ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS AND MAINTAENACE

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTION & MAINTENANCE C

TC-51 CONE CRUSHER ASSEMBLY LAYOUT

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C-IA MAIN FRAME ASSEMBLY

MAIN FRAME ASSEMBLY

Item Part Description
1 Main Frame Structure
2 Outer Eccentric Bushing
3 Main Frame Cap
4 Socket Head Cap Screw 1- 1/4 “ -7UNCx 4
5 Dowel 1”x 3”
6 Main Frame Gasket
7 Arm Guard
8 Washer
9 Main Frame Pin
10 Lock Washer 16
11 Bolt M16 x 35
12 Lock Washer 32
13 Washer 33
14 Pipe Plug NPT1"
15 Packing (Epoxy Resin)
16 Fulcrumbar
17 Seat Liner
19 Mainframe Liner

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C-IB SOCKET ASSEMBLY

SOCKET ASSEMBLY
Item Part Description
1 Dowel Pin
2 Socket Liner
3 Locking Key
4 Oil Retaining Ring
5 Bushing
6 Support Rubber Pipe
7 Socket Sealing Ring
8 Socket
9 Babbitt
10 Wool Felt Packing 12x12x3500mm
11 Silicon

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
To install the crusher on a concrete foundation or to grout a steel structure to a concrete slab, proceed as
follows.
1. When using epoxy or concrete grout, place the
crusher on hardwood blocks positioned beneath
each of the four (4) corners of the frame
assembly. Wood is used because grout shrinks
when it sets, and the wood will shrink with the
grout.
The blocks should support the crusher
approximately 1" to 1 1/2" (25 to 38mm) for
EPOXY grout and 2" to 2 1/2" (50 to 64mm)
above the top of the concrete foundation to
allow for the proper thickness of
CONCRETE grout.
The surface of the foundation, where the
grouting will be poured, should be left rough
and be carefully cleaned before grouting.
When using concrete grout, this surface
should be thoroughly saturated with water and
kept wet to prevent any rapid absorption of
water from the grout mix. However,
remove any excess water from the top of the
foundation just prior to pouring the concrete
grout. Use a concrete grout mixture which
contains a non-shrink additive to minimize the
shrinkage. Mix and pour the EPOXY grout
following the instructions in the carton. Pay
particular attention to the temperature
requirements!
2. Using an overhead crane or other lifting
device that is capable of lifting the total
weight of the crusher, attach suitable steel
cable slings to the four (4) ribs near the lower
corners of the main frame flange. THE
STEEL CABLES SHOULD BE HELD APART
BY HEAVY-DUTY SPREADER BARS TO
PREVENT ANY SHIFTING OF THE CABLES.
ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE LIFTING
EQIPMENT IS OF SUFFICIENT CAPACITY
TO LIFT THE REQUIRED WEIGHTS.
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3. Lower the crusher in position on the
foundation on top of the hardwood blocks.
4. Level the crusher by inserting steel shims
between the underside of the main frame
flange on top of the wood blocks.
WHEN A CRUSHER IS MOUNTED ON A
STEEL STRUCTURE, THE CRUSHER IS
SIMPLY LEVELLED, SHIMMED AND
TIGHTENED FIRMLY TO THE STRUCTURE.
5. Construct a form around the inside and outside of
the main frame flange to contain the epoxy or
concrete during pouring. Use 1” x 4” (25 x
102mm) wood strips for the forms. Locate and
fasten the 1" x 4" (25 x 102mm) wood strips, 1/2"
(13mm) from the outside of the main frame
flange. On the inside, place the forms against the
side of the foundation and the underside of the
main frame flange. All forms must be thoroughly
waxed with several coats of ordinary paste wax.
This will prevent the wood strips from sticking to
the grout. All joints and seams must be sealed
with tubes of silicone caulk to prevent leakage
of the grout during pouring.
To prevent air entrapment under the crusher,
pour the grout from one place at a time, allowing
the grout to cover an area of approximately 2 feet
(.6 meters) on either side of the pouring spot.
Then move to a position where the previous pour
flow has stopped and pour again. Continue this
procedure until grouting is completed. DO NOT
POUR THE GROUT INTO MORE THAN ONE
AREA AT A TIME.
6. Epoxy or concrete grout should harden
sufficiently in 2 or 3 days to permit operation.
After the grouting has hardened, tighten the
crusher firmly to the foundation.
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MAINTENANCE

Main Frame Liners, Arm Guards and Counter Shaft Guards

When the crusher is "down" for a liner change, inspect the upper, lower and countershaft main frame liners, arm
guards and countershaft guards for wear. To replace main frame liners, arm guards and countershaft guards,
proceed as follows:
1. Replace the worn arm guards by lowering them onto the mainframe arms.
2. Install the countershaft box guard by lowering it over the countershaft box
3. Since main frame liners are in sections, the installation of the liners is a somewhat easier task. The height
at which the liner is to be welded inside the frame is readily noticeable by the remaining weld from the
old liner. Use a 3/8" (9mm) fillet weld, 3" (76mm) long, spaced 12" (304mm) on centers, for both the upper
and lower liners. The five (5) upper main frame liners should be welded in the frame AFTER the four (4) lower
liners have been welded in place. Use E7018 weld rod on all welds.

Installing Socket
Once the eccentric assembly is installed and the backlash and root clearances have been established, install
the socket as follows:
1. Lower the socket assembly into approximate position on the mainframe and align the holes in the
socket with the four dowels in the frame.
2. Insert the socket head cap screws through the holes in the socket then into the tapped holes in the
frame.
3. As the socket has an interference fit with the frame, uniformly heat the frame around the socket fit to 38º
C (100º F) above ambient temperature. See Table 3 - 1 for the proper amount of interference between
socket liner and socket.
4. With a wrench, alternately tighten each cap screw a small amount to prevent binding.
5. Tighten all cap screws until the socket is seated in the frame. The socket imust seat with a clearance of
1/8” between the socket flange and the frame. Remove the cap screws and put plastic caps in all drilled
and tapped holes in the socket for protection.

CRUSHER SOCKET TO CRUSHER SOCKET LINER TO

SIZE MAIN FRAME INTERFERENCE SIZE MAIN FRAME INTERFERENCE
MINIMUM MAXIMUM MINIMUM MAXIMUM
TC 51 TC 51
.0004”(0.010mm) 0.006”(0.156mm) 0.0002”(0.005mm) 0.004”(0.108mm)
Table 3 - 1 Table 3 - 2

Installing Socket liner

The radial oil grooves in the socket liner are 15mm (0.59”) deep when the socket liner was "new". THE
SOCKET LINER MUST BE REPLACED WHEN THE GROOVES IN THE LINER WEAR DOWN TO A 0.16”
(4mm) DEPTH.The socket liner is replaced as follows:
1. Install the three (3) jackscrews in the tapped holes in the socket flange.
2. Uniformly heating the frame around the socket fit to 38º C (100º F) above ambient temperature. Heating
of the frame is required to protect it from damage when removing the socket.
3. Alternately tighten each jackscrew a small amount to prevent binding in the frame.
4. Continue tightening the cap screws until they bottom in the threaded holes.
5. Back out the cap screws far enough to insert a steel block under each cap screw. Continue tightening
the cap screws until the socket is free of the frame.
6. Place the socket upside down on timbers or other suitable supports.

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7. Place a 4" x 4" wooden block against the socket liner and hit against the wooden block with a heavy
hammer. Keep hitting the liner, moving around the bore and alternately hitting the liner at one point and
then at a point on the opposite side, until the liner drops free.
8. Make sure that the socket liner-seating surface on the socket was not damaged (dents, nicks, etc.) when
the socket liner was removed. These must be ground flush!
9. Then turn the socket over and center the new liner over the drilled holes in the socket. To prevent the
socket liner from turning, should the socket liner lose its interference fit, Babbitt will be poured in the holes
of the socket liner and socket after the liner is seated.
10. Place a wooden block directly over the top of the socket fit, as the liner has an interference fit with the
socket, and hit against the block with a sledge hammer or heavy ram. See Table 3 - 2 for the proper
amount of interference between the liner and the socket. Force the liner in place a little at a time,
moving around the perimeter of the bore and alternately hitting the bock at one point and then at a point
on the opposite side.
11. Pour molten Babbitt into the holes in the socket liner to provide a means of retaining the socket. liner
from rotating in the socket should the interference fit be lost.
12. Thoroughly clean and lightly oil the surface of the liner.

Removal of Outer Eccentric Bushing

To remove the burnt or damaged outer eccentric bushing from the main frame, proceed as follows:
1. Drill a series of 3/8” holes , spaced 4” apart, in the wall of
the outer bushing to the depth of bushing shoulder. Hold a
steel bar at 45º angle against the outside of the bushing
and break the top of the bushing into pieces by hitting the
bar with a sledge hammer. Do this to destroy the bushing
locks.
2. Cut a steel plate to a diameter slightly smaller than the
main frame bore. A plate 2" (50 mm) thick is required;
several plates of thinner materials can be used to
obtain this 2" (50 mm) thickness. Place the plate against
the bottom of the bushing. A HEX NUT CAN BE WELDED
TO THE TOP OF THIS PLATE AND WITH AN EYEBOLT
THREADED INTO THE NUT, CONNECT THE
EYEBOLT TO A CRANE OR SUITABLE HOIST.
PULLING FROM THE TOP, WHILE JACKING FROM
THE BOTTOM, WILL HELP CONSIDERABLY IN
REMOVAL.
3. Then cut a plate the same diameter as the main frame cap
also from 2" (50 mm) material. Torch cut three holes in the
plate the same diameter and on the same bolt circles as
those in the main frame cap. The three holes must be spaced 120° apart.
4. Suspend the plate from the bottom of the main frame by three long studs. Place a 50-ton hydraulic
jack between this plate and the one placed against the bottom of the bushing. A substitute arrangement
can be utilized by placing a steel rail or beam across the discharge compartment to provide a
support for the jack.
5. Force the bushing from the frame by exerting pressure with the jack and adding blocking as needed.

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Installation of Outer Eccentric Bushing

Pre- Installation check:
1. Before installing a new outer eccentric bushing, inspect the main frame bores for scoring or rough spots,
these must be smoothed out.
2. Also check the bore to be sure that it has not worn oversize or shrunk undersize, due to the presence of
heat. Measure the main frame bore from bottom to top.
3. Removing the main frame cap will expose an area in the bore that has been unaffected by wear or heat,
since the cap projects about 1/2" (12 mm) inside. Using an inside micrometer placed in the bore, about
1/4" to 3/8" (6 mm to 10 mm) from the bottom of the frame will give the original bore diameter.
4. Once this dimension has been recorded, measure the entire length of the bore, checking about every 6"
(150 mm). At the same time check for out-of-roundness by swinging the micrometer 90° to the first
measurement and measure this diameter.
5. With a bore that has shrunk unevenly, the high spots can be ground off to the correct diameter. If the
bore has pulled in to the extent where hand grinding is no longer practical, the entire main frame bore
must be machined out to the original diameter. Also, in case the frame bore has worn out-of-round, it
should be re-machined concentric, even though the diameter would be increased. Re-machining
drawings are available showing the correct bore dimensions and their tolerances.
6. When a bore has either been worn or machined oversize, contact Trio for the purchase of a special
oversize bushing, giving re-machined bore dimensions so that the bushing can be machined to the
proper tolerances.
7. Outer eccentric bushings are machined to provide a metal-to-metal or a few thousandths loose fit in the
main frame bore. Should a bushing have such a metal-to-metal fit or be out of round because of improper
storage or shipment, the following procedure using dry ice is recommended.

Installation:
To install a replacement outer eccentric bushing, using dry ice proceed as follows:

TO PREVENT ICE BURNS USE WELL INSULATED GLOVES WHEN HANDLING DRY ICE
1. Paint or scribe a line down the side of the bushing starting from one of the cast lugs.
2. Pack the bore of the replacement bushing with dry ice to shrink the bushing. About 250 pounds
(115 Kg) is required to adequately pack the inside of the bushing providing some sort of filler is used
in the center of the bushing. As an example, a 6" x 6" wooden timber leaves sufficient area around
it in a outer eccentric bushing to allow for an adequate amount of dry ice to shrink the
bushing. Cooling time should be approximately two hours on all size bushings.
3. Wrap the outside of the bushing with several layers of burlap to prevent the external build up of
frost which would hinder the installation of the bushing in the main frame. Wrapping also helps to achieve
a more thorough cooling.
4. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD OF INSTALLATION TO OVERCOME A MAIN FRAME BORE THAT HAS
CLOSED-IN.
5. Measure the outside diameter of the bushing and the bore of the main frame to determine when the
bushing has cooled sufficiently.
6. Lift the bushing into position and center it in the top of the main frame bore. Use the line on the side of
the bushing for aligning the bushing with the cored pockets in the frame.
7. Quickly lower the bushing into the main frame.
8. The top of the bushing must be flush with the top of the frame when properly installed.
9. Pour the bushing lock.
If dry ice is not available an alternate method using ramming can be employed. To install the bushing by
ramming, proceed as follows:
1. Paint or scribe a line down the side of the bushing starting from one of the cast lugs.

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2. Lift the bushing into position and center it in the top of the main frame bore. Use the line on the side of
the bushing for aligning the bushing with the cored pockets in the frame.
3. Place the steel plate used in removal, on top of the bushing and force the bushing into the frame by
ramming against the top of the steel plate.
4. The top of the bushing must be flush with the top of the frame when properly installed.
5. Pour the bushing lock.

MAINFRAME SEAT LINER AND FULCRUM BAR

To inspect the main frame seat liner for wear, use the "CRUSHER CAVITY CLEARING SYSTEM", which is
described in Section C-IV, to raise the adjustment ring to its maximum height.
BEFORE INSPECTING THE SEAT LINER for wear, the three (3) SAFETY BLOCKS provided with the clearing
system, are to be inserted between the bottom of three (3) equally spaced clamping/clearing cylinders and on top of
the cylinder mounting ribs on the main frame flange. When the safety blocks have been properly installed, LOWER
the adjustment ring so that the clamping/clearing cylinders rest on top of the safety blocks!
Using a flashlight, check the thickness of the seat liner all around the entire main frame!
WHEN THE SEAT LINER IS APPROXIMATELY 1/8" (3MM) THICK, THE SEAT LINER SHOULD BE
REPLACED. CHECK THE SEAT LINER FOR WEAR EVERY THREE (3) MONTHS.
1. To replace the existing seat liner, raise the adjustment ring to its maximum height
2. Then install the SAFETY BLOCKS.
3. LOWER the adjustment ring until the clamping/clearing cylinders are resting on top of the safety
blocks.
4. Proceed to remove the existing seat liner and replace the liner as shown on the drawing "FIELD
WELDING OF MAIN FRAME SEAT LINER," furnished upon request, from Trio.
5. After the new seat liner(s) have been installed, raise the adjustment ring to its maximum height.
6. Then remove the three- (3) safety blocks.
7. Lower the adjustment ring so that the adjustment ring returns to its seating surface on the main frame
SEAT LINER. The adjustment ring may lower with a SLIGHT TILT. This is normal!
When assembling the adjustment ring onto a new main frame seat liner, contact must be all around on the seat liner
as shown in.
To determine if the adjustment ring is seating correctly, place balls of putty on the main frame seat liner. Then lower
the adjustment ring onto the frame. BEFORE LOWERING THE ADJUSTMENT RING, LIGHTLY OIL THE
ADJUSTMENT RING SEAT LINER TO PREVENT THE PUTTY FROM STICKING TO THE SEAT LINER ON THE
UNDERSIDE OF THE ADJUSTMENT RING. Then lift the adjustment ring OFF the main frame. The putty will
compress and show if the ring is seating correctly all around!

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C-II COUNTER SHAFT BOX ASSEMBLY

COUNTER SHAFT BOX ASSEMBLY

Item Part Description
1 Gasket
2 Bolt 5/8”x 2” Lg.
3 Bolt 5/8”x 4.25” Lg.
4 Lock Washer 16
5 Washer 16
6 Pin 5/8 “ x 1- 1/2 “
7 Pin 3/4”x2”
8 Counter Shaft Box Seal (479.4x6.35)
9 “O” Seal II (111.1x5.3)
10 Bushing
11 Pinion
12 Counter Shaft Box Guard
13 Counter Shaft Box
14 Oil Collar Key
15 Pinion Key
16 Counter Shaft Box Oil Flinger Housing
17 Oil Flinger
18 Piston Ring
19 Pinion Thrust Washer
20 Counter Shaft
21 Bolt 1- 1/4 “-7UNCx 4 “ Lg.
22 Lock Washer 32
23 Washer 33
24 Pipe Plug NPT1"
25 Bolt 1", L= 195 mm
26 Bolt 1/2“
27 Bolt 3/8”
28 Driven Sheave
29 Sheave Bushing
30 Lock Washer 27
31 Washer 27

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
A complete procedure for assembling the various components is given in the maintenance portion of this
section. If the countershaft box assembly was removed for shipment, the countershaft box is to be installed in the
main frame as follows:

Installing the Counter Shaft Box

1. Carefully position the large diameter O-ring
over the machined diameter at the pinion end
of the countershaft box. The O-ring can be
found in one of the packing boxes. Coat the
O-ring with lube oil before installing it. This O-
ring prevents oil leakage between the
countershaft box and main frame.
2. Using an overhead crane or other suitable
lifting device, and a canvas lifting "strap",
place the pinion end of the countershaft box in
the main frame bore with the oil drain hole in
the outer flange at 6:00 o’clock position.
3. Position the lifting “strap” around the
countershaft box assembly (without the
crusher sheave), so that the lifting "strap" will
box flange, spaced 120° apart, and then into
the tapped holes in the frame.
5. Because the countershaft box has an
interference fit on both flanges with the main
frame, alternately tighten each jackscrew a
small amount, to prevent binding, until they
have bottomed in the tapped holes in the
frame.
6. Continue forcing the countershaft box into the
frame by alternately tightening these standard
cap screws until the box is tight against the
frame at the OUTER flange

BALANCE the countershaft box assembly. 7. Then remove the jackscrews and replace
Approximately 18" from the outer flange of the them with six (6) regular hex head cap screws
countershaft box should BALANCE the entire and lock washers that will finally hold the box
assembly! Then slide the assembly into the in the frame.
main frame as far as it will go. There is a
locating pad cast into the bottom of the main
frame countershaft box bore. (6:00 o'clock
position), that will aid in sliding the
countershaft box into the main frame.
4. Insert the three (3) special (full thread) hex
head jacking screws, which were shipped in
the box with the tools, through the holes in the

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Installing the Crusher Sheave
To mount a crusher sheave with a removable bushing, proceed as follows:
1. Remove the split tapered bushing from the
sheave by unscrewing the combination take-up
and back-off bolts.
2. Check that the tapered surface and bore of the
bushing, the tapered bore of the sheave and the
countershaft, are clean and free of burrs,
scratches and all foreign matter, such as paint,
dirt and lubricants.
3. Place the sheave key in the countershaft
keyway.
4. Loosen the clamping screw and setscrew on the
sheave bushing sufficiently to permit the
bushing to be slid onto the shaft. DO NOT USE
ANY LUBRICANTS DURING THE
FOLLOWING ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES.
5. Slide the bushing over the end of the shaft
flange first.
6. Position the sheave bushing on the shaft so that
it contacts the seal sleeve. Firmly tighten the
clamping screw, however, avoid over tightening.
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7. Slide the sheave over the bushing being
careful to keep that the bolt holes lined up
with the tapped holes in the bushing flange.
8. Insert the take-up bolts through the bolt holes
and alternately tighten each bolt a small
amount, until all bolts are tight. Refer to the
table, TAKE-UP BOLTS TORQUE
REQUIREMENTS. Do not lubricate the bolt
threads or the tapped holes. When the
sheave is finally positioned, there should be a
clearance 1/8” to ¼” (3.2 mm to 6.4 mm)
between face of the sheave hub and the
flange of the bushing. No attempt should be
made to take up this clearance as this
clearance assures the proper fit and grip
between sheave bushing and countershaft.
The take up bolts are to be torque to 300 Ft.
Lbs. (406 N/M). Over tightening the take-up
bolts will create bursting pressures in the hub
of the sheave and could cause the sheave to
crack.
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MAINTENANCE
Removal of the Sheave
To remove the crusher sheave proceeds as follows:
1. Lockout and tag the electrical power to the crusher motor and remove the drive belts.
2. Remove the take-up bolts and thread two of them into the tapped holes in the hub of the sheave. Using
the two bolts as back-off bolts, exert pressure by tightening the bolts against the flange of the bushing,
breaking the sheave grip on the bushing cone.

SHOULD THERE BE DIFFICULTY "BREAKING" THE FIT BETWEEN THE SHEAVE AND BUSHING,
TAP THE END OF THE SHAFT OR BUSHING WITH A BABBITT HAMMER WHILE MAINTAINING
BACK-OFF BOLT PRESSURE, UNTIL THE SHEAVE IS LOOSE ENOUGH TO REMOVE.
3. Loosen the clamping screw and set screw on the bushing,
4. If necessary, insert a wedge (screw-driver), into the split in the bushing flange and remove the bushing.
5. Slide the sheave off the countershaft.
6. Pull the bushing out of the sheave.

Disassembly of the counter Shaft Box

To disassemble the countershaft box assembly for
replacement of bushings, pinion or other worn parts, proceeds
as follows:
1. Remove the crusher sheave and all oil piping that
would interfere with removal of the box.
2. Remove the cap screws holding the countershaft
box to the main frame.
3. Install the special (full thread) hex head jacking
screws, which were furnished with the machine, into
the three (3) equally spaced tapped holes in the
outer flange of the box.
4. Alternately tighten each jackscrew a small amount
to prevent the countershaft box from binding in the frame.

IF THERE IS AN EXCEPTIONALLY TIGHT FIT, HEAT MAY BE APPLIED TO THE MAIN

FRAME AT THE OUTER COUNTERSHAFT BOX FIT TO ASSIST IN REMOVAL. HEAT
THE FRAME HOUSING TO APPROXIMATELY 100° FAHRENHEIT ABOVE AMBIENT
5. Continue tightening the jackscrews until the box is free of the frame.
6. The countershaft box will "drop" downward approximately 3/4" (19mm) to the runners cast into the
bottom of the box when removing the box, unless a canvas "strap" is wrapped around the countershaft
box OUTER flange, which will prevent the 3/4" (19mm) drop Using an overhead crane or other suitable
lifting device, pull the countershaft box assembly OUT of the frame approximately 18" (457mm), then
move the lifting strap inward to "re-center" the box assembly.
7. Remove the gear housing.
8. Heat the oil flinger to a temperature of approximately 50° Fahrenheit (10° C) above the ambient
temperature.
9. Place a pry bar between the oil flinger and the countershaft box and exert moderate pressure.
10. Once the oil flinger starts to move, grasp each side of the oil flinger and pull the oil flinger straight off the
shaft.
11. Pull the countershaft assembly out of the countershaft box.

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Assembly of the counter Shaft Box

To assemble the countershaft box assembly, proceeds as follows:
1. Insert the countershaft assembly in the countershaft box.
2. To hold the countershaft stationary, place a large "C" clamp or any alternate method so that the pinion is
clamped to the countershaft box flange.
3. Place the oil flinger key on the countershaft. On some countershaft box assemblies the oil flinger key
requires to be welded to the flinger to hold the key in place.
4. Check the condition of the seal inside the oil flinger bore, if so equipped. Replace the seal if necessary.
5. Heat the oil flinger to a temperature of approximately 50° Fahrenheit (10° C) above the ambient
temperature and assemble it on the countershaft as quickly as possible. The flinger is properly
assembled when it is tight against the outer countershaft bushing.
DO NOT APPLY TOO MUCH HEAT TO THE FLINGER AS THE "0" RING OR THE GRAPHITE
IMPREGNATED PACKING WHICH PREVENTS OIL FROM LEAKING OUT ALONG THE
COUNTERSHAFT, COULD BECOME DAMAGED FROM THE HEAT.
6. If the oil flinger is equipped with a piston ring, check for the piston ring free movement inside the
machined groove. Replace the piston ring if necessary.
7. Check the bore inside the flinger housing before assembling the housing to the countershaft box.
Replace the flinger housing if the groove worn in the housing is too deep.
Replacing the Pinion
Whenever the countershaft box is out of the crusher for inspection or replacement of parts, inspect the pinion for wear
and/or chipped or broken teeth. Pitting or galling on the face of the teeth are indications of excessive wear. This can
be due to improper tooth contact resulting from an incorrect quantity of shims being placed under the eccentric thrust
bearing plate, by overloading the crusher or by using excessively dirty oil. If the pinion is worn to the point where
replacement is necessary (severe pitting/excessive backlash are evident), the pinion is to be removed as follows:

IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT WHEN EITHER THE PINION OR GEAR MUST BE REPLACED, THEN
BOTH THE PINION AND GEAR SHOULD BE REPLACED AT THE SAME TIME!

1. Remove the countershaft from the countershaft box

assembly as described under "DISASSEMBLY OF
COUNTERSHAFT BOX."
2. Slide off the pinion thrust washer.
3. Drive out the tapered key, from the rear of the pinion,
4. Place the pinion and shaft assembly in a suitable
hydraulic press and force the pinion free of the shaft
5. Lubricate the end of the shaft and the bore of the new
pinion with a suitable pressing lubricant.
6. Place the pinion on the end of the shaft and align the
keyways.
7. Press the new pinion onto the shaft so that the end of
the shaft protrudes from the pinion approximately 1/4”
(6mm), A as shown in figure 4-1.

Oil Leakage from Counter Shaft Oil

Seal
Should oil begin to leak out of the seal retainer at the drive end of
the countershaft box, it might be damaged “O” Ring or Graphite
packing inside the Oil Flinger and requires replacing. See
"DISASSEMBLY OF COUNTERSHAFT BOX" .

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 COUNTER SHAFT BOX ASSEMBLY

Replacing Countershaft Bushing

To replace the countershaft bushings, that have a press fit or those that have "seized" in the box because of a build
up of heat due to inadequate lubrication or from overloading the Crusher, proceed as follows:
REMOVAL OF COUNTERSHAFT BUSHINGS
1. Remove the countershaft box from the main frame and the
countershaft from the countershaft box as described under
“DISASSEMBLY OF COUNTERSHAFT BOX”.
2. Construct a steel centering plate as shown in the illustration
CENTERING PLATE.
3. Slide the narrow portion of the plate horizontally through the
bushing until the plate is behind the bushing.
4. Turn the centering plate 90° so that the outer edge of the
plate will bear against the bushing. See the illustration
COUNTERSHAFT BUSHING REMOVAL.
5. While holding the plate in position thread a 1" (25mm) diameter rod into the nut which is welded to the
center of the plate. The rod must be a few inches longer than the bushing and threaded on both ends.
6. Place a 1" (25mm) x 3" (75mm) x 12" (305mm) steel bar over the other end of the rod and hold firmly in
place with a hex nut.
7. Insert a long timber or pipe through the opposite end of the countershaft box and ram against the
centering plate.
Should the bushing remain tight within the countershaft box an alternate method utilizing a jacking procedure is
suggested to remove bushings which are very difficult to remove, proceed as follows:
1. Using the same centering device as previously described and in the same manner except for a much
longer rod and steel bar, place wooden blocking between the steel bar and the countershaft box flange
as shown in the illustration COUNTERSHAFT BUSHING REMOVAL.
2. Using the threaded rod as a jackscrew, tighten the hex nut until the flange of the bushing is pulled against
the steel bar.
3. Unscrew the nut and place additional blocking under the bar and tighten the hex nut until the bushing is
again pulled against the bar.
4. Repeat this procedure until the bushing is free.

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 COUNTER SHAFT BOX ASSEMBLY

INSPECTION PRIOR TO BUSHING INSTALLATION

Check the diameter of the bore in the countershaft box. The bushings are machined to provide a fit of 0.001 inch
(0.025mm) tight, to 0.002 inch (0.050mm) loose. The inside diameter of the bore and the outside diameter of the
bushing should meet these tolerances.
Check the shaft itself for straightness or run out. With the shaft between centers, the run out should not exceed a total
of 0.004 inch (0.101mm). If more than 0.004 inch (0.101mm), the countershaft should be replaced.
INSTALLING COUNTERSHAFT BUSHINGS
To install the bushing, proceed as follows:
1. Remove two of the four dowels or pins from the face of the box flange.
2. Insert two rods which are slightly longer than the bushing into these two
dowel holes. These rods will make certain that the holes in the bushing
flange line up with the dowels in the box.
3. Both countershaft bushings, inner and outer are identical. However, their
position in the bore may differ. The longitudinal oil groove in the INNER
countershaft bushing is properly located at the top of the countershaft. The
OUTER countershaft bushing is normally installed with the longitudinal oil
groove located at the top, however its position will differ if the motor
sheave is located ABOVE the Crusher. The outer countershaft bushing
groove must then be rotated 90 deg. from the top center in either direction.
Refer the illustration OIL GROOVE LOCATION
4. Pack the bore of the replacement bushings with dry ice for 2-3 hrs to shrink the bushings for easy
installation into the box. Approx. 50 pounds of dry ice will be required for both bushings.
5. Wrap the outside of the bushings in burlap to prevent the external build up of the frost.
WARNING: Use heavy, well insulated gloves when handling the dry ice to prevent severe skin
burns.
6. Very quickly slide the bushings into the bore of the box using the rods inserted in the box as guides.
7. Alternatively RAM the bushings into place by using a suitable block of wood across the face of the
bushing to protect it. Do not use excessive force and tap several times to drive the bushings small
amount at a time.
8. Replace the two dowels that were previously removed.

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 ECCENTRIC ASSEMBLY

C-III ECCENTRIC ASSEMBLY

Eccentric Assembly
ITEM DESCRIPTION
1 Inner Eccentric Bushing
2 Eccentric
3 Gear
4 Key
5 Step Bearing Plate Pin
6 Upper Step Bearing Plate
7 Lower Step Bearing Plate
8 Shims
9 Packing (Epoxy Resin)
10 Lead Backing

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 ECCENTRIC ASSEMBLY

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
If the eccentric assembly was removed from the crusher because of weight limitations, the various
parts of this assembly are to be installed as follows:
1. Attach the upper step bearing to the eccentric with the upper bearing plate tool furnished with the
tools making sure the pin is engaged into the cored hole of the eccentric. With the shims and lower
bearing plate installed in the main frame cap, attach the eyebolts to the eccentric and lower the
eccentric assembly into the bore of the outer eccentric bushing. Continue lowering the eccentric
assembly until it sets on the lower bearing plate making sure that the gear teeth engage with the
pinion teeth
2. Root clearance and backlash should be set in accordance with Table 5 - 1. After the eccentric assembly
has been installed in the crusher, remove the upper bearing plate tool and replace it in the tool box.

Checking Backlash and Root Clearance

To check backlash and root clearance, proceed as follows:
1. Position the HEAVY side of the eccentric assembly near the pinion.
2. Remove all clearance between the inner eccentric bushing and the main shaft by sliding the eccentric
assembly toward the pinion so that the teeth on the gear are in their closest relationship to the pinion.
Hold the gear in this position while taking the backlash and root clearance measurements (See Table
5-1). Limit the force used only to that required to slide the eccentric assembly toward the pinion.

ROOT CLEARANCE
CRUSHER SIZE BACKLASH
MINIMUM MAXIMUM
0.030” (0.76 mm)
TC 51 0.094” (2.38 mm) 0.156” ( 3.96 mm)
0.050” (1.27 mm)
Measurement to be taken at outer end of Teeth only.
Table 5-1.
3. To check the backlsh , rotate the countershaft until the pinion tooth just touches the gear tooth.
Measure the clearance on the opposite side of the tooth with a feeler gage. Then measure the root
clearance between the two meshing teeth.
4. Do this several times to find the average readings for the backlash and the root clearance. If the average
readings are less than or more than specified then the eccentric assembly should be removed. Add or
remove appropriate amount of shims to get the correct amount of backlash and root clearance.
5. Whenever installing the shims, always place the thinnest shim at the bottom and the thickest at the top.
Always use the thickest shims possible. All shims must be flat without burrs, kinks and bends.
6. The shims are to be inserted under the lower step bearing and directly into the main frame cap as
shown. Adding shims will raise the eccentric assembly and move the gear away from the pinion,
which increases the root clearance.

SHIMS INITIALLY PLACED BENEATH THE LOWER STEP BEARING AT THE FACTORY
ARE OF THE REQUIRED THICKNESS TO PROVIDE PROPER BACKLASH AND ROOT
CLEARANCE. THEREAFTER, EXTRA SHIMS THAT MAY BE REQUIRED, ARE AVAILABLE FOR
WEAR COMPENSATION FROM TRIO.

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 ECCENTRIC ASSEMBLY

MAINTENANCE
Removing Eccentric Assembly
Attach the upper step-bearing tool to the top of the upper step bearing, screw in the (2) eyebolts and lift the
eccentric assembly out of the crusher. Carefully lift the eccentric straight up out of the main frame and set it on a
suitable work place.

Replacing Gear
The gear, which is mounted on the top of the eccentric, should be inspected whenever the eccentric is removed
for servicing other parts, or if broken or excessively worn teeth are suspected. Pitting or galling on the face of the
teeth is a good indication of excessive wear. This can originate from an incorrect quantity of shims being placed
under the eccentric thrust bearing plate, or by overloading the crusher or by using excessively dirty oil. If it has
been determined that the gear is worn to the point where replacement is necessary, removal is best
accomplished as follows:

IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT WHEN EITHER THE GEAR OR PINION MUST BE

REPLACED DUE TO EXCESSIVE WEAR OR BROKEN TEETH, BOTH THE GEAR AND
PINION BE REPLACED AT THE SAME TIME!

Gear Removal
(See Eccentric Assembly Figure)
This assembly consists of a separate ring gear bolted to the counterweight. For removing the
gear, proceed as follows:
1. Remove the eccentric assembly from the crusher.
2. Place wooden blocking under the gear in such a position so that the gear will not fall a great distance, but
should be high enough to permit the gear to drop clear of the shoulder on the eccentric.
3. Chip oft the weld holding the key to the gear and drive the key out from the bottom of the gear.
4. Ram downward on the outer surface of the gear with a timber until the gear drops free of the eccentric, If
required heat the gear to approximately 200 0F above ambient.

Gear Installation
When installing a new gear, proceed as follows:
1. Place the gear on blocking that is high enough to permit the eccentric to be suspended in the
gear when the eccentric is lowered into position. Uniformly heat the gear to 200° Fahrenheit
(93° C) above ambient temperature.
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE GEAR IS HEATED EVENLY THROUGHOUT AND THE HEAT
IS NOT CONCENTRATED IN ONE AREA CREATING A "HOT" SPOT WHICH COULD
DESTROY THE HEAT TREATMENT OF THE GEAR. A CHEMICAL MARKING DEVICE,
WHICH MELTS AT A PREDETERMINED TEMPERATURE SHOULD BE USED TO INSURE
UNIFORM AND SAFE HEATING.
2. Measure the outside diameter of the eccentric and the bore of the gear as it is being heated to
be sure the bore is slightly larger than the eccentric.
3. Align the keyways, and lower the eccentric into place until the eccentric is firmly seated in
the gear. If the gear has been heated properly, no trouble should be encountered in lowering
the eccentric into position.
4. Then drive the key into position, approximately 3/8" (10mm) below the top of the gear. After
the entire assembly has cooled, tack weld the gear to the key, care being taken that the weld
does not project above the top of the eccentric.

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 ECCENTRIC ASSEMBLY

A HYDRAULIC PRESS CAN BE USED FOR REMOVAL OR INSTALLATION OF THE GEAR,

HOWEVER, HEAT IS STILL THE PREFERRED METHOD. IN THE EVENT THAT EITHER
GEAR OR ECCENTRIC HAS BEEN METAL SPRAYED TO INCREASE THE INTERFERENCE
FIT, INSTALLATION WITH HEAT IS TO BE THE ONLY METHOD USED. IF A HYDRAULIC
PRESS IS TO BE USED, REFER TO THE TABLE GEAR PRESS FIT FOR THE CAPACITY OF
PRESS REQUIRED.

Adjusting Gear Backlash and Root Clearance for Wear

When the gear and pinion tooth wear reaches the point that proper backlash can no longer be maintained, then
the proper ROOT CLEARANCE MUST BE MAINTAINED. This is done by adding or removing the correct
combination of shims which will give the proper backlash as specified in Table 5-1 under "ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTIONS." Adding shims raises the entire assembly, thereby moving the gear and pinion farther apart.
Removing shims lowers the assembly to bring the gear and pinion closer together.

Inner Eccentric Bushing

Whenever the eccentric assembly is removed, the inner eccentric bushing should be checked for looseness,
burnt spots and excessive wear or cracking.

A BUSHING WITH NORMAL USE WEARS ON THE HEAVY SIDE OF THE ECCENTRIC
ASSEMBLY. THIS IS NOT A CAUSE FOR CONCERN BECAUSE IT IS A NORMAL AND
EXPECTED CONDITION. A BUSHING THAT IS WORN EXCESSIVELY THIN, CRACKED OR
BURNT SHOULD BE REPLACED.

If the bushing is found to be loose in the eccentric, ram it down until a feeler gauge of no more than 0.004”
(0.1mm) can be inserted at the bottom, between the bushing and the bore of the eccentric.

Inner Eccentric Bushing Removal

The inner eccentric bushing is held in the eccentric by key. If the inner bushing is to be removed for
replacement, proceed as follows:
Turn the eccentric assembly on its side and ram it out of the eccentric from the small end using a wood block.

Inspection of Inner Eccentric Assembly Bore

Before installing a new inner eccentric bushing, inspect the eccentric bore for scoring or rough spots. These
must be smoothed out. Also, check the bore to be sure that it has not worn oversize or shrunk undersize due to
the presence of heat. Laying a straight edge along the inside of the eccentric bore will indicate if it is warped due
to heat. If the warp is not excessive, grinding the high spot is acceptable. If the warp is excessive the eccentric
must be replaced.

Inner Eccentric Bushing Installation

Store the inner eccentric bushings in a vertical position. Storing inner eccentric bushings other then in an upright
position will cause them to go out of round. If a bushing is out of round from improper storage, replace it with a
new one.

DO NOT USE DRY ICE TO INSTALL AN INNER ECCENTRIC BUSHING. BOTH BUSHING AND
ECCENTRIC MUST BE AT THE SAME TEMPERATURE WHEN INSTALLING THE BUSHING.
1. Slide the bushing into the eccentric, aligning the bushing key with the eccentric keyway.
2. Ram the bushing tight.
3. Check to see if the bushing is tight in the eccentric by inserting a feeler gauge of no more than 0.004”
(0.1mm) at the bottom, between the bushing and the bore of the eccentric. If it does not enter, the
bushing is tight.

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