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AXLES, BRAKES AND

FRAMES

WEBINAR

AXLE IDENTIFICATION
Spring Axle Torsion Axle

2k -16k 2k -12k
Weight Rating Weight Rating

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SPRING AXLE Axle Tube U-bolts

5
Leaf Spring 1
Spindle
Brake Nuts
Grease Zerk
Brake Assembly
5
Grease Seal
2 4
Inner Bearing Cone 3
Inner Bearing Cup
Hub 6
Outer Bearing Cup
Outer Bearing Cone 8 Spring
7
D-Flat Washer Seat

Cotter Pin Tie Plate

Dust Cap U-Bolt Nuts

Castle Nut
Rubber Plug

TORSION AXLE

Rubber Cord

Brake Assembly
Bracket
Grease Seal
Inner Bearing
Cone
Torsion Arm
Outer Bearing Cone
D-Flat Washer
Cotter Pin Spindle
Dust Cap

Rubber Plug
Castle Nut

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SUSPENSION
Spring Axle Attaching Parts Kit Torsion Axle

Double Eye Leaf Spring Rubber Cords

Nut
Shoulder Bolt

Shackle Link

Slipper Spring

Shackle
Equalizer

Inspect all components of the suspension system annually or every 36,000 miles, whichever comes
first. Visually inspect the system for signs of wear, damage or loose fasteners. Replace or tighten loose
fasteners, as necessary. Torque fasteners in accordance with specifications in tables Spring Axle
Torque Specifications and Torsion Axle Torque Specifications.

AXLE IDENTIFICATION AND MEASUREMENTS

Spring Center

Hub Face
Part Number Variant Code

Bracket Dimension

Hub Face
Serial Number Manufacturing Date

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AXLE MOUNTING ORIENTATION

• Camber must be oriented in the UP position.

• Electric Brakes will have the magnet lead
wires exiting the rear of the axle.
• The wiring for the brakes protruding from the
axle tube must be oriented to the rear of the
coach.
• An oval adjuster slot must be located at the
bottom of the axle.
• Hydraulic Brakes will have Hydraulic Input
Hole pointing to the back of the axle.
• The spring clip must be oriented to the front
of the coach.
• Silver Axle I.D. Tag must be located on the
backside of the axle tube.

CAMBER ORIENTATION
Camber Up
Underslung

Spring attached
UNDER the axle tube

Spring seats are

on opposite sides
as camber

Spring seats are

on same side as
Overslung camber Camber Up

Spring attached
OVER the axle tube

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WHEEL AND HUB REMOVAL

1. Lift trailer and support it per manufacturer’s

requirements.
Always lift the trailer by its frame and never by its axle or
Lug Nuts
suspension. Axle and suspension components are not
designed, or rated, for the dead weight, point-of-contact
loads that the trailer’s frame is. Do not go under the
trailer unless it is supported by appropriately rated jack
stands. Improperly supported trailers can collapse, Cotter Pin
causing possible serious personal injury or death.
2. Remove the lug nuts and wheel from hub.
3. Remove the dust cap by prying the edge out of the
hub with a flathead screwdriver. Pry evenly around the
edge until it comes free. If equipped with oil
lubrication, unscrew oil cap using 2 ½” socket for 8K,
2 ¼” socket for 10K or a 2 5/8” socket for 12 and
16K. Let oil drain into pan.
4. Pull the cotter pin from the castle nut and discard the
cotter pin as it is a one-time use part.
Dust Cap

WHEEL AND HUB REMOVAL

5. Remove the castle nut from the spindle.

6. Remove the spindle washer from the
spindle. Brake Assembly
7. Remove outer bearing cone from hub.
8. Remove the hub from the spindle. Spindle
NOTE: Brakes may need to be adjusted
or backed off to remove drum from
spindle. A gear puller may be necessary
to remove hub from spindle.

Hub

Outer Bearing Cup

Outer Bearing Cone
Spindle Washer
Castle Nut

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AXLE BEAM REPLACEMENT

Brake Assembly Backer Plate
Axle Beam Removal
1. Remove backer plate with brake assembly from
axle beam by removing the nuts and washers. U-bolt
2. Support axle beam from underneath.
3. Remove nuts from U-bolts and remove U-bolts
Washer Nut
from axle beam. If a shock kit is installed on the
axle, it will need to be removed from tie plate
before U-bolts and nuts are removed.
4. Remove old axle beam from under the coach.

Axle Beam Installation

1. Install new axle beam under the coach. Be sure
axle info tag and brake wires are facing the rear Tie Plate
of the coach.
2. Install new U-bolts (mandatory) and tie plates (if Nut
necessary) and torque nuts. If a shock kit is
installed on the axle, the shock will have to be
reinstalled through the tie plate after the U-
bolts and nuts are installed. Ensure leaf springs 2K Axle 25 ft-lb
are centered on spring perches on the new axle
beam. Spring clips on leaf spring should be on 3.5K Axle with ½” U-bolt 50 ft-lb
the sections of the leaf spring facing the front of 5.2K Axle 65 ft-lb
the coach unless 2 spring clips are installed.
3. Install backing plate with brake assembly on 6-8K Axle 90 ft-lb
spindle. Torque the nuts to 35-55 ft-lb.

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SEAL AND INNER BEARING CONE REMOVAL Inner Bearing Cone Seal
Inner Bearing Cup
Remove Seal and Inner Bearing Cone
1. Place hub on flat surface stud side down, pull seal from
the hub with a seal puller. Clamping down hub might be
necessary. Never push the seal out with the bearing. The Studs
bearing may get damaged.
2. Remove bearing cone and clean out any old grease from
inside and outside of the hub assembly.

Outer Bearing Cup

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INNER AND OUTER BEARING CUP REMOVAL Inner Bearing Cone Seal
Inner Bearing Cup
Remove Inner Bearing Cup
1. Flip hub over with stud side up.
2. Use brass drift punch to lightly
tap with hammer around the
small end of the cup to push it
out. Tap around the cup in a
circular manner, traveling
around the edge of the cup
until it comes free.

Remove Outer Bearing Cup

1. Flip the hub assembly over stud
side down and support with Outer Bearing Cup
blocks of wood for stability.
2. Perform same procedure used
on inner bearing cup.
3. Clean the hub bore with lint free
rag. Use brake cleaner, work
from the inside to the outside of
the assembly to clean away
grease, brake dust, or rust.

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SEAL, BEARING CONE, AND BEARING CUP INSPECTION

Wash all grease and oil from seal, bearing cups
and bearing cones using a suitable solvent and
clean off with a lint-free cloth.

Seal
Inspect seal and replace if damaged, nicked,
cracked or torn.

Bearing Cone
Inspect each bearing cone and replace if
damaged, pitted, spalled, corrosion or wear.

Bearing Cup
Inspect bearing cup and replace if damaged,
pitted, spalled, corrosion or wear.

NOTE: Bearing must always be replaced in sets

of one cone and one cup.

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HUB AND SPINDLE INSPECTION

Hub
Wash all grease, oil, brake dust or rust
from hub drum and bore with a lint-free
cloth and break cleaner.

Inspect hub drum and bore and replace if

out-of-round, cracked, scored, pitted,
grooved or gouged.

Spindle
Clean off any old grease from spindle
with a lint-free cloth.

Inspect spindle and replace complete

axle beam if bent or damaged.

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ELECTRIC BRAKE INSPECTION

Clean backer plate, magnet, actuating lever and Brake Backer
shoes with a lint-free cloth and brake cleaner.
Actuating Spring Plate Secondary
Do a general inspection for any broken or bent
components. Lever Shoe

Shoes
Inspect and replace shoes if scored, glazed,
pitted, gouged or worn to 1/16” or less. They
should also be replaced if they have been
contaminated with grease or oil. Heat cracks
are normal and do not require replacement.
When replacing shoes, both shoes on the same
brake and the brakes on the same axle should
all be replaced at the same time.

Magnet
Check surface of magnet with a straight edge to
check for uneven wear. The surface of the
magnet should be completely flat. Magnet
should be replaced if magnet coil is exposed. If
magnet is replaced the drum armature surface
should be refaced. Primary
Shoe Magnet
Brake Adjustment
Screw

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INNER AND OUTER BEARING CUP INSTALLATION Inner Bearing Cup

Lubrication (OIL)
Periodically check oil level after trailer has
been parked for a few minutes. Refill with
SAE 80-90W hypoid gear oil to necessary
level indicated on cap by removing rubber
plug.

Lubrication (GREASE)
Replace every 36,000 miles or 12 months,
whichever comes first with a machine or by
hand:

Install New Inner Bearing Cup

1. Use seal punch or brass drift punch
to tap the outer bearing cup with
thicker side facing down until seated Outer Bearing Cup
against the retaining shoulder in the
hub.

Install New Outer Bearing Cup

1. Flip hub over with stud side up.
2. Perform same procedure used on
inner bearing cup.

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BEARING CONE AND BEARING CUP LUBRICATION

1. Place grease into the palm of your hand.
2. Press widest end of bearing cone into
the outer edge of the grease pile, forcing
grease into the inner area of the bearing
cone between two adjacent rollers. Spindle
Repeat while turning bearing cone from
roller to roller until all rollers are coated. Inner Bearing
3. Apply a light coat of grease onto the Cone
bearing cup surface. Inner
Bearing Cup

Outer Bearing Cup

Outer Bearing Cone

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INNER BEARING CONE AND SEAL INSTALLATION

1. Assemble bearing cone into bearing cup.

2. Apply a PERMATEX sealant to the outside
of the new seal. Do not use PERMATEX
on rubber encased seals.
3. Make sure seal is set square to the hub
seal bore before pressing the seal all the
way in or the seal may become damaged.
4. Place a clean block of wood evenly
across the seal.
5. Hold the block of wood firmly in-place as
you begin to tap the seal squarely into
the seal bore with the hammer. Continue
to tap inward until the seal’s outer face is
flush to the hub’s seal bore face. When
installing a new oil seal, be sure side
marked “AIR SIDE” is away from bearing
cone.

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HUB AND WHEEL INSTALLATION Hub

Cotter Pin
Spindle
1. Place hub assembly onto the axle
spindle followed by the spindle washer
and castle nut. Castle nut should be
torqued to 50 ft-lb. Rotate the hub during
the tightening process.
2. Loose castle nut to back off the torque. Spindle Washer
3. Tighten castle nut finger tight until snug.
4. Insert new cotter pin. If cotter pin does Castle Nut
not line up with hole, back castle nut off
Dust Cap
slightly until pin can be inserted.
5. Bend cotter pin over to lock castle nut in
place. Nut should be free to move with
only the cotter pin keeping it in place.
6. Reinstall dust cap into the hub assembly.
7. Reinstall the wheel onto the hub
assembly.
8. Reinstall the lug nuts onto the hub studs.
See torque requirements section in the
manual.

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THE PROPER WAY TO BURNISH BRAKES

Break-in Period for Electric Drum Brakes
• Using electric brake adjustments (not truck brake), brake the unit 20-50 times slowing unit from 40-
25mph every mile or so.
• Manually adjust brakes after 200 miles then every 3,000 after.
• Seats pad better on the drum.
Check for Synchronization and Load
• Check synchronization between the tow vehicle and the trailer being towed.
• Adjust system resistor and synchronize for insufficient wheel load.

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ELECTRIC BRAKES INSPECTION Recommended Trailer Wire Gauge

Wire Gauge and Type # of Length of Run
Check Circuits and Electrical Connections Axles
• Check for any open or short circuits 16 Ga Stranded Copper 1 N/A
• Check for high voltage (2V+) and low voltage (2V-) 14 Ga Stranded Copper 2 Under 30ft. (9.1m) from hitch to center of
• Check for faulty ground connection axles
• Check for correct wire gauge 12 Ga Stranded Copper 2 or 3 Over 30ft. (9.1) from hitch to center of
axles
• Look for any loose or corroded connections
• Make sure that magnet lead wires are correct Amps/Magnet Two Brakes Four Brakes Six Brakes
• Check for faulty breakaway switch
3.0 6.0 12.0 18.0

Measuring Voltage Measuring Amperage

Use pin probes on the lead wires going to magnets at brake Use pin probes, alligator clips or amp clamps to check one lead
mechanism. Should start at 0 volts and gradually rise as brake wire at a time to each corresponding magnet. Each test site should
is applied to about 12 volts. Gradual is better than quick change have 3 amps when brakes are activated energizing magnets.
in voltage.

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Center Wear Edge Wear

Good Wear Caused by Caused by

over-inflation under-inflation

Adjust pressure to Adjust pressure to

load per tire catalog. load per tire catalog.

Inside Wear Outside Toe Wear

Loss of
camber or
overloading Incorrect Toe-in

Make sure load

does not exceed Call Lippert Service
axle rating. Call and Warranty to
Lippert Service and advise.
Warranty to advise.

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Cupping Wear Flat Spot Wear

Good Wear
Out-of-balance Wheel lockup
and tire skidding
Check bearing
Avoid sudden
adjustment
stops if possible
and balance
and adjust
tires.
brakes.

Flat Spot Wear

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MEASURING WHEELS FOR TOE-IN ALIGNMENT

10 2 10 2
RV Line Tolerances
Toe The back (wire side)
equal to or no more than
3/16” larger compared
to the front.
C Toe Cross The two cross
Check measurements MUST be
C within 3/16” to each
other.

A B A B

Front of Unit Passenger Side

Front of Unit Driver Side

A B A B

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HANGER MEASUREMENT FOR PROPER TOWING

Axle Hangers T-2

Z-1

W-1 W-2

Z-2

T-1
Axle Hangers

Roadside View

Y-1
Curbside View

Y-2

AXLE HANGER MEASUREMENT PROCEDURE - SINGLE AXLE

T-1 T-2 W-1 W-2 Z-1 Z-2 Y-1 Y-2

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MAINTENANCE

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Question and Answer

If you have questions, please feel free to ask
us now. Otherwise, we are available and
happy to discuss anything presented with you.

TECHNICAL SUPPORT
www.Lippert.com 432–LIPPERT customerservice@lci1.com

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