DKSH Indonesia

Personal Care
Newsletter – October 2021

Delivering Growth – in Asia and Beyond.

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DKSH Indonesia Personal Care
Newsletter – September 2021

Let your eyes do the talking

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Eyeshadow is the New Lipstick

A focus on eye makeup (given how the eyes can be shown off even
share of colour cosmetics launches by eye
while wearing protective face masks)
colour sub-categories, 2016 vs 2020
Now is a good time for brands to focus on eye colour, a small 2016 2020
10 10
segment with growth potential given that the eyes remain on show 10

during the COVID-19 crisis.

8

Eye colour remains a small cosmetics category in terms of NPD and

has seen largely stagnant activity over the past five years.

% of launches
6
5

Since the wearing of protective face masks in public is likely to 4 4 4

4
persist well into 2021, a gap exists for more creative and bold eye
3 3
colour innovations to help people flaunt the exposed upper part of the
face, or better express emotion/mood while the bottom half of facial 2

skin is masked up.

0
Eyeshadow Eyeliner Eyebrow Eyelash

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What We Have Seen
EMEA: NPD Responds to COVID-
19/eco Challenges
Standout launches sought to minimise
notable disruption to cosmetics amid COVID-
19.
We have seen smudge-proof/durable
'beneath-the-mask' formulas, 'above-the-
mask' lines that hone in on eyes/brows,
more blurring with skincare, virtual makeup
concepts and an emphasis on wellbeing.
Eco claims rose but remain limited and can
expand.
APAC: Emergence of Creative,
Eco and Clean NPD
APAC may have been more successful at
dealing with the COVID-19 crisis*, but
disruption to makeup has been notable.
Brands have, however, been inventive,
creating 'mask-proof' formulas (eg smudge-
proof, foundation-free) and
playful/wellness concepts.
While niche, brands in Asia are aligning with
eco or 'clean beauty' trends.
Americas: NPD Aims to Stem
Reduced Engagement
Disruptive innovation has tried to stem
falling engagement with makeup amid
COVID-19 and to maintain brand awareness.
Standout launches include durable, transfer-
proof and anti-maskne 'beneath-the-mask'
formulas; bold eye makeup for 'above the
mask'; hybrid makeup/skincare lines and
playful gaming-inspired NPD.
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NPD Seeks to Mitigate the Impact of
COVID-19-Related Challenges
While APAC countries have generally been more successful (vs Western) at
dealing with the COVID-19 crisis, store closures, stay-at-home and social
distancing measures (especially at the start of the crisis) and the IN CHINA
mandatory wearing of protective masks have still negatively impacted
colour cosmetics sales.

That said, brands have been inventive as they seek to minimise any
reduced engagement. Over the past 12 months we have seen:
84%
of female makeup users in China
• durable, mattifying, smudge- or transfer-proof and oil-free and anti- agree that the process of applying
acne/maskne formulas* that are positioned as suitable for wearing makeup is a pleasure
beneath face masks
• ongoing blurring with skincare(a market that has performed better than
makeup during the crisis)**
• a focus on eye makeup(given how the eyes can be shown off even while
wearing protective face masks)
• even more wellness/playful themes to help distract consumers from
heightened anxieties and boost moods

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…and anti-acne/'maskne' formulas

Inspired by the anti-maskne

movement seen in skincare
during 2020 are anti-acne
base makeup formulas that
help minimise acne
exacerbated by the wearing
of face masks.
For acne-prone skin Antibacterial, oil-absorbing powder
Memebox's MBX I'm Meme Oil Cut (eg Skin The Erha 21 Acne Care Lab skincare
Mattifying Pact, Super Light Sun Base SPF collection also includes Pressed Powder,
50) targets oily skin more prone to which absorbs excess oil while helping to
spots/acne. It helps absorb sebum and prevent acne due to its antibacterial
excess oil and uses botanical ingredients properties.
(eg green calamine powder, Chlorella).

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 Our Solutions…

How to Make Your Eyes

the Center of Attention..
By DKSH Personal Care, Innovation Center

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 Nougat Eyeshadow

Key Ingredients

Synafil S115: Ceraphyl 791:

• Can positively contribute to
product properties
• Cosmetic filler based
• Skin feel and pay off
GH-202:
• Is naturally minerals
• Mica have reflective
properties for shimmery effect
• Mica minerals are often used
as color additives in cosmetic
• It delivers a lubricious and rich
touch with a long-lasting
afterfeel
Visionare:
• Metal effect pigment
• Combine dramatic metallic
reflection

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 Nougat Eyeshadow

DKSHID-IS-MU/08/21-070
Phase Ingredient INCI Supplier %
A1 TR2-TS Titanium Dioxide & Grea 2.00
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
A2 Iron Oxide Yellow CI : 77492 Spectra 1.40
A3 8-HT Talc Grea to 100
A4 GH-202 Mica Grea 10.00
A5 Magnesium Magnesium Stearate - 3.50
Stearate
A6 SI-Plus 160 Silica Nanogen 4.00
A7 Synafil S115 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite Eckart 5.00
B1 Ceraphyl 791 Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Ashland 5.00
B2 Ceraphyl ODS Octyldodecyl Stearate Ashland 3.00
B2 Belsil DM 350 Dimethicone Wacker 2.50
B3 Tegosoft OP Ethylhexyl Palmitate Evonik 1.50
B4 Optiphen Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol Ashland 1.00
C1 Syncrystal Ivory Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Eckart 22.00
Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxides
(and) Tin Oxide
C2 Visionare Bright Aluminum Powder (and) Silica (and) Eckart 17.50
Splendid Aluminum Hydroxide
Champage

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 Nougat Eyeshadow

Procedure:
1 Grinding All phase A for 3 second 2 time, homogeneous
2 Sifted phase A with mesh 100

3 Stirer phase B and add to phase B grinding for 3 second 2 time,

homogeneous
4 Sifted phase AB with mesh 100

5 Add Phase C to phase AB grinding for 3 second 1 time,

homogeneous
6 Sifted phase ABC with mesh 100
7 Press bulk to mold

Specification
Compressor Pressure 80 ; Air pressure machine is around 4 – 4.3
Timer : 2; Pressure : 1
Appearance : Solid
Stability test (Passed 1 months at 45°C)

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 Blink-Blink Milky Shadow
With Eastman AQ 55S Polymer
Key Ingredients

Beaute by Roquette DS 112: Eastman AQ 55S Polymer:

• Thickener & stabilizer system • Excellent film formation with &
• Suspending properties without alcohol
• Not impacted by pH or electrolytes • High gloss
• Unique dry & velvet feel • Long, lasting hold, even in rain
• Provides translucent formulation • Low tack
• Smudge resistant
Bentone Hydroclay 2000: • Tunable firmness
• Vegan • Water resistant
• Is easily processed as a powder or
pre-gel
• Increase the viscosity of the
aqueous phase & stabilizes
viscosity on ageing
• Is non-abrasive & imparts smooth
silky feel

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 Blink-Blink Milky Shadow
With Eastman AQ 55S Polymer
DKSHID-AR-MU/02/21-077
Phase Ingredient INCI Supplier %
A1 Water Aqua - 60.50
Starch Acetate & Hydroxyethyl Cellulose &
A2 Beaute by Roquette DS 112 Beaute by Roquette 4.00
Xanthan Gum
A3 Palmera G995U Glycerin KLK Oleo 2.00
A4 Bentone Hydroclay 2000 Hectorite Elementis 0.50
Sorbitan Laurate & Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate &
B1 Tego Care LTP Evonik 1.50
Dilauryl Citrate
C1 Water Aqua - 10.00
C2 Eastman AQ 55S Polymer Polyester-5 Eastman 3.00
D1 Nanosol CS Acrylate Copolymer Nanogen 7.00
Benzyl Alcohol & Benzoic Acid &
D2 Optiphen BD Ashland 0.50
Dehydroacetic Acid
Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium
D3 Mirage Twinkling Silver Eckart 2.00
Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide
Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium
D4 Mirage Glamour Red Eckart 3.00
Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide
Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium
D5 Mirage Glamour Gold Eckart 3.00
Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide
Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium
D6 Mirage Glamour Blue Eckart 3.00
Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide

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 Blink-Blink Milky Shadow
With Eastman AQ 55S Polymer
Procedure:

1 Disperse part A1 ~ A2 using homogenizer for 15-20 minutes at

room temperature.
2 Add A3 ~ A4 and homogenized until homogeneous.
3 Add B1 under homogenizer.
In other place, premix phase B (at 70-75⁰C under stirring until
4 perfectly melted. And cool down the temperature up to 40⁰C, then
add to phase AB.
5 Add part D one by one and mix until homogeneous.

Specification
Active matter: % – pH = NA
Appearance: Gel viscous, white pearlized
Stability test when available (Passed 3 months at 45°C)

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 Pen Eyeliner

Key Ingredients
Aquastyle SH-100: Belsil DMC 6038:
• Good initial stiffness • Enhances the softening and
• Durable, all-day hold moisturizing properties
• Excellent high humidity • Exerts a profoaming effect in
resistance shower gel and shampoo
• Smooth comb-through • Enhances the softness of skin
• No tack upon drying and hair
• No flaking

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 Pen Eyeliner

DKSHID-AR-MU/01/20-040
Phase Ingredient INCI Supplier %
A1 Water Aqua - 43.62
A2 Aquastyle SH-100 Acrylates Copolymer & Aqua Ashland 0.30
A3 Palmera G995 U Glycerin KLK Oleo 3.00
A4 Propylene Glycol USB Top Grade Propylene Glycol Arrow 4.00
A5 TEA Triethanolamine - 0.08
B1 Nanosol SS Alkyl Acrylates Copolymer Nanogen 5.00
B2 Nanosol CS Acrylate Copolymer Nanogen 20.00
Water & Black 2 & Butylene Glycol & Laureth-20 &
B3 Black OF-35 Nanogen 22.00
1,2-Hexanediol
B4 Belsil DMC 6038 Bis-PEG-15 Methyl Ether Dimethicone Wacker 1.00
B5 Optiphen Phenoxyethanol & Caprylyl Glycol Ashland 1.00

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 Pen Eyeliner

Procedure:
1 Mix Phase A until homogeneous and neutralize the pH with TEA.
2 Add phase B one by one under mixing until homogeneous.

Specification
Active matter: % – pH = ± 7.00
Appearance: Liquid, Black
Stability test when available (Passed 3 months at 45°C)

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 Waterproof Lash Lift Browcara

Key Ingredients
Bentone Gel ISD V: Tego Feel C 10:
• Emulsion stabilization (w/o and • Natural cellulose
o/w) Convenience
• Improves absorption and
• Excellent suspension of pigments
and actives
reduces oiliness
• Predictable, reproducible and • Absorbs human sebum
stable viscosity control
• Non-animal origin Sphyngony:
• Rheological control • Improves appearance of hair
quality
Foral 85-E CG:
• Excellent resistance to oxidation &
• Provides the appearance of a
discoloration healty scalp
• Low odor • Prevents hair loss
• Medium softening point • Rebalances the life cycle of
• Thermoplastic hydrogenated resin the hair
• Wide solubility & compatibility
range

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 Waterproof Lash Lift Browcara

DKSHID-AR-MU/09/21-076
Phase Ingredient INCI Supplier %
A1 Foral 85-E CG Glyceryl Hydrogenated Rosinate Eastman 10.00
A2 Cerabeil White 31548 Natural Beeswax Ceresine 16.00
A3 Fancol Polyiso 250-CG Hydrogenated Polyisobutene Elementis 5.00
A4 Sphyngony Sphinganine Evonik 0.10
B1 Purolan IDD Isododecane Lanxess 13.40
Isododecane & Disteardimonium
B2 Bentone Gel ISD V Elementis 35.00
Hectorite & Propylene Carbonate
C1 Optiphen Phenoxyethanol & Caprylyl Glycol Ashland 1.00
C2 Iron Oxide Black CI 77499 Spectra 4.50
C3 Tego Feel C10 Cellulose Evonik 10.00
C4 8HT-TS Talc and Tricaplylylsilane Grea 5.00

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 Waterproof Lash Lift Browcara

Procedure:
Heat phase A at 75-80⁰C until perfectly melted and mix well.
Cool down temperature up to 60⁰C (to prevent the IDD evaporate).
Premix phase B, add into phase A, homogenized until homogen.
Add phase C one by one under homogenizer until homogeneous.

Specification
Active matter: % – pH = ± 7.00
Appearance: Viscous, Black
Stability test when available (Passed x months at 45°C)

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 Acne Control Natural Finish Loose Powder

Key Ingredients
Beauty by Roquette SA 130:
• Inhibition of bacteria proliferation,
BBR SA 130 inhibits culibacterium
acnes ATCC 11827 strain
responsible for acne
• Limitation of pores clogging
• Reduction of sebum level
• Reduction of imperfections
• Natural alternative to salicylic acid
• Very well tolerated by skin
GH502-LL:
• Is naturally minerals
• Mica have reflective properties for
shimmery effect
• Mica minerals are often used as
color additives in cosmetic
Ceraphyl ODS:
• Give a Silky feeling

8HT - TS:
• The compability of variety off oil
• The Skin Feeling soft & smoooth
• The best dispertion
• Excellent Hydrophobic

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 Acne Control Natural Finish Loose Powder

DKSHID-IS-MU/08/21-071
Phase Ingredient INCI Supplier %
A1 8HT-TS Talc and Triethoxycaprylylsilane Grea to 100
A2 Tegolon 12-10 Nylon 12 Evonik 15.00
A3 GR-BN10 Boron Nitride Grea 20.00
A4 GH-502 LL Mica and Lauroyl Lysine Grea 20.00
Beaute by
A5 Succinic Acid Roquette 2.00
Roquette SA 130
A6 Magnesium
Magnesium Stearate - 5.00
Stearate
A7 Iron Oxide Yellow CI : 77492 Spectra 1.00
A8 Iron Oxide Red CI : 77491 Spectra 0.30
A9 Iron Oxide Black CI : 77499 Spectra 0.02
B1 Ceraphyl ODS Octyldodecyl Stearate Ashland 1.00
B2 Optiphen Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol Ashland 1.00

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 Acne Control Natural Finish Loose Powder

Procedure:
1 Mix Phase A for 3 second 2 time , homogeneous
2 Sifted phase A with mesh 100
3 Mix Phase B until, homogeneous

4 Add Phase B to Phase A, mix for 3 second 2

time, homogeneous
5 Sifted phase AB with mesh 100

Specification
Appearance : Powder
Stability test (Passed 1 months at 45°C)

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Inquiries and More Detailed Information

Email our DKSH Indonesia Personal Care Team: Visit our website:
ID_Sales_PCI@dksh.com https://www.dkshdiscover.com/pim/en/

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Our Innovation and Formulation Competences

1. Combining chemistry, art

and commercial services

8. Hands-on technical training 2. Technical brainstorming

and tailor-made solutions

Innovation
&
7. Trouble shooting and 3. Idea generation
Formulation
cost improvement and conceptualization

6. Product demonstration 4. Formulation development,

customization and duplication
5. Standard spec test that complies
with local and global formulations
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Our Innovation and Formulation Competences

We develop cutting-edge products and formulations from our network of 15 state-of-the-art

innovation centers located worldwide.
Our innovative ingredients and formulations application coverage:

Skin care Hair care Oral care Sun care Color cosmetics Home care Toiletries

Head office Surabaya office Innovative center and warehouse

PT. DKSH Indonesia PT. DKSH Indonesia Jl. Raya Narogong KM. 7
AIA Building 39th floor Pergudangan Ritz Gate Blok I/1 Jl. Caringin No. 3A
Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 48A, Jl. Muncul, Bohar Timur, Gedangan Bojong Menteng, Rawa Lumbu
Semanggi, Jakarta Selatan 12930 Sidoarjo 61254 Bekasi
Ph +62 21 2988 8558 Ph +62 31 8543 891 / 92 Ph +62 21 8226 811
Fax +62 21 2988 7870 Fax +62 31 8536 123 Fax +62 21 8241 2855

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Thank you for your attention

Delivering Growth – in Asia and Beyond.

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