COSMETICS PRODUCTS DEVELOPMENT
Term: Hair Peg - third stage of hair development
Desiree A. Lumaban
HAIR TREATMENT
INTRODUCTION:
• Hair follicles originates from an interaction between
epidermal and dermal layers of the skin
• Each hair follicle originates from an interaction
between epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. So
hair follicles are in a sheath of epidermal cells and
connective tissues which encloses the root of the hair.
• Term: Hair follicle - A shaft or opening on the surface of
the skin through which hair grows.
• Here is a picture of the layers of the skin, so if we could
remember, again epidermis is the outer layer of the
skin
• Dermis naman ang subcutaneous layer which serves
as a cushion for the dermis and epidermis and
subcutaneous tissue serves as an accessory
HAIR PEG
1. Superficial dermis increase in number and grow
forward.
2. Specialized fibroblasts which will become the dermal
papilla
3. Keratin cells become the hair shaft.
4. Hair 'peg' migrates downwards to form the follicle with
swellings.
5. Hair follicle has one of the highest rates of cell division
in the human body
In the next slide Specific cells from the superficial dermis
increase in number and grow forward to form a 'peg'. Beneath
this are specialized fibroblasts which will become the dermal
papilla. Epidermal cells adjacent to the dermal papilla will
multiply and push a column of keratinizing cells towards the
scalp surface, and these keratinizing cells becomes the hair
shaft. The hair 'peg' migrates downwards to form the follicle with
swellings appearing as the column elongates. The hair follicle
has one of the highest rates of cell division in the human body
and makes considerable demands on energy to sustain such
growth.
• Dermal Papilla - main role in the regulation of hair
growth and formation.
• Hair Shaft - visible part of the hair that sticks out of the
skin
• Pre-germ - first stage of hair dev
• Hair germ - second stage of hair dev
•
STRUCTURE:
1. Cortex - flat cells which overlap in a roof-tile formation
with an intracellular content to bind them together
2. Two regions of cortex
• Paracortex - predominant
• Orthocortex - minority component
3. Paracortex - predominant Orthocortex - minority
component
• Eumelanin - brown to black coloration
• Pheomelanin - auburn tone
Now let’s proceed to the hair structure. Cortex is composed of
flat cells which overlap in a roof-tile formation with an
intracellular content to bind them together. Cuticle is the
outermost structure which surrounds the cortex, so si cuticle
protects in the inside of the hair shaft from damage. Each cell
has an outer membrane and contained within the membrane are
three distinct layers, the A-layer, the exocuticle and the
endocuticle.
• There are 2 regions of cortex the paracortex and
orthocortex. So Paracortex is predominant and the
cells are embedded in sulfur-rich matrix with chemical
crosslinkages where as Orthocortex cells is a minority
component and do not have this protection.
• Lastly is the 2 types of melanin. First is eumelanin -
gives us a brown to black coloration while pheomelanin
gives an auburn tone.
ETHNIC HAIR STRUCTURE
Here we can see two pictures on the left side a woman with an
AfroCaribbean hair and on the right side we have a Caucasian
haired woman.
• Afro-Caribbean hair is a very tightly curled and has an
elliptical transverse section when viewed under the
microscope. So The amino acid content is similar to
Caucasian hair pero ang distribution of the sulfur
amino acids differs, which gives rise to the curly 2
appearance. The non-uniform distribution of the
disulfide bridges on one side of the hair fiber causes
the curliness. This gives rise to problems such as
 difficulty in combing, dryness and brittleness, which in
turn can lead to hair breakage.
GROWTH
• Anagen - active growth stage of hair. Lasts 3-6 years.
• Telogen - resting stage. Lasts between 6-8 weeks.
• Catagen - transition stage where hair stops growing.
Lasts 2-3 weeks
Typical growth rate for human hair is 0.3-0.5 mm per day. A
healthy scalp (the top of the head extending from 2-3 cm above
the ear), supports something of the order of 100000 hair follicles.
• So in here we have the stages or cycles of hair growth:
the anagen, telogen, catagen. Anagen - is the active
growth stage of hair. Lasts between 3-6 years. Telogen
- known as the resting stage. Lasts between 6-8
weeks. Lastly is Catagen -which is the transition stage
where hair stops growing. Lasts 2-3 weeks
HAIR CHEMISTRY
Let’s move on to the hair chemistry. Hair fibres are composed of
approximately 85% of the complex protein keratin, with some
7% of associated water. And we also have other principal
constituents are lipids 3%, and pigment 2%. melanin, derived in
biosynthesis from the amino acid tyrosine. There are also
present trace amounts of many metals such as aluminium (Al),
chromium (Cr), calcium (Ca), copper (Cu), iron (Fe),
manganese (Mn), magnesium (Mg) and zinc (Zn), the last in a
fairly high concentration of 22 mg per 10Og of hair
CHEMICAL HAIR REACTIVITY
Under the chemical hair reactivity we have:
• Alkali Hydrolysis- Hydrolysis by strong alkalis is less
complete than acid hydrolysis, in the sense that, as
well as liberating individual amino acids. This is
demonstrated by use of a colorimetric test, the biuret
test, which works positively upon the alkali hydrolysate.
This test applies only where peptide linkages, are
present.
• Acid hydrolysis - acid hydrolysis of keratin, e.g. with
moderately strong hydrochloric acid,breaks down the
protein into its constituent amino acids almost entirely.
So in here si Ruhemann’s Purple is used to detect and
quantify proteins in their hydrolysates which is useful
in measuring the extent of damage of hair cuticle and
the alleviation of damage by certain hair cair
treatments.
• Reactions of sulfur amino acids - most interesting
sulfur amino acid, cystine, may be reduced to general
thiol groups (—SH) by a number of reducing agents.
So these agents include e mercaptans such as
thioglycollic acid, alkali bisulfiteand certain phosphorus
derivatives [8] such as tertrakis (methylol)
phosphonium chloride (TMPC).
o Ammonium thioglycolate - is the most
important as it forms the basis of most
permanent waving processes and also many
hairstraighteningproducts.
Alkylation of thiol (SH) groups - Alkylation can be readily
accomplished with a wide range of alkylating agents. So for
example is the reaction of thiols with iodoacetic acid - meron
syang obvious application in the determination of the degree of
reduction of hair that has been treated with reducing agents.
• Lastly is Reactivity of “free” amino groups - Free'
amino groups are those which do not participate in
either the continuous protein chain, or in the cross-
linking bonds formed between adjacent protein chains.
Amino groups can be made to enter into the formation
of interprotein chain bonds by reaction with aldehydes,
including formaldehyde.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
• Mechanical properties - Human scalp hair fibres have
diameters within the range 30-100 µm. (micromole ▪
hardness similar to that of stainless steel ▪ breaking
load of a typical hair is of the order of 100 g.
• Electrical properties - resistivity of hair is of the order
of 800 megohms, ▪ particularly high dielectric constant
of 8.3, similar to calcite ▪ Iso-electric point is
approximately 5.
• Influence of water 3 ▪ 85-87% - large changes in water
content and physical properties of hair. ▪ Less than
85% - water uptake occurs in the regain isotherm. ▪
Greater than 85% - “solution region”
• Optical properties - refractive indices of hair
measured at a wavelength of 578 µm are 1.557 and
1.540.
INTERPRETATION OF PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
1. The extreme anisotropy of the hair fibre is
demonstrated by a number of its properties, e.g. the
contrasting values for radial and longitudinal swelling.
2. Hardness measurements also give unexpectedly large
values, indicating the closeness of packing and
strength of the lateral bonding operative in the keratin
molecule.
3. The equally large values for the mechanical moduli,
e.g. Young's modulus and rigidity modulus can be
attributed to the factors described in (2) above.
4. That strong thermal effects are met when hair is
allowed to interact with water reflects the highly polar
nature of the keratin chain segments and the generous
surface area available for adsorption of water.
 5. The magnitude of the volume swelling of hair in water
is a consequence of the abundance of water-sensitive
bonds between adjacent keratin chains.
6. Hair has a high electrical resistivity and a fairly low
dielectric constant. In practical terms these properties
relate well to the fact that it is easy to generate
electrostatic charges by brushing and combing. These
charges leak away only very slowly, giving rise to the
hairdressing phenomenon of 'flyaway hair'.
7. The refractive index of hair is high, making it difficult to
enhance its gloss by depositing films of organic
polymers upon its surface.
8.4 “SET”: A UNIQUE PHYSICAL PROPERTY OF
KERATIN FIBRES
• They enabled the development of a molecular model:
unstretched keratin chains are folded (corrugated),
whereas fully stretched keratin exists in a planar,
sheet-like form. These are referred to as alpha (half-
length) keratin and beta (1 in 1) keratin. Astbury viewed
keratin chains as molecular 'springs,' which has always
been a good analogy.
• The fibre is said to have'set' in the stretched state. Set
can be defined quantitatively as follows. If the original
length of the fiber is L and the extended length is
Length of fiber + δL, the set produced in the fiber is
δL/L. Because this set, like the beta state of keratin, is
intrinsically unstable, the set fibre will attempt to revert
to its original length, i.e. δL decreases with time.
Exposure to liquid water or its vapour accelerates this
process, so after time t has passed, the excess length
will be δLt where δLt is
• This treatment can be directly applied to the set
achieved in single fibers. However, when testing hair
products, it is more useful to apply the Micchelli and
Kohler method to tresses of hair made of many parallel
hair fibers. These should weigh about 1g each and
roughly correspond to a portion of a head of hair. Tress
is a long lock of a woman's hair. After the setting
treatment, the tresses are wound into spiral curls and
their lengths are measured at various intervals.
Typically, to speed up the process, they are exposed to
a high humidity environment throughout the test.
PERMANENTS AND TEMPORARY SET
1. Water waving techniques are used to create a
temporary set, which is then treated with wave sets,
hairsprays, and other products.
2. Chemical treatments such as thioglycollate-based hair-
waving and -straightening products, are used to
achieve permanent sets
- Ammonium thioglycolate
• Water waving techniques are used to create a
temporary set, which is then treated with wave sets,
hairsprays, and other products. Physical mechanisms,
as opposed to chemical mechanisms, are used in
these treatments. Because of their nature, the set will
last only a few days rather than weeks or months.
• Chemical treatments, such as thioglycollate-based
hair-waving and -straightening products, are used to
achieve permanent sets. (Ammonium thioglycolate is a
chemical used to straighten hair. This chemical is much
less damaging to the scalp and hair than others and is
also much less smelly. Its function is to make follicles
more permeable and break up the disulfide bonds that
make curls) Other keratin-reducing agents, as well as
caustic lye products, fall into this category. The latter is
almost exclusively used in straightening products for
negroid hair (Negroid hair is generally commonly
helical or spiral with different variations: Usually ganito
yung hair ng mga black people, yung super kulot).
Basically, the products that cause a permanent set
introduce new chemical bonds into the hair structure,
particularly new disulfide bonds.
• By replacing disulfide bonds with other covalent cross-
linkages that cannot participate in the interchange, a
technically permanent set can be obtained. The
lanthionine bond and the lysinoalanine bond are two
examples of mechanically stable cross-linkages.
Lanthionine bond is a bond created when disulfide
bonds are broken by hydroxide chemical hair relaxers
after the relaxer is rinsed from the hair.
HAIR CARE PRODUCTS
• Various constraints were imposed on hair-care product
formulators during the 1990s. These can be divided
into three categories: performance-related,
environmental, and a growing concern for health
hazards.
1. Those that use physical mechanisms, such as
shampoos, conditioners, and hair sprays
2. Those that cause chemical changes in the hair, such
as permanent waving, hair-straightening preparations,
and permanent hair colorants.
CLASSIFICATION OF HAIR-CARE PRODUCTS
Hair-care products may be classified into two groups:
1. Those that use physical mechanisms, such as
shampoos, conditioners, and hair sprays.
2. Those that cause chemical changes in the hair, such
as permanent waving, hair-straightening preparations,
and permanent hair colorants.
• Hair-care products are designed to provide positive
benefits to the hair while eliminating or reducing
undesirable characteristics. Hair is an extremely
important aspect of one's appearance, but despite its
strength, it is susceptible to damage from weathering,
chemical attack, heat, and abrasion. Roughness and
dryness are symptoms of poor hair care.
• Today's fashion, for example, is to dye hair. We must
be cautious when deciding whether or not to color our
hair because chemical-laden hair dyes can irritate your
scalp and cause hair thinning or loss in some people,
as well as long-term chemical changes in the hair shaft.
•
HAIR-CARE PRODUCTS: RELEVANT HAIR
CHARACTERISTICS
• Hair characteristics can be measured objectively in the
laboratory or through psychometric tests. In the latter,
human observers are used in a statistically designed
experiment.
• The objective test data must be able to be correlated
with the consumer's perception. A hair attribute is a
feature that can be reliably assessed by the product
user.
• Psychometric test
• Negative characteristics include dandruff (a scalp skin
disorder: common condition that causes the skin on the • Cetyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride (CTAC) – cationic
scalp to flake.) and hair greying. For the former, a wetting agent
shampoo containing an 'active ingredient' is preferred, - Key ingredient
and for the latter, a variety of hair colorants are - Emulsifier
recommended • Cetearyl alcohol- confers viscosity to the product
• Citric acid- helps lower pH levels Citric acid helps lower
CURRENT POST-SHAMPOO HAIR-CARE PRODUCTS the pH in many products, such as shampoo, that have
• One approach to developing new products is to link the much higher, more alkaline pH levels. This helps keep
ability of existing hair products to produce the desired hair at healthy pH levels
properties. Deficiencies can be compensated for, and • Other ingredients: o Panthenol- shown to give an
negative traits can be reduced or eliminated. increase in volume to the hair
• Instead of quoting highly detailed formulae, a building- o Dimethicone copolyol- improves wet
block formula for each type of product will be examined combability, reduces flyway and confers
first. Following that, an investigation will be conducted softness to the hair
to determine how the simplified formula can be o Hydrolysed proteins of vegetable origin –
modified to achieve the properties required by the humectants, providing body to the damaged
products. hair.
• Some formulae contain special additives that are Formula II- represents a more intensive conditioner.
thought to be effective at low concentrations.
Effectiveness is defined as bringing about significant
changes in product performance or introducing novel
properties, i.e. properties not previously associated
with that type of product. The range of silicon
compounds now available includes examples of such
additives, and Alexander has reviewed the use of many
of them in hair-care products. Unlike other proposed
raw materials, such as protein derivatives, these raw
materials are chemically well defined.

HAIR CONDITIONERS
1. Smooth, tangle-free wet and dry combing. • Glycerin- acts as humectant. It attracts water to the
2. Reduction of static electricity generated by combing hair, thus conferring moisturizing benefit for dry,
and brushing dry hair, otherwise known as 'flyaway' permed or damaged hair.
hair. • Benzalkonium Chloride- foaming and cleansing agent.
3. Improved gloss or lustre. It can be also used as bactericidal agent at
4. Improved body or volume. concentrations up to 5%
5. Improved texture of chemically or heat damaged hair. • Cocamide MEA
- The rinse conditioner is applied to the hair after Formula III – hair conditioning mousse
shampooing and rinsing away the shampoo. - Represents essentially a styling product
The hair is towel-dried and then the conditioner
uniformly distributed through the hair. A few
minutes after application the treated hair is
rinsed with clean water and styled as desired.
(a) Formulation
Formula I – represents a traditional composition for this
category of product
 • Polymer VC 713- have been developed to improve the • Setting lotions do not work by sticking hair fibres
condition of hair together, but by coating each hair fibre, creating
- the polymer provides superior greater interfibre friction and reducing moisture uptake,
holding power at low solids level, thus conferring greater control to the hair.
even in high humidity environments.
• Mulgofen ON 870 - used as low foaming emulsifier,
wetting agent, dispersant and detergent in Bath
products, Conditioners, Liquid Soap and etc.
• Cationic Emulsion – ex. CTAC which leads to smooth,
tangle-free combing and a reduction in 'flyaway' These
days, hair conditioning mousse is popular. This may be
because of the ease of application.
• The correct dosage can be selected merely by filling
the palm of the hand to varying degrees. For ex. size
of an egg, size of a gold ball and etc. directly from the
container. • The choice of polymer is important to ensure a flexible
• The mousse foam breaks down fairly rapidly on wet film is left on the hair which does not become sticky
hair, but not too quickly so as to prevent the user from under conditions of high humidity. The vinyl acetate
being able to control distribution copolymers have better water resistance than polyvinyl
pyrrolidone and give greater flexibility to hair.
EVALUATION OF CONDITIONERS • Vinyl acetate copolymers – gives greater flexibility to
hair
1. Hair Test Swatches- can be assessed in-vitro to
determine their effect on combing. • Ethoxylated fatty alcohol- a non-ionic environmentally
- can be easily used in-vivo friendly surfactants primarily used in detergents,
2. Conditioner’s effect on static electrification of dry hair – personal care e.g. for shampoo, conditioners as well
can be assessed using a charge locator as used by as for textile and leather processing.
factory engineers.
- Valve voltmeter in which the grid is STYLING MOUSSE
connected to a probe. The greater • The above formula can be used as an aid to producing
the bias of the grid, the larger the roller curls or for blowdrying. Both processes involve
charges affecting the probe. applying the product to 'towel-dried' hair, but blow-
- Static hair occurs when your hair drying involves simultaneous use of heat and styling
builds up an electric charge, with brush or comb.
meaning it has gained some extra • Such products (the setting lotion and styling mousse)
electrons thanks to friction or a are very effecting in improving body, texture and
change in humidity. That makes the control of the hair mass
strands of your hair repel each other, • The difference from the setting lotion, or the feature of
leaving your hair frizzy and difficult this product is that it is discharged from its container by
to style. a mixture of butane and propane propellant
- Measurements can be in-vitro or in- • On release from the container, the propellant droplets
vivo 8 rapidly expand to form a characteristic foam
3. Gloss or lustre – can be quantified by scientific
instrument in-vitro
- Gloss measurements in-vivo are
more difficult since perception of
gloss takes account of both reflected
and scattered light.
4. Texture and Softness – may be evaluated in-vitro or in-
vivo
5. Control and Manageability- best assessed in-vivo

STYLING PRODUCTS
• Setting Lotion
• Application is to towel-dried hair with combing to
distribute the product evenly through the hair. The hair
is then set on curling rollers and dried. On removal of
the curling rollers the hair should be combed gently into STYLING GEL
the desired style. • Styling gel formulations are derived from setting lotions
• Traditional setting lotions are ethanol/water mixtures in by adding structure. They can be formulated in a
which polymeric materials have been dissolved.
 variety of strengths as well as other attributes such as
'wet look', conditioning/moisturizing or 'shine'.
• Dispersion of the carbomer is critical in this type of
formula. It should be added to the water/alchohol mix
slowly and carefully with high-speed shear to allow
lump-free dispersal.
• Carbomers - are thickening agents that help control the
viscosity and flow of cosmetic products. They also help
distribute and suspend insoluble solids into liquid, and
prevent the oil and liquid parts of a solution from
separating.
• Sodium hydroxide- is the last ingredient to be added.
This neutralizes the carbomer, thus producing the
desired viscosity.
• Packaging is usually in tubes or pots and such
products have greater appeal for the male user.
• Used sparingly they give texture and shape, but used
generously, stiff, spiky styles can be created.
• Other ingredients which may be of benefit are:
- propylene glycol for a 'wet look',
- silicone for gloss and condition,
- panthenol for condition and
moisturizing
HAIRSPRAY
• Aerosol or Non-Aerosol packaging These terms refer
to the delivery system used for the hair spray 10
• Aerosol spray- conventionally formulated to provide
various strengths of hold from normal to maximum.
• These terms refer to the delivery system used for the
hair spray o Propellant o Valve
o Actuators
These are parts of an aerosol spray. We can make Profound
changes in performance by altering the dimensions of the
chambers and orifices in the valve and the actuator chosen for
the product. For example, a finer spray could be obtained if the
actuator orifice was reduced, the expansion chamber enlarged
and diameter of the swirl chamber in the valve increased.
• The aerosol hairspray should be held at a distance of
approx. 20cm from hair to allow satisfactory even
coverage.
Di natin pwede iapply si aerosol hairspray ng
masyadong malapit or masyado malayo because if
that’s the case, the coverage wont be even.
• Particle size is an important factor in achieving
satisfactory coverage without the potential for particle
inhalation.
• When the droplets arrive on the hair most of the
propellant has been lost through evaporation. Take
note that: The propellant is a gaseous compound which
pushes the product out of the container and produces
a spray.
• The droplets are therefore quite concentrated polymer
solutions and will react with the hair fibre in one of two
ways. This is dependent on surface energy, volatility
and viscosity.
• If they are not spread efficiently they will bind adjacent
hair fibres by 'beads' of polymer. à spot welding
• Conversely, if they are less concentrated and less
viscous, efficient spreading occurs and the hair mass
is bound by seams of dried polymer. à seam welding
• The former effect is known as 'spot welding' and the
latter as 'seam welding'
• Ideal hairspray:
1. has a relatively fine spray which is gentle enough
not to disturb the configuration of the hair.
2. It should give whole-head coverage quickly, thus
the spray pattern should be wide-angled.
3. Drying time should be relatively rapid.
4. The dried spray should not be tacky on the hair,
nor should it become tacky with exposure to high
humidity. Meaning, ang ideal hairspray it should
not produce any stickiness lalo na when exposed
to high humidity.
5. It should be easily removable by brushing or
shampooing. Because if not, 'buildup' will occur
and the hair becomes dull and coarse in texture.
a.) Hairspray formulations:
Picture of the two formulations
• Both formulae contain a hair-control polymer
which is neutralized with an amino alcohol, AMP,
to ensure that the spray residues can be removed
more easily during shampooing.
• Dimethicone copolyol- a surfactant of the silicone
glycol type, which confers superior combing
properties together with a softer, smoother texture
to the hair
• The main disadvantage of the pump-driven
product is that a coarser, wetter spray is produced.
Sa dalawang delivery system ng hairspray, the
aerosol type is more recommended kasi it would
give you a finer spray when applied correctly.
Compared to the pump-driven na mag produce ng
wetter spray.
• Environmental considerations have led to the
evaluation of alternative propellants allowing
formulators flexibility to create products containing
less volatile organic compounds (VOCs).
• Environmental considerations à less volatile
organic compounds (VOCS)
• DME (dimethyl ether) is a more polar propellant
than the hydrocarbons, and can be used with
aqueous-based formula.
• If DME is to have consideration in a hairspray
context, then the chosen resin must also be
compatible with water.

b.) Manufacture
• must be done in a flame-proof area with spark
proof manufacturing equipment
• A top-entry mixing vessel with a variable-speed
mixer is required.
1. The alcohol is added to the mixing vessel.
2. The resin is added to the alcohol and mixed until all the
solid has dissolved.
3. The neutralizer is added to the mixing vessel and
mixed for approximately ten minutes. 11
4. Dimethicone copolyol, perfume and any other additives
are added and mixed until the product is homogeneous
and clear.
HAIRDRESSING
Major categories:
1. Brilliantines
a.) Jelly
b.) Pomade
o Based on petrolatum, with mineral or vegetable oil,
beeswax and silicones as possible additives
o The newer formulae are lighter-textured due to the use
of vegetable wax and oil.
o The major use it to add lustre while giving style
definition and reducing frizziness.
c.) Liquid
o Based on vegetable or highly refined mineral oils
o They induce gloss by coating the hair fibres in a very
thin film of oil and help to lubricate the scalp, preventing
dryness.
d.) Wax- composed of carnauba, ceresin or ozokerite
combined with mineral oil or lanalon to make the
formula pliable. When we say pliable, it means can be
easily bent.
2. Emulsions
o Formula IX is representative, have some unique
properties, although this is a very traditional water-
in-oil emulsion type of formula.
o Such an emulsion is quite stable until rubbed
briskly, when it breaks, giving rise to freed droplets
of water.
o The water acts as a grooming aid and reduces
greasiness of the product. The higher fatty acids
in the beeswax are critical to the formula.
o The paraffin wax is also an important constituent,
but it is possible to replace this with
microcrystalline wax.
3. Aerosol hair dressings
o Designed for male use and have a lower polymer
concentrations than their female counterpart
o The inclusions of materials such as PEG 400 and
PEG laurate will allow some re-groomability.
HAIR-CARE PRODUCTS WITH CHEMICAL MECHANISM
Permanent waving
2 stage process:
1. There is a reduction or breaking of the disulfide bonds.
• Disulfide bonds are bonds that give strength and
rigidity to the hair.
As we know in the structure of our hair, hair is made mostly of a
protein called keratin, which is also present in nails. In hair,
keratin molecules are arranged in straight bundles. These
bundles are held together by disulphide bonds which give
strength to the hair.
• Thioglycolic acid and Ammonia à Ammonium
thioglycolate
• Ammonium thioglycolate is a chemical that breaks the
disulfide bonds
• By breaking and reforming these disulfide bonds, it
allow us to rearrange the wave pattern of the hair.
• Ammonium thioglycolate acts as a reducing agent in
permanent waving formulations for hair treatment
ADVANTAGES
• The viscous vehicle moderates the reaction rate of the
thioglycolate with the hair
• In the emulsion form, the application of the product on
to the hair is safer and more controllable.
• Perming formulation is Emulsion and oil-in-water ( o/w)
type
• Formula X would normally require only one emulsifier
which would be of a high HLB value.
• HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is the
balance of the size and strength of the hydrophilic and
lipophilic moieties of a surfactant molecule.
• HLB measures the affinity of the emulsifying agent for
water. 12
• Since our formulation uses two emulsifiers which is the
sorbitan oleate (lipophilic) and polysorbate 40
(hydrophilic) and our formula for permanent hair
waving would normally require 1 emulsifying agent. We
will now solve for the effective combined HLB given by
the expression:
• Effective combined HLB given by the expression:
[SHOW FORMULA]
• The HLB value of approximately 13 means that the
combined effect of the two emulsifiers is equivalent to
one of about 13.
• The HLB scale ranges from 0 to 20
• HLB values greater than 10 are more hydrophilic and
thus better at stabilizing o/w emulsions.
• In contrast, emulsifiers with HLB values less than 10
are more hydrophobic and therefore better suited for
w/o emulsions. Since our formula is oil-in-water
emulsion and ang combined HLB is 12.8, meaning,
effective sya and stabilized sya.
2. Neutralization or oxidation process which re-forms the
bonds in different configuration.
• Neutralizer fixes hair in a new way. It is applied to the
hair follicles to define a new shape.
• Neutralizer reforms the disulfide bonds of the hair and
sets the new curl pattern.
• Unlike curling your hair using hair, using these
products (perming formulation & neutralizer) breaks
down natural bonds in the hair and rearranges them to
 form new bonds. In short, it is a permanent procedure dissolving of dermal lipids, from the skin, on contact with
that breaks the natural cell structure of your hair and defatting agents.) , therefore various post-conditioning
re-structures it. That is why a neutralizer is applied and treatments like silk secrets and etc. are available to lubricate the
used to rebond the structure of the hair, giving you the scalp, moisturize and add lustre to the hair.
desired texture and shape. • “Canerow” - The art of plaiting the hair close to the
scalp in a variety of patterns
To summarize the procedure in doing the permanent waving. • Before, natural oils such as coconut oil or shea butter
The first thing you will do is, you will wrap your hair in a perm were used to maintain scalp suppleness during the
rod, this perm rod will determine what size and what kind of curl teasing, stretching process as the hair is plaited.
or perm you want in your hair. After that, you will now start • Now, more modern hair pomade formulae are used
applying the perming formulation which contains an ammonium which are blends of waxes, oils and petroleum jelly.
thioglycolate to break the disulfide bonds that hold the natural
wave pattern of our hair. After the waving lotion has had time to
process and has been rinsed away and the rods have been
blotted to remove excess water, a neutralizer is applied. The
neutralizer is actually what reforms the disulfide bonds of the
hair and sets the new curl pattern. It is also the most potentially
damaging stage of the perming process and should always be
closely monitored. Once allowed to take effect, the neutralizer is
rinsed away, the rods are removed, and the hair is re-rinsed for
good measure, it can be styled as desired.

HAIR STRAIGHTENERS
• Straightening changes the hair strands’ physical shape
through a chemical process
• The breaking and re-forming of bonds permanently
rearranges the internal protein structure.
2 stage process
1. Application of the relaxer
2. Applying a neutralizing shampoo

These are traditional hair-strengthening products:

a. Caustic-lye formulae - This contains 5-10% of sodium
hydroxide, which breaks the disulphide bonds. The hair
loosens up, causing the curls to disappear. Method of
use
1. Apply a regular shampoo followed by
combing in a petroleum jelly preparation.
2. Apply the caustic lye preparation working
quickly to keep processing time to a
minimum.
3. Treat with neutralizing solution.
4. Treat the hair with a pomade if desired -
shampoo as necessary with a regular
shampoo.
b. Thioglycollate hair straighteners –
Same sa naga pa rebond tayo ng buhok sa mga salon,
the first thing that they will do is to wash and dry the
hair. After that, they will apply the straightening relaxer.
If na applyan na ng relaxer, you will wait for an hour to
process the relaxer. Then, pwede na sya i-rinse. After
rinsing, i-dry ito ulit using blower. If dry na ang buhok,
it will be straightened using hair iron 13 and after that
we can apply neutralizer. A neutralizer is used to re-
bond the structure of the hair, giving you the desired
texture and shape
• Both of this treatment must be followed by the
application of a neutralizer.

Post-conditioning treatments. The hair relaxer treatment has a

defatting action (when we say defatting, this is the chemical