BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)

INDUSTRIAL TRAINING REPORT

ON
“HA-MEEM GROUP (TONGI ZONE)”

Submitted By
ATIK FOYSAL RABBI
ID: 191-229-801
RASHIDUL AMIN SHAKIL
ID: 191-254-801
Major: Apparel Manufacturing Engineering

This Internship Report Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the Degree of B.Sc.
in Textile Engineering in the Faculty of Textile Engineering of BGMEA University of Fashion
& Technology (BUFT).

Department of Textile Engineering

BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

March, 2023
 Industrial Training Report
ON
“HA-MEEM GROUP”

Submitted By
ATIK FOYSAL RABBI
ID: 191-229-801
RASHIDUL AMIN SHAKIL
ID: 191-254-801
Major: Apparel Manufacturing Engineering

Submitted To
Department of Textile Engineering
In partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Bachelor of Science in Textile
Engineering

Supervised By
Dr. Sirajul Karim Choudhury
Professor & Dean FES
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)

Department of Textile Engineering

BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

2
 March, 2023

Letter of Transmittal

…. March, 2023
Dr. Sirajul Karim Choudhury
Professor & Dean FES,
Department of Industrial Engineering,
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
Nishatnagar, Dhaka

Subject: Submission of Internship Report.

Dear Sir,
We are extremely indebted for your tremendous support and guidance throughout our long
journey at "BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology" and internship period. Being working
with you, we have earned valuable knowledge and were inspired by your innovativeness, which
helped enrich our experience to a greater extent. An internship report on "HA-MEEM GROUP."
is submitted to you for the partial fulfillment of the Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering
Degree.

During our internship period, we have trained in all departments of HA-MEEM GROUP.; we
made sincere efforts to study related materials, observe operations performed in bonded
warehouse, cutting, sewing, garments washing, finishing & merchandising section which are the
sources of collected data to prepare the present report on Industrial training.

We have to make this report as comprehensive as possible within the time limit. But there may
be some mistakes due to various limitations. For this reason, we beg your sympathetic
consideration. Finally, we pray for your blessing for our successful engineering career.

Thank you,
Yours Faithfully,

ATIK FOYSAL RABBI

ID: 191-229-801
Signature:
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

3
RASHIDUL AMIN SHAKIL
ID: 191-254-801
Signature:
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

Declarations

The internship report on “Creative Collection Ltd.” is submitted by ATIK FOYSAL RABBI,
ID: 191-229-801, RASHIDUL AMIN SHAKIL, ID: 191-254-801. The report is accepted as
satisfactory in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of B.Sc. in Textile
Engineering.

Board of Examiners

Name Signature

1. Supervisor: Dr. Sirajul Karim Choudhury

……………….
Professor & Dean FES
Department of Industrial Engineering

2. Examiner 1: Fahmida-E-Karim
………………. Lecturer,
Dept. of TE

3. Examiner 2: Siddika Haque

……………….
Assistant Professor
Dept. of TE

4
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

At first, we would like to thank Almighty Allah to give me strength and ability to complete the
industrial training and to write the report. We would like to thank A.K Azad, Chairman & CEO,
HA-MEEM Group and to his factory to complete our internship. Being involved with them is
such a pleasure that we couldn’t express.

Then, we would like to thank the management of the HA-MEEM Group (Creative Collection
Ltd.) for giving us the opportunity to do the industrial training successfully and also their
valuable suggestion. Our deepest appreciation goes to Eng. Imran Sarker, IE manager
(Central) for his permission to conduct our industrial training without which it would be
uncompleted.

Secondly, Special thanks goes to our enthusiastic supervisor Dr. Sirajul Karim Choudhury,
Professor & Dean FES, Department of Industrial Engineering, who has been amazing throughout
the semester and we thank him wholeheartedly, not only for tremendous academic support, but
also granting me so many opportunities.

Special thanks go Ranajit Kumar Nag, Associate Professor & Head, Department of Textile
Engineering, BUFT & Prof. Dr. Abu Bakar Siddique, Dean Faculty of Textile Engineering,
BUFT. They so generously Inspired & contributed to do this type of project work.

Special thanks goes to our enthusiastic Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro Vice Chancellor,

5
BUFT & Prof. Dr. S.M. Mahfuzur Rahman, Vice Chancellor, BUFT for their Encouragement
and valuable suggestions for continual improvement of the report.

We would like to extend thanks to BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT) for
not only for this tremendous Academic support, but also for giving Us so many wonderful
opportunities to do this project.

CERTIFICATION

6
7
EXE

8
 CUTIVE SUMMARY

The industrial training program is the pre-requisite for the graduation of B.Sc. Classroom
discussion alone cannot make a student perfect in handling the real business situation;
therefore, it is an opportunity for the students to gather more information about the
professional work situation through this program. This report has to be built for the
university and organization requirement. The topic of this report is “Overview of Production
Activities in Garments Industries in Bangladesh’. This report is made based on the reputed
multinational company named HA-MEEM GROUP. The main purpose of the report
becomes very clear from the topic of the report. This Group is one of the leading groups
among south Asian Garments Industries. It was a great chance for me to do my internship.
This is a large factory with all the facilities. Here the production process runs from
developing different brand sample through production to finished garments for export. In
this age, Bangladesh is flourished with RMG sector where this division has its immense
contribution. The annual export income of garments sector is driven from Woven garments.
Ready Made Garments is 100% export oriented. RMG exports various garments product to
foreign country. The company makes Gents shirts, pants, chinos, cargo pants and others for
U.S.A, U.K, and European market. Basically, This Report is prepared on “The production
activities in RMG Industries” Where my concentration is in, Increase Production,
Efficiency, Bottle neck, Quality of products, and Practiced in RMG. This report also belongs
the whole activities of production department. An efficient Industrial Engineer should know
all the technical knowledge of all departments like development, develop productivity, work
process development time study, method study, line balancing, capacity study, m/c layout,
motion study, worker train up, skill development, etc. He has to coordinate with all these
activities.

9
 Table of Contents

Contents
Letter of Transmittal...................................................................................................................................ii
Declarations...............................................................................................................................................iii
Board of Examiners...................................................................................................................................iii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS.......................................................................................................................iv
CERTIFICATION.......................................................................................................................................v
EXECUTIVE SUMMERY.......................................................................................................................vii
Table of Contents.....................................................................................................................................viii
List of Figures..........................................................................................................................................xiv
List of Tables............................................................................................................................................xvi
CHAPTER 01: INTRODUCTION..........................................................................................................1
1.1 Introduction:....................................................................................................................................2
1.2 Objective:.........................................................................................................................................3
2.1 Company Name & Overview:.........................................................................................................4
CHAPTER 02: COMPANY PROFILE..................................................................................................4
2.2 Company Profile (Tongi Zone):......................................................................................................6
2.3 Pictorial View of Ha-Meem Group (CCL):.....................................................................................7
2.4 Location on Map:.............................................................................................................................7
2.5 Vision of the company:....................................................................................................................8
2.6 Organogram of CCL (Creative Collections Limited):.....................................................................8
2.6 Exciting customers of CCL:............................................................................................................9
CHAPTER 03: BONDED WAREHOUSE............................................................................................10
3.1 Introduction:..................................................................................................................................11
3.2 Consignment:.................................................................................................................................11
3.3 Warehouse SOP:............................................................................................................................11
3.4 Flow chart of Fabric Store:............................................................................................................12
3.4.1 Pre-Alert for Fabric:................................................................................................................13
3.4.2 Unloading in quarantine area and physical checking:............................................................13
3.4.3 MAT Cutting for test:...............................................................................................................13

10
 3.4.4 Fabric shrinkage test:...........................................................................................................14
3.4.5 Procedure of fabric shrinkage test:..........................................................................................15
3.4.6 Formula of fabric shrinkage:.....................................................................................................16
3.4.7 Shade Checking:.....................................................................................................................16
3.4.6 Twisting checking:..................................................................................................................18
3.5 Fabric inspection:...........................................................................................................................20
3.5.1 Machine used:.........................................................................................................................20
3.5.2 Defective Point Counts System:.............................................................................................20
3.5.3 Reject Fabric Are Following Reasons:...................................................................................21
3.5.4 Fabrics Inspection Method:.....................................................................................................21
3.5.5 Equation of inspection and inspection report:.........................................................................22
3.6 Problem defect:..............................................................................................................................23
3.6.1 Store in Racks for issue to cutting:.........................................................................................24
3.7 Trims:.............................................................................................................................................25
3.8 Accessories:...................................................................................................................................27
3.9 Flow chart for trims/accessories:...................................................................................................29
3.10 Explanation of Trims and Accessories Defects:..........................................................................30
3.11 Rules for Accessories Quality Check:.........................................................................................31
3.12 Trims and Accessories identification board:...............................................................................33
CHAPTER 04: CUTTING SECTION..................................................................................................34
4.1 Introduction:..................................................................................................................................35
4.2 Flowchart of Cutting section:........................................................................................................35
4.2.1 Take fabric from the fabric store:...........................................................................................35
4.3 Relaxation of fabrics:.....................................................................................................................36
4.4 Marker Making:.............................................................................................................................37
4.4.1 Purposes of quality control in marker making:.......................................................................37
4.4.2 Marker inspection:..................................................................................................................38
4.5 Fabric Spreading & Requirements of Spreading Process:.............................................................39
4.5.1 Requirements of Spreading Process:.......................................................................................39
4.5.2 Manual spreading:...................................................................................................................41
4.6 Cutting...........................................................................................................................................42
4.7 Numbering:....................................................................................................................................44
4.8 Panel check:...................................................................................................................................44
4.9 Shorting and Bundling:..................................................................................................................44

11
 4.10 Fusing:.........................................................................................................................................45
4.11 Gap female half sleeve shirt:.......................................................................................................46
CHAPTER 05: SEWING SECTION.....................................................................................................47
5.1 Introduction:..................................................................................................................................48
5.2 Objective:.......................................................................................................................................49
5.3 Function of Sewing floor:..............................................................................................................50
5.4 Different type of Sewing machine & function:........................................................................51
5.4.1 Double needle lockstitch machine:.........................................................................................52
5.4.2 APW Machine:........................................................................................................................53
5.4.3 Flat lock sewing machine:.......................................................................................................53
 5.4.4 Feed off the Arm....................................................................................................................54
5.4.5 Overlock /Safety stitch machines:...........................................................................................55
5.4.6 Button hole machine:..............................................................................................................56
5.4.7 VI.BE MAC's bartack machine:..............................................................................................57
5.4.8 VI.BE MAC J-stitch machine:................................................................................................59
5.4.9 VI.BE MAC pocket setter machine........................................................................................60
CHAPTER 06: INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING.................................................................................64
6.1 Industrial Engineering (IE):...........................................................................................................65
6.1.1 Task:........................................................................................................................................65
6.1.2 Function of I.E:.......................................................................................................................65
6.2 Work of IE Department:................................................................................................................66
6.3 Process Flowchart of IE Department:............................................................................................67
6.4 Performance Measuring Formulas:................................................................................................69
6.5 Bottle neck:....................................................................................................................................70
6.5.1 Solving Sewing Floor Bottlenecks:.........................................................................................71
6.6 Production Study Sheet:................................................................................................................72
CHAPTER 07: GARMENTS WASHING............................................................................................73
7.1 Introduction:..................................................................................................................................74
7.2 Purpose of Garments Washing:.....................................................................................................74
7.3 Effects of Garments Washing:.......................................................................................................74
7.4 process flow diagram of wash:......................................................................................................75
7.5 Garments washing process are two types:.......................................................................................76
7.5.1 DRY PROCESS........................................................................................................................76
7.5.2 Wet process:.............................................................................................................................76

12
7.6 Dry process:.....................................................................................................................................77
7.6.1 PP Spray:.................................................................................................................................77
7.6.2 Hand Scrapping:......................................................................................................................77
7.6.3 Destroy:...................................................................................................................................78
7.6.4 Tagging:..................................................................................................................................79
7.6.5 Grinding:.................................................................................................................................79
7.6.6 Whiskering:.............................................................................................................................80
7.6.7 2-D Crinkle:............................................................................................................................82
7.6.7 3-D Crinkle:............................................................................................................................83
7.6.8 PP sponging or Rubbing:........................................................................................................84
7.6.9 Resin Spray:............................................................................................................................85
7.6.10 Heat Pressing:.......................................................................................................................86
7.7 Wet process:...................................................................................................................................86
7.7.2 Flow Chart of Normal Wash:..................................................................................................87
7.7.3 Washing Process of Normal Wash:........................................................................................87
7.7.4 Enzyme Wash:........................................................................................................................89
7.7.5 Stone Wash:............................................................................................................................92
7.7.6 Stone Enzyme Wash:..............................................................................................................94
7.7.7 Acid Wash:..............................................................................................................................97
7.7.8 Bleach Wash:........................................................................................................................100
7.7.9 Towel Bleach Wash:.............................................................................................................104
7.7.10 Silicon wash:.......................................................................................................................107
7.8 Different types of machines used in Washing and Dyeing plant.................................................110
7.8.1 Hand Scraping Machine:.......................................................................................................110
7.8.2 3-D Crinkle:..........................................................................................................................111
7.8.3 Plastic Staple Machine:.........................................................................................................111
7.8.4 Laser Machine:......................................................................................................................112
7.8.5 Pen Grinding Machine:.........................................................................................................112
7.8.6 Grinding Machine:................................................................................................................113
7.8.7 Open Door/Conveyer Belt Oven:..........................................................................................113
7.8.8 Whisker Pattern:....................................................................................................................114
7.8.9 PP Spray Cabin:....................................................................................................................114
7.9 Wet Process:................................................................................................................................114
7.9.1 Front loading:..........................................................................................................................115

13
 7.9.2 Top loading:..........................................................................................................................115
7.9.3 Hydro Extractor:...................................................................................................................116
7.9.4 Ozone Machine:....................................................................................................................116
7.9.5 Dryer:....................................................................................................................................116
7.9.6 Gas Dryer:.............................................................................................................................117
7.9.7 Steam Dryer:.........................................................................................................................117
7.10 Different kind of wash defects:.......................................................................................................119
CHAPTER 08: FINISHING SECTION..............................................................................................120
8.1 Introduction:................................................................................................................................121
8.2 Importance of Finishing:..............................................................................................................121
8.3 Machines and Equipment Used in Finishing Section:.................................................................121
8.4 Flow chart of finishing Department:............................................................................................122
8.5 “5S” Methodology in finishing section:......................................................................................123
8.6 Cartooning:..................................................................................................................................125
8.7 Types of Carton Packing:............................................................................................................126
CHAPTER 09: MERCHANDISING...................................................................................................127
9.1 Introduction:................................................................................................................................128
9.2 Flowchart of Merchandising:.......................................................................................................129
9.3 All the processes of garments merchandising.............................................................................131
9.4 Ha-meem Group merchandising is consisting of following tasks:..............................................132
9.5 Time and Action:.........................................................................................................................132
9.5.1 Example of small portion of T&A:.......................................................................................134
9.6 Job responsibilities of Merchandising Team:..............................................................................136
9.7 Tech Pack:...................................................................................................................................138
9.8 Sales Contract:.............................................................................................................................138
9.9 Costing Sheet:..............................................................................................................................139
9.10 Purchase Order (PO):.................................................................................................................140
9.11 Key Terms of PO:......................................................................................................................140
9.12 Proforma Invoice (PI):...............................................................................................................140
9.13 Packing List:..............................................................................................................................140
9.14 Delivery Challan:.......................................................................................................................141
CHAPTER 10: HR Managements.......................................................................................................142
10.1 Human resource planning:...........................................................................................................143
10.2 HR Practices of Ha-meem Group:.............................................................................................143

14
 10.3 Recruitment and Selection process in Ha-meem Group:...........................................................143
10.3.1 Source of recruitment:.........................................................................................................144
10.4 Internal source:..........................................................................................................................144
10.4.1 Job-posting programs:..............................................................................................................144
10.4.2 Departing Employees:............................................................................................................145
10.5 External source:.........................................................................................................................145
10.5.1 Walk-ins and Write-ins:......................................................................................................145
10.5.2 Employee referrals:.............................................................................................................145
10.5.3 Advertising:...........................................................................................................................146
10.6 Training and Development program of Ha-meem Group:........................................................146
10.7 Performance Management:..........................................................................................................146
10.8 Purpose of Performance Appraisal:...........................................................................................147
CHAPTER 11: SWOT OF HA-MEEM GROUP...............................................................................148
11.1 Strengths:.....................................................................................................................................149
11.2 Weaknesses:.................................................................................................................................150
11.3 Opportunities:..............................................................................................................................150
11.4 Threats:........................................................................................................................................150
CHAPTER 12: CSR PRACTICE IN HA-MEEM GROUP..............................................................151
12.1 Introduction:................................................................................................................................152
12.2 Safe and Ethical Workplace:.......................................................................................................152
12.3 Environmental Sustainability:.....................................................................................................152
12.4 Community Development:...........................................................................................................152
12.5 Philanthropic Initiatives:..............................................................................................................152
12.6 Ethical Business Practices:..........................................................................................................152
CHAPTER 13: CONCLUSION...........................................................................................................154
13.1 Conclusion:................................................................................................................................155
CHAPTER 14: REFERENCE.............................................................................................................157

15
 List of Figures
Fig-2.1: Front View of Ha-Meem Group (CCL)…………………………………………………………
7
Fig-2.2: Company Location on Google map…………………………………………...........................
7
Fig-2.3: Organogram of Creative Collection Limited………………………………………………….
8
Fig-3.1: Shade shrinkage report…...…………………………………………………………………...
17
Fig-3.2: Fabric Defect Identification…………………………………………………………………... 23
Fig-4.1: Relaxation Time Chart……………………………………………………………………….. 36
Fig-4.2: Marker Making……………………………………………………………..……………….. 37
Fig-4.3: Straight knife cutting…………………………………………………………………………. 43
Fig-4.4: Numbering……………………………………………………………………………………. 44
Fig-4.5: The recommended Fusing for mentioned style –JCPenny…………………………………… 45
Fig-5.1: single needle lockstitch machine…………………………………………………………. 51
Fig-5.2 double needle lockstitch………………………………………………………………………..52
Fig-5.3: APW machine…………………………………………………………………………….……53
Fig-5.4: Flatlock machine……………………………………………………………………….……...53
Fig-5.5: Feed of the arm machine……………………………………………………………………... 54
Fig-5.6: Overlock machine………………………………………………………………………….…..55
Fig-5.7: Button Hole machine…………………………………………………………………………. 56
Fig-5.8: VI.BE MAC’s Bartack machine……………………………………………………………… 57
Fig-5.9: VI.BE MAC’s J-Stitch machine……………………………………………………………….59
Fig-5.10: VI.BE MAC pocket setter machine…………………………………………………………. 60

16
Fig-6.1: Formulas of IE…………………………………………………………………………..……...69
Fig-7.1: PP Spray…………………………………………………………………………………….…77
Fig-7.2: Hand Scraping…………………………………………………………………………….…...78
Fig-7.3: Destroy…………………………………………………………………………………….…..78
Fig-7.4: Tagging…………………………………………………………………………………….. 79
Fig-7.5: Grinding…………………………………………………………………………………….….80
Fig-7.6: Whiskering………………………………………………………………………………….…81
Fig-7.7: Laser Whiskering………………………………………………………………………….….. 82
Fig-7.8: 2-D Crinkle………………………………………………………………………………………82
Fig-7.9: 3-D Crinkle……………………………………………………………………………….…… 83
Fig-7.10: PP Sponging or Rubbing……………………………………………………………………….84
Fig-7.11: Resin Spray……………………………………………………………………………..……..85
Fig-7.12: Garments Washed Sample…………………………………………………………………... 87
Fig-7.13: Enzyme Washed Sample………………………………………………………………….……89
Fig-7.14: Stone Washed Sample………………………………………………………………………….92
Fig-7.15: Acid Washed Sample………………………………………………………………….…….. 98
Fig-7.16: Bleach Washed Sample………………………………………………………………….…... 101
Fig-7.17: Towel Bleach……………………………………………………………………………….…...
104
Fig-7.18: Silicon Washed Sample………………………………………………………………………...108
Fig-7.19: Hand Scraping…………………………………………………………………………..……. 110
Fig-7.20: 3D crinkle……………………………………………………………………………….…… 111
Fig-7.21: Plastic Staple Machine…………………………………………………………………………111
Fig-7.22: Laser Machine…………….……………………………………………………………..…… 112
Fig-7.23: Pen Grinding Machine…………….……………………………………………………..……112
Fig-7.24: Grinding Machine…….………………………………………...…………………………… 113
Fig-7.25: Whisker Pattern……...…………………………………………………………………….… 114
Fig-7.26: Front Loading Machine……………...……………………………………………………… 115
Fig-7.27: Top Loading Machine………………………………………………….……………………. 115
Fig-7.28: Hydro Extractor…………………………………………………………………………..…...116
Fig-7.29: Gas Dryer………………………………………………………….……………………….... 117

17
Fig-7.30: Steam Dryer…………………..…………………………………………………………….....117
Fig-7.31: Bamboo Dryer…………………………………………………………………………………..
118
Fig-8.1: Cartoon Ready for Shipment…………………………………………………………………...125
Fig-9.1: Costing Sheet………………………………………………………………………………….….
139

18
 List of Tables

Table-2.1: Company Profile “HA-MEEM GROUP” (Tongi Zone) 6

…………………………………..
Table-4.1: Marker 39
Inspection………………………………………………………………………...
Table-4.2: Shorting and 45
Bundling……………………………………………………………………
Table-5.1: Operation 63
Bulletin………………………………………………………………………...
Table-6.1: Process Flow chat of IE department…………………………………………………. 67
…...
Table-9.1: Process of Garments Merchandising…………………………………………………. 131
…..
Table-9.2: T& A 134
Calendar……………………………………………………………………………
Table-9.3: Job Responsibilities of Merchandising 136
Team…………………………………………….

xvi
 Chapter: 01

INTRODUCTION

1
1.1 Introduction:

Industrial training or internship is an important part of a B.Sc. in Textile Engineering course. It provides
students with hands-on experience in the textile industry, which is essential for their professional growth
and development.
During the internship, students get the opportunity to work in real-world textile manufacturing
environments, which helps them understand the practical aspects of textile production. This experience
is crucial for students to develop their skills and knowledge, which will prepare them for a successful
career in the textile industry.
Internships also provide students with the opportunity to network with professionals in the textile
industry, which can be helpful when seeking employment after graduation. Additionally, internships can
be a great way for students to explore different areas of the textile industry and gain insight into their
own career interests.
Therefore, industrial training or internship is a mandatory requirement for all textile students to fulfill
their Bachelor Degree, and it plays a critical role in their professional development and success.

So, we have accomplished 8 weeks long industrial training in Ha-Meem Group (Tongi Zone),
Nishat Nagar, Tongi, Gazipur-1711, Bangladesh. Which is 100% export-oriented apparel industry.
It helps us to acquire knowledge about garments production in practical environment. During this
period, we have been able to gather knowledge about Store, Quality Control & Inspection, Cutting,
Sewing, IE, Finishing, Embroidery, Printing Packaging, and Merchandising and other related
section as well as duties and responsibilities of a garment’s factory. We have noted down all the
necessary information part wise most beneficial outcome from the industrial training.

2
1.2 Objective:

 Practical Experience: The primary objective of industrial training is to provide us with practical
experience in a real-world textile manufacturing environment. It allows students to apply their
theoretical knowledge to practical situations, gain hands-on experience with textile machinery,
and understand the technical aspects of textile production.

 Skill Development: Industrial training provides students with the opportunity to develop their
technical, analytical, and problem-solving skills. They learn to work independently and as part of
a team, communicate effectively with colleagues and supervisors, and manage their time and
resources efficiently.

 Exposure to New Technology: Textile industry is constantly evolving, and new technologies are
being introduced. Industrial training allows students to stay up-to-date with the latest trends in
the textile industry and learn how to operate the latest machinery and equipment.

 Professional Network: Industrial training provides an opportunity for students to meet and
network with professionals in the textile industry. This helps them to develop contacts, gain
industry insights and advice, and explore potential job opportunities after graduation.

 Career Development: Industrial training is an important step in students' career development. It

helps them to gain practical experience, develop new skills, and explore different career paths in
the textile industry.

Overall, the objectives of textile industrial training or internship are to enhance students' academic
knowledge, technical skills, and professional development. It provides a platform for students to apply
their theoretical knowledge to practical situations, develop their professional network, and prepare for a
successful career in the textile industry.

3
 CHAPTER: 02

COMPANY PROFILE

4
2.1 Company Name & Overview:

Ha-Meem Group, a Bangladeshi clothing manufacturer, is leading supplier of readymade garments and
denim fabric in the world. We are one of the top clothing companies in Bangladesh. The company
produces some of the most fashionable denim fabrics and garment products and owns one of the most
comprehensive and resourceful manufacturing facilities in Bangladesh.
Ha-Meem Group has earned name and fame both at home and abroad as one of the top clothing
companies in Bangladesh. The continuous growth of this group is moving forward hand on hand with
the industrialization of the home country Bangladesh. Moreover, we as a Bangladeshi clothing
manufacturer have been contributing immensely in the financial growth of the nation.
Ha-Meem Group, one of the top clothing companies in Bangladesh exporting to USA and Europe for a
long time. Because of our successful history with the world leading customers and buyers, we are the
most valued and well reputed Bangladeshi clothing manufacturer.
Company produces 7 million pieces of woven garments per month with the assortment of infant to adult
in men and women. Today Ha-Meem Group employs around 50,000 workers and the company is
equipped with 26 garments factories, a unique Denim mill, Sweater factory, Embroidery and Printing
factory, Carton factory, Poly bag industry, Label factory, Jute mill, Chemical formulation plant, Tea
Gardens, Transport company, News Channel and a national daily newspaper. Its overseas office in Hong
and China gives fastest support in procurement of fabric and accessories. Own C&F office in every
Bangladeshi port gives privilege of quick clearing and forwarding support.

5
2.2 Company Profile (Tongi Zone):

Company Profile

Address Nishat Nagar, Tongi, Gazipur-1711

Hazrat Shahjalal International

Nearest Airport and Travel Distance
Airport. (1.00 hour by road)
Chittagong Sea port. 8.00 hours by
Nearest Sea port and Travel Distance
road
Total Land Area 6,15,650 Square ft.

Total area of factory 6,35,000 Square ft.

Total area of production 5,85,000 Square ft.

Total Ware house (Finished goods) 26,400 Square ft.

Total Ware house (Accessories & Fabric) 40,980 Square ft.

Ready Made Garments (All Kinds of
Woven Products for Men, Women,
Types of Products Kids & All types of Casual Outer
wares, Casual Bottoms & Casual
Tops)
Year of Establishment 2013

Total Manpower Around 20000

State Private Limited Company

Table-2.1: Company Profile “HA-MEEM GROUP” (Tongi Zone)

6
2.3 Pictorial View of Ha-Meem Group (CCL):

Fig-2.1: Front View of Ha-Meem Group (CCL)

2.4 Location on Map:

Fig-2.2: Company Location on Google map

7
2.5 Vision of the company:

They believe in Distinction, Innovation and Determination in their endeavor to provide world
class products through team work, precision and effective management.

2.6 Organogram of CCL (Creative Collections Limited):

Fig-2.3: Organogram of Creative Collections Limited.

8
2.6 Exciting customers of CCL:

9
 CHAPTER: 03

BONDED WAREHOUSE

10
3.1 Introduction:
Bonded Warehousing means the facility provided to export oriented industries for importing
inputs/raw materials and packaging materials without paying any duty or taxes. When goods
are stored in a non-bonded warehouse, an importer must pay taxes on goods received and
ensure they are fully inspected immediately.

3.2 Consignment:
Consignment is the total roll of one chalan, like 100 roll comes in one chalan so this is
one consignment. Color variation could have but consignment is one.

In the time of Inventory consignment number is given to see roll number and color for do
not miss during inspection.

There are two types of materials in this warehouse, those are-

1. Fabric
2. Trims and Accessories

3.3 Warehouse SOP:

 Received Materials should keep in quarantine area.
 Inventory and inspection to be complete prior before Materials move from quarantine.
 Maintain Inventory inspection and record.
 Maintain proper BIN card with identification.
 Trims should be check as per AQL.
 Stored fabric / yarn based on shrinkage and shade wise with easy identification.
 Fabric issue to cutting should be based on Shrinkage / Shade wise.

11
3.4 Flow chart of Fabric Store:

12
3.4.1 Pre-Alert for Fabric:
When fabric is coming there are a term use in warehouse is pre alert for fabric whom will
receive fabric from chalan is always alert for fabric.

3.4.2 Unloading in quarantine area and physical checking:

When fabric is come one buyer nominated person receive the chalan and check it physically
and there is lock number in chalan and the person check the lock number and cut it. And then
roader came and unload materials and take it to quarantine area.

3.4.3 MAT Cutting for test:

1 yds fabric cut from each roll of consignment and create blanket (six blanket are created
from each roll) for shrinkage, shade matching and GSM checking. After create blanket
those are going for wash after wash test are done by inspection department.

 Blanket procedure:
 Step 1: Blanket should be made with 100 % rolls.
 Step 2: Length and width s / b 25 cm and fabric naps s / b one way.
 Step 3: 100 % rolls serial maintain for cut pcs as like spreading with numbering. Step 4 8 " x 8 "
by pattern wise mark and fabric should be cut.
 Step 5: Blanket sewing or over lock point s / b even and one way.
 Step 6: All blanket should be wash as per buyer wash requirement
 Step 7: blanket shade s / b check with approval lab dip and counter in the light box (minimum
two people)
 Step 8: Group wise shade band swatch making
 Step 9: Color continuity control card making.
 Step 10: Shade band summery and report making & submit to related department.

13
3.4.4 Fabric shrinkage test:

We need to know how much a fabric is liable to shrink for a number of reasons. Firstly,
manufacturers need to know that the fabric or garments they are producing are of excellent
quality.
There’s brand reputation to think of. And also, the wasted materials and energy involved in
having to remake things because fabric has shrunk at a late stage in garment production.
Secondly, if a fabric shrinks after it has been cut or sewn, the finished garment will be
misshapen. Seams might end up puckered. And the hang of a garment will be affected.

Lastly, manufacturers need to provide care labels telling consumers how to look after their
garment. Without a fabric shrinkage test, the information on these labels will not be accurate.

14
3.4.5 Procedure of fabric shrinkage test:

step 1: shrinkage should be 100 % for cotton and denim / spandex fabric.
step 2: shrinkage fabric should be length 50 cm and width 50 cm.
step 3: writing style name, order no roll no, yards, on shrinkage fabric.
step 4: four side surrounding mark should be 50 cm by fabric marker.
step 5: out line should be over lock, at 3 side, 1 side s / b open.
step 6: wash should be based on customer requirement.
step 7: after wash length / width wise measurement check.
step 8: formula: after wash - before wash x 100 / before wash=Ans
step 9: make report and send the copy to related department.
step 10: pattern adjust on according to shrinkage group wise.

15
3.4.6 Formula of fabric shrinkage:

(Before wash – After wash) ÷ (Before Wash) x 100 %

Allow percentage of Shrinkage is 3%.
After calculation of shrinkage then shrinkage report is made by computer operator.

3.4.7 Shade Checking:

Fabric shade variance is the variation of shade in one roll of fabric or separate pieces of
fabric that were intended to match.
6 blankets are
making 2 set
wash
1 set before wash
1 set shade
1 set for GSM
1 set for future requirement

3.4.7.1 Shade checking:

The shade achieved is to be checked several times while in process & at finished state to ensure
the customers demand under a recommended light source. Generally, the shade is checked at the
following stage, after washing.

3.4.7.2 Light use for shade check:

1. D65
2. CWF for kontoor buyer
3. UVA-white

16
In washing buyer standard shade are given by merchandiser they wash blanket by amount of
chemical. After wash they mark A B C D by shade variation. After that when blanket is in
shade checking room then they check by various light source and match it. Then shade variation

report is made. Shade shrinkage report are attached.

Fig-3.1: Shade shrinkage report

17
3.4.6 Twisting checking:

Generally, if there is a variation in the tension of the fabric during knitting or weaving, then
after dyeing, some changes in the shape of the fabric or it is dimensional deformation, in which
skewness is seen between the fabric. This problem of cloth is called twisting.

18
3.4.6.1 Twisting formula:

Differ width x 100 ÷ After wash

3% allow for twisting.

3.4.6.2 GSM:

GSM stands for grams per square meter, which refers to the weight of a fabric.

Apparatus required
1. Round GSM cutter and GSM Pad

2. Weighing Balance.
Method:
1. Cut 5 swatches from the different places of the fabric.

2. Weight all test swatches accurately and calculate the average weight of swatches.

3. Multiply the average weight of swatches by 100 to calculate the GSM of the sample
fabric. (Normally, the area of round GSM cutter is 1/100 square meters.)

3.4.6.3 Fabric GSM calculation by using a Formula:

19
3.5 Fabric inspection:
Fabric inspection are done for fabric defects identify it is also known as fabric checking. It’s
done by 4-point system. fabric inspection is a process of examining fabric to identify any
defects or flaws in the material. This process is also commonly referred to as fabric
checking. The 4-point system is a widely used method of fabric inspection that involves
dividing the fabric into four equal parts and assigning a rating to each section based on the
number and severity of defects found. The system is designed to provide a standardized
method for evaluating fabric quality and consistency, and it allows inspectors to quickly
identify and classify defects based on their location and size.

3.5.1 Machine used:

Fabric inspection m/c is used for this process.

M/C speed 15 yds per minute
Fabric distance from worker 1-3 feet

4-point system:
Determining 4 points in 1 yard of fabric is called 4-point system.

3.5.2 Defective Point Counts System:

Defective Length Less 3 Inch = 1 Point

3 to 6 Inch = 2 Point,
6 to 9 Inch = 3 Point,
9 above 36 Inch = 4 Points,
Note: Any Hole, Any Shading, Any Stain Mark= 4 point

01. Calculate amount of fabric to be inspection and fill form

02. Determine the roll for Choose in inspection)

03. Raise The roll on The Machine
04. Cut off piece of about 6 " fabric from the edge and mark to show left & right every 10 to
15 yds / m check shading.
05. Wind the roll slowly and identify defects and mark.

20
 06. Check length of the roll.
07. Periodically check width of the fabric.
08. Check if fabric is biased or be wed.
09. prepare all report of all defects.
10. Maximum 4 points can be counted in 1 yard of fabrics.

3.5.3 Reject Fabric Are Following Reasons:

01. Penalty point is more than 20 per 100 sq yds & 24 / 100mtr.
02. Roll length under 25 yds
03. Joint pats are less than 25yards.
04. If fabric does not match approved color shade.

3.5.4 Fabrics Inspection Method:

 Four Point system is highly recommended for hulk fabric inspection. for bulk
 At least 10% bulk fabric selected from each dyeing lot to be inspected.
 Enlarge inspection sampling plan when unstable fabric quality found
 Check for mainly fabric defects such as Weaving defect
 Soil / Stain
 Damage / Hole
 Fabric Construction.
 Fabric Content / Weight
 Fabric Yardage / Width
 Shading.
 Color shade comparison with the color standard
 End to end / end to middle color shading (Especially on gradual color)
 Side to side / side to middle color shading
 Roll to roll shading.

21
3.5.5 Equation of inspection and inspection report:

(Total defect point x 36 x 100) ÷ (Actual roll length x Actual roll width)

22
3.6 Problem defect:

Fig-3.2: Fabric Defect Identification

3.6.1 Store in Racks

for issue to cutting:

Inventory are made by consignment, shade variation, pattern, roll number, serial number.
There is a location board for search the exact needed roll.

23
Fabric identification board:
 Location
 Buyer
 Style
 PO
 Roll quantity
 YDS quantity
 Consignment
 Item name
 Remarks

24
3.7 Trims:
The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric are called Trims. On the other hand,
materials are directly attached to the fabric to make a garment are called trims. Like: Threads,
buttons, lining, Interlining, zippers, labels, care labels, etc.(Interlining is used as shape
forming/preserving materials.)

 Labels
 Buttons
 Zippers
 Padding
 Interlining
 Down
 Elastic
 Thread
 Twill Tape
 Stopper
 String/Draw Cord
 Piping Cord
 Emblem
 Logo Print
 Swivel Hook
 Eyelet/ Grommet
 Collar Stay
 Cord Bell
 Buckle
 Rivet
 Weaving Belt
 Hook and Eye
 Velcro Tape
 Seam Sealing tape
 Shoulder pad
 Cable (steel ware)
25
 Adjuster
 Recco
 Elastic Threads
 Shoulder Tag

26
3.8 Accessories:
The materials, which are used to make a garment attractive for sale and packing, other than
fabrics and trims, are called Accessories.

 Polybag
 Elastic bag
 Mini Polybag
 Master Carton
 Inner Carton
 Size Clip
 P.P. Band
 Tag Pin
 Brass Pin
 Collar Stand
 Safety Pin
 Gum Tape
 Arrow Sticker
 Scotch Tape
 Barcode
 Defect Indicator
 Tissue Paper
 Backboard
 Neck Board
 Butterfly
 Numbering Stickers
 Hanger
 Size Stickers
 Carton Pad
 Both Side Tape
 Plastic Staple
 Iron Seal
27
 Clip
 Ball chain
 Size Tag
 Carton Sticker
 Safety Sticker
 Plastic Clip

28
3.9 Flow chart for trims/accessories:

Received Inventory at
Unload quarantine area
Accessories (Trims)
from suppliers

Inspection by aql
Ready to issue Racking
for all countable or
10% non-countable

Inspection:
Follow the Buyer standard and check items. For metal item use metal detector m/c, then moisture
check.
3 days maximum time for inspection.

For inspecting trims and accessories following standard procedure will be followed:
 Trims and Accessories Quality Control (QC) will check trims after in housed by using
AQL065 of every lot.
 If this particular lot fails as per AQL, QC will check 50 rims of whole lot.
 If QC finds more defective Trims from out of 50 % check, QC will check 100 % Trims
(whole lot).
 After completing the check, QC will claim supplier via merchandising.
 A claim must be done within 7 days after in - jpisom factory.

29
3.10 Explanation of Trims and Accessories Defects:

1. Print Mistake: Any problem showing for incorrect printing, Example or bleeding.
2. Color Problem: Used different color / shade not match with approved trims color.
3. Code Mistake: Barcode or any types of code mistake
4. Fitness Problem: Not found as per ordered length and width.
5. Print Spot: Any spot only for printing.
6. Measurement Problem: Any types of measurement do not match with an approved swatch.
7. Size Mistake: When everything okay but mentioned size not correct.
8. Gum nil: If there needed gum but not found in the inspection.
9. Running Color: Different types of color in trims when one color is approved.
10. RO Mistake: When everything is okay but mentioned PO number not correct.
11. Style Mistake: When everything is okay but mentioned style not correct.
12. Letter Mistake: Used capital letter instead of small or small letter instead of ca
13. Spot: Any type of spot is to be considered as a defect.
14. Broken: Trims and accessories broken is a critical defect.

30
3.11 Rules for Accessories Quality Check:

1. Invoice should be received.

2. According to the Order Quantity, lot 0.65 AQL A must be separated for checking the accessories
quantity.
3. Quality Check should be done along with Quality Approval of Accessories Trims Card.
4. Quality Check should be confirmed at AQL.65.
5. If the Quality Check Fails in any Lot, then the accessories should be checked to ensure 100%
Quality.
6. If any lot consignment is below 90 Qty then 100% check should be done.
7. Defective accessories should be kept in separate box with register.
8. If any Lot or Consignment Quality Fails, the authorities must be informed immediately.
9. Samples of ok and defective accessories should be attached to the Quality Check Report.
10. It should be ensured that defective accessories are not supplied to the sewing floor under any
circumstances.

31
32
 Racking: Inventory are made by consignment. Posting in register by
physically got items. Metal in one rack, Paper in one rack, Code wise

3.12 Trims and Accessories identification board:

 Location
 Quantity
 Buyer
 Style
 PO
 UOM
 Consignment
 Item name
 Remarks

A bonded warehouse can be an excellent solution for storing textile trims and accessories.
These specialized warehouses are designed to provide secure, climate-controlled storage for a
wide range of goods, including textiles and related materials. By using a bonded warehouse,
textile manufacturers and suppliers can reduce their overhead costs and streamline their
supply chain management. Bonded warehouses also offer a range of additional benefits, such
as streamlined customs clearance and access to a range of value-added services, including
repackaging, labeling, and sorting. In the case of textile trims and accessories, bonded
warehouses can provide a secure and well-organized storage solution that protects these
important materials from damage, loss, or theft. With proper inventory management and
tracking, manufacturers and suppliers can ensure that they always have access to the
materials they need to produce high-quality textile products. Overall, the use of a bonded
warehouse for textile trims and accessories can help textile businesses to manage their
inventory more effectively, reduce their costs, and enhance their overall supply chain
efficiency. As such, it is an important consideration for any business involved in the textile
industry.

33
 Chapter: 04

CUTTING SECTION

34
4.1 Introduction:

The cutting department is responsible for cutting fabrics for the garment orders and feeding
the sewing department with cuttings. The cutting department's capacity is planned based on
the daily feeding requirement of the sewing lines.

4.2 Flowchart of Cutting section:

Fabric relaxation Panel Check Bundling

Marker making Numbering Fusing

Laying/Spreading Cutting Input

4.2.1 Take fabric from the fabric store:

The cutting department gets a cut order plan from the production manager. According to the
cut plan, the cutting in-charge generates a fabric requirement sheet or requisition slip to the
fabric store to issue fabrics. 
The fabric receiving process from the fabric store may be done on the same day of the
cutting or one day before the cutting schedule. 

35
4.3 Relaxation of fabrics:

Fabrics relaxation means relaxing fabrics from its roll-type tie. Relaxation is very important
to get fabric's own shape, garments measurements depend on proper fabrics behavior.
Relaxation is must necessary for stretch fabrics. The objective of fabric relaxation is to keep
fabric's dimensional stability after cutting.

Fig-4.1: Relaxation Time Chart

36
4.4 Marker Making:

Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a
style, fabric and distribution of sizes.

Fig-4.2: Marker Making

4.4.1 Purposes of quality control in marker making:

The objectives of quality control in marker making can be summarized as:

1. To ensure the markers are made to a size ratio that gives the required quality and
quantity per order by reducing the wastage of fabrics.
2. To ensure no garment part is missed in the marker and the marker is of comparable
length and width of the fabric being laid.
3. To check notch or drill mark
4. Fabric width must be higher than marker width
5. Fabric length must be higher than marker length
6. Matching of green line
7. Check pattern size and dimension
8. Matching of check and stripe taking into consideration

37
 9. Considering garments production plan
10. Cutting table length consideration
11. Pattern direction consideration

4.4.2 Marker inspection:

SL Check points Allowance

1 Ensure the correct patterns have been used. No allowance

2 Ensure the size ratio is correct No allowance

3 Ensure the correct sizes have been drawn onto the marker No allowance
as per the size ratio

4 Ensure all the garment parts have been drawn onto the No allowance
marker

5 Ensure the patterns are facing the correct direction in case No allowance
of marker making modes.

6 Ensure the patterns have been placed onto the marker in Stripes and Checks 80% & Solid
such a manner as to achieve the highest fabric utilization. color 95%

7 Ensure the marker is of the correct widths, comparable to Zero to half inch
the fabric so that the fabric is not wasted. If the marker is
too small or too wide then incomplete garment parts are
cut.

8 Ensure the marker is of correct length Zero to one inch

9 Ensure splicing marks are correctly drawn on the marker. No allowance

10 Ensure all notches and drill holes have been drawn on the No allowance

38
 marker.

11 Ensure no unauthorized alterations have been made to the No allowance

marker.

Table-4.1: Marker inspection

4.5 Fabric Spreading & Requirements of Spreading Process:

Fabric spreading:

Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables and laying
them in superimposed plies of specified length. The number of lays depends upon the
number of garments desired and the fabric thickness.
Objectives of spreading process:
 -Understanding the process of fabric spreading
 -Factors affecting spreading
 -Face and nap of the fabric
Number of plies depends on:
1. Capacity of the cutting machine.
2. Volume of production.
3. Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery).
4. Thickness of fabric.

4.5.1 Requirements of Spreading Process:

 Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric
must be at least equal to marker length and width.

39
 Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming fabrics will
be tagged and will be avoided.

 Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces up, all
faces down, face to face etc.

 Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.

 Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used under
the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife.

 Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defect in
garments due to variation in dimension.

40
Automatic spreading machine (Fk group- 590 E-180SX)

Automatic spreading machine with unique design cradle feed, with manual operation through
“twist and go”
handle, and automatic operation with interactive digital control, for straight and reverse rolls.
Spreading
planning with steps. It’s provided with “tension free” spreading control for all Woven fabric.
• Max weight 200kg.

• Spreading speed with short acceleration and deceleration digitally adjustable

• Automatic stop of end fabric.

• Lay thickness measured with infra-red technology.

4.5.2 Manual spreading:

The manual spreading process is suitable for small-scale production. Manual spreading may
be used for all kind of fabrics, including those with complex structures and intricate patterns.
In large-scale production, manual cutting is often used for working with intricately patterned
and high-cut pile fabrics. When compared to automated spreading, the cost of technical
equipment in manual spreading is low, but the productivity is poor. The fabric spreading
process is carried out by one/two workers at each side of the spreading table who move the
fabric ply to the beginning of a spread. The spreading process is repeated until the desired
number of fabric plies are laid down

41
4.6 Cutting

Types of cutting:

 Auto cut (Lectra Vector Denim ix6)

Lectra is one of the very well-known brands in the CAD system and cutting room solutions
including automatic cutting machines. Vector is the new generation automatic cutting
machine from Lectra.

Function of VECTOR DENIM IX:

High cutting quality and performance

 Optimized cutting path and tangent pieces cutting

 Built-in blade sensors with automatic calibration
 High-definition camera and Mosaic software for perfect pattern matching

Increased material savings

 Powerful marker-making using Diamino with digital transfer to the cutting room
 Precise edge alignment with Brio spreader
 No buffer between parts

Reduced running costs

 Restart after power cut

 Automatic energy conservation
 Permanent bristle block cleaner

High productivity

 Pre-programmed cutting parameters

 Integrated anti-error devices, such as automatic spread height control and blade
breakage detection
 Built-in cutting head camera for precise location of starting point

42
  120 built-in sensors for reporting, analysis and predictive maintenance
 Warning message for preventive maintenance
 Remote support

Tension-free, automated material spreading 

 Eliminate end loss and optimize material utilization

 Easy material loading and unloading. It spreads woven
 Optional end-catcher device accommodates face-up one-way or face-to-face (zigzag)
spreading

 Manual cut:

The main role of a cutting department is to cut garment components from fabric rolls or
fabric than as per style specifications and send cut components to sewing department in
bundles. A cutting department of a garment manufacturing unit includes following sub-
processes.

Fig-4.3: Straight knife cutting

machine

Cutting inspection:
To maintain the cutting quality, standard cutting components are checked randomly by
quality checkers. If defective components are found, they replace those defective parts.

43
4.7 Numbering:

Fig-4.4: Numbering

In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker
number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.

4.8 Panel check:

Generally, cut panel inspection includes recutting, color shading checking, replacing rejected
panels with good and acceptable panels, stain removing etc. After cut board numbering
cutting individual will give all slice board to QC. At that point QC controller will check each
cut board precisely. In view of layer report or past deformity rate, manager can choose to
issue floor by irregular examination or 100% physical assessment to discover imperfection
thing.

4.9 Shorting and Bundling:

Layers are sorted size-wise and color-wise. Each ply is numbered using stickers. Bundles are
kept on inventory tables, before these are sent to undergo the next process Each ply is
numbered using stickers. Bundles are kept on inventory tables, before these are sent to
undergo the next process.

44
4.10 Fusing:

Fusing process is one kinds of alternative method of fabric joining which is vastly used to
attach the interlining. At present, apparel manufacturing cannot be imagined without fusing
process.

Fig-4.5: The recommended Fusing for mentioned style -JCPenny

(324484,342810,342811,340583,340655,342952)

Operations Unit Fusing condition

Glue line temp. ℃ 125-132
Time sec 12-18
Pressure Kg/cm-2 2.5-4

Table-4.2: Shorting and Bundling

45
4.11 Gap female half sleeve shirt:

Layer numbers =100

We get 30 garments from 1 layer
So, 100X30 = 3000 pcs garments

GAP half sleeve shirt include 9 parts

3000 pcs garments = 9*3000=27000
100 layer spreading time =45 min
Laying to auto cutting = 5 min
Full auto cut time =62 min

Reissued size for collar in/collar top, and band in/top = 25 min
Reissued for body = 9 min
Total 27000 cut pcs of 1/2 sleeve shirt numbering time = 230 min with allowance
collar in/top, band in/top, Nonwoven interlining =6000 pcs

6000 pcs fusing time =250 min with allowance

Bundling time for 6000 Front pcs consume = 360 min

Sleeve = 360 min
Back part = 180 min
Total bundling 3 hours 180 min

total time = 957 min or 16 hours

[Time can be variable due to adding manpower and by reducing fatigue

allowance]

46
 Chapter 05

SEWING SECTION

47
5.1 Introduction:

A garments sewing floor is a section of a garment manufacturing facility where the

sewing and assembly of garments take place. It is a crucial part of the manufacturing
process as it involves transforming fabric into finished products that are ready for
sale. The sewing floor is typically organized into workstations or production lines,
each with a specific task or set of tasks, such as cutting, sewing, pressing, and quality
control.
The sewing floor is where the bulk of the garment manufacturing process occurs. It is
where individual garment pieces are sewn together to create the finished product. This
process requires skilled workers, efficient equipment, and a well-organized workflow.
The sewing floor is also where quality control checks are conducted to ensure that
each garment meets the required standards of quality and accuracy.

A sewing machine is a machine which is used to sew fabric and materials together with
thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first industrial revolution to decrease
the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. The sewing
machine is the most important element in the garments industry. It minimizes laborious
task. By using sewing machine, we can get more standard quality garments within a
short time. There are different parts of a sewing machine, where one part is related to
other parts.

In order to operate efficiently, a sewing floor requires careful planning and

management. Factors such as machine layout, production scheduling, staffing, and
material flow all play a critical role in ensuring that the sewing floor is able to operate
at peak efficiency. Additionally, the sewing floor must adhere to strict safety and
compliance standards to protect workers and ensure that the finished products meet all
relevant regulatory requirements.
Overall, the sewing floor is an essential part of the garment manufacturing process,
and plays a crucial role in the production of high-quality, well-crafted garments that
meet the needs and expectations of customers.

48
5.2 Objective:

The objective of a study on garments sewing machine can vary depending on the specific
focus of the study. However, some common objectives of such a study may include:
 Evaluating the performance of sewing machines: This objective involves assessing the
performance of different types of sewing machines in terms of speed, accuracy,
durability, and other key performance metrics.
 Identifying the factors that affect sewing machine performance: This objective
involves identifying the factors that can impact the performance of sewing machines,
including operator skill, maintenance, and the type of fabric being sewn.
 Assessing the impact of sewing machine technology on the garment industry: This
objective involves evaluating the impact of advancements in sewing machine
technology on the garment industry, including increased automation and the use of
computer-controlled machines.
 Improving sewing machine operations: This objective involves identifying areas for
improvement in sewing machine operations, such as enhancing operator training,
improving maintenance practices, or upgrading equipment to improve productivity
and quality.
 Ensuring compliance with safety and regulatory standards: This objective involves
assessing sewing machine operations to ensure compliance with safety and regulatory
standards, such as the use of protective equipment and compliance with occupational
health and safety regulations.
 Understanding the types of sewing machines used in the garment industry: This
objective involves identifying the different types of sewing machines used in the
garment industry and understanding their specific features, functions, and
applications.
 
• Overall, the objective of a study on garments sewing machine is to gain a deeper
understanding of the equipment used in the garment industry and identify
opportunities for

49
5.3 Function of Sewing floor:

The sewing floor in a garment manufacturing facility is a critical department

responsible for assembling the garment pieces into finished products. The main
functions of the sewing floor include:
1. Garment Assembly: The sewing floor is responsible for assembling the various
garment pieces into finished products. The operators use sewing machines and
other tools to join the fabric pieces together to create the final garment.
2. Quality Control: The sewing floor is responsible for ensuring that the finished
garments meet the required quality standards. The operators are trained to identify
defects or inconsistencies and correct them as they work.
3. Efficiency and Productivity: The sewing floor is responsible for ensuring that the
manufacturing process is as efficient and productive as possible. The IE
Department plays a critical role in optimizing the process flow and reducing waste
to ensure the production process runs smoothly.
4. Worker Safety: The sewing floor must also be designed with worker safety in
mind. The workstations should be ergonomically designed to reduce the risk of
injuries and the operators should be trained to work safely with the equipment.
5. Cost Management: The sewing floor is responsible for managing the production
costs associated with assembling the garment pieces. This includes managing labor
costs, material costs, and other expenses associated with the sewing process.

Overall, the sewing floor plays a crucial role in the garment manufacturing process. The
quality, efficiency, and productivity of the sewing floor directly impact the quality

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50
5.4 Different type of Sewing machine & function:

Single needle lockstitch is a type of industrial sewing machine that is commonly used in
the garment industry for sewing fabrics such as cotton, silk, and synthetic materials.
Here are the typical specifications of a single needle lockstitch machine:

Fig-5.1: single needle lockstitch machine

1. Stitch type: Lockstitch

2. Brand Name: JUKI
3. Origin: JAPAN
4. Needle type: Standard point, size 9-18 (depending on the thickness of the fabric)
5. Stitch length: Up to 5mm (adjustable)
6. Sewing speed: Up to 5,500 stitches per minute (SPM)
7. Presser foot lift: Up to 5mm (adjustable)
8. Thread tension control: Manual or automatic (depending on the model)
9. Feed dog type: Drop feed or needle feed (depending on the model)
10. Bobbin type: Standard or large capacity
11. Lubrication system: Automatic or manual (depending on the model)
12. Power requirements: 110V or 220V AC, 50/60Hz, single phase

Some single needle lockstitch machines come with additional features, such as built-in
LED lights, automatic thread trimming, automatic backstitch, and programmable
settings. The specifications of a single needle lockstitch machine may vary depending
on the manufacturer and model.

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5.4.1 Double needle lockstitch machine:

Double needle lockstitch machines, also known as twin needle machines, are a type of
industrial sewing machine commonly used in the garment industry for sewing a variety
of fabrics such as knits, woven, and synthetic materials. Here are the typical
specifications of a double needle lockstitch machine

Fig-5.2: double needle lockstitch

 Stitch type: lockstitch

 Brand: JUKI
 Model no: LH-3568A-A7
 Origin: JAPAN
 Needle type: Standard point, size 9-18 (depending on the thickness of the fabric)
 Needle spacing: 2mm-6mm (adjustable)
 Stitch length: Up to 5mm (adjustable)
 Sewing speed: Up to 4,000 stitches per minute (SPM)
 Presser foot lift: Up to 6mm (adjustable)
 Thread tension control: Manual or automatic (depending on the model)
 Feed dog type: Drop feed or needle feed (depending on the model)
 Bobbin type: Standard or large capacity
 Lubrication system: Automatic or manual (depending on the model)
 Power requirements: 110V or 220V AC, 50/60Hz, single phase

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5.4.2 APW Machine:

An APW machine is a specialized industrial sewing machine used to create welt pockets. A
welt pocket is a type of pocket that has a narrow welt (a strip of fabric) sewn on top of it,
creating a finished edge. The APW machine is designed to create this type of pocket
quickly and accurately, making it a popular choice in the
garment industry.

Fig-5.3: APW machine

5.4.3 Flat lock sewing machine:

A flatlock sewing machine has a unique mechanism that allows it to create a seam that lays
flat, without any bulk. The machine works by using multiple needles and loopers to interlock
the fabric edges and create a flat, strong seam.

Fig-5.4: Flatlock machine

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• Brand Name: JUKI
• Origin: Japan
• Model no: MFD 47605U
• Function: Sewing all types of knitted cloth.
• SPM: 2500-6000
• No of needle: 3
• No of thread: 6
• Application: Suitable for sewing medium and thick materials in shoe and clothing
industry.

 5.4.4 Feed off the Arm

 Machine Name: Feed off the Arm

Fig-5.5: Feed of the Arm
 Brand Name: JUKI
 Origin: Japan
 Model no: MS-1190M
 Cone Holder: supports the cone,
 Cone Stand: helps to support the cone and holder,
 Tensioner: to control proper tension on sewing thread,

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Needle carries needle thread and helps in penetration and helps in sewing,
Motor rpm controls the speed of the machine. The rpm is controlled by the tightening or losing
the belt over machine and motor pulley.
• Spm: 6000
• No of needle: 2/3
• No of thread: 4/6
Application: For making garments of jeans fabric, used in long seam of trousers, frequently used
for joining lace, used for joining braid and elastic in the garments.

5.4.5 Overlock /Safety stitch machines:

Fig-5.6: Overlock machine

• Brand: JUKI
• Origin: JAPAN
• Model no: ZOJE ZJ-B9500-13-PD3-02 SET
• Function: 2-needle / 4-thread overlock (safety stitch) machine (stitch type 514) for light
and medium materials. Serial equipped with automatic functions: thread trimmer with
suction for fabric leftovers, pneumatic foot lifter, needle positioning. Equipped with
energy-saving LED lamp for lighting of working field.
Overlock equipped with two sensors responsible for raising the presser foot at the

55
 beginning of sewing and for automatic thread cutting. This significantly speeds up the
work with the machine.
• Spm: 6500
• No of needle: 1/2/3
• No of thread: 2/3 to 6
• Application: Used in Woven, knit; all types of garments.

5.4.6 Button hole machine:

Fig-5.7: Button hole machine

• Brand Name: JUKI

• Origin: Japan
• Model no: LBH-1790
• Spm: 3600-4200
• No of needle: 5
• No of thread: 11

Function: The operator sets the machine to the desired buttonhole size and type (such as keyhole

56
or rounded). The fabric is placed under the presser foot and the machine is activated. The
machine sews a series of stitches that create the buttonhole, including a bartack (a tight zigzag
stitch that secures the buttonhole) at the beginning and end. The operator then cuts the fabric
between the bartacks, creating the opening for the button. Based on the principle of lock stitch or
chain stitch. Chain stitched -good appearance and less durability. It provides purl effect and is
preferred for jackets, light-weight materials etc.

Application: Buttonholes are the essential finishing touch on blouses, jackets and any other
project that utilizes buttons for closure, they are normally stitched when the garment is finished.

5.4.7 VI.BE MAC's bartack machine:

VI.BE MAC's bartack machines are designed to create strong and precise bartacks for a range of
applications, such as garment manufacturing, leatherworking, and upholstery. Some of the key
features of VI.BE MAC's bartack machines include:

Fig-5.8: VI.BE MAC's bartack machine

• High-speed operation for increased productivity

• Programmable settings for customized bartack patterns
• Automatic thread trimming for faster operation
• Adjustable presser foot pressure for improved fabric control
• Touchscreen controls for easy operation

57
 • LED lighting for improved visibility
• Servo motors for improved energy efficiency

VI.BE MAC's bartack machines are also designed to be durable and reliable, with a solid
construction that can withstand heavy use. The machines can create a range of bartack patterns,
including rectangular and keyhole bartacks, and they can be customized to meet the specific
needs of the user.

5.4.8 VI.BE MAC J-stitch machine:

VI.BE MAC's J-stitch machine is a type of industrial sewing machine that is designed to create J-
stitch patterns. J-stitch is a decorative stitch that is often used in garment manufacturing and
other sewing applications, and it features a unique zigzag pattern that resembles the letter "J". J-

58
Fig-5.9: VI.BE MAC's J-stitch machine
stitch can be used for a variety of applications, such as attaching pockets, reinforcing seams, and
adding decorative accents.

VI.BE MAC's J-stitch machine features a number of advanced features that make it easy to
create precise and consistent J-stitch patterns. Some of the key features of VI.BE MAC's J-stitch
machine include:
• High-speed operation for increased productivity
• Programmable settings for customized stitching patterns
• Automatic thread trimming for faster operation
• Adjustable presser foot pressure for improved fabric control
• Touchscreen controls for easy operation
• LED lighting for improved visibility
• Servo motors for improved energy efficiency
VI.BE MAC's J-stitch machine is also designed to be durable and reliable, with a solid
construction that can withstand heavy use. The machine can create a range of J-stitch patterns,
including different stitch lengths and densities, and it can be customized to meet the specific
needs of the user.
Overall, VI.BE MAC's J-stitch machine is a popular choice for industrial sewing applications
that require precise and consistent J-stitch patterns. The machine is designed to be easy to use,
with advanced features that increase productivity and efficiency

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5.4.9 VI.BE MAC pocket setter machine:

Fig-5.10: VI.BE MAC pocket setter machine

VI.BE MAC is a brand of industrial sewing machines and one of their products is the
pocket setter machine. The VI.BE MAC pocket setter sewing machine is designed
specifically for setting pockets on garments in a fast and efficient manner.

The machine is equipped with features such as automatic fabric feed, adjustable stitch
length and width, and a high-speed sewing capability to increase productivity. It has a
compact and ergonomic design for ease of use and maneuverability, making it ideal for use
in small and medium-sized production facilities.

The specifications of the VI.BE MAC pocket setter sewing machine may vary depending
on the specific model, but here are some typical specifications:

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 • Machine type: Industrial pocket setter sewing machine
• Maximum sewing speed: 3,200 stitches per minute
• Needle type: DPx5
• Needle size: 11-16
• Stitch length: 0.5-5 mm
• Presser foot lift height: 9 mm
• Thread tension: Automatic
• Feed type: Automatic
• Lubrication: Automatic
• Power supply: Single-phase, 110V or 220V (depending on model)
• Machine weight: Approximately 45-50 kg
• Machine dimensions: Varies depending on model, but typically around 600mm x
400mm x 600mm

Note that these specifications are provided as a general guideline and may differ based on
the specific model of VI.BE MAC pocket setter sewing machine. It's always recommended
to refer to the manufacturer's specifications for accurate and up-to-date information.

Revise by 12-10-2022
Prepared date 11-09-2022
Buyer: JC PENNY Order qty 24209
Style:141321
OPERATION Prepared by
Article: pull on cargo Check by
Revise by 12-10-2022
Prepared date 11-09-2022
Order qty 24209

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OPN NO. section operation name M/C S.M.V TGT/HR Op Efficiency op TGT/H TGT/DAY

1 front pkt front facing joint SNLS 0.62 97 85% 83 1240

2 front pocket bag O/L with turn 0L3T 0.45 133 85% 133 1132
3 front pocket bag top stitch SNLS 0.41 146 85% 124 1239
4 front part front mock fly O/L OL3T 0.31 192 85% 163 1059
5 Mock fly inside stitch SNLS 0.24 245 85% 208 1041
6 J stitch by pattern DNLS 0.23 269.1 85% 219 1096
7 front rise T/S SNLS 0.2 304.6 85% 261 1305
8 front part fuse press IRON 0.23 340.1 85% 220 1100
9 front pocket joint SNLS 0.39 375.6 85% 130 1302
10 front pocket mouth turn & join SNLS 0.45 411.1 85% 114 1141
11 front pocket side and waist tack SNLS 0.45 446.6 85% 114 1141
12 size and care label SNLS 0.39 482.1 85% 132 1305
13 Back part welt pkting & punch mark SNLS 0.4 517.6 85% 125 1320
14 welt attach to the back APW 0.4 553.1 85% 127 1261
15 back welt turn and back IRON 0.46 588.6 85% 110 1272
16 welt indise edge stitch SNLS 0.55 624.1 85% 134 1100
17 welt pocket bottom outline stitch SNLS 0.68 659.6 85% 117 1337
18 welt n pocket facing close & join SNLS 0.57 695.1 85% 97 1049
19 welt bag make with turn OL3T 0.7 730.6 85% 79 1072
20 welt pocket top outline stith SNLS 0.28 766.1 85% 105 1070
21 welt pocket bag 1/4 T/S SNLS 0.38 801.6 85% 109 1055
22 welt pkt stay stitch and label join SNLS 0.27 837.1 85% 136 1094
23 back rise join FOA 0.25 872.6 85% 102 1359
24 back rise top stitch SNLS 0.56 908.1 85% 118 1027
25 bottom hem SNLS 0.55 943.6 85% 102 1114
26 cargo pkt back flap make MNL 0.56 979.1 85% 102 1068
27 back flap turn & finish mark MNL 0.5 1014.6 85% 68 1015
28 cargo flap top stitch SNLS 0.43 1050.1 85% 110 1177
29 back flap top stitch SNLS 0.5 1085.6 85% 165 1022
30 cargo pkt plate make MNL 0.53 1121.1 85% 206 1917
31 cargo pkt plate tack SNLS 0.44 1156.6 85% 176 1171
32 cargo pkt around overlock OL3T 0.54 1192.1 85% 110 1413
33 cargo pkt rolling SNLS 0.36 1227.6 85% 264 1058
34 cargo pkt press IRON 0.48 1263.1 85% 211 1022
35 cargo pkt below surge OL3T 0.5 1298.6 85% 132 1014
36 cargo pkt below joint SNLS 0.75 1334.1 85% 105 1100
37 cargo pkt reinforcement press IRON 0.46 1369.6 85% 132 1650
38 waist band elastic press,mark & cut HW 0.48 1405.1 85% 106 1028
39 elastic ring make SNLS 0.5 1440.6 85% 60 1700
40 top waist band mark HW 0.19 1476.1 85% 59 1100
41 interlaching attach & front facing press IRON 0.24 1511.6 85% 110 1320
42 Button hole BH 0.39 1547.1 85% 131 1055
43 waist band ring make SNLS 0.48 1582.6 85% 148 1114
44 Assembling front & back part match with WB HW 0.85 1618.1 85% 153 1310
45 side seam joint OL5T 0.86 1653.6 85% 92 1481
46 side seam top stitich FOA 0.56 1689.1 85% 82 1553
47 cargo pkt & reinforcement psn mark HW 0.39 1724.6 85% 83 1373
48 reinforchment join OL5T 0.34 1760.1 85% 147 1038
49 cargo pkt join with match SNLS 0.33 1795.6 85% 124 1249
50 cargo pkt tack SNLS 0.56 1831.1 85% 93 1022
51 cargo flap joint with match SNLS 0.65 1866.6 85% 152 1134
52 wais band join mark HW 0.35 1902.1 85% 93 1173
53 waist band join SNLS 0.42 1937.6 85% 152 1410
54 elastic insert and fold tack SNLS 0.55 1973.1 85% 44 1104
55 wasit band top stitch KANSAI 0.35 2008.6 85% 110 1100
56 waist band safety stitch SNLS 0.35 2044.1 85% 150 1211
57 inseam join with turn OL5T 0.41 2079.6 85% 121 1129
58 main brand label joint SNLS 1.16 2115.1 85% 152 1029
59 front pkt,fly bk pkt & cargo pkt BT BT 0.46 2150.6 85% 44 1610
60 eyelet hole EH 0.49 2186.1 85% 110 1100

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Total S.M.V 29.45
No of M/C & operator 48.00
TTL manpower 61.50 Learning
Hourly TGT at 100% effi. 135 M/C type No of
Expected efficiency 75% 1 st day 7% 71
worker
Line TGT/hr. 102 2 nd day 20% 203
Work hour 10 3 rd day 50% 508 SNLS 32.5
Line TGT/day 1015 4 th day 75% 762 SNEC 2.0
Avg production/hrs. at 65% effi. 88 5 th day 100% 1015
DNLS 0.5
OL3T 5.0
OL5T 2.6
FOA 1.5
KS 1.5
SNCS 1.5
DNCS 00
APW 1.0
DNA 0
TTL M/C 48
HW 5

Table-5.1: Operation Bulletin

Learning

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 Chapter 06

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING

64
6.1 Industrial Engineering (IE):
I.E: In garment industry, I.E is the branch Department that is related with the optimization
of the complex system or process. It is a department that has a function, responsibility to
measure, analyze and solve problems given in terms of efficiency, productivity, health,
work, discipline in order to spur growth and health corporate.

6.1.1 Task:
We have visited a number of lines for collecting some data about the operator. Such as-
• Operator’s running operation.
• Machine his/her ID No & Name.
• Finding out his/her running working line.
• It he/she is absent from the line. then the reason behind it.

6.1.2 Function of I.E:

• Safety
• Line Balancing
• Quality-Operation Control

• Training

• In case of operator output-maintains high output with lowest possible time.

• Wastage control
• Cost analysis

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6.2 Work of IE Department:

The Garments IE (Industrial Engineering) department is a crucial department in the apparel

manufacturing industry. The IE department is responsible for optimizing the manufacturing processes
and improving the efficiency and productivity of the production lines.
The primary responsibilities of the Garments IE department include:

1. Time study: The IE department conducts time studies to determine the standard time required to
complete a specific task. This helps in setting up production targets, measuring operator
performance, and identifying bottlenecks in the production line.

2. Method study: The IE department analyzes the manufacturing processes to identify opportunities
for improvement. This may involve reorganizing the production line, modifying the work
methods, or introducing new equipment to improve efficiency.

3. Workstation design: The IE department designs and sets up workstations for operators to work in
a safe and comfortable environment, which can help to reduce operator fatigue and injuries.

4. Production planning: The IE department plays a critical role in production planning. They create
production schedules, determine the required workforce, and allocate production resources such
as machinery, raw materials, and labor to meet the production targets.

5. Quality control: The IE department also plays a vital role in ensuring the quality of the final
product. They design and implement quality control procedures, train operators on quality
standards, and conduct quality inspections to ensure the product meets the required quality
standards.

Overall, the Garments IE department plays a crucial role in ensuring the smooth and efficient operation
of the manufacturing process in the apparel industry.

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6.3 Process Flowchart of IE Department:

SL
Process Procedure
No.
Negotiation It is the very first work of an industrial engineer. Here, he

1 with should vastly discuss with garments merchandiser about the

garments in-coming garments product.
merchandi
ser
Confirmed garments product is clearly analyzed here by

2 Garments industrial engineer. It helps to complete rest of the

analysis processes very easily.

Here, P.P meeting should be organized if all the required

Make P.P fabrics, trimmings and accessories are in housed and take all

meeting the pre-cautions for the up-coming garments

3
production.
Production target should set here according to factory
4 Production capacity. It helps to respect the shipment date.
target

Set Machine layout is set here according to total processes

5 machi needed to complete a garment item.
ne
layout
In this process, actual line setting should be done to utilize the
garment workers properly. If it takes more time in line

Line setting setting then garments production will be decreased.

6

To minimize the number of work stations, cycle time, line

7 Line balancing balancing is done here. It’s a very important process to
achieve desired production target.

67
 Continuo Production meeting should be done here at regular
us interval. If any problem will arise during garments
producti production, should take necessary actions to solve that.
8
on
meeting

Collecting Production data should be collected here for preparing

9 production production report.
data
Preparing Here, total garments production report has prepared to

production analysis about the whole production.

10
report
Production Garments production report is analyzed here from
report
11 different points of view.
analysis

Report Finally garments production report has to submit into the

submits to factory manager.

12 factory
manager

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 Table-6.1: Process Flow Chart of IE Department

6.4 Performance Measuring Formulas:

69
6.5 Bottle neck:

In the sewing section of a garment manufacturing process, a bottleneck can occur when the production
process slows down due to a particular task taking longer to complete than the others. This bottleneck
can have a negative impact on the overall efficiency of the manufacturing process, resulting in longer
lead times and reduced productivity.

One of the most effective solutions to resolve the bottleneck in the sewing section is to identify the
cause of the problem. There are several factors that can cause a bottleneck in the sewing section,
including inefficient workstations, poor production planning, and inadequate worker training.

Once the cause of the bottleneck is identified, the following solutions can be implemented to improve
the efficiency of the sewing section:

Workstation Layout: The workstation layout can be improved by rearranging the machines, adjusting
their heights, and providing the necessary tools and materials to reduce worker movement and increase
productivity.

Production Planning: An efficient production planning system can be implemented to ensure that the
right amount of fabric, thread, and other materials are available to the workers at the right time. This can
help prevent bottlenecks caused by material shortages or delays.

Worker Training: Proper training of workers on the use of machines, sewing techniques, and the
importance of meeting production targets can increase their efficiency and reduce the chances of
mistakes and rework.

Automation: Introducing automation in the sewing section, such as the use of computerized sewing
machines, can increase the speed and accuracy of the sewing process and help reduce bottlenecks.

By implementing these solutions, manufacturers can improve the efficiency of the sewing section and
reduce the chances of bottlenecks, resulting in improved productivity and faster lead times

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6.5.1 Solving Sewing Floor Bottlenecks:

Bottle neck sewing floor problem solution

A bottleneck in a sewing floor refers to a point in the production process where the flow of work is
restricted, causing delays and inefficiencies. To solve this problem, the following steps can be taken:

Identify the bottleneck: The first step is to identify the bottleneck in the sewing floor. This can be done
by analyzing the production process and identifying the step where work piles up or slows down.

Analyze the cause: Once the bottleneck is identified, the next step is to analyze the cause. The cause
may be due to a lack of resources, inefficient processes, or equipment breakdowns.

Improve the bottleneck area: To improve the bottleneck area, various measures can be taken. For
instance, if the bottleneck is caused by a lack of resources, then additional staff or equipment can be
added. If the bottleneck is caused by inefficient processes, then the process can be optimized to reduce
the cycle time.

Implement quality control measures: Quality control measures can be implemented to ensure that
defects are minimized, reducing rework and minimizing delays caused by fixing errors.

Continuous improvement: The last step is to implement a continuous improvement program that
continually monitors and improves the production process to prevent bottlenecks from reoccurring.

In summary, identifying the bottleneck, analyzing the cause, improving the bottleneck area,
implementing quality control measures, and implementing a continuous improvement program can help
to solve bottleneck problems in a sewing floor.

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6.6 Production Study Sheet:

72
 Chapter: 07

GARMENTS WASHING

73
7.1 Introduction:

The technology which is used to modify the appearance, outlook, comfort ability & fashion of the
garments is called garment washing. By the washing technique, faded/old look or tinted effect is
created.

7.2 Purpose of Garments Washing:

1. Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance. After washing the garments
create a new look.
2. By the washing technique, faded/old look, color or tinted affect is
created in the garments.
3. The important function of washing is to make the garments soft.
4. To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionables
washing and market developments
5. Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garment’s during manufacturing is
also removed due to washing.

7.3 Effects of Garments Washing:

 Change the appearance of the garments

 Change in size
 Change in color
 Change the outlook of the garments
 Change in comfort
 Change in design
 Change in fashion


74
7.4 process flow diagram of wash:

75
7.5 Garments washing process are two types:

7.5.1 DRY PROCESS

 Whiskering
 Hand Scrapping
 P.P Spray
 P.P Sponging
 3D or crinkle.
 2D or crinkle
 Grinding
 Destroy
 Resin spray
 Heat pressing

7.5.2 Wet process:

 Normal Wash
 Enzyme Wash
 Stone Enzyme Wash
 Bleach wash
 Silicon wash
 Tinting & over dyeing
 Acid Wash
 Towel bleach etc

76
7.6 Dry process:

7.6.1 PP Spray:

Potassium Permanganate is sprayed on the garments at specific area. Garments are placed on dummy
first and then pp spraying is done with the help of gun by air pressure. After that garments are dried and
finally neutralize it to get the desired effect.
 Working Procedure:

a. Placement on dummy
Fig-7.1: PP Spray b. Spraying
c. Drying
d. Neutralization

7.6.2 Hand Scrapping:

This process is used to remove/fade the color from specific area of the garments with an abrasive
paper.The faded effect is nicely visible after wash.
 Working Procedure:
a. Specify the area
b. Put the garments into dummy
c. Scrapping with emery paper
d. Quality checking

77
 Fig-7.2: Hand Scraping

7.6.3 Destroy:

This process is done by pen grinding machine which destroy only the warp yarns of the fabrics or
garments. The destroy look on the garments is best viewed after washing.
 Working Procedure:
a. Marking the area

b. Destruct the garments by pen grinder

c. Check the quality.

Fig-7.3: Destroy

78
7.6.4 Tagging:

Tagging or tacking is the process which is done at unwashed condition of garments. After wash
we will get it effect. Maximum time we will do it at edge area by folding the garments. Sometimes this
process damages the garments by creating hole.
 Materials Needed:
a. Tag gun
b. Tag pin
c. Chalk
d. Hand gloves

 Procedure:
a. the garments
b. Fold the garments as per standard
c. Then tag the garments
d. Quality check

Fig-7.4: Tagging

7.6.5 Grinding:

This process is done at edges area of garments. If the garments require two-time wash in that case
grinding is done after first wash to avoid the damages of garments.
 Materials Needed:
a. Grinding machine
b. Hand gloves for safety.

79
  Working Procedure:
a. Run the machine
b. Touching the edge of garments according to standard.
c. Quality Check.

Fig-7.5: Grinding

7.6.6 Whiskering:

Whiskering is the most common dry process for denim garments. This is done by making a pattern and
put the garments then remove color from pattern area. After wash we can see the pattern mark. It is one
kind of design on the garments.
 Whiskering are two types depends on process:
a) Manual Whiskering
b) Laser Whiskering

a) Manual Whiskering

This whiskering is done by manual way with the help of a pattern. On denim garments we have done it
by abrasive paper.
 Material needed for manual whisker
a) Pattern
b) Abrasive paper
c) Marking chalk
 Procedure:
I. Put the whisker pattern into the garments

80
 II. Then rub the pattern area according to standard intensity by abrasive paper
III. Quality check

Fig-7.6: Whiskering

b) Laser Whiskering

This whiskering is done by laser machine. Here, garments specific area are burned by imposing laser
with high intensity. After wash the burned indigo color will be removed and whisker effect will be
visible.
 Procedure:
a. Making the design by photoshop/illustrator
b. Put the garments on the machine surface
c. Set the intensity of burn
d. Burn the garments
e. Quality check
 Required Equipment’s:
a. Laser Machine
b. Leather hand gloves and goggles for safety.

81
 Fig-7.7: Laser Whiskering
7.6.7 2-D Crinkle:

This process is done by crinkle machine or by manual clipping of a specific area and the effect is more
visible at front and back knee area. In this process, two-dimensional effect is produced.
 Material needed for crinkle:
a. Crinkle machine
b. Resin
c. Clip
d. White fabric
 Process flow:
a. Applying Resin
b. Garment Placement on machine
c. Squeeze the garments
d. Keep it up to retention time (Curing)
e. Quality Check.

Fig-7.8: 2-D Crinkle

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7.6.7 3-D Crinkle:

This effect is found by the special treatments of garments. By this system, 3-dimensional effect is
produced. The final is more visible after washing the garments.
 Material needed for 3d crinkle:
a. 3D crinkle machine
b. Resin
c. White fabric

 Procedure:
a. Apply resin
b. Placement into dummy
c. Make 3D crinkle as per standard
d. Pre-cure the garments at 90 degree C
e. Taken out the garments from machine
f. Put into curing oven for full cure
g. Quality check

Fig-7.9: 3-D Crinkle

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7.6.8 PP sponging or Rubbing:

Here, pp is used as the main chemical and the final effect on the garments will be visible after
neutralization process.
 Material needed
a. PP solution
b. Phosphoric acid
c. Sponge
d. Dummy
e. Hanger
f. Hand gloves for safety.

 Working Procedure:
a. Put the garments into the dummy
b. Rubbing PP solution by sponge
c. Dry the garments by hanging
d. Neutralization
e. Quality Check.

Fig-7.10: PP sponging or rubbing

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7.6.9 Resin Spray:

This process in done for coating on the garments. When garments need to be very smooth and hard then
this process is applied. It is done by spraying resin on the full garments then put into oven for
curing the garments. After curing, surface coating become visible on the garments.

 Materials needed
1. Spray gun
2. Resin
3. Catalyst
 Procedure:
I. Put the garments into dummy
II. Spray resin
III. Curing in oven
IV. Check the quality

Fig-7.11: Resin Spray

7.6.10 Heat Pressing:

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Heat pressing is used to get permanents pleats of garments. First, we spray resin on specific area of
garments then pressing by heat press then we will get a permanent pleated.
 Equipment’s:
I. Resin
II. Heat press machine
 Procedure:
I. Keep the garments on the pressing machine
II. Apply resin on the required area
III. Make the crinkle on resin area
IV. Press the garments with steam
V. Check the quality garments.

7.7 Wet process:

7.7.1 Garments/Normal Wash:

Normal wash is the simplest type of wash with lowest washing cost. Normal wash consists of washing
garments in hot water with adequate detergent and softener, rinsing in plain water and drying in tumble
dryer. Some soda ash is added to lend the garment a prominent washed look. Water temperature and the
proportion of components of the wash are adjusted as per requirement of the wash and types of fabrics.
The softener makes the fiber soft and tumble-drying makes the fabric fluffier.

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 Fig-7.12: Garments Washed Sample

7.7.2 Flow Chart of Normal Wash:

Desizing
↓
Rinse Washing
↓
Softening
↓
Hydro extraction
↓
Drying
↓
Delivery

7.7.3 Washing Process of Normal Wash:

Load the garments in the machine. A Batch of 100 kg cotton garments in the normal wash process is
described below-

Recipe:

1st Step: (Desizing)

 Lot size: 100 kg cotton garment.
 Water add @ L: R = 1: 5 of 500 – 600 Liter.
 Run the machine.
 Detergent add @ 1 mg / liter.
 Temperature: Supply steam to raise temperature @ 40°c – 60°c.
 Time: 15 to 30 minutes.
 Drop the liquor.
 Cold wash.
2nd Step: (Rinse wash)
 Water add @ L: R = 1: 5 of 480 liter.

87
  Run the machine.
 Temperature: Raise temperature up to 40°c
 Time: 5 minutes.
 Drop the liquor.
3rd Step: (Softening)
 Water add @ L: R = 1: 5 of 500 Liter.
 Run the machine.
 Silicon/Flax softener add @ 0.1 – 0.5 mg / liter.
 Temperature: Supply steam to rise temperature @ 20°c – 30°c.
 Time: 5 to 10 minutes
 Drop the liquor.
4th Step: (Hydro extraction)

Load the garments in hydro extractor machine.

 This machine removes excess water from the garments.

 Running time of hydro extractor is 2-3 minute.

5th Step: (Drying)

Unload from hydro extractor and load to dryer.
 Dry garments by gas dryer or steam dryer.
 Running the machine.
 Temperature: 70°c – 80°c.
 Time: 20 to 30 minutes.
6th step: Delivery

7.7.4 Enzyme Wash:

In this wash enzyme is used to create desired effect. They work basically on the surface of the fabric.
Enzyme may be neutral or acidic according to the requirement of shade. The main benefits of using
enzyme is that it is biodegradable and hence eco-friendly.

88
Purpose:

I. To remove size and starch materials.

II. To make the garments softer.
III. To improve fastness and anti- pilling properties.

Fig-7.13: Enzyme Washed Sample

Process flow-chart for enzyme wash

Desizing
↓
Enzyme Wash
↓
Softening
↓
Hydroextracting
↓
Drying
↓
Delivery
Recipe:
1st Step: (Desizing)

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Desizing is an important stage of all textile processing in which' size material ' is removed from the
fabric or garment before the pre-treatment process is completed, which is necessary before garment
wash or other textile processes. Here, we add desizing agent and detergent for cleaning and removing
size material.

 Lot weight (100 pes) = 70 kg denim long pant.

 Add water: L: R = 1: 9, 630 liter.

 Machine Running.

 Temperature: raise 60°c.

 Add Desizing agent: 0.6 gm / liter, 378 gm.

 Add Detergent: 0.8 gm / liter, 504 gm.

 Time: Run machine 10-20 minute.

 Drop the liquor.

 Wash 1 time by cold water.

2nd Step (Enzyme wash):

 This is the main step of the enzyme wash. Here, acid enzyme adds for the required washing technique
and shade. In this process, we also add Acetic acid for pH control and anti-back staining for preventing
the staining on weft yarn of the denim garment.

 Add water L : R = 1:8, 560 Liter.

 Temperature: Raise 45°c.

 Add Acetic Acid: 0.6 gm/liter, 336 gm.

 Add Anti back staining: 0.6 gm/liter, 336 gm.

 Add Acid Enzyme: 2.00 gm/liter, 1120 gm.

 Time: 40-60 minute (As required for desired shade).

 Raise temperature up to 90°c and run 1 minute for killing enzyme.

3rd step Softening:

 In the softening process, cat-ionic softener uses for soft hand feel and improve lubricating properties.

90
 Add water L : R = 1 : 7, 490 Liter.
 Add Acetic Acid: 0.6 gm/liter, 294 gm.
 Cat-ionic Softener: 1 gm/liter, 490 gm.
 Temperature: Normal or  Cold.
 Time: 15 to 20 minute.
 Drain the bath.
 Then unload the garments on trolley.

4th step Hydro-extracting: 

After doing all the process, hydro-extracting is done for removing extra water from the garment and
deliver to the drying process. 

5th step Drying: 

Here all garments are dried by using the gas dryer or steam dryer.

6th step Delivery: 

Finally, the garment is delivered to the next process.

7.7.5 Stone Wash:

To give the garments more unique appearance and softer hand, abrasive stones were introduced to the
wash bath. Pumice or volcanic stone are widely used in this purpose. The stones not only abrade the
fabric but also gradually abrade the inside of the rotary drum.

91
 Fig-7.14: Stone Washed Sample

Process flow-chart for stone wash:

Desizing
↓
Stone Wash
↓
Neutralization of chlorine
↓
Neutralization
↓
softening
↓
Hydroextracting
↓
Drying
↓
Delivery
Recipe:

1st Step: (Desizing)

 Lot size: 100 kg garment.
 M:L 1:5
 Run the machine.
 Amylase enzyme add 1-3%
 Add detergent 1%
 Temperature: Supply steam to raise temperature 60°c.
 Drop the liquor.
 Hot wash with water temperature 40-50c
 Time 5 minutes

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2nd Step: (stone wash)
 M:L 1:5
 Add pumic stone ½ of the volume of garments
 Add bleaching powder 2-4%
 Add soda ash 6-8%
 Hot wash
3rd Step: (Neutralization of chlorine)
 Water add @M:L = 1: 5
 Add bisulphate.
 Temperature: room temp.
 Time: 5 to 10 minutes.

4th Step: (Neutralization)

 Water add @M:L = 1: 5
 Add acetic acid.
 Temperature:60 c
 Time: 5 to 10 minutes.
5thStep: (Softening)
 Water add M:L 1:5
 Run the machine.
 Silicon/Flax softener add @ 0.1 – 0.5 mg / liter.
 Temperature: Supply steam to rise temperature @ 20°c – 30°c.
 Time: 5 to 10 minutes
6th Step: (Hydro extraction)
Load the garments in hydro extractor machine.
 This machine removes excess water from the garments.
 Running time of hydro extractor is 2-3 minute.

7th Step: (Drying)

Unload from hydro extractor and load to dryer.
 Dry garments by gas dryer or steam dryer.
 Running the machine.
 Temperature: 70°c – 80°c.

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  Time: 20 to 30 minutes.
6 Step: quality check
th

7th Finishing
8th delivery

7.7.6 Stone Enzyme Wash:

Stone wash means washing garments with special stones so that garments achieve a very strong washed
effect. To get a faded look on the garment surface, white stones are used with enzymes during washing.
During washing, the fabric comes in contact with stones and the color fades by the rubbing action.

Objects of Stone Enzyme Wash:

1. To create irregular fading effect on old looking effect on garments.

2. To remove dust, dart, oil spot, impurities from the garments.
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments i.e. to improve softness.
4. To achieve the buyer washing standard.
5. To remove the size materials from the garments.
6. To improve anti-pilling properties.

Process flow-chart for stone wash:

Desizing
↓
Hot Wash
↓
Stone enzyme wash
↓
Bleaching
↓
Neutral wash
↓
softening
↓
Hydroextracting
↓
Drying
↓
Delivery

94
Recipe:

First Step: Pretreatment/Desizing

1. Batch size………………….. 60 kg Denim Long Pant.

2. Add water @ L: R = 1 : 9 ………………………. 540 liters.
3. Start the machine.
4. Temperature……………….. 60°c
5. Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / liter…………….. 324 gm.
6. Add Detergent / Antistain @ 1 gm / liter ……… 540 gm.
7. Time………………………….. 15 to 25 mts.
8. Drop the liquor.

Second Step: Hot Wash

1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 9………….. 540 liters.

2. Temperature……………………………… 60°c.
3. Time…………………………………………. 5 mts.

Third Step: Enzyme Stone Washing

1. Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 ………….. 480 liters.

2. Add pumic stone @ ½ vol of garments.
3. Add Enzyme @ 1.50 gm/liter ………………… 720 Gms.
4. Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm/liter ……………… 288 Gms.
5. Add Antistain @ 0.8 gm/liter ………………… 384 Gms.
6. Temperature………………………………….. 40°c to 50°c
7. Time (Depend upon the shade) ………. 60 to 70 mts.
8. Then temperature raise to 90°c for 1 minute.
9. Drop the liquor.
10. Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.
11. Then pumic stone out from washing machine

Fourth Step: Bleaching

95
 1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 8………….. 480 liters.
2. Machine running.
3. Add bleaching powder (k.c.i) @ 10 gm/liter ….4800 gms.
4. Add soda ash @ 5 gm/liter………………………….. 2400 gms.
5. Temperature………………………………………………….. 60°c.
6. Time (Depend upon the shade) ………………… 12 to 15 mts.
7. Drop the liquor.
8. Rinse twice, each 3 minutes.

Fifth Step: Neutral Wash

1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 9 ………………………. 540 liters.

2. Add sodium hyposulphite @ 3 gm/liter ……. 1620 Gms.
3. Temperature…………………………………………….. 40°c.
4. Time ……………………………………………………. 10 to 12 mts.
5. Drop the liquor.
6. Rinse one.

Sixth Step: Soft Wash

1. Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 ………….. …………..480 liter.

2. Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm/liter ………………… 288 Gms.
3. Cationic softner @ 1 gm/liter …………………… 480 Gms.
4. Time………………………….. 5 mts.
5. Drop the liquor.
6. Unload the garments to trolley.

Seventh Step: Hydro-extractor Machine

 Hydroextraction the garment to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Eighth Step: Drying Machine

1. Load 40 kg garments

96
 2. Set temperature ……………. 75°c to 85°c.
3. Time ……………………. 35 to 40 mts.
4. Time ………………… 10 minutes in cold dry.

Ninth Step: Delivery

 After quality checking garment will be delivery.

7.7.7 Acid Wash:

It is done on the garments from heavy fabrics like denim and jeans. fading effect are irregularly
produced by fumic stone. Acid wash on denim jeans has become popular owing to its significant
contrasts and attractive appearance in color.
Purposes of Acid Wash on Denim Jeans:
 To get regular fading effect on jeans.
 To increase softness of the denim or jeans.
 “Wash look” appearance is developed.

Fig-7.15: Acid Washed Sample

97
 Process flow-chart for acid wash:

Desizing
↓
Hot Wash
↓
Wash for cleaning
↓
whitening
↓
softening
↓
Hydroextracting
↓
Drying
↓
Delivery
Recipe:
1st Step: (Desizing)
 Lot size: 60 kg batch of denim trouser
 M:L 1:10
 Add desizing agent 1g/L
 Add detergent 1g/L
 Temperature: Supply steam to raise temperature 60°c.
 Time 20 minutes
2nd Step: (Hot wash)
 M:L 1:10
 Temperature 60
 Time 50 minutes
 Drop the liquor
 Pre treat the pumic stone with: water potassium per manganate and phosphoric acid for 15
minutes

98
  Load the pretreated stones
 Start m/c
 Time 7-10 minutes
3rd Step: (wash for cleaning)
 Water add @M:L = 1: 8
 Add detergent
 Temperature:40-50 c.
 Time: 10 minutes.

4th Step: (whitening)

 Water add @M:L = 1: 8
 Add metabisulphite 5g/L
 Temperature:25 c
 Time: 4 minutes.
5th Step: (Softening)
 Water add M:L 1:7
 Run the machine.
 Add acetic acid o.6g/l
 Silicon/Flax softener add 1 g / liter.
 Temperature: Supply steam to rise temperature @ 20°c – 30°c.
 Time: 5 to 10 minutes
6th Step: (Hydro extraction)
Load the garments in hydro extractor machine.
 This machine remove excess water from the garments.
 Running time of hydro extractor is 2-3 minute.

7th Step: (Drying)

Unload from hydro extractor and load to dryer.
 Dry garments by gas dryer or steam dryer.
 Running the machine.
 Temperature: 70°c – 80°c.
 Time: 20 to 30 minute.

99
6th step: quality check
7th Finishing
8th delivery

7.7.8 Bleach Wash:

Bleach wash is the process which is done by using strong oxidative bleaching agent. In bleach wash,
bleach chemical is used in water while washing in a tumble washer. Strict washing time is a requirement
with such a wash, otherwise the garment may be overbleached and the color cannot be reversed. Bleach
wash refers to light blue shades of denim. most widely used chemicals are sodium hypo-chlorite,
calcium hypo-chlorite, hydrogen per oxide and potassium permangate.

Fig-7.16: Bleach Washed Sample

Process flow-chart for bleach wash:

Desizing
↓
Hot Wash
↓
Bleaching
↓

100
 Neutral wash
↓
softening
↓
Hydroextracting
↓
Drying
↓
Delivery

Recipe:
First Step: Pre-treatment/Desizing
 Batch size………………….. 60 kg Denim Long Pant
 Add water @ L: R = 1: 9………….. 540 liters.
 Start the machine.
 Temperature……………….. 60°C
 Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / liter ………… 324 gm.
 Add Detergent / Antistain @ 1 gm / liter….. 540 gm.
 Time………………………….. 15 to 25 mts.
 Drop the liquor.
Second Step: Hot Wash
 Add water @ L: R = 1: 9………….. 540 liters.
 Temperature………………………………… 60°C.
 Time…………………………………………… 5 mts.

Third Step: Bleaching

 Add water @ L: R = 1: 8………….. 480 liters.
 Machine running.
 Add bleaching powder (k.c.i) @ 10 gm/liter.. 4800 Gms.
 Add soda ash @ 5 gm/liter …………………………. 2400 Gms.
 Temperature…………………………………………………… 60°C.

101
  Time (Depend upon the shade)……………….. 12 to 15 mts.
Drop the liquor.
 Rinse twice, each 3 minutes.
Fourth Step: Neutral Wash
 Add water @ L: R = 1: 9…………………….. 540 liters.
 Add sodium hyposulphite @ 3 gm/liter ……. 1620 Gms.
 Temperature ………………………………………………… 40°C.
 Time (Depend upon the shade)………….. 10 to 12 mts.
 Drop the liquor.
 Rinse one.

Fifth Step: Soft Wash

 Add water @ L: R = 1: 8………….. 480 liters.
 Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm/liter ………………… 288 Gms.
 Cationic softener @ 1 gm/liter …………………… 480 Gms.
 Time………………………….. 5 mts.
 Drop the liquor.
 Unload the garments to trolley.
Sixth Step: Hydroextractor Machine
Hydroextraction the garment to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Seventh Step: Drying Machine

 Load 40 kg garments
 Set temperature ……………. 75°C to 85°C.
 Time ……………………. 35 to 40 mts.
 Time ………………… 10 minutes in cold dry.
Eighth Step: Delivery
After quality checking garment will be delivery.

102
7.7.9 Towel Bleach Wash:

This wash is done to create an uneven effect like acid wash which is simply known as cloudy effect.
During processing, small pieces of towel are used with bleaching solution.

Fig-7.17: Towel Bleach Washed Sample

Process
Flowchart
of Towel
Bleach
Wash

Desizing

↓
Rinse-Wash

103
 ↓
Bleach
↓
Rinse-Wash
↓
Neutral
↓
Rinse-Wash
↓
Hydro Extract
↓
Hot Dryer
↓
Send to destroy and PP spray
↓
Rinse-Wash
↓
Towel Bleach
↓
Rinse-Wash
↓
Neutral
↓
Rinse-Wash
↓
Tint
↓
Rinse-Wash
↓
Softener
↓
Hot Dryer

104
 ↓
Cold Dryer

Recipe:
Desizing: For desizing 150-liter water and 50 gm desizing agent are needed. It is done for 20 minutes at
60 ºC.

Rinse-Wash: 400-liter water is needed. It is done for 3 minutes at a cool temperature for 2 times.

Bleach: 150-liter water and 200 gm bleach KCl are used.

Rinse-Wash: 400-liter water is needed. It is done for 3 minutes at a cool temperature for 2 times.

Neutral: 100-liter water and 200 gm hypo are used. It is done for 5 minutes at 450 ºC temperature.

Rinse Wash: 400-liter water is needed. It is done for 3 minutes at a cool temperature for 2 times.

Hydro Extract: Hydro extraction is done for 10 minutes.

Hot dryer: It is done for 40 minutes at 700 ºC temperature.

Destroy and PP Spray: Then send to destroy and PP spray.

Rinse-Wash: 400-liter water is needed. It is done for 3 minutes at a cool temperature for 2 times.

Towel bleach: For towel bleaching, 2 kg towel and 3 kg sodium hypochlorite are used. The machine
should be in dry condition. Check time is 10-20 minutes.

Rinse-Wash: 400-liter water is needed. It is done for 3 minutes at a cool temperature for 2 times.

Neutral: 150-liter water and 200 gm Meta bi Sulfite are used. It is done for 5 minutes at 500 ºC
temperature.

105
Rinse-Wash: 400-liter water is needed. It is done for 3 minutes at a cool temperature for 2 times.

Tint: 100-liter water, 1 gm Brown GTL, 200 ml Yellow RL and 200 gm salt are used. It is done for 5
minutes at 450 ºC temperature.

Rinse-Wash: 400-liter water is needed. It is done for 3 minutes at a cool temperature for 2 times.

Softener: 400-liter water and 200 gm Mesoft-CVS Flakes (Cationic) are used. It is done for 5 minutes at
cool temperature.

Hot Dryer: Check time is 40 minutes. It is done at 700 ºC temperature.

Cold Dryer: It is done for 15 minutes at a cool temperature.

Quality check

Finishing

Delivery

7.7.10 Silicon wash:

Silicon wash is an important and common wash in garment washing. It is done to make fabrics softer.
Silicon wash generally is done on all type of fabrics i.e., Twill, Denim, Canvas, Knit, Corduroy. This
wash gives elastic handle, durable softness of garments. Silicon softener is used in the washing machine.

Necessity of Silicon Wash:

Silicon wash is required for the following reasons:

1. It gives durable softness, elastic handle,

2. It helps to anti-pilling affects, dimensional stability, and tear resistance.
3. It helps to fabrics to be cut and sewn more easily.

106
 4. It also allows and improving wears and easy-care properties.

Fig-7.18: Silicon Washed Sample

Process Flowchart of silicon Wash

Desizing
↓
softening
↓
Hydroextracting
↓
Drying
↓
Delivery

Silicon Wash Process of Denim Apparels:

107
The silicon washing process of batch of 60 kg Denim/ Twill/ Canvas/ Poplin/ Corduroy/ Trouser is
described below:

First Step: Desizing

 Lot weight (Approx 125 pes) = 60 kg.

 Add water @ L: R = 1: 10 i.e. 600 litre
 Machine Running.
 Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre i.e. 360 gm.
 Add Detergent @ 0.5 gm / litre i.e. 300 gm.
 Temperature = 50°C.
 Time =10-20 minutes.
 Drop the liquor.
 Rinse one time 3 minutes.

Second Step: Softening

 Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 i.e. 480 litres.

 Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre i.e 288 gm.
 Cationic Softener @ 1 gm / litre i.e. 480 gm.
 Silicon (ME) @ 0.5 gm / litre i.e. 240 gm.
 Temperature = 40°C.
 Time = 15 to 20 min.
 Drain the bath.
 Then unload the garments on trolley.

Third Step: Hydroextractor Machine

After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydro extractor machine to
remove excess water from the washed garments.

Fourth Step: Drying Machine

 Load 60 kg garments to gas/steam dryer.

 Temperature set = 75°C to 85°C.

108
  Run about 35 to 45 min.
 After run 10 to 15 minutes for cold dryer.

Fifth Step: Delivery

After drying the garments go to quality section for quality checking and then delivery.

7.8 Different types of machines used in Washing and Dyeing plant

Dry process:

7.8.1 Hand Scraping Machine:

Actually, it is not machine, it is a dummy. This machine contains one balloon, stand and some
pneumatic signals. Garments are put on dummy, then take air pressure and process is done.

Fig-7.19: Hand scraping

7.8.2 3-D Crinkle:

This crinkle slightly differs from normal crinkle, one is two dimension and other is three dimension.

109
This machine has some pattern which put inside the garments and heating at oven. Before placing
pattern, resin is used at specific place.

Fig-7.20: 3-D Crinkle

7.8.3 Plastic Staple Machine:

This machine is used for tacking the garments. This machine holds the needle and plastic pin. When
workers press the paddle of the machine then moves by the help of motor and needle go inside the
fabric.

Fig-7.21: Plastic Staple machine

7.8.4 Laser Machine:

Laser machine is used for fading by burning the garments. This process is done by light emitting system.
First time we have to make a design by using Photoshop or illustrator. Then it will impose on garments
after selecting the intensity of burn.

110
 Fig-7.22: Laser Machine

7.8.5 Pen Grinding Machine:

This machine is used for destroy the garments. One stone is attached in front of the machine. When this
stone moves at high speed then the specific area of garments become damage which remain in close
contact with it.

Fig-7.23: Pen Grinding Machine

7.8.6 Grinding Machine:

This machine is used for grinding of garments edges. Garment edges are placed at close contact of the
machine and become slightly damages when wheel moves at high speed by an electric motors.

111
 Fig-7.24: Grinding Machine

7.8.7 Open Door/Conveyer Belt Oven:

In this oven, the main door will never close as then conveyor belt moves within the door. Productivity
is more than close door oven. Garments stay inside the machine according to retention time during
moving.

7.8.8 Whisker Pattern:

This pattern is made by rubber sheets and art paper or only rubber sheets. After making this pattern, it
puts inside the garments then scrap with sand paper.

112
 Fig-7.25: Whisker Pattern

7.8.9 PP Spray Cabin:

This cabin contains spray gun and rubber dummy. Garments are placed on dummy then spraying is done
by gun.

7.9 Wet Process:

Washing Machine: All types of washing are done by this machine in washing plant. Washing machine is
also used for garments dyeing. Washing machines are mainly two types based on loading.

A. Front Loading
B. Top loading/Belly machine

7.9.1 Front loading:

In this machine, materials are loaded from front side. Actually this is computerized and modern washing
machine.

113
 Fig-7.26: Front Loading machine

7.9.2 Top loading:

In this machine, materials are loaded from top side. Actually, this is manually operated machine. This is
also called belly machine.

Fig-7.27: Top Loading Machine

7.9.3 Hydro Extractor:

By hydro extractor machine, water is removed from garments. Garments are put into hydro
following by any wet treatment. Hydro extractor machine works based on the centrifugal forces.
About 70-80% water is removed by this process.

114
 Fig-7.28: Hydro Extractor

7.9.4 Ozone Machine:

This machine is used to change the color of garments (fading) and also for bleaching. It is like a normal

washing machine but only difference is that it can destroy the color using Ozone gas in a closed
chamber. We can perform sustainable wash by this machine. For fading, no water treatment is required
here.

7.9.5 Dryer:

The machine which is used for drying the garments after wash is called dryer. Dryer are basically two
types based on heating process; namely- Gas dryer and Steam dryer. In the gas dryer garments are dried
within short time compare to steam dryer.

7.9.6 Gas Dryer:

In this dryer natural gas is directly burned and heat is produced. This heat is applied on the garments
when the dryer drum moves. Heat is applied here from the upper part of the dryer.

Fig-7.29 Gas Dryer

7.9.7 Steam Dryer:

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In this dryer steam is converted to heat by using a heat exchanger. Then heat is applied on the garments
when the inside drum rotates.

Fig-7.30 Steam Dryer

7.9.8 Bamboo dryer:
In the bamboo dryer garments are dried within short time compare to others dryer.

Fig-7.31 Bamboo dryer

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7.10 Different kind of wash defects:
Un wash visual defect
 Stain
 Uncut thread
 Skip stitch
 Shade variation
 reject

Dry process defect

 whisker uneven
 whisker crease
 hand sand uneven
 hand sand crease
 pp spray up down
 pp spray uneven
 pp spot
 Destroy thread cut

Wet process defect

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 Bleach spot
 Weaving /fabric reject
 Pp spot
 Lycra breakage
 Crease mark

Chapter: 08

FINISHING SECTION

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8.1 Introduction:
Finishing Department room is the last step of apparel industry. After making complete stitched garments
by sewing section then passed in finishing department for ironing, folding, ploy packing, cartooning to
get this way attractive movement. For this way finishing work complete & ready for due particulars
work.

8.2 Importance of Finishing:

 Unwanted creases and wrinkles are removed
 Outlook of garment is improved
 Hand feel is improved
 It ensures better quality

8.3 Machines and Equipment Used in Finishing Section:

 Thread sucker machine

 Thread Cutter

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  Hand tag Gun

 Iron

 Bartack sewing machine

 Single needle lock machine

 Button attaching machine

 Metal detector

 Textile cleaning Gun etc.

8.4 Flow chart of finishing Department:

Input

Inside thread treaming

Top side thread treaming

Pocket sucking (by air pressure)

Top and inside iron

Inside check area and top side check area

Clean

Button / Rivet Area

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 Label joint if buyer wants after wash

Getup iron (final iron)

Measurement check

Getup check (full body check)

Price tag / waist tag area (sq check)

Final check

Metal pass

Divided by size

Matching the shade

Folding

SQ check

Poly pack

Make carton

Box wise quantity and size wise packing

Carton close

Moved to warehouse

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8.5 “5S” Methodology in finishing section:

"5S" is a methodology used in manufacturing and production settings to improve efficiency,

organization, and cleanliness. It stands for Sort, Set in Order, Shine, Standardize, and Sustain. In the
context of garment finishing, here's how each of the 5S principles can be applied:

Sort: This step involves separating necessary and unnecessary items. In garment finishing, this means
sorting through equipment, tools, and supplies to identify what is essential and what is not. Unnecessary
items should be removed to reduce clutter and improve workflow.

Set in Order: After sorting, the next step is to organize the necessary items. In garment finishing, this
could involve creating a designated space for each type of tool, arranging them in a logical order, and
labeling storage containers to make it easy to find what is needed.

Shine: The third step involves cleaning and maintaining the work area to ensure it is free of dirt and
debris. In garment finishing, this could involve sweeping the floors, wiping down work surfaces, and
regularly cleaning equipment to prevent buildup of fabric fibers and other materials.

Standardize: This step involves creating standard procedures and guidelines for completing tasks. In
garment finishing, this could involve creating standardized work instructions for each task, ensuring that
all workers follow the same procedures, and using visual aids such as diagrams and pictures to help
workers understand the procedures.

Sustain: The final step involves maintaining the improvements made in the previous steps over the
long term. In garment finishing, this could involve regularly auditing the work area to ensure that it
remains organized and clean, providing ongoing training to workers to ensure they follow the
standardized procedures, and continuously looking for ways to improve the processes to make them
more efficient.

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Different types of packing are done in finishing section. Following is the most used packing types –

 Stand up pack Shirt (90°angle)

 Flat pack Sport wear/Shirt/Trouser

 Hanger pack Blazer, Coats, Pants

 Semi stand up pack Shirt

 Half fold pack Pant

8.6 Cartooning:

After packing, cartooning is done according to apparel size and color.

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 Fig-8.1: Cartoon ready for shipment

8.7 Types of Carton Packing:

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Most used packing types are given below:
 Solid color Solid size pack
 Solid color Assorted size pack
 Assorted color Solid size pack
 Assort color Assort size pack

Carton packing vary according to Buyer’s requirement. Carton pack may be-

 12pcs/Carton
 24pcs/Carton
 36pcs/pack

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 Chapter: 09

MERCHANDISING

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9.1 Introduction:

Merchandising is an important function in the textile industry, and it involves coordinating the
production and sales of textile products. The primary objective of textile merchandising is to
maximize profitability by ensuring that the right products are produced at the right time and at
the right cost. Some of the key responsibilities of a textile merchandiser include:
1. Product Development: Merchandisers work closely with designers and product
development teams to create new textile products that meet customer requirements. They
provide input on product design, costing, and pricing, and ensure that products are
developed according to customer specifications.

2. Costing and Pricing: Merchandisers are responsible for ensuring that textile products are
produced at the right cost and are priced competitively in the market. They work closely
with production teams to determine the cost of raw materials, labor, and other expenses,
and then determine the appropriate pricing for the product.

3. Production Planning: Merchandisers are responsible for coordinating the production of

textile products, ensuring that production schedules are met, and that the quality of the
products meets the required standards. They work closely with production teams to
monitor progress, resolve any issues that arise, and ensure that deadlines are met.

4. Sales and Marketing: Merchandisers work closely with sales and marketing teams to
promote textile products to customers. They provide input on product positioning,
advertising, and promotions, and work to build strong relationships with customers to
promote repeat business.

5. Quality Control: Merchandisers are responsible for ensuring that the quality of textile
products meets the required standards. They work closely with quality control teams to
monitor the production process, identify any defects or issues, and take corrective action
to ensure that products meet customer expectations.

Overall, the role of a textile merchandiser is critical to the success of textile products in the
market. They play a key role in coordinating the production and sales of textile products,
ensuring that they are produced and sold profitably and meet customer expectations.

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9.2 Flowchart of Merchandising:

Order received from the Buyer with details

↓
Sample Development
↓
Price negotiation with the Buyer
↓
Confirmation of order and receive the order sheet
↓
Make buyer requirement sample (Fit, Proto etc.) for approval
↓
Make requisition for bulk fabric
↓
Make requisition for accessories
↓
Swatch board making and approval
↓
Raw material collection and also receive it in factory
↓
Check and also listing
↓
Make P.P (pre-production Sample) with all actual
↓
Pre-production meeting
↓
Start bulk production
↓
Collect daily production and quality report
↓
Make online inspection by strong quality team

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 ↓
Sample sent to third party testing center
↓
Make final inspection for bulk production
↓
Shipment
↓
Send all documents to the Buyer
↓
Receive payment from Bank

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9.3 All the processes of garments merchandising

SL Subject Job
No.
01 Order received from the The very first work of a merchandiser is to collect order from the
Buyer with details buyer with the detail’s information (Art work, technical sheet).

02 Sample Development Sample should be developed by following buyers’ instruction

03 Price negotiation with the In the meantime, Price should be negotiated with the Buyer.
Buyer
04 Confirmation of order and Here price have to fix and collect order sheet from the Buyer.
receive the order sheet
05 Make Buyer requirement Should be prepared proto or fit sample for Buyer’s approval.
sample (Fit, Proto etc.) for
approval
06 Make requisition for bulk In the meantime, make fabric requisition for bulk production.
fabric
07 Make requisition for Make a requisition for the required accessories of that order.
accessories
08 Swatch board making and Should prepare swatch board of required accessories for the
approval Buyer’s approval.
09 Raw material collection All the requisite raw materials have to collect and receive in
and also receive it in factory at right time.
factory
10 Check and also listing Check all the in-hosed material with requisite sheet.

11 Make P.P (pre-production By following Buyer’s instruction make a P.P sample with all
Sample) with all actual actual.
12 Pre-production meeting Before going into the production, have to arrange pre-production
meeting for smooth production.
13 Start bulk production Finally, you have to go into bulk production.
14 Collect daily production Regular production and quality report should be collected here in
and quality report regular basis.
15 Make online inspection by During bulk production, have to make online inspection by
strong quality team strong quality team.
16 Sample sent to third party For making a strong approval about the quality of the product,
testing center have to send sample in third party testing center.

17 Make final inspection for After completing bulk production, make a final inspection for the
bulk production order.

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 18 Shipment After making final inspection of the product, all the garments
should send to the Buyer.
19 Send all documents to the All the documents about the order should send to the buyer after
Buyer sending the full order quantity for receiving payment.
20 Receive payment from Finally receive the payment from the Bank.
Bank

Table-9.1: processes of garments merchandising

9.4 Ha-meem Group merchandising is consisting of following tasks:

 Developing connection with buyer/importer

 Negotiation with supplier for least prices
 Preparation of costing for different garments.
 Negotiation with ultimate buyer/importer for costing.
 development of SWATCH card and approved by buyer.
 Development of samples (PROTO) by using available fabrics and trims to approved
standard, quality.

9.5 Time and Action:

A “Time and Action” calendar is one of the most important tools for managing a project. It
defines the ideal date/time period within which the major activities of an order should occur
against a scheduled delivery window.
We all know how useful To-Do Lists are when we are working on a particular project. In regard
to producing clothing, footwear, or fashion accessories, we will typically use what is called a
Time & Action Calendar to monitor the projects progress. The calendar is also sometimes

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referenced as a TNA or T&A calendar. This is essentially a detailed to-do list that covers all the
various steps of the production process. The goal is to create a fairly accurate method to evaluate
and maintain the status of a project and the length of time it would realistically take to complete
the project.
When creating an apparel manufacturing time & action calendar, it should include the date the
order is received all the way to the time that the product will be delivered at its final destination.
This would include manufacturing schedules, transit dates for freight, approval times, etc.
From the time the order is received to order completion a large number of tasks of various
duration and requirement of resources are involved. The process is complicated because the
tasks do not always follow one directly after the other in an orderly manner. Some process can’t
begin until another process completes. Other processes are completely fine running at the same
time as others. There are many moving parts during the order production process that must be
considered. A very detailed plan with well-defined responsibilities is must for each order to be
successful and meet its delivery schedule. The business of clothes manufacturing is not often a
business that is a “One Man Show”. It is team work both internally within one’s own company
and team work between various suppliers. It is critical that all members of the supply chain are
informed of the program’s status. Moreover, all tasks have to be accomplished with in a given
time frame to ship out the garments on time.
Production managers prepare a plan in a spreadsheet (typically an excel file) listing down key
processes in one column and planned date of action for each process is noted in another column.
The file should include ever step in the process and the production manager should receive
advice from various suppliers to properly complete the document. For example, the label
manufacturer will need to advice the number of days it will take them to produce the labels and
the number of days transit to reach the cut & sew facility. The hanger, zipper, and button
manufacturer would need to do the same. The production manager collects all the data and
inputs the dates onto the calendar. In addition to the components, they also determine the
amount of time needed for sewing, swatch approvals, factory inspections, transit times, etc.
Once TNA calendar is created, it should be shared with other people and companies that are
involved with the project. It is important that each supplier in the chain meets his or her
deadlines or it will have a negative effect on other aspects of the project. For example, the fabric
mill cannot begin production of fabric until approval swatches are sent to the buyers, reviewed,

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and approved. What happens if the mill schedules 3 days for approvals, but the buyer declines
the swatch? The mill will need to make new swatches and re-send for approval. This will take
far more than three days. If the production of fabric starts later than originally planned, that
means that the cutting & sewing of fabric will begin later than originally anticipated. This will
push the entire project back and potentially result in a late delivery to the buyer. It is important
to plan in extra days for the unexpected.
In addition to creating a T&A Calendar, it is important to “maintain” the file. If one date pushes
back, it should be added to the calendar so that the entire list gets updated to new dates.
The TNA schedule processes are executed on daily basis so that all companies evolved know
whether an order is on track or becoming delayed

9.5.1 Example of small portion of T&A:

Processing:
PO# Ha-Meem Group
Processing Date
Bulk fabric sent 21- November

Bulk fabric approval date 26- November

Care label layout for approval 30- November

Care label approval after test 5-December

Fabric for testing 16- December

Fabric approval for care 20- December

instruction
Samples for testing 25- December

Table-9.2: T & A Calendar

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In the apparel manufacturing industry, the TNA is a perfect technique for tracking and following
up of important milestones during the pre-production processes and production process to ensure
timely delivery within an assigned delivery date requirement.
The chart consists of time frames listed for every action planned (major ones) and these actions
need to be achieved on time according to the chart. The purpose of TNA is to cross check at
frequent intervals, whether the planning is being executed properly and on time. TNA is
especially useful when a buyer requests to know the current status of execution of an order.
Buyer will not accept any delay in the garments delivery and if the garments cannot be shipped
out on time, then there will be good possibility that buyer may cancel the order or may ask for air
shipment or Buyer may ask for discount. To avoid all such adverse situation merchandiser, need
to do proper planning to execute any order.
TNA is most important activity for timely shipment. If any merchandiser is able to follow the
TNA properly then it will be not a big challenge to ship the garments on schedules for any
production unit is summery of sampling, sourcing and production activities and their sub
activities. Merchandiser generally makes the TNA on the basis of lead time mentioned by buyer,
shipment date negotiation, order quantity, production capacity. The milestones and key/critical
activities dates are mentioned by buyer while other in-house activities need to manage by
merchandiser by keeping many things in mind. With the help of TNA merchandisers can ensures
satisfaction of each and every step with constant follow ups and in shortest cycle time possible.
Rapidly changing trends of the fashion industry is making merchandising activities more
complicated and so TNA. Merchandiser has to prepare good and flexible TNA by keeping all
facts and facets in mind. If used effectively, a good TNA can help factory to meet production and
shipment deadlines, increase inventory turns, improve customer service, and enhance profits.

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9.6 Job responsibilities of Merchandising Team:

DEVELOPMENT AND COSTING

 Buyer's development packets RCVD are being reviewed.
 Put the new ideas to use with the product development team.
 As much as feasible, clarify all relevant information with the customer.
 Follow up on the deadline for the given sample.
 Calculate the startup costs (all costing must be checked by
merchandising manager)
1  Negotiating a price with the buyer.
 Follow up with the buyer regarding the sample feedback and pricing.

ORDER CONFIRMATION

 After reviewing the factory's capacity status, quoting the delivery dates
to the client, and checking all the details in the order sheet once received
from the buyer.
 Any difference in the order sheet should be communicated to the buyer.
 Passing the accurate order sheet to all departments involved, such as
2 planning, manufacturing, and commercial

SAMPLING

 Coordinating all fabric + trims that are required for sampling purposes.
Updating production development team reg. diverse sample
requirements of buyer at various stages (sales man, fit, size set, pp
sample, etc.)
 For sampling, coordinate print, embroidery, and wash.
 Before releasing samples to customers, all technical aspects of the
samples are checked.
 Before releasing samples to customers, we inspect them for all visual
3 elements.
 Checking each sample's quantity needed.
 Checking the reach sample's required paper work.
 Follow up on the buyer's remarks on each sample.

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 BULK FARBIC

 Provide fabric booking to fabric department with correct quantity and

other relevant information. Work out the consumption for each new
design from CAD.
 Follow up on the lab dips/strike off submission and follow up on the
approved remarks.
4  Observe the fabric delivery in relation to the critical path.
 Follow up on any fabric approval issues that arise.
 Fabric delivery schedule prioritization based on garment delivery dates.

BULK TRIM
 Preparing a pricing sheet/check list for individual trims required for a
style, as well as chasing down the buyer's trim specifics.
 Obtaining consent from the buyer for the required trims.
 Provide individual trim bookings to the permitted source.
 Obtaining the P/I from the most reliable source ensures on-time
delivery.
 Monitoring the status of B/B L/C or TT payments.
 All trimmings should be sourced from the most commercially possible
5 supplier.
 Maintain contact with suppliers to ensure timely delivery.
 Liaise with the retailer to verify that all trimmings are RCVD in the
appropriate amount and quality.

ESTABLISHMENT
 Obtaining the suitable artwork from the buyer for all print/embroidery
projects. Developing the design in the most efficient manner feasible.
 Provide capacity reservations for the printing/embroidery plant ahead of
time.
 submitting a print/embroidery strike off for approval by the buyer
 Providing the print/embroidery facility with an approved copy of the
6 strike off.
 Negotiating with subcontractors on price.
 To ensure a smooth production flow, keep track of the panels delivered
and received dates.
 For general difficulties, communicate with the provider.

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 FILING & CORRESPONDENSE

 Keeping track of all running orders in a style file

 Keeping track of the development file and communicating with the
7 buyer and suppliers in general.
 Correspondence with the buyer and suppliers that is critical
 Buyers receive weekly information on audit schedules, production
status, and other topics.

MEETING

 Meetings with international buyers and suppliers, as well as domestic

8 buyers and suppliers.
 Production, planning, quality, commercial, and HRD all met for an
internal meeting

Table-9.3: Job responsibilities of Merchandising Team

9.7 Tech Pack:

Tech pack is an instruction guide for procedure of the garment manufacturing. This is a graphical
and written document which indicates the design specification, fit specification, procedure for
manufacturing the garment, measurement and sizing of the garment. Buyer communicates the
tech-pack with production merchandiser in order to get the desired outcome with the desired
quality and aesthetics. The provision is made in tech-pack to control the quality of the product
throughout the production procedure.

9.8 Sales Contract:

A written sales contract will help the merchandiser and the buyer to have a better understand
the details of the agreement, while minimizing the chances of a dispute later on. Although
all contracts may, in fact should vary in order to accurately reflect the intent of the parties in
particular circumstances. It is intended to be a starting point and a guide to help a
merchandiser to create a contract that includes all of the terms relevant to the company’s
business interactions.

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9.9 Costing Sheet:

Apparel costing in the garment manufacturing process is one of the most important and
critical procedures. Garment costing method is called the heart of ready-made garment
business, because the profit depends on it. There are many things that go into pricing a
single piece of garment. A costing sheet makes the job of garment costing easier and
faster. A well-designed costing sheet will help to trace all details of costing. So,
become a less chance to miss any particular costing items. Normally merchandiser and
the top management of a company are actively involved in deciding the cost of a
garment.

Fig-9.1: Costing Sheet

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9.10 Purchase Order (PO):

A purchase order (PO) is a written sales contract between the buyer and seller
detailing the exact merchandise or services to be rend from a single vendor. It
will specify payment terms, delivery dates, item identification, quantities,
shipping terms and all other obligations and conditions.

9.11 Key Terms of PO:

Following explanation may help you to understand the key terms of PO sheet
PO Number: PO number is unique purchase order number which is fixed by buyer.
Style: As per garments category or Color buyer separated by different style name.
Season: Buyer divides a year in 3 or 4 or more seasons as per overseas weather and
their consumer demand.

Unit Cost: Unit cost mean cost of single garments. It can be FOB, Cnf or C.I.F.
Goods Description: Description about goods which can be long or shortin Top or Bottom
wear.

9.12 Proforma Invoice (PI):

Proforma Invoice is a document that's sent to a buyer quoting/accepting price and

mentioning terms and conditions of payment, shipment etc. so that buyer can open LC
according to the Proforma Invoice. Proforma Invoice is not a real invoice – it's merely a
document that declares the seller’s commitment to supply the products or services fixed to
the buyer at certain prices. Following is a specimen Proforma Invoice for clear
understanding.

9.13 Packing List:

Packing List is important for packing section to pack the goods as per ratio/assortment
and the inspectors inspect the goods as per packing list. It is also used by the

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commercial department to make final packing list for forwarding agent and customs
dept. (both local & foreign) to determine the total shipment weight and volume and
whether the correct cargo is being shipped. So, a merchandiser should prepare a clear
packing list so that all the purpose could be served.

9.14 Delivery Challan:

A Delivery Challan is created in situations where goods are being transported from one
place to another which may or may not result in sales. They are sent along with the shipment
of goods. It contains the details of items and quantity of goods being delivered.

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 Chapter: 10

HR Managements

141
10.1 Human resource planning:

Ha-meem Group has a Human Resource Management and Compliance Department. That
company is one of the biggest employers in Bangladesh. The total number of employees is
6000. For the employees there is systematic in-house training in home and outside. To
motivate the employees, along with salary and benefits the company provides various
facilities like free transportation, 24-hour medical center, on site sports. Production and
accommodation facilities include full time supply of safe drinking water, adequate lighting
and ventilation facilities etc.

10.2 HR Practices of Ha-meem Group:

 Recruitment
 Training
 Performance Management
 Labor relation
 Employee relation
 Job analysis
 Job design
 Selection
 Development
 Incentives
 Benefits

10.3 Recruitment and Selection process in Ha-meem Group:

Recruitment is the process through which the organization seeks applicants for potential
employment. Selection refers to the process by which it attempts to identify applicants with
the necessary knowledge, skills, abilities and other characteristics that will help the company
achieve its goals, companies engaging in different strategies need different types and
numbers of employees. The strategy a company is pursuing will have a direct impact on the
types of employees that it seeks to recruit and selection.

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10.3.1 Source of recruitment:

There are two types of source Ha-meem Group uses for recruitment:
 Internal source.
 External source.
We try to discuss all relative sources which are used for recruitment in Ha-meem Group.

10.4 Internal source:

Ha-meem Group thinks that current employees are a major source of recruits for all but
entry-level positions. Whether for promotions or for 'Lateral' job transfers, internal
candidates already know the informal organization and have detailed information about its
formal policies and procedures. Promotions and transfer are typically decided by operating
managers with little involvement by HR department.

10.4.1 Job-posting programs:

HR departments become involved when internal job openings are publicized to employees
through job positioning programs, which informs employees about opening and required
qualifications and invite qualify employees to apply. The notices usually are posted on
company bulletin boards or are placed in the company newspaper. Qualification and other
facts typically are drawn from the job analysis information.

The purpose of job posting is to encourage employees to seek promotion and transfers the
help the HR department fill internal opening and meet employee's personal objectives. Not
all jobs’ openings are posted. Besides entry level positions, senior management and top stuff
positions may be filled by merit or with external recruiting. Job posting is most common for
lower-level clerical, technical and supervisory positions.

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10.4.2 Departing Employees:

An often-overlooked source of recruiters consists of departing employees. Many employees

leave because they can no longer work the traditional 40 hours work week. School, child
care needs and other commitments are the common reason. Some might gladly stay if they
could rearrange their hours of work or their responsibilities Instead, they quit when a
transfer to a part-time job may retain their valuable skill and training. Even if part-time work
is not a solution, a temporary leave of absence may satisfy the employee and some future
recruiting need of the employer.

10.5 External source:

When job opening cannot be filled internally, the HR department of Ha-meem Group must
look outside the organization for applicants. We discuss all the external source of
recruitment at below:

10.5.1 Walk-ins and Write-ins:

Walk-ins are some seekers who arrived at the HR department of Ha-meem Group in search
of a job; Write-ins are those who send a written enquire both groups normally are ask to
complete and application blank to determine their interest and abilities. Usable application is
kept in an active file until a suitable opening occurs or until an application is too old to be
considered valid, usually six months.

10.5.2 Employee referrals:

Employees may refer job seekers to the HR department. Employee referrals have several
advantages. Employees with hard-to-find job skill may no others who do the same work.
Employee's referrals are excellent and legal recruitment technique, but they tend to maintain
the status quo of the work force in term of raise, religions, sex and other characteristics,
possibly leading to charges of discrimination.

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10.5.3 Advertising:

Want ads describe the job and the benefits, identify the employer, and tell those who are
interested how to apply. They are most familiar form of employment advertising for highly
specialist requites, ads may be placed in professional journal or out of town newspaper in
areas with high concentration of the desired skills

10.6 Training and Development program of Ha-meem Group:

Training is a process of learning a sequence of programmed behavior. it is application of

knowledge. It gives people an awareness of the rules procedures to guide their behavior. It
attempts to improve their performance on the current job or prepare them for an intended
job.

Development is a related process. It covers not only those activities, which improve job
performance, but also those, which bring growth of the personality; help individuals to the
progress towards maturity and actualization of their potential capacities so that they become
not only good employees but also better men and women. In organizational terms, it is
intended to equip person to earn promotion and hold greater responsibility.

10.7 Performance Management:

Performance appraisal is the process of assessing employee's past performance, primarily for
reward, promotion and staff development purposes.
'Performance appraisal (is) a process that identifies, evaluates and develops employee
performance to meet employee and organizational goals.
Performance Appraisal does not necessarily use to blame or to provide a disciplinary action.
Previous management theories used to view performance appraisal as a stick that
management has introduced to beat people. Performance appraisals are now more clarified
and they concentrate on developing organizational strengths and employee performance.

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10.8 Purpose of Performance Appraisal:

 To review past performance

 To assess training needs
 To help develop individuals
 To audit the skills within an organization
 To set targets for future performance
 To identify potential for promotion
 To provide legal & formal justification for employment decision
 To diagnose the hidden problems of an organization

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 Chapter: 11

SWOT OF HA-MEEM GROUP

147
Introduction:

SWOT (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats) analysis is a framework used to

evaluate a company's competitive position and to develop strategic planning. SWOT
analysis assesses internal and external factors, as well as current and future potential.

11.1 Strengths:

Diversified Business Portfolio: HA-MEEM group has a diversified business portfolio which
includes textiles, renewable energy, power, and real estate. This helps the group to spread
the risks associated with any one particular business.

Modern Production Facilities: The group has modern production facilities with state-of-the-
art machinery and equipment, which enable them to produce high-quality products and
maintain a competitive edge in the market.

Strong Financial Position: HA-MEEM group has a strong financial position with a high
level of liquidity and low debt-to-equity ratio. This provides the group with the necessary
financial resources to invest in new projects and expand its existing businesses.

Strong Brand Image: HA-MEEM group has a strong brand image, which has been built over
several years of delivering high-quality products and services to its customers.

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11.2 Weaknesses:

Dependence on the Textile Industry: HA-MEEM group is heavily dependent on the textile
industry, which makes up a significant portion of its revenue. Any downturn in the textile
industry could negatively impact the group's financial performance.

Limited Geographic Presence: HA-MEEM group has a limited geographic presence, with
most of its operations concentrated in Bangladesh. This limits the group's ability to tap into
new markets and diversify its revenue streams.

11.3 Opportunities:

Growth in Renewable Energy: With the increasing focus on renewable energy sources,
HA-MEEM group can capitalize on the growth opportunities in this sector by investing in
renewable energy projects.

Expansion into New Markets: HA-MEEM group can expand its operations into new
markets, both domestically and internationally, to tap into new growth opportunities and
diversify its revenue streams.

E-commerce: The growth of e-commerce presents an opportunity for HA-MEEM group

to increase its sales by expanding its online presence and leveraging digital technologies.

11.4 Threats:

Competition: HA-MEEM group faces intense competition in all of its business segments,
which could impact its market share and profitability.

Political and Economic Instability: Bangladesh is prone to political and economic

instability, which could impact HA-MEEM group's operations and profitability.

Changing Customer Preferences: Changes in customer preferences and trends could

negatively impact the demand for HA-MEEM group's products and services.

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 Chapter: 12

CSR PRACTICE IN HA-MEEM GROUP

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12.1 Introduction:
HA-MEEM Group has a strong commitment to corporate social responsibility (CSR) and
has implemented various initiatives to ensure sustainability, social responsibility, and
ethical practices. Some of the CSR practices in HA-MEEM group include:

12.2 Safe and Ethical Workplace:

The group has implemented various measures to ensure the safety and well-
being of its employees, such as providing training on safety and health,
ensuring fair labor practices, and implementing ethical workplace practices.

12.3 Environmental Sustainability:

HA-MEEM group is committed to reducing its environmental footprint and has
implemented various initiatives to ensure sustainable environmental practices. This
includes the use of renewable energy sources, reducing water consumption, and
minimizing waste.

12.4 Community Development:

The group has implemented various initiatives to support the development of local
communities. This includes supporting education, healthcare, and providing employment
opportunities.

12.5 Philanthropic Initiatives:

HA-MEEM group has also been involved in various philanthropic initiatives to support
various social causes, such as disaster relief, poverty alleviation, and supporting
disadvantaged communities.

12.6 Ethical Business Practices:

The group has implemented ethical business practices and has a zero-tolerance policy
towards corruption, bribery, and other unethical practices.

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Overall, HA-MEEM group's CSR practices demonstrate its commitment to sustainability,
social responsibility, and ethical practices, which are important for building a strong
brand reputation and creating a positive impact on society.

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 Chapter: 13

CONCLUSION

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13.1 Conclusion:

The textile industry is a complex and diverse industry that involves many different
processes, technologies, and materials. Industrial training gain valuable knowledge and
experience in the industry by being exposed to these various elements and by working in
different departments of a textile company. Industrial training play an important role in the
industry, as they are able to contribute fresh perspectives and ideas, and they can also learn
from the experienced professionals around them. The textile industry faces many challenges,
including issues related to sustainability, supply chain management, and quality control.
Through our work and research, Industrial training can help identify and address some of
these challenges. The textile industry is constantly evolving, and it is important for textile
companies to stay up-to-date with the latest trends, technologies, and market demands.
Industrial training can help companies stay ahead of the curve by providing insights and
recommendations based on their research and observations. Internships are valuable learning
experiences that can help prepare students for future careers in the textile industry. Through
this internship, we can develop important skills, such as communication, problem-solving,
and teamwork, which will serve them well in any industry or career path they pursue.

In conclusion we can say that this internship report is really essential for every student to get
idea about textile industry. By completing this report, we have got overall idea of RMG
sector and these may be helpful to know about the technical and management knowledge of
garments industry also these sector related organizations. This is a huge sector and yet to
discover the whole.
We want to thank my department Head for giving us this great opportunity of learning. This
Internship program will help us in the further challenges of life. We will try our best to make
this project enriched with lots of apparel related documents. Ha-Meem Group is really a
good experience for us because every person of there so much helpful and give us the proper
methods of practical learning. So, at last, there is a hope of eradicating all the obstacles and
become the leader of garment industries in near future.
The RMG sector earns the majority of Bangladesh's foreign currency. As a result, it is self-
evident that the development of this industry would bring our country good fortune, and as
Textile Engineering graduates, we must devote our earnest efforts to the future advancement
of RMG and associated industries. It is one of the main RMG producers, and it provided us
with the opportunity to participate in two months of industrial training, which was highly

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valuable to us. Because no knowledge, particularly in the field of Textile Engineering, can
be fully realized without hands-on experience. It provides us with a fantastic opportunity to
blend our theoretical and practical expertise. Modern manufacturing equipment, worker
welfare, and good management are the keys to a company's success, all of which are
carefully maintained at the HA-MEEM Group (CCL). We genuinely believe that this
experience will provide us with the confidence we need to put our skills to work in this field.

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 Chapter: 14

REFERENCE

To prepare this report we have collected data from two sources:

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 I. Primary Data: We are working practically two months in “Ha-Meem group” to
obtain all the information that requires preparing this report.
II. Secondary Source: Different published materials, internet, library works.

1. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bangladeshi_RMG_Sector
2. http://www.bgmea.com bd /c hart/total_product_export#.VX8S4fmqqko
3. http://textilecalculationblogspot.com/2014/11/fabric-consumption-formula-for-pant-html

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