the origins for the most plant
and cells were incubated for 45 min at 37 °C in a CO2 incubator. The
species with skin-protecting and antioxidant properties. The Latin
cells were irradiated at a dose of 5 J/cm2 UVA or 200 mJ/cm2 UVB and
were then incubated for 15 min. The fluorescence was read at excitation
Table 2
and emission wavelengths of 485 and 520 nm. Quercetin was used as Continental native range of plant ingredients listed in CosIng Database by UV
positive control. filter, UV absorber, bleaching, skin protecting and antioxidant functions by
percentage.
2.4.7. Statistical analysis
Native UV Filter UV Absorber Bleaching Skin Antioxidant
The results were expressed as the mean ± SD. All statistical analyses continent Protecting
were performed using GraphPad Prism 5 (GraphPad Software Inc., San
Diego, CA, USA). Analysis of variance and Tukey’s multiple comparison Africa 75.0 % 8.3 % 1.4 % 5.6 % 5.2 %
test were performed to evaluate significant (P < 0.05) differences be- Asia 25.0 % 41.7 % 52.1 % 39.7 % 44.7 %
Europe – 16.7 % 4.1 % 8.9 % 7.6 %
tween samples and controls.
South America – – 8.2 % 9.7 % 8.4 %
Central – – – 2.3 % 1.2 %
3. Results America
North America – 16.7 % 4.1 % 5.2 % 4.1 %
Oceania – – 5.5 % 4.4 % 5.2 %
3.1. CosIng database analysis
Asia – Europe – – 6.8 % 5.2 % 7.1 %
Asia - Oceania – – 2.7 % 1.6 % 1.8 %
The UV-filtering, UV-absorbing, bleaching, skin-protecting, and Africa – Asia – – – 4.1 % 3.6 % 3.5 %
antioxidant cosmetic functions were selected for analysis since our in- Europe
itial objective was focused on investigating the cosmetic activity of Latin America - – – – 1.1 % 1.1 %
Others
plants in preventing the effects of skin photoaging. Plant mixtures or
Others – 16.7 % 1.1 % 12.7 % 10.2 %
mixtures of plants with other sources such as aquatic plants (algae) and (multiple)
microorganisms were not analyzed. For each function, the number of

4
K. Bravo, et al. Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007

American plant species are only one-sixth, one-fourth, and one-fifth of adventive refers to a plant that grows occasionally and inconsistently;
the number of plants contributed by Asia to bleaching, skin-protecting, naturalized plants are defined as plants that grow and develop in a
and antioxidant properties, respectively. country but are of foreign origin; and native refers to a plant that be-
longs to a particular region or ecosystem. No plants register in CosIng as
3.1.2. Taxonomic families of plants registered in the CosIng database UV-filtering, and UV-absorbing are native to Latin America. However,
The main taxonomic families of plants containing bleaching in- the UV-filtering E. guineensis and the UV-absorbing Calophyllum in-
gredients are the Asteraceae, Orchidaceae, Moraceae, and Rosaceae ophyllum L., C. sinensis, Gossypium herbaceum L., Helianthus annuus L.,
families. The majority skin-protecting and antioxidants cosmetic in- Olea europaea L., Triticum vulgare Vill., and Vitis vinifera L. are cultivated
gredients from plant are the Fabaceae, Asteraceae, Rosaceae, in Colombia. Thirty three percent of plants registered as containing
Lamiaceae, and Rutaceae families. The plants native to Africa are bleaching ingredients are present in Colombia, but only 17 % of them
mainly within the Apocynaceae, Fabaceae, Malvaceae, and Sapotaceae are native. Approximately 28 % of plants listed as having skin-pro-
families. The Asian native plants are mainly from the Fabaceae, tecting and antioxidant properties are distributed in Colombia, but only
Rosaceae, Orchidaceae, Asteraceae, and Rutaceae families. European 30 % and 22 % of those plants registering as skin-protecting and anti-
plants with antioxidant and skin protecting ingredients in CosIng are oxidant, respectively, are native. Tables 4 presents a list of plants the
from families Asteraceae, Lamiaceae, Pinaceae, and Rosaceae. In North occur in Colombia, native from Colombia and nearby countries and the
America, plant species from the Asparagaceae, Asteraceae, existence of crops or wild-harvest records and the availability of com-
Cupressaceae, Ericaceae, and Magnoliaceae families largely contribute mercial cosmetic ingredients from them. In Colombia, there are 71
to antioxidant and skin-protecting ingredients. In Central America, native plant species registered in CosIng for the analyzed functions.
plant species in the Asteraceae, Cactaceae, and Lamiaceae families have Forty two percent of them are wild-harvested or cultivated to procure
skin-protecting ingredients, and plants in the Asteraceae family contain the supply of raw material for obtaining ingredients. There are com-
the most antioxidant ingredients. In South America, native plants mercial cosmetic ingredients from 58 % of native plants. Twenty nine
containing skin-protecting ingredients are from Fabaceae (14.5 %), plant species do not have cosmetic ingredients on the market, and 6 of
Passifloraceae (6.5 %), Piperaceae (4.8 %), Solanaceae (4.8 %), and them are cultivated in Colombia, becoming potential sources for the
Asteraceae (4.8 %) families. For antioxidant-containing plants, 7.3 % of development of ingredients. Some plants not available in Colombia as
South America native plants are from the Asteraceae family, followed raw material are commercialized in other Latin American countries
by the Myrtaceae, Nyctaginaceae, and Piperaceae families, with 5.5 % such as Peru, Ecuador, and Brazil.
of native plants each. Plant species native to other Latin American countries are listed in
Table 5. Their availability as raw materials was consulted in suppliers’
3.1.3. Commercial availability of ingredients from registered plants in the portals, and the existence of commercial cosmetic ingredients made
CosIng database from them is reported. Forty six plant species are native to other Latin
According to the sources consulted, there are cosmetic ingredients American countries and not Colombia. Forty percent of them are of-
from 75 % of plant species on the market with UV-filtering and UV- fered by suppliers as raw materials, and in the cosmetic market, there
absorbing functions. Cosmetic ingredient suppliers have developed in- are ingredients from 40 % of them. Twenty one of these plant species
gredients from 56 % of plant species with bleaching functionality, 51 % are distributed in Colombia and are registered cultures or are wild
of plant species with skin-protecting functionality and 46 % of plant plants, including C. pepo, Ipomoea batatas L. Lam., O. ficus-indica, Pha-
species register with antioxidant properties. Sixty percent of the in- seolus vulgaris L., Psidium cattleianum Sabine, S. lycopersicum, B. glabra,
gredients registered as bleaching are obtained from plant species native and Bougainville spectabilis Willd. The last two plants have no registered
to Asia, and only 7 % are from Latin American plants. Approximately 40 cosmetic ingredients from them. On the other hand, E. stipitata, Euterpe
% of the cosmetic ingredients obtained from plants and marketed as precatoria Mart., Mauritia flexuosa L. f., and Oenocarpus bataua Mart. are
antioxidants and skin protectors come from Asian plants. Only 13 % of other Amazonian plants registered in CosIng that are native to Co-
the skin protecting and 10 % of antioxidant cosmetic ingredients are lombia; they are offered as raw material by communities, local farmers
obtain from native to Latin American plants. or marketers and have uses such as skin conditioners, emollients, hu-
mectants, and others. They could also be potential for the development
of cosmetic ingredients.
3.1.4. Plants originating from Colombia
Table 3 presents the origin of plant species analyzed for specific
3.2. Experimental analysis of Latin American plant species for cosmetic use
cosmetic functions that are distributed in Colombia according to the
Catalog of Plants and Lichens of the National University of Colombia
3.2.1. Screening of spectrophotometric SPF, skin protecting and antioxidant
(Bernal et al., 2015) and POWO (RBG Kew, 2015). In this context,
properties
Twenty eight extracts from 20 wild-harvested or cultivated plant
Table 3
species distributed in Colombia were analyzed for their spectro-
Origin of plants distributed in Colombia and listed in CosIng Database as cos-
metic ingredients by UV filter UV absorber bleaching skin protecting and an-
photometric SPF, antioxidant, and skin-protecting properties. The ex-
tioxidant functions. tract concentrations evaluated are expressed as μg total solid (ST) per
mL to normalize the plant content because the pulps were obtained
Origin UV Filter UV Absorber Bleaching Skin Antioxidant
with different water proportions. The results are shown in Table 6. The
Protecting
extract properties were compared with those of the C. sinensis extract,
Total plants 4 12 73 639 658 as this plant is widely used in cosmetic products to protect the skin from
spices aging and the adverse effects of UV radiation on skin (Mukherjee et al.,
Colombia 1 7 24 181 176
2015).
distributed
Adventive 0 0 1 11 8 B. orellana, T. cacao, and E. stipitata extracts showed the highest
Cultivated 1 7 18 100 109 ECM protective activity by their capacity to inhibit the collagenase,
Native 0 0 4 54 38 elastase, and hyaluronidase enzymes, which are responsible for ECM
Naturalized 0 0 1 12 15 component degradation. The extracts showed activities that were
Naturalized 0 0 0 4 5
greater than those of the reference plant, C. sinensis. The extract of A.
and
adventitia cherimola pulp presented a high capacity to inhibit collagenase and
hyaluronidase enzymes, while E. oleracea inhibited the collagenase and

5
K. Bravo, et al. Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007

Table 4
Plant listed in CosIng Database as cosmetic ingredients by bleaching, skin protecting and antioxidant functions native to Colombia and neighbor countries.
Plant Common name Family Plant Common name Family

Cultivated plants or abundant in the wild with cosmetic ingredients from them in the market
Ananas sativusSP Pineapples Bromeliaceae Lippia origanoidesAO Wild oregano Verbenaceae
Annona cherimolaAO Cherimoya Annonaceae Malpighia punicifoliaSP,AO Acerola Malpighiaceae
Annona squamosaSP Sugar apple Annonaceae Manihot utilissimaSP Cassava Euphorbiaceae
Bixa orellanaSP,AO Achiote, annatto Bixaceae Myrciaria dubiaAO Camu camu Myrtaceae
Caesalpinia spinosaSP Divi divi Fabaceae Passiflora edulisB Purple passion fruit Passifloraceae
Capsicum annuumSP,AO Sweet pepper Solanaceae Platonia insignisSP Bacuri Clusiaceae
Cocos nuciferaSP,AO Coconut Arecaceae Plukenetia volubilisSP Sacha inchi Euphorbiaceae
Cyclanthera pedataAO Caigua Cucurbitaceae Solanum tuberosumSP Potatoes Solanaceae
Euterpe oleraceaSP,AO Açaí Arecaceae Theobroma cacaoSP,AO,B Cacao Malvaceae
Hylocereus undatusSP Pitahaya Cactaceae Theobroma grandiflorumSP,AO Cupuassu Malvaceae
Hymenaea courbarilSP Stinkingtoe, jatoba Fabaceae Vanilla planifoliaSP,AO Vanilla Orchidaceae
Lippia albaAO Bushy lippia Verbenaceae Zea maysSP,AO Maize Poaceae

Cultivated plants or abundant in the wild without cosmetic ingredients from them in the market
Annona muricataAO Soursop Annonaceae Campomanesia lineatifoliaAO Perfume guava Myrtaceae
Allamanda catharticaB Golden trumpet Apocynaceae Passiflora quadrangularisSP Giant passiflora Passifloraceae
Bursera simarubaAO Gumbo limbo Burseraceae Pouteria sapotaSP,AO Mamey sapote Sapotaceae

No cultivated plant or raw material no commercially available with cosmetic ingredients from them in the market
Casearia sylvestrisSP Guaçatonga Flacourtiaceae Phragmites communisSP,AO Common red Poaceae
Chlorophora tinctoriaAO Moral, Dinde tree Moraceae Phyllanthus niruriSP Gale of the wind Phyllanthaceae
Coccoloba uviferaSP Seagrape Polygonaceae Physalis angulataSP Camapu, mullaca Solanaceae
Cyperus esculentusSP Yellow nutsedge, chufa Cyperaceae Phytolacca bogotensisSP Guaba Phytolaccaceae
Dipteryx odorataSP Tonca beans Fabaceae Simarouba amaraSP Simarouba Simaroubaceae
Eperua falcataSP Eperua Fabaceae Solanum mammosumAO Nipplefruit Solanaceae
Ilex guayusaSP Guayusa Aquifoliaceae Tillandsia usneoidesSP,AO Spanish moss Bromeliaceae
Maytenus macrocarpaAO Chuchuhuasi Celastraceae Uncaria tomentosaSP,AO Cat's claw Rubiaceae
Mimosa tenuifloraSP Jurema, tepescohuite Fabaceae Ximenia americanaSP Hog plum Ximeniaceae
Oenothera roseaSP,AO Rosy evening-primrose Onagraceae

No cultivated plant or raw material no commercially available without cosmetic ingredients from them in the market
Acacia farneseanaSP Sweet acacia Fabaceae Passiflora coccineaSP,AO Red passion flower Passifloraceae
Baccharis genistelloidesSP Carqueja, chilco Asteraceae Passiflora garckeiSP Passifloraceae
Botrychium schaffneriAO Ophioglossaceae Piper angustifoliumSP,AO Matico Piperaceae
Cassytha filiformis ,
SP AO
Cassytha Lauraceae Piper marginatumSP Cake bush Piperaceae
Guazuma ulmifoliaSP Bay cedar, guacimo Malvaceae Plumbago zeylanicaAO Ceylon leadwort Plumbaginaceae
AO
Ipamoea nil Japanese morning glory Convolvulaceae Polypodium decumanumSP Polypodiaceae
Jacaranda caucanaSP,AO Gualanday Bignonaceae Pothomorphe umbellataSP,AO Pariparoba Piperaceae
Lecythis minorSP Monkey-pot tree Lecythidaceae Rhizophora mangleAO Red mangrove Rhizophoraceae
Mimosa pudicaSP Shameplant Fabaceae Schkuhria pinnataSP,AO Canclalagua Asteraceae
Ophioglossum vulgatumSP,AO Southern adderstongue Ophioglossaceae Selenicereus monacanthusSP,AO,B Red pitahaya Cactaceae
Oxalis hedysaroidesSP,AO Fire fern Zinnia elegansSP,AO Common zinnia Asteraceae

SC: Skin conditioning.

B: Bleaching.
SP
: Skin protecting.
AO
: Antioxidant.

elastase enzymes. M. dubia, S. lycopersicum, and T. grandiflorum also
showed 100 % inhibition of the collagenase enzyme under the eval-
uated conditions. However, E. stipitata, A. cherimola, E. oleracea, and M.
dubia are not registered in CosIng with skin-protecting functions. B.
orellana and E. stipitata extracts inhibit more than 90 % of tyrosinase
activity. Their activities were higher than those of T. cacao and C. si-
nensis, which are listed in CosIng has having bleaching functionality. M.
dubia extract was also noted to inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme although
its action was less than that of the described extracts.
B. orellana and E. oleracea extracts showed the highest antioxidant
capacities and phenol contents. Even, the ORAC value of E. oleracea was
higher than that of C. sinensis, one of the most potent antioxidant plants.
B. glabra leaves, A. squamosa peel, A. cherimola pulp, T. grandiflorum
fruit, O. ficus-indica, and P. quadrangularis extracts stood out by their
high antioxidant activity as measured by the ORAC assay. On the other
hand, E. oleracea and B. orellana extracts presented the highest SPF
values, exceeding those of the reference plant species, C. sinensis. Sun
protection factor values were followed by those seen for B. glabra leaves
and T. grandiflorum fruit extracts.
3.2.2. Photoprotective effects on HDFa
B. orellana, E. oleracea, and E. stipitata extracts, which were noted
because of their inhibition of ECM component-breaking enzymes, an-
tioxidant properties, and spectrophotometric SPF, were tested for their
photoprotective capacity on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa) by
measuring their effects on death cell prevention and MMP-1, pro-col-
lagen, and ROS production after UVA and UVB cell exposure. The re-
sults are shown in Fig. 1. Ultraviolet radiation exposure significantly
affected HDFa viability. A 5 J/cm2 dose of UVA radiation decreased
fibroblast viability by 58 %, while a 200 mJ/cm2 UVB dose reduced
fibroblast viability by 30 %. E. oleracea and E. stipitata extracts miti-
gated HDF death by 30 % and 40 %, respectively, after UVA exposure at
0.062 % (v/v). E. oleracea reduced fibroblast death after UVB radiation
by 19 % at 0.062 % (v/v), and E. stipitata reduced fibroblast death by 24
% at 0.25 % (v/v). B. orellana extract did not reduce cell death. In
contrast, it increases cell death after UVA radiation.
Ultraviolet B radiation significantly increased MMP-1 production in
HDFa, increasing 10-fold after UVB exposure. B. orellana, E. oleracea,
and E. stipitata reduced MMP-1 production by 63 %, 58 %, and 45 %,
respectively, at 0.125 % (v/v). Ultraviolet B radiation reduced pro-
collagen Iα1 production by 37 % in HDFa. The B. orellana, E. oleracea,

6
K. Bravo, et al. Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007

Table 5
Plant listed in CosIng Database as cosmetic ingredients by UV filter, UV absorber, bleaching, skin protecting and antioxidant functions, native to other Latin American
countries not Colombia.
Plant Common name Family Plant Common name Family

Cultivated plants or abundant in the wild with cosmetic ingredients from them in the market
Cucurbita pepoSP Field pumpkin Cucurbitaceae Polianthes tuberosaSP,AO Tuberose Asparagaceae
Ipomoea batatasAO Sweet popate Convolvulaceae Polypodium leucotomosSP Calaguala Polypodiaceae
Larrea divaricataAO Chaparral, jarrilla Zygophyllaceae Psidium cattleyanumAO Strawberry guava Myrtaceae
Lepidium meyeniiAO Maca Brasicaceae Shinus molleSP Pink peppercorns Anacardiaceae
Opuntia ficus-indicaSP,AO Barbary fig Cactacea Solanum lycopersicumSP,AO Tomato Solanaceae
Phaseolus vulgarisSP,AO Common bean Fabaceae

Cultivated plants or abundant in the wild without cosmetic ingredients from them in the market
Agastache mexicanaSP Mexican giant hyssop Lamiaceae Chenopodium pallidicauleSP Cañihua Amaranthaceae
Arachis hypogaeaSP Peanut Fabaceae Dracontium longipesSP Jergon sacha Araceae
Bougainvillea glabraSP,AO Paperflower Nyctaginaceae Jacaranda mimosifoliaAO Blue jacaranda Bignonaceae
Bougainvillea spectabilisSP,AO Paperflower Nyctaginaceae

No cultivated plant or raw material no commercially available with cosmetic ingredients from them in the market
Acmella oleraceaeSP Paracress Asteraceae Astrocaryum tucumaSP Tucuma Arecaceae
Aletris farinosaAO True unicorn Melanthiaceae Cereus grandiflorusSP,AO Large-flowered cactus Cactacea
Amaranthus cruentusSP Red amaranthus Amaranthaceae Plumeria obtusaSP,AO Pagoda tree Apocynaceae
AO
Aristotelia chilensis Maqui berry Elaeocarpaceae Tagetes erectaAO Mexican marigold Asteraceae

No cultivated plant or raw material no commercially available without cosmetic ingredients from them in the market
Acalypha reptansAO Red hot cats tails Euphorbiaceae Eremanthus erythropappusAO Candeia verdadeira Asteraceae
Ageratum houstonianumSP Bluemink Asteraceae Erythroxylum catuabaSP Catuaba Erythroxylaceae
Annona atemoyaSP Atemoya Annonaceae Euphorbia pulcherrimaAO Poinsettia Euphorbiaceae
Bocoa prouacensisSP Boko Fabaceae Fevillea trilobataSP Javillo Cucurbitaceae
Carpotroche brasiliensisSP Pau de Lepra Achariaceae Ipomoea hederaceaSP Ivy-leaved morning-glory Convolvulaceae
Caryocar coriaceumSP Pequi Caryocaraceae Lepechinia caulescensSP Bretonica Lamiaceae
Cosmos bipinnatusAO Garden cosmos Asteraceae Mirabilis jalapaSP,AO Marvel of Peru Nyctaginaceae
Cycnoches cooperiAO Cooper's Cycnoches Orchidaceae Oxalis triagunlarisSP False shamrock Oxalidaceae
Deschampsia antarcticaAO Antarctic hair grass Poaceae Passiflora alataSP Winged-stem passion flower Passifloraceae
Dipteryz alataAO Baru Fabaceae Schinopsis quebrachoAO Willow-leaf red Anacardiaceae

SC: Skin conditioning.

B: Bleaching.
SP
: Skin protecting.
AO
: Antioxidant.

and E. stipitata extracts increased pro-collagen production by 23 %, 52
%, and 107 %, respectively, after UVB radiation at 0.125 % (v/v). The
results are presented in Fig. 2. In addition, Fig. 3 shows that UV ra-
diation significantly affected ROS production in HDF and the effects of
the evaluated extracts. Ultraviolet A increased ROS production by 24-
fold, while UVB increased ROS production by 15-fold. B. orellana and E.
oleracea reduced the ROS by 42 % and 19 %, respectively, after UVA
exposure at 0.250 % (v/v). Only the B. orellana extract reduced ROS
production, by 14 % and 36 % at 0.125 % and 0,250 % (v/v), respec-
tively, after UVB radiation. E. stipitata did not reduce ROS production in
HDF after UV radiation under the evaluated conditions.
4. Discussion
The rise in the consumer consciousness of personal care and beauty
products has increased the demand for natural, organic, and sustainable
ingredients and formulations leading to increased development of
“good” products for consumers, for their minds and for the planet. In
this sense, the biodiversity of plants has become a rich and strategic
source for the development of new active cosmetic industries, leading
to an opportunity for economic growth and the improvement of the
standard of living of rural communities in biodiverse regions. Different
strategies have been implemented for the use of biodiversity, and one of
these strategies is related to ethnopharmacological studies. Several
studies have been performed to determine the plants used in cosmetic
folklore, mainly in Africa. E. guineensis, Carica papaya L., Aloe vera L.
Burm. F., Citrus limon L. Osbeck, and Lawsonia inermis L. are frequently
used for cosmetic purposes on this continent (Fongnzossie et al., 2018;
Mahomoodally and Ramjuttun, 2016; Ndhlovu et al., 2019; Sagbo and
Mbeng, 2018). In Latin America, reports about ethnobotany studies of
plants for cosmetic purposes are limited (Cáceres and Cruz, 2015;
Teixeira et al., 2016). However, there are many reports about studies
investigating traditional medicinal and antioxidant plants. In Brazilian
communities, the use of Ricinus communis L. (Ribeiro et al., 2017), Al-
ternanthera brasiliana L. Kuntze, and A. vera (Bieski et al., 2015) for skin
diseases and Sphagneticola trilobata L. Pruski, Malva parviflora L., and
Struthanthus flexicaulis Mart. for their antioxidant activity have been
reported (Teixeira et al., 2016). In Colombia, Tabebuia rosea Bertol. has
been reported to help with skin ailments (Gómez-Estrada et al., 2011),
and Tibouchina kingie Wurdack, Pseudelephantopus spiralis Less. Croquist,
Mimosa albida Humb. & Bonpl. ex Willd. (Jiménez et al., 2015), Piper
putumayoense Trel. & Yunck., Piper glandulosissimum Yunck., Piper kru-
koffii Yunck., Senna reticulata Willd. H. S. Irwin & Barneby, and Brownea
rosa de monte P. J. Bergi. (Lizcano et al., 2010) are known to be potent
antioxidants. In Peru, antioxidant properties have been highlighted in
Alnus acuminata Kunth., Clinopodium bolivianum Epling Harley & A.
Granda., Lepechinia meyenii Walp. Epling, Mutisia acuminata Ruiz &
Pav., Sambucus peruviana Kunth Bolli. (Chirinos et al., 2013), Mauritia
flexuosa L. f., Oenocarpus bataua Mart., and Inga edulis Mart. (Tauchen
et al., 2016). In Ecuador, Croton lechleri Müll. Arg. and Ilex guayusa Loes
are used to treat skin diseases (Ballesteros et al., 2016; Giovannini,
2015). In Mexico, Tithonia diversifolia Hemsl. A. Gray., A. vera, Buddleja
Americana L., and Tagetes lucida Cav. are used as treatments for der-
matological conditions (Geck et al., 2016; Juárez-Vázquez et al., 2013).
The use of ethnobotanical studies for the scientific validation of
traditional knowledge is a good strategy to discover new potential in
plant species. However, many of the plants found in ethnobotany stu-
dies are well-known plants that have been previously described for their
properties and bioactive components. On the other hand, plants ana-
lyzed from extreme ecosystems, such as Páramos, may have powerful

7
 K. Bravo, et al.

Table 6
Evaluation of cosmetic functions of extracts from wild harvest or cultivate Latin American plants distributed in Colombia and listed in CosIng Database.
Plant spice Part of plant Total solids Anti-collagenasea (% Anti-elastasea(% Anti-hyaluroni- daseb Anti-tyrosinasea (% TPC (mg ORAC (μmol FRAP (μmol Spectrophotometric SPFc
used (%) inhibition) inhibition) (% inhibition) inhibition) EAG/gST) ET/gST) ET/gST)

AO SC
Annona cherimola , Pulp 21.7 100.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 62.5 ± 2.8 20.1 ± 0.6 15.4 ± 0.6 334.8 ± 26.4 58.9 ± 2.8 0.5 ± 0.0
Seeds 97.1 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 8.8 ± 3.5 2.4 ± 0.0 52.7 ± 3.5 7.1 ± 1.5 0.2 ± 0.0
SP SC
Annona squamosa , Pulp 13.8 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 3.1 ± 0.8 0.0 ± 0.0 2.8 ± 0.2 106.4 ± 2.6 9.4 ± 0.4 0.5 ± 0.0
Seeds 97.3 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 4.0 ± 2.4 1.5 ± 0.0 28.1 ± 0.9 2.8 ± 0.2 0.1 ± 0.0
Peel 8.0 47.2 ± 2.4 12.4 ± 3.9 9.3 ± 4.0 17.9 ± 0.2 17.0 ± 0.1 458.2 ± 42.2 71.3 ± 3.2 1.6 ± 2.3
SP AO
Bixa Orellana , Leaves 91.4 95.4 ± 0.1 82.6 ± 1.9 70.4 ± 2.0 92.1 ± 2.6 102.4 ± 4.6 2181.7 ± 440.7 ± 13.5 8.0 ± 0.3
174.5
SP AO
Bougainvillea glabra , Leaves 90.7 13.7 ± 12.5 3.8 ± 1.9 1.2 ± 1.2 38.1 ± 1.6 27.9 ± 0.5 598.6 ± 22.7 57.7 ± 6.0 4.6 ± 0.3
Flowers 92.3 7.5 ± 8.0 4.2 ± 2.7 1.5 ± 0.0 32.8 ± 0.9 8.8 ± 0.1 278.3 ± 26.4 35.9 ± 3.6 2.0 ± 0.0
Capsicum annuum sweet SP, AO Fruits 8.0 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 16.6 ± 4.2 2.4 ± 0.1 77.0 ± 2.2 1.2 ± 0.1 0.2 ± 0.0
Capsicum annuum pungent SP, Fruits 10.0 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 12.6 ± 2.6 3.3 ± 0.2 94.8 ± 3.0 17.1 ± 1.4 0.2 ± 0.0
AO

Cucurbita pepo SP Seeds 96.4 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 6.8 ± 0.4 6.3 ± 3.2 0.8 ± 0.0 41.5 ± 5.3 1.0 ± 0.1 0.1 ± 0.0
AO
Cyclanthera pedata Fruits 4.3 0.0 ± 0.0 10.0 ± 5.4 8.5 ± 0.1 1.5 ± 2.2 4.6 ± 0.2 117.5 ± 7.2 12.2 ± 0.3 1.3 ± 0.1
Eugenia stipitata SC Pulp 9.6 100.0 ± 0.0 94.6 ± 0.4 72.1 ± 1.2 91.7 ± 1.4 30.16 ± 0.7 195.7 ± 4.2 165.4 ± 64.5 1.5 ± 0.1
Seeds 93.4 99.1 ± 0.3 89.6 ± 0.9 69.5 ± 1.7 67.1 ± 1.1 16.6 ± 0.8 105.6 ± 12.3 78.8 ± 49.8 1.7 ± 0.1
AO SC
Euterpe oleracea , Fruits 6.4 100.0 ± 0.0 72.5 ± 2.6 42.6 ± 0.0 13.7 ± 4.2 65.4 ± 0.2 2870.3 ± 304.0 ± 34.3 9.6 ± 0.0
182.4
AO
Lippia alba Leaves stems 100.0 29.6 ± 3.2 14.5 ± 2.8 0.0 ± 0.0 20.6 ± 1.9 0.1 ± 0.0 17.7 ± 0.3 0.6 ± 0.1 0.0 ± 0.0

8
Myrciaria dubia AO Fruits 12.,2 100.0 ± 0.0 14.1 ± 0.9 16.4 ± 0.4 74.4 ± 10.2 19.1 ± 2.8 160.4 ± 39.4 244.5 ± 15.7 0.8 ± 0.0
Opuntia ficus-indica SP, AO, SC Fruits 9.7 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 2.7 ± 0.8 13.5 ± 3.3 11.8 ± 0.2 323.8 ± 11.2 16.1 ± 1.3 0.7 ± 0.0
Passiflora quadrangularis SP Fruits 6.7 86.4 ± 1.8 3.7 ± 3.2 28.8 ± 2.8 4.1 ± 0.6 8.0 ± 0.2 313.0 ± 10.2 25.3 ± 1.0 0.4 ± 0.0
Plukenetia volubilis SP Oil seeds 100.4 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 0.9 ± 3.3 4.5 ± 2.7 0.3 ± 0.0 9.9 ± 0.4 3.6 ± 0.2 0.0 ± 0.0
Pouteria sapota SP, AO Pulp 14.7 87.0 ± 3.2 36.9 ± 1.0 21.7 ± 2.1 0.2 ± 1.4 2.6 ± 0.1 66.3 ± 3.4 10.0 ± 1.0 0.2 ± 0.0
Solanum lycopersicum SP, AO, SC Fruits 5.6 100.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 12.7 ± 2.0 0.8 ± 0.0 25.2 ± 11.1 3.7 ± 0.1 0.1 ± 0.0
Solanum tuberosum SP Fruits 20.4 2.2 ± 18.8 21.2 ± 1.8 0.0 ± 0.0 3.3 ± 2.6 0.3 ± 0.0 10.6 ± 0.7 1.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0
Theobroma cacao SP, AO, B, SC Pulp 9.6 100.0 ± 0.0 92.6 ± 0.5 77.9 ± 0.4 73.9 ± 0.7 7.8 ± 0.5 126.0 ± 2.8 62.5 ± 0.3 0.6 ± 0.0
Seeds 24.4 100.0 ± 0.0 44.1 ± 1.4 39.5 ± 1.1 21.5 ± 7.4 4.0 ± 0.8 110.7 ± 10.9 29.5 ± 0.4 0.1 ± 0.0
SP AO
Theobroma grandiflorum , Pulp 10.1 99.3 ± 0.7 18.1 ± 4.5 1.4 ± 0.0 9.6 ± 4.7 7.4 ± 0.1 123.2 ± 3.1 15.9 ± 0.8 0.3 ± 0.1
Fruits 14.1 100.0 ± 0.0 35.3 ± 4.5 3.5 ± 0.4 0.0 ± 0.0 11.8 ± 0.3 335.6 ± 16.9 46.2 ± 9.8 2.0 ± 2.0
Zea mays SP, AO Seeds 26.1 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0 6.6 ± 8.2 0.4 ± 0.0 15.0 ± 1.3 2.1 ± 0.0 0.0 ± 0.0
SP AO B SC
Camellia sinensis , , , Leaves 93.7 87.9 ± 0.7 60.8 ± 0.4 54.0 ± 1.2 83.2 ± 0.4 273.7 ± 3.3 2194.7 ± 903.4 ± 46.7 5.9 ± 0.3
257.7

Data are the mean of three independent experiments, except to spectrophotometric SPF assay, where was made two independent experiments.
SC: Skin conditioning.
B: Bleaching.
a
Extracts evaluated at a fixed concentration of 320 mg total solids/L.
b
Extracts evaluated at a fixed concentration of 160 mg total solids/L.
c
Extracts evaluated at a fixed concentration of 500 mg total solids/L.
SP
: Skin protecting.
AO
: Antioxidant.
Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007
K. Bravo, et al. Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007

Fig. 1. Photoprotective effect of most active extracts from wild harvest or cultivate Latin American plants distributed in Colombia listed in Cosing on cell
viability of HDFa. Cells were treated for 2 h with extracts and them they were irradiated with UVA (A.) and UVB (B). 24 h after irradiation the cell viability was
measured by WST-8 assay. All date shown the mean ± S.D. of three independent experiments. *P < 0.05, compared with the irradiated control. 25 μM (0.0006 %v/v)
Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) was used as positive control.

properties, but they have few possibilities for commercial exploitation
due to their restricted occurrence; moreover, they may not be of interest
to the industry because their safety is not proven. In the specific case of
the cosmetic industry, because they are not included in international
lists of cosmetic ingredients, their inclusion and safety evaluation by
allowed methods and models is very expensive.
This study presents and analyzes registered plants that can be
commercially exploited as a source of cosmetic ingredients through an
analysis of CosIng, the most frequented and largest free cosmetic in-
gredients database. Ingredients listed as having UV-filtering, UV-ab-
sorbing, bleaching, skin-protecting, and antioxidant functions were
analyzed. A UV filter is defined as an ingredient that filters certain UV
rays and protects the skin or hair from the harmful effects of these rays,
while a UV absorber is an ingredient that protects the cosmetic product
from the effects of UV light. Bleaching is defined as an ingredient that
lightens the shade of hair or skin. A skin-protecting ingredient helps to
avoid harmful effects on the skin from external factors, while an anti-
oxidant inhibits reactions promoted by oxygen, thus avoiding oxidation
and rancidity (European Commission, 2017). Of the ingredients listed
in the CosIng database, 8 % have antioxidant functionality, 7.4 % have
skin-protecting properties and 1 % have bleaching functionality. A high
percentage of them are derived from natural sources, such as fungi,
algae, and plants, as shown in Table 1, reaffirming that plant
biodiversity is an important source for the cosmetic industry. A growing
number of the plant ingredients analyzed are obtained by plant tissue
cultures (Table 1), which led to increasing interest from the cosmetic
industry in biotechnology processes. However, establishing these bio-
processes on an industrial scale involves high costs. Sometimes the yield
of secondary metabolites is low, and it is required to optimize the
culture conditions between the culture medium, growth regulator, and
explant (Efferth, 2019). Sometimes the genetic manipulation of plants is
required, and consumers have adverse reactions to the concept. In ad-
dition, biotechnological processes for obtaining cosmetic ingredients do
not allow for the social approach that traditional agriculture gives to
the development of communities, which is desirable by cosmetic com-
panies seeking fair trade practices or certifications. Additionally, the
application of biotechnology on a large scale can generate economic
instability in developing countries.
Twenty five percent of the plants with bleaching properties are in
the Asteraceae, Orchidaceae, Moraceae, and Rosaceae families. The
genus Artocarpus excels in the Moraceae family, containing 75 % of the
ingredients. Their skin-whitening properties have been attributed to
stilbene-type compounds such as resveratrol, found abundantly in this
genus, and other flavonoids such as dihydromorin, steppogenin, nor-
artocarpetin and artocarpanone (Mukherjee et al., 2018; Zheng et al.,
2008). The most prevalent families with skin-protecting and

9
K. Bravo, et al. Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007

Fig. 2. Effect of most active extracts from wild harvest or cultivate Latin American plants distributed in Colombia listed in Cosing on matrix metallo-
proteinase (MMP-1) and pro-collagen (B) production in UVB-irradiated HDFa. Cells were treated for 2 h with extracts and them they were irradiated with UVB.
The MMP-1 production was determined by ELISA 72 h after irradiation (A) and Procollagen Iα1 was determined by ELISA 24 h after irradiation (B). All date shown
the mean ± S.D. of three independent experiments. *P < 0.05, compared with the irradiated control. 25 μM (0.0004 %v/v) Quercetin was used as positive control.

antioxidant functionality are the Fabaceae, Asteraceae, Rosaceae, La-
miaceae, Rutaceae, Orchidaceae, and Malvaceae families. These results
are in accordance with previous reports about plants and families used
for cosmeceutical ingredient production to obtain antioxidant, anti-
wrinkling, anti-aging, anti-polluting, moisturizing, smoothing, and anti-
hyperpigmentation activities (Dorni et al., 2017). A high frequency of
the Asteraceae family is expected due to it being one of the largest and
most distributed plant families in the world. However, the more fre-
quently occurring genus in CosIng for obtaining skin-protecting and
antioxidant ingredients are Rosa from the Rosaceae family and Citrus
from the Rutaceae family. Sixteen Rosa spp. are listed in the CosIng
database for antioxidant and skin-protecting functions. Flavonoids,
phenolic acids, triterpenoids, and phytosterols are reported as active
compounds in Rosa spp., and they have demonstrated anti-in-
flammatory and antioxidative activities (Cheng et al., 2016). Fifteen
Citrus spp. are listed in the CosIng database for antioxidant and skin-
protecting functions. Citrus fruits are considered a good source of an-
tioxidants. Flavonoids such as flavanones, flavones, flavonols, and an-
thocyanins are the most abundant phenolic compounds found in Citrus
fruits (Ballistreri et al., 2018).
According to Euromonitor International, in 2018, 1.569.437 tons of
botanical ingredients were consumed globally. However, only 2 % were
ingredients for beauty and personal care products, mainly bath, shower,
and skin care products (Euromonitor International, 2019b). In addition,
the CosIng analysis with respect to availability of cosmetic ingredients
from plants in the global market showed that there are many plants
whose ingredients have not yet been developed. Approximately 50 % of
the Latin American plant species listed in CosIng under the analyzed
functions have been developed (Tables 4 and 5). Unfortunately, the
commercial exploitation of plant biodiversity can result in a negative
impact on plant sources and the destruction of natural habitats and
ecosystems if it is not exploited in a rational and sustainable way. The
main negative impacts are related to the collection of biological raw
materials. Excessive collection of wild plants can result in a great threat
to the conservation of species. For this reason, potential plants used for
obtaining cosmetic ingredients are limited to those that are cultivated
or wild-harvested from highly abundant species. In this way, the supply
of raw material can be guaranteed. Under these premises, the potential
of Latin American plants for obtaining cosmetic ingredients are de-
scribed.
Of 71 native Colombian plants, 30 species are cultivated or abun-
dant in the wild, and they are sold by suppliers in Colombia (Table 4).
Of them, Allamanda cathartica L., Annona muricate L., Bursera simaruba
L. Sarg., Campomanesia lineatifolia Ruiz & Pav., P. quadrangularis, and P.

10
K. Bravo, et al. Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007

Fig. 3. Effect of most active extracts from wild harvest or cultivate Latin American plants distributed in Colombia listed in Cosing on ROS production in
UVB-irradiated HDFa. Cells were treated for 2 h with extracts and them they were irradiated with UVA (A) and UVB (B). The ROS production was determinate using
DCFDA. All date shown the mean ± S.D. of three independent experiments. *P < 0.05, compared with the irradiated control. 25 μM Quercetin (0.0004 %v/v) was
used as positive control.

sapota are considered as having the most potential for commercial ex-
ploitation because cosmetic ingredients from them are not currently
sold, according to the consulted sources. Eighteen plant species native
to other Latin American countries, excluding Colombia, are cultivated
or abundant in the wild, and they are sold by suppliers in some Latin
American countries (Table 5). Of them, Agastache Mexicana Kunth Lint
& Epling, Arachis hypogaea L., Chenopodium pallidicaule Aellen, Dra-
contium longipes Engl., B. glabra, B. spectabilis, and Jacaranda mimosifolia
D Don are considered as having the most potential for commercial ex-
ploitation because cosmetic ingredients from them are not currently
sold, according to the consulted sources.
Properties related to cosmetic use such as antioxidant, anti-in-
flammatory, wound-healing, and anti-tyrosinase properties have been
reported in A. cathartica, A. muricata, C. lineatifolia, and B. spectabilis.
Some properties are attributed to plumieride, quercitrin, glabridin, and
vitamin E in A. cathartica (Petricevich and Abarca-Vargas, 2019); al-
kaloids, phenols, and acetogenins in A. muricata (Coria-Téllez et al.,
2018); flavonoid-type catechins and quercitrin in C. lineatifolia (Lescano
et al., 2018); and flavonoids and stilbenes in B. spectabilis (Mishra et al.,
2019). However, specific and more detailed studies are necessary to
validate their cosmetic use. There are not enough reports about B. si-
maruba and J. mimosifolia properties and active metabolites.
The skin-protecting function was validated experimentally by
evaluating the inhibition of enzymes such as collagenase, elastase, and
hyaluronidase by plant extracts. Additionally, antioxidant properties of
the plant extracts were evaluated viain vitro assays such as ORAC, FRAP,
and the phenolic content, which has been correlated with antioxidant
properties. The skin-protecting and antioxidant activities of A. cher-
imola, B. orellana, B. glabra, E. stipitata, E. oleracea, M. dubia, P. quad-
rangularis, P. sapota, S. lycopersicum, T. cacao, and T. grandiflorum were
validated experimentally via one or more assays (Table 6). The skin-
protecting or antioxidant activities were not successfully validated by
the employed assays for A. squamosa, C. annuum, C. pepo, C. pedata, L.
alba essential oil, O. ficus-indica, P. volubilis S. tuberosum, and Z. mays.
Most likely, their effects on skin is due to different mechanisms from
those evaluated, or the evaluated part of plants does not correspond to
the mechanisms described in CosIng. This is the case for C. pepo and O.
ficus-indica (Table 6). O. ficus-indica showed antioxidant action, but it
does not register in CosIng for this function.
B. orellana, E. stipitata, E. oleracea, and T. cacao extracts showed the
highest overall desired properties. The cosmetic functions of T. cacao
are highly documented, and this is a very exploited source for obtaining
cosmetic ingredients for skin and hair treatments. Its bleaching effects,
proliferative action on human fibroblasts, UV sunscreen potential,
collagenase, and elastase inhibition and skin wrinkle reduction were
reported recently (Campos-Vega et al., 2018). Photoprotective (Fig. 1),

11
K. Bravo, et al.
anti-photoaging (Fig. 2), and antioxidant (Fig. 3) properties on HDFa of
B. orellana leaves, E. stipitata pulp, and E. oleracea fruits were reported.
Although many cosmetic ingredients of B. orellana seeds are mar-
keted, their leaves have not been exploited commercially as active
cosmetic sources. Biological activities related to cosmetic use of B. or-
ellana seeds such as antioxidant, free radical-scavenging, and anti-in-
flammatory properties have been reported (Stringheta et al., 2018).
Terpene compounds such as α-carpophyllene, α-capaene, α-elemene,
and cis-ocimene, sterols such as phytol, stigmasterol, and sitosterol and
phenolic compounds such as leucocyanidin, ellagic acid, luteolin, and
apigenin have been reported in the leaves of B. orellana (Shahid-ul-
Islam et al., 2016). The skincare properties of some of these compounds
are widely reported (Mukherjee et al., 2011). Likewise, in the consulted
sources, there are no reported cosmetic ingredients from E. stipitata in
the market. This study showed a potent effect of its fruits in reducing
fibroblast death caused by UV radiation (Fig. 1), increasing pro-col-
lagen production, and reducing MMP-1 production (Fig. 2). This plant
also showed a high capacity for inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes
and high antioxidant activities. Another study reported that E. stipitata
extract has better antioxidant activity as measured by the DPPH assay
than gallic acid, myricetin, quercetin, and a kaempferol compound
(Neri-Numa et al., 2013). Terpenes, volatile compounds, fiber, vitamin
C, and phenolic content are rich in E. stipitata fruits (Neri-Numa et al.,
2013). The availability of its raw material (cultivated fruit) and its
properties make this fruit a potential and interesting source of cosmetic
ingredients.
Although many antioxidant and anti-aging cosmetic ingredients
from E. oleracea are marketed, there are no scientific papers about their
effects on specific photoaging targets. This study showed that E. oler-
acea extract prevents the death of fibroblasts (Fig. 1), increases pro-
collagen production, and reduces MMP-1 production (Fig. 2) after UV
radiation. These effects can be attributed to high phenolic compound
contents, such as cyanidin 3-glucoside, cyanidin 3-rutinoside, peonidin
3-rutinoside, peonidin 3-glucoside cyanidin 3-O-sambubioside, pe-
largonidin 3-O-glucoside anthocyanins, quercetin, orientin flavonoids,
and their derivatives, as well as proanthocyanidins (Gordon et al.,
2012). Anti-inflammatory properties have been reported for those
compounds from this plant (Da et al., 2019).
The experimental validation of the antioxidant and skin-protecting
functions of native Colombian and available plants registered in the
CosIng database allowed for the identification of other potential sources
of cosmetic ingredients to be subject to further studies and subsequent
commercial exploitation. In addition to anti-collagenase and anti-
oxidant properties, M. dubia showed similar tyrosinase inhibition to
that of T. cacao, which is registered in CosIng for use as a bleaching
ingredient. High vitamin C and phenolic contents are reported as
powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities (Castro et al.,
2018). Further studies are needed to evaluate a possible skin-whitening
effect and to promote its bleaching function. B. glabra showed notable
antioxidant activity. The capacity of this plant to inhibit tyrosinase
activity and THFα- production and increase collagen production has
been reported (Ogunwande et al., 2019). Additional studies are sug-
gested to evaluate cosmetic properties in B. glabra and B. spectabilis due
to their high resistance to abiotic stresses (Mishra et al., 2019). Five
plant species of Passiflora are listed in CosIng among the analyzed
functions. Their Latin American origin, wide occurrence in South
American countries, high flavonoid content and potent antioxidant and
anti-inflammatory properties (Bravo et al., 2017; Casierra and Jarma,
2015; Corrêa et al., 2016) make this genus an interesting and promising
source of cosmetic activity.
5. Conclusions
This study shows the great potential of Latin American plant bio-
diversity in the cosmetic industry and its low commercial exploitation
in contrast with Asiatic plant biodiversity. The CosIng database analysis
12
Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007
model applied in this study and the experimental assays conducted
made it possible to obtain a list of Latin American plant species with the
potential for relatively immediate commercial use in cosmetic in-
gredients and products because they are wild-harvested or cultivated
plants. However, additional efforts to integrate researchers, industry
and society are necessary for the development of innovative, sustain-
able, and commercial products from Latin American biodiversity.
Declaration of Competing Interest
The authors declare that they have no known competing financial
interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influ-
ence the work reported in this paper.
Acknowledgments
This work was supported by COLCIENCIAS (Project 671076459642
– Contract 101-2017). Karent Bravo is grateful to the Program of
Postdoctoral Stays for COLCIENCIAS Beneficiary for provision of a post-
doctoral fellow-ship (Project C1451000000009472 - Contract
FP144842-118-2018). The authors want to thank to David Muñoz,
Paola Cadena and Luisa Carrasquilla for their technical assistance. The
authors are especially grateful to University of Antioquia (UdeA) for the
important contribution in the development of this work.
References
Ballesteros, J.L., Bracco, F., Cerna, M., Vita Finzi, P., Vidari, G., 2016. Ethnobotanical
Research at the Kutukú Scientific Station, Morona-Santiago. Ecuador. J. Biomed Res.
Int. https://doi.org/10.1155/2016/9105746.
Ballistreri, G., Fabroni, S., Romeo, F.V., Timpanaro, N., Amenta, M., Rapisarda, P., 2018.
Anthocyanins and other polyphenols in Citrus genus: biosynthesis, chemical profile,
and biological activity. J. Polyphenols. Plants. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-
813768-0.00014-1.
Bernal, R., Galeano, G., Rodriguez, A., Sarmiento, H., Gutiérrez, M., 2017. Nombres
Comunes Plantas de Colombia. (Accessed 4 June 2019. http://www.biovirtual.unal.
edu.co/nombrescomunes/es/.
Bernal, Rodrigo, Robbert, Gradstein S., Marcela, Celis, 2015. Catálogo de Plantas y
Líquenes de Colombia - Universidad Nacional de Colombia. (Accessed 15 June 2019.
http://catalogoplantasdecolombia.unal.edu.co/es/.
Bieski, I.G.C., Leonti, M., Arnason, J.T., Ferrier, J., Rapinski, M., Violante, I.M.P., et al.,
2015. Ethnobotanical study of medicinal plants by population of Valley of Juruena
Region, Legal Amazon, Mato Grosso, Brazil. J. Ethnopharmacol. https://doi.org/10.
1016/j.jep.2015.07.025.
Bravo, K., Alzate, F., Osorio, E., 2016. Fruits of selected wild and cultivated Andean plants
as sources of potential compounds with antioxidant and anti-aging activity. Ind.
Crops Prod. 85, 341–352. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.INDCROP.2015.12.074.
Bravo, K., Duque, L., Ferreres, F., Moreno, D.A., Osorio, E., 2017. Passiflora tarminiana
fruits reduce UVB-induced photoaging in human skin fibroblasts. J. Photochem.
Photobiol. B 168, 78–88. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2017.01.023.
Burlando, B., Cornara, L., Burlando, B., Cornara, L., 2017. Revisiting amazonian plants for
skin care and disease. Cosmet 4 (3), 25. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4030025.
Cáceres, A., Cruz, S.M., 2015. Contributions of natural ingredients from the
Mesoamerican biodiversity for the phytocosmetic industry. Int. J. Phytocosmet. Nat.
Ingredients 2 (1), 2. https://doi.org/10.15171/ijpni.2015.02.
Campos-Vega, R., Nieto-Figueroa, K.H., Oomah, B.D., 2018. Cocoa (Theobroma cacao L.)
pod husk: renewable source of bioactive compounds. Trends Food Sci. Technol.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tifs.2018.09.022.
Casierra Posada, F., Jarma Orozco, A., 2015. Nutritional composition of Passiflora spe-
cies. Nutr. Compos. Fruit Cultivars. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-408117-8.
00022-2.
Castro, J.C., Maddox, J.D., Imán, S.A., 2018. Camu-camu— Myrciaria dubia (Kunth)
McVaugh. Exot. Fruits 97–105. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-803138-4.
00014-9. Elsevier.
Cheng, B.C.Y., Fu, X.Q., Guo, H., Li, T., Wu, Z.Z., Chan, K., Yu, Z.L., 2016. The genus Rosa
and arthritis: overview on pharmacological perspectives. Pharmacol. Res. https://
doi.org/10.1016/j.phrs.2016.10.029.
Chirinos, R., Pedreschi, R., Rogez, H., Larondelle, Y., Campos, D., 2013. Phenolic com-
pound contents and antioxidant activity in plants with nutritional and/or medicinal
properties from the Peruvian Andean region. Ind. Crops Prod. 47, 145–152. https://
doi.org/10.1016/J.INDCROP.2013.02.025.
Coria-Téllez, A.V., Montalvo-Gónzalez, E., Yahia, E.M., Obledo-Vázquez, E.N., 2018.
Annona muricata: a comprehensive review on its traditional medicinal uses, phyto-
chemicals, pharmacological activities, mechanisms of action and toxicity. Arabian J.
Chem. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.arabjc.2016.01.004.
Corrêa, R.C.G., Peralta, R.M., Haminiuk, C.W.I., Maciel, G.M., Bracht, A., Ferreira,
I.C.F.R., 2016. The past decade findings related with nutritional composition,
K. Bravo, et al.
bioactive molecules and biotechnological applications of Passiflora spp. (passion
fruit). Trends Food Sci. Technol. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tifs.2016.10.006.
Da, M., Vasconcelos, S., Freitas Mota, E., Felix Gomes-Rochette, N., Célia, D., Nunes-
Pinheiro, S., et al., 2019. Chapter 3.1 - Açai or Brazilian Berry (Euterpe oleracea).
Nonvitamin Nonmineral Nutr.(Suppl). https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-812491-
8.00017-5.
Dorni Charles, A.I., Amalraj, A., Gopi, S., Varma, K., Anjana, S.N., 2017. Novel cosme-
ceuticals from plants—an industry guided review. J. Appl. Res. Med. Aromat. Plants.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jarmap.2017.05.003.
Efferth, T., 2019. Biotechnology applications of plant callus cultures. Eng. https://doi.
org/10.1016/j.eng.2018.11.006.
Euromonitor International, 2019a. Economies and Consumers Annual Data - Threatened
Vascular Plant Species. Retrieved from http://aplicacionesbiblioteca.udea.edu.
co:2382/portal/statisticsevolution/index (Accessed 31 May 2018. .
Euromonitor International, 2019b. Ingredients. (Accessed 31 May 2018. http://
aplicacionesbiblioteca.udea.edu.co:2382/portal/dashboard/index.
European Commission, 2017. Cosmetic Ingredient Database. https://ec.europa.eu/
growth/sectors/cosmetics/cosing_en.
Fongnzossie Fedoung, E., Zra, T., Nyangono Biyegue, C., Nouga Bissoue, A., Baraye, S.,
Tsabang, N., et al., 2018. Herbal cosmetics knowledge of Arab-Choa and Kotoko
ethnic groups in the semi-arid areas of far north Cameroon: ethnobotanical assess-
ment and phytochemical review. Cosmet. 5 (2), 31. https://doi.org/10.3390/
cosmetics5020031.
Future Market Insights, 2019. Natural Cosmetics Market: Global Industry Analysis, Size
and Forecast, 2018 to 2027. (Accessed 8 May 2019. https://www.
futuremarketinsights.com/reports/natural-cosmetics-market.
Geck, M.S., Reyes García, A.J., Casu, L., Leonti, M., 2016. Acculturation and ethnome-
dicine: a regional comparison of medicinal plant knowledge among the Zoque of
southern Mexico. J. Ethnopharmacol. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2016.04.036.
Giovannini, P., 2015. Medicinal plants of the Achuar (Jivaro) of Amazonian Ecuador:
ethnobotanical survey and comparison with other Amazonian pharmacopoeias. J.
Ethnopharmacol. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2015.01.038.
Gómez-Estrada, H., Díaz-Castillo, F., Franco-Ospina, L., Mercado-Camargo, J., Guzmán-
Ledezma, J., Medina, J.D., Gaitán-Ibarra, R., 2011. Folk medicine in the northern
coast of Colombia: an overview. J. Ethnobiol. Ethnomed. https://doi.org/10.1186/
1746-4269-7-27.
González-Minero, F., Bravo-Díaz, L., González-Minero, F.J., Bravo-Díaz, L., 2018. The use
of plants in skin-care products, cosmetics and fragrances: past and present. Cosmet. 5
(3), 50. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5030050.
Gordon, A., Cruz, A.P.G., Cabral, L.M.C., De Freitas, S.C., Taxi, C.M.A.D., Donangelo,
C.M., et al., 2012. Chemical characterization and evaluation of antioxidant properties
of Açaí fruits (Euterpe oleraceae Mart.) during ripening. Food Chem. https://doi.org/
10.1016/j.foodchem.2011.11.150.
Heil, N., Bravo, K., Montoya, A., Robledo, S., Osorio, E., 2017. Wound healing activity of
Ullucus tuberosus, an Andean tuber crop. Asia-Pac J. Trop. Biomed. 7 (6), 538–543.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apjtb.2017.05.007.
Jiménez, N., Carrillo-Hormaza, L., Pujol, A., Álzate, F., Osorio, E., Lara-Guzman, O., 2015.
Antioxidant capacity and phenolic content of commonly used anti-inflammatory
medicinal plants in Colombia. Ind. Crops Prod. 70, 272–279. https://doi.org/10.
1016/J.INDCROP.2015.03.050.
Juárez-Vázquez, M.D.C., Carranza-Álvarez, C., Alonso-Castro, A.J., González-Alcaraz,
V.F., Bravo-Acevedo, E., Chamarro-Tinajero, F.J., Solano, E., 2013. Ethnobotany of
medicinal plants used in Xalpatlahuac, Guerrero, México. J. Ethnopharmacol.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2013.04.048.
Lescano, C.H., Freitas de Lima, F., Caires, A.R.L., de Oliveira, I.P., 2018. Polyphenols
present in Campomanesia genus: pharmacological and nutraceutical approach.
Polyphenols Plants. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-813768-0.00027-x.
Lizcano, L.J., Bakkali, F., Begoña Ruiz-Larrea, M., Ignacio Ruiz-Sanz, J., 2010.
Antioxidant activity and polyphenol content of aqueous extracts from Colombian
Amazonian plants with medicinal use. Food Chem. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.
foodchem.2009.09.043.
Mahomoodally, M.F., Ramjuttun, P., 2016. A quantitative ethnobotanical survey of
phytocosmetics used in the tropical island of Mauritius. J. Ethnopharmacol. https://
doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2016.07.039.
Mansur, J.S., Breder, M.N.R., Mansur, M.C.A., Azulay, R.D., 1986. Correlação entre a
determinação do fator de proteção solar em seres humanos e por espectrofotometria.
An. Bras. Derm. Sifilogr. 61, 121–124.
Mieres-Castro, D., Schmeda-Hirschmann, G., Theoduloz, C., Gómez-Alonso, S., Pérez-
Navarro, J., Márquez, K., Jiménez-Aspee, F., 2019. Antioxidant activity and the
isolation of polyphenols and new iridoids from Chilean Gaultheria phillyreifolia and
G. poeppigii berries. Food Chem. 291, 167–179. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.
FOODCHEM.2019.04.019.
Ministerio de Agricultura y Desarrollo Rural, 2017. Agronet Estadísticas. (Accessed 30
August 2018. http://www.agronet.gov.co/estadistica/Paginas/default.aspx.
Mishra, S., Gogna, N., Dorai, K., 2019. NMR-based investigation of the altered metabolic
response of Bougainvillea spectabilis leaves exposed to air pollution stress during the
circadian cycle. Environ. Exp. Bot. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envexpbot.2019.04.
019.
Missouri Botanical Garden, 2019. Plant Finder. (Accessed 4 June 2019. https://www.
13
Industrial Crops & Products 144 (2020) 112007
missouribotanicalgarden.org/plantfinder/plantfindersearch.aspx.
Mukherjee, P.K., Bahadur, S., Chaudhary, S.K., Harwansh, R.K., Nema, N.K., 2015.
Validation of medicanl herbs for skin aging. In: Mukherjee, P.K. (Ed.), Evidence-
Based Validation Herbal Medice. Elsevier, pp. 119–147. https://doi.org/10.1016/
B978-0-12-800874-4.00005-2.
Mukherjee, P.K., Biswas, R., Sharma, A., Banerjee, S., Biswas, S., Katiyar, C.K., 2018.
Validation of medicinal herbs for anti-tyrosinase potential. J. Herb. Med. https://doi.
org/10.1016/j.hermed.2018.09.002.
Mukherjee, P.K., Maity, N., Nema, N.K., Sarkar, B.K., 2011. Bioactive compounds from
natural resources against skin aging. Phytomed. 19 (1), 64–73. https://doi.org/10.
1016/j.phymed.2011.10.003.
Ndhlovu, P.T., Mooki, O., Otang Mbeng, W., Aremu, A.O., 2019. Plant species used for
cosmetic and cosmeceutical purposes by the Vhavenda women in Vhembe District
Municipality, Limpopo, South Africa. S. Afr. J. Bot. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sajb.
2019.03.036.
Neri-Numa, I.A., Carvalho-Silva, L.B., Morales, J.P., Malta, L.G., Muramoto, M.T.,
Ferreira, J.E.M., et al., 2013. Evaluation of the antioxidant, antiproliferative and
antimutagenic potential of araçá-boi fruit (Eugenia stipitata Mc Vaugh - Myrtaceae)
of the Brazilian Amazon Forest. Food Res. Int. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodres.
2012.09.032.
Nunes, A.R., Rodrigues, A.L.M., de Queiróz, D.B., Vieira, I.G.P., Neto, J.F.C., Junior,
J.T.C., et al., 2018. Photoprotective potential of medicinal plants from Cerrado biome
(Brazil) in relation to phenolic content and antioxidant activity. J. Photochem.
Photobiol. B 189, 119–123. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.JPHOTOBIOL.2018.10.013.
Ogunwande, I.A., Avoseh, O.N., Olasunkanmi, K.N., Lawal, O.A., Ascrizzi, R., Flamini, G.,
2019. Chemical composition, anti-nociceptive and anti-inflammatory activities of
essential oil of Bougainvillea glabra. J. Ethnopharmacol. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.
jep.2018.12.017.
Petricevich, V.L., Abarca-Vargas, R., 2019. Allamanda cathartica: a review of the phy-
tochemistry, pharmacology, toxicology, and biotechnology. Mol. https://doi.org/10.
3390/molecules24071238.
Programa Safe+, ONUDI, 2015. Análisis De Competitividad Del Sector Cosméticos E
Ingredientes Naturales.
Kew, R.B.G., 2015. Plants of the World Online. Kew Science. http://www.
plantsoftheworldonline.org/.
Kew, R.B.G., 2016. State World’s Plants. Kew. .
Butler, Rhett A., 2016. The Top 10 Most Biodiverse Countries. https://news.mongabay.
com/2016/05/top-10-biodiverse-countries/?n3wsletter.
Ribeiro, R.V., Bieski, I.G.C., Balogun, S.O., Martins, D.T.O., 2017. Ethnobotanical study of
medicinal plants used by Ribeirinhos in the North Araguaia microregion, Mato
Grosso, Brazil. J. Ethnopharmacol. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2017.04.023.
Sagbo, I., Mbeng, W., 2018. Plants used for cosmetics in the Eastern Cape Province of
South Africa: a case study of skin care. Pharmacogn. Rev. https://doi.org/10.4103/
phrev.phrev_9_18.
Sayre, R.M., Agin, P.P., LeVee, G.J., Marlowe, E., 1979. A comparison if in vivo and in
vitro testing of sunscreening formulas. Photochem. Photobiol. 29 (3), 559–566.
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1751-1097.1979.tb07090.x.
Shahid-ul-Islam, Rather L.J., Mohammad, F., 2016. Phytochemistry, biological activities
and potential of annatto in natural colorant production for industrial applications - A
review. J. Adv. Res. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jare.2015.11.002.
SiB Colombia, 2019. Catálogo de la biodiversidad - Plantas. (Accessed 4 June 2019.
http://catalogo.biodiversidad.co/.
Silva, E.M., Souza, J.N.S., Rogez, H., Rees, J.F., Larondelle, Y., 2007. Antioxidant activ-
ities and polyphenolic contents of fifteen selected plant species from the Amazonian
region. Food Chem. 101 (3), 1012–1018. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.FOODCHEM.
2006.02.055.
SpecialChem, 2019. Ingredients Database - In-cosmetics Global. https://www.in-
cosmetics.com/products/ingredients-database/.
Stringheta, P.C., Silva, P.I., Costa, A.G.V., 2018. Annatto/Urucum— bixa orellana. In
Exot. Fruits. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-803138-4.00006-x.
Tauchen, J., Bortl, L., Huml, L., Miksatkova, P., Doskocil, I., Marsik, P., et al., 2016.
Phenolic composition, antioxidant and anti-proliferative activities of edible and
medicinal plants from the Peruvian Amazon. Rev. Bras. Farmacogn. 26 (6), 728–737.
https://doi.org/10.1016/J.BJP.2016.03.016.
Teixeira, M.P., Cruz, L., Franco, J.L., Vieira, R.B., Stefenon, V.M., 2016. Ethnobotany and
antioxidant evaluation of commercialized medicinal plants from the Brazilian Pampa.
Acta Bot. Bras. https://doi.org/10.1590/0102-33062015abb0150.
Torres Carro, R., Isla, M.I., Ríos, J.L., Giner, R.M., Alberto, M.R., 2015. Anti-inflammatory
properties of hydroalcoholic extracts of Argentine Puna plants. Food Res. Int. 67,
230–237. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.FOODRES.2014.11.012.
UL, 2019. Personal Care & Cosmetic Ingredient Suppliers | Prospector. from https://
www.ulprospector.com/en/la/PersonalCare (Accessed 4 June 2019). .
Wróblewska, K.B., Baby, A.R., Grombone Guaratini, M.T., Moreno, P.R.H., 2019. In vitro
antioxidant and photoprotective activity of five native Brazilian bamboo species. Ind.
Crops Prod. 130, 208–215. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.INDCROP.2018.12.081.
Zheng, Z.P., Cheng, K.W., To, J.T.K., Li, H., Wang, M., 2008. Isolation of tyrosinase in-
hibitors from Artocarpus heterophyllus and use of its extract as antibrowning agent.
Mol. Nutr. Food Res. https://doi.org/10.1002/mnfr.200700481.