Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Toys
Amigurumi Pattern
Sitting Bunny
Pattern
2 in 1
You can sell the finished toy crocheted by you, if you could mention me as the designer that would be
greatly appreciated. Please do not resell the pattern.
Finished Size: Bunny with straight ears: 11 inches / 27 cm including the ears if using similar yarns and a hook.
Yarns
Paintbox Simply Aran Paper White Paintbox Simply Aran Washed Teal
Supplies
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Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2017
About the crochet terms
I use US crochet terms in my patterns. However, as you may know US crochet terms are different than UK crochet
terms. Here is a chart for you to see them both.
Abbreviations Used
1: Magic ring is the best way to start crocheting your amigurumi which leaves no hole in the middle & gives you a very neat finish
that you will love and appreciate.
2: Always leave the yarn tails a bit longer to sew the parts together.
3: Any size hook with a correspondingly sized yarn can be used to crochet amigurumi. Though the most common combination is
aran / worsted yarn and 3.50mm hook.
You may now say that the label on your yarn suggests that you should you use 5.00mm hook with your aran yarn. In order to
crochet a nice and neat amigurumi you need to use at least one size smaller hook than your yarn suggests. With a smaller hook
you can crochet your amigurumi tightly, so the stuffing won’t show through. If you are crocheting way too tight I suggest that
you may use either 4.00mm or 4.25mm hook with your aran yarn instead of 5.00mm hook.
4: Although some amigurumi patterns are worked with single crochet & in joined rounds which you do not need to use a stitch
marker, most amigurumi patterns are worked with single crochet & in continuous / spiral rounds which you need to use a stitch
marker to mark the beginning of each round.
5: A small pair sharp pointed scissors is the best scissors to have when crocheting amigurumi to cut / snip the yarns and trim
the ends.
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Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2017
6: You’ll need a blunt-tipped yarn needle to weave in yarn ends & stitch the parts / pieces together.
7: Pins always come in handy keeping the parts / pieces in place while you are sewing them together.
8: Acrylic is the most popular yarn to make amigurumi. Having said that if you choose the cheapest acrylic yarns they can be
very scratchy & rough to work with and the toy will not be very pleasant to touch. I prefer soft premium acrylic yarns which
are pleasure to crochet with & the finished toy turns out nice, smooth & soft. The premium acrylic yarns are inexpensive, plus
machine washable & they don’t stretch. On top of everything acrylic yarns are available in a wide variety of colours.
However, you may choose to work with wool, but I must say that wool yarns can be scratchy to work with, they may be
stretched and also expensive. Another thing with wool is that some people are allergic to it.
As for cotton, I must admit that you do get very clearly defined stitches with cotton, but be careful when you’re choosing your
cotton yarn. Lightly twisted cotton yarns with 100% combed cotton fibres are perfect to crochet pleasant to touch amigurumi
toys with, whereas the tightly twisted cotton yarns are very good to crochet durable baskets with.
9: I prefer to use super soft polyester fibrefill for my amigurumi projects, as it’s lightweight, bouncy, washable, long lasting
and it does give your amigurumi a nice & smooth finish with no lumps at all.
10: If I am not crocheting or embroidering the eyes I do prefer to use safety eyes as they lock into place with a backing
washer.
11: Invisible decrease is the best way to crochet your decreases as it leaves a less visible bump in the crocheted fabric. You
will be doing a lot of increasing & decreasing when crocheting amigurumi. I’ve done my best to explain them both below as
simple as possible.
Invisible decrease: Insert the hook into the **front loop** of the first stitch (2 loops on hook). **Do NOT yarn over**
Insert the hook into the **front loop** of the next stitch. In order to do this, you’ll need to swing the hook down first so you
can insert the hook under the front loop. (3 loops on hook)
Yarn over & draw through the first two loops on the hook. (2 loops on hook)
Yarn over & draw through both loops on the hook. You’ve done your invisible decrease.
12: To conclude good to know section I would like to tell you how to read my patterns with a simple example.
Single crochet in each of next 3 stitches, *single crochet in each of next 2 stitches, increase* repeat 6 times, single crochet
in each of next 3 stitches.
Only repeat what is written between the two stars. In this case it’s *2 sc, inc *
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Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2017
Pattern
I suggest that you try them both 3.00mm, 3.50mm to find out which size you are most comfortable crocheting your amigurumi with. If you think
3.50mm is too small for you then try 4.00mm or 4.25 mm to see which one is best for you.
Add a bit more stuffing & make sure that the head is
filled firmly.
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Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2017
As you can see in the photos above, I’ve inserted the eyes, filled the head firmly, and embroidered the mouth & the eye lashes.
I’ve used DMC cotton perle black colour embroidery thread, shade number: 310 and thickness number is 3. I’ve used this thread only because this is
what I have in my craft box. You can use any kind of embroidery thread or even floss would do the same job.
While you are embroidering the facial parts, insert the needle inside from the open bottom, leave a couple of inches / 5 cm long cotton thread tail
dangling, once you’ve finished embroidering the facial parts bring the needle out from the open bottom, and make two knots to secure the cotton
thread.
You’ll need to use 5 holes to embroider the nose, and come down into the 5 th hole to embroider the mouth, and 4 holes to embroider each eye lashes.
2: *inc* rep 6 times [12 sts] 16: *5 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [36 sts]
3: *sc, inc* rep 6 times [18 sts] 17-18: Sc around (2 rounds in total) [36 sts]
4: *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times [24 sts] 19: *4 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [30 sts]
5: *3 sc, inc* rep 6 times [30 sts] Start filling at this point.
6: *4 sc, inc* rep 6 times [36 sts] 20-21: Sc around (2 rounds in total) [30 sts]
7: *5 sc, inc* rep 6 times [42 sts] 22: *3 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [24 sts] sl st, ch 1
8: *6 sc, inc* rep 6 times [48 sts] Add a bit more fibrefill into the body.
9-12: Sc around (4 rounds in total) [48 sts] Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing head and
the body together.
13: *6 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [42 sts]
4: *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times [24 sts] Sew the ears in between 4th & 10th rounds, counting from
the top where the magic ring is.
5-7: Sc around (3 rounds in total) [24 sts]
Photo above is to show you how to flatten the arm and crochet
over the stitches.
Sew the arms in between the last two rounds of the body. You will
need 5 holes to sew the arms onto the body.
Make a slip knot & crochet 74 chain stitches. Turn the back side of the chain
where you will see horizontal stitches look like the runner stitches as you
see in the photo on the right. Needle is to show you both horizontal stitch
and the 4th st, and then half double crochet into the 4th horizontal stitch to
create a button hole.
Carry on crocheting hdc until the end of the chain. Once you’ve made the
last hdc, keep the loop on the hook cut a couple of inches / 5 cm long yarn
tail for sewing the button on the scarf and then yarn over draw the yarn tail
through the loop to secure the end of the scarf.
I used a 1.50 cm plastic button, but you can use any button you have in your
button jar.
Wrap the scarf twice around the bunny’s neck and button it up.
1: Leave a couple of inches / 5 cm long yarn tail and then crochet 4 chain stitches.
2 sc into second st from hook - 1 sc into the next st - 6 sc into last st. Carry on crocheting on the other side of the ch
1 sc into next st - 1 sc into next st - slip st into the 1st sc we made on the other side of the ch [11 sts]
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Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2017
1st photo left above is to show you the shape of the sole after crocheting around the ch 4, joining with sl st. As you can see there is a little hole
where we crocheted 6 sc into the one st, and at this point the 2nd photo right above comes in; now thread the little yarn tail (left before crocheting 4
chain stitches) onto a yarn needle and just go under the stitches on the back side of the sole to close the hole as you see in the photo.
2: Ch 1 - 2 sc into the same st - sc into the next 3 sts - 3 sc into the next st - sc into the next 2 sts - 3 sc into the next st - sc into the next 3 sts -
sc into the slip st of the 1st round & sl st into the 1st sc of the 2nd round [17 sts]
3: Ch 1 – 2 sc into the same st – sc into the next 5 sts – 3 sc into the next st – sc into the next 4 sts – 3 sc into the next st – sc into the next 5 sts -
sc into the slip st of the 2nd round - slip st into the 1st sc of the 3rd round [23 sts]
4: Ch 1 – 2 sc into the same st – sc into the next 7 sts – 3 sc into the next st – sc into the next 6 sts – 3 sc into the next st – sc into the next 7 st -
sc into the slip st of the 3rd round – slip st into the 1st sc of the 4th round [29 sts]
5: Ch 1 – sc into the same st – sc into the next st – 2 sc into next st – sc into the next 7 sts – 3 sc into the next st – sc into the next 8 sts – 3 sc into
the next st – sc into the next 8 sts – 2 sc into the next st - sc into the slip st of the 4th round
** Do NOT join the rounds and Change the colour to White as you see in the photo below** [36 sts]
6: BLO (back loops only) with white colour. 10 sc – 16 hdc – 10 sc [36 sts]
The 3 half double crochet stitches that were worked into one stitch need to be decreased all together. Now, this might sound a bit confusing, but
there is nothing for you to worry about. I have made a step by step tutorial for you, so just take a look at the photos below before you carry on.
This is a really nice and neat technique to use to decrease your half double crochet stitches. When you see the result you will see what I mean
Follow the photos from left to right. Let’s get started, shall we
2: Insert hook under front loop of the next stitch (just you would while you were crocheting a sc invisible decrease)
3: Yarn over
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Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2017
5: Insert hook into the next front loop, yarn over and pull up a loop through the front loop (4 loops on the hook)
6: Insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch
7: Yarn over (including this front loop we inserted our hook, we have 5 loops on the hook)
8: Draw that yarn you have on the hook through the all 5 loops you have on the hook. Done Nice and neat
Extra information: Normally, after the 7th photo, we would pull up a loop through the front loop (we would have 5 proper loops on the hook, instead of
having the front loops as our last loop) and then we would yarn over again and draw it through the all 5 loops, but this way your 3 half double crochet
invisible decrease at once stitch would be bulky.
Pattern Carries On
7: 9 sc – 2 hdc – 3 hdc inv dec at once– 8 hdc – 3 hdc inv dec at once – 2 hdc – 9 sc [32 sts]
5: Yarn over and draw through the all 4 loops (includes the front loop of the stitch that we inserted our hook into)
Same as 3 hdc invisible decrease at once, but this one is one stitch less.
Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2017 Page Eleven
Pattern Carries On
8: 9 sc – hdc – 2 hdc inv dec – hdc – 2 hdc inv dec – 2 hdc – 2 hdc inv dec – hdc – 2 hdc inv dec – hdc – 9 sc [28 sts]
After this round all the invisible decreases are going to be only “standard single crochet invisible decrease”
10: 6 sc – inv dec – sc – inv dec – inv dec – sc – inv dec – 6 sc [18 sts]
Add some more stuffing. Leave a long enough yarn tail for sewing. Bring the tail out from the next hole.
Sew the legs in between the 7th and 13th rounds; counting from the bottom beginning where the magic ring is.
To crochet bunny with floppy ears, you just need to follow the bunny with straight ears pattern. However, the floppy bunny’s ears and the scarf are
different than the bunny with straight ears.
As for the colours, white stays white, you just need to replace the washed teal colour with blush pink.
2: *inc* rep 6 times [12 sts] 22-23: Sc around (2 rounds in total) [18 sts]
3: *sc, inc* rep 6 times [18 sts] 24: *4 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [15 sts]
4: *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times [24 sts] 25-27: Sc around (3 rounds in total) [15 sts]
5: *3 sc, inc* rep 6 times [30 sts] 28: We now need to flatten the ear and crochet over the sc sts
we have on the both sides, just like we did with the arms.
6-11: Sc around (6 rounds in total) [30 sts]
However, this time when you are crocheting over the opening,
12: *8 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [27 sts]
skip the last sc st of the 27th round and crochet over the 7 sc
13-14: Sc around (2 rounds in total) [27 sts] sts you have on both sides of the flattened ear.
15: *7 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [24 sts] So, once you have crocheted over the flattened open end, you
should have 7 sc sts. [7sts] Keep the loop on the hook and cut
16-17: Sc around (2 rounds in total) [24 sts] a long enough yarn tail for sewing and yarn over draw the yarn
tail through the loop to secure the end.
18: *6 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [21 sts]
Ears are ready to be sewn on the bunny’s head
19-20: Sc around (2 rounds in total) [21 sts]
Crocheting on the back side of the chain as we did with the bunny with straight ears’ scarf
Sc into the 8th horizontal stitch from the hook to create a button hole
Once you’ve made the last sc, keep the loop on the hook cut a couple of inches / 5 cm long yarn tail (for sewing the button on the scarf) and then
yarn over draw the yarn tail through the loop to secure the end of the scarf.
For this bunny I am using a 3 mm big plastic button, you can use any kind of button you whish
Once button is sewn onto the scarf, wrap the scarf three times around the bunny’s neck and button it up.
Congratulations you’ve now finished both of your bunnies Hope you’ve enjoyed crocheting them.