Crochet Coat Patterns

Technicolor Dream Coat
Designed by EarthTricks

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Materials:
Work this piece with bulky weight yarn, or with worsted weight yarn! Use a huge variety of textures and
colors to achieve a funky look. Combine smooth yarns with textured ones, and even faux fur ones! I love
these coats as a fantastic stash buster, using up an assortment of odds and ends leftover from other
projects.
Some suggestions for yarns (but you are in no way limited to these! Use your favorites)
● Lion brand “Homespun”, “Fun Fur”, “Heartland” and “Wool ease”
● Knit Picks “Brava”, “Billow”, “Mighty Stitch”, and “Wonderfluff”
● Yarn Bee “Creatively Colorful”, “Arabella”, Gilt Eyelash”, and “Fireside”
To my best estimation (since I use this pattern as a stash buster, not everything has labels!), here is a list
of the yarns I used in my rainbow coat:
● Big Twist Cream in Gold, Cream, Avocado, Orange, Red, and Teal
● Lion Brand Homespun in Opal, Golden and Ambrosia
● Red Heart With Love Papaya, Boysenberry, Shocking Pink, and Cerulean
● Caron Simply Soft in Ocean, Chatureuse, Royal Blue, Neon Orange, and Red.
● Knit Pick’s Mighty Stitch in Mulberry, Ivy and Satsuma
This pattern is written to be used with bulky weight yarn. However, you can also use
worsted weight by working one size up. All sections of this pattern include
measurements in inches, so it is simple for you to match up to the correct size!
Bulky weight yarn: Worsted weight yarn:

900-1400yds 1200-1800yds
K/6.6mm hook J/6.00mm hook
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Joining rows:
This pattern has a ton of color changes. I personally am a huge fan of the “Magic Knot
Yarn Join” to join my colors! You can also fasten off, and refasten the standard way,
whatever you're comfortable with.

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The backpost dc (bpdc):

This pattern also makes frequent use of the bpdc. Since there are many sizes outlined
here (with different row counts), and you may choose to join your yarn for each color
change, or fasten off and fasten on at the other corner to start your next row, I have
ubiquitiously used the term “backpost dc”.

What is intended with these rows is, regardless of the direction you are crocheting in,
that the ridge created in these rows faces the right side of the garment:

I love the layered, textured effect of these rows! As you work your rows back and
forth, just keep in mind that each section of “bdpc” is intended to be worked with your
ridge facing the right side of the garment, and the smooth section worked towards the
wrong side of the garment.

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Getting started:
This coat is worked from the shoulders down. It is initially worked as three panels: a back panel,
and two front panels. These three pieces have an identical color / stitch pattern, so they all
match. I personally work all three panels at the same time (So I’ll do rows 1-3 of the back panel,
then the two front panels. Then do rows 4-6 of the back, then of the front panels, etc). You can
do the same, or work them each one at a time. Totally up to you!
Sizing checks: There are notes in the sections for the front and back panels on
how to adjust the size of these panels. Below is a picture of what these panels will look
like once they are joined together. Use this as a helpful reference for sizing your own
coat’s fit on yourself!
This pattern outlines sizes based on bust circumference:

Small (31”-34”)
Medium (34”-37”)
Large (37”-40”)
XL (40”-43”)
2XL (44”-48”)
3X (49”-53”)
For working larger sizes, all you need to do is add sets of 5 sts to the starting rows of
your back panels and front panels until the desired size is achieved.
You want your front panels to almost meet in the center of your chest, and your back
panel should be a little wider than where a sleeveless shirt would sit.
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Back Panel:
Row 1: Ch 41, 46, 51, 56, 61, 66. Hdc into 2nd ch from hook (counts as first hdc). Hdc across.
(40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 hdc).
Row 2-3:Ch 2 (counts as first hdc throughout). Hdc across. (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 hdc total).
Fasten off after Row 3.
Sizing check: This should measure 14”, 16”, 18”, 20”, 22”, 24”. If your back panel is
not this size, adjust your hook size (a larger hook to make your piece bigger / a smaller
hook to make your piece smaller) or add/subtract 5 ch to your starting ch to get the
correct size. You want your back panel to measure the width of your back, just past the
natural line of where your arm meets your body. If you are making sizes larger than 3XL,
you would want your starting panel to measure the width between your arm creases, and
you want your starting panel to be a multiple of 5 + 1.
Change color. When you fasten on this new color, your first dc (ch 3) will be worked normally,
and then the rest of your stitches will be around the back post of row 3.
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as first bpdc throughout). Bpdc across. (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 bpdc).
Row 5-6: Ch 2, hdc across. (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 hdc). If working sizes S-XL, fasten off.
Row 6b: Ch 2, hdc across. (60, 65 hdc total) Fasten off.
Change color.
Row 7: Ch 3, bpdc across. (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 bpdc).
Row 8: Ch 2, hdc across. (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 hdc).
Size S-M fasten off here. Sizes L-3X, continue onto 8b
Row 8b: Ch 3, hdc across. (50, 55, 60, 65 hdc). Fasten off.
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Color change. Fasten onto a corner st, through both loops.

Row 9a: Ch 3, dc across. (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 dc). Do not fasten off, but choose a new color.
Row 9b: Fasten your new color on the back loops, just next to where you started row 9a. C h1
(counts as first sc throughout), 2 sc. Ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch 1. [4 sc in back loops,
ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch 1]. Repeat across. 1 sc . Fasten off.
Row 10:P icking up the color you used in row 9a. Ch 3, 3 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 4 dc in
front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 sts).
Row 11: Ch 2, hdc across. (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 hdc). Fasten off.
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Change color.
Row 12: Ch 3, bpdc across. (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 bpdc). If working S, M, fasten off here. If
working L-3X, continue to Row 12b.
Row 12b: Ch 2, hdc across. (50, 55, 60, 65 hdc). If working L-XL, fasten off. If working 2X-3X,
continue on.
Row 12c: C h 2, hdc across. (60, 65 hdc). Fasten off.
Change color. Fasten onto a corner st, through back loops.

Row 13: Ch 2, hdc in back loops across. (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 hdc total).
Row 14: Ch 2, inc hdc in first st (2 inc hdc in first two sts for sizes 2X and 3X). Hdc across, inc
hdc in last st (2 inc hdc in last two sts for sizes 2X and 3X) . (42, 47, 52, 57, 64, 69 hdc total).
Fasten off.

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Front Panels:
Make 2 front panels.
Row 1:Ch 21, 23, 27, 31, 37, 43. Hdc into 2nd ch from hook (counts as first hdc). Hdc across.
(20, 22, 26, 30, 36, 42 hddc total.)
Row 2-3: Ch 2, hdc across. (20, 22, 26, 30, 36, 42 hdc total). Fasten off after Row 3.
Sizing check: This should measure 7.5”, 8”, 9”, 10”, 11.5”, 13” If your front panel is
not this size, adjust your hook size or add/subtract 4 sts to get the correct size. You want
your front panels to be just about the half-width of your chest (so they should almost
meet in the center of your chest). You will be working a thick trim on the front panels
later in this pattern, which adds about 3 inches to the width of each panel.
Change color. When you fasten on this new color, your first dc (ch 3) will be worked normally,
and then the rest of your stitches will be around the back post of row 3.
Row 5-6: Ch 2, hdc across. (20, 22, 26, 30, 36, 42 hdc). If working sizes S-XL, fasten off.
Row 6b: Ch 2, hdc across. (36, 42 hdc total) Fasten off.
Change color.
Row 8: Ch 2, hdc across. (20, 22, 26, 30, 36, 42 hdc). Size S-M fasten off here. Size L-3XL
continue to row 8b
Row 8b: Ch 3, hdc across. (26, 30, 36, 42 hdc). Fasten off.
Color change. Fasten onto a corner st, through both loops.

Row 9a: Ch 3, dc in back loops across. ((20, 22, 26, 30, 36, 42 dc). Do not fasten off, but
choose a new color.
Row 9b: Fasten your new color on the back loops on the corner of row 9a. Ch 1 (counts as first
sc), 1 sc. Ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch 1. [4 sc in back loops, ch 1, dc5tog through front
loops, ch 1]. Repeat across. 1 sc. Fasten off.
Row 10:P icking up the color you used in row 9a. Ch 3, 3 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 4 dc in
front loops.] Repeat across. Dc in remaining front loops (20, 22, 26, 30, 36, 42 sts) .
Row 11: Ch 2, hdc across. (20, 22, 26, 30, 36, 42 hdc). Fasten off.
Change color.
Row 12: Ch 3, bpdc across. (20, 22, 26, 30, 36, 42 bpdc). If working S, M, fasten off here. If
working L-3X, continue to Row 12b.
Row 12b: Ch 2, hdc across. (26, 30, 36, 42 hdc). If working L-XL, fasten off. If working 2X-3X,
continue on.
Row 12c: C h 2, hdc across. (36, 42 hdc). Fasten off.
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Color change.
Row 13: Ch 2, hdc across. (20, 22, 26, 30, 36, 42 hdc total)
Up until now, each of the front panels have been identical. In this next row, you are going to
increase at the start of the row for one panel, and at the end of the row in the next panel. This
will now make your two front panels mirror images of each other. The increases are going to
become the bottom of the armhole on each side. The center should be flat.
Row 14: Ch 2, inc hdc (2 inc hdc for sizes 2X and 3X) in first st for one panel. Hdc across, inc
hdc (2 inc hdc for sizes 2X and 3X) i n last st for second panel. (21, 23, 27, 31, 38, 44 hdc total).
Fasten off.
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Attaching the Back and Front Panels to Create a

Shoulder Seam:

Lay the front panels onto the back panel. The “right side” of the panels should all be facing the
inside, and the “wrong side” should be facing outwards. Make sure the increase dc of each front
panel is arranged so that they are the outer corners.
You will sc the front panels to the back panel, starting at the outer corner and sc’ing inwards
towards the center.

Sc 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 across one front panel. Fasten off. Repeat on the other front panel.
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Checking the sizing so far:

Now that your shoulder seam is made, you can check how the start of your coat is fitting. Your
coat should almost, but not quite, meet in the center of your chest. Later we will be adding a
thick trim, and you want there to be a little room for this to be added. If at this point you feel like
this is not quite a fit for you, now is the time to adjust the widths of your panels to your taste.
In the next row, we are going to be working all the way across, and attaching the front panels to
the back panel under the armpit.
Check how comfortable this gap is for you. You can add rows of hdcs to the front and back
panels to make the armhole wider, or you can sl st the panels together to make the armhole
smaller. Totally up to you and how you like this to fit!

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Continuing the body:

Sizing check: Through this next section, there will be occasional notes about
adding extra rows of hdcs. This makes the length of the coat from the armpit
downwards longer. The way this pattern is written, the size small is smallest both
in terms of width and length. Mediums are both wider and longer, etc. You may be
between sizes (like a large in the bust, but also only 5’0” tall). You can add or omit
these additional hdc rows to make a coat just the right length for your frame!
Measured from bottom of armhole to end of coat:

Small - 28” long
Medium - 29” long
Large - 30” long
X-Large - 31” long
XX-Large - 32” long
XXX-Large 33” long
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Attach to either front corner-

Row 15: Ch 3, 20, 22, 26, 30, 37, 43 bpdc. Dc2tog the last st of the front panel, and the first st
of the back panel (shown below). 40, 45, 50, 55, 62, 67 bpdc. Dc3tog the last st of the back
panel, and the first st of the second front panel. 20, 22, 26, 30, 37, 43 bpdc. (82, 91, 104, 117,
138, 155 sts total)
Rows 16-19:Ch 2, hdc across. (82, 91, 104, 117, 138, 155 hdc total). Fasten off.
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Surface stitch embellishment: Think of this section you just made as a neat, blank canvas. Do
an interesting surface stitch design here. You can do zig zags, or curves, or tendril patterns.
You can use more than one yarn. I like to use funky, textured yarns for my surface stitch
embellishments.
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Color change.
Row 20:Ch 3, bpdc across. (82, 91, 104, 117, 138, 155 hdc bpdc).
Row 21-22: Ch 2, hdc across. (82, 91, 104, 117 hdc total). Fasten off.
Change color.
Row 23: Ch 3 bpdc across. (82, 91, 104, 117, 138, 155 bpdc total).
Row 24: Ch 2, hdc across. (82, 91, 104, 117, 138, 155 hdc total). If working S-L, fasten off. If
working XL-3XL, continue on.
Row 24b: Ch 2, hdc across. (117, 138, 155 hdc). Fasten off.
Change color. Fasten onto back loops.

Row 25: Ch 3, dc in back loops across. (82, 91, 104, 117, 138, 155 dcs total).
Row 26: Ch 2, hdc across. (82, 91, 104, 117, 138, 155 hdc total). If working S-M, fasten off. If
working L-3XL, continue on.
Row 26b: Ch 2, hdc across. (104, 117, 138, 155 hdc total). Fasten off.
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Change color.
Row 27: Ch 3 bpdc across. (82, 91, 104, 117, 138, 155 bpdc total).
Row 28a:Ch 2, hdc across. (82, 91, 104, 117, 138, 155 hdc total)
Row 28b: Fasten your new color on the back loops, just next to where you started row 28a. C h
1 (counts as first sc), 2 sc. [Ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch 1. 5 sc in back loops.] Repeat
across. 1 sc. Fasten off.
Row 29:Picking up the color you used in row 28a. [ Ch 3, 3 dc in front loops, sc in dc5tog, 4 dc
in front loops.] Repeat across. Dc in remaining front loops. (82, 91, 104, 117, 138, 155 sts total)
Row 30: Ch 2, hdc across. (82, 91, 104, 117, 138, 155 sts total). If working sizes S-XL, fasten
off. If working sizes 2X-3X, c ontinue on.
Row 30b: Ch 2, hdc across. (138, 155 sts total). Fasten off.
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Change color.
Row 31: Ch 3, bpdc across. (82, 91, 104, 117, 138, 155 bpdc total).
Row 32: Ch 2, 25 hdc. Inc hdc, 30, 39, 52, 65, 86, 103 hdc. Inc dc, 25 hdc. (84, 93, 106, 119,
140, 157 hdc total).
Row 33: Ch 2, hdc across. (84, 93, 106, 119, 140, 157 hdc total). If working sizes S-2XL, fasten
off. If working size 3XL, continue on.
Row 33b: Ch 2, hdc across. (157 hdc total). Fasten off.
Change color.
Row 34: Ch 3, 30 bpdc. Inc bpdc, 22, 31, 44, 57, 78, 95 bpdc. Inc bpdc, 30 hdc. (86, 95, 108,
121 bpdctotal).
Row 35: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc across (86, 95, 108, 121, 142, 159 hdc total). If working
size S, fasten off. If working sizes M-3X, continue on.
Row 35b: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc across. (95, 108, 121, 142, 159 hdc total). Fasten off.
Change color.
For the next 4 rows, you will be working a pattern called Catherine’s Wheel. Rows 1 and 4 will
be a “border” color, and Rows 2 and 3 will be the center color. Rows 37-40 are all written
starting from the same corner. I cut off the end of each row, and rejoined at the start of each row
to make the instructions easier to follow. You are more than welcome to ch and turn, rather than
cut and start at the start of the row, if you feel like you have a good understanding of Catherine’s
Wheel!
Row 37: Each repeat of this motif is worked over 10 sts (there are 3 scs, and then 7dcs). That
means that regardless of what size you are working, you will end this row with only a partial
wheel complete. Just make sure that you are maintaining your stitch count, and there is nothing
wrong with fastening off with a partial wheel completed. Ch 1 (counts as first sc). 3 sc. [Sk 3 sts.
7 dc in next st. Sk 3 sts. 3 sc]. Repeat across. Fasten off.
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Row 38: Fasten on at first ch 1 / sc of row 37. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 3 sc. [Ch 3. dc7tog. Ch
3. 3 sc] Repeat across. Fasten off.
Row 39: Fasten on at first ch 1 / sc of row 38. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc. [3 sc, sk 3 sts. 7 in
next st. Sk 3 sts]. Repeat across. Fasten off.
Row 40: Fasten on at first ch 3 / dc of row 39. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 3 sc. [Ch 3. dc7tog. Ch
3. 3 sc] Repeat across. Continue onto row 41 without fastening off.
Row 41: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc). 25 hdc, inc dc, 34, 43, 56, 69, 90, 107 hdc. Inc hdc, 25 hdc.
Fasten off. (88, 97, 110, 123, 144, 161 hdc total). Fasten off.
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Choose a neat contrasting color / texture, and surface stitch around your Catherine’s Wheels to
really make them pop!
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Change color.
146, 163 hdc total). If working size S, fasten off. If working sizes M-3XL, continue on.
Row 43b: Ch 2, hdc across. (99, 112, 125, 146, 163 hdc total). Fasten off.
Change color.
Row 46: Ch 2, hdc across (92, 101, 114, 127, 148, 165 hdc total). Fasten off.
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Change color.
Row 47a: Ch 3, bpdc across. (92, 101, 114, 127, 148, 165 hdc total).
across. 1 sc in back loops. Fasten off.
in front loops.] Repeat across. Dc in last front loops across. (92, 101, 114, 127, 148, 165 sts
total).
Row 49: Ch 2, 25 hdc, inc hdc. 40, 49, 62, 75, 95, 113 hdc. Inc dc, 25 hdc. (94, 103, 116, 129,
150, 167 hdc total). If working size S-M, fasten off. If working sizes L-3XL, continue on.
Row 49b: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc). Hdc across. (116, 129, 150, 167 hdc total). Fasten off.
Change color.
Row 51: Ch 2, 20 hdc, inc hdc, 52, 61, 74, 87, 108, 125 hdc. Inc hdc, 20 hdc. Fasten off. (96,
105, 118, 131, 152, 169 hdc total)
154, 171 hdc total). If working sizes S-XL, fasten off. If working sizes 2X-3X, continue on.
Row 52b: Ch 2, hdc acorrs. (154, 171 hdc total). Fasten off.
Change color.
Row 54: Ch 2, 25 hdc. Inc hdc, 46, 55, 68, 81, 102, 119 hdc. Inc hdc, 25 hdc. (100, 109, 122,
135, 156, 173 hdc total).
Row 55: Ch 2, hdc across (100, 109, 122, 135, 156, 173 hdc total). Fasten off.
Color change. Fasten onto backloops of row 55.

137, 158, 175 hdc total)
Row 58: Ch 2, hdc across. (102, 11, 124, 137, 158, 175 hdc total).
Row 59: Ch 2, 25 hdc. Inc hdc, 50, 59, 72, 85, 106, 123. Inc hdc, 25 hdc. (104, 113, 126, 139,
160, 177 hdc total). Fasten off.
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Use rows 56-59 as a blank canvas for another section of funky surface stitch
embellishment! Here I did another section of waves, but have them going in the opposite
direction from the panel at the top of my coat. You can use multiple colors, a matching
pattern or a different one. Using a funky textured yarn also adds some interest!
Change color. Fasten onto backloops of row 59.

141, 162, 179 hdc total). If working sizes S-L, fasten off. If working XL-3XL, continue on.
Row 61b: Ch 2, hdc across. (141, 162, 179 hdc total). Fasten off.
Change color.
Row 63: Ch 3, 20 dc. Inc dc, 64, 73, 86, 99, 120, 137 dc. Inc dc, 20 dc. (108, 117, 130, 143,
164, 181 dc total). Fasten off.
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Change color.
Row 64a: Ch 3, bpdc across. (108, 117, 130, 143, 164, 181 bpdc total).
across. 1 sc. Fasten off.
in front loops.] Repeat across. Dc in last front loops. (108, 117, 130, 143, 164, 181 st total).
Row 66: Ch 2, hdc across.(108, 117, 130, 143, 164, 181 hdc total). If working sizes S-2XL,
fasten off. If working size 3XL, continue on.
Yay! You are done with the body of the coat!

1
Creating the Hood:

There are two hood options outlined in this pattern: A long, pointed hood
(as seen in the sea-themed coat), and a flat hood (as seen in the rainbow
coat)

The pointed hood option is written out on pgs 2-15

The flat hood option is written out on pgs 16-18

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Pointed Hood Pattern:

Rnd 1: Create a magic circle, and dc 6 times.
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout) 2 dc, inc dc, 2 dc, inc dc. Sl st to close. (8 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, 3 dc, inc dc, 3 dc, inc dc. Sl st to close. (10 dc). Fasten off.
Color change:
When you fasten on this new color, you will be wrapping the first ch around the back post of any
stitch in rnd 3.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, bpdc across. Sl st to close. (10 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch 3, 4 dc, inc dc, 4 dc, inc dc. Sl st to close. (12 dc)
Rnd 6: Ch 3, 5 dc, inc dc, 5 dc, inc dc. Sl st to close. (14 dc). Fasten off.
Color change:
stitch in rnd 6.
Rnd 7: Ch 3, dbpc across. Sl st to close. (14 dc)
Rnds 8: Ch 2, 6 dc, inc hdc, 6 dc, inc hdc. Sl st to close. (16 hdc). Fasten off.
Color change:
Fasten to the back loops anywhere on rnd 8.
Rnd 9a: Ch 3, 7 hdc, inc dc, 7 dc, inc hdc. Sl st to close (18 hdc). Do not fasten off, but choose
a new color.
Rnd 9b: Fasten your new color on the back loops, just next to where you started/finished rnd
h 1 (counts as first sc), 2 sc. [Ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch 1. 3 sc in back loops.]x2.
9a. C
Ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch 1. 4 sc in back loops. Ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch
1. Sc in back loops. Fasten off.
Rnd 10: P icking up the color you used in rnd 9a. [Ch 3, 3 dc in front loops, sc in dc5tog, 3 dc in
front loops.] x2. Sc in dc5tog, 4 dc in front loops. Sc in dc5tog, 1 dc in front loops. Sl st to close.
Rnd 11: Ch 3, 8dc, inc dc, 8dc, inc dc. Sl st to close. Fasten off. (20dc)
3
Color Change:
stitch in rnd 11.
Rnd 13: Ch 3, 9 dc, inc dc, 9 dc, inc dc. Sl st to close. Fasten off. (22 dc)
Color Change:
stitch in rnd 13.
Color Change:
stitch in rnd 15.
4
Surface stitch with a contrasting color across these three rows. If you have it on hand, funky
textured yarns make great surface embellishments! If you’re feeling wild, you can also do two
different colors!
Color Change:
stitch in rnd 18.
Color Change:
stitch in rnd 20.
Rnd 22a: Ch 3, 9 dc, inc dc, 9 dc, inc dc, 9 dc, inc dc. Sl st to close. Fasten off. (33 dc)
5
Color change (fuzzy yarn)

If you have a fuzzy or textured yarn that you have in your collection, this is the time to use it!
Rnd 22b: Fasten on to the front loops of any st in rnd 22a. Sc in front loops around. Sl st to
close. Fasten off. (33 sc)
Color change:
Fasten on to the backloop of any st in rnd 22a.
Rnd 23: Ch 3, 33 dc. Sl st to close. (33dc)
Rnd 24: Ch 3,10 dc, inc dc, 10 dc, inc dc, 10 dc, inc dc. Sl st to close. Fasten off. (36 dc)
Color Change:
stitch in rnd 24.
Rnd 26a: Ch 2, hdc across. Sl st to close. (36 dc). Do not fasten off, but choose a second color
to make bobble stitches, and fasten on new color one st over from the start/end of rnd 26.
Rnd 26b: Ch 1, 4 sc, ch 1, dc5tog, ch 1. [4 sc, ch1, dc5tog, ch 1] x 6. Sl st to the first sc of rnd
26b. Fasten off with this color.
Rnd 27: Ch 3, 4 dc, sc in dc5tog. [4dc, sc in dc5tog] x 6. Sc in dc5tog, sl st to close. (36 dc)
Rnd 28: Ch 3, 11 dc, inc dc, 11 dc, inc dc, 11 dc, inc dc. Sl st to close. Fasten off. (39 dc)
6
Color change:
stitch in rnd 28.
Rnd 29: Ch 3, bpdc across. Sl st to close. (39 dc).
Rnd 30: Ch 3, 12 dc, inc dc, 12 dc, inc dc, 12 dc, inc dc. Sl st to close. Fasten off. (42 dc).
Color change:
stitch in rnd 30.
Rnd 31: Ch 3, bpdc across. Sl st to close. (42 dc).
Rnd 32: Ch 3, 13 dc, inc dc, 13 dc, inc dc, 13 dc, inc dc. Sl st to close. Fasten off. (45 dc).
Mark one stitch, anywhere on rnd 32. Mark a second st 15 sts apart from the first marker.
7
Color change:
Fasten on to the right-side marker.
Bottom row 1: Ch 2, 2 hdc, 11 dc, 2 hdc. (15 sts total). Fasten off.
Bottom row 2. Move ride-side st marker to the right one st. Move left-side st marker to the left
one st. Fasten on to ride-side st marker. Ch 2, inc hdc, 15 dc, inc hdc,. Fasten off. (19 sts total).
8
Color change:
Fasten on anywhere on rnd 32. When you fasten on this new color, you will be wrapping the first
ch around the back post of any stitch in rnd 32.
Rnd 33: Ch 3, bpdc around to bottom row 2. Bpdc around to the left-side marked st on rnd 30,
inc bpdc in marked st. Bpdc across bottom row 2, inc bpdc into second marked st on rnd 30.
Bpdc across. Sl st to close. (49 sts total).
Rnd 34: Ch 3, dc across. Inc dc in the first st of the inc bpdc in rnd 31. Dc across, and inc dc in
second at of the second inc bpdc in rnd 31. Dc across. Sl st to close. (51 sts total). Fasten off.
9
Remove original st markers. Place a new st marker in the exact middle of bottom row 2. Place
two st markers 5 sts to the left and right of the bottom center st marker. Place a marker in the
exact middle of the top of the hood.
10
Color change:
Fasten on to left-side bottom st marker.
Hood row 1: Ch 2, inc in first st. 19 hdc, inc in st marker, 19 hdc, inc dc. (44 sts)
Hood row 2: Ch 2, inc hdc in first st, hdc. Sk 3 sts, 7 dc in same st. Sk 3 sts, 3 sc. Sk 3 sts, 7
dc in same st, sk 2 sts. 3 sc. [Sk 3 sts, 7 dc in same st, sk 3 sts. 3 sc.] x 2. Sk 3 sts, 4 dc in
same st. Inc dc in final st. Fasten off. (5 semi-circles total).
11
Color change:
Fasten on to left-side corner, the same corner where you started hood row 1.
Hood row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc. 3dctog, ch 3. [3 sc, ch 3, 7dctog, ch 3. ] x4. 2 sc, 2 hdc.
Hood row 4: Ch 2, inc hdc in first st. 24 hdc, inc hdc, 24 hdc, inc hdc. (54 hdc). If working sizes
S-XL, fasten off. If working sizes 2XL-3XL, continue on.
Hood row 4b: Ch 2, hdc across. (54 hdc). Fasten off.
Choose a contrasting color, and do a surface st between hood rows 2 and 3. This highlights the
fun shape you just made!
12
Color change:
Fasten onto either corner, and work the next row across the bottom of the hood.
Hood rnd 5: Ch 3, dc across (28, 28, 28, 28, 32, 32 dc), ch 1, 54 bpdc, ch 1, sl st to close.
Hood rnd 6: Ch 3, 14 dc, inc dc, 13 dc. In ch 1 sp, dc, ch 1, dc. 26, indc hdc, 27 hdc. In ch 1 sp,
dc, ch 1, dc. Sl st to close. (88, 88, 88, 88, 92, 92 sts total) Fasten off.
13
14
Color change:
Fasten onto either corner of the bottom of the hood. When you fasten on this new color, you will
be wrapping the first ch around the back post.
Hood rnd 7: Ch 3, 29 bpdc. In ch 1 corner sp: 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Turn corner, 59 bpdc. In ch 1
corner sp: 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Sl st to close. (96, 96, 96, 96, 100, 100 sts)
Hood rnd 7b: Ch 1, 4 sc in back loops, ch 1, dc5tog, ch 1. [4 sc, ch1, dc5tog, ch 1] x 6. Sl st to
the first sc of rnd 26b. Fasten off with this color.
Hood rnd 8: Ch 3, [4 dc in front loops, sc in dc5tog] x repeat across. In ch 1 corner sp: 2 dc, ch
1, 2 dc. [4 dc in front loops, sc in dc5tog] x repeat across. In ch 1 corner sp: 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. [4
dc in front loops, sc in dc5tog] x repeat across. Sl st to close. (104, 104, 104, 104, 108, 108,
sts).
15
If working a S or M:
Fasten off. Reattach at either bottom corner. Dc across bottom (37 st total). Do not fasten off,
but continue to hood attachment section below.
If working a L or Xl:
corner sp: 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Sl st to close. (112 sts). Fasten off. Reattach at either bottom corner.
Dc across bottom (41 st total). Do not fasten off, but continue to hood attachment section below.
If working a 2XL or 3XL:

corner sp: 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Sl st to close. (116 sts).
Hood rnd 10: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc). Hdc around. In ch 1 corner sp: 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. (124
sts). Fasten off.
Reattach at either bottom corner. Dc across bottom (45 st total). Do not fasten off, but continue
to pg 19 for attaching the hood to the body of the coat.
16
Flat Hood Pattern:

If you like a close-fitting hood, or if you are petite, work the smaller size of this hood. If
you would like an oversized hood (with a wide opening and a lot of drape), or if you are
particularly tall and need a bigger hood, work the larger size.
Row 1: Ch 61, 71. Hdc in 2nd ch from hook (counts as first two hdc). Hdc across. (60, 70 hdc
total).
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc across. (60, 70 hdc total). If working S-XL, fasten off. If working 2XL-3XL,
continue on.
Row 2b: C h 2, hdc across. (60, 70 hdc total). Fasten off.
Color change.
Row 3: Ch 3 , bpdc across. (60, 70 sts total)
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc across. (60, 70 hdc total). Fasten off.
Color change.
Row 5: Ch 3, bpdc across. (60, 70 sts total).
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc. [Sk 3 sts, 7 dc in 4th st. Sk 3 sts, 3 sc]. Repeat 4, 6 times. Sk 3, 7dc in 4th
st. Sc in last st. Fasten off.
Color change. Fasten onto first st of row 4.

Row 7: Ch 3, dc4tog. [Ch 3, 3 sc. Ch 3, dc7tog]. Repeat 4, 6 times. 3 sc.
Row 8: Ch 2, hdc across. (60, 70 sts total). Fasten off.
Color change.
Row 9: Ch 3, bpdc across. (60, 70 sts total). If working size S-M, fasten off. If working size
L-3XL, continue on.
Row 9b: C h 2, hdc across. (60, 70 sts total). Fasten off.
17
Color change.
Row 10: Ch 3, bpdc across. (60, 70 sts total). If working size S-L, fasten off. If working size
XL-3XL, continue on.
Color change.
Row 11a: Ch 3, bpdc across. (60, 70 sts total). If working sizes S-2XL, continue onto making
your bobbles. If working size 3XL, add another row of hdc across before continuing on.
Row 11b: Fasten on with a new color at the start of row 11a in backloops. Sc 2 in back loops.
[Dc5tog in 3rd st. Ch 1, 4 sc in back loops ]. Repeat across. 1 sc. Fasten off.
Row 12: Ch 3, 2 dc in front loops. [1 sc in dc5tog, 4 dc in front loops]. Repeat across. 2 dc in
front loops. If working size S-XL, fasten off. If working size 2XL-3XL, continue on.
Row 12b: Ch 2, hdc across. (60 , 70 sts total). Fasten off.
18
Fold the hood in half, with the wrong side facing outwards. Sl st a seam along row 1, and fasten
off. Continue to pg 42 for attaching the hood to the body of the coat.
19
Attaching the hood to the body:

Lay out the hood and the body of the coat. You will be sl stitching these together.
20
Make sure your seam is on the inside of the coat, so it appears seamless from the outside.
Here you can see the sl st seam is on the inside of the coat.
21
This is also a great opportunity to “bury” all your ends from making your hood!
22
Working the trim:

This is a fantastic way to “bury” all your ends from working the body of the coat! Attach to either
bottom corner of the coat. Hdc across the entirety of the front of the coat. When working into the
sides of rows: for dcs, work 2 hdc. And work 1 hdc into the side of each hdc. D o not fasten off.
23
24
Work row 1 of Catherine’s wheel st across the trim:

Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3 dc in second st. [Sk 3 sts, 3 sc, 7dctog in next st]. Repeat all the way
around.
25
The “colored” center rows (rows 2-3 of Catherine’s wheel) is going to be worked in different
colored sections. This means that each eye is going to be worked separately.
The first colored wheel: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 2 sc. Ch 3, 7dctog, ch 3, 2 sc. Ch 1, turn. Sc,
sk 3, 7 dc in same st. Sk 3, 2 sc. Fasten off.
26
The second (and all following) wheels: Fasten on new color next to where you left off with your
previous “wheel”. C h 1, 1 sc. Ch 3, 7dctog, ch 3, 2 sc. Ch 1, turn, sc, sk 3, 7 dc in same st. Sk 3, 1 sc. Sl
st through ch 1 of first wheel. Fasten off. Repeat this around the entire trim.
27
Complete Catherine’s Wheel stitch rows 2-3 in different colored sections across the entire trim.
Work Catherine’s Wheel stitch row 4 with the same color you completed with row 1.
Row 4: Ch 3, dc4tog, ch 3. 3 sc. [Ch 3, dc7tog, ch 3. 3 sc]. Repeat across the entire trim.
Row 5: Ch 2, hdc across the entire trim. Fasten off.
28
Attach with an accent color at the bottom front corner of the trim section, where it meets the
body of the coat.
Sc across the bottom of the trim section. At the corner: Ch 3, sl st into first ch. (This is called a
picot). Then turn, and sc along the front of the trim.
29
When you get to the other side, picot at the corner, and sc across the bottom of the trim. Do not
fasten off. Instead, turn, and surface stitch along where the trim meets the body of the coat:
Fasten off once you’ve made it all the way around.

30
Select two more colors, and surface stitch along your colored “eyes”, criss-crossing over them to
emphasize their shape and color!
Congratulations! I know the trim is a ton of work!

Sleeves are next.
31
Working the sleeves:

So you can rock this sleeveless, and wear this like a super epic vest.
Simply work rounds 1-3, and you’re good to go!

Sizing check: Through this next section, there will be occasional notes about
adding extra rows of hdcs. This makes the length of the sleeves from the arm
seam downwards longer. The way this pattern is written, the size small is
smallest both in terms of width and length. Mediums are both wider and longer,
etc. You can add or omit these additional hdc rows to make sleeves just the right
length for your frame!
Measured from arm seam to to end of sleeves:

Small - 20” long
Medium - 20.5” long
Large - 21” long
X-Large - 21” long
XX-Large - 21.5” long
XXX-Large 21.5” long

32
Rnd 1: Fasten on anywhere onto your armhole. Ch 2 and hdc around (44, 44, 52, 52, 60, 60
hdc).
Mark the bottom of the armhole. Over the following rounds, you are going to decrease at this
mark. However, each time you join a new color, you should start somewhere random on the
round. This avoids creating a visible “seam” created by your ch 3 starting dcs along the sleeve.
Since you should be starting each new color at a random point in the round, you will need to
decrease (dc2tog) at the bottom of the armhole at the point you have marked.
Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc around with a hdc2tog at the marked st. Sl st into first hdc to close. (43, 43,
51, 51, 59, 59 hdc total).
Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc around with a hdc2tog at the marked st. Sl st into first hdc to close (42, 42, 50,
50, 58, 58 hdc total). Fasten off.
33
Color change. Fasten anywhere on rnd 3. When you fasten on this new color, you will be
wrapping the first ch around the back post.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, bpdc around with a bp2dctog at the marked st. Sl st into first bpdc to close. (39,
39, 46, 46, 54, 54 hdc total).
45, 45, 53, 53 hdc total).
44, 44, 52, 52 hdc total). Fasten off.
Color change. Fasten onto backloops anywhere on rnd 3.

Rnd 7: Ch 2, hdc in backloops around with a hd2ctog at the marked st. Sl st into first hdc to
close. (41, 41, 49, 49, 57, 57 hdc total).
48, 48, 56, 56 hdc total). If working size S-M, fasten off. If working size L-3XL, continue on.
Rnd 8b: C h 2, hdc around with a hdc2tog at the marked st. Sl st into first hdc to close. Fasten
off. (47, 47, 55, 55 hdc total)
Color change: Fasten anywhere on rnd 8. When you fasten on this new color, you will be
Rnd 9a: Ch 3, bpdc acround with a bpdc2tog at the marked st. Sl st into first bpdc to close. (36,
36, 43, 43, 51, 51 bpdc total)
34
Rnd 9b: Ch 1, 2 sc in backloops, ch 1, dc5tog through front loops ch 1. [4 sc back loops, ch1,
dc5tog, ch 1] x 6, 8, 10 times. 1 sc. Fasten off with this color.
Rnd 10: Ch 3, 3 dc in front loops, 1 sc through top of dc5tog. Repeat around, remembering to
dc2tog at the marked st. (35, 35, 42, 42, 50, 50 sts total). Fasten off.

Rnd 11: Ch 2, hdc in backloops around with a hd2ctog at the marked st. Sl st into first hdc to
close. (34, 34, 41, 41, 49, 49 hdc total).
40, 40, 48, 48 hdc total). Fasten off.
35
Rnd 13: Ch 3, bpdc around with a bpdc2tog at the marked st. Sl st into first hdc to close. (32,
32, 39, 39, 47, 47 bpdc total).
Sizes S-M will stop decreasing at this point. Sizes L-3XL will continue to decrease at the marked stitch
to taper the sleeve smaller.
Rnd 14: Ch 2, hdc around. If working sizes L-3XL hdc2tog at the marked st. Sl st into first hdc to
close. (32,32, 38, 38, 46, 46 bpdc total).
Rnd 15: Ch 2, hdc around. If working sizes L-3XL a hdc2tog at the marked st. S l st into first hdc
to close. (32, 32, 37, 37, 45, 45 hdc total).
Rnd 16: Ch 3, hdc around. If working sizes L-3XL a hdc2tog at the marked st. S l st into the first
hdc to close (32, 32, 36, 36, 44, 44 hdc total). Fasten off.
Across rnds 13-16, use this space as a blank canvas for some neat surface
embellishments!
Rnd 17: Ch 3, bpdc around. If working sizes L-3XL, bpdc2tog at marked st. Sl st into first bpdc
to close. (32, 32, 35, 35, 43, 43 hdc total).
Rnd 18: Ch 2, hdc around. If working sizes L-3XL, hdc2tog at marked st. Sl st into first hdc to
close. (32, 32, 34, 34, 42, 42 hdc total). If working size S, fasten off. If working sizes M-3XL,
continue on.
Rnd 18b: Ch 2, hdc around, with an hdc2tog for sizes L-3XL. (32, 33, 33, 41, 41 hdc total).
Fasten off.
36
Rnd 19: Ch 3, bpdc around. If working sizes 2L-3XL, bpdc2tog at marked st. Sl st into first bpdc
to close. (32, 32, 32, 32, 40, 40 bpdc total).

Sizes L-XL will stop decreasing at this point. Sizes 2XL-3XL will continue to decrease at the marked
stitch to taper the sleeve smaller.
Rnd 20: Ch 2, hdc around. If working sizes 2L-3XL, hdc2tog at marked st. Sl st into first hdc to
close. (32, 32, 32, 32, 39, 39 hdc total). Fasten off.

Rnd 21: Ch 2, hdc in backloops around. If working sizes 2L-3XL, hdc2tog at marked st. Sl st
into first hdc to close. (32, 32, 32, 32, 38, 38 hdc total).
Rnd 22: Ch 2, hdc around. If working sizes 2L-3XL, hdc2tog at marked st. Sl st into first hdc to
close. (32, 32, 32, 32, 37, 37 hdc total). If working size S-XL, fasten off. If working sizes
2XL-3XL, continue on.
Rnd 22b: Ch 2, hdc around, with an hdc2tog at marked st. (36, 36 hdc total).
Sizes 2XL-3XL will stop decreasing here. However, if you would like a more tapered sleeve, rather than
a bell sleeve, you can of course continue to decrease at your marked st until you have your desired
sleeve width.
Color change: Fasten onto any backloops on rnd 22.

Rnd 23: Ch 2, 2 sc in backloops. Spike st into rnd 21. [3 sc, spike st into rnd 21.]. Repeat
around. Hdc in last st. Sl st to close. (32, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36 sc total)
Rnd 24: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to close. (32, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36, hdc total). Fasten off.
37
Color change: Fasten one st to the right of any spike st from rnd 23.
Rnd 25: Ch 2, 3 sc in backloops. Spike st into rnd 31. [3 hdc, spike st into rnd 23.]. Repeat
around. Hdc in last st. Sl st to close. (32, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36 hdc total)
38
Color change: Fasten one st to the right of any spike st from rnd 26.
Rnd 27: Ch 2, 3 sc in backloops. Spike st into rnd 25. [3 hdc, spike st into rnd 25.]. Repeat
around. Hdc in last st. Sl st to close. (32, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36 hdc total)
Rnd 29: Ch 3, bpdc around. Sl st into first bpdc to close. (32, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36 bpdc total).
Rnd 30: Ch 2, hdc across. Sl st into first hdc. (32, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36, hdc total). Fasten off.
39

Rnd 33a: Ch 2, hdc in backloops around. Sl st into first hdc to close. (32, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36 hdc
total).
Rnd 33b: Ch 1, 1 sc in backloops, ch 1, dc5tog through front loops ch 1. [3 sc back loops, ch1,
dc5tog, ch 1] Repeat around. 1 sc. Fasten off with this color.
Rnd 34: Ch 3, 1 dc in front loops, 1 sc through top of dc5tog. Repeat around, remembering to
dc2tog at the marked st. (32, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36 sts total)
Rnd 35: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first hdc to close. (32, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36 hdc). Fasten off.
If you would like your sleeve to be longer, you can repeat rnds 36-37!
40
Option: Pockets!

The pockets are essentially a mini version of rows 32-41 of the body. You will want to
match up your colors that you used for these sections of the body to make “invisible”
pockets.

You could also go wild and choose different colors for pockets that really pop!

Row 1: Ch 19. Hdc into 3rd st from hook (counts as first two hdcs). Hdc across. (18 hdc total)
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc across. (18 hdc total). If working sizes S-2XL, fasten off. If working size 3XL,
continue on.

Color change. Fasten new color onto back post of row 2.
Row 3: Ch 3, bpdc across. (18 bpdc)
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc across. (18 hdc) If working size S, fasten off. If working size M-3XL, continue on.

Color change. Fasten new color onto back post of row 4.
Row 5: Ch 3, bpdc across. (18 bpdc).
Row 6: Ch 3, 3 dc in next st. Sk 3 sts. 3 sc. Sk 3 sts, 7 dc in next st. Sk 3 sts. 3 sc. Fasten off.

Color change. Fasten onto first dc of row 4.
Row 7: Ch 1, 3 sc. Ch 3, dc7tog, ch 3. 3 sc. Dc3tog. Ch 1. Dc in final st.
Row 8: Ch 3, 3 dc in next st. Sk 3 sts. 3 sc. Sk 3 sts. 7 dc in next st. Sk 3 sts. 3 sc. Fasten off.

Color change. Fasten onto last st of row 6.
Row 9: Ch 3, dc3tog. Ch 3, 3 sc, ch 3. Dc7tog, ch 3, 3 sc.
Row 10: Ch 2, hdc across (18 hdc total) Fasten off.

Do your matching surface st along the wheels to match your coat!
41

Choose a color, and sc around three edges of your pockets. I personally prefer to sew
my pockets on, but you could also sl st your pockets on.
Mini Technicolor Dream Coat
(Sizes 3T through 7Y)

Getting started:
Here is a sizing chart for your use. The pattern is going to be laid out as 3-4T, 4-5T, 6-7Y
throughout the instructions.
Size Height (inches) Chest (inches) Waist (inches)
3-4T 37-41 21 20
4-5T 41-45 22 20
6-7Y 45-49 24 21
Materials:
You can use any worsted weight yarn for this pattern. I personally chose to work with Knit Pick’s
Brava yarn. This pattern is a fantastic stash buster, so you are free to use up any odds and
ends that you have! For ease, I have included the exact colors that I have used throughout this
pattern, and each color change has the name of the next color used in the pattern. You
absolutely do not have to follow this color scheme, but it is included for reference.
Yarns - Knit Pick’s Brava Worsted Weight:

Lady Slipper, Fairy Tale, Freesia, Mulberry, Celestial, Cornflower, Tranquil, Marina, Grass,
Alfalfa, Avocado, Custard, Canary, Caution, Orange, Coral, Paprika, Red, Wine
Hook:
H/ 5.00mm
I was able to complete two coats with the yarn above, and I had plenty of leftover. If I wanted to
make another one or two coats (depending on size), I would need another skein of Red and
Mulberry.
Joining rows:

ubiquitously used the term “backpost dc”.



Back panel:
Color - Lady Slipper
Row 1: Ch 38, 42, 46. Dc into 3rd ch from hook (counts as first two dcs). Dc 36, 40, 44 across.
Row 1 should measure 10.5”, 11.5”, 12.5” across. For size 3T-4T, fasten off. For sizes 4T-7Y,
continue on.
Row 1b: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc throughout), hdc across. (36, 40, 44 hdcs total). Fasten off.
Color - Freesia
Row 2a: Ch 3, dc in backloops across. (36, 40, 44 hdcs total). Do not fasten off, but choose a
new color. Color shown here is Fairy Tale.
Row 3: Picking up the color you used in row 2a. Ch 3, 3 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 3 dc in
front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. (36, 40, 44 sts total).
Color - Mulberry
If working size 6-7T, work row 4a. If working sizes 3-5T, skip ahead to row 4b.
Row 4a: Ch 3, hdc across in back loops (44 sts total).
Row 4b: Ch 3. [In back loops for sizes 3-5T: hdc, 3 sc, hdc, dc, tc, dc] and repeat across. (36,
40, 44 sts total) Fasten off.

Row 5: Fasten on at start of row 4b. Ch 1 (counts as first sc throughout), 1 sc. [Sc3tog over 3sc
from row 4b. 2 sc. In tc from row 4b, work 3 scs. 2 sc.] Repeat across. (36, 40, 44 sts total)
Fasten off.
Color - Fairy Tale
Row 6: Fasten onto where you began row 5. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc). [Working in back loops:
Dc, tc, dc, hdc, 3 sc, hdc.] Repeat across. (36, 40, 44 sts total)
Row 7: Ch 3, dc across. (36, 40, 44 sts total). Fasten off
Color - Celestial
Row 8: Ch 3, bpdc across. (36, 40, 44 sts total).
Row 9: Ch 3, dc across. (36, 40, 44 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Cornflower
Row 11: Ch 2, hdc across. (36, 40, 44 sts total). Fasten off.
Front panels (make 2):
Row 1 should measure 5.25”, 5.75”, 6.25” across. For size 3-4y, fasten off. For sizes 4-7y,
continue on.
Row 1b: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc throughout), hdc across. (18, 20, 22 hdcs total). Fasten off.
Color - Freesia
Row 2a: Ch 3, dc in backloops across. (18, 20, 22 hdcs total). Do not fasten off, but choose a
new color. Color shown here is Fairy Tale.
Row 3: P icking up the color you used in row 2a. C
h 3, 3 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 3 dc in
front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. (18, 20, 22 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Mulberry
Row 4a: Ch 3, hdc across in back loops(22 sts total).

Row 5: Fasten on at start of row 4b. Ch 1 (counts as first sc throughout), 1 sc. [Sc3tog over 3sc
from row 4b. 2 sc. In tc from row 4b, work 3 scs. 2 sc.] Repeat across. (18, 20, 22 sts total)
Fasten off.
Color - Fairy Tale

Dc, tc, dc, hdc, 3 sc, hdc.] Repeat across. (18, 20, 22 sts total)
Row 7: Ch 3, dc across. (18, 20, 22 sts total). Fasten off
Color - Celestial
Color - Cornflower

Creating the Shoulder Seams:
Place your front panels on top of your back panel, with the “right” side of all panels facing
inwards. With the “wrong” side facing outwards, starting from each corner, sl st 9, 11, 13 sts to
create the first shoulder seam. Repeat on the other side. This seam will be on the inside of the
coat. Flip your coat right side out, and continue.
Starting the body of the coat:
Color - Marina
Row 12a: Attach to either front corner. C h 2, 18, 20, 22 hdc in back loops. Continue on by
hdc’ing into the first st of the back panel. 36, 40, 44 hdc in back loops across back panel.
Continue on by hdc’ing into the first st of the next front panel. 18, 20, 22 hdc in back loops. (72,
80, 88 hdc total). If working size 3T-4T, continue onto row 12c. If working sizes 4T-7Y, continue
onto row 12b.
Row 12b: Ch 2, hdc across. (80, 88 hdc total).
Row 12c: Fasten your new color on the back loops, just next to where you started row 12a or
12b. Shown here is the color Tranquil. Ch 1 (counts as first sc throughout), 3 sc. Ch 1, dc5tog
through front loops, ch 1. [4 sc in back loops, ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch 1]. Repeat
across. 1 sc . Fasten off.
Row 13: P icking up the color you used in row 12a. Ch 3, 4 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 4 dc
in front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. (72, 80, 88 sts total). Fasten off.
Color- Tranquil
Row 14: Ch 3, dc in back loops across. (72, 80, 88 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Grass
Row 15: Ch 2, hdc in back loops across. (72, 80, 88 sts total).
Wheel!
Color - Alfalfa
Color - Grass
Row 20: Ch 2, 15 hdc across. Inc hdc. 40, 48, 56 hdc. Inc hdc. 15 hdc. (74, 82, 90 sts total).
Fasten off.
Color - Avocado
Row 21: Ch 3, bpdc across. (74, 82, 90 sts total)
Row 22: Ch 2, 25 hdc. Inc hdc. 24, 32, 40 hdc. Inc hdc. 25 hdc. (76, 84, 92 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Custard
Row 23: Ch 3, 20 bpdc. Inc bpdc. 34, 42, 50 bpdc. Inc bpdc. 20 bpdc. (78, 86, 94 sts total). If
working size 3T-4T, fasten off. If working 4T-6Y, continue on.
Color - Canary
Row 24a: Ch 2, 15 hdc in back loops. Inc hdc in back loops. 46, 54, 62 hdc in back loops. Inc
hdc. 15 hdc in back loops. (80, 88, 96 sts total). Don’t fasten off.
Color- Custard
1 (counts as first sc throughout), 2 sc. Ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch 1. [4 sc in back
loops, ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch 1]. Repeat across. 1 sc . Fasten off.
Row 25: Picking up the color you used in row 24a. C h 3, 3 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 4 dc
in front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. (80, 88, 96 sts total). If working size 3-5T, fasten off
here. If working 6-7Y, continue on.
Row 25b: Ch 2, 25 hdc. Inc hdc. 44 hdc. Inc hdc. 25 hdc. (98 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Custard
Row 26a: Ch 3, hdc in back loops across (98 sts total).
Color - Canary
h 1 (counts as first sc throughout), 1 sc. [Sc3tog over
Row 27: Fasten on at start of row 26b. C
3sc from row 26b. 2 sc. In tc from row 26b, work 3 scs. 2 sc.] Repeat across. (80, 88, 98 sts
total) Fasten off.
Color - Orange
Row 28: Fasten onto where you began row 25. C h 2 (counts as first hdc). [Working in back
loops: Dc, tc, dc, hdc, 3 sc, hdc.] Repeat across. (80, 88, 98 sts total)
Row 29: Ch 3, 25 dc. Inc dc. 30, 38, 48 dc. Inc dc. 25 dc. (82, 90, 100 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Caution
Color - Coral
Row 33a: Ch 2, 25 hdc. Inc hdc. 32, 40, 50 hdc. Inc hdc. 25 hdc. (86, 94, 104 sts total).
Color - Orange
in front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. (86, 94, 104 sts total). If working size 3-5T, fasten
off here. If working 6-7Y, continue on.
Row 34b: Ch 2, hdc across. (104 sts total). Fasten off.
Optional decoration:
Color - Paprika. Going back to row 30-31, surface stitch in a cute little wiggly pattern! This just
adds a pop of color and texture to this area.
Color - Paprika
Row 35: Ch 3, 20 dc in back loops. Inc dc in back loops. 44, 52, 62 dc in back loops. Inc dc in
back loops. 20 dc in back loops. (88, 96, 106 sts total).
Row 36: Ch 2, 25 hdc. Inc hdc. 36, 44, 54 hdc. Inc hdc. 25 hdc. (90, 98, 108 sts total). Fasten
off.
Color - Wine
Color - Red
Color - Wine
3. 3 sc] Repeat across.
Row 39: Ch 2, 15 hdc across. Inc hdc. 58, 66, 76 hdc. Inc hdc. 15 hdc. (92, 100, 110 sts total)
Fasten off.
Color - Red
Row 41: Ch 2, 20 hdc. Inc hdc. 50, 58, 68 hdc. Inc hdc. 20 hdc. (94, 102, 112 sts total). If
working size 3-4T, fasten off. If working sizes 4-7Y, continue on.
Adding Sleeves:
Fasten on anywhere on the armhole. Each time you fasten off and start with a new color, you
will be fastening onto a new, random spot around the sleeve. This prevents a “seam” from
forming, giving the sleeve a smoother look.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), and hdc into the sides of the sts making up the armhole. Work
2 hdc into the side of each dc, and work 1 hdc into the side of each hdc. Sl st to first st to close.
(38, 40, 42 sts total).
Rnd 2: Mark the two sts that make up the “bottom” of the arm hole (where the armpit would go).
You will be decreasing twice at the bottom of the armhole for the following rounds. Ch 2, hdc
around. Dec twice at marked sts. Hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (36, 38, 40 sts total).
Fasten off.
Color - Freesia
Rnd 3a: Ch 3, dc around. Dec twice at marked sts. Dc around. Sl st to first st to close. (34, 36,
38 sts total).
Color - Fairy Tale
Rnd 3b: Fasten your new color on the back loops, just next to where you started row aa. C h1
Rnd 4: Picking up the color you used in row 3a. Ch 3, 2 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 3 dc in
front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. Sl st to first sl to close. (34, 36, 38 sts total) Fasten off.
Color - Cornflower
Rnd 5: Fasten onto back loops. Ch 3, dc around. Dec twice at marked sts. Dc around. Sl st to
first st to close. (32, 34, 36 sts total). If working size 3-4T, fasten off. If working sizes 4-6Y,
continue on.
Rnd 5b: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (34, 36 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Celestial
Rnd 6: Fasten around the post of any st on rnd 5. Ch 3, bpdc across. Sl st to first st to close.
(32, 34, 38 sts total).
Rnd 7: Ch 2, hdc around. Dec twice in marked sts. Hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (30, 32,
34 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Marina
(30, 32, 34 sts total).
Color - Grass
Rnd 9a: Fasten onto backloops. Ch 3, dc around. Dec twice in marked sts. Dc around. Sl st to
first st to close. (28, 30, 32 sts total).
Color - Alfalfa
Rnd 9b: Fasten onto backloops, just next to where you started row 9a. C h 1 (counts as first sc
throughout), 2 sc. Ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch 1. [3 sc in back loops, ch 1, dc5tog
through front loops, ch 1]. Repeat across. 1 sc . Fasten off.
Rnd 10: P icking up the color you used in row 9a. C
front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. Sl st to first st to close. (28, 30, 32 sts total) If working
size 3-4T, fasten off. If working sizes 4-6Y, continue on.
Color - Avocado
Rnd 11: Fasten onto backloops. Ch 3, dc around. Sl st to first st to close. (28, 30, 34 sts total). If
working size 3-5T fasten off. If working sizes 5-6Y, continue on.
Rnd 11b: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (32 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Custard
Rnd 12: Fasten onto the post of any st on rnd 11. Ch 3, bpdc around. Sl st to first st to close.
(28, 30, 34 sts total).
Rnd 13: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (28, 30, 32 sts total).
Color - Canary
(28, 30, 34 sts total). If working sizes 3-5T, fasten off. If working size 6-7Y, continue on.
Rnd 14b: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (32 sts total).
Color - Orange
Rnd 15a: Fasten onto backloops. Ch 3, dc in backloops around. Sl st to first st to close. (28, 30,
32 sts total).
Color - Caution
Rnd 15b: Fasten onto backloops, just next to where you started row 15a. C h 1 (counts as first
sc throughout), 2 sc. Ch 1, dc5tog through front loops, ch 1. [3 sc in back loops, ch 1, dc5tog
Rnd 16: P icking up the color you used in row 15a. Ch 3, 2 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 3 dc
in front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. Sl st to first st to close. (28, 30, 32 sts total). Fasten
off.
Color - Paprika
Rnd 17: Fasten onto backloops. Ch 3, dc in backloops around. Sl st to first st to close. (28, 30,
34 sts total). If working size 3-5Y, fasten off. If working size 6-7Y, continue on.
Rnd 17b: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (32 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Coral
(28, 30, 34 sts total).
Rnd 19: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (28, 30, 32 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Wine
Rnd 20a: Fasten onto the post of any st on rnd 19. Ch 3, bpdc around. Sl st to first st to close.
(28, 30, 34 sts total). If working size 3-4T, continue onto rnd 22c. If working size 4-7Y, continue
onto rnd 22b.
Rnd 20b: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (30, 32 sts total)
Color - Red
Rnd 20c: Fasten onto backloops. C h 1 (counts as first sc throughout), 2 sc. Ch 1, dc5tog
Rnd 21: P icking up the color you used in row 20c. Ch 3, 2 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 3 dc
off.
Color - Red
Rnd 22: Fasten onto backloops. Ch 2, hdc in backloops around. Sl st to first st to close. (28, 30,
32 sts total). If working size 3-4T, fasten off. If working sizes 4-6Y, continue on.
Rnd 22a: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (30, 32 sts total). Fasten off.
Making the hood:
Color - Wine
Row 1: Ch 72, 72, 77. Dc in 3nd ch from hook (counts as first two dc). Dc across. (70, 70, 75
sts total).
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc across. (70. 70, 75 sts total)..
Color - Red
Row 3: Ch 3 , bpdc across. (70, 70, 75 sts total)
Color - Coral
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc. [Sk 3 sts, 7 dc in 4th st. Sk 3 sts, 3 sc]. Repeat across. Sk 3, 7dc in 4th st.
Sc in last st. (70, 70, 75 sts total) Fasten off.
Color - Orange
Row 5: Ch 3, dc4tog. [Ch 3, 3 sc. Ch 3, dc7tog]. Repeat across. (70, 70, 75 sts total)
Color - Caution
Color - Custard
Row 9: Ch 3, bpdc across. (70, 70, 75 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Grass
Row 10a: Ch 3, dc in back loops across. (60, 70 sts total).
Color - Alfalfa
front loops.
Row 12: Ch 2, hdc across. (70 , 70, 75 sts total). Fasten off
Color - Tranquil
Color - Marina
Attaching the hood to the coat:
Begin by folding the hood, wrong side facing outwards. Sl st up row 1, and fasten off.
Lay the hood out along the neckline of the coat. When you make this next seam, you
want it to be on the inside of the coat. Beginning at the corners, sl st the hood to the neck
line of the coat.
Ta-da!
Creating the front trim:
Rnd 1: Attach to the front bottom corner of the coat. Ch 2, and hdc along the entire front of the
coat. You want to work 2 sts into the side of each dc, and 1 st into the side of each hdc and sc.
Here I used the color Mulberry for the base color of the trim, but this is a great opportunity for
customization if you are making several coats for family members. The trim could be each
child’s favorite color, for example!
Rnd 2: Ch 3, hdc, 3 sc. [Hdc, dc, tc, dc, hdc, 3 sc]. Repeat across the entire trim. Fasten off.
Rnd 3: Working in backloops. Ch 1, sc. [Sc3tog across scs of rnd 2, 2 sc, 3 sc in tc of rnd 2, 2
sc]. Repeat around. Fasten off.
This is another fun opportunity for customization! Doing a unique color for this “stripe” could help
make coats unique for each child.
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc, tc. [Dc, hdc, 3 sc, hdc, dc, tc]. Repeat across entire trim.
Rnd 5: Ch 2, hdc across entire trim. Fasten off.
Border: Here I’m using the color Lavy Slipper, but again, this is another way you can customize
your coat!
Attach to the front corner. Sc across the entire front of the trim.
When you get to the other side, ch 1, and sc across the bottom of the trim.
Turn, and surface st along the hdcs of row 1 of the trim.
When you get to the other side, sc across the bottom of the trim, ch 1, and sl st to the
beginning st.
You are done with crocheting this coat!
Mini Technicolor Dream Coat
(Sizes 8y through 13Y)

Getting started:
Here is a sizing chart for your use. The pattern is going to be laid out as 8-9Y, 10-11Y, 12-13Y
throughout the instructions.
Size Height (inches) Chest (inches) Waist (inches)
8-9y 49-53 26 22
10-11y 53-57 28 24
12-13y 57-61 30 25
Materials:
You can use any worsted weight yarn for this pattern. I personally chose to work with Knit Pick’s
Brava yarn. This pattern is a fantastic stash buster, so you are free to use up any odds and
ends that you have! For ease, I have included the exact colors that I have used throughout this
pattern, and each color change has the name of the next color used in the pattern. You
absolutely do not have to follow this color scheme, but it is included for reference.
Yarns - Knit Pick’s Brava Worsted Weight:

Lady Slipper, Fairy Tale, Freesia, Mulberry, Celestial, Cornflower, Tranquil, Marina, Grass,
Alfalfa, Custard, Canary, Orange, Coral, Paprika, Red, Wine
Hook:
H/ 5.00mm

Joining rows:

ubiquitously used the term “backpost dc”.



Back panel:
Row 1 should measure 13.5”, 14.5”, 15.5” across.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), dc across. (48, 52, 56 dcs total). If working size
8-11Y, fasten off. If working size 12-13Y, continue on.
Row 2b: Ch 2, (counts as first hdc throughout), hdc across. (56 hdc total). Fasten off.
Color - Freesia.
Row 3: Ch 3, dc in backloops across. (48, 52, 56 dc total). Do not fasten off, but choose a new
color. Color shown here is Fairy Tale.
Row 3b: Fasten your new color on the back loops, just next to where you started row 3. Ch 1
Row 4: Picking up the color you used in row 3. Ch 3, 3 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 3 dc in
Color - Mulberry
Row 7: Ch 3. [Hdc, 3 sc, hdc, dc, tc, dc] and repeat across. (48, 52, 56 sts total).
Row 8: Fasten on at start of row 7. Ch 1 (counts as first sc throughout), 1 sc. [Working in
backloops: Sc3tog over 3sc from row 7. 2 sc. In tc from row 7, work 3 scs. 2 sc.] Repeat across.
(48, 52, 56 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Fairy Tale

Dc, tc, dc, hdc, 3 sc, hdc.] Repeat across. (48, 52, 56 sts total).
Row 10: Ch 3, dc across. (48, 52, 56 sts total). If working size 8-9Y, fasten off. If working
10-13Y, continue on.
Row 10b: Ch 2, hdc across. (52, 56 sts total). Fasten off
Color - Celestial
Color - Cornflower

Front panels (make 2):
Row 1 should measure 6.75”, 7.25”, 7.75” across.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), dc across. (24, 26, 28 dcs total). If working size
8-11Y, fasten off. If working size 12-13Y, continue on.
Row 2b: Ch 2, (counts as first hdc throughout), hdc across. (28 hdc total). Fasten off.
Color - Freesia.
Row 3: Ch 3, dc in backloops across. (24, 26, 28 dc total). Do not fasten off, but choose a new
color. Color shown here is Fairy Tale.
Row 3b: Fasten your new color on the back loops, just next to where you started row 3. Ch 1
Row 4: P icking up the color you used in row 3. C
Color - Mulberry

backloops: Sc3tog over 3sc from row 7. 2 sc. In tc from row 7, work 3 scs. 2 sc.] Repeat across.
(24, 26, 28 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Fairy Tale

Dc, tc, dc, hdc, 3 sc, hdc.] Repeat across. (24, 26, 28 sts total).
Row 10: Ch 3, dc across. (24, 26, 28 sts total). If working size 8-9Y, fasten off. If working
10-13Y, continue on.
Row 10b: Ch 2, hdc across. (26, 28 sts total). Fasten off
Color - Celestial
Color - Cornflower
Creating the Shoulder Seams:

Place your front panels on top of your back panel, with the “right” side of all panels facing
inwards. With the “wrong” side facing outwards, starting from each corner, sl st 13, 15, 17 sts to
create the first shoulder seam. Repeat on the other side. This seam will be on the inside of the
coat. Flip your coat right side out, and continue.
Starting the body of the coat:
Color - Marina
Row 15: Attach to either front corner. Ch 2, 24, 26, 28 hdc in back loops. Continue on by
hdc’ing into the first st of the back panel. 48, 52, 56 hdc in back loops across back panel.
Continue on by hdc’ing into the first st of the next front panel. 24, 26, 28 hdc in back loops. (96,
Row 16a: Ch 2, hdc across. (96, 104, 112 hdc total).
Row 16b: Fasten your new color on the back loops, just next to where you started row 16a or
12b. Shown here is the color Tranquil. Ch 1 (counts as first sc throughout), 3 sc. Ch 1, dc5tog
Row 17: P icking up the color you used in row 16a. Ch 3, 4 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 4 dc
in front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. (96, 104, 112 sts total).
Color- Tranquil
Row 19: Ch 3, dc in back loops across. (96, 104, 112 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Grass
Row 20: Ch 3, dc in back loops across. (96, 104, 112 sts total).
Wheel!
Color - Alfalfa
Color - Grass
Color - Avocado
Row 26: Ch 3, bpdc across. (98, 106, 114 sts total)
off.
Color - Custard
Row 29: Ch 3, 15 hdc. Inc hdc. 68, 76, 84 dc. Inc dc. 15 hdc. (102, 110, 118 sts total). Fasten
off
Color - Canary
If working size 8-9Y, skip row 30 and begin row 31a. If working sizes 10-13Y, continue onto row
28.
Row 30: Ch 3, hdc in back loops across. (110, 118 sts total).
Row 31a: Ch 2, 15 dc. Inc dc. 70, 78, 86 hdc. Inc dc. 15 dc in back loops. (104, 112, 120 sts
total).
Color- Custard
Row 33: Ch 2, 25 hdc. Inc dc. 52, 60, 68 hdc. Inc hdc. 25 hdc. (106, 114, 122 sts total). Fasten
off.
Color - Custard
Row 34: Ch 3, 15 bpdc. Inc bpdc. 74, 82, 90 bpdc. Inc bpdc. 15 bpdc. (108, 116, 124 sts total).
If working size 8-9Y, continue to row 33. If working sizes 10-13Y, continue to row 32b.
Row 34b: Ch 2, 20 hdc. Inc hdc. 64, 72 hdc. Inc hdc. 20 hdc. (118, 126 sts total).
Color - Canary
backloops: Sc3tog over 3sc from row 35. 2 sc. In tc from row 35, work 3 scs. 2 sc.] Repeat
across. (108, 118, 126 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Orange
Row 37: Fasten onto where you began row 34. C h 2 (counts as first hdc). [Working in back
loops: Dc, tc, dc, hdc, 3 sc, hdc.] Repeat across. (108, 118, 126 sts total).
Row 38: Ch 3, 30 dc. Inc dc. 46, 56, 74 dc. Inc dc. 30 dc. (110, 120, 128 sts total). If working
size 8-11Y, fasten off. If working 12-13Y, continue on.
Row 38b: Ch 2, hdc across. (128 sts total). Fasten off
Color - Caution
Row 39: Ch 3, 20 bpdc. Inc bpdc. 68, 78, 86 bpdc. 20 bpdc. (112, 122, 130 sts total).
Row 40: Ch 3, 15 dc. Inc dc. 78, 88, 96 dc. Inc dc. 15 dc. (114, 124, 132 sts total). If working
sizes 8-11Y, fasten off. If working size 12-13Y, continue on.
Row 40b: Ch 2, hdc across. (132 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Coral
Row 41: Ch 3, 25 bpdc. Inc bpdc. 62, 72, 80 bpdc. Inc bpdc. 25 bpdc. (116, 126, 134 sts total).
Row 42a: Ch 2, 15 hdc. Inc hdc. 84, 94, 102 hdc. Inc hdc. 15 hdc. (118, 128, 136 sts total).
Color - Orange
Row 44: Ch 2, 20 hdc. Inc hdc. 76, 86, 94 hdc. Inc hdc. 20 hdc. (120, 130, 138 sts total).
Fasten off.
Optional decoration:
Color - Paprika. Going back to row 39-40, surface stitch in a cute little wiggly pattern! This just
adds a pop of color and texture to this area.
Color - Paprika
Row 45: Ch 3, 20 bpdc. Inc bpdc. 80, 90, 98 bpdc. Inc bpdc. 20 bpdc. (122, 132, 140 sts total)
off.
Color - Wine
Color - Red
Color - Wine
3. 3 sc] Repeat across.
Row 52: Ch 2, 15 hdc across. Inc hdc. 92, 102, 112 hdc. Inc hdc. 15 hdc. (126, 136, 144 sts
total).Fasten off.
Color - Red
Row 54: Ch 2, 20 hdc. Inc hdc. 84, 94, 102 hdc. Inc hdc. 20 hdc. (128, 138, 146 sts total). If
working size 8-9YT, fasten off. If working sizes 10-13Y, continue on.
Adding Sleeves:
Fasten on anywhere on the armhole. Each time you fasten off and start with a new color, you
will be fastening onto a new, random spot around the sleeve. This prevents a “seam” from
forming, giving the sleeve a smoother look.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), and hdc into the sides of the sts making up the armhole. Work
2 hdc into the side of each dc, and work 1 hdc into the side of each hdc. Sl st to first st to close.
(44, 48, 52 sts total).
Rnd 2: Mark the two sts that make up the “bottom” of the arm hole (where the armpit would go).
You will be decreasing twice at the bottom of the armhole for the following rounds. Ch 2, hdc
around. Dec twice at marked sts. Hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (42, 46, 50 sts total).
Fasten off.
Color - Freesia
Rnd 3a: Ch 3, dc around. Dec twice at marked sts. Dc around. Sl st to first st to close. (40, 44,
48 sts total).
Color - Fairy Tale
Rnd 3b: Fasten your new color on the back loops, just next to where you started row 3a. C h1
Rnd 4: Picking up the color you used in row 3a. Ch 3, 2 dc in front loops. [Sc in dc5tog, 3 dc in
front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. Sl st to first st to close. (40, 44, 48 sts total)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, hdc around. Dec twice in marked sts. Hdc around. (38, 42, 46 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Cornflower
(38, 42, 46 sts total).
Color - Celestial.
Rnd 8: Fasten around the post of any st on rnd 7. Ch 3, bpdc across. (36, 40, 44 sts total).
Color - Marina
Rnd 10: Fasten around the post of any st on rnd 9. C h 3, bpdc across. Sl st to first st to close.
(34, 38, 42 sts total). If working size 8-9Y, fasten off. If working sizes 10-13Y, continue on.
Rnd 10b: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (38, 42 sts total).
Color - Grass
Rnd 11a: Fasten onto backloops. C h 3, dc around. Dec twice in marked sts. Dc around. Sl st to
first st to close. (32, 36, 40 sts total).
Color - Alfalfa
Rnd 11b: Fasten onto backloops, just next to where you started row 11a. Ch 1 (counts as first
in front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. Sl st to first st to close. (32, 36, 40 sts total)
Color - Avocado
Rnd 14: Fasten onto backloops. Ch 3, dc around. Sl st to first st to close. (32, 36, 40 sts total).
Color - Custard
(32, 36, 40 sts total).
Rnd 17: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (32, 36, 40 sts total).
Color - Canary
(32, 36, 40 sts total). If working sizes 8-11Y, fasten off. If working size 12-13Y, continue on.
Rnd 18b: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (40 sts total).
Color - Orange
Rnd 19a: Fasten onto backloops. Ch 3, dc in backloops around. Sl st to first st to close. (32, 36,
40 sts total).
Color - Caution
Rnd 19b: Fasten onto backloops, just next to where you started row 19a. C h 1 (counts as first
in front loops.] Dc in remaining front loops. Sl st to first st to close. (32, 36, 40 sts total).
Color - Paprika
Rnd 22: Fasten onto backloops. Ch 3, dc in backloops around. Sl st to first st to close. (32, 36,
40 sts total).
Rnd 23: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (32, 36, 40 sts total). If working size 8-9Y,
fasten off. If working size 10-13Y, continue on.
Color - Coral
(32, 36, 40 sts total).
Color - Wine
Rnd 26a: Fasten onto the post of any st on rnd 25. Ch 3, bpdc around. Sl st to first st to close.
(32, 36, 40 sts total). If working size 8-11Y, continue onto rnd 22c. If working size 12-13Y,
continue onto rnd 22b.
Rnd 26b: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (40 sts total)
Color - Red
Rnd 26c: Fasten onto backloops, just next to where you started row 27a. C h 1 (counts as first
off.
Color - Red
Rnd 29: Fasten onto backloops. Ch 2, hdc in backloops around. Sl st to first st to close. (32, 36,
40 sts total).
Rnd 30: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st to first st to close. (32, 36, 40 sts total). If working size 8-9Y,
fasten off. If working sizes 10-12Y, continue on.
Making the hood:
Color - Wine
Row 1: Ch 72, 72, 77. Dc in 3nd ch from hook (counts as first two dc). Dc across. (70, 70, 75
sts total).
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc across. (70. 70, 75 sts total)..
Color - Red
Row 3: Ch 3 , bpdc across. (70, 70, 75 sts total)
Color - Coral
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc. [Sk 3 sts, 7 dc in 4th st. Sk 3 sts, 3 sc]. Repeat across. Sk 3, 7dc in 4th st.
Sc in last st. (70, 70, 75 sts total) Fasten off.
Color - Orange
Row 5: Ch 3, dc4tog. [Ch 3, 3 sc. Ch 3, dc7tog]. Repeat across. (70, 70, 75 sts total)
Color - Caution
Color - Custard
Row 9: Ch 3, bpdc across. (70, 70, 75 sts total). Fasten off.
Color - Grass
Row 10a: Ch 3, dc in back loops across. (60, 70 sts total).
Color - Alfalfa
front loops.
Row 12: Ch 2, hdc across. (70 , 70, 75 sts total). Fasten off
Color - Tranquil
Color - Marina
Attaching the hood to the coat:
Begin by folding the hood, wrong side facing outwards. Sl st up row 1, and fasten off.
Lay the hood out along the neckline of the coat. When you make this next seam, you
want it to be on the inside of the coat. Beginning at the corners, sl st the hood to the neck
line of the coat.
Ta-da!
Creating the front trim:
Rnd 1: Attach to the front bottom corner of the coat. Ch 2, and hdc along the entire front of the
coat. You want to work 2 sts into the side of each dc, and 1 st into the side of each hdc and sc.
Here I used the color Mulberry for the base color of the trim, but this is a great opportunity for
customization if you are making several coats for family members. The trim could be each
child’s favorite color, for example!
Rnd 2: Ch 3, hdc, 3 sc. [Hdc, dc, tc, dc, hdc, 3 sc]. Repeat across the entire trim. Fasten off.
Rnd 3: Working in backloops. Ch 1, sc. [Sc3tog across scs of rnd 2, 2 sc, 3 sc in tc of rnd 2, 2
sc]. Repeat around. Fasten off.
This is another fun opportunity for customization! Doing a unique color for this “stripe” could help
make coats unique for each child.
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc, tc. [Dc, hdc, 3 sc, hdc, dc, tc]. Repeat across entire trim.
Rnd 5: Ch 2, hdc across entire trim. Fasten off.
Border: Here I’m using the color Lavy Slipper, but again, this is another way you can customize
your coat!
Attach to the front corner. Sc across the entire front of the trim.
When you get to the other side, ch 1, and sc across the bottom of the trim.
Turn, and surface st along the hdcs of row 1 of the trim.
When you get to the other side, sc across the bottom of the trim, ch 1, and sl st to the
beginning st.
You are done with crocheting this coat!
1
Elf Coat design by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

2
Materials & Notes

6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds,
30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn)
– 11, 13, 15 skeins
Pockets: 1 skein makes inset pockets, ~ ½ a
skein makes outside pockets.
Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2”
Size small
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight,
100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is
Meadow) – 14, 16, 18 skeins
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large. Pattern

instructional variations are given for each size,
in this order. Where no variation occurs,
instructions apply to all sizes.
Finished Measurements:
All measurements given in this pattern are
APPROXIMATED and given for the original
gauge using Riot DK. Substituting a different
yarn or gauge may result in different
measurements.
Waist: ~34″, 40”, 45”
Bust: ~34″, 40”, 45” Size medium
Hip: ~36″, 42”, 47”
Sleeve: 22″ (measured armpit to hem), 22”, 22” Notes on yarn, gauge, and sizing:
Length: ~37″
Yarn: I chose King Cole Riot DK yarn for this
This pattern is based on the number of wedges pattern because of its long color changes and
in the skirt, 5 pointed wedges and 4 simple pretty one-ply structure that makes the colors
wedges a Small size. Medium is based on an 11- and the stitches well defined. The DK weight
wedge skirt (5 pointed wedges, 6 simple and 30% wool content creates a sleek and
wedges or vice versa if you please) and a Large lightweight fabric that is also very warm.
is made from a 13-wedge skirt (7 pointed, 6 However, the big box hobby stores in the U.S do
simple). not carry this yarn – I get it from a UK website
called LoveKnitting.com (which I highly
recommend!).
So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is

more commercially available and the closest I
could find was Red Heart Unforgettable, which

3
also looks gorgeous for this design. RH

Unforgettable is 100% acrylic, which has the
benefit of zero felting, and being allergy/vegan
friendly. It is also a #4 weight yarn which means
it will gauge differently.
10 rows = 2″ in Riot DK
Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I

have listed the gauges for each yarn individually
under the materials section. These are using the
6.50 mm hook listed. If you use Unforgettable
following it’s gauge, you can get a slightly bigger
coat using the same stitch counts listed in the
pattern.
8 sts = 2″ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more

like 8.5 stitches, but we’re calling it 8 because of
stretch!
9 stitches = 2″ in Riot DK

4
– https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian
-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian
Knit stitch – tutorial here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-
knit-stitch-tutorial/
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of
double crochet that are linked in the middle.
Tutorial here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2018/02/02/linked-
double-crochet-tutorial/
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry
needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.
Video Tutorials: I have created a playlist of

video tutorials for working all the Tunisian
stitches and other special techniques needed
for this design, please refer to those on my
YouTube channel at the link below!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i8JEaMw
oXg&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJG
bejoOm
9 rows = 2″
It’s also an option to change the hook size for Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful
Unforgettable to obtain the gauge given for Riot crochet technique and I love it and highly
DK, if you want to use the alternate yarn but recommend learning if you haven’t. But since
still get the size pictured. this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just
NOTE FOR LEFTIES: If you are left-handed, your rows of regular stitches with some increases
pattern pieces will be mirrored – for instance, and decreases – that’s really it) a different
your left panel for the torso of the jacket will technique can easily be substituted in. As long
be worked from the Right Panel pattern, and as your stitches match the gauge given, you
vice versa. could work this pattern in regular single crochet
or regular knit stitch.
Techniques Used:
One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet
Chain (ch) or one regular knit/purl stitch.
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each
coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single
here: crochet, and obtained a closely matching gauge
https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian- using a 4.0 mm hook.
knit-stitch-tutorial/ If you are working this pattern in a regular
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian crochet stitch, keep in mind that Tunisian
Knit Stitch. Tutorial here: crochet does not ever turn, so your rows will be

5
alternately “opposite” what the Tunisian

instructions are. For instance, a piece that
If you have any questions about any of the info
decreases at the beginning of every row in
given above (it’s a lot!), please don’t hesitate to
Tunisian, will alternately decrease at the
contact me via e-mail at
beginning and decrease at the end for a regular,
moralefiber@yahoo.com or on my blog Pattern
turning stitch.
Help and Support page here:
Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does https://moralefiber.blog/pattern-help-support/
wonders for your finished piece, especially with Or via Messenger on my FB page here:
Tunisian crochet which tends to curl naturally. www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
Blocking for this piece can be done simply by
Now on to the pattern!
laying your piece out on a foam mat, using
blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat
and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray
bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let
dry. This works great with wool based yarns
(King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with
acrylics (RH Unforgettable).
Large size Elf Coat laid flat for blocking

6
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the

next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next
sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Instructions Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Simple Wedge (Make 4, 6, 6) Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the

Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.
Pointed Wedge (Make 5, 5, 7):
Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook

and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15
stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15

sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the

next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick
up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the The point is formed by concentrating the
next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts increases in the center part of the point, with
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts increasing frequency as the wedge gets larger.
There are no decreases used to form the point.
When the pointed wedge is finished and tied off,

7
stretch the central point outward gently to fully Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next
accent the shape. sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in
the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Ch 15.
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next
stitches sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the
row. RP. – 15 sts Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next
sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the
next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick
up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp.
TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts

8
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next
sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in
the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next
sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in
the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next Cut yarn and tie off.
the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts Skirt Construction
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges
sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in as shown, seam all blocks together with a whip
the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of
yarn.




the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts Waist length for the size Small.
After stitching the wedges, the stretch at
the seams will add width to the length of
the coat bottom. This will be corrected by
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next the waist stitching later.


9
Skirt Border:
The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked

Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with
increases at the point of each pointed wedge.
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of

the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting

hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each
pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this
increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2

LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the Close-up of the increases placed at the point of
increase was marked. each pointed wedge
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2

LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase
points of the previous row. WAIST:
Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie The waist is worked directly onto the top of the
off. You can work extra border here if you want wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is
the skirt longer! skipped on every block, to create a slight
decrease in width to accentuate the waist.

10
Pockets (Make 2 – 4)
Pocket pattern developed from design by
Tirzah Norton-Shantie – thanks Tirzah!
Waist size for Small
Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the line

of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop from
the foundation chain or first row of stitches
using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up
a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk
next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the
next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 8, 10, 12 times.
RP. – 126, 154, 182 sts
To modify the size here, add or subtract any

rows after the first one to make it longer or
shorter. To create inset pockets, see “Pockets”
Instructions, below, before completing the
waistband. Outside pockets may be completed
after the waistband is finished.
Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP. To add pockets to the outside of the garment,
create 2 matching pieces and sew them on after
the coat is finished. To create inset pockets,
make 4 matching pieces from the pattern
below, then follow Inset Pocket Waistband
instructions.
Ch. 19
Row 1: Pick up a loop from ea of the next 18 ch

sts. RP. – 19 sts
Row 2: TKS in the next 8 sts, TKS inc in the next

space. TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp.
TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. -21 sts
Row 3-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

11
Row 11: TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in next If working inset pockets, the LDC rows will be
7 sts, TKS inc in next sp, TKS in next st. TKS inc in worked later so skip them for now.
next sp, TKS in next 7 sts. TKS dec over next 2
Row 30-31: Attach yarn to the top edge of the
sts, TKS in last st. RP. - 21 sts
pocket piece. Ch 3 (does not count as first st). 1
LDC in the same st and in ea st across, inserting
Row 12-16: TKS in ea st across. RP – 21 sts
hook through each stitch as if to TKS. – 19 sts.
Row 17: Repeat Row 11
Inset Pocket – Waistband
Row 18-26: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts If working inset pockets, complete 4 pocket
pieces and seam each pair together with the
Row 27-29: Rpt Row 11 wrong sides facing, leaving top open.
If working outside pockets, then work the

following LDC rows onto the top of each pocket.
Outside pockets can be sewn on after
construction.
Photo courtesy of Tirzah Norton-Shantie

12
To leave an opening at the waistband for inset

pockets, there are two choices. The easier
option is to complete the entire waistband as
instructed and leave a 19-stitch long opening on
each side of the garment when seaming
together the waistband and the bottom of the
Front & back panels.
The more advanced option is to work a set-in

pocket in the middle of the waistband. To do so,
familiarize yourself with both the Foundation
Tunisian Technique here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haU59Ss8
Insert hook into the back of the next st – under
Hsw&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJG
the loop highlighted in green.
bejoOm&index=2
And with the “Adding Length” technique which

utilizes Foundation Tunisian, instructions here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bsg54HL1
56M&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJG
bejoOm&index=7
When working the waistband mark off where

you will place your inset pockets on either side,
then create a 19-stitch long Foundation
Tunisian chain at that place (detailed in tutorial
photos below). Resume regular TKS until
reaching the other pocket point, then repeat for
Draw up a loop from this stitch to begin your
that opening. Return Pass as normal, then work
Foundation Tunisian chain. Complete 19
the rest of the rows as normal.
Tunisian Foundation stitches.
Working Tunisian Foundation in the middle of
the waistband for an inset pocket:
Once foundation length is complete, skip the

appropriate number of stitches on the row
TKS until reaching the portion you wish to leave below and resume TKS as normal.
open for inset pocket.

13
Once the entire waistband is complete, locate

your two openings. With the two seamed-
together pockets, sew the pocket openings into
the opening created in the waistband or at the
bodice/waistband seam.
Attach new yarn and work the Linked Double

crochet (Rows 30-31) over the bottom seam of
the pocket, working through both the garment
layer and the bottom layer of the pocket. Seam
this row up the side of the pocket when
complete, overlapping the top to hide the
Insert pocket envelope into opening
opening.
Align the edges and whip stitch together with

tapestry needle and yarn.

14
Bodice – Front & Back Panels

Note on Size for the Front & Back Panels:
All sizes work 26 rows of TKS before beginning

to decrease and shape the collar and shoulder
area. You can add or subtract rows from the
total of 26 in order to modify the length of the
coat. However many rows you work, be sure to
work the same amount of TKS rows in the
beginning for each panel! I have included an
example here for the size Large, which works an
alternate of 38 rows on each of the bodice
panels before beginning the decreases section.
Back Panel:
The back panel is worked the length of stitches
that equals half of the number of stitches in the
waist. In size small, the waist is 126 stitches.
Divided by two, that’s 63 stitches. In Medium,
the waist is 154 sts, divided by 2 equals 77. In
Large, 182 divided by 2 equals 91.
Back panel, Small
View of the inset pocket from the inside of the

coat.

15
next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53, 67, 81 sts. TKS dec
over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. –
59, 73, 87 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the
57, 71, 85 sts
Back panel, Medium
55, 69, 83 sts
53, 67, 81 sts
51, 65, 79 sts
Back panel, Large – length extended by 12 rows
or just over 2” Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 63, 77, 91 next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43, 57, 71 sts. TKS dec
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook 49, 63, 77 sts
and in the next 61, 75, 89 sts. Return pass (RP).
– 63, 77, 91 stitches Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. –
row. RP. – 63, 77, 91 sts 47, 61, 75 sts
Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2. Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the
To increase length of the front & back panels, over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. –
add more rows here. 45, 59, 73 sts
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the
next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55, 69, 83 sts. TKS dec next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37, 51, 65 sts. TKS dec
over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. –
61, 75, 89 sts 43, 57, 71 sts

16
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the Medium, Large Only:
next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31, 45 sts. TKs dec
41, 55, 69 sts
over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP –
37, 51 sts
over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. –
next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29, 43 sts. TKS dec
39, 53, 67 sts
35, 49 sts
37, 51, 65 sts
33, 47 sts
35, 49, 63 sts
31, 45 sts
33, 47, 61 sts
29, 43 sts
31, 45, 59 sts
27, 41 sts
next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23, 37, 51 sts. TKS dec Row 52: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the
over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21, 33 sts. TKS dec
29, 43, 57 sts over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP –
25, 39 sts
Larges Only:
over the next 2 sts. TKS I the next 2 sts. RP – 27,
next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec over
41, 55 sts
the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37 sts
25, 39, 53 sts

17
Front Panel – Right:

The front panels are worked with the length of
stitches equaling the half of the waistband that
the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two,
so each panel will be a quarter of the total
waistband stitches. For smalls, 126 / 4 = 31.5.
Since that’s not a whole number, I will round
down to 31 and fudge the seam a tiny fraction.
For Medium, 154 / 4 = 38.5 – again, round down
to 38. For Large, 182 / 4 = 45.5, rounded down
to 45. Front Panel, right, size small

18
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 31, 38,

45 sts
Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.
To increase length of the front & back panels,

add more rows here.
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 27, 34, 41 sts. TKS

dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP –
30, 37, 44 sts.
Front Panels size medium
29, 36, 43 sts.

28, 35, 42 sts.

27, 34, 41 sts.

26, 33, 40 sts.

25, 32, 39 sts.

24, 31, 38 sts.
Front Panel, right, size large. Pictured is a panel
with an alternate length of 38 rows in the
beginning.
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 31, 38, 45. 23, 30, 37 sts.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 19, 26, 33 sts. TKS
and in the next 29, 36, 43 sts. Return pass (RP). dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP –
– 31, 38, 45 stitches 22, 29, 36 sts.

19
dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – Row 48: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec
21, 28, 35 sts. over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23
sts
Row 49: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec
over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22
20, 27, 34 sts.
sts
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 16, 23, 30 sts. TKS Row 50: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec
dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21
19, 26, 33 sts. sts
Mediums and Larges only: Row 51: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec
Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 22, 29 sts. TKS dec
sts
over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25,
32 sts Row 52: TKS in ea of the next 16 sts. TKS dec
sts
31 sts All Sizes:
over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23, Row 39, 46, 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS
30 sts in ea of the next 13 sts. TKS dec over the next 2
Row 42: TKS in ea of the next 19, 26 sts. TKS dec sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
29 sts Row 40, 47, 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS
Row 43: TKS in ea of the next 18, 25 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. TKS dec over the next 2
dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
21, 28 sts
Row 44: TKS in ea of the next 17, 24 sts. TKS dec Row 41, 48, 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS
over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20, in ea of the next 9 sts. TKS dec over the next 2
27 sts sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19, Row 42, 49, 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS
26 sts in ea of the next 7 sts. TKS dec over the next 2
sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Larges only:
Row 43, 50, 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS
Row 46: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec
in ea of the next 5 sts. TKS dec over the next 2
sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
sts
Row 47: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec Row 44, 51, 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS
over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 in ea of the next 3 sts. TKS dec over the next 2
sts sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts

20
in the next st. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of
the final st. RP. – 5 sts the next 18, 25, 32 sts. RP – 20, 27, 34 sts.
Cut yarn and tie off. Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of
the next 17, 24, 31 sts. RP – 19, 26, 33 sts.
Front Panel – Left:
Mediums and Larges only:
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 31, 38, 45.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of
the next 23, 30 sts. RP. – 25, 32 sts
and in the next 29, 36, 43 sts. Return pass (RP). Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of
– 31, 38, 45 stitches the next 22, 29 sts. RP. – 24, 31 sts
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 31, 38, Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of
45 sts the next 21, 28 sts. RP. – 23, 30 sts
Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2. Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of
To increase length of the front & back panels,
add more rows here. Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of
the next 28, 35, 42 sts. RP – 30, 37, 44 sts. Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of
the next 27, 34, 41 sts. RP – 29, 36, 43 sts. Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of
the next 26, 33, 40 sts. RP – 28, 35, 42 sts. Larges Only:
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of
the next 25, 32, 39 sts. RP – 27, 34, 41 sts. the next 23 sts. RP. – 25 sts
the next 19, 26, 33 sts. RP – 21, 28, 35 sts. the next 17 sts. RP. – 19 sts.

21
All Sizes:
in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts.
TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 40, 47, 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs
Row 45, 52, 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS SLEEVE (Make 2):
in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the
final st. RP. – 5 sts
Seaming the Back & Front

Panels and Adding the Skirt
Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn,
whip stitch the sides of the panels together so
that the long angles face each other. Stitch
together the straight sides, but not the angles.
Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat
bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach
The sleeves for all sizes begin with a 16-chain
using a 5.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn
length, then work a portion of increases
by working a slip stitch through both pieces –
creating a slant that lines up with the slanted
you may also use a whip stitch seam here, but I
edge of the bodice. The sleeve then works
prefer the slip stitch seam at the waist because
decreases to size down for the main part of the
it’s sturdier.

22
arm (worked evenly), then increases again for

the flared sleeve.
The former design placed the decrease portion

at the ends of the rows, but the new 2.0 version
is written so that the decreases are placed
centrally, in the middle of the row. This allows
the fabric to slant downward to follow the
natural line of the shoulder. If you prefer
working the old style, simply place the
decreases at the ends of the rows instead
Sleeve size medium, old style
Sleeve size small (old style decreases pictured)

23
Sleeve size small, with the new style of

decreasing (above and below)
Ch 16.
Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk

and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts
Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp.
TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp.
TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts
Sleeve size large, new style decreases TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp.

24
Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next
TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp.
TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp.
Mediums and Larges Only:

Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. Row 24: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next
TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts sp. TKS in the next 56 sts, TKS inc in the next sp.
sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. Row 25: TKS in ea st across. – 62 sts
TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts Row 26: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the next 58 sts, TKS inc in the next sp.
Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 64 sts
TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts Row 27: TKS in ea st across. – 64 sts
Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 60 sts, TKS inc in the next sp.
sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Large Only
Row 29: TKS in ea st across. – 66 sts
TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next
Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea st across. – 68 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 64 sts, TKS inc in the next sp.
sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 70 sts
Row 33: TKS in ea st across. RP – 70 sts

25
All Sizes: Row 75, 79, 84: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in
the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 42, 48, 52 sts.
Row 24, 29, 34: TKS in ea of the next 24, 27, 29 TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3
sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next sts. RP. – 50, 56, 60 sts
6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of
Row 76, 80, 85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 50, 56,
the next 25, 28, 30 sts. RP. – 58, 64, 68 sts
60 sts
Row 77, 81, 86: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in
Row 25, 30, 35: TKS in ea of the next 23, 26, 28
sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next
TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3
6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the
sts. RP. – 52, 58, 62 sts
next 24, 27, 29 sts. RP. – 56, 62, 66 sts
Row 26, 31, 36: TKS in ea of the next 22, 25, 27 Row 78, 82, 87: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 52, 58,
sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 62 sts
next 23, 26, 28 sts. RP. – 54, 60, 64 sts Row 79, 83, 88: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in
sts. RP. – 54, 60, 64 sts
next 22, 25, 27 sts. RP. – 52, 58, 62 sts
Row 80, 84, 89: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 54, 60,
Row 28, 33, 38: TKS in ea of the next 20, 23, 25 64 sts
6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the Row 81, 85, 90: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in
next 21, 24, 26 sts. RP. – 50, 56, 60 sts the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 48, 54, 58 sts.
Row 29, 34, 39: TKS in ea of the next 19, 22, 24 sts. RP. – 56, 62, 66 sts
6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the Row 82, 86, 91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 56, 62,
next 20, 23, 25 sts. RP. – 48, 54, 58 sts 66 sts
sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next Row 83, 87, 92: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in
6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 50, 56, 60 sts.
next 19, 22, 24 sts. RP. – 46, 52, 56 sts TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3
sts. RP. – 58, 64, 68 sts
Rows 31, 36, 41 – 72, 76, 81: TKS in ea st across.
RP. – 46, 52, 56 sts Row 84, 88, 93: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58, 64,
68 sts
the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 40, 46, 50 sts. Row 85, 89, 94: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in
TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 52, 58, 62 sts.
sts. RP. - 48, 54, 58 sts TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3
Row 74, 78, 83: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 48, 54, sts. RP. – 60, 66, 70 sts
58 sts

26
Row 86, 90, 95: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 60, 66, in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64, 70, 74
70 sts sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next
3 sts. RP. – 72, 78, 82 sts
the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 54, 60, 64 sts. Row 98, 102, 107: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72,
TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 78, 82 sts
sts. RP. – 62, 68, 72 sts
Row 99, 103, 108: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc
3 sts. RP. – 74, 80, 84 sts
sts. RP. – 64, 70, 74 sts
3 sts. RP. – 76, 82, 86 sts
sts. RP. – 66, 72, 76 sts
Row 92, 96, 101: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66, in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70, 76, 80
72, 76 sts sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next
3 sts. RP. – 78, 84, 88 sts
sts. RP. – 68, 74, 78 sts
3 sts. RP. – 80, 86, 90 sts
sts. RP. – 70, 76, 80 sts
3 sts. RP. – 82, 88, 92 sts

27
Row 108, 112, 117: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82,

88, 92 sts
in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76, 82, 86
sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next
3 sts. RP. – 84, 90, 94 sts
Row 110, 114, 119: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84,

90, 94 sts
Cut yarn and tie off. Sleeve fitting size Large, new style sleeve
pictured. 4 of the 5 stitches at the top of the
Seaming the Sleeve: front panel are overlapped by the top 4 rows of
the sleeve.
Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the
piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the
starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving front and back panels, using a one-to-one
toward the shoulder. At the underarm of the row/stitch ratio.
sleeve, leave 23, 30, 37 rows unseamed on
either side. Match the remaining opening to the
front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows
to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the
tops of the front & back panels by 4 stitches.
Close-up of the sleeve fitting.
Sleeve seaming size small, old style sleeve

pictured

28
Sleeve Border
Close-up of the sleeve border joining seam
HOOD:
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam The hood is worked as a separate piece
where the sleeve is sewn together. consisting of one large triangle, folded in half
when complete. This hood has a very long point
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a slightly
times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to shorter hood, see “Half Hood” instructions
TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join below. Either size hood can be made and
with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc. attached to any size Elf Coat.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first Working a Shortened Hood (Formerly the Half
stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch Hood): This is the alternative to the full size
around. Join with a slip stitch. hood design which conserves a little yarn. Like
the full hood, it is worked as a separate piece
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the
consisting of one large triangle, folded in half
next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC
when complete and seamed. You can use either
in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
hood interchangeably when creating your coat,
Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves though, no matter which size you are making!
longer here by adding extra border rounds of To work the Shortened Hood, skip one of the
LDC. two non-increase rows between each increase
row for the first 76 rows written (50 rows total).
Then, resume the Hood pattern as normal at
Row 77.

29
Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7
sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP.
– 11 sts
sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP.
– 13 sts
Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts

Shortened Hood Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next
11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st.
RP. – 15 sts
Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next
RP. – 17 sts
Full Hood 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st.
RP. – 19 sts
Ch 3.
Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of
the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts
Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next RP. – 21 sts
st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st.
RP. – 5 sts
RP. – 23 sts
Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next
3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts
RP. – 7 sts
Rows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st.
RP. – 25 sts
sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts
– 9 sts.
Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st.
RP. – 27 sts

30
Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next
RP. – 45 sts
RP. – 29 sts Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts
RP. – 47 sts
RP. – 49 sts
Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next
RP. – 51 sts
RP. – 35 sts. Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts
RP. – 53 sts
RP. – 37 sts. Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.
Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the
next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of
the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp.
RP. – 39 sts
Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the
next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of
the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp.
RP. – 41 sts
Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the
next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS
RP. – 43 sts
in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts

31
Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the
sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc next 6 sts. RP. – 108 sts
in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. –
73 sts
Row 110: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in
the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts) 4
Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the
sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc next 6 sts. RP. – 113 sts
in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Rows 111 – 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 113
Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts sts
Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in Row 113: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in
the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts) 4
times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the
sts. RP. – 83 sts next 7 sts. RP. – 118 sts
Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts Rows 114 – 115: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 118
sts
the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 Row 116: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in
times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts) 4
next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the
next 7 sts. RP. – 123
Rows 117 – 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 123
sts
times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the Row 119: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in
next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts) 4
times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the
times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the Row 122: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in
next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts) 4
the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts) 4 Row 125: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in
times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts) 4
next 5 sts. RP. – 103 sts times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the

32



Rows 135 - 151: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 153

sts
Seaming the Hood Seam the hood until you reach the rows marked
with stitch markers. Cut yarn. Turn your hood
Fold the large triangle down the center length inside out so that the right sides are facing out
so that the right sides of the fabric are facing again. This leaves 33 rows left unseamed on
each other and the wrong sides are out. either side.
Using stitch markers, count from the opening of How did I get the number of rows to leave
the hood (the long side) 33 rows down on each unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small
side. Mark the 33rd row on each side. angled part on each side of the front panel, plus
With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then
make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of (25-= 17) to cover the portion of the top of the
the hood and seaming toward the opening of back panel not already covered by the cap of
the hood. the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded up to
66 to get an even number when I halved it – so
33 rows left unseamed on either side of the
hood.
The hood then is seamed to the collar of the

garment (once all sleeves and everything have
been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a
length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching
the points of the hood opening indicated by the
red dots to the beginning of the collar on the
front, also indicated by red dots.

33
Seam the hood around the collar opening,

matching stitch or row for stitch/row
Front Border and Closures

We’re almost done! Next up is to use four rows
of LDC to add a border across the entire front
opening, beginning with the hem, working up
the opening of the garment, going around the
edge of the hood, and working back down the
other side of the front opening. After the third
Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of
row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the
the skirt border rows.
buttons. For traditional buttonholes, stop to
mark the placement after the second row. Ch 3.
Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the

border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1
LDC in the side of each row across the next
wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea
st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side
of each row across the front panel, waist band,
and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each
LDC of the skirt border.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1.

Traditional buttonholes, mark placement here.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2.

Loop buttonholes, mark placement here.

34
small, which leaves the front a little more open

when buttoned.
If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big

enough to fit the button through, then slip
stitch in the same stitch. Continue working
LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain
loop at any point where a closure is marked.
If making traditional buttonholes, stop LDC and

chain one before a marked stitch. Skip marked
stitch and resume LDC until you reach the next
Close-up of LDC border
marked stitch, repeat.
Mark where your buttons will be on one side,
and mark an equidistant space on the other side
of the border for where you will place your
loops or buttonholes. I began with one
button/closure on the top and bottom edge of
the waist band, then used this measurement
(17 sts between each placement) to space the
other buttons. I made five button placements
total.
Once your button placements have been

marked, begin the rest of the rows.
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you

reach a button/closure marker. If you are on
the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are
on the closure side, there are two options: You
can chain a couple stitches and skip over
working a couple stitches, which creates a
buttonhole within the band and a tighter
closure. I opted to use a loop closure for the

35
Stopping to chain a loop closure
After finishing the final border row, use a

tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach
each button at the marked location on the
opposite side of the closures.
Belt Tie (Optional, Make 2)

This pattern makes a ~21” tie about 2” wide,
but you can make longer and/or wider ties
depending on your needs by adding extra rows
and/or foundation stitches. Ties are sewn into
the side seams after construction.
Traditional buttonholes
One completed belt tie.

36
Ch 10.
Row 1: Pick up a lp from each of the next 9 ch

sts. RP – 10 sts
Rows 2 – 90: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 10 sts
Row 91: TKS decrease over the next 2 sts. TKS in

the next 4 sts. TKS decrease over the next 2 sts.
TKS in the last st. RP. – 8 sts
Row 92: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in the
next 2 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in
the last st. RP. – 6 sts
Row 93: TKS dec over the next 2 sts twice. TKS Corset Back Lacing
in the last st. RP. – 4 sts
Row 94: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the
last st. RP. – 3 sts.
On the back of the finished Elf Coat, locate the

Using a tapestry needle and yarn, sew the tie central panel in the series. Locate the two
into the side seam at each side, RS facing. panels on either side of the central panel, then
mark the stitches on the two outer edges of
these panels with a stitch marker. The corset
lacing is about 40 sts long - Be sure to try on
your coat and mark off the places where the

37
corset lacing will be best on you before two front bars of the knit stitch, as if they were
starting to ensure a perfect fit! You can also the two top bars of a regular crochet stitch.
adjust the placement width-wise based on how
much you wish to be able to cinch the coat in at
the waist. We will be working 4 rows of LDC
directly into the TKS, running vertically up the
back, then repeating this process on the mirror
side.
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). LDC in the next

41 sts. You can also alter the length of the
corset backing, if your coat is longer or you
want a higher / lower cinch.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 38

sts. Sk next st, LDC in the last st.

sts. Ch 1, sk next st. (LDC in the next 4 sts, ch 1,
sk next st) 6 times. LDC in the next 3 sts.

sts, sk next st. LDC in the last st.
With the 3.50 hook and yarn, attach at the

marked stitch by inserting the hook through the

38
Repeat Rows 1 -4 on the opposite side at the

point marked. Happy Magicking!
Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends. I used
mesh ribbon yarn to lace mine and it worked
nicely! All photos and written instructions included in
the above pattern are intellectual property of
Morale Fiber (Regina Weiss) and are not to be
reproduced in any way without consent of the
author.
Purchase of this pattern grants the right to

individual artisans to sell products made from
this pattern as long as the artist and pattern are
credited and are linked back to, where
applicable.
Questions about this pattern are welcomed at:

moralefiber@yahoo.com
or on any of my social media channels!
©2019, 2021

P a g e |1
Presents: “SERGED DREAM COAT” ©
The information and photos in this posting are the sole copyrighted property of
Crochetverse©2017. Please do not copy and paste any of the information contained within
either electronically, verbally, or written in part or in whole. Instead, please share the
DIRECT LINK to this posting only, and if you do, I thank you for sharing. You, of course,
may sell anything you make from this pattern that you have made with your own two
hands; no contract labor or mass productions are permitted. If you credit Crochetverse as
the designer, that is greatly appreciated! I kid you not when I say I worked 9 months on
this, please share the link to the pattern and not the pattern.
P a g e |2
PIXIE HOOD OPTION NOW INCLUDED! (See under hood)
You will need an additional 300-350 yards of yarn to create this option.
Shown is Caron Simply Soft in Royal Blue, Taupe, Black, Blue Mint, Kelly Green, and Chartreuse
In addition, I worked COLOR CHANGES within the single panels as I created them, so some appear
striped and color blocked! Try playing around with color changes for an even more unique coat! I found
that working two rows and carrying the color change yarn UP the side was the best method as it only
created two extra ends and the edge round hid the carrying of the yarn up the side.
P a g e |3
MATERIALS: (For all sizes but 2X/3X and Children’s Alterations, for those sizes, please see the section
below “Sized to Fit”)
- (10) 1” buttons
- sewing thread coordinating to the color yarn you are choosing for your join/seam color
- size F (3.75mm) crochet hook -OR- size needed to obtain gauge
- 550 yards worsted weight yarn of ONE solid color to be used for all the join rows throughout
Shown: (3) skeins Wonderland Yarns March Hare in Too Much Pepper
- 185 yards worsted weight yarn of ONE solid color to be used for small accent positions
Shown: (1) skein Wonderland Yarns March Hare in Tea Tray
- 2300 yards worsted weight yarn of as many or few colors as you wish used for all the panels
Shown: (2) Wonderland Yarns – So Fond of Rainbows Mini Skein Pack in Shadow Rainbow
(1) Wonderland Yarns – Color Morph Mini Skein Pack in #41 Yellow to Fuchsia Shadow
(1) Wonderland Yarns – Color Morph Mini Skein Pack in #32 Fuchsia to Turquoise Shadow
- scissors, tape measure, needle to weave ends
- non-rusting pins and foam mats to block the item
GAUGE: (for all sized but children’s, please see “Sized to Fit” section for that info)
Using your desired yarn and a F hook, chain 37:
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each rem ch across. (36)
Row 2-20: ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st across.
4” x 4” = 18 sts by 13 rows in hdc as created above. Measure as stated next:
HOW TO MEASURE: Lay a ruler on the piece and count how many stitches are in 4” wide and how many
stitches are in 4” tall. You will want to measure towards the center of the piece so the edges do not
affect your laid flat measurements.
If you have MORE than my gauge above, your tension is TIGHTER than me, go up a hook and try again.
If you have LESS than my gauge above, your tension is LOOSER than me, go down a hook and try again.
WANT THIS TO FIT AS INTENDED? It is VERY likely that over the course of this project and any project
that is a bit longer term, your gauge will TIGHTEN and LOOSEN as you work. At various points in the
pattern, I have noted what the piece SHOULD measure. Take note of these to be sure you are staying on
gauge as you work. It is imperative to success.
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SIZED TO FIT:
ADULT INFORMATION:
(THIS IS A NOT A FORMFITTING GARMENT, RATHER A COAT AND DESIGNED TO BE WORN OVER OTHER
GARMENTS WITH A FAIR AMOUNT OF EASE)
Following the chart below for 3 small adjustments, you will alter the CHEST panels at the end only to fit
the measurements stated in the chart.
CHEST PANEL FINISHED CHEST FINISHED WAIST FITS ACTUAL FITS ACTUAL
ALTERING BODY BUST BODY WAIST
NONE – 43” 37” 36-44” 30”-38”
Middle Option
ADD 4 ROWS- 45” 39” Up to 46” Up to 40”
Largest Option
MINUS 4 ROWS- 41” 35” Up to 42” Up to 36”
Smallest Option
***2X/3X: FOLLOW CHANGES NOTED THROUGHOUT, will fit to a 50” chest and 40” waist actual body
measurement. You will need about 3600 yards worsted weight yarn and will work to the SAME gauge
as for other sizes.
The arms are somewhat form fitting, if your arms are above average in circumference, you may find the
sleeves overly snug. The garment is thickly stitched and heavier in weight like a cozy sweater or a
sweater jacket. Hip measurement is not stated as the bottom is extremely free flowing.
Here is the 2X/3X garment on a woman of 2X/3X size who is petite in height, 5’1”:
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CHILDREN INFORMATION:
To create a child’s size to fit approximately Youth 8-14 in children’s sizes, you will simply drop down to a
Category 2/Fingering/Baby weight yarn, using a B(2.25mm) crochet hook or whatever hook size needed
to obtain a gauge of: IN HDC: 11 sts x 10 rows = 2” x 2”
You will need about 2300 yards total of fingering/baby weight yarn for the project.
Image One shows the coat made as described in this section on a model who wears Size 14 Youth.
Image Two shows the coat created in the exact same manner, but fit on a model who wears Size 10
Youth.
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GARMENT BLOCKING/WASHING/STORAGE:
I did not block each piece before I joined. Instead, I blocked my finished item. My method is generally
safe for all fibers, but you should test it on a small swatch created with the yarn you chose to be sure
there are no undesired results.
To block:
Dampen the garment with cool water, either in a spray bottle or sink. You will want to SQUEEZE ONLY to
get the water out. Never twist it or wring it. You can roll the item up in a towel to further remove excess
water.
Lay out foam mats. I purchased a set from Amazon that gave me 6 ft x 6 ft of space to work with for
under $30.00.
Arrange the garment on the mats and pin in place, making sure corners are sharp and square and edges
are straight and not wavy. Then, leave it alone until it is completely dry.
Some think acrylic cannot be blocked, I absolutely believe it works and always do it when I do garments.
You may need to gently reblock if you wash the sweater.
NEVER hang this sweater up, it is heavy and will droop if stored incorrectly. Instead, fold nicely and store
in a drawer or on a shelf.
I always hand wash my hand made clothing in gentle detergent and cool water. Always lay flat, shaping
into place, and let dry completely. You put a lot of time into it, so let’s make it last as long as possible!
It is not really possible to block the entire garment at once. I used a two-step process. Firstly, I pinned
and blocked the skirt in to a nice even semi-circle (shown below). When that was completely dry, I then
pinned and blocked the hood/sleeves/and chest.
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COLOR PLANNING IMAGE: This image has had the color removed to the best of my ability and each
panel numbered with a key to tell you what panel is in what position in the final garment. Feel free to
print this a number of times and use colored pencils or markers to play around with color ideas. The only
panels not shown clearly in this image are the panels that create the upper chest (see main pattern
image to assist in planning those colors) This way you can pre-plan your color layout!!! Ain’t that the
bee’s knees?! 😉
Color Planning Image Key: (If multiple pieces have the same number, each piece is made the identical
way in the identical pattern section. All join rows are created in the identical color. This is HIGHLY
recommended to serve as the “tie in/framing” color for the jacket.)
1. Skirt Panels 6. Hood Panels 21. Final Chest Opening Panel
2. Waist Band 7. Skirt Extension Panels
3. Bodice Pieces 8-18. Sleeve Rings 1-11, respectively
4. Lower Back Panel 19. Sleeve Button Panel
5. Upper Back Panel 20. Chest Opening Extension Panel

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CRITICAL SUCCESS NOTES:
1. All pieces begin with a chain, some quite long. I, in fact, used a half double crochet chainless
foundation row for each piece. It has better elasticity and is easier to create in my opinion and I highly
recommend you learn it! But, if you do not desire that, just follow as written. There are MANY great
videos on YouTube for this. You will not be sorry!
2. The right side of row 1 of the pieces is considered the right side. When joining, be sure the right side
of your edge round is facing up or to the outside of the garment.
3. When a number to repeat follows a set of parentheses, repeat ONLY what directly proceeds the
number in the parenthesis. Example: (x, x, x) EIGHT times. You would repeat x,x,x EIGHT TIMES TOTAL.
4. The joins are meant to mimic the raised texture created by a serger machine. The raised side of the
join faces OUTSIDE the garment.
STITCH KEY (US TERMS):
Chs chain(s) nxt next dec decrease
Sc single crochet rem remaining
Sl st slip stitch st stitch
Hdc half double crochet sp space
1. CREATE SKIRT PANELS: (Make 14 for all sizes EXCEPT for 2x/3x make 16)
Shown is a rainbow gradient, each panel takes about 40 yards.
Finished Size: Top edge near row 1: a hair under 2” wide
Total height: 10.5”
Bottom edge near row 33: 6” wide
After you make one, PAUSE and measure. Adjust if needed.
Chain 7:
(PLEASE read the notes section for info on HALF DOUBLE CROCHET CHAINLESS FOUNDATION ROW, it
is a very very good alternative and what I have actually used in my entire sample shown.)
Row 1: hdc in 2nd chain from hook and each rem chain across, skipped chain does not count as a st. (6)
Row 2: ch 1 (does NOT count as a st here and throughout), turn, hdc in same st and in each st across. (6)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in 1st st, hdc in nxt 4 sts, 2 hdc in last st. (8)
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Row 4: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st and in each st across. (8)
Row 6-10: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st and in each st across. (10)
Row 21-27: ch 1, turn hdc in 1st st and in each st across. (18)
Row 29: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st and each st across. (20)
Row 31-32: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st and each st across. (22)
Row 33: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st and in each st across, do not tie off, continue to edge round. (22)
Edge Success Tips:
1. If you have trouble determining which strands on the edge belong to which row, follow the row from
the center to the edge. It is much easier to identify the edge “jumble” that way!
2. If you want to reduce those “spaces” created by edging in the normal way where the entire post of
the stitch is encircled; instead insert your hook INTO the strands that make up the edge stitch, grabbing
only one or two of the strands. That way the edge looks more solid and the gaps created by normal edge
method are greatly reduced/eliminated!
Edge Round: Do not turn, ch 1, (up the 1st long side), 2 sc in the space (around the post of the last st
made on row 33), (sc around the end of the nxt 4 rows, 2 sc around the end of the nxt row) SIX times
total, sc in the end of the nxt row, 2 sc in the end of the nxt row, (across top shortest edge) 3 sc in the 1st
rem loop of the beg chain across the top, sc in each of the nxt 4 remaining loops of the beginning chain
across the top, 3 sc in the last rem loop, (down 2nd long side) 2 sc around the end of the nxt row, sc
around the end of the nxt row (2 sc around the end of the nxt row, sc around the end of the nxt 4 rows)
SIX times total, 2 sc around the end of the last row, (across bottom row 33), 3 sc in 1st st, sc in each of
the nxt 20 sts , 3 sc in the last st, sl st to 1st sc made, tie off. (118)
Now, weave in all the ends so we can carry on to joining to build the skirt portion to work the rest of
the garment off of.
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2. ASSEMBLE MAIN SKIRT:
Shown is “Too Much Pepper” or a dark gray which I will use for all the seams.
Lay out your panels in the order you wish in semicircle, making sure the right side of the edging round is
facing up as this is the “right side” of this panel:
JOIN: Starting at either end of the semicircle, pick up the 1st 2 panels and place them on top of each
other with both wrong sides facing in and touching each other.
You will be joining one long edge of one piece to the matching long edge of the second piece, starting in
the second sc worked in the last st on the longer bottom edge of the piece, across the side, then
ending in the second sc worked in the corner of the top shorter edge.
Begin by inserting the hook through the FRONT loop only of the sc edge in the 2nd st of the 3sc corner
worked in the last sc on the long bottom edge on top of your stack, and then through the BACK loop
only of the coordinating sc of the edge round on the panel to the rear of the stack, as shown above:
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JOIN ROW 1: Using the same color for all the joins (dark gray shown), lay the yarn over the hook and sl
st join the yarn, working through both panels loops you have the hook inserted in, *ch 1, sl st in the nxt
sc in the coordinating loops same as before, (front loop of the top panel and back loop of the rear
panel), repeat from * across the edge matching stitch for stitch, ending with the 2nd sc in the 3sc
grouping at the top corner, then tie off.
Repeat and join ALL the panels together, take care to be sure you are joining them with the wrong sides
facing each other on the two panels you are currently joining. That way, when you flip them out flat, all
the right sides of the panels will be facing up.
REALITY NOTE: You MAY end up with a stitch skewed in your edging. DO NOT tear the edging out and
replace to try to be perfect. With so many pieces and you being a human and all, your tension might
have the alignment off just a smidge. Just match them up and join and fudge a stitch if needed, it will
NOT be noticeable at all in the end product.
You will end up with this: (left shows 2 joined, right shows all joined)
3. CREATE WAIST SECTION: (Use this spot as a GAUGE CHECK: Goal is 2.5” tall x 30” wide for all sizes
EXCEPT 2x/3x which will be 2.5” tall x 34.5” wide)
This will span the top shorter (inside circle) edges of the joined panels. There will be one sc for each join
row, and across the top of each panel there will be 8 to span the top of each panel, then minus 2
because those will be added in via the edge round (2nd and 3rd sc in the corner, 4 sc across the top, and
the 1st and 2nd sc in the corner at the opposite side; the middle sc of the 3sc group at the corner is
worked into on both the previous joins and this join)
With waist band color choice (shown is Tea Tray light gray):
Chain 124 for all sizes except 2x/3x for which you will chain 142:
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Stitch counts and instructions are given in parenthesis as (ALL SIZES BUT 2x/3x, 2x/3x). This means you
follow the 1st number if you are making any size BUT 2x/3x; and you follow the second number in the
parenthesis if you are making the 2x/3x.
Row 1: hdc in 2nd chain from hook (skipped chain does not count as a st) and in each rem chain across.
(123 for all sizes except 2x/3x - 141 for 2x/3x)
Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st across. (123, 141)
Row 3-6: repeat row 2.
*Edging Tip: When working edge round sts into the ends of rows; instead of completely encircling the
stitch at the end with the edge stitch, I tend to insert my hook INTO the strands that make up the stitch,
maybe through just a strand or two. Using this method will help eliminate some of that “gapping” you
tend to see when edging rounds encircle the stitch completely!
Edge Round: ch 1, turn, make 3 sc in the same st, sc in the nxt (121, 139) sts, 3 sc in the last st, 1 sc in
the end of each row down the short side (6 total), 3 sc in the 1st st (remaining free loop from beg chain)
on the bottom, sc in the nxt (121,139) remaining free loops of the beg chain across the bottom, 3 sc in
the last loop, 1 sc in the end of each row up the 2nd short side, sl st to the 1st sc made, tie off.
JOIN: Using the same method as used to join the panels together, join the waist band to the inside
semicircle of the assembled skirt section.
Row 1: (You WILL work a join stitch in the join rows between panels, just insert your hook and catch a
strand of the stitch at the top of the row, make sure the right side of the edge round faces you and the
wrong sides of the skirt and waist band are facing each other, right sides out) join the yarn with a sl st in
the front loop only of the 2nd sc of the 3sc group in the corner of the rightmost panel of the skirt
assembly AND the back loop only of the 2nd sc of the 3sc group in the rightmost corner of the waistband,
ch 1, sl st in the nxt set of loops, ch 1, repeat in that manner across, ending with a sl st in the 2nd sc of
the 3sc group on both pieces in the opposite corner, tie off.
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WEAVE ENDS: Pause and weave the ends from the joining process now on the skirt panels and the waist
band. Strategically weave them to “firm up” the spot where 3 corners meet in the panels and waistband.
Let’s keep this baby pro looking!
4. CREATE SKIRT BOTTOM EXTENSION:
Long Panel (Make 3): (Each used 2 mini skeins with a few yards to spare, one each in tea tray, teal
blue, and lime green) This will span the longer bottom edge of the skirt assembly, opposite the waist
band side.
Again, counts and sizes are given as (all sizes but 2x/3x, 2x/3x) follow the number in the position for the
size you are making.
Chain (348, 398):
Row 1: hdc in 2nd chain from hook and in each rem chain across, skipped chain does not count as a st.
(347, 397)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across, do not tie off, instead continue to the edge round.
Edge Round (Partial, only 3 sides of the piece are edged): make 2 sc in the same st as the last hdc
worked on row 2, evenly space 2 sc down the short edge working around the ends of the rows, work 3
sc in the corner stitch, sc in each st across the bottom (will be remaining loops of starting chain) until the
last st, work 3 sc in the corner st, evenly space 2 sc up the short edge, 3 sc in the corner st, then sl st to
the next st on the top row to close, tie off.
JOIN: with the right side of the skirt assembly so far, line up the 1st bottom panel extension along the
LONG underside of the semicircle with the HDC row (row 2) upwards touching the skirt assembly edge.
First extension join: Insert hook in the 2nd st of the rightmost top corner of the skirt extension panel and
through the 2nd st of the 3 sts in the bottom rightmost corner of the rightmost skirt panel on the main
assembly, and join the yarn with a sl st, chain 1, as before working in the OUTER loops of both pieces at
once sl st in the next set of loops, *ch 1, sl st in the nxt set of loops, repeat from * all the way across in
each stitch and join row, ending with a sl st in the 2nd st of each panel at the opposite corner.
Second and Third panel join: Using the same method as all other joins (sl st, ch 1) and keeping the hdc
(row 2) on top touching the panel you are joining to, join from the 2nd st of each 3sc corner on the
rightmost side, across in each st, ending with a sl st in the 2nd st of the 3 sc corner at the left opposite
edge.
Here is an image of all three joined:

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5. CREATE BODICE PIECES:
First Piece all sizes BUT 2X/3X: Chain 124
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook (skipped chain does not count as st), and in each ch across. (123)
Row 2: ch 1 (does not count here and throughout), turn, hdc in each st across.
Row 3: (multiple of 3 for increasing): ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st and nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st, *hdc in nxt 2 sts,
2 hdc in nxt st, repeat from * across. (164)
Row 4-6: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (164)
Edge Round: ch 1, do not turn, working down the short side, evenly space 6 sc down the side, make 3 sc
in the 1st st on the bottom of the piece (the free loops rem from the beginning chain), sc in each st
across until just before the last st is reached, make 3 sc in the last st, working up the 2nd short side,
evenly space 6 sc around the ends of the rows up the side, make 3 sc in the 1st st along the top, sc in
each st across until just before the last st, 3 sc in the last st, sl st to the 1st sc made on the edge round,
tie off.
First Piece 2X/3X ONLY: Chain 142
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook (skipped chain does not count as st), and hdc in each ch across. (141)
Row 2: ch 1 (does not count here and throughout), turn, hdc in each st across.
Row 3: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st and nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st, *hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, repeat from *
across. (188)
Rows 4-6: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (188)
Edge Round: ch 1, do not turn, working down the short side, evenly space 6 sc down the side, make 3 sc
in the 1st st on the bottom of the piece (the free loops rem from the beginning chain), sc in each st
across until just before the last st is reached, make 3 sc in the last st, working up the 2nd short side,
evenly space 6 sc around the ends of the rows up the side, make 3 sc in the 1st st along the top, sc in
each st across until just before the last st, 3 sc in the last st, sl st to the 1st sc made on the edge round,
tie off.
Second Piece: Chain 165 for all sizes BUT 2X/3X, Chain 189 for 2X/3X ONLY:
(*If you are SHORT WAISTED/PETITE/SHORTER CHILD; you can eliminate this panel entirely without
affecting the arm holes, you will need to reduce the chest panels though at the very end*)
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each st across. (164, 188)
Row 2-6: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (164, 188)
Edge Round: ch 1, turn, make 3 sc in the same hdc, sc in each st across until the last st is reached making
3 sc in the last st, evenly space 6 sc down the short side working in the ends of the rows, make 3 sc in
the 1st st on the bottom long side, sc in each st across until the last st is reached making 3 sc in the last
st, evenly space 6 sc up the 2nd short side working in the ends of the rows, sl st to the 1st sc made, tie off.
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JOIN: Using the method as we have done all along the piece; sl st in the matching outer loops, ch 1, sl st
in the next outer loops, join
Row 1 side of the first piece to the top edge of the waist band beginning on the 2nd st of the rightmost
corner 3sc grouping and ending with the 2nd st of the leftmost 3sc corner grouping.
Row 1 of the second piece to the top of the 1st piece using the same method and again from the 2nd sc of
the corner 3 sc group of the right, across, and ending with the 2nd st of the leftmost 3sc corner group.
Weave in all ends again to this point. Here is an image of them both joined.
6. CREATE PANELS FRONT & BACK TO CREATE ARMHOLES:
Back Panel Lower: (Make 1) (Gauge Check goal is 3 ¾” x 16 ½” for all sizes BUT 2X/3X which will
measure about 3 ¾” x 19 ¼”)
Chain 73 for all sizes BUT 2X/3X, Chain 82 for 2X/3X only:
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each rem chain across. (72, 81)
Edge Round: ch 1, turn, 3 sc in 1st st, sc in each st across until just the last st remains, 3 sc in the last st,
evenly space 12 sc down the side working in the ends of the rows, 3 sc in the 1st st along the bottom
long side, sc in each st across until the last st is reached, 3 sc in the last st, evenly space 12 sc up the 2nd
short side, sl st to 1st sc made, tie off.
Back Panel Upper: (Make 1) Chain 73 for all sizes BUT 2X/3X, Chain 82 for 2X/3X only:
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem chain across. (72, 81)
Edge Round: ch 1, turn, 3 sc in 1st st, sc in each st across until just before the last st, 3 sc in the last st,
Front Panels Lower: (Make 2) Chain 31 for all sizes BUT 2X/3X, Chain 39 for 2X/3X only:
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across. (30, 38)
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Edge Round: ch 1, turn, 3 sc in 1st st, sc in each st across until just before the last st, 3 sc in the last st,
***NOTE!*** In the project I have done my HDC DEC modified as I really think it created a nicer
looking project piece. HERE IS HOW: (Each loop of the decrease is marked with a number for
reference) Number 1 shows the loop on the hook from the prior stitch.
“(2) Yarn over and insert hook in indicated st, (3) yarn over and pull up a loop, (4) insert hook in next st
and pull up a loop giving it an extra tug to bring the loop slightly taller and match the height of loops 1-3
already on the hook, yarn over and pull through all loops at once to complete decrease”
Front Panel Upper RIGHT (When envisioning the sweater on the body, Make 1):
Chain 31 for all sizes BUT 2X/3X, Chain 39 for 2X/3X only:
Reminder: Counts are given as (All sizes but 2X/3X, 2X/3X only)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st (28, 36) sts, hdc dec over last 2 sts. (29, 37)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, hdc dec over 1st 2 sts, hdc in last (27, 35) sts. (28, 36)
Row 6: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st (22, 30) sts, (hdc dec over nxt 2 sts) twice. (24, 32)
Row 7: ch 1, turn, hdc dec over 1st 2 sts, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, hdc in rem (20, 28) sts. (22, 30)
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FOR All sizes BUT 2X/3X, finish the panel with these rows 8-16:
Row 8: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 20 sts, hdc dec over last 2 sts. (21)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, hdc dec over 1st 2 sts, hdc in rem 19 sts. (20)
For 2X/3X ONLY, finish the panel with these rows 8-16:
Row 8: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 26 sts, (hdc dec over nxt 2 sts) twice. (28)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, hdc dec over 1st 2 sts, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, hdc in rem 24 sts. (26)
Front Panel Upper LEFT (When envisioning the sweater on the body, Make 1):
Chain 31:
Row 6: ch 1, turn, hdc dec over 1st 2 sts, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, hdc in last (22, 30) sts. (24, 32)
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Row 7: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st (20, 28) sts, (hdc dec over nxt 2 sts) twice. (22, 30)
For all sizes BUT 2X/3X, finish the panel with these rows 8-16:
Row 8: ch 1, turn, hdc dec over 1st 2 sts, hdc in last 20 sts. (21)
For 2X/3X ONLY, finish the panel with these rows 8-16:
Row 8: ch 1, turn, hdc dec over 1st 2 sts, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, hdc in last 26 sts. (28)
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JOIN ALL PANELS:
1. With the right side of the sweater facing up, using the sl st through both outside loops, ch 1, as you
have done all along so far, join one FRONT PANEL LOWER to the top most waist strip all the way to the
right, beginning in the 2nd sc of the 3sc corner of each piece, working across, and ending with a sl st in
the 2nd sc of the 3 sc corner of the front lower panel left bottom corner and the matching stitch on the
waist strip. You will have (32, 40) sts joined.
2. In the exact same manner as step 1 for the front lower panel, join a FRONT PANEL LOWER to the top
most waist strip all the way to the left, beginning and ending in the 2nd sc of the 3 sc corners of the front
panel lower as step 1. You will have (32, 40) sts joined.
3. With the right side of the sweater facing up, using the same sl st through both outer loops and ch 1 in
between as all other joins, join the FRONT PANEL UPPER LEFT on top of the Front Panel Lower on the
left side. Join beginning with the 2nd sc of each 3 sc corner of each piece, work across, ending with a sl st
in the 2nd sc of the 3sc corner at the opposite side. Be sure the tapered or slanted edge faces left, when
you place the sweater on, this will sit on the chest as it should.
4. In the exact same manner as step 3 for the front upper panel left, join the FRONT UPPER PANEL RIGHT
to the top of the front lower panel on the right. Working as the other beginning in the 2nd sc of rightmost
3sc corner and ending with a sl st in the 2nd sc of the leftmost 3 sc corner. Be sure the tapered or slanted
edge faces right.
5. There are (166, 190) sts on the upper waist strip from 2nd sc of 3sc corner to 2nd sc of 3sc opposite
corner. The LOWER BACK PANEL from 2nd sc of right 3 sc corner to 2nd sc of left 3 sc corner is (74, 83) sts,
leaving 28 sts that will create the armpit areas. The piece should sit evenly centered in the space. With
the right side of the sweater facing up, join the outer loops (using same sl st, ch 1 method as all other
pieces) of the 2nd sc of the 3 sc corner on the right side of the LOWER BACK PANEL to the FIFTEENTH
unworked st to the LEFT of the inner edge of the FRONT LOWER PANEL ON THE RIGHT, work across each
P a g e | 20
st attaching to the upper waist panel, ending with a sl st in the outer loops of the 2nd sc of the 3sc corner
at the left of the lower back panel and the coordinating st on the upper waist panel. FOR THE 2X/3X
ONLY, there is an uneven number of sts, we need to fit 83 sts of the lower back panel into 82 available
sts on the 2nd bodice panel. **On the center of the back lower panel, double up and join TWO stitches
of the lower back panel to ONE stitch of the 2nd bodice panel. There will be 14 sts remaining on the left
unworked, matching the 14 sts unworked on the right-side armpit. WHEW. View the picture, this is a
LOT easier with the photos than to describe in words. Just center the panel and seam it in!
6. With the right side of the sweater facing out, join the UPPER BACK PANEL to the top of the lower back
panel using the same sl st in both outer loops, ch 1 method as all along. Begin in the 2nd sc of the right
most 3sc corner, work across and end in the 2nd sc of the leftmost 3sc corner.
7. Join the left shoulder (marked by the WHITE row of dots) at LEFT FRONT UPPER PANEL to the LEFT
MOST edge of the BACK UPPER PANEL, working in the same joining manner as before from the 2nd sc of
the 3sc group at the rightmost corner of the front upper panel left and coordinating loop of the 18th st
from the left edge of the upper back panel, across, then ending in the 2nd sc of the leftmost 3sc corner of
the left front upper panel. Make sure you are joining so the right sides are facing out.
8. Join the right shoulder (marked by the BLACK row of dots) at the RIGHT FRONT UPPER PANEL to the
RIGHTMOST edge of the back upper panel, working in the same sl st though outer loop, ch 1 manner as
all others, beginning in the 2nd sc of the rightmost 3sc corner of the upper panel and the 2nd sc of the
rightmost corner of the upper back panel, work across, ending in the 2nd sc of the leftmost 3 sc corner
and the coordinating st on the upper back panel.
WEAVE IN ALL ENDS TO THIS POINT.
7. CREATE SLEEVES:
Sleeve Notes: The sleeves fit on the snugger side, should you want looser sleeves, you may want to go
up just one hook size. Especially if you use acrylic yarn, as that doesn’t have the stretch that the wool I
used in my project has.
FROM SHOULDER TO WRIST:
Created in rainbow gradient as same as skirt, red tones at top to purple tones at wrist.
You can attach each ring to the main body as you create them (what I did) -OR-
You can attach them all at the end, in which case, pin a piece of paper to each ring with the number
ring it is so you do not get confused. Also mark which row is ROW 1.
SHORT ARMS OR PETITE? You can safely eliminate any of the sleeve rings that are an exact repeat of
another to shorten the total length.
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Sleeve Ring One (Make 2): Finished size 17” around x 1.5” tall
Because these are worked in the round, they are not edged. It is highly recommended you replace the
chain for the chainless foundation row here. If not, please join the one side using the rem loop from
the beginning chain and the coordinating outer loop of the piece you are joining to.
For ALL sizes BUT 2X/3X:
Chain 83, sl st to 1st chain made to form a ring (take care to not twist the chain when joining):
Rnd 1: ch 1, hdc in same ch and in each ch around, sl st to top of 1st hdc made. (83)
Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 79 sts, (hdc dec over nxt 2 sts) twice, sl st to 1st st made. (81)
Rnd 3: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 7 sts, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, (hdc in nxt 7 sts, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts) 8 times
total, sl st to 1st hdc made. (72)
Rnd 4: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc around, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off. (72)
For 2X/3X ONLY:
Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 79 sts, (hdc dec over nxt 2 sts) twice, sl st to 1st st made. (81)
Rnd 3-4: ch 1, turn hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st st made, tie off after round 4. (81)
Sleeve Ring Two (Make 2):
Chain 72, sl st to 1st ch made to form a ring:
Rnd 3: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made. (63)
total, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off. (54)
For 2X/3X ONLY:
Chain 81, sl st to 1st chain made to form a ring:
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Rnd 2-4: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off after round 4. (81)
EDITS ENDED HERE***
Sleeve Ring Three (Make 2):
Rnd 2-5: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off after round 5. (54)
For 2X/3X ONLY:
Rnd 3-5: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc around, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off after round 5. (72)
Sleeve Ring Four (Make 2):
For all sizes, BUT 2X/3X:
Make exactly the same as for Sleeve Ring 3.
For 2X/3X ONLY:
Rnd 2-5: ch 1, turn hdc in each hdc around, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off after round 5. (72)
Sleeve Ring Five (Make 2):
For all sizes BUT 2X/3X:
Rnd 2-3: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made. (54)
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Rnd 5-6: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made tie off after round 6. (45)
For 2X/3X ONLY:
Rnd 1: ch 1, hdc in same ch and in each ch around, sl st to 1st hdc made. (72)
Rnd 3-6: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and in each rem st around, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off after round 6.
(63)
Sleeve Ring Six (Make 2 in same color as waist band – light gray for my sample):
Rnd 1: ch 1, hdc in each ch around, sl st to 1st hdc made. (45)
Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off. (45)
For 2X/3X ONLY:
Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off. (63)
Sleeve Ring Seven: (Make 2):
For 2X/3X ONLY:
Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made. (63)

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total, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off. (54)
Sleeve Ring Eight (Make 2):
Make exactly as for Sleeve Ring Seven.
For 2X/3X ONLY:
Chain 54, sl st to 1st ch made to form a ring.
Sleeve Ring Nine (Make 2):
For 2X/3X ONLY:
Rnd 2-6: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off after round 6. (54)
Sleeve Ring Ten (Make 2):
Make exactly as for Sleeve Ring Seven.
For 2X/3X ONLY:
Rnd 2-7: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off after round 7 (54)
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Sleeve Ring Eleven (Make 2):
Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 4 hdc, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, (hdc in nxt 4 hdc, 2 hdc in nxt hdc) EIGHT times total,
sl st to 1st hdc made. (54)
Rnd 3: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 5 sts, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, (hdc in nxt 5 sts, 2 hdc in nxt hdc) EIGHT times total, sl
st to 1st hdc made. (63)
For 2X/3X ONLY:
Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made (54)
Rnd 3: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 5 sts, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, (hdc in nxt 5 sts, 2 hdc in nxt hdc) EIGHT times total, sl
st to 1st hdc made. (63)
Sleeve Ring Button Panel (Make 2): Finished size 12” around x 1” tall
Same for ALL sizes.
Using the join row color, chain 72:
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (71)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in 1st 4 sts, ch 3, sk nxt 3 sts, sc 64 sts.
Row 3: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 64 sts, 3 hdc in the ch-3 sp (into the space, not into the chains), hdc in the
last 4 sts, tie off.
Total Sleeve length when all joined: about 22.5” long, if all rings are worked.
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JOIN: (Work entire section through one time for each sleeve)
*For all, position so the joining seam of the rounds is at the lowest armpit point, all joins done in the
dark charcoal gray*
Ring One: This join round only works ONE stitch of each 3sc corner as opposed to 2 of them as we
have done before, that is this ring ONLY. With the right side of round 1 facing out, using the same
method as throughout (sl st through both outer loops, ch 1) Join ROW 1 of RING ONE to all the stitches
and seam rows of the arm opening, sl st to the 1st sl st of the join row when fully around, then tie off.
This includes, 14 sts on the front lower panel, 18 sts on the front upper panel, 18 sts on the back upper
panel 14 sts on the back lower panel, 5 join rows, and the 14 skipped stitches along the waist band.
Ring Two: With the right side of round 1 facing out, using the same (sl st through both outer loops, ch 1)
method as throughout, join ROW 1 of RING TWO to the 4th round of RING ONE, sl st to the 1st sl st of
the join round to close, then tie off.
Ring Three: With the right side of round 1 facing out, using the same (sl st through both outer loops, ch
1) method as throughout, join ROW 1 of RING THREE to the 4th round of RING TWO, sl st to the 1st sl st
of the join round to close, then tie off.
Ring Four: With the right side of round 1 facing out, using the same (sl st through both outer loops, ch 1)
method as throughout, join ROW 1 of RING FOUR to the 5th round of RING THREE, sl st to the 1st sl st of
Ring Five: With the right side of round 1 facing out, using the same (sl st through both outer loops, ch 1)
method as throughout, join ROW 1 of RING FIVE to the 5th round of RING FOUR, sl st to the 1st sl st of
Ring Six: With the right side of round 1 facing out, using the same (sl st through both outer loops, ch 1)
method as throughout, join ROW 1 of RING SIX to 6th round of RING FIVE, sl st to the 1st sl st of the join
round to close, then tie off.
Ring Seven: With the right side of round 1 facing out, using the same (sl st through both outer loops, ch
1) method as throughout, join ROW 1 of RING SEVEN to the 2nd round of RING SIX, sl st to the 1st sl st of
Ring Eight: With the right side of round 1 facing out, using the same join method as throughout, join
ROW 1 of RING EIGHT to the 7th round of RING SEVEN, sl st to the 1st sl st of the join round to close,
then tie off.
Ring Nine: With the right side of round 1 facing out, using the same join method as throughout, join
ROW 1 of RING NINE to the 7th round of RING EIGHT, sl st to the 1st sl st of the join round to close, then
tie off.
Ring Ten: With the right side of round 1 facing out, using the same join method as throughout, join ROW
1 of RING TEN to the 6th round of RING NINE, sl st to the 1st sl st of the join round to close, then tie off.
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Ring Eleven: With the right side of round 1 facing out, using the same join method as throughout, join
ROW 1 of RING ELEVEN to the 7th round of RING TEN, sl st to the 1st sl st of the join round to close, tie
off.
Button Panel: So that the button hole faces the same position on each sleeve, one panel will be
attached with right side of row 1 facing out, the other will be attached with the rs of row 1 facing in. It is
not something that is visually detectible, I am just making note for assembly purposes.
Left Sleeve When Worn: Take the left sleeve and fold it in half so that the shoulder seam lines up in the
middle of your fold. In this image on the left, the arrow points to the shoulder seam. Then take the end of
the button panel with the button hole on it and place it next to the end round on the sleeve to the button
hole is facing/closer to the front of the sweater. Count 10 sts from the end of the sleeve from the chest
side of the garment towards the back and join the join color yarn with a sl st through the outer loop of
that st on the sleeve and the 2 sts to the LEFT of the button hole on the button panel (SEE IMAGE ON
RIGHT FOR PLACEMENT, the 8 sts to the right remain unjoined and the button hole is closer to the front
of the garment), using the same (sl st, ch 1) method as throughout, join the next 63 sts of the button panel
to the 63 sts of the sleeve, sl st to the 1st sl st made, tie off.
Right Sleeve When Worn: Take the right sleeve and flatten it in half in the same manner as done for the
left, lining it up so the shoulder seam is centered on the folded sleeve. Place the button panel so that
the button hole is closer to the front of the garment. This panel must be joined in the opposite direction
from the first, so the buttons are placed the same on both sides. Join the join row color with a sl st in the
outer loop of both the st FURTHEST from the button hole on the button panel and the NINTH st counted
backwards from the edge closer to the front of the garment, (sl st, ch 1) join that st and the next 62 sts
to the 63 sts of the last round on the sleeve, sl st to the 1st sl st made and tie off.
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EDGE THE BUTTON PANELS:
With the right side of the button panel, join the join color yarn just into the sl st join you just made to
finish off the join round above into both loops of the st, (entire edge round for these is done in both
loops, not just one) (ch 1, sl st) firstly up the short end (3 rows), then each of the 71 sts across the top,
then in each of the 3 row ends down the 2nd short side, sl st to the join round from attaching the panel
to the sleeve and tie off. Repeat for the other sleeve, working in the opposite direction so the front of
the edge round faces out on both sleeves.
8. CREATE HOOD: (Original standard hood, see after the standard for the pixie hood if desired instead)
*Note: The hood is meant to be dramatic and have some drape at the shoulders. While it may appear
long while creating, it will be the proper length when worn*
Hood Panel (Make 7):
Chain 73:
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (72)
Edge Round: ch 1, turn, make 3 sc in the 1st st, sc in each st across until just before the last st, make 3 sc
in the last st, make 1 sc in the end of each of the 6 rows down the short side, make 3 sc in the 1st st on
the bottom long edge, sc in each st across until 1 st remains, make 3 sc in the last st, work 1 sc in the end
of each of the 6 rows up the 2nd short side, sl st to the 1st sc made, tie off.
Join:
1. Join Panels: With the right side of the edge round facing up and row 1 facing the bottom, join the join
color with a sl st in the 2nd sc of the rightmost 3sc corner through both outer loops, then use the same (sl
st, ch 1) join method as used throughout to join the two panels across, ending with a sl st in the 2nd sc of
the 3sc corner on the left side, then tie off. Repeat this so all 7 panels are joined together.
2. Join to neckline: Position the jacket and hood assembly as shown in the image below with the right
side (ridges face out) facing out. Using the join color, sl st the outer loops of the 2nd sc of the rightmost
3sc corner on the hood assembly to the outer loop of the stitch at the end of the (FOURTH, EIGHTH) row
of the right side front upper panel. Using the same (sl st, ch 1) method as throughout, join each st and
join row across the hood to the neckline of the sweater, ending in the 2nd sc of the left 3sc corner of the
hood assembly, then sl st to the stitch at the end of (Row 4, Row 7) (Note, there is one row difference
to end on the 2X/3X due to stitch count of panels, it will not be noticeable in the final product at all) of
the left front panel, then tie off. You should be stitch for stitch here, BUT if you added or subtracted a
stitch in edging, simply, double up the join on one or two stitches to correct. We are working to be
precise, but do not allow one or two stitches to cause alarm.
P a g e | 29
3. Join hood top closed: Position the top most hood panel as shown, folding it in half. Insert the hook
through both outer loops at the rear top of the hood and join the join color with a sl st, using the same
(sl st, ch 1) method as throughout, join the stitches along the folded top of the hood, then tie off.
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Pixie Hood Modification:
Worked from around the face to the furthest hanging tip
Face Opening Panel 1:
I have used chainless foundation hdc row for all my pieces, I encourage you to learn this and replace
your traditional beginning chains with it!
Chain 12:
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across. (11)
Row 2-111: ch 1 (does not count as a st here or throughout the hood pieces), turn, hdc in each st across,
do not tie off, continue to edge round. (11)
Edge Round:
Note: A row of hdc is slightly taller than a single crochet is wide. Because of this, you will want to work
your sc edge round somewhat loosely in tension as you work up the sides of the hdc rows so you do not
pucker or buckle your work.
Rnd 1: ch 1, turn, 3 sc in the 1st st, sc in nxt 9 sts, 3 sc in last st, work one sc in the edge of the nxt 111
rows, 3 sc in the 1st st on the short bottom edge, sc in the nxt 9 sts, 3 sc in the last st, work one sc in the
edge of the nxt 111 rows up the second long edge, sl st to the 1st sc made, tie off.
Panel 2:
Create exactly the same as Panel 1.
Panel 3:
Create exactly the same as Panel 1.
Join the three panels:
Using the same (sl st, ch 1) join method as throughout the coat, being sure the right side of the edge
rounds are all facing up, join panel 1 to panel 2 and then the opposite side of panel 2 to panel 3.
You will begin in the 2nd sc of the 3 sc corner on the right and work across the long edge, ending in the
2nd sc of the 3 sc corner on the left.
Attach to neckline:
The original hood panel (version shown in main pattern image) had 74 sts across to attach to the
neckline. We will address the same number of stitches on this pixie hood modification in a slightly
different manner. That way, the remainder of the jacket will be created exactly the same as far as the
chest and button panels 😊
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Position the sweater and hood panels you just joined as shown in the photo, blue is panel 1, taupe is
panel 2, and lime is panel 3 in the image of the hood.
For this pixie hood mod, we will NOT begin in the 2nd sc of the 3sc corner as the other pieces have done
for most other pieces of the coat. Instead we will only attach the 11 stitches at each short edge and each
of the 4 join rows. This gives us 70 sts to join to the neckline. Therefore, we will SKIP 4 stitches in the
center back of the upper back panel, off which we will build the remaining drop portion of the hood.
As with the original hood option, the stiches mathematically match one for one, BUT you are a person
and you may have one or two too many or too few. DO NOT HESITATE to double up as needed to make
it work around. I wouldn’t dream of frogging anything for one or two sts, we are humans, not machines
😉
JOIN TO COAT MAIN BODY IN TWO STEPS:
ONE: Begin in the 1st of the 11 sts across the short edge of panel 1 (shown in blue) and in the end of
(row 4, row 8) on the right upper front panel (actual row 4 of the panel as created) using the same (sl st,
ch 1) join method through the outer loops, join across until you are through 17 sts joined on the back
upper panel, the tie off the yarn.
(There are 38 unworked sts on the back upper panel, and remember we are skipping the center 4)
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SKIP THE CENTER 4 STITCHES.
TWO: After you skip the 4 sts, begin to join the rest of the hood in the same manner beginning in the 1st
st on the 3rd panel (shown in green) and the 1st st after the 4 skipped. Using the same (sl st, ch 1) join
method work across the 11 sts of each panel and each join row, ending in the edge of the (4th row, 7th
row) of the left upper front panel, tie off.
The remaining hood panels are created in the round.
Round Panel 1:
Chain 120, sl st to 1st chain made to form a ring taking care to not twist chain. I HIGHLY recommend
replacing this chain with a chainless foundation row, then joining into a ring. The technique is so worth
it, especially for long start chains.
Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 4 sts, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts (using the slightly different method shown in the
main pattern as for the chest upper panels front), *hdc in nxt 4 sts, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, repeat from *
around, sl st to 1st hdc made. (100)
Rnd 3: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 3 sts, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, *hdc in nxt 3 sts, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, repeat
from * around, sl st to 1st hdc made. (80)
Rnd 4-7: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off after round 7.
The “Round Panels” are NOT edged with an edge round.
It might appear as you go to join that the Round Panel 1 is too small to fill the hole in the hood rear, but
it will match stitch for stitch and I promise it will work.
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JOIN: Place all end of round sl st joins so they sit underneath the hood when worn for most
professional look. Position ROUND 1 of Round Panel 1 in the opening of the hood in the rear that is
already attached to the sweater, using the same (sl st, ch 1) join method through the outer loops, join
around working a stitch in each st of panel 3 and join rows. You will double up ONE stitch at the end.
(119 sts available, 120 in the round panel 1) Do the double up at the last st, sl st to the beginning of the
join round and tie off the yarn.
Round Panel 2:
Chain 80, sl st to form ring:
Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made. (80)
Rnd 4-7: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off after round 7.
JOIN: Join round one of the panel just made to the opening in the hood which is the last round of the
previous round panel joined using the same (sl st, ch 1) method as throughout, sl st to the beginning of
the join round when complete and tie off.
Round Panel 3:
Round Panel 4:
Chain 60, sl st to form a ring:
Rnd 1: ch 1, hdc in same ch and in each ch around, sl st to 1st ch made. (60)
Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, *hdc in nxt st, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, repeat from *
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Round Panel 5:
Round Panel 6:
Round Panel 7:
Create and join exactly the same as for Round Panel 6.
Round Panel 8:
Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, *hdc in nxt st, hdc dec over nxt 2 sts, repeat from *
Rnd 3-7: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st st made, tie off after round 7. (20)
Round Panel 9:
Rnd 2-4: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made. (20)
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Rnd 5: ch 1, turn, hdc dec over 1st 2 sts, (hdc dec over nxt 2 sts), nine times more, sl st to 1st st made.
(10)
Rnd 6-7: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made, tie off after round 7. (10)
Round Panel 10:
Rnd 2-6: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made. (10)
Rnd 7: ch 1, turn, (hdc dec over nxt 2 sts) five times total, sl st to 1st st made, tie off, use end tail to
weave any remaining hole closed. (5)
Optional Pom Pom & Curl-e-ques:
Curl 1:
Chain 21:
Row 1: 4 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 hdc in each rem chain across, tie off.
You can twist and coax the curl into a perfect spiral as needed.
Curl 2:
Chain 41:
Row 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook and 3 sc in each rem chain across, tie off.
Make (1) 1” Pom Pom.
Use the tails from the curls and pom pom to attach to the tip last round of Round Panel 10. Weave in all
ends.
P a g e | 36
9. CREATE OPENING EXTENSION PANEL (Make 1)
***HERE IS SIZING OPPORTUNITIES!***
REFER TO THIS CHART TO SLIGHTLY ALTER THE SIZE OF YOUR FINISHED COAT, DO NOT CHANGE for
2X/3X.
CHEST PANEL FINISHED CHEST FINISHED WAIST FITS ACTUAL FITS ACTUAL
ALTERING-SIZE BODY BUST BODY WAIST
NONE – 43” 37” 36-44” 30”-38”
Middle Option
ADD 4 ROWS- 45” 39” Up to 46” Up to 40”
Largest Option
MINUS 4 ROWS- 41” 35” Up to 42” Up to 36”
Smallest Option
MAKE NO CHANGES FOR 2X/3X SIZE!
If you would like to reduce the size of the bust and waist even more from the smallest size shown in
the chart, you can safely eliminate this panel entirely and move directly on to the next chest panel. If
you removed 2nd bodice panel for petite sizing, be sure to reduce the chest panel accordingly.
Chain 362:
I created this panel in 3 colors, working 2 rows of each color. You may do this or you may work the
entire panel solid.
If you choose to change colors: at the final yarn over/pull through of the LAST stitch of the row, drop
and cut the current color and perform that final yarn over/pull through with the new color and begin to
use it on the next row.
Row 1(rs): sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (361)
Row 2-6: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, tie off after row 6. (361)
See chart at the beginning of this section to add or subtract to adjust size slightly if desired.
Join: Position the garment as shown below. Take the chest extension panel just made and fold it evenly
in half (short ways, somewhere around stitch number 180 is the center). Take that center stitch and
using a strand of yarn or pin, tack it in the center top of the hood in line with the center seam at the top
of the hood that closed it shut with row 1 of the panel meeting the body of the sweater already made.
This is done so that if you need to adjust your join row at all if you added or subtracted a stitch in any
join round of the piece, you can do so evenly between the sides and have your button panels end up
evenly placed. Join the yarn to the 1st st at the corner of the chest extension panel at the bottom right
and the 2nd sc of 3sc corner at the bottom skirt extension panel, shown on the image with the word
“JOIN”. Using the same (sl st, ch 1) join method as throughout, join the extension panel to the entire
inside opening of the jacket working in each st and join row around, ending with a sl st in the opposite
end corner 2nd sc of the 3 sc group of both the opening extension panel and the skirt extension panel.
P a g e | 37
NOTE: Your extension panel is freshly created and your sweater has been handled quite a bit already in
its creation. Because of this, even though I had the proper amount of stitches to go around, I had to tug
the panel to match up around. Again, if you were off a little on your edging of any of the pieces, DO NOT
worry, simply double up a join or add a join as needed to fit the panel in the opening, you should be very
close with only a few adjustments needed.)
10. CREATE THE FINAL OPENING PANEL WITH BUTTON PANELS:
If you would like to reduce the size of the coat even further from the smallest size shown on the chart,
you can eliminate rows 2 &3 from this panel. If you removed bodice panel 2 for petite sizing, be sure
to adjust this panel as well.
Create Main Panel:
With main join color, chain 362:
Row 1(rs): hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across. (361)
Rows 2-4: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across, tie off after row 4 for all sizes BUT 2X/3X.
Rows 5-8: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across, tie off for 2X/3X now.
Join: Position the garment as shown below. Lay right side of row 1 up and row 1 of the final opening
panel next to the chest extension panel already joined. Join the join row color yarn through both outer
loops of the 1st sc on the bottom, as shown by an “X” on the image, join the entire panel around to the
opening extension panel using the same (sl st, ch 1) method as throughout, when you reach the
opposite bottom corner, tie off.
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Create button panels:
IMPORTANT NOTE! Did you know that button panels were originally oriented as they are today
because women had others dress them and men dressed themselves, hence the opposite side for
positioning? Well, I must have a dominant mind because in designing I realized later that I had the
buttons and holes positioned opposite what is standard for a woman’s garment. BUT, you know
what? I decided to leave it as a “happy accident” testament to the power of women. I hope you enjoy
this fun lighthearted touch!
Left Side with button holes (Left side means the left when envisioning yourself wearing the sweater)
With wrong side facing of the sweater, join the join row color in the bottommost corner stitch of the
sweater, ch 1:
Row 1: hdc in same st and nxt 102 sts. (103)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sl st in 1st st, hdc in each rem st across. (103)
Row 3: (Create button holes) ch 1, turn, sc in same st and nxt 3 sts, (ch 3, sk nxt 3 sts, sc in nxt 10 sts)
seven times total, ch 3, sk nxt 3 sts, sc in nxt 3 sts, sl st in the last 2 sts. (103 sts counting the chains and
sts)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, sl st in the same st and nxt st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, make 3 hdc in the nxt ch-3 sp (work into
the space, not into the chains), (hdc in nxt 10 sts, 3 hdc in the nxt ch-3 sp) seven times total, hdc in last 4
sts. (103)
Row 5: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across until just before the last 3 sts, sl st in the last 3 sts. (103)
Row 6: ch 1, turn, do not work the 1st st or nxt 2 sts, sl st in the nxt st and sc in each rem st, tie off.
Right Side with no holes (Right side means the right when envisioning yourself wearing the sweater)
With wrong side of sweater facing, join the join color with a sl st in the 103rd st counting towards the
hood from the bottom right corner st of the final chest panel, ch 1:
P a g e | 39
Row 1: hdc in same st and next 102 sts. (103)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 102 sts, sl st in the last st. (103)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, sl st in the 1st 2 sts, sc in the rem 101 sts. (103)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 101 sts, sl st in last 2 sts. (103)
Row 5: ch 1, turn, sl st in the 1st 3 sts, hdc in the rem 100 sts. (103)
Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc in 1st 99 sts, sl st in the nxt st, sk nxt 2 sts, sl st in last st, tie off.
11: FINAL EDGING:
Position the garment as shown and join the join row color with a sl st in the bottom left st of the button
panel as marked with an “X” on the image below, inserting hook in both loops:
Rnd 1: ch 1, (sl st, ch 1) in each st (both loops for this final round), join row, and row end around, 1st
working up one side of the chest, then around the hood, down the 2nd side of the chest, continuing
across the entire bottom edge of the skirt extension panel, at the corners of the bottom work 2 repeats
of (sl st, ch 1) in each stitch so you do not pucker the corners, sl st to the 1st sl st made, tie off.
P a g e | 40
12. FINAL ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING:
1. Weave in any rem ends.
2. Stitch on chest panel buttons: Lay them on the side of the final opening panel (when being worn left,
side opposite the button hole panel). Space the buttons, laying the button panel over the other side (be
sure bottom edges are matched), pin them in place if needed to keep in place until stitching. Using
coordinating sewing thread, stitch the button well onto the panel. As a general guide, there should be
about 9 sts in between each button and about 4 sts after the last button on the bottom.
3. Stitch on sleeve buttons: Using the thread, stitch one button on either sleeve cuff, using the photo
below for placement. Place them on the button panel in a position to be able to be slid through the
holes to close.
4. Block as described at the beginning of the pattern.
Please post projects and questions to any of the social media sites below, and/or email me at
info@crochetverse.com
Much Love and Yarn,
Stephanie
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The information and photos in this posting are the sole copyrighted property of Crochetverse©2017. Please do not
copy and paste any of the information contained within either electronically, verbally, or written in part or in whole.
Instead, please share the DIRECT LINK to this posting only, and if you do, I thank you for sharing. You of course
may sell anything you make from this pattern that you have made with your own two hands; no contract labor or
mass productions are permitted. If you credit Crochetverse as the designer, that is greatly appreciated!
P a g e | 41
No need to print! Shown below is each tester’s finished coat and their personal stats!
Heather:
Hook needed to obtain gauge: F 3.75 mm
Yarn used: Big Twist Value in Black, Soft Grey, Scarlet, Pumpkin, Butter cup, Lime, Medium Teal, Royal
Blue, and Blueberry
Approx yardage used: most of 10 skeins @ 371 yards each, so approx. 3700 yards, maybe closer to 3500.
Any changes made to the pattern? no
Finished measurement from edge to edge of the waist band (including the chest & button panels):41.5"
Finished measurement of the garment from armpit to armpit when laid flat:22"
Finished measurement of the armhole at the widest point when laid flat (measure shoulder seam to
armpit):10.5"
Finished measurement of the narrowest ring at the elbow when laid flat:5.5"
Your height:5'4"
Your bust at the fullest point around: 37"
Your waist at the narrowest point around: 36"

P a g e | 42
Sandi:
Hook needed to obtain gauge: F hook (ended up being over gauge resulting in a really cute drop waist
look! Happy accident!)
Yarn used: I Love This Yarn
Approx yardage used: About 3000 yards of your color choice!
Any changes made to the pattern? I left off one ring on the sleeves as well as the last ring with the
button on it. The person I gave the sweater to only has 18 inch long arms. It worked out perfect.
Finished measurement from edge to edge of the waist band (including the chest & button panels): 20
1/2 inches
Finished measurement of the garment from armpit to armpit when laid flat: 25 inches
Finished measurement of the armhole at the widest point when laid flat (measure shoulder seam to
armpit): 10 ½ inches
Finished measurement of the narrowest ring at the elbow when laid flat: 5 inches
Your height: 5'2” Your bust at the fullest point around: 36DD
Your waist at the narrowest point around: 28 inches

P a g e | 43
Michaela:
Hook needed to obtain gauge: 4.5 mm crochet hook
Yarn used: worsted weight rhss 4 skeins of white and 2 and a partial of black Approx yardage used: roughly 2300-2400
Any changes made to the pattern? for the actual button holes I didn't add the very bottom last button I felt it was too close to
the edge I also did short sleeves instead of long sleeves.
Finished measurement from edge to edge of the waist band (including the chest & button panels): 18”
Finished measurement of the garment from armpit to armpit when laid flat: 20”
Finished measurement of the armhole at the widest point when laid flat (measure shoulder seam to armpit): 9” folded in half
so 18” around
Finished measurement of the narrowest ring at the elbow when laid flat: - I didn't do long sleeves I did short sleeves but edge
of the last ring of the short sleeves I have 23.5” across if it's buttoned. I put 2 rings for the sleeves
Your height: -5’5” Your bust at the fullest point around: -44”
P a g e | 44
Clarissa: (altered in gauge and yarn weight for petite person, used DK weight yarn!)
Hook Size used to meet gauge? 4mm hook and DK weight yarn My gauge was 20 HDC X 13 Rows = 4X4
Yarn used? Ice Yarns Merino Gold Batik White Pink Blue 4 @ 437yds Edge Color- Ice Yarns Doli Light
Turquoise 3.5 @ 246yds Join Color- Ice Yarns Virgin Wool Fine Light Grey 2 @ 273yds 3) MC- 1,748 Yards
EC- 861 Yards JC- 546 Yards 4)
Alterations for variegated yarn and edging of panels: For the waist band, instead of doing a partial edge
round I did a full edge round. All I did was work 3 SC in each corner just like the edging on the prior
pieces and omitted the additional 2HDC that was called for on each corner of Row 1.
For my sleeve rings, I used my edge color for the first and final round of each. For Sleeve Ring 6, instead
of working HDC I did 3 rounds of SC again using my edge color for the first and last rounds.
Measurement edge to edge of waist band? 19.5” Measurement of armpit laid flat? 23”
Armhole width at armpit laid flat: 8.5” Width of elbow area laid flat?4.5”
Your height? 5' Petite Full bust around? 36” Narrowest waist around? 29”
Crocodile Stitch Hooded Cardigan (Baby & Toddler)
Designed by Rachel Azulay© 2014
Technical Editor: Leslie Cruz
Text and mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying, without written permission. Finished products
created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale. It is appreciated if design credit to Bonita Patterns is listed in finished products.
images Copyright ©2014 by Bonita Patterns & Lianka and Rachel Azulay, all rights reserved. No pattern may be reproduced or distributed —
Crocodile Stitch Hooded Angel Cardigan (Baby & Toddler)
D e s ig n e d b y R a c h e l A z u la y © 2 0 1 4
Materials:
Fingering weight yarn

0 - 6 mos = approx 1400 yards
6 -12 mos = approx 1600 yards
12 mos - 2 yrs = approx 1800 yards
The piece showcased was made with 3 skeins of Bonita Yarns; Angora Cloud (color way: Turquoise
Shades (45% Angora, 55% Acrylic- 601 yds/ 550m). This yarn will available at
https://www.etsy.com/shop/bonitapatterns in November 2014.
A comparable yarn is Patons Lace (80% acrylic, 10% mohair, 10% wool - 498 yd / 455 m per skein)
Crochet Hook: F (3.75 mm)
1 tapestry needle
Measurements: Bodice Circumference
2 wood buttons (picture ¾ in diameter)
0 mos – 6 mos: 22 in
Crocodile Stitch Hooded Angel Cardigan 6 mos – 12 mos: 24 in

sampled in pattern is the 12 – 2 yrs size.
12 mos – 2 yrs: 26 in
Gauge:
With hook size F (3.75mm) in HDC pattern:
6 sts and 4 rows = 1"
Special Stitches Used:
Abbreviations: Front Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc) – Yo

and insert hook from the front to the back
Beginning (beg) around the post of the dc of previous row.
Chain (ch) Complete as for a regular hdc stitch
Repeat (rep)
Right Side (RS) V-Stitch (V-st) – Work (dc, ch1, dc) in st
Single Crochet (sc) indicated
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Space (sp) Half Double Crochet 2 stitches together
Stitch (st) (hdc2tog) - * yo, insert hook in next stitch, yo,
Wrong Size (WS) draw up a loop * with three loops on the hook
Yarn Over (yo) rep from *, with 5 loops on your hook; yo, pull
Double Crochet (dc) through all 5 loops on hook - 2 hdc decreased
Half Double Crochet (hdc) to 1 hdc
Pattern Notes:
1. Instructions given to sizes; [0 - 6 is coded in black font], [6 – 12 in coded in red font], [12 – 2 in
coded in blue font] for easy identification. ex: 0-6 [6-12, 12-2]
2. The Crocodile Stitch Hooded Angel Cardigan (Baby & Kids) is formed by 4 Sections: The Body;
Bodice (front left/right panels and back panel); Sleeves and Hood. These sections are worked in
a combination of the Crocodile Stitch and HDC and joined during finishing with minor sewing.
3. Those familiar with our previous child sized Crocodile Stitch pieces will recall that we work the
scales to appear smaller with HDC throughout the pattern. In this pattern, the Crocodile Stitch is
constructed with a row of V-sts in DC and the scales in HDC.
4. In short, the Crocodile Stitch is formed by a two-row repeat. A row of V-sts followed by a row of
scales (or shells). This is a fairly easy pattern to execute and fast to memorize. The only novelty
about this design is that the scales are crocheted in front of the V-sts with clusters of front post
half double crochet (fphdc) from top to bottom, then from bottom to top, as opposed to working
them on top of the row, like in most shell patterns.
Body Directions:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 111 [123, 135] V-st in 6th ch from hook (first 3 ch count as first dc of row and 2 skipped
sts) *skip next 2 ch, V-st in next ch, rep from * across to last 3 sts; skip next 2 ch, dc in last ch; turn –
(35 [39, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 3 (count as a dc), working from top to bottom around post of first dc of first V-st, work
4 fphdc (see pic A), ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside down
(V point of V-st will be facing right; see pic B), working from bottom to top around post of second dc of
V-st, work 5 fphdc (see pic C), * skip next V-st, working from top to bottom work 5 fphdc around post
of first dc of next V-st, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways, working from bottom to top around post of
second dc of V-st, work 5 fphdc, rep from * across (see pic D); turn – (18 [20, 22] scales)
Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, V-st in next ch-1 sp, *yo, insert hook in next ch-1 sp and in sp between scales
directly behind ch-1 sp (see photo E), complete as V-st. V-st in next ch-1 sp, rep from * across to last
dc, dc in last dc (see pic E); turn – (35 [39, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 4 (RS): Sl st in first 2 sts, sl st in next ch-1 sp, working from top to bottom around post of first dc
of next V-st, work 5 fphdc, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside
down, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 fphdc * skip next V-st,
working from top to bottom around post of first dc of next V-st, work 5 fphdc, ch 1, turn work so V-st is
sideways, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 fphdc, rep from *across
to last V-st, sl st in next ch-1 sp, sl st in next 2 sts; turn – (17 [19, 21] scales)
4 fphdc (see pic B), ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside down
(V point of V-st will be facing right; see pic C), working from bottom to top around post of second dc of
V-st, work 5 fphdc (see pic D), * skip next V-st, working from top to bottom work 5 fphdc around post
second dc of V-st, work 5 fphdc, rep from * across; turn – (18 [20, 22] scales)
Row 7 (WS): Ch 3, V-st in next ch-1 sp, *yo, insert in next ch-1 sp between scales directly behind ch-1
(see pic E), complete as V-st, V-st in next ch-1 sp, rep from* across to last dc, dc in last dc (see pic F);
turn – 35 [39, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 8 (RS): Rep Row 4; turn – (17 [19, 21] scales)
Row 9 (WS): Rep Row 5; turn – (35 [39, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 11: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in next 2 sts, hdc in next ch-1 sp, hdc in next 2 sts, * yo, insert
hook in next ch-1 sp and in sp between scales directly behind ch-1 sp and complete a hdc, hdc in next 2
sts, hdc in next ch-1 sp, hdc in next 2 sts rep from * across to last 5 sts, hdc in each of the last 5 sts; turn
– (109 [121, 133] hdc)
Row 12 – Row 14: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across; turn - (109 [121, 133] hdc)
Row 15 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), * skip 2 sts, V-st in next hdc * rep from * across to last 3 hdc; dc in
last hdc; turn – (35 [39, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
– (109 [121, 133] hdc)
Row 26 – Row 28: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across; turn - (109 [121, 133] hdc)
– (109 [121, 133] hdc) DO NOT FASTEN OFF; Continue on to Bodice Front (LEFT Panel)
Bodice: Front (LEFT Panel) Directions:
Note: Continue with working yarn of body section (see Diagram A)
Row 40 (RS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in next 27 [30, 33] hdc; turn – (27 [30, 33] hdc)
Row 41 (WS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across to last 3 hdc, hdc2tog in next 2 hdc,
hdc in last hdc; turn – (26 [29, 32] hdc)
Row 42 (RS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in first hdc, hdc2tog in next 2 hdc, hdc across to last
hdc; hdc in last hdc; turn – (25 [28, 31] hdc)
Row 43 (WS): Rep Row 41; turn – (24 [27, 30] hdc)
Row 44 (RS): Rep Row 42; turn – (23 [26, 29] hdc)
Row 51 (WS) – Row 55 (WS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across; turn – (17 [20, 23]
hdc)
Row 56 (RS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across; Fasten off – (17 [20, 23] hdc)
Bodice: Front (RIGHT Panel) Directions:
Note: Working on opposite end of Row 39 of the established Body and Bodice: Left Panel sections:
begin with RS of work facing you; (see Diagram A) Count 27 [30, 33] stitches from Left to Right; join
yarn with a sl st.
Row 40 (RS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in next 27 [30, 33] hdc; turn – (27 [30, 33] hdc)
Row 41 (WS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in first hdc, hdc2tog in next 2 hdc, hdc across to last
hdc; hdc in last hdc; turn – (26 [29, 32] hdc)
Row 42 (RS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across to last 3 hdc, hdc2tog in next 2 hdc,
hdc in last hdc; turn – (25 [28, 31] hdc)
Row 51 (WS) – Row 55 (WS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across; turn – (17 [20, 23]
hdc)
Bodice: (Back Panel) Directions:
Note: Begin with RS of work facing you; Attach yarn with sl st in 3rd unworked stitch from the far right of
available stitches of Row 39 (see Diagram A)
Row 40 (RS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across to last 3 hdc; hdc in next hdc; (leaving
last 2 hdc unworked) turn – (51 [57, 63] hdc)
Row 41 (WS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across; turn – (51 [57, 63] hdc)
Row 42 (RS) – Row 55 (WS): Rep Row 41; turn – (51 [57, 63] hdc)
Sleeves Directions: (make 2)
Note: The sleeves are worked flat and then seamed during the finishing and assembly section with
minor sewing
Row 1 (WS): Ch 51 [51, 57] V-st in 6th ch from hook (first 3 ch count as first dc of row and 2 skipped sts)
*skip next 2 ch, V-st in next ch, rep from * across to last 3 sts; skip next 2 ch, dc in last ch; turn –
(15 [15, 17] V-sts + 2 dc)
dc, dc in last dc (see pic E); turn – (15 [15,17] V-sts + 2 dc)
turn – 15 [15, 17] V-sts + 2 dc)
– (49 [49, 55] hdc)
Row 12 – Row 14: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across; turn – (49 [49, 55] hdc)
– (49 [49, 55] hdc)
– (49 [49, 55] hdc)
Row 43: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across; leaving a 18 in tail for seaming the sleeve
closed; Fasten off – (49 [49, 55] hdc)
Use yarn tail and tapestry needle: fold sleeve with RS facing in on itself and seam corresponding
rows together to close the sleeve. Flip inside out once seamed to view your completed sleeve.
Hood Directions:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 81 [87, 93] V-st in 6th ch from hook (first 3 ch count as first dc of row and 2 skipped sts)
*skip next 2 ch, V-st in next ch, rep from * across to last 3 sts; skip next 2 ch, dc in last ch; turn –
(25 [27, 29] V-sts + 2 dc)
dc, dc in last dc (see pic E); turn – (25 [27,29] V-sts + 2 dc)
turn – 25 [27, 29] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 42 (RS): Rep Row 6; turn – (13 [14, 15] scales) – there will be 21 scale rows
Row 43 (WS): Ch 1 (doesn’t count as sc) sc in next 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 sts, * yo, insert
hook in next ch-1 sp and in sp between scales directly behind ch-1 sp and complete a sc, sc in next 2
sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 sts rep from * across to last 5 sts, sc in each of the last 5 sts; Fasten
off leaving an 18 in tail. (see Finishing section) – (79 [85, 91] sc)
Use yarn tail and tapestry needle to sew up both ends of Row 43 together to close the hood.
Button Closure and Button Placement:
Note: Button closure is worked in the round with a round of chains, then a round of slip stitches
to give the appearance of a knitted i-cord. The piece is then twisted in the middle and affixed to
the cardigan as a button loop.
Rnd 1- Ch 35, being careful not to twist foundation chain join in last chain from hook – (35 chs)
Rnd 2- Sl st in each ch around; join with sl st of beg of round st – (35 sl sts)
Rnd 3- Sl st in each sl st around; leaving a 9 in tail Fasten off. – (35 sl sts)
Use yarn tail to sew button closure to final piece and twist the i-cord as pictured below.
Button Closure
is secured to left
front panel.
Note: the twisted
i-cord; the twist is
also sew
securely.
Attach buttons
as pictured.
Finishing and Assembly:
= Twisted i-cord
button loop
= buttons
Sew Sew
Sew Hood
along the collar
Attach Sleeve
and back
Attach Sleeve
Using yarn tail, seam Row 43

together to close hood
Photo Tutorial:
Note: Yarn weight and hook were changed for better visualization on photos.

(Picture A) V-st row worked with DC instead of HDC (Picture B) Ch 1, working from top to bottom
around post of first dc of first V-st, work 5 fphdc.
The back of the stitches (WS) will be visible.
(Picture C) Turn work so V-st is (Picture D) Working from bottom to top

sideways and post of second dc of V-st around post of second dc of V-st, work 5
is upside down (V point of V-st will be fphdc.
facing right).
(Picture E) Yo, insert hook in next sp
(Picture D cont.) First rep of crocodile scales between scales and in ch-1 sp directly
completed. behind scales and complete a V-st.
(Picture G) V-st row in DC completed.

(Picture F) V-st completed.
Should you have any questions about this pattern, please contact us at patternsupport@bonitapatterns.com
and
we will be happy to assist you.
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(Diagram A) Bodice: Right, Back and Left Panels
Decreases
Decreases
Beginning of right panel Beginning of back panel Beginning of left panel
2 skipped stitches per side

Bodice: Left Panel
Bodice: Right Panel
Attach yarn with sl st in 3rd available stitch
Crocodile Stitch Hooded Cape (Baby & Kids)
Designed by Rachel Azulay© 2014
Technical Editor: Leslie Cruz

Crocodile Stitch Hooded Cape (Baby & Kids)
D e s ig n e d b y R a c h e l A z u la y © 2 0 1 4
Materials:
Worsted weight yarn
The piece showcased was made with 4 skeins of Cascade Cherub (Aran 55% nylon, 45% acrylic 100g /
3.5 oz - 240 yds/220 m)
Crochet Hook: F (3.75 mm)
1 tapestry needle
Measurements: Cape Circumference
1 large wood button 1 in
0 mos – 6 mos: 24 in
Crocodile Stitch Hooded Cape sampled in 6 mos – 12 mos: 26 in

pattern is the 2 – 4 yrs size.
12 mos – 2 yrs: 28 in
2 yrs – 4 yrs: 30 in
Gauge:
With hook size F (3.75mm) in HDC pattern:
10 sts and 7 rows = 2"
Special Stitches Used:
Abbreviations: Front Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc) – Yo

and insert hook from the front to the back
Beginning (beg) around the post of the dc of previous row.
Chain (ch) Complete as for a regular hdc stitch
Repeat (rep)
Right Side (RS) V-Stitch (V-st) – Work (dc, ch1, dc) in st
Single Crochet (sc) indicated
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Space (sp) Half Double Crochet 2 stitches together
Stitch (st)
(hdc2tog) - * yo, insert hook in next stitch, yo,
Wrong Size (WS)
Yarn Over (yo) draw up a loop * with three loops on the hook
Double Crochet (dc) rep from *, with 5 loops on your hook; yo, pull
Half Double Crochet (hdc) through all 5 loops on hook - 2 hdc decreased
to 1 hdc
Pattern Notes:
1. Instructions given to sizes; [0 - 6 is coded in black font], [6 – 12 in coded in red font], [12 – 2 in
coded in blue font] [2 – 4 in coded in green font] for easy identification
EX: 0-6 [6-12, 12-2, 2-4]
2. The Crocodile Stitch Hooded Cape (Kids) is formed by 2 Sections: The Cape and Hood. These
sections are worked in Crocodile Stitch and HDC Stitch and joined during finishing with minor
sewing.
3. Those familiar with our previous child sized Crocodile Stitch pieces will recall that we work the
scales to appear smaller with HDC throughout the pattern. In this pattern, the Crocodile Stitch is
constructed with a row of V-sts in DC and the scales in HDC.
4. In short, the Crocodile Stitch is formed by a two-row repeat. A row of V-sts followed by a row of
scales (or shells). This is a fairly easy pattern to execute and fast to memorize. The only novelty
about this design is that the scales are crocheted in front of the V-sts with clusters of front post
half double crochet (fphdc) from top to bottom, then from bottom to top, as opposed to working
them on top of the row, like in most shell patterns.
Cape Directions:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 99 [111, 123, 135] V-st in 6th ch from hook (first 3 chs count as first dc and 2 skipped
stitches of row) *skip next 2 chs, Vst in next ch, rep from *across to last 3 sts; skip 2 chs and dc in last st
(see pic A); turn – (31 [35, 37, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 2(RS: Ch 3 (count as a dc here and throughout), working from top to bottom around post of first
dc of first V-st, work 4 fphdc (see pic B), ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-
st is upside down (V point of V-st will be facing right; see pic C), working from bottom to top around
post of second dc of V-st, work 5 fphdc (see pic D), * skip next V-st, working from top to bottom work 5
fphdc around post of first dc of next V-st, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways, working from bottom to
top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 fphdc, rep from * across (see pic D); turn – (16 [18, 20,
22] scales)
Row 3(WS): Ch 3, V-st in next ch-1 sp, *yo, insert hook in next ch-1 sp and in sp between scales
directly behind ch-1 sp (see photo E), complete as V-st, V-st in next ch-1 sp, rep from * across to last
dc, dc in last dc (see pic E); turn – (31 [35, 37, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 4(RS): Sl st in first 2 sts, sl st in next ch-1 sp, working from top to bottom around post of first dc of
next V-st, work 5 fphdc, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside
to last V-st, sl, st in next ch-1 sp, sl st in next 2 sts; turn – (15 [17, 19, 21] scales)Row 5(WS): Ch 3, V-st
in next ch-1 sp, *yo, insert hook in next ch-1 sp between scales directly behind ch-1 sp (see pic E),
complete as V-st, V-st in next ch-1 sp, rep from * across to last dc, dc in last dc
(see pic F); turn – (31 [35, 37, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
second dc of V-st, work 5 fphdc, rep from * across; turn – (16 [18, 20, 22] scales)
Row 7(WS): Ch 3, V-st in next ch-1 sp, *yo, insert in next ch-1 sp between scales directly behind ch-1
turn – 31 [35, 37, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 8(RS): Rep Row 4; turn – (15 [17, 19, 21] scales)
Row 9(WS): Rep Row 5; turn – (31 [35, 37, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 10 (RS): Rep Row 6; turn – (16 [18, 20, 22] scales)
Row 11 (WS): Rep Row 5; turn – (31 [35, 37, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 13(WS): Rep Row 5; turn – (31 [35, 37, 43] V-sts 31 + 2 dc)
– (97 [109, 121, 133] hdc)
Row 16 – Row 18: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in each hdc across; turn - (97 [109, 121, 133] hdc)
Row 19 (WS) Ch 3 (counts as dc), * skip 2 sts, V-st in next st * rep from * across to last 3sts; dc in last
st; turn – (31 [35, 39, 43] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 20 (RS) Rep Row 6; turn – (16 [17, 20, 22] scales)
Row 21 (WS) Increase: Ch 3 (counts as dc) V-st in base of ch3. V-st in next ch-1 sp. * yo, insert in next
ch-1 sp between scales directly behind ch-1 (see pic E), complete as V-st, V-st in next ch-1 sp, rep from
* across to last dc, dc in last dc; turn – (33 [37, 39, 45] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 22 (RS): Rep Row 6; turn - (17 [19, 21, 23] scales)
Row 23 (WS) Increase: Rep Row 21; turn - (35 [39, 41, 47] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 25 (WS) Increase: Rep Row 21; turn – (37 [41, 43, 49] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 27 (WS) Increase: Rep Row 21; turn – (39 [43, 45, 51] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 33 (WS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc) hdc in next 2 sts, hdc in next ch-1 sp, hdc in next 2 sts, *yo,
insert hook in next ch-1 sp and in sp between scales directly behind ch-1 sp and complete a hdc, hdc in
next 2 sts, hdc in next ch-1 sp, hdc in next 2 sts rep from * across to last 5 sts, hdc in each of the last 5
sts; turn – (121 [127, 145, 157] hdc)
Note: Proceed to appropriately sized decrease section for the collar shaping. Each size was
written separately.
Collar Decreases for the 0 – 6 months size ONLY
Row 34 (RS) decrease: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc, hdc2tog; * hdc 7, hdc2tog * rep from * 13
times across; hdc in last hdc; turn – (107 hdc)
Row 35 (WS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc in each hdc across; turn – (107 hdc)
times; hdc 5; hdc2tog. * hdc 6, hdc2tog * rep from * 6 times; hdc in last hdc; turn – (93 hdc)
Row 37 (WS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc in each hdc across to last 8 sts.
making the buttonhole: with remaining 8 sts available: ch 4, skip next 4 hdc and hdc in remaining 4
sts; turn (89 hdc + Ch-4 sp)
Row 38 (RS): Ch2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc in next 4 hdc, hdc across next 4 chains; hdc to end of
row; turn – (93 hdc)
Row 39(RS) decrease: Ch2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc, hdc2tog; * hdc 5, hdc2tog * rep from * 5 times;
hdc 3; hdc2tog. * hdc 5, hdc2tog * rep from * 5 times; hdc in last hdc; turn – (79 hdc)
Row 40 (WS): Ch2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc in each hdc across. FASTEN OFF – (79 hdc)
Continue on to Hood Section.
Collar Decreases for the 6 - 12 mos size ONLY
Row 34(RS) decrease: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc, hdc2tog; * hdc 8, hdc2tog * rep from * 6 times;
hdc; hdc2tog. * hdc 8, hdc2tog * rep from * 6 times; hdc in last hdc; turn – (113 hdc)
Row 35(WS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc in each hdc across; turn – (113 hdc)
Row 36(RS) decrease: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc, hdc2tog; * hdc 7, hdc2tog * rep from * 5 times;
hdc 17; hdc2tog. * hdc 7, hdc2tog * rep from * 5 times; hdc in last hdc. Turn – (101 hdc)
Row 37(WS) Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc in each hdc across to last 8 sts.
making the Buttonhole: with remaining 8 sts available: ch 4, skip next 4 hdc and hdc in remaining 4sts;
turn – (97 hdc + Ch 4 sp)
Row 38 (RS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc in next 4 hdc, hdc across next 4 chains; hdc to end of
Row 40 (WS) Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc in each hdc across. FASTEN OFF – (89 hdc)
Collar Decreases for the 12 - 2 years size ONLY
Row 34: (RS) decrease: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc, hdc2tog; * hdc 9, hdc2tog * rep from * 6
times; hdc 7; hdc2tog. * hdc 9, hdc2tog * rep from * 6 times; hdc in last hdc. Turn – (131 hdc)
Row 36: (RS) decrease: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc, hdc2tog; * hdc 8, hdc2tog * rep from * 6
times; hdc 3; hdc2tog. * hdc 7, hdc2tog * rep from * 6 times; hdc in last hdc. Turn – (103 hdc)
making the Buttonhole: with remaining 10 sts available: ch 5, skip next 5 hdc and hdc in remaining 5
sts. Turn – (98 hdc + Ch5 sp)
rowTurn – (103 hdc)
Row 41 (WS) decrease: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc, hdc2tog; * hdc 6, hdc2tog * rep from * 6
times; hdc; hdc2tog. * hdc 6, hdc2tog * rep from * 6 times; hdc in last hdc; turn – (89 hdc)
Row 42(RS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc in each hdc across. FASTEN OFF – (89 hdc)
Collar Decreases for the 12 – 2 years size ONLY
making the Buttonhole: with remaining 10sts available: ch5, skip next 5hdc and hdc in remaining 5 sts;
turn – (110 hdc + Ch5 sp)
Row 41 (WS) decrease: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc, hdc2tog; * hdc 7, hdc2tog * rep from * 6
times; hdc; hdc2tog. * hdc 7, hdc2tog * rep from * 6 times; hdc in last hdc; turn – (101 hdc)
Row 42 (RS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc in each hdc across. Fasten Off – (101 hdc)
Hood Directions:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 69 [75, 81, 81] dc in 6th ch from hook (first 3 chs count as first dc and 2 skipped
stitches of row) *skip next 2 chs, V-st in next ch, rep from * across to last 3 sts; skip 2 chs and dc in last
st; turn; turn – (21 [23, 25, 25] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 3 (count as a dc here and throughout), working from top to bottom around post of first
dc of first V-st, work 4 fphdc (see pic B), ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of
V-st is upside down (V point of V-st will be facing right; see pic C), working from bottom to top around
post of second dc of V-st, work 5 fphdc (see pic D), * skip next V-st, working from top to bottom work 5
fphdc around post of first dc of next V-st, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways, working from bottom to
top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 fphdc, rep from * across; turn – (11 [12, 13, 13] scales)
Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, V-st in next ch-1 sp, *yo insert hook in next ch-1 sp and in sp between scales
directly behind ch-1 sp, complete as V-st, V-st in next ch-1 sp, rep from *across to last dc, dc in last st;
turn – (21 [23, 25, 25] V-sts + 2 dc)
down, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 fphdc, * skip next V-st,
working from top to bottom around post of first dc of next V-st, work 5 fphdc, ch-1, turn work so V-st is
to last V-st, sl st in next ch-1 sp, sl st in each next 2 sts; turn – (10 [11, 12, 12] scales)
Row 5 (WS): Ch 3, V-st in next ch-1 sp, *yo insert hook in next ch-1 sp and in sp between scales
directly behind ch-1 sp, complete as V-st, V-st in next ch-1 sp, rep from *across to last dc, dc in last st;
turn – (21 [23, 25, 25] V-sts + 2 dc)
Row 37 (WS) Rep Row 5; turn – (21 [23, 25, 25] V-sts + 2 dc)
sts, hdc in next ch-1 sp, hdc in next 2 sts rep from * across to last 5 sts, hdc in each of the last 5 sts.
Turn – (67 [73, 79, 79] hdc) – leaving an 18 in tail. Fasten off. (see pic G)
Use yarn tail and tapestry needle to sew up both ends of Row 39 together to close the hood.
Sew hood to cape and attach button while using the schematic below as a guide
Finishing and Schematics:
of Row 39 (on the front of piece; see pic G)
-3 in-
-7.5 in-
Button Sew hood to cape Buttonhole -3in-
-5in-
HDC rows
v
-5.5in-
v
-30 in-
Other Bonita Patterns
Photo Tutorial:
Note: Yarn weight and hook were changed for better visualization on photos.
(Picture A) V-st row worked with DC instead of HDC (Picture B) Ch 1, working from top to bottom
around post of first dc of first V-st, work 5 fphdc.
The back of the stitches (WS) will be visible.
(Picture C) Turn work so V-st is sideways (Picture D) Working from bottom to top around
and post of second dc of V-st is upside post of second dc of V-st, work 5 fphdc.
down (V point of V-st will be facing right).
(Picture D cont.) First rep of crocodile scales (Picture E) Yo, insert hook in next sp between
completed. scales and in ch-1 sp directly behind scales and
complete a V-st.
(Picture F) V-st completed. (Picture G) V-st row in DC completed.
Row 39: using tail,
sew row together to close
the hood
(Picture G) end of Row 39, closing the hood section

with a seam using the tail after fastening off
Should you have any questions about this pattern, please contact us at
patternsupport@bonitapatterns.com and
we will be happy to assist you.
Now you can purchase Bonita Patterns and download your pattern instantly at my new
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Technicolor Dream Coat

Bulky weight yarn: Worsted weight yarn:

The backpost dc (bpdc):

This pattern outlines sizes based on bust circumference:

Color change. ​Fasten onto a corner st, through both loops.

Change color. ​Fasten onto a corner st, through back loops.

Color change. ​Fasten onto a corner st, through both loops.

Attaching the Back and Front Panels to Create a

Checking the sizing so far:

Continuing the body:

Measured from bottom of armhole to end of coat:

Attach to either front corner-

Change color. ​Fasten onto back loops.

Color change. ​Fasten onto backloops of row 55.

Change color. ​Fasten onto backloops of row 59.

Yay! You are done with the body of the coat!

Creating the Hood:

Pointed Hood Pattern:

Color change (fuzzy yarn)

If working a 2XL or 3XL:

Flat Hood Pattern:

Color change. ​Fasten onto first st of row 4.

Attaching the hood to the body:

Working the trim:

Work row 1 of Catherine’s wheel st across the trim:

Fasten off once you’ve made it all the way around.

Congratulations! I know the trim is a ton of work!

Working the sleeves:

Measured from arm seam to to end of sleeves:

Color change​. ​Fasten onto backloops anywhere on rnd 3.

Color change. ​Fasten onto backloops anywhere on rnd 10.

Color change​. ​Fasten onto backloops anywhere on rnd 20.

Color change: ​Fasten onto any backloops on rnd 22.

Color change​. ​Fasten onto backloops anywhere on rnd 32.

Size Height (inches) Chest (inches) Waist (inches)

Yarns - Knit Pick’s Brava Worsted Weight:

Color - Lady Slipper

Color - Lady Slipper

Color - Fairy Tale

Color - Lady Slipper

Size Height (inches) Chest (inches) Waist (inches)

Yarns - Knit Pick’s Brava Worsted Weight:

Color - Fairy Tale

Color - Lady Slipper

Color - Fairy Tale

Color - Lady Slipper

Elf Coat design by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

Materials & Notes

Sizes: Small, Medium, Large. Pattern

So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is

Elf Coat design by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

also looks gorgeous for this design. RH

Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I

8 sts = 2″ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more

Elf Coat design by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

Video Tutorials: I have created a playlist of

Elf Coat design by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

alternately “opposite” what the Tunisian

Large size Elf Coat laid flat for blocking

Elf Coat design by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the

Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts

Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the

Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts

Color change. Fasten onto a corner st, through both loops.

Change color. Fasten onto a corner st, through back loops.

Color change. Fasten onto a corner st, through both loops.

Change color. Fasten onto back loops.

Color change. Fasten onto backloops of row 55.

Change color. Fasten onto backloops of row 59.

Color change. Fasten onto first st of row 4.

Color change. Fasten onto backloops anywhere on rnd 3.

Color change. Fasten onto backloops anywhere on rnd 10.

Color change. Fasten onto backloops anywhere on rnd 20.

Color change: Fasten onto any backloops on rnd 22.

Color change. Fasten onto backloops anywhere on rnd 32.