Unit Diagnose and Repair Body Electrical System Diagnose and Repair Body Electrical System L.O. 3 Repair Body Electrical System

Unit DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR BODY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Module DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR BODY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

L.O. 3 Repair Body Electrical System
LEARNING OUTCOME #3 REPAIR BODY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

CONTENTS:
1. Repair tools, equipment, and materials
2. Soldering technique
3. Wearing of PPEs
4. Hazards associated with the operations
5. Check and Remove Ignition Switch
6. Install Ignition Switch
7. Inspect and Remove Combination Switch
8. Disassemble Combination Switch
9. Assemble Combination Switch
10. Install Combination Switch
11. Perform Headlight and Taillight Wiring System (Negative Switching)
12. Perform Headlight and Taillight Wiring System (Negative Switching 2 Relay)
13. Perform Headlight and Taillight Wiring System (Positive Switching)
14. Perform Headlight and Taillight Wiring System (Positive Switching2 Relay)
15. Perform Turn Signal and Hazard Warning Wiring System
16. Perform Turn Signal and Hazard Warning Wiring System (Positive Switching 2
Relay)
17. Perform Turn Signal and Hazard Warning Wiring System (Negative Switching 2
Relay)
18. Remove and Install Hazard Warning Switch
19. Perform Brake Warning Wiring System (Negative Switching)
20. Perform Brake Warning Wiring System (Positive Switching)
21. Remove and Install Stop Light Switch
22. Perform Reverse Light Wiring System
23. Remove and Install of Back Up Light Switch
24. Remove and Install of Back Up Light Bulb
25. Perform Horn Wiring Circuit
26. Remove and Install Horn
27. Remove and Install Horn Switch
28. Perform Dome Light Circuit
29. Remove and Install of Dome Light Bulb
30. Remove and Install of Dome Light Switch
31. Remove and Install of Door Switch
32. Removal and Inspection of Fuel Gauge
33. Post-Repair Testing
34. 5S
35. 3Rs
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA
1. Job requirements are determined from workplace instructions

2. Diagnostic information is sourced and interpreted using industry criteria
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SERVICING Developed: Document No. SPCD
(ELECTRICAL REPAIR) November 7
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DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 1 of

SPCD QA BODY ELECTRICAL SPCD SPCD 159
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3. Diagnostic symptoms are analyzed using troubleshooting guide and
those most appropriate to the circumstances are selected
4. Hazards associated with the work are identified and risks are managed
5. Tools, equipment, and materials are selected and checked for
serviceability
6. Defective and damaged tools and equipment are reported following
workplace procedures
7. Availability of materials are checked and reported following workplace
procedures
CONDITION:
Student/trainees must be provided with the following:
Equipment:
• Operational Vehicle
• Battery charger
• Battery load tester
Tools/Manuals:
• PPEs
- Face mask
- Face shield*
- Goggles
- Gloves
- Coverall suits
- Safety shoes
• Contact cleaner
• Penetrating oil
• Sand paper
• Electrical tape
• Shrinkable tube Fuse for bulbs
• Fusible link for battery
• Soldering lead
• Soldering paste
• Bulbs – (12 volts) Double contact
• Rags
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• Shrinkable tube Fuse for bulbs
• Bulbs – (12 volts) Single Contact
• Headlight bulb
• Peanut bulb
• Fuses - 7.5 amph - 10 amph - 15 amph - 20 amph - 30 amph
• Relays (30-60 Amp) 12 volts
• Switches - Toggle switch (6 terminal) - Push pull switch - Push
button switch
• Eye terminal
• Female terminal
• Male Terminal
Personal Protective Equipment:
• Face mask
• Face shield
• Goggles
• Gloves
• Coverall suits
• Safety shoes
METHODOLOGIES
• Self-paced instruction
• Film viewing
• Direct laboratory experience
• Group discussion
• Industry Immersion
ASSESSMENT METHODS
• Interview
• Written test/exam
• Observation with questioning
• Demonstration with questioning
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LEARNING EXPERIENCES
Learning Outcome # 3 – Repair Body Electrical System

Learning activities Special Instructions
Read information sheet 3.1 – Repair tools, Secure CBLM Module# 1

equipment, and materials Refer to Information Sheet 3.1
Secure CBLM Module# 1

Answer self-check # 3.1 Use self-check 3.1
Check self-check with the answer key Use answer key 3.1
Read information sheet 3.2 – Soldering Secure CBLM Module# 1
Technique Refer to Information Sheet 3.2
Read information sheet 2.3 – Wearing of Secure CBLM Module# 1
PPEs Refer to Information Sheet 3.3
Answer self-check # 3.3 Secure CBLM Module# 1
Use self-check 3.3
Check self-check with the answer key Secure CBLM Module# 1
Use answer key 3.3
Read information sheet 3.4 – Hazards Secure CBLM Module# 1
Associated with the operations Refer to Information Sheet 3.4
Use self-check 3.4
Check self-check with the answer key Secure CBLM Module# 1
Use answer key 3.4
Read Task Sheet # 3.1 Check and Secure CBLM Module# 1
Remove Ignition Switch Use Task Sheet 3.1
Perform Task Sheet 3.1 Secure CBLM Module# 1
Evaluate the output using
performance criteria Checklist 3.1
Read Task Sheet # 3.2 Install Ignition Secure CBLM Module# 1
Switch Use Task Sheet 3.2
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Read Task Sheet # 3.3 Inspect and Secure CBLM Module# 1
Remove Combination Switch Use Task Sheet 3.3
Read Task Sheet # 3.4 Disassemble Secure CBLM Module# 1
Combination Switch Use Task Sheet 3.4
Read Task Sheet # 3.5 Assemble Secure CBLM Module# 1
Read Task Sheet # 3.6 Install Secure CBLM Module# 1
Read Task Sheet # 3.7 Perform Headlight Secure CBLM Module# 1
and taillight Wiring System (Negative Use Task Sheet 3.7
Switching)
and taillight Wiring System (Negative Use Task Sheet 3.8
Switching 2 Relay)
and Taillight Wiring System (Positive Use Task Sheet 3.9
Switching)
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and Taillight Wiring System (Positive Use Task Sheet 3.10
Switching 2 Relay)
Read Task Sheet # 3.11 Perform Turn Secure CBLM Module# 1
Signal and Hazard Warning Wiring Use Task Sheet 3.11
System
System (Positive Switching 2 Relay)
System (Negative Switching 2 Relay)
Read Task Sheet # 3.14 Remove and Secure CBLM Module# 1
Install Hazard Warning Switch Use Task Sheet 3.14
Read Task Sheet # 3.15 Perform Brake Secure CBLM Module# 1
Warning Wiring System (Negative Use Task Sheet 3.15
Switching)
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Read Task Sheet # 3.16 Perform Brake Secure CBLM Module# 1
Warning Wiring System (Positive Use Task Sheet 3.16
Switching)
Install Stop Light Switch Use Task Sheet 3.17
Read Task Sheet # 3.18 Perform Reverse Secure CBLM Module# 1
Light Wiring System Use Task Sheet 3.18
Install of Back Up Light Switch Use Task Sheet 3.19
Install of Back Up Light Bulb Use Task Sheet 3.20
Read Task Sheet # 3.21 Perform Horn Secure CBLM Module# 1
Wiring Circuit Use Task Sheet 3.21
Install Horn Use Task Sheet 3.22
Install Horn Switch Use Task Sheet 3.23
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Read Task Sheet # 3.24 Perform Dome Secure CBLM Module# 1
Light Circuit Use Task Sheet 3.24
Install of Dome Light Bulb Use Task Sheet 3.25
Install of Dome Light Switch Use Task Sheet 3.26
Install of Door Switch Use Task Sheet 3.27
Read Task Sheet # 3.28 Removal and Secure CBLM Module# 1
Inspection of Fuel Gauge Use Task Sheet 3.28
Read information sheet 3.5 – Post-Repair Secure CBLM Module# 1
Testing Refer to Information Sheet 3.5

Read information sheet 3.6 – 5 S Secure CBLM Module# 1
Refer to Information Sheet 3.6
Use self-check 3.6
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Read information sheet 3.7 – 3 Rs Secure CBLM Module# 1
Refer to Information Sheet 3.7
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INFORMATION SHEET # 3.1
REPAIR TOOLS, EUIPMENT AND MATERIALS
Required Tools
• Diagonal Cutters
• Wire Strippers
• Razor Blade
• Wire Crimpers
• Electrical Tape
• Soldering Equipment
• Electrical Measurement Device
1. Diagonal Cutters
I use diagonal cutters often—

from cutting the end of cable ties flush
to cutting wire. What’s most
important to me is that they fit my
hand comfortably—not too big and
not too small. Three common sizes are
shown in the photo below, and all are
available from Sears. I prefer the size
in the middle. You may already own at
least one pair of these.
2. Wire Strippers
This is probably the most personal tool I own. Ask any five mechanics what
they prefer for stripping the insulation off of wires and you’ll likely see five different
tools. Not that I recommend this, but I’ve even seen wires stripped with a cigarette
lighter! Shown are the most common types; I prefer the ones on the lower right-hand
side.
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DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 10

SPCD QA BODY ELECTRICAL SPCD SPCD of 159
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3. Razor Blades
Now this is a trick that saves you time and effort trying to remove insulation from
larger gauge wire. Since wire strippers for 8 AWG and larger wire really don’t exist,
I always use a razor blade to:
• Score around the insulation of the wire, being careful not to cut too deep.
• Run from the score to the end of the wire lengthwise—no worries on going too
deep this way, as the blade are parallel with the wire strands.
• Tear the insulation off by hand—if you scored it deep enough, it tears perfectly,
right at the score.
4. Wire Crimpers
A crimping tool is any tool that is designed to “crimp” a connector onto the
end of a length of wire. There are numerous offerings in the marketplace. Buy the
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right pair of crimpers for the job—that one-size-fits-all pair won’t work well for
crimping a 4-gauge ring terminal on the end of the charge lead from your high-
output alternator. As a result, wire crimping tools are readily available to crimp
connectors on wiring up to 4/0 AWG—really big stuff!
Ironically, the least effective kind of crimpers is also the most commonly found
in tool boxes across the nation. Those are the “squeeze” kind that has crimpers, wire
cutters, and bolt cutters all built into a single tool. And, just as you’d expect, none
of them work very well.
5. Electrical Tape
A tool you say? You bet! In my

opinion, this is one of the most important
tools in your tool box. I’ve used Scotch
Super 33+ Vinyl Electrical Tape for more
than twenty years now and I’ve never had a
problem with it—not one single problem.
It’s very pliable, stretchy, easy to tear, and
it sticks! I only recommend one kind of
electrical tape.
Here’s an excellent tip when it comes

to taping: Be sure that your hands are clean of dirt, oils, food, etc. As you invariably
make contact with the sticky side of the tape in the process, clean hands help ensure
that the tape sticks as it was intended to.
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6. Soldering Equipment
Note that I am not listing soldering equipment as an option, as you really

should have at the very least a soldering iron and a roll of rosin core solder in your
tool box. The fact of the matter is that soldering is easy, and how to do it correctly is
covered in the next chapter.
One of the oldest wives’ tales is that soldering has no place in an automobile because
the connections are subjected to vibrations. This is simply nonsense. In fact, a
properly soldered connection likely outlasts the vehicle. In addition, I’ve seen
thousands of problems from mechanical connections of all types—crimp connectors,
Scotchlok connectors, and T-Taps are the most common. And guess what? In 99
percent of the cases, these were improperly chosen or installed to begin with.
Today, there are many different types of soldering equipment available. Many
companies offer butane powered soldering irons. As they do not require electricity,
they are totally portable and can be used anywhere. To be properly equipped for any
automotive soldering job, consider purchasing:
1. Soldering Iron—it should have at least a 25-watt capability for soldering

wiring up to 14-gauge or so.
2. Soldering Gun—this should have at least a 150-watt capability for

soldering wiring up to 10-gauge or so.
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3. Propane or MAPP Gas Torch—this solders connectors on the end of the
big stuff.
Electrical Measurement Device
This is a must-have for any do-it-yourself. Prices, even on DMMs, are

affordable for almost everyone. At the very least, buy a computer-safe test light, but
understand that its light typically illuminates between 10 volts and 16 volts—so at
best it’s just a shot in the dark. Nod if you’ve actually got a meter of some type
lurking in the bottom of your tool box but never use it…you are not alone. Soon, this
will be as important a tool to you as it is to me.
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The Test Light
As I mentioned in the Chapter 1, old-school incandescent test lights have no

place in the modern auto-mobile because they have very low impedance. I won’t even
check fuses with them—just too many horror stories that resulted in someone
spending their hard-earned money to fix a problem that could have been easily
avoided.
Detecting Voltage
This is simple enough and is the single most common use for a test light—you
need to locate a source of power to power something up or need to verify the presence
of voltage to be sure something is working properly. Just follow these steps:
Step 1:
Connect the clip of the test light to chassis ground.
Step 2:
Touch the tip of the test light to the connection point in question; in this case I’ve
connected it to the headlight connector.
Step 3:
Turn on the circuit to be measured; the test light lights, indicating the presence of
voltage.
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Another problem with a test light is that you really can’t tell much other than
the presence of voltage or ground or detection of current flow; you certainly cannot
equate the brightness of the bulb to an actual figure. You need to know how to use
one.
Detecting Ground
Let’s say that you wanted to find a suitable place to ground an aftermarket
device or electronic component. You would use this procedure to determine if the
chosen spot has ground present or not:
Step 1:
Connect the clip to 12 volts.
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Step 2:
Touch the tip to the proposed grounding spot of the vehicle’s chassis.
Step 3:
If the test light lights, the spot provides ground, if not continue
probing, until you find a spot that causes the test light to light.
Detecting Current
I know this one sound kind of silly, but for years’ mechanics have used test
lights to track down drains on the battery. Here’s how to do it. Since the Olds has
dual batteries, I’ve disconnected the front one to simplify the explanation. In
addition, it doesn’t have any low current items, such as under-dash lighting or a
glove box light, so I’ve connected a small light bulb to the circuit breaker next to the
batteries for this example.
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Step 1:
Be sure all accessories in the vehicle are turned off, especially the ignition switch!
The bulb within the test light can’t pass much current through it—try to pass too
much and it will burn out.
Step 2:
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Step 3:
Disconnect the positive battery terminal.
Step 4:
Re-connect the negative battery terminal.
Step 5:
Connect the clip of the test light to the positive battery post.
Step 6:
Connect the tip of the test light to the positive battery clamp—notice that the bulb
in the test light is illuminated slightly—this indicates current flowing through the
test light.
Step 7:
Disconnecting the small light bulb causes the light to go out entirely which
eliminated the source of the current draw—if only it were that easy!
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The Digital Multi-Meter
I like a DMM because it has high internal

impedance, typically around 10MΩ, which makes it
computer safe. In addition, the numeric display
takes the guesswork out of your measurements. You
know exactly what you’re dealing with, not an
approximate.
Detecting Voltage and Ground
Step 1:
Connect the red clip to +12 VDC and the black clip to ground.
Step 2:
Touch the tip of the computer-safe test light to the headlight connector—notice the
green LED is illuminated, indicating the presence of ground as the headlights are off
(the light is detecting ground through the filament of the passenger side headlight
to the chassis, as both headlights are wired in parallel).
Step 3:
Turn on the headlight switch, the red light is illuminated, which indicates the
presence of voltage.
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DMM Basic Functionality
A DMM is quite a marvel, especially the nicer ones. Quite simply, it can
measure voltage, resistance, and current. Personally, I’ve had my Fluke 87 since
1992, and it’s a tool that I rely on often. While it wasn’t an inexpensive investment,
it’s certainly paid for itself on many an occasion. Technology in DMMs has come a
long way since then, and the current model Fluke 115 has many of the features that
were once only available in more expensive meters, at a much lower price. A really
nice DMM, like the Fluke 115, can be had nowadays for less than $200 and can be
obtained locally at most Sears tool departments.
Be sure the DMM you select can measure current, as some manufacturers
offer some really nice meters that do not. This is easy to tell because the selector
switch lacks an A or ma setting. Furthermore, you should select a DMM that can
measure at least 10 amps of current safely, or it really won’t do you much good for
troubleshooting current draw problems. No need to get carried away here as you’ll
not be using your DMM to measure how much current the starter motor on your
big-block Chevy draws on a cold winter day. (Although, if you did need to know that,
a clamp-on style Ammeter is the ideal tool for that job.)
Before using your new DMM, I have a few cautions:
• Always be sure that the probes are in the correct position given what you’re
trying to measure. Measuring current is the only time the Red Probe is
connected to the ma or a terminal!
• Familiarize yourself with the type of fusing your meter has. Most DMMs have
an internal fuse (or two) that you can’t find on a Sunday at your corner grocery
store. It will pay off in spades to have spares on hand—trust me, you’ll need
them when you least expect it.
• Never loan your DMM to a buddy. Why? Simple—they don’t know how to use it
anyhow. Anyone that knows how to use a DMM owns one. They’ll invariably put
the probes in the wrong spots and blow the internal fuse(s)—unbeknownst to
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them—and return it to you that way. You’ll find out when you use it next…on
Sunday.
Using a DMM
Selector Switch: Right smack dab in the

middle of any DMM is a switch or dial that allows
you to set it according to the measurement you are
taking. Set it incorrectly, and you could damage
the circuit you’re measuring or even the meter
itself, although this is quite uncommon. In most
cases, the settings are not written out, but rather
abbreviated. The side-bar on pages 26 to 32
illustrates the meaning of the abbreviations on my
Fluke 87 DMM. This meter is used throughout the
book, as it is still quite current in looks and
functionality when compared to meters in the
marketplace today.
Range Switch: Some inexpensive DMMs combine the selector switch and range
switch into a single switch with numerous setting locations. They are typically
labelled clearly and are self-explanatory.
Most higher-end DMMs have a separate range button that allows you to
manually adjust the range. As pictured, the range button in the upper row of buttons
on the Fluke 87 allows for that. Most premium meters also have auto-ranging
capability, as does the Fluke 87. Whether the meter does it automatically or you do
it manually, setting the range is designed to maximize the display reading
corresponding to the measurement being taken. Equally important is the accuracy
of the measurement you’re taking—do you need to know what you’re measuring to
the hundredth of a volt. No problem.
The Fluke 87, like best DMMs, has four-digit readout. The range can be set
manually as follows for taking voltage measurements. This is how the display looks
as you change the range (by pressing the range button).
• 0.000—Max range of 9 volts, with maximum accuracy of 999 thousandths of a

volt.
• 00.00—Max range of 99 volts, with maximum accuracy of 99 hundredths of a
volt.
• 000.0—Max range of 999 volts, with maximum accuracy of 9 tenths of a volt.
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• 0000—Max range of 9999 volts with no further accuracy —Note that the meter
is clearly labelled “1000V MAX.”
In most cases, I set the meter for auto-range. This is the default mode when
turning on most DMMs. If you’re taking a measurement that exceeds the auto-range
setting with this meter, the display typically reads OL—this means overload and is
an indication that you need to manually range UP the DMM. (I’ve seen some that
read OUCH—same difference.) This does not damage the meter—no worries if you
see this!
Note that you should not attempt to make resistance measurements with a
DMM on live circuits. If you do so by accident, most DMMs are internally protected
from this, but this is a good rule to live by.
Probe Location: As I mentioned earlier, it is extremely important to have your

probes in the correct location given what you’re measuring. Even though you have
the legend to refer to, I’m going to go over this just so that you’re sure. Following are
the four locations on the Fluke 87 and what they mean.
• A—amps
• ma a—milliamps, micro amps
• COM—common
• VΩ—volt ohm
OK, now the black probe is always in the black COM location, but what about
the red one? It can go in any of the other three locations and they are all red. Do not
let this confuse you! This is how to deter-mine this:
• A—Red probe goes here when measuring current of 10 amps or less. (Note
that the meter says 10A MAX FUSED between this location and the COM
This means that you can safely measure 10 amps of current, and the meter is
internally fused to protect it from more than that.)
VΩ—Red probe goes here when measuring voltage or resistance (Note that the
meter says 1000V MAX between this location and the COM. This means that you
can safely measure 1,000 Volts without risk of damage to the meter. You shouldn’t
have to worry about exceeding that in your’32 Ford.)
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Measuring Voltage
Now that you know the basics of how a DMM ticks, let’s put it to use by
tackling the same three examples from the test light section with our DMM.
(Please note that the labelling of your meter may be slightly different, but the
functionality is the same.)
Step 1:
Be sure the probes are inserted as follows:

a) Red probe in VΩ
b) Black probe in COM
Step 2:
Turn the Selector on your DMM to read continuity—

typically labelled with the Ohm symbol or Ω.
Step 3:
Connect the black probe to the negative battery

terminal.
Step 4:
Use the red probe to find a low-resistance connection point,

anything that reads less than 10 ohms is fine for any low-
current device (more on this later).
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A more common use of a DMM is measuring continuity when troubleshooting an
inoperative circuit. This is explained in Chapter 7.
Measuring Current
This is the reason to own a DMM, and it dramatically helps you troubleshoot current
draw problems quickly and easily without guess-work. I mean, who can really tell
how much current is being passed through a test light given how bright it is? I know
I can’t.
Step 1:
Be sure all accessories in the vehicle are turned off, especially the ignition switch,
so that you don’t risk the chance of blowing the internal fuse within your DMM.
Step 2:
Disconnect the battery terminals as I outlined earlier and re-connect the negative
terminal. (Note: I’ve re-connected my small light bulb.)
Step 3:
Be sure the probes are inserted as follows:
1. Red probe in A
2. Black probe in COM
Step 4:
Turn the selector on your DMM to read current—typically labeled as A. (Note: If your
DMM has two current scales, start with the A scale so that you don’t accidentally
blow the internal fuse on the scale with higher resolution by allowing too much
current to flow through it.)
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Step 5:
Connect the red probe to the positive battery post.
Step 6:
Connect the black probe to the positive battery terminal.
Step 7:
Observe the reading on the DMM.
Note that this reading is well below .4 amps, which is 400mA. Therefore, I can
change the selector to the mA scale on my DMM for the higher resolution setting.
Additionally, I also have to move the red probe to mA because my meter has a
purpose-built location for this scale. When measuring currents below 400mA, this
setting is more accurate and gives the most accurate measurement possible with the
Fluke 87. Again, this is spot on and not a guess—it is not possible to obtain such
information with a test light.
Incidentally, you could then use this information to determine how long this
draw takes to drain the battery; you only need to know the actual current draw and
the amp hour (AH) rating of the battery to compute this. See the sidebar “Amp Hour
Rating” for more details.
At this point you already know far more than any of your fellow car buddies
in regards to electrical measuring tools. Continue on and you’ll be able to charge
them for your services!
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Measuring Voltage Drops: Just as you can measure voltage, you can measure
voltage drops. Actually, the practice of measuring voltage drops is measuring voltage
across a component in a circuit. Recall, back in Chapter 1, when you learned about
Kirchhoff’s Law and Series Circuits (Fig. 1-7).
If this circuit really existed, and you were to take your DMM and measure
voltage across any of the lamps, you would measure the voltage dropped through
it—in this case 3 volts. Now, what if you really did need to determine why the starter
motor on your big-block Chevy was sluggish, you’ve verified the solenoid trigger wire
is not the problem, and you didn’t have a DC clamp meter (more on this soon) on
hand? Before pulling the starter and taking it to the store for testing, you can
determine this the way most mechanics would. That way is to measure the voltage
drop across the various components in the circuit to determine if the problem isn’t
really the starter motor after all.
So what are those components? Since the starter circuit in most vehicles is
incredibly simple, assume that it has the following components to it:
• Starter motor.
• Solenoid on motor excited by ignition switch in the start position.
• Length of cable between the battery (+) and starter motor.
• Length of cable between the battery (-) and the engine block.
Starter mounted to the engine block
Figure 2-1 is a diagram of such a circuit:
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Finding Voltage Drops
Here’s how you determine the problem:
(Note: Probe locations and selector switch settings are the same as for measuring
DC voltage.)
Step 1:
Turn the headlights on for 30 seconds to 1 minute to dissipate any surface charge
the battery might have on it.
Step 2:
Measure the voltage across the battery—for the sake of this example, let’s say that
was 12.6 VDC.
Step 3:
Disable the vehicle’s ignition circuit—disconnect power to the coil or, better yet,
disconnect the coil wire to the distributor.
Step 4:
Measure the voltage between the case of the starter motor and its (+) input terminal
(the big wire!) while a helper cranks the motor—let’s say that you measured 10.2
VDC.Now that you’ve verified a voltage drop of 2.4 VDC, you need to determine the
source of the voltage drop. Obviously, the starter pulls a bunch of current—how
much exactly, is unsure. This explains some of the voltage drop, but let’s determine
if we have a high-resistance cable or connection (or both) contributing to our
problem. Figures 2-2 and 2-3 show how to do it:
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First, measure the voltage between the positive battery terminal and the
starter motor (+) input terminal as shown while a helper cranks the motor (A).
Next, measure the voltage between the negative battery terminal and the case
of the starter motor—let’s say you measured 1.8 volts (B).
The first place to look is the return path, as 1.8 volts seems quite high. Closely
inspect the connection between the battery negative and the engine block because
this is the return path for the starter motor in most vehicles on the road. (Obviously,
you could also measure the voltage drop between the case of the starter motor and
the battery (-) connection to the engine block and the voltage drop from that point
to the battery (-) terminal to further narrow your search.) What you’re looking for is
evidence of resistance:
• Is the connection to the engine block tight?

• Has rust formed between the ring terminal and connection point?
• Has a star washer been used to ensure a good solid trouble-free connection?
• How is the integrity of the connection between the ring terminal and the wire
itself?
• How is the integrity of the connection between the battery terminal and the wire
itself?
• Is this connection tight?
• Is the wire corroded or oxidized at either end? (You will probably have to pull
the insulation back from the connector or slit it with a razor blade to inspect it.)
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If you find evidence of any of the above, make the appropriate repairs. This
should restore the low resistance return path for the starter. Keep in mind, a
complete negative battery cable assembly costs less than $10 at your local auto parts
store. If this is your problem, you need to inspect the integrity of the other ground
wires because they may have been damaged due to the starter seeking ground
through them in the event that they offered a lower resistance return path to the
battery negative. They are:
• Battery negative to chassis (typically 10–gauge or larger wire).

• Engine block or bell housing to firewall (typically a braided strap)—there can be
many such straps from the engine block to the chassis and firewall in newer
vehicles.
In some cases, I’ve seen one of these snapped in half from excessive current
flowing through it from the above scenario. Although I’ve never personally seen it,
I’ve heard stories of throttle cables or transmission kick-down cables burned in half
or melted from exactly this.
This really is the only way to diagnose such problems. Even if you did know the
current draw of your starter motor at 12 volts, it wouldn’t do you much good, as only
10.2 volts is present at the starter. Recall, voltage is that which causes current to
flow. When voltage is compromised, current flow is reduced.
Grounding problems can cause all kinds of maladies, and you can troubleshoot
these issues the same way with a DMM. One accessory exhibiting erratic behavior
when other accessories are operated is a tell-tale sign of a grounding problem. Using
your DMM to measure voltage drops helps you to easily determine the source of even
the most difficult of grounding problems. Again, this is something you simply cannot
do with a test light.
Advanced Uses of a DMM
Now that the basics are covered, I’ll show you the value of owning a really nice
meter, such as my Fluke 87 for example. (At the time of the writing of this book,
Fluke offers an updated version of this meter, the Fluke 87V.) Some of the additional
functionality the really nice meters offer are:
• Making voltage and current measurements over time—minimums, maximums,

and averages.
• Audible continuity checker.
• Measuring very high currents—optional accessory required.
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• Diode checker.
• Capacitance checker.
• Measuring A/C frequency.
• Uploading measurements to a PC.
• Measuring temperature.
Obviously, the sky is the limit when it comes to what’s available today, and I
didn’t even cover all the additional features that a combination scope (oscilloscope)
meter offers! As usual, I’m going to stick to the applications that apply to typical
automotive use.
Making Voltage and Current Measurements over Time: Since the idea is the
same for both voltage and current, I’ll just provide a single example. Let’s say that I
wanted to know the voltage drop caused when both of the 16-inch cooling fans in
my Cutlass kick on. Even though they are wired with 10-gauge wiring, these fans
consume so much current on turn on, they still cause the analog voltmeter on the
dash to bounce radically for a split second. Although this causes no real harm (other
than possibly pitting the contacts in the relays over time) it makes for an excellent
example of how to record this minimum voltage. It also happens so quickly; the
naked eye can’t see the actual voltage drop on the dash-mounted voltmeter. Let’s
measure it.
Before starting, note that some DMMs have a MIN/MAX button that allows you
to get into this mode. If this is not clearly labelled, you may have to refer to the
manual of your DMM to see how to enter and use this mode.
Making Time Measurements
Make sure probe locations and selector switch settings are the same for measuring
DC voltage.
Step 1:
Connect the red probe to the source of power for fans—not the wiring to the fans
themselves.
Step 2:
Connect the black probe to the chassis of the vehicle.
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Step 3:
Start the vehicle.
Step 4:
The DMM should display a reading in excess of 13.0 VDC at this point.
Step 5:
Press the MIN/MAX button to begin the recording process. (The Fluke 87 can
log data over a time span of up to 36 hours!)
Step 6:
Wait for the vehicle to get to operating temperature and for the fans to kick on
immediately after the fans kick on, press and release the MIN/MAX button to
stop the recording process.
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Step 7:
Press the MIN/MAX button once to get to the MIN voltage

recorded—the minimum voltage that occurred when the fans
kicked on is displayed.
Audible Continuity Checker: This feature can be very handy when you’re
diagnosing an open circuit and you cannot easily see the DMM’s display. Maybe your
head is buried up in the dash or you have to troubleshoot an open circuit problem
that spans the length of the vehicle. In this case, you probably have to extend one
of the meter’s probes. I have a pre-made 10-gauge wire that is terminated with
alligators on both ends for just this reason. Simply clip one end to the black probe
tip and you now have a very long black lead:
The mechanics of this are the same as outlined earlier in the chapter, but the
meter emits a beep on detection of continuity. Imagine how handy this would be if
you were trying to diagnose a problem with an inoperative tail light and the cause of
it was a broken connection in the driver-side kick panel area. If you didn’t know how
to use a DMM to track this problem down, you could burn up an afternoon or even
an entire day looking for the cause. Worse yet, you might not even find it.
Here’s how you can go about it, the quick way:
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• Be sure the circuit was turned off.
• Place the DMM in the trunk of the vehicle.
• Be sure the probes are inserted as follows: Red probe in VΩ; Black probe in
COM.
• Turn the Selector on your DMM to measure continuity—typically labelled with
the Ohm symbol or Ω.
• Connect the red probe to the power lead for the inoperative tail light
• Enable the audible continuity function.
• Probe with the black probe into the same color wire in the tail light harness,
slowly working your way toward the front of the vehicle.
As long as you have continuity, the meter beeps with every step. It eventually
gets to the point where the DMM no longer beeps when you probe the wire. This
would pinpoint the source of the open connection between the current probing spot
and the prior one, thereby greatly reducing the time necessary to track down this
problem.
Measuring Very High Currents: Using a device called a Hall Effect current clamp
is the simplest way to do this. Readily available for most of the premium DMMs, it
allows you to measure DC current up to 1,000 amps.
Using Current Clamps
This example uses the Fluke Model i410 current clamp to determine how much
current the starter motor in my Mustang consumes at start up:
Step 1:
Plug the clamp meter into the COM and VΩ terminals.
Step 2:
Turn the Selector on your DMM to the DC mV scale.
Step 3:
Power the current clamp on and zero the reading via the calibration dial.
Step 4:
Place the clamp around the power wire that goes directly from the battery (+) to the
starter motor—be careful not to allow any other power wire to be within the jaws of
the current clamp or this could skew the reading.
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Step 5:
Have a helper start the vehicle, being sure that your DMM and wiring to the current
clamp are out of the way of moving parts.
A Hall Effect current clamp is no meagre investment. Although the above

example was a quick and easy way to determine the maximum current draw of the
starter motor, in this case 290.5 amps, you are able to discern more information
about the overall state of the starting system by measuring voltage drops between
the starter motor and battery as outlined previously. That being said, a current
clamp allows you to quickly and easily measure the current draw of any accessory
in the vehicle up to its current rating—and without having to disconnect it and place
your meter in series with said accessory! Fluke claims the i410 current clamp is
accurate from 1 amp to 400 amps.
Diode Checker: Diodes can be found in numerous locations in the modern

vehicle. Most commonly, they are used in charging systems. The diode checker
function of a DMM allows you to quickly determine if a diode is good or bad, but the
diode has to be removed from the circuit to do so. This function Congratulations—
you’re now the car guy who knows how to use a DMM! As you get more comfortable
using the DMM, you’ll find more uses for it.
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Self-Check # 3.1
Direction: Answer the Following questions.
1. __________ is any tool that is designed to “crimp” a connector onto the end of a
length of wire.
2. __________ is probably the most personal tool I own. Ask any five mechanics what
they prefer for stripping the insulation off of wires and you’ll likely see five different
tools. Not that I recommend this, but I’ve even seen wires stripped with a cigarette
lighter! Shown are the most common types; I prefer the ones on the lower right-hand
side.
3. __________ cutting the end of cable ties flush to cutting wire. What’s most
important to me is that they fit my hand comfortably—not too big and not too small.
4. __________ it should have at least a 25-watt capability for soldering wiring up to

14-gauge or so.
5. __________ this should have at least a 150-watt capability for soldering wiring up
to 10-gauge or so.
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Answer Key # 3.1
1. Wire Crimpers
2. Wire Strippers
3. Diagonal Cutters
4. Soldering Iron
5. Soldering Gun
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SOLDERING TECHNIQUE
I. Soldering Concepts
A. Solder is used to hold two (or more) conductors in electrical contact with each
other.
B. Solder is not used to make the electrical contact.
C. Solder is not used to provide the main mechanical support for a joint.
D. Solder is used to encapsulate a joint, prevent oxidation of the joint, and provide
minor mechanical support for a connection.
II. Soldering Irons and Accessories
A. Soldering Iron Types
1. Temperature-controlled iron. A soldering iron with

electronic temperature control is highly recommended.
Irons without temperature control can reach temperatures
that are high enough to irreversibly damage the tips. Since
temperature is not proportional to wattage with this type of
iron, the wattage rating is relatively unimportant. A higher
wattage iron results in a faster temperature recovery time
between soldering operations (40 W to 60 W units seem to
work well). See Figure 1.
2. Non-temperature-controlled iron. A low wattage (10 W to 25

W) pencil-type (not gun-type) can be used but is not
recommended. This type of iron must be unplugged when
not in use to save the tips. The temperature is proportional
to wattage and most of these types of soldering irons will
reach temperatures that can destroy tips quickly.
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3. Modified, non-temperature-controlled iron. A 10 W to 40 W
pencil-type irons can be operated from a variance to limit
the wattage (and therefore the temperature) and is a
reasonable substitute for a temperature-controlled iron.
However, a variance can cost more than a temperature
controlled station and will yield less satisfactory results!
B. Sponge.
A sponge is required for keeping tips clean for best heat transfer. A clean
soldering iron tip is one of the most important steps towards producing good solder
joints. Most soldering stations come with sponges and sponge holders.
C. Tips. Currently, most tips sold for electronics work are iron-clad
copper and have long life spans. Iron-clad tips cannot be filed or
sanded when they become oxidized; they must be replaced. Many
tip shapes are available, but miniature needle or chisel point tips
are best for most work. The tip shape should be chosen to provide
the highest contact surface area for best heat conduction.
Minimizing the shank length can increase the heat transfer from
the iron (heater) to the tip. Copper tips can still be purchased but
are not recommended because of their short life span and poor
wetting properties.
III. Solder and Flux
A. Flux
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1. Flux is used to prepare the surfaces of the conductors prior to soldering.
Flux removes oxidation from the conductors and maintains oxide-free
surfaces at elevated temperature during the soldering process. This allows
all surfaces to “wet” properly.
2. the most common flux used in hand soldering of electronic components
is rosin, a combination of mild organic acids extracted from pine trees
(some manufacturers use synthetic compounds).
3. Although fluxes can be obtained in liquid or paste form, they are typically
contained in solders (rosin core) used for hand assembly of electronics.
Fluxes labelled as “Acid” are strong acids (as opposed to the mild rosins)
and should never be used for electronics assembly.
B. Solder
1. Rosin core. 60/40 Sn/Pb (M.P. 361-376°F) and 63/37 Sn/Pb (M.P.
361°F) solders are the most common types used for electronics
assembly. These solders are available in various diameters and small
diameters are most appropriate for small electronics work (0.02” - 0.05”
dia. is recommended). See Figure 2.
2. Lead-free. Lead-free solders are used as more environmental-friendly

substitutes for leaded solder, but they are typically not as easy to use
mainly because of their higher melting point and poorer wetting
properties
3. Silver. Silver solders are typically used for low resistance connections
but they have a higher melting point and are more expensive than
Sn/Pb solders.
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4. Acid-core. NEVER USE ACID CORE SOLDERS FOR ELECTRONICS!
They are intended for plumbing or non-electronics assembly work. The
acid-core flux will cause corrosion of circuitry and can damage
components. See Figure 3.
Other Specialty Solders: a. various melting point eutectics. These specialty

solders are typically used for non-electronics assembly of difficult to construct
mechanical items that must be assembled in a particular sequence. b. Paste
solders. These solders are used in field applications or in specialized
manufacturing applications.
Necessary Tools (See Figure 4)

This is the recommended minimum complement of tools for soldering:
A. Miniature needle-nose pliers

B. Miniature side cutters
C. Wire strippers
D. Solder removal tool (“Solder Sucker”)
E. Water bottle F. Safety glasses
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Figure 4. Tools necessary for proper soldering.
Helpful Tools
A. Lamp with magnifying glass

B. Vise or circuit board holder
C. “Third hand” device
D. Heat sink clips
E. Disordering station
F. Fume absorber
Preparation for Soldering
A. Warm-up. Allow the soldering iron to reach adequate temperature. The

recommended temperature setting is between 600 and 750° F. Some tips
may have recommended operating temperatures that should be observed.
B. Clean Tip. A clean tip promotes heat transfer and helps to prevent
unwanted “solder bridges” from forming. A heavily oxidized tip will make it
impossible to solder properly. The steps to maintain clean tips are as
follows:
1. Moisten sponge.
2. Wipe tip on sponge.
3. “Wet” tip with solder – just enough for a very thin coating.
4. Repeat if necessary to obtain a clean, shiny tip surface. Also, repeat
between each solder operation to maintain a clean tip (See Figure 5).
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Prepare surfaces to be soldered
1. If soldering to a bare copper (non-pertained) printed circuit board (PCB),

the copper should be cleaned using fine steel wool or other fine abrasive.
All oils and remaining abrasives should be removed with light soap and
water followed by an alcohol rinse. The copper should have a bright,
shiny appearance prior to soldering.
2. If soldering to magnet wire or other wire with varnish insulation or with
oxidized surfaces, fine grit sandpaper can be used to prepare the
surfaces to be soldered.
Wire Types
A. Stranded Wire
1. Stranded wire should be used for connections from PCB to panel-

mounted components, or where wires will be flexed.
2. Strip, twist, and lightly “tin” the wire prior to soldering it in place this
prevents fraying of the conductors. Apply solder sparingly since too
much solder may increase the wire diameter so that it becomes too large
or too stiff. A wire prepared in this way may now be hooked around a
terminal or soldered into place on a PCB without fraying.
See Figure 6.
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Solid Wire
1. Solid wire should be used for jumpers on pc boards or for any point-to-
point wiring.
2. Use pre-tinned wire for best results.
3. 22 – 28 ga. solid copper wire is recommended and 22 or 24 ga. is most
common
4. For power connections, refer to wire tables (e.g., CRC Handbook) to
determine the proper gauge to carry the required current.
Coaxial Cable
1. Coax should be used when shielding from noise sources is desired.

2. Preparation Methods: (See Figure 7)
a. Strip the outer insulating sleeve using a sharp knife (e.g., X-Acto
knife).
b. Bend the wire over, split the shield braid and pull the center
conductor through the opening.
c. Strip the center conductor using a knife or wire strippers.
d. Twist and tin the center conductor (if stranded type). e. Twist and tin
the braid.
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IV. Construction and Soldering Techniques
A. Printed Circuit Board (PCB) Soldering and Construction.
1. Component mounting. Components are pushed through from the top

side of the board and the leads are bent slightly to hold the component
while soldering.
See Figure 8.
2. Components are then soldered to the board as shown in Figures 9 and

10.
A. The soldering iron tip should be placed in contact with both the trace
(foil) and the lead. The two should be heated only enough to melt
solder in order to avoid damaging sensitive components and to avoid
delaminating of the PCB traces.
B. Solder is then touched to the area and allowed to flow freely around
the lead and to cover the solder pad. A minimal amount of solder
should be applied. Only enough solder to cover the joint and to form
a smooth fillet should be used.
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C. The iron should be removed after the solder has flowed properly and
wetted all surfaces. The component and the board should not be
moved until the solder has hardened (up to several seconds,
depending on the lead and trace size).
1. Solder joints should be inspected when completed to determine if they

have been properly made:
Qualities of good solder joints (See Figure 11):
1. Shiny surface.
2. Good, smooth fillet.
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a. Qualities of poor solder joints (See Figure 12):
1. Dull or crystallized surfaces. This is an indicator of a

cold solder joint. Cold solder joints result from
moving the components after the soldering iron has
been removed but before the solder has hardened.
Cold solder joints may work at first but will
eventually fail.
2. Air pockets. Air pockets (voids) result from
incomplete wetting of surfaces, allowing air to be in
contact with the connecting metals. This will cause
oxidation of the joint and eventual failure. Blowholes
can occur due to vaporization of moisture on the
surface of the board and exiting through the molten
solder. Boards should be clean and dry prior to
soldering. Ethanol (100%) can be used as a moisture
chaser if boards are wet prior to soldering.
3. Dimples. Dimples in the surface do not always
indicate a serious problem, but they should be
avoided since they are precursors to voids.
4. Floaters. Black spots “floating” in the solder fillet
should be avoided because they indicate
contamination and a potential for failure as in the
case of voids. These black spots usually result from
overheated (burnt) rosin or other contaminants such
as burnt wire insulation. Maintaining a clean tip will
help to avoid these problems
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5. Balls. A solder ball, instead of a fillet, can occur if the
trace was heated but the lead was not (or vice-versa).
This prevents proper wetting of both surfaces and
results in solder being attached to only one surface
(component or trace).
Excess Solder. Excess solder usage can cover up other potential problems
and should be avoided. It can also lead to solder bridges as seen in Figure 12. In
addition, spherical solder joints can result from the application of too much solder.
Point-to-Point Prototyping Techniques
1. Point-to-point techniques are used when the expense of designing a PCB is

prohibitive or as the prelude to the design of a PCB.
2. Point-to-point wiring typically uses either plain perforated board (“per-board”)
or “pad per hole” per -board. Pad per whole boards have a plated-through
eyelet, or pad, at each hole. Pad per hole boards are more expensive, but are
highly recommended because the eyelets ensure that components are
physically held to the board. In either case, wires must be wrapped around
each other or around the pins of components to make connections. Soldering
methods are approximately the same as for PCBs. Examples of each are shown
in Figures 13 and 14.
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Miscellaneous construction techniques
1. Commercially available prototyping boards. Several types of prototyping

PCBs are available for special applications. Figure 15 shows a board intended
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for use with a single DIP IC and Figure 16 shows a board with many small
prototyping boards (“cracker board”) for surface mount components.
2. Flea Clips. “Flea clips” can be used for mounting components that may be
changed frequently during the prototyping stage. They can also be used for
terminals for connecting stranded wires between the board and panel-
mounted components. Flea clips can be seen in each of the point-to-point
examples above and are shown with an insertion tool in Figure 17.
3. Spacers and Chassis. Spacers are usually used to mount circuit boards to
a chassis. Spacers are available in many lengths and materials, and may have
internal or external threads. Figure 18 shows two sizes of aluminum
hexagonal threaded spacers and shows how they are used for mounting a PCB
into a chassis.
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Self-Check # 3.2
Direction: Answer the following questions.
1. __________ is used to prepare the surfaces of the conductors prior to soldering.
2. __________ are used as more environmental-friendly substitutes for leaded solder,

but they are typically not as easy to use mainly because of their higher melting point
and poorer wetting properties.
3. __________ are typically used for low resistance connections but they have a higher
melting point and are more expensive than Sn/Pb solders.
4. _________ should be used for connections from PCB to panel-mounted

components, or where wires will be flexed.
5. __________ Components are pushed through from the top side of the board and
the leads are bent slightly to hold the component while soldering.
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Answer Key # 3.2
1. Flux
2. Lead-free
3. Silver solders
4. Stranded wire
5. Component mounting
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WEARING OF PPEs
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is impelled as a final measure for suitable

safety precautions when working on EHVs. The purpose of this equipment is to
protect individuals who work on or near an installation that presents an electrical
hazard. The equipment used should be appropriate for the type of operation and
voltage level of the installation. The use of improper PPE for a specific hazard can
cause significant danger to the user.
1. Electrical Safety Gloves – these are the first line of defense for contact with
energized components. Most EV manufacturers recommend that insulated
rubber gloves should be worn when working near all high-voltage
components, not just the vehicle batteries. Ordinary latex gloves are not thick
enough and do not provide sufficient protection from the shock hazard.
Types of Electrical Hazards
Electrical shock, arc flash, and arc blast are hazards associated with
working on or in close proximity to energized equipment. All three types can and do
occur in industrial facilities--where low-voltage equipment (generally defined as
under 600 volts AC) is typically in use--as well as in high-voltage electrical utility
plants.
Current that travels through a person's body when it becomes part of an

electrical circuit, not voltage, causes damage to internal and external organs and,
frequently, death. The effect on a person depends on the amount of current
(measured in milliamps or amps) flowing through the body, the current's path
through the body, and the length of time the body remains in the circuit. The effect
can range from mild tingling sensations to heart paralysis and severe burns of tissue
and organs, often resulting in death.
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2. Cotton Undergloves – to be worn underneath electrical safety gloves and
leather gloves, our cotton under gloves not only reduce sweating, they give added
comfort and protection to the PPE user in warm and humid conditions.
3. Leather Overgloves – these are worn over insulating gloves to protect against
mechanical hazards and electrical arcing.
4. Face Shield – this part of equipment is extremely important when working on

high voltage as it protects the eyes from any ‘flash over’ that can occur if an
electrical spark is produced. The face shield provides forehead protection and a
full 180° field of vision.
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5. Dielectric Over boots – to be worn over existing footwear, the dielectric over boot
provides additional protection of insulation, preventing electric shocks should a
vehicle technician encounter contact with a live electric source.
6. Insulating Rubber Apron – Manufactured from 1mm thick orange neoprene with
nylon insert for added strength, this apron is to protect technicians working with
live voltages up to 1000V.
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SELF CHECK # 3.3
Direction: Answer the following question.
1.__________ Manufactured from 1mm thick orange neoprene with nylon insert for
added strength, this apron is to protect technicians working with live voltages up to
1000V.
2.__________ to be worn over existing footwear, the dielectric over boot provides
additional protection of insulation, preventing electric shocks should a vehicle
technician encounter contact with a live electric source.
3.__________ this part of equipment is extremely important when working on high

voltage as it protects the eyes from any ‘flash over’ that can occur if an electrical
spark is produced. The face shield provides forehead protection and a full 180° field
of vision.
4.__________ these are worn over insulating gloves to protect against mechanical
hazards and electrical arcing.
5.__________ to be worn underneath electrical safety gloves and leather gloves, our
cotton under gloves not only reduce sweating, they give added comfort and
protection to the PPE user in warm and humid conditions.
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Answer Key # 3.3
1. Insulating Rubber Apron
2. Dielectric Over boots
3. Face Shield
4. Leather Over gloves
5. Cotton Under gloves
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HAZARDS ASSOCIATED WITH THE OPERATIONS
5 Must-Have Safety Tips for Working with Automotive Electrical Systems Once
You Become an Auto Technician
The ability to work with automotive electrical systems is an important part of

every auto technician’s job. However, it can also be one of the more complex and
risky tasks you will face. The best way for auto technicians to have long, successful
careers in the industry while doing this type of work is to always put safety first.
How is this done? Keep reading for a few tips you can keep in mind along with the
rigorous safety training you will have received in your auto mechanic program.
1. Know the Risks of Electrical Hazards When You Become an Auto Technician.
It is a lot easier to abide by safety standards if you
understand what they are meant to prevent. Electrical
safety is largely in place to prevent an event in which your
body or the body of another person completes an electrical
circuit, which is what leads to electricity-related injuries.
Like water, most metals, and several other materials,
the human body can conduct electricity, which puts us as
at risk. Exposure to electrical currents can result in four
main types of injuries: painful electric shocks, electrical burns, fatal electrocution,
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and falls caused by any of the above. To avoid these nasty results, abiding by
electrical safety principles is a must.
2. Avoid Water and Other Conducting Materials When Working with Electricity.
As you become an auto technician, one factor that
increases the likelihood of you becoming a part of an
electric circuit is contact with conducting materials,
such as water or metal. Never do electrical work with
wet hands, and survey your surroundings for
puddles or unusual moisture before beginning your
work. When working with metal, be sure to use tools
with insulating materials like rubber, as well as
protective and insulated gloves and eyewear, to
avoid accidentally coming into contact with electrical
currents.
3. Graduates of Mechanic Training Programs Know to Disconnect Power Sources.

Once you have a safe environment and the
right tools, make sure you have de-energized
the engine or piece of machinery that you are
working with. De-energizing involves the
obvious step of simply unplugging or turning
off the power source. However, you should also
use a specialized tester in order to make sure
there is no additional electricity flowing
through the circuit before you begin handling
wires.
4. For an Auto Technician, Electrical Safety Is Also Fire Safety.

During your mechanic training program, you
will learn that smoking on the job is incredibly
dangerous, as gasoline and many other fluids
involved in vehicle work and repair are extremely
flammable. While the fire hazard of electrical
work is not nearly as high as with smoking, you
should be similarly cautious when doing
electrical work near flammable materials, as
sparks can fly—
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especially when other electrical safety standards are neglected. Make sure you are
working in a well-ventilated area, and that you know where the fire extinguisher in
your work station is. In the unusual event that something catches aflame, you need
to be ready to act fast and put it out immediately!
5. Do Not Use Devices with Frayed Cords or Wires during Auto Work.
Finally, electrical safety applies not only to the electrical system that you are working
on, but also to the devices you are using. Make sure that you assess the cords on
your equipment for damage, and either repair or discard equipment with exposed
wires. Working with compromised equipment puts you at risk for electrical injury,
but these simple precautions can help you achieve the peace of mind you need to
focus on your work.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Self-Check # 3.4
Direction: Answer the following.
1. What safety tips for working with automotive electrical systems once you
become an auto technician?
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Answer Key # 3.4
1. Know the Risks of Electrical Hazards When You Become an Auto

Technician.
2. Avoid Water and Other Conducting Materials When Working with
Electricity.
3. Graduates of Mechanic Training Programs Know to Disconnect Power
Sources.
4. For an Auto Technician, Electrical Safety Is Also Fire Safety.
5. Do Not Use Devices with Frayed Cords or Wires during Auto Work.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3:1
Title: CHECK AND REMOVE IGNITION SWITCH
Performance Objective:
To check and remove ignition switch
Supplies and Materials:
• Rug
Equipment/Tools /Facilities:
• Combination wrench 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Assessment Method:
Use the Performance Criteria Checklist
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Performance Criteria Checklist for Task Sheet 3.1
Observation checklist
Procedure
YES NO N/A
• CHECK AND REMOVE IGNITION
SWITCH
1. Disconnected the ignition switch harness
2. Checked continuity between ignition

terminals
3. Disconnected negative battery terminal
4. Removed upper and lower Column Cover
5. Removed Ignition key cylinder
6. Removed ignition switch
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.2
Title: INSTALL IGNITION SWITCH
To install ignition switch
• Rug
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
Procedure:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• INSTALL IGNITION SWITCH

1. Installed ignition switch
2. Installed ignition key cylinder
3. Installed upper and lower column cover
4. Connected ignition switch harness
5. Connected negative battery terminal
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.3
Title: INSPECT AND REMOVE COMBINATION SWITCH
To inspect and remove combination switch
• Rug
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
Procedure:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
•INSPECT AND REMOVE COMBINATION SWITCH

1. Removed steering column cover
2. Disconnected combination switch wiring harness

socket (wiring connector)
3. Checked continuity between terminals. (light and

dimmer switch, turn signal and hazard warning
switch, wiper control switch)
4. Removed steering cover
5. Removed steering wheel nut
6. Removed pad and steering wheel
7. Removed upper and lower steering column cover
8. Removed combination switch
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 2.4
Title: DISASSEMBLE COMBINATION SWITCH
To disassemble of combination switch
• Rug
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
Procedure:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
1. REMOVE LIGHT CONTROL SWITCH
(a) Remove two screws and ball set plate from the switch body
(b) Remove the ball and slide out the switch from the switch body with the
spring
2. REMOVE HEADLIGHT DIMMER AND TURN SIGNAL SWITCH
Remove four screws and the switch from the switch body
3. REMOVE WIPER AND WASHER SWITCH
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
4. REMOVE THE WIRING BAND WITH SCREWDRIVER
5. REMOVE THE TERMINALS FROM THE BULKHEAD CONNECTOR
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
•DISASSEMBLE COMBINATION SWITCH

1. Removed Light Control Switch
2. Removed Headlight Dimmer and Turn Signal Switch
3. Removed Wiper and Washer Switch
4. Removed the wiring band with screwdriver
5. Removed the terminals from the bulkhead

connector.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.5
Title: ASSEMBLE COMBINATION SWITCH
To assemble of combination switch
• Rug
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
Procedure:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
1. Install light control switch
a. Install two screws and ball set plate from the switch body
b. Install the ball and slide out the switch from the switch body with the spring
2. Install headlight dimmer and turn signal switch

Install four screws and the switch from the switch body
3. Install wiper and washer switch

Install two screws and switch from the switch body
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• ASSEMBLE COMBINATION SWITCH

1. Light Control Switch
2. Installed wiper and washer
3. Installed headlight dimmer and turn signal switch
4. Installed light control switch
5. Insured that the switch operates smoothly
6. Installed the lighting circuit terminals
7. Installed the turn signal and hazard warning circuit

terminals
8. Installed the front wiper circuit terminals
9. Inserted terminal and make sure that terminal is

not removed
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.6
Title: INSTALL COMBINATION SWITCH
To install combination switch
• Rug
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
Procedure:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
•INSTALL COMBINATION SWITCH

1. Installed the wire harness band and connector
2. Installed the upper and lower steering column cover
3. Aligned auto-cancel mechanism pin and hole
4. Aligned the match marks on main shaft and steering

wheel
5. Checked auto-cancel action
6. Tightened the steering wheel nut
7. Connected the horn terminal
8. Installed the pad set screw facing the back side
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.7
Title: PERFORM HEADLIGHT AND TAILLIGHT WIRING SYSTEM (NEGATIVE
SWITCHING)
To perform headlight and taillight wiring system (negative switching)
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
•PERFORM HEADLIGHT AND TAILLIGHT WIRING

SYSTEM (NEGATIVE SWITCHING)
1. Performed headlight and taillight wiring system
(negative switching)
2. Followed the correct wiring diagram
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.8
Title: PERFORM HEADLIGHT AND TAILLIGHT WIRING SYSTEM (NEGATIVE
SWITCHING 2 RELAY)
To perform headlight and taillight wiring system (negative switching 2
relay)
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A

SYSTEM (NEGATIVE SWITCHING 2 RELAY)
(negative switching 2 relay)
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.9
Title: PERFORM HEADLIGHT AND TAILLIGHT WIRING SYSTEM (POSITIVE
SWITCHING)
To perform headlight and taillight wiring system (positive switching)
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A

SYSTEM (POSITIVE SWITCHING)
(positive switching)
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.10
Title: PERFORM HEADLIGHT AND TAILLIGHT WIRING SYSTEM (POSITIVE
SWITCHING 2 RELAY)
To perform headlight and taillight wiring system (positive switching 2 relay)
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A

SYSTEM (POSITIVE SWITCHING 2 relay)
(positive switching 2 relay)
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 2.11
Title: PERFORM TURN SIGNAL AND HAZARD WARNING WIRING SYSTEM
To perform turn signal and hazard warning wiring system
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
PERFORM TURN SIGNAL AND HAZARD
WARNING WIRING SYSTEM
1. Performed turn signal and hazard warning system
wiring
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.12
(POSITIVE SWITCHING 2 RELAY)
To perform turn signal and hazard warning wiring system (positive switching 2
relay)
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• PERFORM TURN SIGNAL AND HAZARD
WARNING WIRING SYSTEM (POSITIVE
SWITCHING 2 RELAY)
wiring (positive switching 2 relay)
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.13
(NEGATIVE SWITCHING 2 RELAY)
To perform turn signal and hazard warning wiring system (negative
switching 2 relay)
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• PERFORM TURN SIGNAL AND HAZARD

WARNING WIRING SYSTEM (NEGATIVE
SWITCHING 2 RELAY)
wiring (negative switching 2 relay)
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.14
Title: REMOVE AND INSTALL HAZARD WARNING SWITCH
Performance Objective: To remove and install hazard warning switch
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• REMOVE HAZARD WARNING SWITCH

1. Removed meter cluster
2. Removed hazard switch
• INSTALL HAZARD WARNING SWITCH
1. Installed hazard warning switch
2. Installed meter cluster
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.15
Title: PERFORM BRAKE WARNING WIRING SYSTEM (NEGATIVE SWITCHING)
Performance Objective: To perform brake warning wiring system (negative
switching)
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• PERFORM BRAKE WARNING WIRING SYSTEM

(NEGATIVE SWITCHING)
1. Performed brake warning wiring system (negative
switching)
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.16
Title: PERFORM BRAKE WARNING WIRING SYSTEM (POSITIVE SWITCHING)
Performance Objective: To perform brake warning wiring system (negative
switching)
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• PERFORM BRAKE WARNING WIRING SYSTEM

(POSITIVE SWITCHING)
1. Performed brake warning wiring system (Positive
Switching)
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.17
Title: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF STOP LIGHT SWITCH
Performance Objective: To inspect remove and install stop light switch
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• REMOVE STOP LIGHT SWITCH

1. Disconnected battery ground cable
2. Disconnected the connector
3. Loosen the lock nut of the switch
4. Removed the stop light switch
• INSTALLATION OF STOP LIGHT SWITCH
1. Installed stop light switch
2. Tightened lock nut of the switch
3. Connected the connector
4. Checked specified position of the stop light switch
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 2.18
Title: PERFORM REVERSE LIGHT WIRING SYSTEM
Performance Objective: To perform reverse light wiring system
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
•PERFORM REVERSE LIGHT WIRING SYSTEM

1. Performed reverse light wiring system
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.19
Title: REMOVE AND INSTALL OF BACK UP LIGHT SWITCH
Performance Objective: To remove and install back-up light switch
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• REMOVE BACK UP LIGHT SWITCH

2. Disconnected the connectors
3. Removed the switch
• INSTALL BACK UP LIGHT SWITCH
1. Applied liquid gasket to the screw portion of the

switch
2. Installed the switch
3. Connected the connectors
4. Connected the battery ground cable
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.20
Title: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF BACK UP LIGHT BULB
Performance Objective: To remove and install back up light bulb
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• INSTALL BACK UP LIGHT BULB

2. Removed the lens
3. Removed the bulbs
• INSTALL BACK UP LIGHT BULB
1. Installed the bulbs
2. Installed the lens
3. Connected battery ground cable
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.21
Title: PERFORM HORN WIRING CIRCUIT
Performance Objective: To perform horn wiring circuit
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• PERFORM HORN WIRING CIRCUIT

1. Performed horn wiring circuit
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.22
Title: REMOVE AND INSTALL HORN
Performance Objective: To remove and install horn
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• REMOVE HORN
1. Disconnected battery ground terminal
2. Removed bumper
3. Removed horn
• INSTALL HORN
1. Installed horn
2. Installed bumper
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 2.23
Title: REMOVE AND INSTALL HORN SWITCH
Performance Objective: To remove and install horn switch
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• REMOVE HORN SWITCH

1. Disconnected battery ground terminal
2. Removed horn pad
3. Removed steering wheel
4. Removed horn switch
• INSTALL HORN SWITCH
1. Installed horn switch
2. Installed steering wheel
3. Installed horn pad
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.24
Title: PERFORM DOME LIGHT CIRCUIT
Performance Objective: To perform dome light wiring circuit
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation checklist
Procedure
YES NO N/A
•PERFORM DOME LIGHT CIRCUIT

1. Performed dome light circuit
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.25
Title: REMOVE AND INSTALL OF DOME LIGHT BULB
Performance Objective: To remove and install dome light bulb
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
•REMOVE DOME LIGHT BULB

2. Removed lens
3. Removed Bulb
• INSTALL OF DOME LIGHT BULB
1. Install bulb
2. Install lens
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.26
Title: REMOVE AND INSTALL OF DOME LIGHT SWITCH
Performance Objective: To remove and install dome light switch
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
•REMOVE DOME LIGHT SWITCH

2. Removed meter cluster
3. Removed dome light switch
• INSTALL OF DOME LIGHT SWITCH
1. Install dome light switch
2. Install meter cluster
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 2.27
Title: REMOVE AND INSTALL OF DOOR SWITCH
Performance Objective: To remove and install door switch
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
•REMOVE DOOR SWITCH

2. Removed door switch
• INSTALL OF DOOR SWITCH
1. Install door switch
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Task Sheet 3.28
Title: REMOVE AND INSPECT OF FUEL GAUGE
Performance Objective: To remove and inspect fuel gauge
• Rug
• Fuse
• Electrical Type
• Philip screw
• Flat screw
• Long nose plier
• Multi-tester
PROCEDURE:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Assessment Method:
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Observation
Procedure checklist
YES NO N/A
• ON-VEHICLE INSPECTION OF FUEL GAUGE

1. Checked fuel gauge using test light.
2. Measured the resistance between terminals B and

D.
• REMOVAL OF FUEL SENDER GAUGE
1. Removed Rear floor carpet
2. Removed Rear floor wire harness protector
3. Removed connector
4. Remove fuel sender gauge
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
POST-REPAIR TESTING
What is a Post-Repair Inspection?
A post-repair inspection is an evaluation made by someone other than the

person who performed the repairs. The main goals of this process are to ensure that
the car is safe to drive and that it has been returned to its pre-collision condition.
Having someone else perform this task is key to ensuring that nothing is missed.
When is a Post-Repair Inspection Recommended?
We perform this process every single time. It’s just the way we operate here.
However, not every auto body shop does it this way. Post-repair inspections are a
fundamental part of vehicle safety, acting as a second layer of protection for car
owners. In particular, an inspection is advisable if
• It’s necessary to confirm that a car was fixed properly and that it’s safe to
drive.
• You are unsure about the quality of repair work or the parts used in the repair.
• The repair shop seems unwilling to disassemble the vehicle in order to
properly assess collision damage.
• You notice signs that the car is not operating properly or doesn’t look like it
did before the collision and repairs.
• You need to request an appraisal of the diminished value that a car owner is
due.
What is involved in a Post-Repair Inspection?
When you bring your vehicle to be inspected, these are the steps that the auto
body technicians go through in order to verify the quality of the repairs that have
been made.
1. The first step to performing a post-repair is to get a copy of the car

insurance estimate and the auto repair estimate from the shop. During the
inspection, they will compare these with the work that was done.
2. Then, the auto body specialist will assess the quality of the repair work and
replacement parts.
3. Next, they will perform a panel-by-panel inspection to make sure the auto
body parts line up correctly.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
4. Using a paint thickness meter, they will check that the paint job (if needed)
was done well and that the finish is even.
5. The auto body technician will then take off panels and interior carpets to check
repair work that may be hidden. Specific things on his checklist include
checking the welding work, rust protection measures and alignment.
6. If there are any red flags during the previous steps of the inspection, the
technician will recommend a full post-repair inspection. Otherwise, the auto
body shop will let you know that your car has passed inspection.
It’s important to note that car owners are not responsible for covering the expense
of remediating a substandard repair. The auto body shop carrying out the post-
repair inspection will contact the car insurance company. Your insurance is required
to pay for any labor or parts needed to ensure that the car has been fixed to
standard.
Why Should You Be Worried about Car Repairs?
In recent years, car repair chains and insurance referral networks have placed
increasing importance on performing quick repairs and decreasing costs for the
company. For many of these conglomerate businesses, profit is the main priority.
Rushed work and cutting corners – like using aftermarket parts – can, unfortunately,
mean poor or unsafe car repairs. The only consumer safety measure to prevent this
from happening to your car is to request a post-repair inspection.
Look out for companies that offer Direct Repair Programs (DPRs) or which are part
of large preferred insurance networks. To be done properly and ensure the safety of
each care we work on, car repairs can take time. This is one reason why we advise
that car owners trust local, independent and family-owned auto body shops from
the beginning of the collision repair process.
5 e s s e n t i a l s o f a d e t a i l ed p o s t -r e p a i r i ns p e c t ion .
So, it’s time to go pick up your car after a not my fault accident. Look beyond the
appearance, the color match, and a clean vehicle and check each of the following for
peace of mind before driving off:
1. Airbag replacement
Some unscrupulous repair shops can charge your insurance for new airbags and
fail to install them. Knock the center of your steering wheel; if it sounds hollow, the
airbag may be missing. Additionally, if your airbag light is on, it’s time you raise the
alarm and have it checked.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
2. Clipping
This involves welding the used parts of one vehicle on to another car. Remember
that newer cars are made of lightweight but tough materials. Clipping can result in
structural weakness that can be fatal in the event of an accident.
3. Torque
The replacement of suspension parts should be torque according to the
manufacturers’ specifications. If these are not adhered to, the loose assembly may
result in poor handling and performance. You can ask the repair centre about the
procedure they used and compare it to the torque specifications they provide for
your car.
4. Spare parts
Aftermarket and used structural parts may not meet the original manufacturers’
specifications and recommendations. Used or inferior parts can make a significant
difference if the car is involved in another accident. It’s unfortunate that some
insurance companies may require the repair shops to use these parts. You can ask
the repair centre to show you the invoice or receipts of the parts they used to fix
your car.
5. Alignment
A car pulling to one direction can indicate a misaligned uni-body structure or a bent
frame. As a result, the vehicle may not drive straight, or its tyres may wear out
quickly.
Shortcuts in car repairs can cost lives. Thus, it is imperative that you thoroughly
check if the repairs were done according to the manufacturers’ specifications. Not
My Fault can provide you with an accident replacement car while your vehicle is
under repairs. We let you choose a vehicle that is similar to your own so that you do
not drive anything that is far inferior to your car.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Self-Check # 3.5
Direction: Answer the following.
1. What 5 e s s e n t ia l s o f a d e t a il e d p o s t - r e p ai r i n sp ec t i o n ?
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Answer Key # 3.5
1. Airbag Replacement
2. Clipping
3. Torque
4. Spare Parts
5. Alignment
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
5S
5S is a philosophy and a way of organizing and managing the workspace and

work flow with the intent to improve efficiency by eliminating waste, improving flow
and reducing process unreasonableness.
Background on 5S activities
The word “5S (five S)” was generalized in 1980’s in manufacturing sector in
Japan, as Toyota Production System (TPS) became famous in the sector and “5S
activities” were set as one of the bases of TPS.
What 5 S can do?

• Team work improvement through everyone’s participation
• Identify Abnormalities
• Identify wastes and reduce the wastes
1. Overproduction
2. Inventory
3. Waiting
4. Motion
5. Transportation
6. Rework
7. Over processing
• Improve productivities
• Improve safety
If no 5S activities
• Hesitate what to do
• Looking for necessary items
• Making mistake
• Remember what/how to do
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
5S in Japanese/English
5S is literally five abbreviations of Japanese terms with 5 initials of S.
JAPANESE ENGLISH
Seire Sort
Seiton Set
Seiso Shine
Seiketsu Standardize
Sitsuke Sustain
SEIRE “SORT”
➢ Focuses on eliminating unnecessary items from the workplace
➢ Categorize equipment and tool in your working place into the following 3
categories:
1. Necessary
2. Unnecessary
3. May not necessary
➢ This step will also help with the “just in case” attitude.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Example of “Sorting”
• Place “Red tag” for categorization of items to identify unnecessary items.

• Move unnecessary items (broken tools, obsolete jigs and fixtures, scrap and
excess raw material etc.) to central stored area.
• Free up valuable floor space (Space utilization)
• Finding abnormality of equipment and tools (Out of order, missing parts etc.)
SEITON “SET”
➢ “Set” is based on finding efficient and effective storage of necessary items.

➢ Apply “Can see, can take out, and Can return” philosophy.
➢ This will save time and energy to look for something.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Example of “Set”
• Labeling, numbering, zoning for clear identification of storage areas to keep

necessary items
• Set necessary items matching with workflow to minimize unnecessary
movement and transportation time
SEISO “SHINE”
➢ Cleaning up one’s workplace daily so that there is no dust on floors, machines

or equipment.
➢ It will create ownership and build pride in the workers.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Example of “Shining”
➢ Daily sweeping and mopping of floor, bathroom, corridor etc.

➢ Regular cleaning and maintenance of equipment and tools.
➢ Periodical check for changes in equipment and the service area such as: leaks,
vibration, misalignment, breakage etc.
➢ IPC activities such as hand hygiene, waste segregation is also part of shine.
SEIKETSU “STANDARDIZE”
➢ Maintain an environment where S1 to S3 are implemented in the same

manner throughout the organization.
➢ Give opportunities to employees to take active part in the development of these
standards.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Examples of “Standardize”
➢ Work instructions, Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs).

➢ Checklist development and regular usage for SOPs.
➢ Mechanism and format development for ordering supplies, reporting etc.
➢ Color coding for waste segregation.
➢ Standardized common symbols.
SITSUKE “SUSTAIN”
➢ Maintain S1-S4 through discipline, commitment and empowerment.

➢ It focuses on defining a new mindset and a standard in workplace.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Examples of “Sustain”
➢ Regular progress reporting.

➢ Refresher training
➢ Periodical evaluation of 5S activities with proper advices for continuation and
further improvements
➢ Appreciation, recognition and awarding on good 5S activities
➢ Reminder using 5S corner, new letters, good practice sheet etc.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Target of 5S Targets of Five-S include:
✓ Zero changeovers leading to product/ service diversification

✓ Zero defects leading to higher quality
✓ Zero waste leading to lower cost
✓ Zero delays leading to on time delivery
✓ Zero injuries promoting safety
✓ Zero breakdowns bringing better maintenance
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
SELF CHECK # 3.6
Direction: Select the best answer. Encircle the letter of the correct answer.
1, is a philosophy and a way of organizing and managing the workspace and work
flow with the intent to improve efficiency by eliminating waste, improving flow
and reducing process unreasonableness.
a. Sort
b. 5S
c. Seire
d. Seiso
2, It focuses on defining a new mindset and a standard in workplace.

a. Shine
b. Sort
c. Sustain
d. Standardize
3, Focuses on eliminating unnecessary items from the workplace.

a. Shine
b. Set
c. Sort
d. Sustain
4, Equipment, material, and tools can be categorized based on the frequency of

use.
a. Shining
b. Sorting
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
c. Setting
d. Sustaining
5, Finding abnormality of equipment and tools.

a. Setting
b. Sustaining
c. Sorting
d. Shining
6, Use 5S tools for proper organization of items such as labeling, color coding,
numbering and zoning.
a. Set
b. Sorting
c. Sustaining
d. Shining
7, Clean and maintain shop equipment and tools.
a. Sustaining
b. Shining
c. Set
d. Standardize
8, It focuses on defining a new mindset and a standard in work place.
a. Standardize
b. Shine
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
c. Sustain
d. Set
9, Regular cleaning and maintenance of shop equipment and tools.
a. Sorting
b. Standardizing
c. Setting
d. Shining
10, Move unnecessary items (broken tools, obsolete jigs and fixtures, scrap and
excess raw material etc.) to central stored area.
a. Standardizing
b. Sorting
c. Shining
d. Set
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Answer Key # 3.6
1. B
2. C
3. C
4. B
5. C
6. A
7. B
8. C
9. D
10. B
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
5S
The three R's – reduce, reuse and recycle – all help to cut down on the amount
of waste we throw away. They conserve natural resources, landfill space and energy.
Plus, the three R's save land and money communities must use to dispose of waste
in landfills. Sitting a new landfill has become difficult and more expensive due to
environmental regulations and public opposition.
❖ REDUCE: The best way to manage waste is to not produce it. This can be
done by shopping carefully and being aware of a few guidelines:
• Buy products in bulk. Larger, economy-size products or ones in

concentrated form use less packaging and usually cost less per ounce.
• Avoid over-packaged goods, especially ones packed with several materials
such as foil, paper, and plastic. They are difficult to recycle, plus you pay
more for the package.
• Avoid disposable goods, such as paper plates, cups, napkins, razors, and
lighters. Throwaways contribute to the problem, and cost more because
they must be replaced again and again.
• Buy durable goods – ones that are well-built or that carry good warranties.
They will last longer, save money in the long run and save landfill space.
• At work, make two-sided copies whenever possible.
• Maintain central files rather than using several files for individuals.
• Use electronic mail or main bulletin board.
• Use cloth napkins instead of paper napkins.
• Use a dish cloth instead of paper towels.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
❖ REUSE: It makes economic and environmental sense to reuse products.
Sometimes it takes creativity:
• Reuse products for the same purpose. Save paper and plastic bags, and
repair broken appliances, furniture and toys.
• Reuse products in different ways. Use a coffee can to pack a lunch; use
plastic microwave dinner trays as picnic dishes.
• Sell old clothes, appliances, toys, and furniture in garage sales or ads, or
donate them to charities.
• Use reseals able containers rather than plastic wrap.
• Use a ceramic coffee mug instead of paper cups.
• Reuse grocery bags or bring your own cloth bags to the store. Do not take
a bag from the store unless you need one.
❖ RECYCLE: Recycling is a series of steps that takes a used material and

processes, remanufactures, and sells it as a new product. Begin recycling at
home and at work:
• Buy products made from recycled material. Look for the recycling symbol
or ask store managers or salesmen. The recycling symbol means one of two
things – either the product is made of recycled material, or the item can be
recycled. For instance, many plastic containers have a recycling symbol
with a numbered code the identifies what type of plastic resin it is made
from. However, just because the container has this code does not mean it
can be easily recycled locally.
• Check collection centers and curbside pickup services to see what they
accept, and begin collecting those materials. These can include metal cans,
newspapers, paper products, glass, plastics and oil.
• Consider purchasing recycled materials at work when purchasing material
for office supply, office equipment or manufacturing.
• Speak to store managers and ask for products and packaging that help cut
down on waste, such as recycled products and products that are not over
packaged.
• Buy products made from material that is collected for recycling in your
community.
• Use recycled paper for letterhead, copier paper and newsletters.
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
SELF CHECK # 3.7
Direction: Answer the following questions.
1.__________ The best way to manage waste is to not produce it.
2.__________ It makes economic and environmental sense to reuse products.

Sometimes it takes creativity.
3.__________ is a series of steps that takes a used material and processes,

remanufactures, and sells it as a new product.
4. Give at least 1 example of Reduce.
5. What is the reason why 3r’s is important?
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM
Answer Key # 3.7
1. REDUCE
2. REUSE
3. RECYCLE
AUTOMOTIVE Date
NC II 2021

SYSTEM SYSTEM

Unit Diagnose and Repair Body Electrical System Diagnose and Repair Body Electrical System L.O. 3 Repair Body Electrical System

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Unit Diagnose and Repair Body Electrical System Diagnose and Repair Body Electrical System L.O. 3 Repair Body Electrical System

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Unit DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR BODY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Module DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR BODY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

LEARNING OUTCOME #3 REPAIR BODY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

1. Job requirements are determined from workplace instructions

DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 1 of

Student/trainees must be provided with the following:

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Learning Outcome # 3 – Repair Body Electrical System

Read information sheet 3.1 – Repair tools, Secure CBLM Module# 1

Secure CBLM Module# 1

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DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 6 of

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Secure CBLM Module# 1

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I use diagonal cutters often—

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A tool you say? You bet! In my

Here’s an excellent tip when it comes

DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 12

Note that I am not listing soldering equipment as an option, as you really

1. Soldering Iron—it should have at least a 25-watt capability for soldering

2. Soldering Gun—this should have at least a 150-watt capability for

DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 13

Electrical Measurement Device

This is a must-have for any do-it-yourself. Prices, even on DMMs, are

DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 14

As I mentioned in the Chapter 1, old-school incandescent test lights have no

Connect the clip of the test light to chassis ground.

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Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Disconnect the positive battery terminal.

Re-connect the negative battery terminal.

DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 18

I like a DMM because it has high internal

Detecting Voltage and Ground

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Before using your new DMM, I have a few cautions:

DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 20

Selector Switch: Right smack dab in the

• 0.000—Max range of 9 volts, with maximum accuracy of 999 thousandths of a

DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 21

Probe Location: As I mentioned earlier, it is extremely important to have your

DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 22

Be sure the probes are inserted as follows:

Turn the Selector on your DMM to read continuity—

Connect the black probe to the negative battery

Use the red probe to find a low-resistance connection point,

DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 23

Be sure the probes are inserted as follows:

DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 24

Connect the red probe to the positive battery post.

Connect the black probe to the positive battery terminal.

Observe the reading on the DMM.

DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Developed by: Issued by: Page 25

Starter mounted to the engine block

Figure 2-1 is a diagram of such a circuit: